Chapter V: Part 5

formed a “rural confusion.” The velocity of the stream shortly brought us to that noble scenery, about four miles from Ross, which so eminently distinguishes and constitutes the beauty of the Wye; before us, the noble remains of Goodrich Castle, cresting a steep eminence, enveloped with trees, presented themselves; behind, the thick foliage of Chase Woods closed the picture. The happiest gradation of tints, and the liveliest blending of colours, was here conspicuous. On the right hand we landed on the shore, in order to make a minute investigation of the castle: it is certainly a grand ruin, and stands on an eminence, naturally so steep, as to render it, in former times, capable of some resistance against a formidable enemy. On our first entrance into the ruin, we naturally indulged reflections on past scenes, contemplated the traces of ancient splendour; and connecting what remains, with what is destroyed; we pondered on the vanity of human art, and the ravages of time, which exhibit, in this ruin, their compleatest triumph. The warrior, who strove to preserve its original grandeur against the attacks of Cromwell, is buried in Walford church, situated on the opposite side of the river, and seen from the castle. The different parts of the building, bear evident marks of its having been erected at various times; from a seat in the castle-yard is the most advantageous spot for surveying, in one view, the whole of this ruin: an octagon pillar, of light and elegant workmanship, is seen to great advantage through the gate-way, and adds considerably to the magnificence of this ancient pile: it now belongs to Dr. Griffin, of Hadnuck, the lord of the manor. To return to our boat: we took a different and more circuitous route, for the purpose of inspecting the remains of Goodrich Priory, now converted into a farm. The chapel has experienced the same vicissitude; and those walls, which formerly re-echoed with the chaunting of voices, and the solemn peal, now repeat the continued strokes of the flail; in many parts of the walls, the initials of names of persons, who have long since paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are carved with characteristic rudeness, shewing, to every passing stranger, the prevalency of that universal passion—the love of fame. The Gothic windows, and the cross, erected on each end of the building, shew evident marks of its former purpose. The boat usually meets the passengers at another reach of the river; but it is a plan by no means to be pursued; since, by missing a circuit round the castle, its different tints, and variety of attitudes, occasioned by one of the boldest sweeps of the Wye, are entirely lost. A short time after we had taken our last retrospect of Goodrich Castle, the spire of Ruredean church appeared in front, just peeping from among the woody skirts of the Forest of Dean: a little below, Courtfield House, belonging to Mr. Vaughn, was seen, in a very picturesque point of view, with the ruins of the chapel, forming the back ground. In Courtfield House, tradition reports, the warlike Henry V. was nursed; and in the church of Welch Buckner, situated to the right, in a noble amphitheatre, enclosed with rocks, first embraced the Christian religion. A busy scene, of craft loading and unloading, and coals shipping for various parts from the quay at Lidbroke, presents a picture of cheerful activity, and forms a pleasing contrast to the quiet, rich, and retired spots, we had left behind us; such spots, as were well adapted to form the mind of Britain’s glory—the virtuous Henry. The banks now became richly clothed with wood, from the summits of the highest rocks to the water’s edge; and a hill in front, called Rosemary Topping, from the mellow luxuriance of its sides, closed the prospect. Almost every sweep presents a new object, to strike the admiration of the spectator: the transitions are sudden, but never so harsh as to disgust; even the contrast between the embellishments of art we had just left, and the wild rocks, which here exhibit nature in her most striking attitudes, give an additional impression to each other.

We now reached those fine mass of rocks, called Coldwell, one of which, Symond’s Yatch, to the left, it is customary for company to ascend, in order to view the mazy and circuitous course of the river, and the extensive prospect around. The Forest of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, Hereford, and Gloucester, were extended before us, studded with villages, diversified with clusters of half-visible farm houses; with many a grey steeple, “embosomed high in tufted trees.” In painting the several views from this summit, the happiest description would fail; the impression can only be conveyed by the eye. The river here makes a most extraordinary winding round the promontory, and having completed a circuit of more than five miles, flows a second time immediately under Symond’s Yatch. The whole of this mazy course may be traced from this eminence. From hence we discovered a very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, and we reckoned twelve distinct reverberations from the explosion of a gun, fired on this spot. It is here again customary for the boatmen to impose on strangers, and if they can prevail on them, during their walk to Symond’s Yatch, will take the boat round the circuit of five miles, and meet them at New Wier, in order that no time should be lost; but this laziness we by no means encouraged, and the whole course of this extraordinary and romantic sweep proved highly gratifying. Goodrich spire, which we again wound round, presented itself; huge fragments of massy rocks which have rolled down from the precipices, opposite Manuck Farm, here almost choaked up the course of the stream. The changing attitudes and various hues of Symond’s Yatch, lifting its almost spiral head high above the other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, supplied a combination of tints surprisingly gay and beautiful; and having accomplished a sweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter of a mile, the spot where we began our ascent to this steep eminence.

