Chapter IV (6)

With regret we left the delightful situation of Ludlow; and, crossing Lawford’s bridge, we ascended an eminence along a beautiful terrace, commanding a most charming and pleasant country to our left, with the fertile county of Hereford, abounding with orchards, which were all bending with the produce of the year. About two miles from Ludlow, on the right, we paused to admire the delightful seat of Theophilus Richard Solway, Esq. situated on an eminence, and skirted by a rich plantation of wood towards the west: it is called the Lodge. Descending into a bottom, a rich country, studded with farm-houses, soon brought us to the town of

LEOMINSTER,

or Leminster, consisting of one long street. The market-place in the centre, bearing a very old date, and likewise the church, are both deserving of the traveller’s notice. It is situated in a flat, and the country round it is not particularly interesting. From hence a turnpike road, showing to advantage the rich culture of the country, soon brought us within sight of the venerable cathedral of

HEREFORD,

backed by a sloping eminence just rising behind, and beautifully clothed with wood. Being under a particular engagement to meet a party at Ross, to accompany us down the Wye the following day, time would not allow us to investigate this respectable city so minutely as it deserves. Our observations, therefore, were so cursory, that the Hereford Guide must supply the deficiencies in this part of our journal; this neglect the tourist must attribute to our delay at the engaging town of Ludlow.

At Hereford we for some time hesitated respecting the hire of a boat to convey us to Ross; but the exorbitant demand of the boatmen soon determined us to pursue the turnpike road, and follow as near as possible the course of the Wye. The orchards were overcharged with “bending fruit,” and seemed to prognosticate a more favourable cider season than has of late been experienced. The retrospect of the city, with its ancient cathedral, formed a most attracting view; and about three miles a most lovely vale, bounded by the hills of South Wales, arrested our attention. A continuation of the same scenery of orchards, in which Herefordshire so peculiarly abounds, with the road continually dipping into shallow valleys, attended us within five miles of Ross; when, ascending a steep hill, a view of that town, or, rather, of its far-conspicuous spire, broke in upon the reposing character of the scene. This presently conducted us to Wilton bridge, thrown over the Wye; and, leaving the castle to the left, we ascended the town of

ROSS,

to the inn, so celebrated as the original habitation of Mr. Kyrle; more generally known by the name of the Man of Ross. The landlord seems rather to depend upon the custom of strangers, and from this circumstance the inn offers indifferent accommodations. On the bridge we paused a short time to take a view of the meandering Vaga, which here considerably widens. Several pleasure-boats, of various constructions, were riding at anchor, and united to enliven the watery scene; whilst its smooth tranquil surface reflected and reverted every object situated on the banks.

The life and character of Mr. Kyrle has too often been insisted on, and too frequently celebrated in verse, to be again repeated, unless to “point out its moral to the heart;” teaching us that self-approbation can confer an inward happiness superior to all worldly applause; for,

“What nothing earthly gives, or can destroy;
The soul’s calm sunshine, and the heart-felt joy,
Is virtue’s prize.”

Such a bustle pervaded the whole town, of parties assembling here for an aquatic expedition to Monmouth the following day, that with difficulty we obtained a small room. From this circumstance it would be advisable for parties to secure themselves accommodations, during the summer months, a considerable time beforehand; such is the continued assemblage of parties forming for the Wye. A boat likewise should be hired, and by mentioning the number of your party, the landlord will be a proper judge respecting the size. Strangers may pass with pleasure the greatest part of a day in surveying the views in the vicinity of Ross; views which must gratify the most superficial observer, but more particularly from the churchyard. A walk may be preferred through the latter place to the Prospect, so called from the profuse variety of objects in the beautiful and the sublime, which are presented from this spot. The sudden bursts of such a collection of beauties the eye, indeed, cannot contain without gratification. The river below bends itself in the whimsical and fantastical shape of a horse-shoe; this singular wind of the river—the ruins of Wilton Castle—the luxuriant counties of Hereford and Monmouth, and the beautiful Chase Woods, all combine to promote one peculiarly grand and striking effect. To enter into a minute description of objects so various and extensive, is impossible: in fine, to delineate the beauties of the Vaga, with all its accompaniments, would be enumerating every object that is interesting in nature. Having sufficiently contemplated the view from the Prospect, a ramble through the meadows will next prove highly pleasing.

