Chapter II: Preface

Until within the past few years, Mexico was a country not easily reached from the principal cities of the United States, and our relations with it were by no means intimate. Since the completion of the railway from the frontier of Texas to the heart of the most northerly of the Spanish-American republics, there has been a rapid development of commercial and social relations between Mexico and the United States, and the tide of travel from one country to the other is steadily increasing year by year. These circumstances have led the author of "The Boy Travellers" to believe that his young friends everywhere would welcome a book describing the land of the Aztecs, its history and resources, the manners and customs of its people, and the many curious things to be seen, and adventures passed through, in a journey from one end of that country to the other.

In this belief he sought the aid of his and their friends, Frank and Fred, immediately after their return from Australasia. Ever ready to be of service, the youths assented to his request to make a tour of the Mexican republic, in company with their guide and mentor, Doctor Bronson, and the result of their journey is set forth in the following pages. It is confidently hoped that the narrative will be found in every particular fully equal to any of its predecessors in the series to which it belongs.

The methods on which the Boy Travellers have hitherto performed their work have been adhered to in the present volume. In addition to his personal acquaintance with Mexico and travels in that country, the author has drawn upon the observations of those who have preceded and followed him there. He has consulted books of history, travel, and statistics in great number, has sought the best and most accurate maps, and while his work was in progress he consulted many persons familiar with Mexico, and was in frequent correspondence with gentlemen now residing there. He has sought to bring the social, political, and commercial history of the country down to the latest date, and to present a truthful picture of the present status of our sister republic. The result of his efforts he submits herewith to the judgment of his readers.

Many of the works that have been consulted are named in the text, but it has not been convenient to refer to all. Among those to which the author is indebted may be mentioned the following: Bishop's "Old Mexico and her Lost Provinces," Griffin's "Mexico of To-day," Haven's "Our Next-door Neighbor," Charnay's "Ancient Cities of the New World," Squier's "Nicaragua" and "Central America," Wells's "Honduras," Stephens's "Travels in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan," Baldwin's "Ancient America," Wilson's "Mexico and its Religions," Abbott's "Hernando Cortez," Prescott's "Conquest of Mexico," Ober's "Travels in Mexico," Geiger's "Peep at Mexico," Gooch's "Face to Face with the Mexicans," Chevalier's "Mexique Ancien et Moderne," and the hand-books of Janvier, Conkling, and Hamilton.

As in the other "Boy Traveller" volumes, the author is indebted to the liberality of his publishers, Messrs. Harper & Brothers, for the use of engravings that have appeared in previous publications relative to Mexico and Central America, in addition to those specially prepared for this book. As a result of their generosity, he has been enabled to add greatly to the interest of the work, particularly to the younger portion of his readers, for whom illustrations always have an especial charm.

T. W. K.
NEW YORK, _June_, 1889.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.--PLANS FOR THE JOURNEY.--TO
MEXICO BY RAIL.--BAGGAGE, AND BOOKS ON THE COUNTRY.--BRUSHING
UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF SPANISH.--WESTWARD FROM NEW YORK.--A
HALT AT ST. LOUIS.--SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.--VISIT TO THE
ALAMO.--REMINISCENCES OF THE FALL OF THE ALAMO.--BATTLE OF
SAN JACINTO AND INDEPENDENCE OF TEXAS.--NOTES ON THE RAILWAYS
OF NORTHERN MEXICO.--OLD TEXAS AND MODERN
CHANGES.--"G. T. T."--PRESENT WEALTH OF THE STATE.--ARRIVAL
ON THE FRONTIER OF MEXICO. Page 1

CHAPTER II.

HOTELS ON THE FRONTIER.--ACCOMMODATIONS AT LAREDO.--SMUGGLING
OVER THE BORDER.--LAREDO AS A RAILWAY CENTRE.--THE RIO GRANDE
AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--RIVERS BENEATH THE SANDS.--ENTERING
MEXICAN TERRITORY.--EXAMINATIONS AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.--MEXICAN
TARIFFS.--BRIBERY AMONG OFFICIALS.--LEAVING NUEVO LAREDO.--A
DREARY PLAIN.--FELLOW-PASSENGERS WITH OUR FRIENDS.--A MEXICAN
IRISHMAN.--PEOPLE AT THE STATIONS.--ADOBE HOUSES; HOW THEY ARE
MADE.--THE LAND OF MAÑANA.--POCO TIEMPO AND QUIEN
SABE.--LAMPASAS.--MESA DE LOS CARTUJANOS.--PRODUCTS OF NUEVO
LEON.--SADDLE AND MITRE MOUNTAINS.--MONTEREY. 15

CHAPTER III.

