Chapter I: Part 1

THE BEST VEGETARIAN DISHES
I KNOW

“The business of the kitchen’s great,
And it is fit that men should eat,
Nor was it e’er denied.”

THE BEST
VEGETARIAN DISHES
I KNOW

BY
JEANNE JARDINE

LONDON

J. M. DENT & SONS LTD.

29 AND 30 BEDFORD STREET, W.C.

1910

FOREWORD

“How fair
This earth were if all living things be linked
Bloodless and pure.”

It will be seen that fish has been excluded from this little volume, because it does not come within the range of legitimate vegetarian fare; although many who “bid adieu to carnal dishes, to solid meats, and highly-spiced ragouts,” give it a prominent place in the daily menu.

I trust those who put the recipes given herein to the test will find they merit the somewhat ambitious title under which they appear. My aim is to suggest dainty and nourishing dishes to vegetarians, which are not extravagant, and which can be easily carried out by the average “good plain” cook. One thing I would ask in this connection is, that the recipe be read through and the intention grasped before operations are begun. It is an interesting fact that the same recipe may give an absolutely different result when followed by two persons, thus proving that in one case or the other--and possibly in both--their methods are at variance with those laid down by the author. It must be borne in mind that fats of various kinds, such as butter--made both from cream and nuts--cream, oil, and cheese, should necessarily take a prominent place in vegetarian fare, and also such complete forms of food as milk and eggs, in order to give it its proper dietetic value.

It is frequently asserted that a vegetarian diet is more costly than a meat diet, but those who adopt it will find that the extra cost of butter, milk, and eggs in a month will compare favourably with the butcher’s bill for the same period.

J. J.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Artichoke Curry 11

Artichoke and Egg Fricassee 11

Artichoke Fritters 12

Artichokes au Gratin 13

Artichokes à la Mornay 14

Artichoke and Potato Pie 14

Artichokes Roasted 15

Artichoke Rissoles 16

Artichoke Soufflé 17

Baked Beans with Spinach and Eggs 19

Baked Eggs with Spaghetti 20

Batter Balls 21

Batter Cassolettes 22

Beans with Egg Fritters 23

Broad Beans and Baked Eggs 24

Broad Beans in Italian Style 25

Butter Beans Moulded 25

Butter Beans in Pastry Case 26

Cabbage Stuffed with Nuts 27

Carrots in Rice Border 29

Cassolettes with Peas 30

Cassolettes of Rice 32

Cauliflower in Batter 33

Cauliflower with Curried Egg Sauce 34

Cauliflower with Egg-Balls 34

Cauliflower Fritters 35

Cauliflower and Tomato Meringue 36

Celeriac Aigrettes 37

Celeriac Cutlets 38

Celeriac and Eggs au Gratin 39

Celery Pie 40

Celery and Macaroni Timbale 40

Cheese Omelet with French Beans 42

Chestnut Curry 43

Chicory Mould with Macaroni 44

Cold Curry Shape 45

Cornets with Celery Cream 46

Cucumber filled with Nut Forcemeat 47

Cucumber Stuffed 48

Cucumber with Poulette Sauce 49

Devilled Nut Fillets 50

Dresden Patties 51

Eggs in Jelly with Cheese Cream 51

Eggs Stuffed with Asparagus 52

Egg Balls in Potato Case 53

Egg Croquettes 55

Eggs in Cucumber Cases 56

Egg Cutlets with Asparagus 57

Egg and Forcemeat Croustades 58

Egg Fritters 59

Egg Patties 60

Eggs Poached and Fried with Tomatoes 61

Eggs Poached and Fried with Vegetable Marrow 62

Eggs Poached with Tomato Sauce 63

Eggs in Potatoes 64

Eggs and Rice 65

Egg Rissoles 66

French Bean Salad 67

Fricassee of Eggs 68

Green Pea Cutlets 69

Macaroni Pie 70

Macaroni Rissoles 72

Mock Oyster Cakes 73

Mushroom Cutlets with Purée of Lettuce 74

Nut Cutlets 75

Nut Fillets Stewed 76

Nut Rissolettes 77

Nut Soufflé 78

Quenelles à la Reine 79

Rice Fritters with Broad Beans 80

Roasted Potatoes with Mushrooms 81

Roman Pie 82

Salsify Omelet 83

Salsify Patties 84

Savoury Macaroni 85

Savoury Mince with Spinach 85

Savoury Pasties 86

Savoury Roll 87

Scalloped Curry 88

Scotch Eggs 89

Spaghetti à l’Italienne 89

Stuffed Potatoes 90

Stuffed Vegetable Marrow 91

Tomato Omelet with Vegetable Salad 92

Tomato Patties 93

Tomato Shape with Peas 94

Tomatoes Stuffed with Macaroni 95

Tomato Soufflé 96

Vegetable Cream with Aigrettes 97

Vegetable Pie 99

Vegetable Steaks 100

Yorkshire Mince 101

Yorkshire Pudding with Mushrooms and Tomatoes 102

SAUCES

Brown Sauce 103

Curry Sauce 104

Dutch Sauce 104

Tomato and Celery Sauce 105

Tomato Sauce 106

White Sauce 106

White Stock 107

THE BEST VEGETARIAN DISHES I KNOW

ARTICHOKE (JAPANESE) CURRY

One pound Stachys (or Japanese artichokes), white vegetable stock, curry sauce.

_Method._--Parboil the little tubers, peel them and finish cooking them until they are tender in the stock, then follow the directions given for Chestnut Curry on page 43.

ARTICHOKE AND EGG FRICASSEE

One pound artichokes, 4 hard-boiled eggs, ³⁄₄ pint white sauce, 2 oz. macaroni, grated cheese, 1 oz. butter, tomato sauce, 1 raw yolk, lemon-juice.