The situation of Ross, though exceedingly beautiful, has nothing in itself to detain attention: the streets are narrow, dirty, and inconvenient. The castle of Wilton, situated on the banks of the Wye, was founded in the reign of King Henry the First: it was formerly a nunnery, from whence the Greys de Wilton derive their title.

Early in the morning we congratulated each other on the favourable state of the weather, and with good spirits provided all the necessaries requisite for our water expedition; the enjoyment of which depends much upon the season. The hire of the boat to Monmouth by water is one pound eleven shillings and sixpence, not including ten shillings for provisions for the men, who likewise expect an additional small sum, after the fatigues of the day. The boat, navigated by three men, will contain ten or twelve people without any inconvenience, and is properly protected by an awning from the heat of the sun. The distance from Ross to Chepstow, by water, is more than forty miles, which strangers occasionally accomplish in one day: but this hurrying method will not allow them an opportunity of inspecting, with proper attention, the various objects which deserve to be noticed; and they cannot possibly find time to leave their boat, and climb the rugged steep banks of the Wye in search of views, which, though visited by the discerning few, yet merit the regard of every amateur of nature’s landscapes. And here it may not be improper to mention, that the boatmen too frequently suffer these most interesting spots to be passed unnoticed by strangers, merely from laziness, or to avoid the delay of a few minutes. Gilpin, in his excellent treatise, Observations on the River Wye, thus analyzes, in the second section, the beauties of the “echoing Vaga,” and divides its constituent parts into—the steepness of its banks, its mazy course, the ground, woods, and rocks, which are its native ornaments, and, lastly, the buildings. To this he might with propriety have added its echoes, the variety of views from its banks, the fishing coracles, which are continually on the river; for all these contribute to form one pleasing and interesting effect.

We embarked on board our boat a little below the town; and the first object which drew our attention was the ivy-mantled walls of Wilton Castle. The annual growth of the few trees which encircle it will in time render it a more picturesque object; it is at present so sufficiently seen from the water as not to require the stranger to disembark for farther inspection. A few yards below we passed under Wilton Bridge, an elegant structure of several arches. From hence, for four or five miles, the banks are tame and uninteresting, and so high above the river as to prevent a prospect of the adjacent country; but a group of cattle, some ruminating on the brink, some browzing on the ashlings which overhung the stream, and others

—“From their sides,
The troublous insects lashing with their tails,
Returning still,”

formed a “rural confusion.” The velocity of the stream shortly brought us to that noble scenery, about four miles from Ross, which so eminently distinguishes and constitutes the beauty of the Wye: before us the noble remains of Goodrich Castle, cresting a steep eminence, enveloped with trees, presented themselves; behind, the thick foliage of Chase Woods closed the picture. The happiest gradation of tints, and the liveliest blending of colours were here conspicuous. On the right hand we landed on the shore, in order to make a minute investigation of the castle: it is certainly a grand ruin, and stands on an eminence, naturally so steep as to render it in former times capable of some resistance against a formidable enemy. On our first entrance into the ruin we naturally indulged reflections on past scenes, contemplated the traces of ancient splendor; and, connecting what remains with what is destroyed, we pondered on the vanity of human art and the ravages of time, which exhibit in this ruin their completest triumph. The warrior who strove to preserve its original grandeur against the attacks of Cromwell is buried in Walford Church, situated on the opposite side of the river, and seen from the castle. The different parts of the building bear evident marks of its having been erected at various times: from a seat in the castle-yard is the most advantageous spot for surveying, in one view, the whole of this ruin: {310} an octagon pillar of light and elegant workmanship, is seen to great advantage through the gateway, and adds considerably to the magnificence of this ancient pile: it now belongs to Dr. Griffin, of Hadnock, the lord of the manor.