THE AMERICAN INVASION OF TO-DAY.--MONTEREY AS A HEALTH RESORT;
ITS SITE AND SURROUNDINGS.--THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER PUBLIC
BUILDINGS.--CAPTURE OF MONTEREY BY GENERAL TAYLOR.--SHORT
HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR.--FROM CORPUS CHRISTI TO
MONTEREY.--THE ATTACK ON THE CITY.--CAPTURE OF THE FORTS AND
THE BISHOP'S PALACE.--FRANK RECITES A POEM.--LIEUT. U. S.
GRANT AND WHAT HE DID AT MONTEREY.--A STORY ABOUT JEFFERSON
DAVIS.--HOW JOHN PHENIX ESCAPED CASHIERING.--SIGHTS OF THE
CITY.--THE MARKET-PLACE AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--FRUITS,
BIRDS, POTTERY, ETC.--IN A MONTEREY HOUSE.--A PALATIAL
RESIDENCE. 31

CHAPTER IV.

SOUTHWARD TO SALTILLO.--SANTA CATERINA.--REMARKABLE
CAVES.--SCENERY OF THE SIERRA MADRE.--WAY-SIDE ATTRACTIONS.--THE
CACTUS; ITS FLOWERS AND MANY VARIETIES.--SALTILLO.--THE
ALAMEDA.--MEXICAN CURRENCY.--THE BATTLE-FIELD OF BUENA VISTA.--BY
CARRIAGE AND SADDLE.--A NIGHT AT A HACIENDA.--MEXICAN
COOKERY.--TORTILLAS, PUCHERO, FRIJOLES, TAMALES, AND OTHER
EDIBLES.--HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR FROM MONTEREY TO BUENA
VISTA.--5000 AMERICANS DEFEAT 20,000 MEXICANS.--DESCRIPTION OF
THE FIELD.--COTTON FACTORY AT SALTILLO.--COTTON MANUFACTURES
IN MEXICO. 48

CHAPTER V.

FROM SALTILLO TO JARAL.--A JOURNEY BY DILIGENCE.--PECULIARITIES
OF DILIGENCE TRAVEL.--BRIGANDAGE; HOW THE GOVERNMENT SUPPRESSED
IT.--ROBBERS TURNED INTO SOLDIERS.--STORIES OF BRIGANDS AND
THEIR WORK; THEIR TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.--A CASE OF
POLITENESS.--DINNER AT A WAY-SIDE INN.--CHILE CON
CARNE.--DESCRIPTION OF CHIHUAHUA.--THE SANTA EULALIA MINES;
ROMANTIC STORY OF THEIR DISCOVERY.--TORREON AND LERDO.--COTTON
IN TRANSIT.--STATISTICS OF COTTON IN MEXICO.--FRESNILLO.--
CALERA.--A BAD BREAKFAST.--ARRIVAL AT ZACATECAS.--LODGED IN AN
OLD CONVENT. 66

CHAPTER VI.

NAME, POPULATION, AND PECULIARITIES OF ZACATECAS.--THE
PILGRIMAGE CHAPEL.--A WEALTHY CATHEDRAL.--STREET SCENES.--MINES
OF ZACATECAS.--A DANGEROUS DESCENT.--THE PATIO PROCESS OF
REDUCING ORES.--TREADING ORE WITH MULES AND HORSES.--A SORRY
SIGHT.--THE MINERS; HOW THEY LIVE AND WORK.--STATISTICS OF
SILVER-MINING IN MEXICO.--ASTOUNDING CALCULATIONS.--FROM
ZACATECAS TO AGUAS CALIENTES.--FARM SCENES.--FARMING IN
MEXICO.--CONDITION OF LABORERS.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--AGUAS
CALIENTES.--A BEAUTIFUL CITY.--A PICTURESQUE POPULATION.--WOMEN
OF MEXICO. 85

CHAPTER VII.

