Chapter XVII

THE WEARY MARCH RESUMED.--RETURN OF THE MESSENGERS.--ARRIVAL OF RELIEF.--SCENE IN CAMP.--DISTRIBUTION OF PROVISIONS.--THE SONG OF JOY.--A WELCOME LETTER.--"ENOUGH NOW; FALL TO."--PERSONAL LUXURIES FOR THE LEADER.--"PALE ALE! SHERRY! PORT WINE! CHAMPAGNE! TEA! COFFEE! WHITE SUGAR! WHEATEN BREAD!"--STANLEY'S REPLY TO THE GENEROUS STRANGERS.--SUMMARY PUNISHMENT FOR THEFT.--GREETING CIVILIZATION.--RECEPTION BY WHITE MEN.--THE FREEDOM OF BOMA.--LIFTED INTO THE HAMMOCK.--CHARACTERISTICS OF BOMA.--A BANQUET AND FAREWELL.--PONTA DA LENHA.--OUT ON THE OCEAN.--ADIEU TO THE CONGO.

After a pause of a few minutes, Fred continued the story of the weary march of the next day, and the formation of the camp near Mbinda, close to a cemetery where the graves were decorated with the property of their occupants. Many pitchers, bowls, mugs, and other articles of European manufacture were displayed there, and indicated the free intercourse of the natives with the merchants of Embomma.

"The natives," said Fred, "continued indifferent to the sufferings of the starving travellers, and persistently refused to sell any food. Early on the morning of the 6th of August the party moved out, and after toiling painfully over the flinty path went into camp near Banza Mbuko about 9 A.M. In despair the people flung themselves on the ground, and some of them appeared ready to welcome death as a relief from their misery. And now," continued the youth, "let us turn again to Mr. Stanley's narrative:

"Suddenly the shrill voice of a little boy was heard saying, 'Oh! I
see Uledi and Kachéché coming down the hill, and there are plenty
of men following them!'

"'What! what! what!' broke out eagerly from several voices, and
dark forms were seen springing up from among the bleached grass,
and from under the shade, and many eyes were directed at the
whitened hill-slope.

"'Yes; it is true! it is true! La il Allah, il Allah! Yes; el hamd
ul Illah! Yes, it is food! food! food at last! Ah, that Uledi! he
is a lion, truly! We are saved, thank God!'

"Before many minutes, Uledi and Kachéché were seen tearing through
the grass, and approaching us with long springing strides, holding
a letter up to announce to us that they had been successful. And
the gallant fellows, hurrying up, soon placed it in my hands, and
in the hearing of all who were gathered to hear the news I
translated the following letter:

"'EMBOMMA,
"'ENGLISH FACTORY.
"'6.30 A.M.,
"'BOMA, _6th August_, 1877.

"'H. M. STANLEY, Esq.:

"DEAR SIR,--Your welcome letter came to hand yesterday, at 7 P.M.
As soon as its contents were understood, we immediately arranged
to despatch to you such articles as you requested, as much as our
stock on hand would permit, and other things that we deemed would
be suitable in that locality. You will see that we send fifty
pieces of cloth, each twenty-four yards long, and some sacks
containing sundries for yourself; several sacks of rice, sweet
potatoes, also a few bundles of fish, a bundle of tobacco, and one
demijohn of rum. The carriers are all paid, so that you need not
trouble yourself about them. That is all we need say about
business. We are exceedingly sorry to hear that you have arrived
in such piteous condition, but we send our warmest congratulations
to you, and hope that you will soon arrive in Boma (this place is
called Boma by us, though on the map it is Embomma). Again hoping
that you will soon arrive, and that you are not suffering in
health.

"'Believe us to remain, your sincere friends,

"'_(Signed)_
"'HATTON & COOKSON.
"'A. DA MOTTA VEIGA.
"'J. W. HARRISON.'