To return to our boat, we took a different and more circuitous route, for the purpose of inspecting the remains of Goodrich Priory, now converted into a farm. The chapel has experienced the same vicissitude; and those walls, which formerly re-echoed with the chanting of voices and the solemn peal, now repeat the continued strokes of the flail. In many parts of the walls the initials of names of persons who have long since paid the debt of nature, and left behind no other memorial, are carved with characteristic rudeness, showing to every passing stranger the prevalency of that universal passion—the love of fame. The Gothic windows, and the cross erected on each end of the building, show evident marks of its former purpose. The boat usually meets the passengers at another reach of the river; but it is a plan by no means to be recommended; since by missing a circuit round the castle, its different tints and variety of attitudes, occasioned by one of the boldest sweeps of the Wye, are entirely lost. A short time after we had taken our last retrospect of Goodrich Castle, the spire of Ruredean Church {311} appeared in front, just peeping from among the woody skirts of the forest of Dean; a little below Courtfield House, belonging to Mr. Vaughan, was seen in a very picturesque point of view, with the ruins of the chapel, forming the back-ground. In Courtfield House, tradition reports, the warlike King Henry the Fifth was nursed; and in the church of Welsh Bicknor, situated to the right in a noble amphitheatre enclosed with rocks, first embraced the Christian religion.

A busy scene of craft loading and unloading, and coals shipping for various parts from the quay at Lidbrook, presents a picture of cheerful activity, and forms a pleasing contrast to the quiet, rich, and retired spots we had left behind us: such spots as were well adapted to form the mind of Britain’s glory—the virtuous Henry. The banks now became richly clothed with wood, from the summits of the highest rocks to the water’s edge; and a hill in front, called Rosemary Topping, from the mellow luxuriance of its sides, closed the prospect. Almost every sweep presents a new object to strike the admiration of the spectator; the transitions are sudden, but never so harsh as to disgust. Even the contrast between the embellishments of art we had just left, and the wild rocks which here exhibit nature in her most striking attitudes, gave an additional impression to each other.

We now reached the fine mass of rocks called Coldwell, one of which, Symond’s Yacht to the left, it is customary for company to ascend, in order to view the mazy and circuitous course of the river, and the extensive prospect around. The forest of Dean, the counties of Monmouth, Hereford, and Gloucester, were extended before us, studded with villages, diversified with clusters of half-visible farm-houses; with many a grey steeple, “embosomed high in tufted trees.” In painting the several views from this summit the happiest description would fail; the impression can only be conveyed by the eye. The river here makes a most extraordinary winding round the promontory; and having completed a circuit of more than five miles, flows a second time immediately under Symond’s Yatch. {312} The whole of this mazy course may be traced from this eminence. From hence we discovered a very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, and we reckoned twelve distinct reverberations from the explosion of a gun fired on this spot. It is here again customary for the boatmen to impose on strangers, and if they can prevail on them, during their walk to Symond’s Yacht, will take the boat round the circuit of five miles, and meet them at New Weir, in order that no time should be lost; but this laziness we by no means encouraged; and the whole course of this extraordinary and romantic sweep proved highly gratifying. Goodrich Spire, which we again wound round, presented itself: huge fragments of massy rocks which have rolled down from the precipices opposite Manuck Farm, here almost choked up the course of the stream. The changing attitudes and various hues of Symond’s Yacht, lifting its almost spiral head high above the other rocks, as we receded and drew near it, supplied a combination of tints surprisingly gay and beautiful; and having accomplished a sweep of five miles, we reached, within a quarter of a mile, the spot where we began our ascent to this steep eminence.

The view of New Weir next unfolded itself; but a disagreeable scene here generally occurs, and interrupts the pleasure of contemplation: a large assemblage of beggars, men, women, and children, on the banks, bare-footed and scarcely a rag to cover them, followed our boat, imploring charity; and several almost throwing themselves into the water, to catch your money, which every now and then the bigger seize from the less.