_Method._--Cook the artichokes until they are just tender and cut them into rather thick slices. Then cut as many hard-boiled eggs as are required for the dish (allow one for each person and one over) also into slices, and heat the artichokes and eggs in the white sauce, which should be nicely flavoured and mixed with the raw yolk, beaten up with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or tarragon vinegar. Place the saucepan containing the fricassee on the stove in a larger pan of boiling water to prevent the sauce from curdling, and stir occasionally. Drain the macaroni, as soon as it has been boiled until it is quite tender, and put it back into the saucepan in which it was cooked, with an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce and season with salt and pepper. When it is thoroughly coated with the butter and sauce, sprinkle in a large tablespoonful of grated cheese (preferably Parmesan), then make a neat border with it on a hot dish and fill the middle with the fricassee. If a more economical sauce is preferred the yolk of egg and lemon-juice can be omitted.

ARTICHOKE FRITTERS

Jerusalem artichokes, batter, fat, grated cheese.

_Method._--Peel the artichokes and put them into a saucepan containing plenty of boiling, salted water, and let them boil for twenty minutes. Then drain them on a soft cloth and cut them, on a floured board, into moderately thick slices; have ready prepared a light, thick batter, and also a pan of deep, boiling fat; dip the pieces of artichoke into the batter and drop them into the fat and let them cook until they are a golden brown. Serve the fritters piled upon a hot dish with a little grated Parmesan (or Cheddar) cheese scattered over them.

ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN

Jerusalem artichokes, white sauce, grated cheese, butter, dried breadcrumbs.

_Method._--Peel some artichokes and with a vegetable cutter shape them into little balls (the size of a large marble) and cook them in salted water until they begin to get tender, then drain them at once and put them into a saucepan containing some warm butter (dairy or nut butter may be used), which has been seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a few drops of lemon-juice; cover the pan and let them simmer for about ten minutes. Prepare a thick white sauce (see recipe on page 106) and add a tablespoonful of mild, grated cheese to each half pint; pour a small quantity of the sauce over a buttered gratin dish and arrange the artichokes in it, then cover them with the remainder of the sauce; pour the remains of the butter in which the artichokes were cooked over the top and scatter over it a moderately thick layer of finely sifted, dried bread-crumbs mixed with half the quantity of grated cheese, and bake in a quick oven until evenly browned. If the flavour of onion is not objected to, a small, well-boiled Spanish onion passed through a sieve and added to the sauce is an improvement to the dish.

ARTICHOKES (JAPANESE) À LA MORNAY

One pound of artichokes, ³⁄₄ pint white sauce, 1 tablespoonful cream, 1 oz. grated Gruyère, 1 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, ¹⁄₂ lb. short paste, vegetable stock.

_Method._--Parboil the little artichokes, remove the skins and finish cooking them in vegetable stock. Line a buttered pastry ring with the paste (about a quarter of an inch thick) and fill it with some uncooked rice, or split peas, wrapped in greased paper and bake in a quick oven until it is very lightly coloured. Then take it out and remove the filling and turn the case carefully from the ring on to a baking sheet; fill it with the artichokes (taking care they are thoroughly drained), pour the sauce over them and put the case back into a fairly quick oven until the surface of the sauce is lightly browned. The sauce should be quite thick and after taking it from the stove, stir in the tablespoonful of cream and the grated cheese and use as directed.

ARTICHOKE AND POTATO PIE

Four globe artichokes, 1¹⁄₂ lbs. salad potatoes (which are close and firm), 2 hard-boiled eggs, seasoning, ¹⁄₂ pint nicely-flavoured brown sauce (thick), a dessertspoonful tomato catsup, 2 mushrooms, parsley, onion, ¹⁄₂ lb. short paste.

_Method._--Boil some globe artichokes in the usual way and remove all the leaves and the “choke” and cut the remaining portion into quarters; cook also the peeled salad potatoes, taking them from the fire directly they are tender, and cut them into moderately thick slices; mince two good sized mushrooms and mix them with a large dessertspoonful of chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of scalded onion, which has been minced. Line a buttered pie-dish with the short paste, which should be fairly thin, then fill it with layers of the artichokes and potatoes (mixed) with a few pieces of hard boiled egg, cut in quarters, and over each layer scatter some of the mushroom mixture and season with salt, pepper, and a very little mixed spice. When the dish is full pour in the sauce, mixed with the tomato catsup; then cover the pie, brush it over with some beaten egg (or milk) and bake in a fairly quick oven for one hour.

ARTICHOKES ROASTED

Jerusalem artichokes, palmine (vegetable butter), seasoning.

_Method._--Wash, peel, and trim the artichokes and throw them as they are done into a basin of cold acidulated water (produced by the addition of a small quantity of vinegar or lemon-juice), then dry them on a cloth and put them into a baking tin containing some warm palmine, sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg over the artichokes and bake them in a well-heated oven until they are evenly browned, which should be in about three quarters of an hour. They should be basted frequently, and if the heat is fierce, a piece of greased paper should be placed over them until they are nearly done; drain the artichokes on soft paper on taking them from the fat, scatter a little chopped parsley over them, and serve with a dish of spaghetti à l’Italienne.

ARTICHOKE (JAPANESE) RISSOLES

Half a pound of artichokes, 1¹⁄₂ gills very thick white sauce, 2 ozs. dry, powdered breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice, 1 whole egg and 1 yolk, puffed potatoes.

