Chapter II: Preface

The first settlement in Australia was made in 1788; consequently the inhabitants of the great southern continent are this year celebrating their centennial. Three millions of people settled in five great colonies, possessing all the characteristics of an advanced civilization, with the unity developed by a common language and a common allegiance, and the rivalry that springs from the independence of each colony by itself, are uniting in the centennial celebration, and contrasting the Australia of to-day with that of one hundred years ago.

Previous to the discovery of gold in Australia, in 1851, Americans had but little knowledge of that far-away land. The opening of the auriferous fields attracted the attention of the whole civilized world to the antipodes, and many Americans joined the multitude that went thither in search of wealth. Since that time our relations with Australia have, year by year, grown more intimate. Railways across our continent and steamship lines over the broad Pacific have brought Sydney and Melbourne in juxtaposition to New York and San Francisco, and in this centennial Australian year we may almost regard the British colonies under the Southern Cross as our next-door neighbors.

The writer of this volume is not aware that any illustrated book descriptive of Australia and its neighboring colonies, New Zealand and Tasmania, by an American author, or from an American press, has ever yet appeared. Believing such a book desirable, he sent those youthful veterans of travel, Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson, over the route indicated on the title-page, with instructions to make careful note of what they saw and learned. Under the guidance of their mentor and our old friend Doctor Bronson they carried out their instructions to the letter, and the results of their observations will be found in the following pages. Trusting that the book will meet the favor that has been accorded to previous volumes of the "Boy Traveller" series, they offer their present work as their contribution to the Australian centennial, and hope that the boys and girls of their native land will find pleasure and profit in its perusal.

The method followed in the preparation of previous volumes of the series has been observed in the present book as far as it was possible to do so. The author's personal knowledge of the countries and people of Australasia has been supplemented by information drawn from many sources--from books, newspapers, maps, and other publications, and from numerous Australian gentlemen whom he has known or with whom he has been in correspondence. During the progress of the work he has kept a watchful eye on the current news from the antipodes, and sought to bring the account of the condition of the railways, telegraphs, and other constantly changing enterprises down to the latest dates.

Many of the books consulted in the preparation of "The Boy Travellers In Australasia" are named in the text, but circumstances made it inconvenient to refer to all. Among the volumes used are the following: Wallace's "Australasia," Forrest's "Explorations in Australia," Warburton's "Journey Across the Western Interior of Australia," Alexander's "Bush-fighting in the Maori War," Smyth's "Aborigines of Victoria," Bodham-Whetham's "Pearls of the Pacific," Murray's "Forty Years of Mission Work in Polynesia," Cumming's "At Home in Fiji," Markham's "Cruise of the _Rosario_," Palmer's "Kidnapping in the South Seas," Buller's "Forty Years in New Zealand," "Australian Pictures," Harcus's "South Australia," Eden's "Australia's Heroes," Trollope's "Australia and New Zealand," and Nordhoff's "Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands."

The publishers have kindly allowed the use of illustrations that have appeared in HARPER'S MAGAZINE and other of their publications, and these illustrations have admirably supplemented those that were specially prepared for the book. The maps on the front and rear covers were specially drawn from the best authorities, and are intended to embody the most recent explorations and the latest developments of the railway systems of the Australian colonies.

T. W. K.
NEW YORK, _July_, 1888.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU.--SIGHTS ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN.--A
PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR.--NEARING THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.--THE
MOLOKAI CHANNEL.--SURF-BEATEN SHORES OF OAHU.--ARRIVAL AT
HONOLULU.--A PICTURESQUE PORT.--DISCOVERY AND HISTORY OF THE
SANDWICH ISLANDS.--CAPTAIN COOK: HIS TRAGIC DEATH.--HOW THE
PEOPLE HAVE BEEN CIVILIZED.--WORK OF THE MISSIONARIES.--SCHOOLS
AND CHURCHES.--PRESENT CONDITION OF THE POPULATION.--OLD
CUSTOMS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN HONOLULU.--TARO AND POI.--A
NATIVE DINNER.--THE COSTUMES OF THE ISLANDERS.--PECULIARITIES
OF THE CLIMATE.--THE HULA-HULA AND OTHER DANCES. Page 1

CHAPTER II.