"Uledi and Kachéché then delivered their budget. Their guides had
accompanied them half-way, when they became frightened by the
menaces of some of the natives of Mbinda, and deserted them. The
four Wangwana, however, undertook the journey alone, and,
following a road for several hours, they appeared at Bibbi after
dark. The next day (the 5th), being told by the natives that Boma
(to which Embomma was now changed) was lower down river, and
unable to obtain guides, the brave fellows resolved upon following
the Congo along its banks. About an hour after sunset, after a
fatiguing march over many hills, they reached Boma, and, asking a
native for the house of the 'Ingreza' (English), were shown to the
factory of Messrs. Hatton & Cookson, which was superintended by a
Portuguese gentleman, Mr. A. da Motta Veiga, and Mr. John W.
Harrison, of Liverpool. Kachéché, who was a better narrator than
Uledi, then related that a short white man, wearing spectacles,
opened the letter, and, after reading awhile, asked which was
Robert Feruzi, who answered for himself in English, and, in answer
to many questions, gave a summary of our travels and adventures,
but not before the cooks were set to prepare an abundance of food,
which they sadly needed, after a fast of over thirty hours.

"By this time the procession of carriers from Messrs. Hatton &
Cookson's factory had approached, and all eyes were directed at
the pompous old 'capitan' and the relief caravan behind him.
Several of the Wangwana officiously stepped forward to relieve the
fatigued and perspiring men, and with an extraordinary vigor
tossed the provisions--rice, fish, and tobacco bundles--on the
ground, except the demijohn of rum, which they called pombé, and
handled most carefully. The 'capitan' was anxious about my private
stores, but the scene transpiring about the provisions was so
absorbingly interesting that I could pay no attention as yet to
them. While the captains of the messes were ripping open the sacks
and distributing the provisions in equal quantities, Murabo, the
boat-boy, struck up a glorious, loud-swelling chant of triumph and
success, into which he deftly, and with a poet's license,
interpolated verses laudatory of the white men of the second sea.
The bard, extemporizing, sang much about the great cataracts,
cannibals, and pagans, hunger, the wide wastes, great inland seas,
and niggardly tribes, and wound up by declaring that the journey
was over, that we were even then smelling the breezes of the
western ocean, and his master's brothers had redeemed them from
the 'hell of hunger.' And at the end of each verse the voices rose
high and clear to the chorus--

"'Then sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended;
Sing aloud, O friends, sing to this great sea.'

"'Enough now; fall to,' said Manwa Sera, at which the people
nearly smothered him by their numbers. Into each apron, bowl, and
utensil held out, the several captains expeditiously tossed full
measures of rice and generous quantities of sweet potatoes and
portions of fish. The younger men and women hobbled after water,
and others set about gathering fuel, and the camp was all
animation, where but half an hour previously all had been listless
despair. Many people were unable to wait for the food to be
cooked, but ate the rice and the fish raw. But when the provisions
had all been distributed, and the noggin of rum had been equitably
poured into each man's cup, and the camp was in a state of genial
excitement, and groups of dark figures discussed with animation
the prospective food which the hospitable fires were fast
preparing, then I turned to my tent, accompanied by Uledi,
Kachéché, the capitan, and the tent-boys, who were, I suppose,
eager to witness my transports of delight.

"With profound tenderness Kachéché handed to me the mysterious
bottles, watching my face the while with his sharp detective eyes
as I glanced at the labels, by which the cunning rogue read my
pleasure. Pale ale! Sherry! Port wine! Champagne! Several loaves
of bread, wheaten bread, sufficient for a week! Two pots of
butter! A packet of tea! Coffee! White loaf-sugar! Sardines and
salmon! Plum-pudding! Currant, gooseberry, and raspberry jam!

"The gracious God be praised forever! The long war we had
maintained against famine and the siege of woe were over, and my
people and I rejoiced in plenty! Only an hour before this we had
been living on the recollections of the few peanuts and green
bananas we had consumed in the morning, but now, in an instant, we
were transported into the presence of the luxuries of
civilization. Never did gaunt Africa appear so unworthy and so
despicable before my eyes as now, when imperial Europe rose before
me and showed her boundless treasures of life, and blessed me with
her stores.

"When we all felt refreshed, the cloth bales were opened, and
soon, instead of the venerable and tattered relics of Manchester,
Salem, and Nashua manufacture, which were hastily consumed by the
fire, the people were reclad with white cloths and gay prints. The
nakedness of want, the bare ribs, the sharp, protruding bones were
thus covered; but months must elapse before the hollow, sunken
cheeks and haggard faces would again resume the healthy bronze
color which distinguishes the well-fed African.

"My condition of mind in the evening of the eventful day which was
signalized by the happy union which we had made with the merchants
of the west coast, may be guessed by the following letter:

"'BANZA MBUKO, _August_ 6, 1877.