_Method._--Prepare and cook the artichokes as in the recipe for Artichokes à la Mornay, and when they are quite tender, drain them thoroughly and cut them up into small pieces, have the sauce ready, add the yolk of a raw egg to it, which has been beaten up with the lemon-juice, and ascertain that it has sufficient seasoning, then mix the artichokes with it and spread them out on a flat dish to get cold. Take about a dessertspoonful of the mixture at a time, and form it on a floured board into little balls; dip them into beaten egg, then cover thickly with the breadcrumbs, and after allowing time for them to dry, fry the rissoles in deep, boiling fat. The sauce should be well flavoured with vegetables and finished with a little cream if practicable. Serve the rissoles round a pyramid of puffed potatoes and garnish with fried parsley. The potatoes should be prepared thus: Peel them and cut them length-wise into rather thick strips, then into dice-shaped squares, and put them into a basin of cold water for about fifteen minutes, then drain them and dry them thoroughly in a soft cloth. Melt sufficient fat (or oil) in a stewpan to cover the potatoes; when it is hot (not boiling) put them in and let them cook gently until they are tender; then take them out and make the fat boil, testing it with a piece of bread to ascertain when the right temperature is reached. Put the potatoes into the boiling fat and fry them quickly for a few minutes, when they will puff up and become a golden brown; drain them on paper and scatter some chopped parsley and salt over them.

ARTICHOKE SOUFFLÉ

Two ounces butter, 1¹⁄₂ ozs. flour, ¹⁄₂ pint milk, 2 eggs, ¹⁄₂ pint sieved artichokes, 1 dessertspoonful grated cheese, lemon-juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, curry powder.

_Method._--Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour gradually; when a smooth paste is formed, pour in the milk by degrees, stirring quickly all the time with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps forming, and continue the stirring until a perfectly smooth, thick sauce is made. Remove the saucepan from the fire and add the yolks of the eggs, beating one into the sauce before adding the other; then stir in the cheese (preferably Parmesan), a squeeze of lemon-juice, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a small saltspoonful of curry powder. Have ready some well-boiled Jerusalem artichokes which have been passed through a sieve, add a liberal half pint to the soufflé mixture, and then stir in lightly the whites of the eggs, whisked to the stiffest froth which can be obtained, and pour at once into a buttered china soufflé mould. Smooth the surface of the soufflé and pour a tablespoonful of warm butter over it and sprinkle it with dried breadcrumbs, which have been pounded and sieved, and bake at once in rather a quick oven for half an hour. Serve the soufflé with Brussels sprouts prepared as follows: Cook the sprouts in plenty of boiling water, seasoned with salt and two or three lumps of sugar, add a little piece of soda to improve the colour, and leave the cover off so that the steam may escape. Directly they are tender, turn the sprouts into a colander and then drain them on a cloth and put them into a hot pipkin. Melt half an ounce of butter in a small saucepan, add salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a dust (each) of castor sugar and curry powder and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice; pour the butter over the sprouts and leave them in the oven for a minute or two before sending them to the table.

BAKED BEANS WITH SPINACH AND EGGS

Some red haricot beans, a small onion, a few pieces of celery, tomato sauce (recipe, page 106), spinach, eggs (allowing one for each person), butter, seasoning.

_Method._--Soak the beans over night, wash them and put them into a saucepan of cold, salted water; as soon as it has boiled rapidly pour off the water and fill up the saucepan with boiling water, adding the onion, celery, and salt, pepper and nutmeg, and let the beans boil gently until the skins will break easily. Then turn them into a colander and remove the skins; melt an ounce or two of butter (a liberal quantity should be allowed) in an earthenware pipkin; put in the beans, pour the tomato sauce over them, cover closely (tying a piece of greased paper over the top if the lid does not fit well) and stand the pipkin in a pan of hot water in a moderately hot oven for five hours, replenishing the water when necessary and adding a little more sauce if it is required. Butter as many china egg poachers as are needed and break a new-laid egg into each, scatter a little salt and pepper over the top and place the poachers in a shallow pan of boiling water in the oven and let the eggs cook until they are sufficiently set to turn out. Make a border of carefully prepared spinach on a hot dish, place the eggs at intervals on it, and fill the middle with the baked beans; a little powdered parsley sprinkled over the eggs will add to the dainty appearance of the dish. The water in which the beans are cooked should be saved as it would be a good foundation for various vegetable soups or sauces.

BAKED EGGS WITH SPAGHETTI

As many eggs as are required for a dish, chopped parsley, lemon-thyme, minced shallot, breadcrumbs, seasoning, 3 or 4 tomatoes, 3 ozs. spaghetti, butter, 2 ozs. mild, grated cheese, watercress.

_Method._--Butter as many china ramekin cases as there are eggs; mix some chopped parsley, a very little lemon-thyme and a small quantity of shallot with some fine white breadcrumbs; season with salt, pepper, and a little curry powder, and sprinkle the mixture thickly over the inside of the cases. Break one egg at a time into a coffee cup, and turn it carefully into one of the ramekins; pour a teaspoonful of warm butter over the top and cover with the remains of the herb mixture and bake at once in a hot oven until the whites of the eggs are set. Have ready the tomatoes cut in half and fried; turn the eggs from the cups and put one on each piece of tomato and arrange them round a hot dish with spaghetti, prepared as follows, in the middle and garnish with watercress. Cook the spaghetti in boiling, salted water until it is tender, then drain it well and put it into a saucepan containing two ounces of warm butter; season it with salt and black pepper, and scatter in the cheese (preferably Parmesan) by degrees while turning the spaghetti lightly and quickly with a fork, and serve at once.

BATTER BALLS

Two ounces of butter, 1¹⁄₂ gills water, ¹⁄₂ lb. dry, sifted flour, 2 eggs, 2 yolks, seasoning, grated Parmesan, sea-kale, celery, or cauliflower, white sauce.