The view, at New Wier, next unfolded itself; but a disagreeable scene here generally occurs, and interrupts the pleasure of contemplation: a large assemblage of beggars, men, women, and children, on the banks, bare-footed, and scarcely a rag to cover them, followed our boat, imploring charity; and several almost throwing themselves into the water, to catch your money, which, every now and then, the bigger seize from the less. This idle crew subsist on the trifles they obtain from strangers; and as beggary is their professed trade, if their wants are not satisfied, they generally add insolence, with an oath, to their demands.

But I have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New Wier, the spire of Haunton on Wye, cresting a hill at the extremity of a long reach, and a fantastic barren rock, jutting out from the green foliage which encircles it, presenting itself bold and conspicuous, formed prominent and interesting features in the landscape: this is called “Bearcroft,” receiving its appellation from the very respectable and learned counsellor of that name. Several rocks indeed, particularly in this part of the river, are named by the Council, who have long made it a practice of exploring the rich and bold scenery of the Wye, on their assize circuit. Gilpin, considering New Wier as the second grand scene on the Wye, thus describes it: “The river is wider than usual in this part, and takes a sweep round a towering promontory of rock, which forms the side screen on the left, and is the grand feature of the view.—On the right side of the river, the bank forms a woody amphitheatre, following the course of the stream round the promontory: its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet, in the midst of which, volumes of thick smoke, thrown up at intervals, from an iron forge, as its fires receive fresh fuel, add double grandeur to the scene. But what peculiarly marks this view, is a circumstance on the water: the whole river, at this place, makes a precipitate fall; of no great height, indeed, but enough to merit the name of a cascade, though to the eye, above the stream, it is an object of no consequence. In all the scenes we had yet passed, the water moving with a slow and solemn pace, the objects around kept time, as it were, with it; and every steep, and every rock, which hung over the river, was solemn, tranquil, and majestic. But here, the violence of the stream, and the roaring of the waters, impressed a new character on the scene: all was agitation and uproar; and every steep, and every rock, stared with wildness and terror.” The accuracy and elegancy of this description, drawn by so masterly a pen, I hope, will amply compensate for the length of this quotation. The extensive iron-works, mentioned in this passage, belong to Mr. Partridge. Below the New Wier, a continuation of the same rich scenery still arrested our attention, and rocks and wood seemed to contend, which should be most conspicuous; till the winding of the river, round Doward’s Rock, on which was formerly a Roman station, brought us under the house of Mr. Hatley, which commands a view of the river as far as Monmouth, when it is terminated by the town, and bridge of six arches. As we drew near

MONMOUTH,

the house of Dr. Griffins, situated on an eminence, and a banqueting room, erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared above the town, on the left.

The town of Monmouth lies too low, to form a grand appearance from the water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and pleasantly situated on the banks of the Wye.

As we repaired to our inn, we were both involuntarily led to take a retrospect of the past amusements of the day. The partial gleams of sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and bold scenery, and every thing had conspired to render it a most interesting aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would have selected, had he now existed, for his canvas; with rapture, too, would he have caught the tints; and, with the happiest effect, combined the objects into a picture, kept up our attention, and removed that monotony which too often accompanies water excursions. Such has been the pleasure of our first day’s water expedition; and, from the impression it made on us, we eagerly look forward to some future period, when we may again retrace views, which memory will ever hold dear, and the pleasure be then redoubled, with the remembrance of past occurrences.

The evening we dedicated to the survey of Monmouth.—Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the town, is the town-house, handsomely built, with a full length statue on the outside, facing the street, with this inscription under it: “Henry the Fifth, born at Monmouth, August the ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and virtuous prince, the charter was granted to the town of Monmouth: it is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen aldermen, nine constables, two serjeants, and two beadles. The castle now bears few vestiges of its former grandeur; and of the regal dome, scarcely a wreck has escaped, through the long lapse of years, the ravages of time: where a mighty king once gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the animate appendages of a farm-yard.

Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into a school, the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this town Wihenoc de Menemuc, or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry I. brought over a convent of black Monks from St. Florence, and placed them first in the church of St. Cadoc, near the castle, and after, in the church of St. Mary. It was among other ancient priories, and seized by the crown, during the wars with France; but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the general suppression, in the reign of Henry VIII. {189} From hence we walked to the church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffry of Monmouth composed his well-known History: this is now a day-school. Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school, founded here, from the following curious circumstance: Mr. Jones, a native of Newland, being in distress, left his parish and went to London, where he engaged himself as servant to a Hamburgh merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he was by degrees advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own; willing to prove how far the charity of his native place would extend towards him, in disguise, he applied for that relief, which he was enabled to shew towards others, but his parish taking no notice of him, referred him to Monmouth, and would not redress his pretended complaints: the latter however, being more charitably disposed, relieved him according to his wishes. Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them of his real situation, and promised to repay their kindness, by obliging them in any demand, they should request. On this, they solicited the foundation of a free-school, which he immediately built, liberally endowed, and which from that time has been well supported. The walk to the Folly, we were informed, would have afforded us some beautiful and extensive prospects; the whole of this information we should probably have found true, but the evening closing, we were very reluctantly necessitated to return to our inn.

Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth: the church first demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but the inside offers nothing remarkable for the inspection of the antiquarian. The gaol, built after the plan of the benevolent Howard, is situated in a healthy spot, and, in every respect, rendered as commodious and comfortable, as such a place will allow, for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed, contains several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. A bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, bears every mark of antiquity.

The hire of the boat, from Monmouth to Chepstow, is on the same plan as from Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly equal. Nothing now remained, but to recommence our water excursion; and we accordingly embarked a quarter of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The weather still continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on the left, were, at first, low; but as we receded from the town, the spire of Monmouth in the retrospect, with the Kemmin woods, rising from a rock of great height, on our left, under which the river meanders, engaged our attention; and to our right, Pen-y-van hill, was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed, on our first re-embarkation.

The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated us yesterday, still continued, occasionally diversified by light vessels skimming by our boat, and increasing in number, as we approached nearer the sea. The rude hail of the boatmen, as they passed, was re-echoed by the rocks, and the dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon disappeared round some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque. Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately, mantled with underwood, and pointed crags; large fragments scattered in the river, here divide the counties of Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrooke Hills, the curling smoke issuing from the iron-works, formed a pleasing-accompaniment to the scenery, and the whole exhibited a picture of industrious labour. These works belong to Mr. Turner: the wood and meadow land of Whitebrook Hills, were finely contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrooke. From hence a long reach, with Fidenham Chase Hill rising conspicuously in the front, brought us to the village of

LLANDOGO;

diversified with cottages, from the base to the highest summit of the sloping eminence. This village is about nine miles from Monmouth, and arrests particular observation; here vessels of considerable burden were loading with iron, and other commodities, for various ports. The appearance of the river, here, changed; the translucent stream, which had hitherto alternately reflected, as in a mirror, the awful projection of the rocks, and the soft flowery verdure of its banks, was affected, by the influence of the tide, and rendered turbid and unpleasant to the sight.

A turn of the river soon brought us to the village of

TINTERN:

we here observed the ruins of an old mansion, belonging to Mr. Farmer, of Monmouth; this house appears of an old date, and might probably claim the attention of the curious antiquary, was he not so wrapt up in contemplating the venerable Abbey, which presents its Gothic pile, in solemn majesty. This august building, great in ruins, and awfully grand in appearance, impels the stranger, as it were, imperceptibly, to land and inspect its noble arches, its tottering pillars, and its highly finished windows; the specimens of ancient architecture, which formerly were delicately wrought by the hand of art, are now finely decked by that of nature. On our first entrance, our attention was too much engrossed, to exchange the mutual communication of thought; but the care which has been officiously taken to remove every fragment, lying scattered through the immense area of the fabric, and the smoothness of the shorn grass, which no scythe should have dared to clip, in a great measure perverts the character of the ruin: these circumstances but ill accord with the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin, which has braved the pitiless storms of so many centuries. In this respect, we by no means agreed with Gilpin, who thus describes it: “We excuse—perhaps we approve—the neatness that is introduced within. It _may_ add to the _beauty_ of the scene—to its _novelty_ it undoubtedly _does_.” But when this disgust was a little abated, we indulged those reflections, which scenes of ancient grandeur naturally recall.

This beautiful ruin is cruciform, measuring two hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty-three in breadth; the transept stretches north and south, one hundred and sixty feet. {194} This cistertian abbey was founded by Walter de Clare, in the year 1131, and dedicated to St. Mary, in the reign of Henry VIII. It experienced the same fate with many other monasteries, and was granted, at its dissolution, to the Earl of Worcester, in the year 1537.

As we receded from the banks, Tintern Abbey, with the Gothic fret-work of the eastern window, seemingly bound together by the treillage of ivy, appeared in the most pleasing point of view; sloping hills and rich woods forming a fine back-ground. As we drew nearer

CHEPSTOW,

some most noble rocks, “nature’s proud bastions,” opened upon us, to the left, grander than any we had hitherto admired, and which, we had previously determined, were inconceivably fine, and surpassed any idea we had formed of the channel of this romantic river: to add to the magnificence of the whole, the setting sun tinged the rocks with the most resplendent colours, and the dewy freshness of the evening improved the charm of the scene; the one enchanting the sense, the other refreshing it. The lofty Wine Cliff, to the right, and Piercefield, with the curious projecting rocks, called the Twelve Apostles, and Peter’s Thumb, heighten, to the very extent of beauty, this noble scene, gratifying, beyond measure, to the admirer of nature. Another reach brought us in sight of Chepstow Castle, on a prominent rock, of which it seemed to form a part; noble in situation, and grand in appearance. The singular constructed bridge, the rocks, and the scarce visible town, here made a most charming picture: this we enjoyed exceedingly, but regretted a few more minutes would set us on shore, and conclude our excursion on the Wye; an excursion which, the farther we proceeded, the more we were interested; and so much so, as to determine a renewal of this pleasing tour, another summer. The wooden bridge thrown over the Wye, at this place, is of very singular construction; the boards forming the flooring are all designedly loose, but prevented, by pegs fattened at the extremity of them, from being carried away by the tide, and by that ingenious contrivance gradually rise and fall with it, which is here frequently known to rise to the extraordinary height of seventy feet.