"'MESSRS. A. DA MOTTA VEIGA AND J. W. HARRISON, EMBOMMA, CONGO
RIVER:

"'GENTLEMEN,--I have received your very welcome letter, but better
than all, and more welcome, your supplies. I am unable to express
just at present how grateful I feel. We are all so overjoyed and
confused with our emotions, at the sight of the stores exposed to
our hungry eyes--at the sight of the rice, the fish, and the rum,
and for me--wheaten bread, butter, sardines, jam, peaches, grapes,
beer (ye gods! just think of it--three bottles pale ale!) besides
tea and sugar--that we cannot restrain ourselves from falling to
and enjoying this sudden bounteous store--and I beg you will
charge our apparent want of thankfulness to our greediness. If we
do not thank you sufficiently in words, rest assured we feel what
volumes could not describe.

"'For the next twenty-four hours we shall be too busy eating to
think of anything else much; but I may say that the people cry out
joyfully, while their mouths are full of rice and fish, "Verily,
our master has found the sea, and his brothers, but we did not
believe him until he showed us the rice and the pombé (rum). We
did not believe there was any end to the great river; but, God be
praised forever, we shall see white people to-morrow, and our wars
and troubles will be over."

"'Dear Sirs, though strangers, I feel we shall be great friends,
and it will be the study of my lifetime to remember my feelings of
gratefulness when I first caught sight of your supplies, and my
poor, faithful, and brave people cried out, "Master, we are
saved!--food is coming!" The old and the young--the men, the
women, the children--lifted their wearied and worn-out frames, and
began to chant lustily an extemporaneous song, in honor of the
white people by the great salt sea (the Atlantic) who had listened
to their prayers. I had to rush to my tent to hide the tears that
would issue, despite all my attempts at composure.

"'Gentlemen, that the blessing of God may attend your footsteps
whithersoever you go, is the very earnest prayer of

"'Yours faithfully, HENRY M. STANLEY,
"'_Commanding Anglo-American Expedition_.'

"At the same hour on the morning of the 7th that we resumed the
march, Kachéché and Uledi were despatched to Boma with the above
letter. Then surmounting a ridge, we beheld a grassy country
barred with seams of red clay in gullies, ravines, and slopes, the
effects of rain, dipping into basins with frequently broad masses
of plateau and great dykelike ridges between, and in the distance
southwest of us a lofty, tree-clad hill-range, which we were told
we should have to climb before descending to N'lamba N'lamba,
where we proposed camping.

"Half an hour's march brought us to a market-place, where a
tragedy had been enacted a short time before the relief caravan
had passed it the day previous. Two thieves had robbed a woman of
salt, and, according to the local custom which ordains the
severest penalties for theft in the public mart, the two felons
had been immediately executed, and their bodies laid close to the
path to deter others evilly disposed from committing like crimes.

"At noon we surmounted the lofty range which we had viewed near
Banza Mbuko, and the aneroid indicated a height of fifteen hundred
feet. A short distance from its base, on two grassy hills, is
situate N'lamba N'lamba, a settlement comprising several villages,
and as populous as Mbinda. The houses and streets were very clean
and neat; but, as of old, the natives are devoted to idolatry, and
their passion for carving wooden idols was illustrated in every
street we passed through.

"On the 8th we made a short march of five miles to N'safu, over a
sterile, bare, and hilly country, but the highest ridge passed was
not over eleven hundred feet above the sea. Uledi and Kachéché
returned at this place with more cheer for us, and a note
acknowledging my letter of thanks.

"In a postscript to this note, Mr. Motta Veiga prepared me for a
reception which was to meet me on the road half-way between N'safu
and Boma; it also contained the census of the European population,
as follows:

"'Perhaps you do not know that in Boma there are only eleven
Portuguese, one Frenchman, one Dutchman, one gentleman from St.
Helena, and ourselves (Messrs. Motta Veiga and J. W. Harrison),
Messrs. Hatton and Cookson being in Liverpool, and the two
signatures above being names of those in charge of the English
factory there.'

"On the 9th of August, 1877, 999th day from the date of our
departure from Zanzibar, we prepared to greet the van of
civilization.