IN AND AROUND HONOLULU.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--THE THEATRE.--ROAD
TO THE PALI.--A MAGNIFICENT VIEW.--VILLAS NEAR THE CITY.--GIRLS
ON HORSEBACK.--TARO-FIELDS.--THE WATER SUPPLY.--MOUNTAIN-PASS.--
HAWAIIAN COW-BOYS.--HILO AND THE VOYAGE THITHER.--APOCRYPHAL
STORIES ABOUT THE RAIN.--SURF-SWIMMING.--THE GREAT VOLCANO OF
KILAUEA.--OVER THE LAVA-FIELDS.--DIFFICULT ROADS.--THE VOLCANO
HOUSE.--A DISTURBED NIGHT.--BURNING LAKES.--SIGHT-SEEING UNDER
DIFFICULTIES.--TERRIFYING SCENES.--KILAUEA AND MAUNA LOA.--THE
GREATEST VOLCANO IN THE WORLD.--HISTORIC ERUPTIONS.--CRATER OF
HALEAKALA.--SUGAR CULTURE IN HAWAII: ITS EXTENT AND INCREASE.--
OTHER INDUSTRIES.--RETURNING BY SCHOONER TO HONOLULU.--LEPER
ISLAND OF MOLOKAI.--A DAY AMONG THE LEPERS. 24

CHAPTER III.

SUDDEN CHANGE OF PLANS.--THE YACHT "PERA."--DEPARTURE FROM
HONOLULU.--VOYAGE TO THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS.--NOOKAHEEVA BAY.--
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE MARQUESAS.--WHAT OUR FRIENDS SAW
THERE.--TATTOOING AND HOW IT IS PERFORMED.--THE DAUGHTER OF A
CHIEF.--NATIVES AND THEIR PECULIARITIES.--COTTON AND OTHER
PLANTATIONS.--PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE ISLANDS.--VISITING A
PLANTATION AND A NATIVE VILLAGE.--MISSIONARIES AND THEIR
WORK.--THE TABU.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--PITCAIRN ISLAND AND THE
MUTINEERS OF THE "BOUNTY."--WONDERS OF EASTER ISLAND.--GIGANTIC
MONUMENTS OF AN UNKNOWN RACE. 47

CHAPTER IV.

FROM THE MARQUESAS TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.--THE GREAT BARRIER
REEF.--THE CORAL INSECT AND HIS WORK.--ATOLLS AND THEIR
PECULIARITIES.--ORIGIN OF THE POLYNESIAN PEOPLE.--ARRIVAL AT
PAPÉITI.--ON SHORE IN TAHITI.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS.--
WORK OF THE MISSIONARIES.--THE FRENCH OCCUPATION.--VICTIMS FOR
SACRIFICE.--OLD-TIME CUSTOMS.--PRODUCTS OF THE SOCIETY
ISLANDS.--BECHE-DE-MER FISHING.--VISIT TO THE REEF.--CURIOUS
THINGS SEEN THERE.--ADVENTURES WITH SHARKS, STINGAREES, AND
OTHER MONSTERS.--GIGANTIC CLAMS.--VISITING THE MARKET.--EATING
LIVE FISHES.--A NATIVE FEAST.--EXCURSION TO POINT VENUS. 74

CHAPTER V.

FROM THE SOCIETY TO THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.--BEFORE THE
TRADE-WINDS.--NOTES ABOUT THE MISSIONARIES.--OPPOSITION OF
TRADERS TO MISSIONARIES.--HOW POLYNESIA WAS CHRISTIANIZED.--THE
WORK OF THE MISSIONS.--REV. JOHN WILLIAMS.--ROMANTIC STORY OF
THE HERVEY GROUP.--THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY.--THE WESLEYAN
AND OTHER MISSIONS.--DEATH OF MR. WILLIAMS.--SANDAL-WOOD
TRADERS.--POLYNESIAN SLAVERY.--LABOR-VESSELS AND THE
LABOR-TRADE.--HOW NATIVES WERE KIDNAPPED.--"THE MISSIONARY
TRICK."--THE MUTINY ON THE "CARL."--CAPTURE OF THE "DAPHNE."--
HOW LABOR IS OBTAINED AT PRESENT. 99

CHAPTER VI.

THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.--APIA.--ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.--
BEACH-COMBERS.--HISTORY AND ADVENTURES OF SOME OF THEM.--
CHARLEY SAVAGE.--SAMOAN POLITICS.--ATTEMPT TO POISON
MISSIONARIES.--FRENCH CONVENT AND SCHOOLS.--COMMERCE WITH
SAMOA.--VISITING A NATIVE VILLAGE.--GAMES OF THE YOUNG
PEOPLE.--YOUTHS THROWING SPEARS.--MISSION COLLEGE AT MALUA.--
HOW THE STUDENTS LIVE.--PANGO-PANGO.--ADMIRAL WILKES'S
DESCRIPTION.--ATTENDING A SAMOAN PICNIC.--DIFFERENCES OF
TASTE.--MASSACRE BAY.--LA PÉROUSE.--HOW HIS FATE WAS
DISCOVERED.--THE SWORD-HILT AT TUCOPIA.--LOSS OF THE
"BOUSSOLE" AND "ASTROLABE."--VANIKORO ISLAND. 122

CHAPTER VII.

THE FEEJEE ISLANDS: THEIR EXTENT AND POPULATION.--TERRIBLE
FATALITY OF THE MEASLES.--ROTUMAH AND ITS PEOPLE.--KANDAVU
AND SUVA.--VITI LEVU.--SIGHTS OF THE CAPITAL.--PRODUCTIONS
AND COMMERCE OF FEEJEE.--GROWTH OF THE SUGAR TRADE.--THE LABOR
QUESTION.--OBSERVATIONS AMONG THE NATIVES.--FEEJEEAN
HAIR-DRESSING.--NATIVE PECULIARITIES.--CANNIBALISM: ITS EXTENT
AND SUPPRESSION.--HOW THE CHIEFS WERE SUPPLIED.--A WHOLE TRIBE
OF PEOPLE EATEN.--LEVUKA.--INTERVIEWS WITH MERCHANTS AND
PLANTERS.--THE BOLOLO FESTIVAL.--ANCIENT CUSTOMS. 147

CHAPTER VIII.

ATTENDING A NATIVE CHURCH.--A FEEJEEAN PREACHER.--DINNER WITH A
FEEJEEAN FAMILY.--THE SEASONS IN FEEJEE.--A TROPICAL SHOWER.--A
HURRICANE.--A PLANTER'S ADVENTURES.--SCENES OF DEVASTATION.--
THE CLIMATE OF THE FEEJEE ISLANDS.--WRECKED ON A REEF.--ESCAPING
FROM THE JAWS OF CANNIBALS.--A WALKING ART GALLERY.--A TATTOOED
WHITE MAN.--RETURNING TO SUVA.--THE FRIENDLY, OR TONGA,
ISLANDS.--TONGATABOO.--THE KING OF THE TONGAS: HOW HE LIVES.--A
REMARKABLE CAVERN AND A LOVE STORY ABOUT IT.--FROM FEEJEE TO
NEW ZEALAND.--HAURAKI GULF.--AUCKLAND.--A FINE SEAPORT AND ITS
COMMERCE.--HOW NEW ZEALAND WAS COLONIZED.--THE MAORIS.--CURIOUS
FACTS ABOUT A CURIOUS PEOPLE.--MISSIONARIES IN NEW ZEALAND.--
HOW THE MAORIS MAKE WAR. 173

CHAPTER IX.

THE SUBURBS OF AUCKLAND.--EXTINCT VOLCANOES.--MAORI
FORTIFICATIONS.--A KAURI FOREST.--KAURI LUMBER AND GUM.--HOW
THE GUM IS FORMED AND FOUND.--TREES OF NEW ZEALAND AND THEIR
VALUE.--FERNS AND THEIR VARIETY.--A PAKKHA MAORI: HIS
REMINISCENCES.--CURIOUS NATIVE CUSTOMS.--BUYING HEADS.--SALE
OF A LIVING MAN'S HEAD.--THE LAW OF MURU.--NEW ZEALAND
BIRDS.--THE GIGANTIC MOA, OR DINORNIS.--NATIVE WEDDINGS.--
KAWAU ISLAND.--SHARK-FISHING.--OYSTERS.--VISITING THE THAMES
GOLD-FIELDS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES.--GOLD-MINING IN NEW
ZEALAND.--POPULATION OF THE COLONY.--ENCOURAGEMENT TO
IMMIGRATION.--JOURNEY TO THE HOT LAKES.--CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND. 198

CHAPTER X.