But I have omitted to mention, that before we reached the New Weir, the spire of Haunton on Wye, cresting a hill at the extremity of a long reach, and a fantastic barren rock, jutting out from the green foliage which encircles it, presenting itself bold and conspicuous, formed prominent and interesting features in the landscape; this is called Bearcroft, receiving its appellation from the very respectable and learned counsellor of that name. Several rocks, indeed, particularly in this part of the river, are named by the counsel, who have long made it a practice of exploring the rich and bold scenery of the Wye on their assize circuit. Gilpin, considering New Weir as the second grand scene on the Wye, thus describes it:

“The river is wider than usual in this part, and takes a sweep round a towering promontory of rock, which forms the side screen on the left, and is the grand feature of the view. On the right side of the river the bank forms a woody amphitheatre, following the course of the stream round the promontory: its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet, in the midst of which volumes of thick smoke thrown up at intervals from an iron forge, as its fires receive fresh fuel, add double grandeur to the scene. But what peculiarly marks this view is a circumstance on the water: the whole river at this place makes a precipitate fall, of no great height, indeed, but enough to merit the name of a cascade, though to the eye above the stream it is an object of no consequence. In all the scenes we had yet passed, the water moving with a slow and solemn pace, the objects around kept time, as it were, with it; and every steep and every rock which hung over the river was solemn, tranquil, and majestic. But here the violence of the stream and the roaring of the waters impressed a new character on the scene: all was agitation and uproar; and every steep and every rock stared with wildness and terror.”—The accuracy and elegance of this description, drawn by so masterly a pen, I hope will amply compensate for the length of this quotation. The extensive iron works mentioned in this passage belong to Mr. Partridge.

Below the New Weir a continuation of the same rich scenery still arrested our attention, and rocks and wood seemed to contend which should be most conspicuous; till the winding of the river round Doward’s Rock, on which was formerly a Roman station, brought us under the house of Mr. Hatley, which commands a view of the river as far as Monmouth, when it is terminated by the town and bridge of six arches. As we drew near

MONMOUTH,

the house of Dr. Griffin, situated on an eminence, and a banqueting-room erected by the inhabitants of the place, appeared above the town on the left.

The town of Monmouth lies too low to form a grand appearance from the water, but is, in itself, neat and well-built, and pleasantly situated on the banks of the Wye. As we repaired to our inn, we were both involuntarily led to take a retrospect of the past amusements of the day. The partial gleams of sunshine had given additional tints to the rich and bold scenery, and every thing had conspired to render it a most interesting aquatic excursion. The variety of scenes which Claude would have selected, had he now existed, for his canvass; with rapture, too, would he have caught the tints, and with the happiest effect combined the objects into a picture; kept up our attention, and removed that sameness which too often accompanies water excursions. Such has been the pleasure of our first day’s water expedition; and from the impression it made on us we eagerly looked forward to some future period when we may again retrace views which memory will ever hold dear, and the pleasure be then redoubled with the remembrance of past occurrences.

Opposite the Beaufort Arms, the most convenient inn in the town, is the town-house, handsomely built, with a full-length statue on the outside, facing the street, with this inscription under it: “Henry the Fifth, born at Monmouth, August the ninth, 1387.” On the birth of this warlike and virtuous prince, the charter was granted to the town of Monmouth; it is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, fifteen aldermen, nine constables, two serjeants, and two beadles. The castle now bears few vestiges of its former grandeur; and of the regal dome scarcely a wreck has escaped, through the long lapse of years, and the ravages of time: where a mighty king once gave audience, and where vassals knelt, now assemble the animate appendages of a farm-yard.

