Chapter I: Preface

The older ones of us look back on the ice-cream of our youth as a luxury, to be expected on festivals and holidays. The rising generation, however, is coming to look on it as a food. Once the manufacture of the confectionery shop and the household, it is now produced in great quantities by concerns devoting themselves to it entirely, making it by highly developed standardized processes. A line of special machinery has been perfected for its manufacture. The subject is taught in the colleges. Yet the home manufacture has not passed and should not pass; rather should the product be made more frequently and in larger quantity in the household.

No longer must one offer an excuse for a book on ice-cream. This book is made for class-room and laboratory use, growing out of the author’s teaching experience; the manufacturer’s interest has been set forth; yet it is hoped that the housewife will find directions for her use.

Acknowledgment is due the following parties for valuable assistance either for the illustrations, or definite information or helpful criticisms: Henry Vogt Machine Co., Louisville, Ky.; Wheats Ice Cream Co., Buffalo, N. Y.; DeLaval Separator Co., New York, N. Y.; Jamison Cold Storage Door Co., Hagerstown, Md.; Merrell-Soule Co., Syracuse, N. Y.; The Ekenberg Co., Cortland, N. Y.; Chapin-Sacks Mfg. Co., Washington, D. C.; The Creamery Package Mfg. Co., Chicago, Ill.; York Mfg. Co., York, Pa.; Davis-Watkins Dairymen’s Mfg. Co., Chicago Ill.; J. G. Cherry Co., Cedar Rapids, Ia.; Emery Thompson Machine and Supply Co., New York, N. Y.; T. D. Cutler, Ice-Cream Trade Journal, New York, N. Y.; Brunswick Refrigerating Co., New Brunswick, N. J.; L. O. Thayer, The International Confectioner, New York, N. Y.; Mojonnier Bros., Chicago, Ill.; Sharples Separator Co., West Chester, Pa.; Joseph Burnett Extract Co., Boston, Mass.; Nafis Glass Co., Chicago, Ill.; J. E. Reyna, Dept. of Drawing, New York State College of Agriculture, Ithaca, N. Y. The following members of the Dairy Dept. of the New York State College of Agriculture at Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y.: W. A. Stocking, H. E. Ross, T. J. McInerney, W. E. Ayres, G. C. Dutton, H. C. Troy, E. S. Guthrie, G. C. Supplee.

W. W. FISK.

ITHACA, N. Y.,
_March 1, 1919_.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

(Numbers in the text refer to paragraphs)

CHAPTER I

PAGES

GENERAL STATEMENTS ON ICE-CREAM 1-7
Materials used in ice-cream, 1; Definition of ice-cream, 2;
Problems of ice-cream-making, 3; Ice-cream-making a science, 4.

CHAPTER II

MILK AND CREAM AS RELATED TO ICE-CREAM 8-24

Method of securing supply, 5; Quality of milk and cream
desired, 6; Why milk and cream are not of the desired quality,
7; The flavor of foods eaten by the cow, 8; The absorption of
flavors and odors in the atmosphere, 9; The unhealthy condition
of the cow, 10; The bacteria in the milk, 11; The sediment
test, 12; How to prevent the growth of micro-organisms in the
milk and cream, 13; Milk and cream production and handling, 14;
Clarifier, 15; The chemical composition of the milk and cream,
16.

CHAPTER III

MANUFACTURED MILK PRODUCTS AS RELATED TO ICE-CREAM 25-42

_Condensed and Evaporated Milk_: Method of manufacture, 17;
Standards for condensed milk, 18; Conditions essential for a
milk condensory, 19; Supply of condensed milk for the ice-cream
plant, 20. _Milk Powder_: Standards for milk powder, 21;
Powdered milk processes, 22; Merrell-Soule powdered milk, 23;
History of Merrell-Soule process, 24; Uses of Merrell-Soule
powder in ice-cream, 25; Ekenberg powdered milk, 26; Uses of
Ekenberg powder in ice-cream, 27; Butter, 28.