"From the bare rocky ridges of N'safu there is a perceptible
decline to the Congo valley, and the country becomes, in
appearance, more sterile--a sparse population dwelling in a mere
skeleton village in the centre of bleakness. Shingly rocks strewed
the path and the waste, and thin, sere grass waved mournfully on
level and spine, on slope of ridge and crest of hill; in the
hollows it was somewhat thicker; in the bottoms it had a slight
tinge of green.

"We had gradually descended some five hundred feet along declining
spurs when we saw a scattered string of hammocks appearing, and
gleams of startling whiteness, such as were given by fine linen
and twills.

"A buzz of wonder ran along our column.

"Proceeding a little farther, we stopped, and in a short time I
was face to face with four white--ay, truly white men!

"As I looked into their faces, I blushed to find that I was
wondering at their paleness. Poor pagan Africans--Rwoma of Uzinja,
and man-eating tribes of the Livingstone! The whole secret of
their wonder and curiosity flashed upon me at once. What arrested
the twanging bow and the deadly trigger of the cannibals? What but
the weird pallor of myself and Frank! In the same manner the sight
of the pale faces of the Embomma merchants gave me the slightest
suspicion of an involuntary shiver. The pale color, after so long
gazing on rich black and richer bronze, had something of an
unaccountable ghastliness. I could not divest myself of the
feeling that they must be sick; yet, as I compare their
complexions to what I now view, I should say they were olive,
sunburned, dark.

"Yet there was something very self-possessed about the carriage of
these white men. It was grand; a little self-pride mixed with
cordiality. I could not remember just then that I had witnessed
such bearing among any tribe throughout Africa. They spoke well
also; the words they uttered hit the sense pat; without gesture,
they were perfectly intelligible. How strange! It was quite
delightful to observe the slight nods of the head; the intelligent
facial movements were admirably expressive. They were completely
clothed, and neat also; I ought to say immaculately clean. Jaunty
straw hats, colored neckties, patent-leather boots, well-cut
white clothes, virtuously clean! I looked from them to my people,
and then I fear I felt almost like being grateful to the Creator
that I was not as black as they, and that these finely dressed,
well-spoken whites claimed me as friend and kin. Yet I did not
dare to place myself upon an equality with them as yet; the calm
blue and gray eyes rather awed me, and the immaculate purity of
their clothes dazzled me. I was content to suppose myself a kind
of connecting link between the white and the African for the time
being. Possibly familiarity would beget greater confidence.

"They expressed themselves delighted to see me; congratulated me
with great warmth of feeling, and offered to me the 'Freedom of
Boma!' We travelled together along the path for a mile, and came
to the frontier village of Boma, or Embomma, where the 'king' was
at hand to do the honors. My courteous friends had brought a
hamper containing luxuries. Hock and champagne appeared to be
cheap enough where but a few hours previous a cup of palm-wine was
as precious as nectar; rare dainties of Paris and London abundant,
though a short time ago we were stinted of even ground-nuts. Nor
were the Wangwana forgotten, for plenty had also been prepared for
them.

"My friends who thus welcomed me among the descendants of Japhet
were Mr. A. da Motta Veiga, Senhores Luiz Pinto Maroo, João
Chaves, Henrique Germano Faro, and Mr. J. F. Müller, of the Dutch
factory. They had brought a hammock with them, and eight sturdy,
well-fed bearers. They insisted on my permitting them to lift me
into the hammock. I declined. They said it was a Portuguese
custom. To custom, therefore, I yielded, though it appeared very
effeminate.

"It was a gradual slope through a valley, which soon opened into a
low alluvial plain, seamed here and there with narrow gullies, and
then over the heads of the tall grass as I lay in the hammock I
caught a glimpse of the tall square box of a frame-house, with a
steep roof, erected on rising ground. It brought back a host of
old recollections; for everywhere on the frontiers of civilization
in America one may see the like. It approached nearer and larger
to the view, and presently the hammock was halted by whitewashed
palings, above which the square two-storied box rose on piles with
a strangeness that was almost weird. It was the residence of those
in charge of the English factory.