_Method._--Put the water into a stewpan with the butter; as soon as it boils draw the pan to the side of the stove and add the flour, by degrees, stirring quickly all the time with a wooden spoon, and when it is all worked in, a perfectly smooth paste should result. Continue the stirring for a few minutes until the paste is sufficiently dry to leave the sides of the pan, then remove it from the stove and let it cool a little, but it must not get cold; add the eggs, beating one into the paste before putting in the second, then add two more yolks in the same way and season well with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. The paste should now be sufficiently stiff to roll into little balls on a floured board, allowing a heaped teaspoonful for each. When it has all been used, drop a few at a time into a pan of deep fat, which is just under boiling point, taking care to remove them directly they are a golden colour; the temperature must be slightly reduced each time before more little balls are put in, but the pan may be moved to a hotter part of the stove after they have been in a minute or two. Drain the little balls on paper, sprinkle some grated Parmesan over them and serve them with braised sea-kale, or it may be plainly boiled and masked with white sauce; celery or cauliflower would be equally suitable if sea-kale is not available.

BATTER CASSOLETTES

One pint young, shelled peas, mint, ¹⁄₄ pint thick white sauce, ¹⁄₄ lb. flour, 1¹⁄₂ tablespoonfuls salad oil, 2 eggs.

_Method._--Put the flour into a basin, make a hollow in the middle and pour in the oil mixed with a quarter of a pint of tepid water, and work in the flour by degrees until it is perfectly smooth, then add one egg at a time, beating each separately into the batter; cover the basin with a cloth and leave for an hour or two. Cook the peas until tender in boiling water, to which salt, two lumps of sugar, and a few leaves of mint have been added. When done, drain them and cover with a thick white sauce, which should be delicately flavoured with chopped mint, and keep hot. Brush some plain dariole moulds over with hot fat, line them with the batter, and plunge them at once into a pan containing some deep, boiling fat; directly the batter is a golden brown, take out the moulds, and with a pointed knife carefully detach the little batter cases from the moulds; brush them over quickly with warm butter, sprinkle with some chopped parsley and fill them with the peas.

BEANS (FRENCH) WITH EGG FRITTERS

One pound French beans (preferably the stringless variety), 2 ozs. butter, 1 tablespoonful minced parsley, a few leaves of tarragon (minced), ¹⁄₂ teaspoonful finely-minced shallot, 1 tablespoonful lemon-juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, castor sugar, eggs, frying batter.

_Method._--Boil the French beans, leaving them whole; if neither stringless nor sufficiently young for the strings not to be noticeable, remove the latter and cut the beans into large diamond-shaped pieces. Directly they are tender drain them thoroughly, finishing them on a soft cloth, and put them into a hot dish; have rather more than one and a half ounces of the butter hot in a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of parsley, the shallot, tarragon, lemon-juice, and seasoning; pour the mixture over the beans and serve them accompanied by egg fritters made thus: Butter as many china egg-poachers as are required and scatter over them a little chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, then carefully break an egg into each and poach them until firm in a sauté (or other suitable) pan, containing sufficient boiling water to rather more than half cover the china cases. When the eggs are ready, put them aside to get cold, then turn them from the cases, dip them into a thick batter, and fry in deep, boiling fat until the fritters are a golden colour; dish them neatly and garnish with watercress.

BROAD BEANS AND BAKED EGGS

Beans, white sauce, eggs, butter, finely-chopped parsley, minced onion, chopped tarragon, seasoning, croutons.

_Method._--Boil the beans in salted water until they are tender, drain them, remove the skins and rub them through a wire sieve; put them into a saucepan containing a small quantity of butter; add sufficient thick white sauce to bring them to a fairly soft consistency, then season with celery salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and make the purée hot. Then mould it on a hot dish into the shape of a thick oval cake, smoothing the surface, and with a spoon make as many little hollows (they must not be deep), at even distances, as there are eggs, and into each hollow put one of the eggs, prepared as below, and garnish the edge of the moulded beans with little triangular-shaped croutons of fried bread. Butter as many china egg-cookers as are required, and sprinkle sufficient of the chopped herbs and onion to cover the inside of each cooker. Break one egg at a time into a small cup and carefully turn it into the china case; put a little piece of butter on the top of the eggs, season them with celery salt, and pepper, then scatter some of the herb mixture over the surface, and bake in a quick oven from six to eight minutes, when the eggs should be sufficiently set to be easily turned out.

BROAD BEANS IN ITALIAN STYLE

One quart of beans, ¹⁄₄ pint sieved tomatoes, vegetable stock, 1 small onion, 2 ozs. butter, seasoning, potato border, 2 or 3 eggs, parsley.

_Method._--Mince the onion and fry it in a stewpan until it begins to change colour (it must on no account be allowed to get brown) in one ounce of butter; then add a quart of shelled beans, which are still quite small, and pour in sufficient nicely-flavoured vegetable stock to cover them; place a sheet of buttered paper over them before putting on the lid, and let them simmer gently until they are tender, adding a little more stock if necessary, but when done it should be nearly all absorbed. Have ready a neatly-made border of mashed potato, which has been baked until brown in the oven, and the tomato pulp hot in a small saucepan; add the remaining ounce of butter to it and season with salt, pepper, and a dust of castor sugar; fill the border with the beans, pour the tomato pulp over them, scatter the surface with chopped parsley and garnish with little heaps of buttered egg.

BUTTER BEANS MOULDED

Eight ounces of butter (or haricot) beans, 1 small onion, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, chopped parsley, 2 ozs. butter, 1 egg.

_Method._--Soak the beans for at least twelve hours in cold water, then boil them until tender with the vegetables and, after draining them thoroughly, pass them together through a wire sieve into a basin. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, add rather less than two ounces of butter and an egg, and beat the mixture for a few minutes, then press it into a buttered mould; tie a piece of greased paper over the top and stand it in the oven in a pan of boiling water and let it cook for three quarters of an hour. Leave the mould on the kitchen table for a few moments on taking it from the oven, then turn the contents on to a hot dish; scatter the chopped parsley over the top and serve with a dish of baked tomatoes filled with herb stuffing. Beans prepared in the same way may be made into rissoles and fried in boiling fat; in this case they should be served with tomato sauce.