Not having visited the church, in consequence of the bad weather, at the commencement of our tour, we determined now to inspect it. The entrance, through the western door, is an elegant specimen of Saxon architecture, richly wrought, with three arches; in the inside is the monument of Sir Henry Martin, one of the twelve judges, who presided at the condemnation of Charles I. and was confined in the castle seven and twenty years.

A curious carved one to the Marquis of Worcester and Lady, though not buried here; and another, of the date 1620, to the memory of Mrs. Clayton and her two husbands, both kneeling.

This church originally belonged to the alien Benedictine priory of Strigule, but converted, at the reformation, into the parish church of Chepstow.

Admittance to the celebrated walks of Piercefield can only be obtained on Tuesdays and Fridays. To survey these with that attention which they deserve, occupy several hours; the liveliest description cannot do justice to the rich and bold scenery, with all its accompaniments; the eye can alone receive the impression, for,

“How long so e’er the wanderer roves, each step
Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents
A different picture; new, and yet the same.”

“The winding of the precipice, (says Gilpin) is the magical secret, by which all these enchanting scenes are produced.” At one point, both above and below, as far as the eye can reach, rolls in majestic windings, the river Wye; at another, the Severn, hastening to meet “its sister river,” is discovered, till at last they are both lost in the Bristol Channel; at another, these scenes are concealed, and thick woods, apparently coeval with time itself, and a long range of rock, burst upon “the wanderer,” with irresistible beauty and attraction. The occasional recurrence also of the rude bench, overshadowed by some umbrageous tree, and concealed from the steep precipice below, by thick underwood, allow only glimpses of the surrounding scenery.

The house has received great repairs, and elegantly furnished by the present possessor, Colonel Wood. Every apartment, indeed, has its appropriate embellishments.

* * * * *

I have thus brought my Tour to a conclusion; a Tour, which has been productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely devoid of advantage: it only remains, therefore, for me to add, that the Two Friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit of near eight hundred miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly exclaiming,

“_Cambria_, as thy romantic vales _we_ leave,
And bid farewell to each retiring hill,
Where fond attention seems to linger still,
Tracing the broad bright landscape; much _we_ grieve,
That, mingled with the toiling croud, no more
_We may_ return thy varied views to mark,”

ADDENDA.

_Page_ 44. The church of Tenby is a large, handsome, and antique edifice, and several monuments, bearing an ancient date, worthy of notice.

On the left of the altar, is one to William Rifam, with the following inscription:

Two hundred pounds
and 50 more
He gave this towne
to help the poore.

The use of one on cloth
and coles bestowe
For twelve decrepid mean
and lowe.

Let 50 pounds to five
be yearly lent
The other’s use on Burges’
sonne’s be spent.

On the same side, is a monument to the memory of John Moore, Esq. who, at the age of fifty-eight, and having by his first wife six sons and ten daughters, fell desperately in love, which not being returned, he died of a consumption, at Tenby: the following epitaph is very allusive to his unfortunate catastrophe:

He that from home for love
was hither brought,
Is now brought home, this God
for him hath wrought.

Another monument to Morgan Williams:

Igne probatur
En animus rurfus clare in corpore
Morgan Williams
descended from the heiress of
Robert Ferrar, Bishop of St. Davids
Burnt alive by bigots under Q. Mary;
was lately chief of Gargam
and senior in council at
Madras.
Where Oct. 27, 1690, aged 49 years
He resign’d the President’s chair
and his breath together.
An employment of full 30 years
chronicles the continual
approbation of his conduct
particularly as
chief commissioner of the circuit.

SONNETS.

ADVERTISEMENT.

_THE following_ SONNETS, _the joint production of two Friends_, _were sent to the Author_, _as considered applicable to his Tour_; _it is therefore hoped_, _they may not be unacceptable to the Reader_.

SONNET I.

TO FRIENDSHIP.
_Addressed to the Companion of my Tour_.