"Looking from the house, my eyes rested on the river. Ah! the
hateful, murderous river, now so broad and proud and majestically
calm, as though it had not bereft me of a friend, and of many
faithful souls, and as though we had never heard it rage and
whiten with fury, and mock the thunder. What a hypocritical river!
But just below the landing a steamer was ascending--the _Kabinda_,
John Petherbridge, master. How civilization was advancing on me!
Not a moment even to lie down and rest! Full-blooded, eager,
restless, and aggressive, it pressed on me, and claimed me for its
own, without allowing me even the time to cast one retrospective
glance at the horrors left behind. While still overwhelmed by the
thought, the people of the expedition appeared, pressing forward
to admire and gaze wide-eyed at the strange 'big iron canoe,'
driven by fire on _their_ river; for there were several
Wanyamwezi, Waganda, and east-coast men who would not believe that
there was anything more wonderful than the _Lady Alice_.

"Our life at Boma, which lasted only from 11 A.M. of the 9th to
noon of the 11th, passed too quickly away; but throughout it was
intensest pleasure and gayety.

"There are some half-dozen factories at Boma, engaging the
attention of about eighteen whites. The houses are all constructed
of wooden boards, with, as a rule, corrugated zinc roofs. The
residences line the river front; the Dutch, French, and Portuguese
factories being west of an isolated high square-browed hill,
which, by-the-bye, is a capital site for a fortlet; and the
English factory being a few hundred yards above it. Each factory
requires an ample courtyard for its business, which consists in
the barter of cotton fabrics, glass-ware, crockery, iron-ware,
gin, rum, guns and gunpowder, for palm-oil, ground-nuts, and
ivory. The merchants contrive to exist as comfortably as their
means will allow. Some of them plant fruits and garden vegetables,
and cultivate grape-vines. Pineapples, guavas, and limes may be
obtained from the market, which is held on alternate days a short
distance behind the European settlement.

"Though Boma is comparatively ancient, and Europeans have had
commercial connections with this district and the people for over
a century, yet Captain Tuckey's description of the people,
written in 1816--their ceremonies and modes of life, their
suspicion of strangers and intolerance, their greed for rum and
indolence, the scarcity of food--is as correct as though written
to-day. The name 'Boma,' however, has usurped that of 'Lombee,'
which Captain Tuckey knew; the _banza_ of Embomma being a little
distance inland. In his day it was a village of about one hundred
huts, in which was held the market of the _banza_, or king's town.

"The view inland is dreary, bleak, and unpromising, consisting of
grassy hills, and of a broken country, its only boast the sturdy
baobab, which relieves the nakedness of the land. But, fresh from
the hungry wilderness and the land of selfish men, from the storm
and stress of the cataracts, the solemn rock defiles of the
Livingstone, and the bleak table-land--I heeded it not. The
glowing, warm life of Western civilization, the hospitable
civilities and gracious kindnesses which the merchants of Boma
showered on myself and people, were as dews of Paradise, grateful,
soothing, and refreshing.

"On the 11th, at noon, after a last little banquet and songs,
hearty cheers, innumerable toasts, and fervid claspings of
friendly hands, we embarked. An hour before sunset the 'big iron
canoe,' after a descent of about thirty-five miles, hauled
in-shore, on the right bank, and made fast to the pier of another
of Hatton & Cookson's factories at Ponta da Lenha, or Wooded
Point. Two or three other Portuguese factories are in close
neighborhood to it, lightening the gloom of the background of
black mangrove and forest.

"After a very agreeable night with our hospitable English host,
the _Kabinda_ was again under way.

"The puissant river below Boma reminded me of the scenes above
Uyanzi; the color of the water, the numerous islands, and the
enormous breadth recalled those days when we had sought the liquid
wildernesses of the Livingstone, to avoid incessant conflicts with
the human beasts of prey in the midst of primitive Africa, and at
the sight my eyes filled with tears at the thought that I could
not recall my lost friends, and bid them share the rapturous joy
that now filled the hearts of all those who had endured and
survived.

"A few hours later and we were gliding through the broad portal
into the ocean, the blue domain of civilization!

"Turning to take a farewell glance at the mighty river on whose
brown bosom we had endured so greatly, I saw it approach, awed and
humbled, the threshold of the watery immensity, to whose
immeasurable volume and illimitable expanse, awful as had been its
power, and terrible as had been its fury, its flood was but a
drop. And I felt my heart suffused with purest gratitude to Him
whose hand had protected us, and who had enabled us to pierce the
Dark Continent from east to west, and to trace its mightiest river
to its ocean bourne."