SOUTHWARD AGAIN.--CROSSING A BARRANCA.--BARRANCAS IN
MEXICO.--LAGOS AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--LEON, THE MANUFACTURING
CITY OF MEXICO.--SILAO.--ARRIVAL AT GUANAJUATO.--A SILVER
CITY.--THE VALENCIANO MINE.--AN UNHEALTHY PLACE.--BAD
DRAINAGE.--A SYSTEM OF RESERVOIRS.--THE CASTILLO DEL
GRENADITAS.--AN INDIAN'S ARMOR.--EXPERT THIEVES.--STEALING A
GRINDSTONE.--MARKET SCENES.--HEADS OF SHEEP AND GOATS.--SCHOOLS
AT GUANAJUATO.--EDUCATION IN MEXICO.--DOWN IN THE RAYAS
MINE.--SIGHTS UNDERGROUND.--AN INDIAN WATER-CARRIER.--HOW A SKIN
IS TAKEN WHOLE FROM A PIG.--THE REDUCTION HACIENDA.--MR.
PARKMAN'S MACHINE.--QUERETARO.--THE HERCULES AND OTHER
COTTON-MILLS. 102

CHAPTER VIII.

AQUEDUCT AT QUERETARO.--THE RESULT OF A BANTER.--THE HILL OF
THE BELLS.--PLACE WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS SHOT.--REVOLUTIONS IN
MEXICO.--FOREIGN INTERVENTION.--MAXIMILIAN BECOMES
EMPEROR.--THE "BLACK DECREE."--WITHDRAWAL OF FRENCH TROOPS
FROM MEXICO.--MAXIMILIAN'S DEFEAT, CAPTURE, AND DEATH.--HOW A
FRENCH NEWSPAPER CIRCUMVENTED THE LAWS.--PRONUNCIAMENTOS.--
JUAREZ AS PRESIDENT.--THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN OF MEXICO.--A
WONDERFUL PROPHECY.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF JUAREZ.--RELIGION
IN MEXICO.--FORMER POWER OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.--THE LAWS OF
THE REFORM.--PROTESTANT CHURCHES AND PROTESTANT WORK.--MISSIONARY
MARTYRS.--MURDER OF REV. J. L. STEPHENS.--RELIGIOUS AFFAIRS AT
PRESENT. 116

CHAPTER IX.

FROM QUERETARO TO THE CAPITAL.--PLAIN OF THE CAZADERO.--
TULA.--THE GREAT SPANISH DRAINAGE-CUT.--DISASTROUS INUNDATIONS
OF MEXICO CITY.--A PUZZLE FOR ENGINEERS.--ARRIVAL AT THE
CAPITAL.--HOTEL LIFE.--RESTAURANTS AND THE MODE OF LIVING.--
AMUSING STORIES OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT.--FONDAS AND FONDITAS.--
MEN FOR CHAMBER-MAIDS.--ALMUERZO.--A MORNING STROLL ALONG THE
STREETS.--WOMEN ON THEIR WAY TO MASS.--THE MANTILLA.--SELLERS
OF SACRED THINGS.--DEALERS IN LOTTERY TICKETS.--LOTTERIES RUN
BY GOVERNMENT.--ATTENDING A DRAWING.--HOW THE AFFAIR WAS
CONDUCTED.--FLOWER-SELLERS. 132

CHAPTER X.

THE CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO.--SITE OF THE AZTEC TEOCALLI.--HUMAN
SACRIFICES.--PANORAMA OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.--EXTENT AND
COST OF THE CATHEDRAL; CHAPELS AND ALTARS.--TOMB OF
ITURBIDE.--THE CAREER AND TRAGIC END OF ITURBIDE.--THE RICHEST
ALTAR IN THE WORLD.--GOLDEN CANDLESTICKS A MAN COULD NOT
LIFT.--THE AZTEC CALENDAR-STONE; ITS INTERESTING FEATURES;
INSCRIPTION ON THE STONE.--BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE AZTECS.--THE
TRIBE CALLED MEXICANS.--AZTEC LAWS AND CUSTOMS.--PREVALENCE OF
THE DEATH PENALTY.--AZTEC POSTING SYSTEM.--PICTURE-WRITING.--
FLOWER-SHOW IN THE ZOCALO.--A FASHIONABLE ASSEMBLAGE.--WONDERFUL
WORK IN FEATHERS. 147

CHAPTER XI.

LOST ARTS IN MEXICO.--GOLDSMITHS' WORK IN THE TIME OF
CORTEZ.--SILVER FILIGREE.--MODELLING IN WAX AND CLAY.--NATIVE
TASTE FOR MUSIC.--NATIONAL CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC.--MUSEUM
OF ANTIQUITIES.--THE SACRIFICIAL STONE.--SACRIFICES AMONG THE
ANCIENT MEXICANS.--GLADIATORIAL STONE.--A BRAVE SOLDIER.--
OBSIDIAN KNIVES AND RAZORS.--AZTEC METALLURGY.--STATUE OF THE
GOD OF WAR.--SHIELD AND CLOAK OF MONTEZUMA.--AZTEC WARFARE AND
DOMESTIC LIFE.--RELICS OF HIDALGO AND MAXIMILIAN.--MAX'S STATE
COACH.--NATIONAL PALACE.--HALL OF THE AMBASSADORS.--MEXICAN
PAINTINGS.--THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.--AN EXTENSIVE PAWN-SHOP.--
LOCKING UP MEN AS SECURITY.--FORMALITIES OF THE SALESROOM. 163

CHAPTER XII.