O BALMY comfort thro’ this varied maze
Of life! thou best physician to the breast,
With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest,
A thousand arts, a thousand winning ways
Are thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care,
And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour:
Yes, A—, partner of my Cambrian Tour,
Friend of my heart, how gladly do I share
Thy confidence; whate’er my part may be
Hereafter on this shifting stage of life,
This busy theatre of jarring strife,
May health and happiness attend both thee
And thine!—on ONE, thy Heav’nly Guardian trust,
Nor doubt protection—all HIS ways are just.

SONNET II.

_The Contrast of Yesterday_, _and To-day_; _supposed to be written on the Summit of_ SNOWDON.

HOW gay was yesterday!—no storm was heard
To mutter round thy steep! yon sun arose
With golden splendour, and in still repose
Nature majestic thro’ her works appear’d.
To-day, how chang’d!—loud howls the hollow blast!
The thin mists undulate! thy tow’ring height
Is veil’d in tempest, and eternal night!
So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects past
With dreams of future happiness—to-day
In gallant trim his little bark may glide,
On the smooth current of the tranquil tide:
To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms display
A sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep,
Grasps at his prey, and whelms it in the deep.

SONNET III.

_On leaving_ WALES.

WHY bursts the tear, as Cambria, now I leave
Thy wild variety of hill and dale,
Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still?
Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave?
’Tis, that alas! I ne’er may view again
Those haunts, those solitary scenes I love;
But thro’ this vale of tears forsaken rove,
And taste the sad vicissitude of pain?
’Tis, that I sadly breathe a warm adieu,
To long-lost scenes of mutual amity;
’Tis, that I turn, my absent friend, to thee,
“Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!”
For thee my fervent pray’rs to Heav’n ascend,
And may we meet again as friend to friend.

SONNET IV.

_To the Welsh Harp_.

LOV’D instrument! again repeat those sounds,
Those plaintive airs, that thro’ my senses steal,
With melancholy sweet. Their pow’r I feel
Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.
Gently thou lull’st my sufferings to repose,
Inclin’st my heart to ev’ry virtuous deed,
Removing from my mind each dark’ning shade
That clouds my days, increasing all my woes.
Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales,
Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear,
Then dying soft away, comes o’er my ear
In whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales!
Lov’d instrument! again repeat those sounds,
Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.

SONNET V.

_Supposed to be written by Moon-light_, _on the Sea-shore_, _at_ TENBIGH.

I LOVE to mark the silver-curling spray,
Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows,
And ocean slumbers in serene repose;
While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance play
Upon its surface: yet ere long, that tide
May heave its foaming billows to the shore,
And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar.
See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide,
Can lull each gust of passion into rest;
Her aid divine, her energy once lost,
In what a sea of angry tumults tost,
Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast!
Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute,
And degradate the man to worse than brute.

SONNET VI.

_On seeing_ LLANGOLLEN VALE.

O THOU, too captious of each airy scheme,
Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say,
Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day,
That mock possession, like a fleeting dream?
Here could I spend, if such had been my lot,
Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poor
Depart unfed, unaided, from my door.
“Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot.
Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by,
Should stand my garden; there the blushing rose
And woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose.
But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eye
Swells with the bursting tear—I think, how few
The road to real happiness pursue!

SONNET VII.

_Prospect of Sun-rise from_ SNOWDON.

HOW grand the scene from this stupendous height!
How awfully sublime! the king of day
Flames in the east; old ocean’s waves display
One globe of fire! one boundless flood of light!
With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies!
While {209} Mona’s flats, ting’d with a golden hue,
Burst with transcendent beauty on the view;
And, Man, thy scarce seen mountains proudly rise.
Nature, beneath, seems prostrate! and my sight
Can hardly grasp the vast immensity!
Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee,
Nature’s great God! Father of life and light!
Who bade the sun his annual circle roll,
Who guides, directs, and animates the whole.

SONNET VIII.

_To my Dog_.

YES, thou hast been companion of my Tour,
And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me,
Thro’ Cambria’s rude and wild variety,
And often sooth’d the solitary hour
With thy caresses; yet false man can claim
Superior reason, claim a mind endued
With love, with faithfulness, and gratitude;
Love, a mere sound, and gratitude, a name.
Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone,
With fond attention shall thy bones be laid,
And a small tribute to thy mem’ry paid,
In these few words, engraven on thy stone:
“Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie,
The truest picture of fidelity!”

* * * * *

_FINIS_.

* * * * *

CHART.