Near the castle is a very antiquated house, now converted into a school, the property of the Duke of Beaufort. To this town Wihenoc de Monemue, or Monmouth, in the reign of Henry the First, brought over a convent of Black Monks from St. Florence, and placed them first in the church of St. Cadoc near the castle, and after in the church of St. Mary. It was among other ancient priories seized by the crown during the wars with France, but was restored again, made denison, and continued till the general suppression in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. {317} From hence we walked to the church-yard; close to which is the room where Geoffery of Monmouth composed his well-known history: this is now a day-school. Monmouth has likewise to boast of a free-school founded here from the following curious circumstance; Mr. Jones, a native of Newland, being in distress, left this parish, and went to London, where he engaged himself as servant to a Hamburgh merchant, and proving trusty in his office, he was by degrees advanced, till at length he attained a fortune of his own. Willing to prove how far the charity of his native place would extend towards him, in disguise he applied for that relief which he was enabled to show towards others; but his parish taking no notice of him, referred him to Monmouth, and would not redress his pretended complaints; the latter, however, being more charitably disposed, relieved him according to his wishes. Having thus proved their generosity, he acquainted them of his real situation, and promised to repay their kindness by obliging them in any demand they should request. On this they solicited the foundation of a free-school, which he immediately built, liberally endowed, and which, from that time, has been well supported. The walk to the Folly, we were informed, would have afforded us some beautiful and extensive prospects; the whole of which information we should probably have found true, but the evening closing, we were very reluctantly necessitated to return to our inn.

Early in the morning we renewed our survey of Monmouth. The church first demanded notice: it is a handsome structure, but the inside offers nothing remarkable for the inspection of the antiquary. The gaol, built after the plan of the benevolent Howard, is situated in a healthy spot; and in every respect rendered as commodious and comfortable as such a place will allow for the unfortunate inhabitants. Monmouth, indeed, contains several good houses, and the neighbourhood is respectable. A bridge at the extremity of the town, with the ancient gateway, bears every mark of antiquity.

The hire of a boat from Monmouth to Chepstow is on the same plan as from Ross to Monmouth, the distance being nearly equal. Nothing now remained but to recommence our water excursion; and we accordingly embarked a quarter of a mile below the town, where the river Monnow joins itself with the Wye; from hence Monnow-mouth, or Monmouth. The weather still continued favourable for our schemes: the banks on the left were at first low, but as we receded from the town, the spire of Monmouth in the retrospect, with the Kymin Woods rising from a rock of great height on our left, under which the river meanders, and to our right Pen-y-vall Hill engaged our attention, and was the bold and rich scenery we enjoyed on our first re-embarkation.

The same scenery of rock, wood, and water, which so captivated us on the preceding day, still continued, occasionally diversified by light vessels skimming by our boat, and increasing in number as we approached nearer the sea. The rude hail of the boatmen as they passed, was re-echoed by the rocks; and the dingy white sails of the vessels, which soon disappeared round some bold promontory, were particularly picturesque. Coleman’s Rocks appeared alternately mantled with underwood and pointed crags; large fragments scattered in the river here divide the counties of Monmouth and Gloucester. At Redbrook Hills, the curling smoke issuing from the iron-works formed a pleasing accompaniment to the scenery, and the whole exhibited a picture of industrious labour. These works belong to Mr. Turner: the wood and meadow-land of Whitebrook Hills were finely contrasted with the busy scene at Redbrook. From hence a long reach, with Fidenham Chase Hill, rising conspicuously in the front, brought us to the village of

LLANDOGO,

diversified with cottages from the base to the highest summit of the sloping eminence. This village is about nine miles from Monmouth, and arrests particular observation: here vessels of considerable burden were loading with iron and other commodities for various ports. The appearance of the river here changed; the translucent stream, which had hitherto alternately reflected, as in a mirror, the awful projection of the rocks, and the soft flowery verdure of its banks, was affected by the influence of the tide, and rendered turbid and unpleasant to the sight.