THE HOT LAKE DISTRICT: ITS EXTENT AND PECULIARITIES.--
MEDICINAL SPRINGS.--ANALYSIS OF THE WATERS.--FRED'S NARROW
ESCAPE.--SCALDED TO DEATH IN A HOT POOL.--LAKE ROTOMAHANA.--
THE WHITE TERRACES: HOW THEY ARE FORMED.--THE PINK TERRACES.--
BOILING LAKES.--NATURE'S BATH-TUBS.--PETRIFIED BIRDS.--A
TABOOED MOUNTAIN.--THE TABU ON DUCKS.--NATIVE
DEMORALIZATION.--WAIROA.--DESTRUCTION OF THE TERRACES.--
TERRIBLE ERUPTION, WITH LOSS OR LIFE.--A VILLAGE THROWN INTO A
LAKE.--TAURANGA AND THE GATE PAH.--MAORI FORTIFICATIONS.--
SHORT HISTORY OF THE MAORI WAR: ITS CAUSES AND RESULTS.--FROM
TAURANGA TO NAPIER.--A PASTORAL COUNTRY.--ATTRACTIONS OF
NAPIER.--OVERLAND TO WELLINGTON.--FARMING AND HERDING
SCENES.--A CURIOUS ARTICLE OF COMMERCE. 222

CHAPTER XI.

ADVANTAGES OF WELLINGTON AS THE CAPITAL.--ITS INDUSTRIES AND
PROSPERITY.--A CITY OF EARTHQUAKES.--ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--
THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT: HOW THE COLONY IS RULED.--THE
COLONIAL PARLIAMENT.--MAORIS AS OFFICE-HOLDERS.--A WALK IN THE
BOTANICAL GARDENS.--DIVISION OF THE ISLANDS INTO COUNTIES AND
DISTRICTS.--NO CONNECTION BETWEEN CHURCH AND STATE.--RELATIVE
STRENGTH OF RELIGIOUS BODIES.--EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES.--THE
COLONIAL DEBT: ITS ENORMOUS FIGURES.--OVERLAND TO NEW
PLYMOUTH.--ALONG THE SEA-SHORE.--MAKING IRON FROM SEA-SAND.--
RIDING THROUGH THE BUSH.--NELSON AND PICTON.--THE WAIRAU
MASSACRE.--TO PORT LYTTELTON AND CHRISTCHURCH.--AN ENGLISH MODEL
COLONY.--THE CANTERBURY DISTRICT.--THE "SERVANT-GIRL" QUESTION. 246

CHAPTER XII.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CANTERBURY DISTRICT.--VISIT TO A
SHEEP-STATION.--HOW THE SHEEP-BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED.--THE
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE.--IRRIGATION IN NEW ZEALAND.--SHEEP LOST
IN SNOW-STORMS.--THE SHEEP-RAISER'S ENEMIES.--DESTRUCTION
CAUSED BY PARROTS.--THE RABBIT PEST.--HOW RABBITS ARE
EXTERMINATED.--VISIT TO A WHEAT-FARM.--WHEAT STATISTICS.--
IMPROVED MACHINERY.--THE SPARROW PEST.--TROUBLESOME EXOTICS.--
WATERCRESS, DAISIES, AND SWEETBRIER.--AN INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL.--
MOUNT COOK: FIRST ASCENT.--PERILOUS CLIMBING.--GLACIERS AND
LAKES.--THE SOUTHERN ALPS.--DUNEDIN.--OTAGO GOLD-FIELDS.--
INVERCARGILL.--LAKE WAKATIPU.--MINING AT QUEENSTOWN. 268

CHAPTER XIII.