BUTTER BEANS IN PASTRY CASE

Half a pound of short paste, ¹⁄₂ root of celeriac, ¹⁄₂ lb. butter beans, ¹⁄₂ pint white sauce (see recipe on page 106), ¹⁄₂ oz. butter, chopped parsley.

_Method._--Line a buttered pastry ring (about six inches in diameter) with the paste, which should be a quarter of an inch thick, and fill it with about a teacupful of rice wrapped up securely in greased paper and bake in a quick oven. When done remove the rice and turn the pastry case carefully from the ring and place it on a shelf in the oven where the heat is moderate, for about five minutes; the appearance will be improved if the sides and edge are brushed over with egg before the case is put back in the oven. Serve it filled with beans, prepared according to the directions given below, and scatter the chopped parsley over the surface. If preferred a case of mashed potato can be used instead of the pastry; it should be brushed over with beaten egg and then browned in the oven. Cook the beans--which should have previously soaked for twelve hours in cold water--until they are tender, then drain them thoroughly, season them with salt and pepper and put them for ten minutes into a sauce made thus: Boil the celeriac (after cleaning and peeling it) in salted water until it is done, then pass it through a wire sieve and mix it with half a pint of carefully-prepared white sauce; make it hot, then add the beans and half an ounce of butter and use as directed.

CABBAGE STUFFED WITH NUTS

A medium-sized red cabbage, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1 small turnip, 3 ozs. Brazil nuts, 3 ozs. pine nut kernels (or Cob nuts), 4 ozs. bread, boiling milk, 2¹⁄₂ ozs. butter, 1 egg, thick brown sauce, seasoning, fried breadcrumbs.

_Method._--Partly cook the cabbage, then drain it and make a hollow in the middle beginning at the stalk end, fill it with the nut forcemeat, and tie a wide piece of tape round it. Melt one ounce of butter (dairy or nut) in a stewpan and put in an onion, the carrot and turnip, each cut into slices; season with salt and pepper, and fry gently for ten minutes; then put in the cabbage and pour in sufficient brown sauce to about half cover it; place a piece of greased paper over the pan before putting on the lid, and put it in a moderately hot oven for about half an hour; the cabbage should be basted with the sauce two or three times while it is cooking. When it is done, carefully remove it from the stewpan on to a hot dish, scatter some chopped parsley over it, and surround it with little heaps of fried breadcrumbs; the sauce in which it was cooked should be strained and sent to the table in a hot tureen. For the forcemeat, put an ounce of butter into a saucepan with a small onion (sliced), and fry for five minutes, taking care it does not brown; put the bread, which should be the crumb of a milk loaf, into a basin and pour in sufficient boiling milk to cover it and let it soak while the onion is being fried. Then add the bread to the onion; season with salt, pepper, and a little mace, and stir over the fire until a smooth thick paste is formed, when it should be passed through a sieve into a basin. Have ready the nuts which have been passed through a nut mill or fine mincer; add them to the paste and also half an ounce of butter and a well-beaten egg and use as directed. Large Cos lettuces are excellent served in the same way as the cabbage.

CARROTS IN RICE BORDER

One bunch young carrots, 2 or 3 tomatoes, 2 ozs. butter, ¹⁄₄ pint thick brown sauce, white stock, milk, 1 teacupful rice, seasoning, chopped parsley.

_Method._--Put the rice, after washing it well, into a saucepan containing plenty of cold water and bring it gradually to boiling point and let it boil for ten minutes; then pour off the water and add an equal quantity of milk and nicely-flavoured, colourless vegetable stock and let it cook until it is very tender and all the liquid is absorbed. Add one ounce of butter to the rice, a tablespoonful of tomato catsup and some salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of curry powder and put it into a well-buttered border mould, pressing it down firmly, and bake in a fairly quick oven for half an hour. Scrape and trim the carrots (preferably the French round variety), and cook them in salted water until they are just tender, then drain them and put them into a saucepan containing the butter warmed and seasoned with salt, pepper, castor sugar, and nutmeg; cover the pan, and let them simmer steadily for a quarter of an hour, then add the tomatoes, which should be sieved, and the brown sauce, and let the carrots cook for another quarter of an hour. Turn the rice border from the mould and fill the middle with the carrots; sprinkle a little parsley over them and serve at once. If preferred, the border can be made of equal quantities of carefully-mashed potato (prepared as if for potato rissoles, with an egg) and any well-cooked green vegetable which has been passed through a wire sieve.

CASSOLETTES WITH PEAS

Two pounds of cooked potatoes, 2 ozs. butter, 3 tablespoonfuls cream (or milk), 2 raw yolks, 1 whole raw egg, breadcrumbs, seasoning, 1 pint peas, 1 tablespoonful minced onion, ¹⁄₄ teaspoonful chopped mint.