A turn of the river soon brought us to the village of

TINTERN,

where we observed the ruins of a mansion, belonging to Mr. Farmer of Monmouth. This house appears of an old date, and might probably claim the attention of the curious antiquary, was he not so wrapt up in contemplating the venerable abbey, which presents its Gothic pile in solemn majesty. This august building, great in ruins, and awfully grand in appearance, impels the stranger, as it were imperceptibly, to land and inspect its noble arches, tottering pillars, and highly-finished windows: the specimens of ancient architecture, which formerly were delicately wrought by the hand of art, are now finely decked by that of nature. On our first entrance our attention was too much engrossed to exchange the mutual communication of thought; but the care which has been officiously taken to remove every fragment lying scattered through the immense area of the fabric, and the smoothness of the shorn grass, which no scythe should have dared to clip, in a great measure perverts the character of the scene: these circumstances but ill accord with the mutilated walls of an ancient ruin, which has braved the pitiless storms of so many centuries. In this respect we by no means agreed with Mr. Gilpin, who thus describes it: “We excuse—perhaps we approve—the neatness that is introduced within. It may add to the beauty of the scene—to its novelty it undoubtedly does.” But when this disgust was a little abated, we indulged those reflections which scenes of ancient grandeur naturally recall.

This beautiful ruin is cruciform, measuring two hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty-three in breadth; the transept is one hundred and sixty feet long. {321} This Cistertian Abbey was founded by Walter de Clare, in the year 1131, and dedicated to St. Mary in the reign of King Henry VIII. It experienced the same fate with many other monasteries, and was granted at its dissolution to the Earl of Worcester in the year 1537.

“As the Abbey of Tintern,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, “is the most beautiful and picturesque of all our Gothic monuments, so is the situation one of the most sequestered and delightful. One more abounding in that peculiar kind of scenery, which excites the mingled sensations of content, religion, and enthusiasm, it is impossible to behold. There every arch infuses a solemn energy, as it were, into inanimate nature: a sublime antiquity breathes mildly into the heart; and the soul, pure and passionless, appears susceptible of that state of tranquillity, which is the perfection of every earthly wish. Never has Colonna wandered among the woods, surrounding this venerable ruin, standing on the banks of a river, almost as sacred to the imagination as the spot, where the Cephisus and the Ilyssus mingle their waters, but he has wished himself a landscape-painter. He has never sat upon its broken columns and beheld its mutilated fragments; and its waving arches and pillars decorated with festoons of ivy; but he has formed the wish to forsake the world, and resign himself entirely to the tranquil studies of philosophy. Is there a man, my Lelius, too rich, too great, too powerful, for these emotions? Is there one too ignorant, too vain, and too presumptuous, to indulge them? Envy him not! From him the pillars of Palmyra would not draw one sigh; the massacre of Glencoe, the matins of Moscow, or the Sicilian vespers, would elicit no tear.”

As we receded from the banks, Tintern Abbey, with the Gothic fret-work of the eastern window, seemingly bound together by the treillage of ivy, appeared in the most pleasing point of view; sloping hills and rich woods forming a fine back-ground. As we drew nearer

CHEPSTOW,

some most noble rocks, “Nature’s proud bastions,” opened upon us to the left, grander than any we had hitherto admired, and which we had previously determined were inconceivably fine, and surpassed any idea we had formed of the channel of this romantic river. To add to the magnificence of the whole, the setting sun tinged the rocks with the most resplendent colours, and the dewy freshness of the evening improved the charm of the scene; the one enchanting the sense, the other refreshing it. The lofty Wynd Cliff to the right; and Piercefield, with the curious projecting rocks, called the Twelve Apostles and Peter’s Thumb, heighten, to the very extent of beauty, this noble view; gratifying beyond measure to the admirer of nature. Another reach brought us in sight of Chepstow Castle, on a prominent rock, of which it seemed to form a part; noble in situation, and grand in appearance. The handsome new bridge, the rocks, and the scarce visible town, here made a most charming picture: this we enjoyed exceedingly, but regretted a few more minutes would set us on shore, and conclude our excursion on the Wye; an excursion, which, the farther we proceeded the more we were interested; and so much so, as to determine a renewal of this pleasing tour another summer. The former wooden bridge over the Wye at this place was of very singular construction; the boards forming the flooring were all designedly loose, but prevented by pegs, fastened at the extremities of them, from being carried away by the tide, and by that ingenious contrivance they gradually rose and fell with it. The tide is here frequently known to rise to the extraordinary height of seventy feet.