_Route_. _Counties_. _Miles_. _Best Inns_. _Objects most _Page_.
worth
Attention_.—
_Rivers and
noted Bridges_.
Cheltenham Spa to _Gloucester_ Plough Hotel Pump-room-walk— 1
Seat of Earl of
Fauconberg—
Cleave
Hill—Dowdswell
Gloucester — 8 King’s Head Cathedral—Goal— 5
Pin
manufactory—
Isle of
Alney—Severn—
Drawbridge,
called Westgate
Newnham — 12 Bear Garden Cliff, 6–8
at
Westbury—
Flaxley
Abbey—Church
yard view from
Lidney — 8 White Swan Iron works—Mrs. 9
Bathurst’s
Chepstow _Monmouth_ 8 Beaufort Arms Castle—Church— 9–195
Piercefield,
one mile from
Chepstow—
Llanconb
Cliffs—Wye—
Wooden bridge
Newport — 16 King’s Head (Between C. and 10–13
N. Caldecot
Castle—Caerwent
pavement—Ruins
of Caerleon)
Uske—New
bridge—Castle
Cardiff _Glamorgan_ 12 Angel Castle—Goal— 14
Bridge—Taff
Landaff — 3 — Ruins of the 18
Cathedral
Cardiff to Caerphily — 7 Boar’s Head Castle 19
Myther Tidvil — 17 Star Iron works, the 22
largest in the
kingdom—
(Between C. and
M. Pont-y-prid)
Pont Neath Vechan — 14 Angel Falls of 23
Scotenogam—
Lower and Upper
Culhepste—
Lady’s
Cascade—
Porthogo
Cavern—Bwr
Mean—Parthen
and Neath
rivers
Neath — 11 Ship and Castle (Between P. and 26
N. Aperdulas
and Melincourt
waterfalls—The
Knole)
Abbey—Castle—
Copper-works
Swansea — 9 Mackworth Arms View at Britton 28
Ferry—Castle—
Pottery—Tawe
By Oystermouth and Penrice — 20 A poor Situated on the 32
to Cheriton Pot-house Bury—In your
way see
Oystermouth
Castle—Oxwich
Bay—Penrice—
King Arthur’s
stone
Llanelly cross the Bury _Caermarthen_ 7 — Church 33
Kidwely — 9 Pelican Castle 33
Caermarthen — 10 Ivy Bush Castle—Tin 34
works—Bridge
over the Towy
Llaugharne — 12 Castle Castle— 35
Caermarthen Bay
Tenby _Pembroke_ 16 White Lion (Between L. and 37
T. Green
bridge, a
curious
excavation in
the rock)
Castle—Church—
Rocks—Walk on
the sands and
croft
Pembroke — 10 Green Dragon Castle—Bridge— 40
Sail round
Milford Haven
to Hubberstone,
sixteen
miles—Bush, Mr.
Meredith’s
Returned to Tenby — — — —
Haverfordwest — 20 Castle (Between T. and 47
H. Carew
Castle—
Landshipping
Ferry—Picton
Castle)
Castle—Priory
at the
extremity of
the Parade
St. Davids — 16 Black Lion (Between H. and 52
St. Roach
Castle—St.
Bride’s Bay)
Cathedral—
Bishop’s
Palace—Rocking
stone two miles
from St. Davids
Fishguard — 16 — (In your way 53
take the place
where the
French landed)
Gwain river
Newport — 7 — Two miles from 57
N. Druidical
monuments
Cardigan _Cardigan_ 11 Black Lion (Velindre—At 60
Lechryd bridge,
tin
works—Kilgerran
Castle—Follow
the Tyvi to
Cardigan)
Castle—Goal—
Church—St.
Dogmael’s
Abbey, one mile
from Cardigan
Aberaeron — 22 Good Druidical 62
accommodations monuments—
Castle
Aberystwith — 15 Talbot (Between A. and 63
A. Llanwryan
bridge) Walk
round the
Castle—Lead
mines
Havod — 12 Havod Arms Devil’s 67
bridge—Fall of
the Rhyddol—Of
the
Mynach—Havod
house and
grounds
Machynlleth over Plinlimnon _Montgomery_ 27 Eagles The house where 80
Owen Glyndwr
assembled his
parliament—
Dovey
river—Bridge
Talylyn _Merioneth_ 10 Blue Lion (Between M. and 83
T. Dyflas
river) Cader
Idris—Pool of
Three Grains
Dolgelly — 16 Golden Lion Beautiful 84
situation—
Avonvawr river
Barmouth — 8 Corsy Gedol From D. to B. 85
Arms extremely
interesting—
Pleasant walk
on the sands,
and likewise on
the hills over
the town
Harlech — 10 — Castle—A golden 89
torques dug up
here, in the
year 1692
Returned to Barmouth — — — —
Tan-y-bwlch by Dolgelly and — 28 Tan-y-bwlch (Between 99
Falls Dolgelly and
Tan-y-bwlch,
the falls of
Doll-y-mullin—
Cayne—Moddach)
Vale of
Festiniog—Tan-
y-bwlch
hall—River
Dryryd
Beddgelert _Caernarvon_ 8 Tolerable (Between T. and 103
accommodations B.
Pont-aber-
glaslyn—Copper
mines) River
Glaslyn
Llanberris over Snowdon — 16 — Pass of 104
Llanberris—
Dolbadern
Castle—Two
lakes
Caernarvon — 9 Hotel Near C.—River 115
Rhyddol—Bridge—
Castle—Wythwar
mountain—
Religious sect
called Jumpers
Plas-Newydd _Anglesey_ 6 — The Menai—Lord 116
Uxbridge—
Cromlechs
Bangor _Caernarvon_ 4 George and View from the 123
Dragon church-yard—
Cathedral—Cross
the Menai to
Beaumaris—Baron
Hill
Conway — 11½ Bull and Harp (Between C. and 127
B. Castle of
Penrhyn—Pen-
mawn-mawr)
Castle—Church—
College
Abergele _Denbigh_ 11 Tolerable (Between C. and 130
accommodations A. Llandidno
mines—Cavern-
ar-ogo) Walk on
the sands
St. Asaph _Flintshire_ 7 White Lion (Between A. and 133
St. Rhuddlan
Marsh—Castle—
River Clwyd)
Vale of
Clwyd—Cathedral
Denbigh _Denbigh_ 6 Bull Castle—Ruins of 134
an old
church—Vale of
Clwyd
Ruthin — 8 Cross Keys (Between D. and 136
R. Well of St.
Dysnog)
Castle—Church—
Gaol—Bowling
green—Vale of
Clwyd
Wrexham — 16 Eagles Church—Offa’s 140
Dyke—Erthig,
the seat of P.
York,
Esq.—Church of
Marchwiel
Ruabon — 6 — Wynstay 143
park—Obelisk—
Offa’s Dyke
Llangollen — 8 Hand (Between R. and 149
L.
Ponteysyllty—
River Dee)
Bridge over the
Dee—Castle
Dinas Bran—Lady
E. Butler’s
Cottage—Valis
Crucis—Pillar
of Ellseg
Oswestry _Shropshire_ 12 Cross Keys (Between L. and 156
O. Chirk
Castle—
Whittington)
Ruins of a
chapel—Castle
Welch Pool _Montgomery_ 18 Royal Oak (Between O. and 160
W. Llanymynach
Hill—Breddin—
Column to Adm.
Lord Rodney,
recording the
victory over
the French,
April 12,
1782—Virnwy—
Powis Castle)
Montgomery — 8 Dragon Castle and 162
Goal—Ellesmere
canal
Bishops Castle _Shropshire_ 9 Castle — 163
Ludlow _Hereford_ 16 Crown Castle—Church— 164
Cross—Walks
round the
Castle
walls—Bridge—
Teme river
Leominster — 11 Red Lion Market 174
house—Church
Hereford — 12 New Inn Cathedral— 174
Castle
walks—Gaol—Wye
Ross _Monmouth_ 14 Man of Ross Church—View 176
from “The
Prospect”—
Wilton
Castle—Bridge—
Wye
Monmouth — — Beaufort Arms (Between A. and 187
M. Goodrich
Castle—Symond’s
Yatch—
Courtfield
house—New Wier)
Castle
Priory—Town
hall—Walk to
Monmouth
Folly—Wye
Chepstow — 50 Beaufort Arms Castle—Church— 9—195
Piercefield,
one mile from
Chepstow—
Llancomb
Cliff—Wye—
Wooden bridge
(Between M. and
C.
Llandogo—
Tintern
Abbey—Wine
Cliff,
corruption from
Wye Cliff)