FROM NEW ZEALAND TO AUSTRALIA.--ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY.--HOW THE
CITY WAS FOUNDED.--ITS APPEARANCE TO-DAY.--THE PRINCIPAL
STREETS, PARKS, AND SUBURBS.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--SHOOTING
SYDNEY DUCKS.--THE TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM.--HOW AUSTRALIA WAS
COLONIZED.--LIFE AND TREATMENT OF CONVICTS IN AUSTRALIA.--THE
END OF TRANSPORTATION.--POPULAR ERRORS OF INVOLUNTARY
EMIGRANTS.--THE PAPER COMPASS.--TICKET-OF-LEAVE MEN.--
EMANCIPISTS AND THEIR STATUS.--SYDNEY HARBOR.--STEAM LINES TO
ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD.--CIRCULAR QUAY.--DRY-DOCKS.--EXCURSIONS
TO PARAMATTA AND BOTANY BAY.--HOSPITALITIES OF SYDNEY. 293

CHAPTER XIV.

FROM SYDNEY TO BRISBANE.--POLITICAL DIVISIONS OF AUSTRALIA.--
ORDER IN WHICH THE COLONIES WERE FOUNDED.--EXPLORATIONS AND
THEIR EXTENT.--DOCTOR BASS AND CAPTAIN FLINDERS.--ABSENCE OF
WATER IN THE INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA.--A COUNTRY OF STRANGE
CHARACTERISTICS.--NATURE'S REVERSES.--HOW THE COLONIES ARE
GOVERNED.--RELIGION AND EDUCATION.--JEALOUSY OF THE COLONIES
TOWARDS EACH OTHER.--NEWCASTLE AND ITS COAL.--RAILWAY
TRAVELLING IN NEW SOUTH WALES.--TENTERFIELD AND STANTHORPE.--
COBB'S COACHES.--AUSTRALIAN SCENERY.--THE EUCALYPTUS, OR
GUM-TREE, THE TALLEST TREES IN THE WORLD.--SILVER STEMS AND
MALLKE SCRUB.--BRISBANE.--RELICS OF THE CONVICT SYSTEM.--QUEEN
STREET AND THE BOTANICAL GARDENS. 317

CHAPTER XV.

LEAVING BRISBANE.--THE REGIONS AROUND THE CITY.--QUEENSLAND
SCRUB AND FOREST LAND.--FRUITS AND GARDEN PRODUCE.--TROUBLES
OF THE EARLY SETTLERS.--IPSWICH AND ITS COAL-MINES.--
WINE-MAKING IN AUSTRALIA.--CHARACTER OF AUSTRALIAN WINES.--
THE LABOR QUESTION.--POLYNESIAN AND CHINESE LABORERS.--
POPULATION OF QUEENSLAND.--NATIVES AND ABORIGINES.--
PECULIARITIES OF THE BLACK RACE.--CATTLE TRACKERS AND THEIR
ABILITIES.--HOW THE ABORIGINALS LIVE: THEIR HOMES, WEAPONS,
AND MODE OF LIFE.--AUSTRALIAN MYTHS AND SUPERSTITIONS.--
CURIOUS THEORIES OF RESURRECTION.--SMOKE AND FIRE SIGNALS.--
HOW A WANDERING WHITE MAN SAVED HIS LIFE.--RELIGIOUS IDEAS.--
HOW THE EEL MADE THE FROG LAUGH.--THE BUN-YIP AND HIS
WONDERFUL ATTRIBUTES. 388

CHAPTER XVI.

RIDING THROUGH THE BUSH.--AUSTRALIAN HOSPITALITY.--ARRIVAL AT
THE STATION.--THE BUILDINGS AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS.--A SNAKE
IN FRED'S BED.--SNAKES IN AUSTRALIA.--UNDERWOOD'S REMEDY FOR
SNAKE-BITES, AND WHAT CAME OF IT.--CENTIPEDES AND SCORPIONS.--A
VENOMOUS SPIDER.--NOCTURNAL NOISES AT A CATTLE-STATION.--HORSES
AND THEIR TRAITS.--BUCK-JUMPING AND ROUGH-RIDING.--HOW A "NEW
CHUM" CATCHES A HORSE.--ENDURANCE OF HORSES.--AMONG THE HERDS
OF CATTLE.--RIDE TO A CATTLE-CAMP.--DAILY LIFE OF THE
STOCK-MEN.--CASTE IN AUSTRALIA.--SQUATTERS AND FREE
SELECTORS.--HORRIBLE ACCIDENTS IN THE BUSH.--A MAN EATEN ALIVE
BY ANTS.--BURNED TO DEATH UNDER A FALLEN TREE.--CHASING AN
EMU.--ROUSING A FLOCK OF WILD TURKEYS. 359

CHAPTER XVII.