Not having visited the church in consequence of the bad weather at the commencement of our tour, we determined now to inspect it. The entrance through the western door is an elegant specimen of Saxon architecture, richly wrought, with three arches; in the inside is the monument of Henry Marten, one of the regicides who presided at the condemnation of King Charles I., and was confined in the castle twenty years. It contains also a cenotaph to the memory of the Marquis of Worcester, and a tomb dated 1620, to the memory of Mrs. Clayton and her two husbands, who are both represented as kneeling. This church originally belonged to the alien Benedictine priory of Strigule, but was converted at the Reformation into the parish church of Chepstow.

Admittance to the celebrated walks of Piercefield can only be obtained on Tuesdays and Fridays. To survey these with that attention which they deserve, would occupy several hours; the liveliest description cannot do justice to the rich and bold scenery, with all its accompaniments; the eye can alone receive the impression; for,

“How long soe’er the wand’rer roves, each step
Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents
A diff’rent picture; new, and yet the same.”

“The winding of the precipice,” says Gilpin, “is the magical secret by which all these enchanting scenes are produced.” At one point, both above and below, as far as the eye can reach, rolls in majestic windings the river Wye: at another, the Severn, hastening to meet “its sister river,” is discovered, till at last they are both lost in the Bristol Channel: at another, these scenes are concealed, and thick woods, apparently coeval with time itself, and a long range of rock, burst upon “the wanderer” with irresistible beauty and attraction. The occasional recurrence also of the rude beach, overshadowed by some umbrageous tree, and concealed from the steep precipice below by thick underwood, allow only glimpses of the surrounding scenery.

* * * * *

I have thus brought my tour to a conclusion; a tour, which has been productive of much amusement, and, I hope, not entirely devoid of advantage. It only remains, therefore, for me to add, that the two friends, having completed a pedestrian circuit of near eight hundred miles, parted with mutual regret, jointly exclaiming,

“Cambria, as thy romantic vales we leave,
And bid farewell to each retiring hill,
Where fond attention seems to linger still,
Tracing the broad bright landscape; much we grieve
That mingled with the toiling crowd, no more
We may return thy varied views to mark.”

SONNETS.

SONNET I. TO FRIENDSHIP.

ADDRESSED TO THE COMPANION OF MY TOUR.

O balmy comfort through this varied maze
Of life! thou best physician to the breast,
With deep affliction’s venom’d sting opprest,
A thousand arts, a thousand winning ways
Are thine, to smooth the rugged brow of care,
And mitigate misfortune’s keenest hour:
Yes, A. . . ., partner of my Cambrian Tour,
Friend of my heart, how gladly do I share
Thy confidence; whate’er my part may be
Hereafter, on this shifting stage of life,
This busy theatre of jarring strife,
May health and happiness attend both thee
And thine!—on One, thy heavenly Guardian, trust,
Nor doubt protection—all His ways are just.

SONNET II. THE CONTRAST OF YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY.

SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN ON THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON.

How gay was yesterday!—no storm was heard
To mutter round thy steep—yon sun arose
With golden splendour, and in still repose
Nature majestic through her works appear’d.
To-day how changed—loud howls the hollow blast!
The thin mists undulate! thy towering height
Is veil’d in tempest and eternal night!
So ’tis with man! contrasting prospects past
With dreams of future happiness—to-day
In gallant trim his little bark may glide
On the smooth current of the tranquil tide:
To-morrow comes!—the gathering storms display
A sad vicissitude—the whirlwind’s sweep
Grasps at its prey, and whelms it in the deep.

SONNET III. ON LEAVING WALES.

Why bursts the tear, as, Cambria, now I leave
Thy wild variety of dale and hill,
Where fancy, fond intruder, lingers still?
Why do these parting sighs my bosom heave?
’Tis that, alas! I ne’er may view again
Those haunts, those solitary scenes I love;
But through this vale of tears forsaken rove,
And taste the sad vicissitudes of pain:
’Tis that I sadly breathe a warm adieu
To long-lost scenes of mutual amity;
’Tis that I turn, my absent friend, to thee,
“Think on past pleasures, and solicit new!”
For thee my fervent prayers to heaven ascend,
And may we meet again as friend to friend.