MEXICAN POLITENESS.--FREE GIFTS OF HOUSES AND OTHER
PROPERTY.--AWKWARD MISTAKES.--AN ENGLISHWOMAN'S DILEMMA, AND
HOW SHE GOT OUT OF IT.--UNCLE FREDDY AND THE GOVERNOR OF
ACAPULCO.--THE GREAT MARKET; SIGHTS AND SCENES THERE.--ON THE
CANAL.--EXTENSIVE LOCAL COMMERCE.--THE CHINAMPAS, OR FLOATING
GARDENS.--AN EXCURSION ON THE LAKES.--SANTA ANITA, A PLACE OF
RECREATION.--EXPERTS IN DIVING.--THE HILL OF ESTRELLA.--THE
FESTIVAL OF FIRE; PRESCOTT'S DESCRIPTION OF THE FEARFUL
CEREMONY.--FISHING IN THE LAKES.--THE AXOLOTL.--FISH OR
REPTILE?--FLIES' EGGS AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. 179

CHAPTER XIII.

COURTSHIP IN MEXICO.--"PLAYING THE BEAR."--LOVERS' TROUBLES.--A
SHORT ROAD TO MATRIMONY.--PRESENTS TO THE EXPECTANT BRIDE.--THE
MARRIAGE CEREMONY.--TEDIOUS PRELIMINARIES.--CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS
MARRIAGES.--DIFFERENCES OF MARRIAGE AMONG THE COMMON PEOPLE AND
THE UPPER CLASSES.--A HAND-BOOK FOR LOVERS.--FUNERALS; HOW THEY
ARE MANAGED.--CARDS OF CONDOLENCE.--CEMETERIES.--MONUMENT TO
AMERICAN SOLDIERS.--ANNUAL DEATH-RATE IN MEXICO CITY.--PREVALENT
DISEASES.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS; THEIR NUMBER, WAGES, AND MODE OF
LIFE.--A PECULIAR LAUNDRY SYSTEM. 198

CHAPTER XIV.

SCULPTURE AND PAINTING IN MEXICO.--NATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE
FINE ARTS.--BRIEF HISTORY OF MEXICAN ART.--CELEBRATED
PAINTINGS.--"LAS CASAS PROTECTING THE AZTECS."--"THE DEATH
OF ATALA."--HOW AN ARTIST MANAGED TO SELL A PICTURE.--FROM
ART TO PULQUERIAS.--THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF MEXICO.--THE
MAGUEY PLANT.--HOW PULQUE IS MADE.--COLLECTING THE SAP.--
FERMENTING AGUAMIEL.--DAILY CONSUMPTION OF PULQUE IN THE CITY
OF MEXICO.--MANAGEMENT OF THE SHOPS.--ROMANTIC HISTORY OF THE
INVENTION OF PULQUE.--MEXICAN POLICE-COURTS.--NOVEL MODE OF
TRYING CASES.--THE BELEM PRISON.--CATALOGUE OF OFFENCES AGAINST
THE LAW.--AN ADROIT THIEF.--RUNNING THE GANTLET. 212

CHAPTER XV.

THE PASEO DE LA REFORMA.--BRIGANDAGE NEAR THE CITY.--STATUE
OF CHARLES IV. OF SPAIN.--STATUE OF COLUMBUS.--A RELIC OF
MAXIMILIAN.--AQUEDUCTS FROM CHAPULTEPEC.--MONTEZUMA'S
TREE.--CHAPULTEPEC; ITS HEIGHT AND EXTENT.--MONTEZUMA'S
BATH.--THE PALACE.--"THE FEAST OF BELSHAZZAR."--NATIONAL
MILITARY COLLEGE.--MOLINO DEL REY.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ADVANCE
UPON MEXICO.--CAPTURE OF VERA CRUZ.--BATTLE OF CERRO
GORDO.--ENTERING THE VALLEY.--CONTRERAS AND CHURUBUSCO.--
FALL OF CHAPULTEPEC.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ENTRANCE INTO THE
CITY.--TREATY OF PEACE.--GENERAL GRANT ON THE MEXICAN WAR. 229

CHAPTER XVI.

THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF
MEXICO.--DEPARTURE OF CORTEZ FROM CUBA.--HE LANDS IN
YUCATAN.--FOUNDING THE CITY OF VERA CRUZ.--DEFEATING THE
TLASCALANS.--ENTRANCE TO TENOCHTITLAN.--RECEPTION BY
MONTEZUMA.--RETURN TO THE COAST.--EXPULSION OF THE
SPANIARDS.--BESIEGING THE CITY WITH THE AID OF THE
TLASCALANS.--CAPTURE OF THE CITY, AND DEATH OF GUATEMOZIN.--
BEGINNING OF THE RULE OF THE VICEROYS.--THE CHURCH OF
GUADALUPE.--STORY OF THE MIRACULOUS APPARITION.--RELIGIOUS
AND POLITICAL HOLIDAY.--PILGRIMAGE TO GUADALUPE.--PENITENTES;
THEIR SELF-INFLICTED TORTURES. 248

CHAPTER XVII.

AREA AND INHABITANTS OF MEXICO.--CHARACTER OF THE
POPULATION.--INDIANS, EUROPEANS, AND MESTIZOS; THEIR
RESPECTIVE NUMBERS AND CHARACTERISTICS.--INCLINATIONS
OF THE MIXED RACES.--TENDENCIES OF EDUCATED INDIANS.--
PRESIDENT JUAREZ AS AN EXAMPLE.--HOW THE INDIANS LIVE.--
HOW THE SPANIARDS TOOK POSSESSION OF THE LAND.--CREOLES AND
THEIR ORIGIN.--THE MESTIZOS.--LEPEROS AND THEIR CHARACTER.--
ADROIT THIEVES.--PAWNING A CHURCH ORGAN.--THE LEPEROS AND THE
BRIGANDS.--CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGO.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE
INQUISITION IN MEXICO.--THE AUTO-DA-FÉ. 264

CHAPTER XVIII.

ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL.--"THE WHITE WOMAN."--GEOGRAPHICAL
POSITION OF THE VOLCANO.--FIRST ASCENT BY WHITE MEN.--
AMECAMECA.--HIRING HORSES AND BUYING PROVISIONS.--EQUIPMENT
FOR THE EXCURSION.--DANGER OF ROBBERS.--PEONS AND VOLCANEROS.--
FIELDS OF BARLEY AND FORESTS OF PINE.--AN INDIAN TRADITION.--
FATE OF THE GIANT AND GIANTESS.--ICE FROM POPOCATEPETL FOR THE
CITY OF MEXICO.--SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER.--SLEEPING AT
TLAMACAS.--ARRIVAL AT LA CRUZ.--THE ASCENT ON FOOT.--
DIFFICULTIES OF CLIMBING IN THE RAREFIED AIR.--THE PICO DEL
FRAILE.--CAUGHT IN A CLOUD. 279

CHAPTER XIX.

THE ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL CONTINUED.--LAST STEPS OF THE
UPWARD JOURNEY.--LOSS OF LIFE ON THE MOUNTAIN.--HOW THREE
INDIANS PERISHED.--THE CRATER OF THE VOLCANO.--HOW THE
SULPHUR-MINERS EXIST.--DANGERS OF THE CRATER.--THE
SOLFATARAS.--CAUGHT IN A STORM.--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--
SCENES IN THE CRATER.--A RAPID DESCENT.--TOBOGGANING ON A
GRAND SCALE.--HOW THE SULPHUR-MINE ORIGINATED.--NO ERUPTION
IN SEVEN THOUSAND YEARS.--RETURN TO AMECAMECA.--EXPLORATION
OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--TOMBS AND THEIR CONTENTS.--
CURIOUS INSTANCE OF PRESERVATION.--MONTE SACRO.--"MODERN
ANTIQUITIES."--INDIANS WORSHIPPING THE VOLCANO.--EXPERIENCE
WITH A RATERO. 296

CHAPTER XX.