_Method._--Put one ounce of butter into an earthenware casserole with the onion and cook gently for five minutes (without colouring), then add the peas and simmer them for ten minutes in the butter, turning them constantly with a wooden spoon; at the end of the time season with salt, pepper, and castor sugar, add the mint and a quarter of a pint of water; bring the latter gradually to boiling point, then cover the peas closely with a greased paper before putting on the lid of the casserole, and let them cook very gently until they are quite tender. They must be stirred from time to time, and if they get too dry a little more water may be added, but it is not intended there should be much, and when done it should be nearly all absorbed, and then two tablespoonfuls of cream should be added and the simmering continued, for ten minutes more, but the cream must not be allowed to boil. Pass the potatoes through a sieve into a basin (they should be still hot) and add one ounce of warm butter and a tablespoonful of cream and beat them well, then add (one at a time) the yolks of two raw eggs, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, a pinch of castor sugar and a few drops of lemon-juice and beat the mixture again for a few minutes and spread it out on a flat dish. When it is cold take a small portion at a time and roll it on a floured board into a little ball (of about the size of a golf-ball); flatten it slightly at each end, thus converting it into the shape of a small cylinder; mark the top with a small round cutter, then dip the cassolettes into beaten egg and cover them thickly with fine, dried breadcrumbs, and after allowing time for the crumbs to dry, fry them in deep boiling fat until they are a decided golden colour. Drain the cassolettes, and carefully remove the marked portion, then take out all the soft inside, leaving the cases hollow; fill them with the stewed peas, place in the oven for a few moments and serve garnished with parsley. Cassolettes made in the same way may be filled with buttered eggs mixed with a small quantity of chopped parsley and onion, and also hard boiled eggs chopped and mixed with white mushroom sauce.

CASSOLETTES OF RICE

Six ounces of rice, colourless vegetable stock, 2¹⁄₂ ozs. butter, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful finely-chopped parsley, 2¹⁄₂ ozs. onion (scalded and minced), ¹⁄₂ dessertspoonful chopped tarragon and chervil (mixed), 1 tablespoonful ground sweet almonds, 1 teaspoonful curry powder, Plasmon, breadcrumbs.

_Method._--Put the rice into a saucepan of cold salted water; bring it gradually to boiling point and let it boil for six minutes, then rinse it in cold water, and cook it until quite tender in the vegetable stock; drain it well, and put it back into the saucepan with one ounce of butter to dry; season it with salt, pepper, and curry powder, and fill some buttered dariole moulds with it, pressing it in firmly and put aside to get cold. Then turn out the moulded rice; dip it in beaten egg and cover it thickly with very fine, dried breadcrumbs mixed with an equal quantity of Plasmon powder; mark the top of each with a small round cutter, and after allowing the crumbs time to dry, fry in boiling oil (or vegetable butter) until of a deep golden brown. Remove the marked portion from the cassolettes and carefully take out the rice from the middle, thus leaving little hollow cases; have ready some buttered eggs (prepared as below), fill the cassolettes with them, cover the top with the fried almond mixture, and put into the oven for a minute or two to ensure their being quite hot. Beat three eggs until they are quite frothy, add the parsley, half a teaspoonful of the onion, and the tarragon and chervil; season with celery salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and pour into a saucepan containing one ounce of warm butter; stir the eggs over the fire until they are sufficiently set, but be sure and remove them while they are still creamy, and use as directed. Fry the remainder of the onion with the almonds and curry powder in half an ounce of butter, until the onion is crisp and lightly browned, keeping the mixture stirred to prevent it from sticking to the pan and from acquiring too much colour.

CAULIFLOWER IN BATTER

A medium-sized cauliflower, butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, ¹⁄₂ pint milk, 1 egg, ¹⁄₂ teaspoonful baking powder, brown sauce, seasoning.

_Method._--Put the flour into a basin, season with salt and pepper, make a hollow in the middle, and pour in gradually sufficient cold milk to form a perfectly smooth paste. Work this well with a wooden spoon, and then stir in the remainder of the milk; cover the basin with a cloth and leave it for two hours. Boil the cauliflower until it is just tender; drain all the moisture from it and divide it into small pieces and put into a buttered gratin (or pie) dish, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Whisk the egg to a thick froth and add it to the batter, then stir in the baking powder and pour over the cauliflower; place a few pieces of butter on the top, and bake at once in a quick oven. Serve with the brown sauce in a tureen. Other vegetables of various kinds may be cooked in the same way.

CAULIFLOWER WITH CURRIED EGG SAUCE

A nice compact cauliflower, mashed potato, ¹⁄₂ pint curry sauce, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tomatoes.

_Method._--Boil the cauliflower until it is tender and drain it carefully on a hot, soft cloth. Make some mashed potato into a moderately thick, round cake and fry it in a small quantity of hot fat until it is nicely browned, then turn it on to a hot dish; place the cauliflower on it and cover the latter with the curry sauce, to which the eggs have been added after being coarsely chopped; garnish the edge of the dish with slices of fried tomato and serve directly it is ready. A recipe for curry sauce will be found on page 104.

CAULIFLOWER WITH EGG-BALLS

One medium-sized cauliflower, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. minced onion, 3 ozs. pine kernels, 1 gill white sauce, as many eggs as are required, some round croutons of fried bread, seasoning.

_Method._--Cook the cauliflower carefully, keeping it whole and compact; drain it well on a soft cloth and place it in a fireproof dish; mask it with the white sauce (which may with advantage be slightly flavoured with cheese), and sprinkle the nuts, prepared according to the directions below, over it evenly and put into the oven for two or three minutes to ensure it being very hot, and serve surrounded by egg-balls placed separately on little round croutons. Wash the pine kernels two or three times in boiling water and pass them through a nut-mill or fine mincer; melt the butter in a small omelet pan and put in the onion and kernels; season with salt and pepper and fry gently until they are nicely browned and quite crisp; they should be stirred constantly to prevent the onion from becoming too dark. The eggs should be broken separately into a coffee cup and dropped into a pan containing an abundance of boiling oil, which has been stirred with the handle of a long wooden spoon until it is revolving rapidly; it is essential that each egg falls into the middle of the oil, and the circular motion must be kept up until it is done, which will take about the same time as if the egg were poached in the usual manner.

CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS

A cooked cauliflower, butter, lemon-juice, seasoning, frying batter, watercress.