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES.

{x} The Rev. WILLIAM COXE, rector of Bemerton, and domestic chaplain to the Lord Bishop of Salisbury.

{8} Atkins’s Gloucestershire.

{9} Grose’s Antiquities.

{11} Warner’s First Walk through Wales.

{12} He was buried in the Cathedral Church of St. David, and many hundred years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.—_Godwin’s English Bishops_, p. 414.

{18a} Willis’s Landaff, p. 34.

{18b} Grose, Willis.

{23} _I.e._ lime-stone.

{27} Vol. ii. p, 92.

{30} Pennarth, eight miles South-west of Swansea.

{32} William of Malmsbury, p. 158.

{39} The Pedestrian will not possibly find time to examine the Ruins of Carew Castle, in this day’s route, but will find it more convenient to visit it in his way from Tenby to Haverfordwest.

{41} The price for two oars, seven shillings and six-pence; and twelve shillings and six-pence for four oars.

{42a} Wyndham, p. 72.

{42b} Philosophical Survey of Ireland.

{47} “The Castle (says an eminent Author) is said to have been built by Gilbert Earl of Clare, who lived in the reign of King Stephen; and Camden reports, that Richard Earl of Clare made Richard Fitz-Tankred Governor thereof. It was one of those in the hands of the Flemings, when they first came into Dyvet, or Pembrokeshire.”

{49} These lines were frequently repeated by Dr. Johnson, whose partiality to Inns is well known.

{51} “This celebrated person was uncle to King Arthur, and son of a Prince of Wales. After being seated in the see of St. David sixty-five years, and having built twelve monasteries; after having been exemplary in the piety of those days, this holy person died, at a most advanced period of human life; having attained, as it is said, to the age of one hundred and forty-six years. He was buried in the Cathedral Church of St. David; and many years after canonized by Pope Calistus the Second.”—_Warrington’s History of Wales_, vol. ii. p. 385.