RAPACIOUS CARGADORES.--OLD BOOK-STORES IN THE PORTALES.--
PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL; THE PUPILS IN
ATTENDANCE.--THEATRES AND HOSPITALS.--A THEATRE SUPPORTING A
HOSPITAL.--THE BROTHERS OF CHARITY.--INSIDE THE THEATRES.--A
PERFORMANCE OF OPERA.--A MINOR THEATRE.--LISTENING TO A
MEXICAN PERFORMANCE.--BULL-FIGHTING IN MEXICO.--A
DISGRACEFUL SPORT.--ORIGIN OF THE BULL-FIGHT.--MARIONETTE
THEATRES.--THE PROCESSIONS.--MEXICAN LOVE FOR COCK-FIGHTING.--
COMMINGLING OF RELIGIOUS CEREMONIALS AND AMUSEMENTS.--THE
POSADA AND THE PASTORELA; THEIR PECULIARITIES.--KILLING JUDAS. 312

CHAPTER XXI.

EXCURSION TO TULA.--AN ANCIENT CITY OF THE TOLTECS.--CHURCH OF
THE TIME OF CORTEZ.--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TOLTECS.--
TOLTEC KINGS, COURTS, AND KNIGHTHOOD.--RUINS OF THE TEMPLE AND
PALACE.--JOURNEY TO MORELOS.--INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY.--MORELOS
AND HIS SERVICES TO MEXICO.--CUAUTLA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS.--
TERRIBLE RAILWAY ACCIDENT.--DOWN THE SOUTHERN SLOPE.--IN TIERRA
CALIENTE.--VISITING A SUGAR ESTATE.--TO YAUTEPEC AND
CUERNAVACA.--RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS.--SITUATION OF
CUERNAVACA.--OLD CHURCH AND PALACE OF CORTEZ.--A FORTUNATE
FRENCHMAN.--ROMANTIC INCIDENT IN THE CAPTURE OF CUERNAVACA. 328

CHAPTER XXII.

OVERLAND TO ACAPULCO.--SCENES OF LONG AGO.--PRESENT MODE OF
TRAVEL.--TEN DAYS ON HORSEBACK.--WAY-SIDE ACCOMMODATIONS.--
ACAPULCO'S HARBOR.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.--EXCURSION TO
GUADALAJARA.--DOCTOR BRONSON LEFT BEHIND.--OLD BRIDGES AND
THEIR HISTORY.--BATTLE BETWEEN HIDALGO AND THE SPANIARDS.--
STORIES ABOUT BRIGANDS.--SLAUGHTER BY PRIVATE ENTERPRISE.--
HOW SEÑOR PEREZ SECURED PEACE.--ATTRACTIONS OF GUADALAJARA.--
THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CHURCHES.--THE GREAT HOSPICIO.--WHAT
THE EARTHQUAKE DID.--PUBLIC SCHOOLS.--A DAY ON A CATTLE
HACIENDA.--A RODEO.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL. 348

CHAPTER XXIII.

INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT DIAZ; HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND
HISTORY.--A CHECKERED CAREER.--SAVED FROM THE SEA.--THE
FAITHFUL PURSER AND HIS REWARD.--CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAZ'S
ADMINISTRATION.--MADAME DIAZ.--A DIPLOMATIC MARRIAGE.--THE
ARMY AND NAVY OF MEXICO.--THE POSTAL SERVICE.--NEWSPAPERS
AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS.--PRINCIPAL WRITERS OF FICTION.--FROM
MEXICO TO PUEBLA.--HOW THE MEXICAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--
DIFFICULTIES OF ENGINEERING.--APIZACO.--THE CITY OF THE
ANGELS; ITS CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CURIOSITIES.--MANUFACTURES
OF PUEBLA.--BATTLE-FIELD OF CINCO DE MAYO. 364

CHAPTER XXIV.

FURTHER SIGHTS IN PUEBLA.--ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.--SCHOOLS,
HOSPITALS, ASYLUMS, AND OTHER PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.--CHOLULA
AND ITS GREAT PYRAMID.--FIRST SIGHT OF THE PYRAMID; ITS
CHARACTER, SIZE, AND PECULIARITIES.--ANCIENT CHOLULA.--
MASSACRE OF INHABITANTS BY CORTEZ.--RUMORS OF BURIED
TREASURES.--HOW A CRAFTY PRIEST WAS FOILED.--VISIT TO
TLASCALA.--THE STATE LEGISLATURE IN SESSION.--BANNER CARRIED
BY CORTEZ.--FIRST CHRISTIAN CHURCH IN AMERICA.--ANCIENT
PULPIT AND BAPTISMAL FONT.--A REVERED SHRINE.--FROM
TLASCALA TO APIZACO AND ONWARD TOWARDS THE GULF. 380

CHAPTER XXV.