CATTLE AND SHEEP RAISING IN QUEENSLAND.--GRASS THAT KILLS
SHEEP.--PROFITS OF RAISING CATTLE.--RELATIVE ADVANTAGES OF THE
TWO ENTERPRISES.--INCREASE OF FLOCKS AND HERDS.--STATISTICS.--
LIVE-STOCK IN QUEENSLAND.--VISITING A SHEEP-STATION.--DUTIES OF
A GOOD SHEPHERD.--INSANE TENDENCIES OF SHEPHERDS.--MONOTONY OF
THEIR LIVES.--DISAGREEABLE WORK FOR NOVICES.--SHEEP-SHEARING,
AND HOW IT IS PERFORMED.--PACKING AND SHIPPING WOOL.--AMUSING
STORY OF A STOLEN HORSE.--THE MINER WHO HID HIS GOLD IN A
HORSE-COLLAR.--BUSH-RANGERS AND THEIR PERFORMANCES.--"STICKING
UP."--"OLIVER, THE TERROR OF THE NORTH."--HELD BY A WOODEN
LEG.--TRICK OF A DISHONEST GENIUS.--PEARL-FISHING IN AUSTRALIAN
WATERS: HOW THE BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED.--ALLIGATORS.--THE
"CARDWELL PET."--SUNDOWNERS. 382

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE PLAGUE OF FLIES IN AUSTRALIA.--OTHER CREEPING AND FLYING
THINGS.--LAUGHING-JACKASSES, BOWER-BIRDS, LYRE-BIRDS, PARROTS,
ETC.--TRICKS OF THE LYRE-BIRD.--ORIGIN OF THE BOWER-BIRD'S
NAME.--BLACK SWANS AND WILD-DUCKS.--SNIPE, QUAIL, AND OTHER
BIRDS.--AUSTRALIAN RIVERS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES.--RETURN TO
THE COAST.--GYMPIE AND THE GOLD-MINES OF QUEENSLAND.--AN
AUSTRALIAN GOLD RUSH.--DOWN THE COAST TO SYDNEY.--THE GREAT
BARRIER REEF: ITS EXTENT AND PECULIARITIES.--SPORT IN NORTHERN
QUEENSLAND.--GOING UP-COUNTRY IN NEW SOUTH WALES.--A KANGAROO
HUNT.--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A HUNT AND A DRIVE.--AUSTRALIAN
MARSUPIALS.--SHOOTING WILD HORSES.--KILLING AN "OLD MAN"
KANGAROO.--DINGOES.--STORIES OF KANGAROO HUNTS. 407

CHAPTER XIX.

A NATIVE ENCAMPMENT AND A CORROBOREE.--RIDING ACROSS-COUNTRY.--
AMONG THE BLACKS.--NATIVE DANCES.--A WEIRD SCENE.--ABORIGINAL
MUSIC.--STORIES ABOUT CORROBOREES.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--HOW THE
BLACK MEN OBTAIN THEIR WIVES.--TESTING THE STOICISM OF
YOUTHS.--AN ALARM AT NIGHT.--RETURN TO SYDNEY.--A
BRICKFIELDER.--HOT WINDS FROM THE DESERT.--HOW A PICNIC WAS
BROKEN UP.--OVER THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.--RAILWAYS IN NEW SOUTH
WALES.--SALUBRITY OF THE MOUNTAIN CLIMATE.--GOULBURN.--
THEATRICAL GOSSIP.--FIRST THEATRE IN AUSTRALIA.--A CONVICT'S
PROLOGUE.--THE DRAMA UNDER DISADVANTAGES.--THE RIVERINA.--
ALBURY AND THE VICTORIAN FRONTIER.--PROTECTION AND
FREE-TRADE.--FISHING IN THE MURRAY RIVER.--AUSTRALIAN
FISHES.--FROM ALBURY TO MELBOURNE. 429

CHAPTER XX.