{52a} To whose son a MS. to Elizabeth, quoted by Willis, p. 69, gives Owen’s monument.

{52b} Tan. Bib. Brit.

{52c} Tan. 720.

{53} This gentleman, I believe, is an inhabitant of Worcester.

{55} Lland, vol. v. p. 25.

{56} For a description of these Monuments, see Wyndham.

{58} It receives its name from _coria_, a hide, or skin.

{61} Itin. vol. v. p. 12.

{63} Over the river Rhydal.

{66} The additions to Camden 1695, suppose this, Bishop Idnerto.

{79} Called in Latin _Vaga_.

{81} See an excellent account of the woollen manufactory in the seventh chapter of Aikin’s Tour through North Wales.

{83} See Pennant’s Snowdonia, p. 89, and likewise Wilson’s excellent View of Cader Idris.

{84} Mr. Pennant, in his Snowdonia, p. 397, published in 1781, “mentions, that there are brought annually to Salop 700,000 yards of web; and to Welch Pool, annually, between 7 and 800,000 yards of flannel; but he does not state the particulars whence he reduces his general estimate.” I have quoted this passage from Aikin’s excellent chapter (vii.) on the Woollen Manufactures of North Wales, not having in my possession Mr. P.’s Snowdonia.

{105} Evan Thomas, works in the copper-works at Aber-Glaslyn, and lives at a place called Dous Coreb, about a mile and an half beyond Beddgelert.

{114} Such is the received opinion; but the place noted for this event, is only a thoroughfare to the grand apartments of the tower, the middle one of which appears more probably to have been the room.

{116} The hire of a boat from seven shillings and six-pence to half-a-guinea.

{118} “The eastern seems originally to have consisted of seven stones, six uprights supporting an immense superincumbent one, (with its flat face lying upon them) thirteen feet long, nearly as much broad, and four feet thick.”—WARNER’S _Second Walk_.

{119a} In the time of the Romans, this island was called, by the Britons, _Mona_; but becoming subject to the English, in the time of Egbert, it was afterwards termed _Anglesea_, or the Englishman’s Island. See ROWLAND’S _Mon. Ant_. p. 172, 173.

{119b} Before the Author of this Itinerary proposed publishing this Tour through the Cambrian territories, he was induced to send an account of this extraordinary sect to the Gentleman’s Magazine, (July, 1799, p. 579.) This is, therefore, only to be considered as a repetition; with the addition of a brief extract from the two subsequent letters, (September, 1799, p. 741, and November, p. 938,) given to the public by different hands, through the medium of the Gentleman’s Magazine.

{122a} I have since understood, that they have a chapel at Caermarthen.

{122b} September, 1799, p. 741.

{125a} Or Deane.

{125b} As from neglect we did not transcribe the names of the bishops, it may not be deemed improper to insert the following passage from a well-known Author: “Here are monuments for Bishops Glynn, 1550; Robinson, 1584; Vaughan, 1597; Rowlands, 1616; Morgan, 1673; and one with a cross fleuri in the south transept, ascribed to Owen Glendwr; but as he was buried at Monington, in Herefordshire, where he died, I should rather ascribe it to some of the earlier bishops; Mr. Pennant gives it to Owen Gwynned.”

{131} Offa.

{144} Since our visit to this spot, Mr. Yorke has published a most excellent and valuable book, entitled, _An History of the Royal Tribes of Wales_.

{147} Enquire the way to this aqueduct at the turnpike, about four miles from Llangollen.

{151a} Lady Eleanor Butler.

{151b} Miss Ponsonby.

{151c} WILLIS’S _St. Asaph_, p. 52, 285.

{152} From a second survey of my note-book, I perceive, when speaking of the house, I omitted mentioning that there are several family pieces, both of the Wynne and Williams, worthy the inspection of the connoisseur. The house has been built at various times.

{161a} The measurement of this gallery is copied from former tourists, at some MS. notes taken on the spot, relative to this castle, and the places coming under our inspection, the two following days, have been accidentally lost.

{161b} See Lord Littleton’s Account of Powis Castle.

{166} This estimation it taken from “The Ludlow Guide;” from which I have taken such extracts, as, I flatter myself, will not be unacceptable to the tourist. We dedicated two or three days to the investigation of this interesting town, and consequently, in those parts where the Guide is defective, we have made considerable additions; and more particularly, when speaking of the church.

{172a} No account of the inside of the church is given in the Ludlow Guide.

{172b} Phillip’s History of Shrewsbury.

{189} Tanner’s Notitia Monastica.

{194} WARNER’S _First Walk_.

{209} The Isles of Anglesey and Man, are discovered from Snowdon.