CHAPTER IV

SUGAR, CHOCOLATE PRODUCTS, FRUITS, STABILIZERS AND FILLERS 43-56

Sugar, 29; Invert sugar, 30; Sugar-saving substitutes, 31;
Cocoa and cocoa products, 32; Manufacture of chocolate and
cocoa, 33; Composition of cocoa products, 34; Adulteration of
cocoa and standards of purity, 35; Chocolate sirup, 36; Fruits,
37; Nuts, 38; Stabilizers and fillers, 39; Gelatine, 40;
Preparing gelatine for use in the ice-cream, 41; Gum
tragacanth, 42; Other substances used as binders, 43; Eggs, 44;
Starchy fillers, 45; Prepared ice-cream powders, 46; Rennet,
47.

CHAPTER V

FLAVORING EXTRACTS 57-68

_Vanilla Extract_: Nature of vanilla plant, 48; Curing vanilla
beans, 49; Marketing vanilla beans, 50; Production of vanilla
beans, 51; The ingredients of vanilla extract, 52; The
chemistry of vanilla, 53; Adulteration of vanilla extract, 54.
_Lemon Extract_: Preparation of lemon oil, 55; The chemistry of
lemon oil, 56; Orange extract, 57; Fruit extracts, 58.

CHAPTER VI

CLASSIFICATION 69-80

Classification of ice-cream, 59; Receipts for ice-cream, 60;
Vanilla ice-cream, 61; Chocolate ice-cream, 62; Caramel
ice-cream, 63; Coffee ice-cream, 64; Maple ice-cream, 65; Fruit
ice-cream, 66; Nut ice-cream, 67; Bisque ice-cream, 68; Mousse,
69; Cooked ice-cream, 70; Parfait, 71; Puddings, 72; Custards,
73; Ices and sherbets, 74; Ices, 75; Water sherbets, 76;
Punches, 77; Milk sherbets, 78; Lacto, 79.

CHAPTER VII

EQUIPMENT 81-100

Freezers, 80; Mixers, 81; Gelatine kettles, 82; Hardening the
ice-cream, 83; Packing-cans, 84; Ice crushers, 85; Ice-cream
can washers, 86; Emulsors, creamers, and homogenizers, 87; Cost
of equipment, 88.

CHAPTER VIII

REFRIGERATION AS APPLIED TO ICE-CREAM-MAKING 101-128

Terms used, 89. _Natural Ice_: The ice field, 90; The
ice-house, 91; Harvesting and storing, 92; Amount of ice
needed, 93; Use of ice and salt mixture, 94. _Mechanical
Refrigeration_: Principles of mechanical refrigeration, 95;
Materials used in mechanical refrigerating systems, 96;
Operation of refrigerating machines, 97; The compression
system, 98; Parts of a compression system, 99; Operation of
direct expansion compression system, 100; Location of
evaporating coils, 101; Notes on operating compression system,
102. _Absorption Systems_: Operation of absorption
refrigerating systems, 103; Arrangement of double pipe and
atmospheric absorption machines, 104.

CHAPTER IX

PREPARING THE MIX 129-133

Importance of preparing the mix, 105; Usual procedure in
preparing the mix, 106; Temperature of the mix, 107.

CHAPTER X

FREEZING PROCESS 134-144

Purpose of freezing, 108; Rate of freezing, 109; Proper method
of freezing, 110; Over-run or swell, 111; Condition of
ice-cream when removed from freezer, 112; Freezing sherbets and
ices, 113.

CHAPTER XI

HARDENING ICE-CREAM 145-162

Methods of hardening, 114; Hardening in ice and salt mixture,
115; The slush-box or brine-box method of hardening, 116; The
hardening-room, 117; The still-air type, 118; The gravity
air-type, 119; The forced-air type, 120; Defrosting the coils,
121; Time required for hardening, 122; Effects of hardening on
quality, 123; Fancy molded ice-cream, 124.

CHAPTER XII

JUDGING AND DEFECTS OF ICE-CREAM 163-169

Score-cards, 125; Explanation of characteristics mentioned in
score-card, 126; Defects in ice-cream, 127; Defects in flavor,
128; Defects in body and texture, 129; Defects in richness,
130; Defects in appearance, 131; Defects in package, 132.

CHAPTER XIII

BACTERIA IN RELATION TO ICE-CREAM 170-182

Sources of bacteria in ice-cream, 133; The effect of freezing
and hardening on the bacterial count, 134; Types of organisms
in ice-cream, 135; The total-acid groups, 136; The inert group,
137; The alkali group, 138; The peptonizing group, 139; Colon
Bacilli in ice-cream, 140; Difficulties in studying the
bacteriology of ice-cream, 141.