THE FOUNDING OF MELBOURNE.--BATMAN AND FAWKNER.--GROWTH OF
MELBOURNE, CHICAGO, AND SAN FRANCISCO COMPARED.--SIGHTS AND
SCENES IN THE AUSTRALIAN METROPOLIS.--COLLINS STREET, BOURKE
STREET, AND OTHER THOROUGHFARES.--A GENERAL DESCRIPTION.--THE
YARRA RIVER.--BOTANICAL GARDENS.--DINING AT A SUBURBAN
RESIDENCE.--THE SUBURBS OF MELBOURNE.--HOW ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS
BECAME ONE MILLION IN FIFTY YEARS.--SANDRIDGE (PORT
MELBOURNE).--SCENES IN THE HARBOR.--REMINISCENCES OF THE GOLD
RUSH OF 1851.--BUSH-RANGERS AND THEIR PERFORMANCES.--PLUNDERING
A SHIP IN PORT.--HOBSON'S BAY AND PORT PHILLIP BAY.--
WILLIAMSTOWN AND ST. KILDA.--SHARK FENCES.--QUEENSCLIFF.--
CURIOUS ROCKS ON THE COAST.--GEELONG.--MELBOURNE NEWSPAPERS. 452

CHAPTER XXI.

THE RACE FOR THE MELBOURNE CUP.--POPULARITY OF HORSE-RACING IN
AUSTRALIA.--CRICKET AND OTHER SPORTS.--SUMMER RETREATS AMONG
THE MOUNTAINS OVERLOOKING MELBOURNE.--"A SOUTHERLY BURSTER:"
ITS PECULIARITIES.--RAPID FALL OF THE THERMOMETER.--FLOODING
THE STREETS OF MELBOURNE.--CHILDREN DROWNED IN THE GUTTERS.--
BALLARAT AND THE GOLD-MINES.--HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD
IN AUSTRALIA.--THE RUSH TO BALLARAT AND BENDIGO.--SANDHURST:
ITS PRESENT APPEARANCE.--REMARKABLE YIELD OF THE BALLARAT
MINES.--"THE WELCOME NUGGET."--WESTERN DISTRICT OF VICTORIA.--
LAKE SCENERY.--AUSTRALIA'S POTATO-FIELD.--GIPPSLAND.--FROM
MELBOURNE TO TASMANIA.--LAUNCESTON.--A CHAPTER OF TASMANIAN
HISTORY.--MEMORIES OF CONVICT DAYS.--CORRA LINN AND OTHER
SHOW-PLACES. 474

CHAPTER XXII.

EXCURSION TO DELORAINE.--THE CHUDLEIGH CAVES.--FROM LAUNCESTON
TO HOBART.--ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS.--THE OLD WAGON-ROAD BUILT BY
CONVICTS.--DEATH OF THE LAST TASMANIAN.--HOW THE ABORIGINES
WERE DESTROYED.--A WONDERFUL TIN-MINE.--HOBART: ITS CLIMATE AND
ATTRACTIONS.--LOVELINESS OF TASMANIAN LADIES.--PORT ARTHUR.--
DOGS AT THE NECK.--FROM HOBART TO ADELAIDE.--ARRIVAL IN SOUTH
AUSTRALIA.--ADELAIDE: ITS PRINCIPAL FEATURES.--A RIVER THAT IS
NOT A RIVER.--CHURCHES AND RELIGIONS.--POPULATION OF THE CAPITAL
AND COLONY.--EXTENSIVE WHEAT-FARMS.--PRODUCTS OF SOUTH
AUSTRALIA.--FRUIT-GROWING.--GLENELG.--THE HISTORIC GUM-TREE.--
PARKS AND GARDENS.--OVERLAND TO PORT DARWIN.--HOW THE TELEGRAPH
WAS BUILT.--EXPLORATIONS OF STURT AND STUART.--CAMELS IN
AUSTRALIA.--A SIDE-SADDLE CAMEL.--AN AFFECTING INCIDENT.--THE
OVERLAND RAILWAY. 497