DOWN THE CUMBRES.--A MONSTER LOCOMOTIVE.--MALTRATA.--EL
BARRANCA DEL INFERNILLO.--IN THE TIERRA TEMPLADA.--PEAK
OF ORIZABA; HOW IT WAS ASCENDED.--AN OLD AND QUAINT TOWN.--
EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ORIZABA.--FALLS OF THE RINCON
GRANDE.--MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES--CERRO DEL BORREGO.--THE
MEXICAN ARMY ROUTED.--CORDOBA.--HOW TO RUN A COFFEE
PLANTATION.--BARRANCA OF METLAC.--PASO DEL MACHO.--TIERRA
CALIENTE.--DRY LANDS NEAR THE SEA-COAST.--VERA CRUZ.--
ZOPILOTES AND THEIR USES.--YELLOW FEVER; ITS SEASONS AND
PECULIARITIES.--NORTHERS AND THEIR BENEFITS. 394

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE ALAMEDA OF VERA CRUZ.--TROPICAL GROWTHS.--THE PALO DE
LECHE AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--A DANGEROUS PLANT.--FOUNTAINS
AND WATER-CARRIERS.--GOVERNOR'S PALACE.--BRIEF HISTORY OF
VERA CRUZ.--PILLAGED BY PIRATES AND CAPTURED IN WARS.--
FORTRESS OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA.--HORRORS OF A MEXICAN
PRISON.--EXCURSION TO JALAPA.--THE NATIONAL BRIDGE.--CERRO
GORDO.--GENERAL SCOTT'S VICTORY.--JALAPA.--A CITY OF MISTS.--
STAPLE PRODUCTS OF THE REGION.--JALAP AND ITS QUALITIES.--
PRETTY WOMEN.--PECULIARITIES OF THE STREETS.--ORIZABA AND
PEROTE.--NEW RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.--TAMPICO AND ANTON
LIZARDO.--DELAYED BY A NORTHER.--DEPARTURE BY STEAMER.--
FAREWELL TO VERA CRUZ. 410

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE COATZACOALCOS RIVER.--ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC.--TEHUANTEPEC
RAILWAY AND SHIP-CANAL.--THE EADS SHIP-RAILWAY.--AN IDEA OF
CORTEZ.--PLANS OF CAPTAIN EADS.--A RAILWAY-CARRIAGE WITH 1200
WHEELS.--SHIPS CARRIED IN TANKS.--ENGINEERING AND OTHER FEATURES
OF THE SHIP-RAILWAY.--MAHOGANY TRADE.--FIFTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS
FOR THREE LOGS.--FRONTERA AND TABASCO.--RUINS OF PALENQUE.--
LORILLARD CITY.--EXPLORATIONS BY STEPHENS AND CHARNAY.--PALACE
OF PALENQUE.--TEMPLE OF THE CROSS.--TEMPLE OF LORILLARD.--
REMARKABLE IDOL.--A REGION ABOUNDING IN RUINS.--REMAINS OF
MITLA.--PILLAR OF DEATH. 423

CHAPTER XXVIII.

"THE MYSTERIOUS CITY;" STORIES AND RUMORS CONCERNING IT.--
ACCOUNTS OF STEPHENS AND MORELET.--FATE OF TWO YOUNG
AMERICANS.--DON PEDRO VELASQUEZ.--CARMEN AND CAMPEACHY.--
UNDERGROUND CAVES.--HOW LOGWOOD IS GATHERED; ITS COMMERCIAL
IMPORTANCE.--THE QUEZAL AND ITS WONDERFUL PLUMAGE.--SNAKES
AND SNAKE STORIES.--TRAVELLERS' TALES.--PROGRESO AND
SISAL.--HOW THE YUCATAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--AGAVE SISALANA.--
DISCOVERY AND CONQUEST OF YUCATAN.--A FEROCIOUS POPULATION.--
REBELLIOUS INDIANS IN YUCATAN; HOW THEY TREAT VISITORS.--
TOWNS AND VILLAGES DEPOPULATED. 439

CHAPTER XXIX.

RAILWAY-STATION AT MERIDA.--PUBLIC CONVEYANCES.--THE
CALESA.--A RIDE THROUGH THE STREETS.--WHEN MERIDA WAS
FOUNDED.--PRACTICAL MODE OF DESIGNATING STREETS.--PUBLIC
BUILDINGS.--CASA MUNICIPAL.--DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE
PEOPLE.--INDIANS, SPANIARDS, AND MESTIZOS.--A CITY OF PRETTY
WOMEN.--CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAYA RACE.--THE MESTIZO
QUARTER.--SCENES IN THE MARKET.--BREAKFASTING AT A MEDIO
RESTAURANT.--EUCHRE OR YUCCA.--USES OF THE YUCCA PLANT.--
GAMBLING IN YUCATAN.--LA LOTERIA; HOW IT IS PLAYED.--AMERICAN
COUNTERPART OF THE YUCATEO GAME.--A POPULAR ASSEMBLAGE. 454

CHAPTER XXX.