_Method._--Melt a small quantity of butter, add a squeeze of lemon-juice and season it with celery salt, pepper, and a dust of curry powder; divide the cauliflower (which should be thoroughly drained) into little branches; dip these in the butter and put them aside until the butter has become hard. Then dip them separately into a thick frying batter, and drop them into a saucepan containing an abundance of boiling fat; directly the fritters are a golden brown remove them, and, after draining them on soft paper, dish them up and garnish with watercress, which has been lightly dressed with oil and vinegar.

CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO MERINGUE

One small cauliflower, 2 tomatoes, 2 oz. butter, 1¹⁄₂ ozs. flour, 2 eggs, ¹⁄₂ pint milk, 1 dessertspoonful grated cheese, seasoning.

_Method._--Cook the cauliflower and divide it into little branches; remove the skin and seeds from the tomatoes and cut them up into small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour; when a thick paste is formed add the milk, by degrees, stirring quickly all the time and continue the stirring until the mixture has boiled for a few minutes and is perfectly smooth and very thick. Remove the pan from the stove and add the cheese and salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, then beat in separately the yolks of the eggs, and when they are well mixed, add the cauliflower and the tomatoes, turn the mixture into a buttered pie-dish and put it in a moderate oven for ten minutes. Add a pinch of salt to the whites of the eggs and whisk them to a very stiff froth; season with celery salt and pepper and spread quickly and neatly over the top of the cauliflower mixture, then replace the dish in the oven and continue the cooking until the white of egg is a pale fawn colour, when it will be ready to serve. This dish should be accompanied by potato rissoles.

CELERIAC AIGRETTES

Half a root of celeriac, 1 oz. butter, ¹⁄₂ pint water, 4 ozs. flour, 3 ozs. grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1 yolk, seasoning.

_Method._--Wash and peel the celeriac and boil it in salted water until it is quite tender; drain it well and when it is cool cut it up into pieces (rather larger than a walnut) of a convenient size. Put the butter into a saucepan with the water, and when it boils stir in gradually the flour, and do not cease stirring until a smooth, thick paste is formed which leaves the sides of the saucepan. Remove the pan from the stove and add the eggs (one at a time) and the third yolk; then the cheese and salt, pepper and cayenne, and spread the paste on a flat dish. When it is cool, envelop the pieces of celeriac in about a teaspoonful of it, and as each piece is ready, drop it into a saucepan containing plenty of hot fat which is just on the point of boiling; remove the aigrettes the moment they are a golden brown, serve them piled up on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Unless the aigrettes are to be served as a savoury, they should be accompanied by potatoes prepared as follows: Cut four or five cold, steamed potatoes (a close and not a floury kind must be selected) into small square pieces of about the size of dice; flour them lightly and season them with salt and pepper. Melt one ounce of butter in a sauté pan; add a dessertspoonful of minced onion, and when it has cooked gently for two minutes, add the potatoes and stir them until they are lightly browned, taking care that the heat is not sufficient to burn them. Add a quarter of a pint of nicely-flavoured vegetable broth; let it boil for a few moments, then stir in a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and the potatoes will be ready to serve.

CELERIAC CUTLETS

Half a pint of very thick white sauce, yolks of 2 raw eggs, ¹⁄₂ pint of sieved celeriac, which has been thoroughly boiled and drained, 1 whole egg, breadcrumbs, macaroni.

_Method._--Make the sauce thicker than is usually required, using one and a half ounces of flour to half a pint of milk, and when it is hot, add the yolks, beating them into the sauce while the pan is still on the stove, but taking care it does not reboil after the eggs are incorporated. Ascertain that the sauce is sufficiently seasoned, and stir in the celeriac, then spread the mixture out on a dish and when it is cold divide it into equal portions and form each neatly on a floured board into the shape of a small cutlet; insert a little piece of macaroni at the pointed end, to represent the bone, then mask the cutlets with beaten egg and fine breadcrumbs (seasoned with salt and pepper) and fry them in deep, boiling fat until they are evenly browned, and serve them on a support of spinach or sieved cabbage.

CELERIAC AND EGGS AU GRATIN

A root of celeriac, ¹⁄₄ pint thick white sauce, 1³⁄₄ ozs. butter, seasoning, 6 eggs, breadcrumbs.

_Method._--Wash and peel the celeriac and let it cook in boiling salted water until it is tender, then drain it and pass it through a sieve into a basin, add the sauce, an ounce of butter and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter six china egg-cases, or shells, and fill them with the prepared celery; make a hollow in the middle and fill it with a new-laid egg, taking care not to pierce the yolk when breaking the shell; put a small piece of butter on the top of each egg, scatter a little salt and pepper over it, cover with fine breadcrumbs, and bake for eight or ten minutes in a quick oven.

CELERY PIE

A quarter of a pound of short paste, ¹⁄₂ pint celeriac (cooked and sieved), rather more than 1¹⁄₂ gills milk, 1 slice onion, parsley, seasoning, 1¹⁄₂ ozs. butter, 1¹⁄₂ ozs. flour, grated cheese, 2 eggs.

_Method._--Line a buttered pie-dish with the paste rolled out fairly thin. Let the milk simmer for a quarter of an hour with the onion, two or three pieces of parsley, and a small blade of mace, then cook the butter and flour together for a few minutes and, when quite smooth, moisten gradually with the milk (strained), and stir quickly until the sauce has boiled and thickened. Remove the pan from the stove and add the yolks of the eggs, one tablespoonful of grated cheese, the parsley, and celeriac, then whisk the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them into the mixture, and turn it into the lined pie-dish and bake for half an hour in a well-heated oven. This dish is equally nice served hot or cold; if the latter, it should be turned out of the pie-dish intact in the pastry case.