POTTERY AND HAMMOCK MARKETS.--HAMMOCKS IN YUCATAN; THEIR
GENERAL USE FOR SLEEPING PURPOSES.--YUCATEO SALUTATIONS.--AN
AWKWARD SITUATION.--FASHIONABLE, MESTIZO, AND INDIAN BALLS.--
CHARACTERISTIC INDIAN DANCES.--WORSHIP OF THE SUN AMONG THE
ANCIENT YUCATEOS.--NATIVE MUSIC.--ZOPILOTE DANCE.--VISIT TO A
HENEQUIN HACIENDA.--THE VOLAN COCHÉ.--A VEHICLE OF THE
COUNTRY.--A RACE AND HOW IT ENDED.--ARRIVAL AT THE HACIENDA.--
THE SCRAPING AND BALING MACHINERY.--STARTING A PLANTATION.--
PRICE OF THE FIBRE IN THE MARKET.--"NO MONEY IN THE
BUSINESS."--FIBRE-FACTORIES IN YUCATAN.--HOW THE OWNERS OF
ESTATES LIVE. 468

CHAPTER XXXI.

FIRST NIGHT IN THE HAMMOCKS.--INSPECTING A CENOTÉ.--
UNDERGROUND WATERCOURSES AND LAKES.--HOW CENOTÉS ARE
FORMED.--A SUBTERRANEAN BATH-HOUSE.--A NORIA.--WATER TAX ON
A DIRECT SYSTEM.--NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS.--A LIZARD THAT SHAKES
HIS TAIL OFF.--BITING A SHADOW, AND WHAT COMES OF IT.--JOURNEY
TO THE RUINS OF UXMAL.--A HEETZMEK.--YUCATEO MODE OF CARRYING
INFANTS.--BREAKFAST AT A HACIENDA.--GARDEN AT UAYALKÉ. EATING
TROPICAL LIZARDS.--FRED'S OPINION OF LIZARD STEWS.--BEES OF
THE COUNTRY.--SUPERFLUOUS INDUSTRY OF YUCATEO BEES.--EVENING
PRAYER AT A HACIENDA.--ARRIVAL AT UXMAL. 483

CHAPTER XXXII.

A ROMANTIC LEGEND.--HOW THE KING WAS OVERCOME BY THE WITCH.--
VISITING THE DWARF'S HOUSE; ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.--
HOUSE OF THE NUNS; ITS EXTENT AND CONSTRUCTION.--CASA DEL
GOBERNADOR.--DESTRUCTIVE AGENCIES AT WORK.--AT HOME IN A ROYAL
PALACE.--MAYA ARCHES.--TROPICAL TREES AND PLANTS.--DOUBLE-HEADED
DOG OF UXMAL.--GARAPATAS AND THE ANNOYANCE THEY CAUSED.--INSECT
PESTS OF YUCATAN.--DR. LE PLONGEON AND THE STATUE OF
CHAC-MOOL.--GHOSTS AND GHOST STORIES.--BIRDS OF YUCATAN.--AN
ANCIENT WATERING-PLACE. 498

CHAPTER XXXIII.

A CHAPTER ON ARCHÆOLOGY.--NUMBER AND EXTENT OF THE RUINED
CITIES OF YUCATAN.--MAYAPAN, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL.--PYRAMID
OF MAYAPAN.--AKÉ AND ITS PICOTÉ.--AN ANCIENT WHIPPING-POST.--
PYRAMIDS AT AKÉ.--HISTORICAL CONUNDRUMS.--KABAH AND ITS
MOUND.--SCULPTURE OF A MAN ON HORSEBACK.--CHICHEN-ITZA.--
CHURCH, NUNNERY, CASTLE, AND TENNIS-COURT AT CHICHEN.--
EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF THE SCULPTURES.--STORY OF THE CONQUEST
OF CHICHEN.--SKILFUL RETREAT OF THE SPANISH CAPTAIN.--OTHER
RUINED CITIES.--IDOLS OF COPAN.--PROBABILITIES OF CITIES YET
TO BE DISCOVERED. 513