CELERY AND MACARONI TIMBALE

Half a pint of sieved (cooked) celery, ¹⁄₄ pint thick white sauce, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful grated cheese, 6 large champignons (if practicable), seasoning, 4 ozs. boiled macaroni, butter, tomato sauce.

_Method._--Stir the celery into a saucepan containing the sauce, which should be nicely flavoured with onion, etc., and as soon as it is thoroughly hot add the yolks of the eggs, and when they are well blended with the other ingredients, remove the pan from the stove and stir in the grated cheese (which should be mild and dry), the champignons, cut into moderately thin slices, half an ounce of butter, and some salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a soufflé mould (or basin) of suitable size and line it neatly with the macaroni, which may be used in long pieces, or if the thick kind is used it may be cut into pieces of about half an inch in length. Add a pinch of salt to the whites of the eggs, whisk them to a very stiff froth, and stir them lightly into the celery mixture, then fill the lined mould; place a piece of buttered paper over the top, then cover closely with a saucer and place the mould in a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to about three parts cover it, and let the timbale steam gently and steadily for three quarters of an hour. When it is done let it stand on the kitchen table for two or three minutes, then turn it from the mould and surround with tomato sauce, or, if preferred, a thick brown vegetable sauce may be used.

CHEESE OMELET WITH FRENCH BEANS

Three eggs, 2 ozs. grated Parmesan cheese, 1¹⁄₄ ozs. butter, celery salt, pepper, nutmeg.

_Method._--Break the eggs into a basin and beat them well with a patent beater, season with celery salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add the cheese and a quarter of an ounce of butter in tiny pieces. Melt one ounce of butter in an omelet pan over a very clear fire, and directly it begins to bubble pour in the egg mixture; prick it all over with a fork to let the uncooked mixture come in contact with the hot pan; loosen it round the sides when it begins to set, and keep shaking the pan to prevent the omelet from sticking; directly it is sufficiently set (it should be still creamy on the top) fold it over in half and turn it on to a hot dish. Have ready some beans prepared according to the directions given below, arrange them quickly round the omelet, and serve it with as little delay as possible. Boil some very young French beans whole, after pinching off the little piece at each end; drain them very thoroughly and put them into a hot saucepan; season them with salt, pepper, and a tiny dust of sugar, and add by degrees some maître d’hôtel butter--allowing about two ounces for a medium-sized dish of beans; a recipe for it will be found on page 102.

CHESTNUT CURRY

One pound chestnuts, 2 ozs. butter, 4 ozs. onion, 2 tomatoes, 1 sweet apple, 1 dessertspoonful curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful flour, 1 dessertspoonful sweet chutney, 2 tablespoonfuls grated cocoanut, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls lemon-juice, ³⁄₄ pint brown vegetable stock, ¹⁄₄ pint boiling water, salt, pepper.

_Method._--Cut a small piece from the pointed end of the chestnuts and boil them until they are sufficiently soft to be pierced with a very fine skewer. Then remove the outer and inner skins, and put the nuts into a sauce made according to the directions given below; cover the curry with a thick piece of greased paper before putting on the lid of the pan, and simmer very gently in a moderate oven for an hour. Serve the curry surrounded by carefully-boiled rice which should be garnished with little pieces of pickled red cabbage and gherkin. For the sauce fry the onion (thinly sliced), the tomatoes, and apple (also sliced) in the butter until the onion shows signs of changing colour, then add the curry powder, and draw the pan to the side of the stove and let the contents simmer for twelve minutes. Pour the boiling water on to the cocoanut (preferably freshly grated, but desiccated can be used) and steep by the side of the stove until required. At the end of the time named stir the flour into the pan, and when it is smoothly mixed with the butter, etc., pour in the stock and stir over the fire until it has boiled and thickened; then add the chutney, vinegar, lemon-juice and let the sauce simmer gently for half an hour, when it should be strained through a sieve into a stewpan; stir the cocoanut, and strain the liquid from it into the curry; then add the chestnuts and cook as directed above. A salad composed of sliced tomatoes and small pieces of crisp, white celery, with a plain oil and vinegar dressing, should be served with the curry.

CHICORY MOULD WITH MACARONI

One pound of chicory, butter, 1 pint white sauce (for recipe _see_ page 106), 3 eggs, 3 ozs. Swiss egg macaroni, ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (for recipe _see_ page 103), seasoning.

_Method._--Partly cook the chicory in boiling water, drain it well; cut it into small pieces and put it into a buttered stewpan. Season with salt, pepper, a dust of castor sugar, and a sprinkle of dry grated cheese and cover it with half the white sauce, then put on the lid of the pan and let it cook in a slow oven for about an hour, or rather longer. On taking it from the oven stir the chicory and the remaining sauce into a basin containing three stiffly whisked eggs; turn the mixture into a buttered soufflé mould; place the latter in a stewpan of boiling water, in the oven, for half an hour or until the contents are set. Let the mould stand on the kitchen table for two minutes before turning out the chicory, and serve it surrounded by macaroni prepared as follows: Break the macaroni into small pieces and cook in boiling salted water until it is tender; drain well and put it into a hot pipkin containing some warm butter; season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; cover it with the brown sauce and put it into the oven for a quarter of an hour. Sea-kale or celery may be prepared in the same way as the chicory.

COLD CURRY SHAPE

Three ounces each of Brazil nuts and pine kernels, 3 ozs. sieved brown bread, ¹⁄₂ gill milk, 1¹⁄₂ ozs. butter, ¹⁄₂ oz. chopped onion, salt, pepper, nutmeg, ¹⁄₂ pint curry sauce (_see_ page 104), 1 tablespoonful tomato catsup, 1 gill aspic jelly, 3 ozs. boiled rice, aspic jelly and parsley for garnishing.