SONNET IV. TO THE WELSH HARP.

Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds,
Those plaintive airs, that through my senses steal
With melancholy sweet. Their pow’r I feel
Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.
Gently thou lull’st my sufferings to repose,
Inclin’st my heart to every virtuous deed;
Removing from my mind each dark’ning shade
That clouds my days, increasing all my woes.
Now swelling with the breeze, along thy vales,
Romantic Cambria! the strain I hear,
Then dying soft away, comes o’er my ear
In whispers soft, still wafted by thy gales!
Loved instrument! again repeat those sounds,
Soothing my sadness, healing sorrow’s wounds.

SONNET V.

SUPPOSED TO BE WRITTEN BY MOON-LIGHT, ON THE SEA-SHORE AT TENBY.

I love to mark the silver-curling spray
Just kiss the pebbled shore; the zephyr blows,
And ocean slumbers in serene repose;
While the moon’s beams in quiv’ring radiance play
Upon its surface: yet ere long, that tide
May heave its foaming billows to the shore,
And the sea boil in one tempestuous roar.
See here thy picture, man! reason, thy guide,
Can lull each gust of passion into rest!
Her aid divine, her energy once lost,
In what a sea of angry tumults tost,
Raves the mad whirlwind of thy troubled breast!
Blind passion then can reason’s aid refute,
And degradate the man to worse than brute.

SONNET VI. ON SEEING LLANGOLLEN VALE.

O thou, too captious of each airy scheme,
Fancy! thou dear delusive traitor, say,
Are not thy charms the phantoms of a day,
That mock possession, like a fleeting dream?
Here could I spend, if such had been my lot,
Quiet my life; nor should the shiv’ring poor
Depart unfed, unaided, from my door.
“Content is wealth,” the emblem of my cot.
Here, by the brook, that gently babbles by,
Should stand my garden; there, the blushing rose
And woodbine should their sweetest scent disclose.
But ah! farewell these dreams;—my big full eye
Swells with the bursting tear—I think, how few
The road to real happiness pursue!

SONNET VII. PROSPECT OF SUN-RISE FROM SNOWDON.

How grand the scene from this stupendous height!
How awfully sublime! the king of day
Flames in the east; old Ocean’s waves display
One globe of fire! one boundless flood of light!
With what unclouded lustre blaze the skies!
While Mona’s flats tinged with a golden hue,
Burst with transcendant beauty on the view;
And, Man, {333} thy scarce seen mountains proudly rise.
Nature beneath seems prostrate; and my sight
Can hardly grasp the vast immensity!
Can then the muse attempt to sing of thee,
Nature’s great God! Father of life and light!
Who bade the sun his annual circle roll,
Who guides, directs, and animates the whole.

SONNET VIII. TO MY DOG.

Yes, thou hast been companion of my Tour,
And partner of my toils! hast rov’d with me
Through Cambria’s rude and wild variety,
And often sooth’d the solitary hour
With thy caresses: yet false man can claim
Superior reason, claim a mind endued
With love, with faithfulness and gratitude;
Love a mere sound, and gratitude a name.
Yes, faithful creature! and when thou art gone,
With fond attention shall thy bones be laid;
And a small tribute to thy memory paid
In these few words, engraven on thy stone:
“Here let in peace the faithful Sylvio lie,
The truest picture of fidelity.”

_CHART TO THE CAMBRIAN TOURIST._

Best Inns. Counties. Miles. Route. Objects most Page.
worthy of
Attention—
Rivers and
noted Bridges.
Star, Angel, King’s Oxford Oxford Halls, 1
Arms, and Roebuck Colleges, and
Libraries,
Heythrop (Earl
of Shrewsbury),
Nuneham
Courtney (Earl
Harcourt),
Blenheim
Plough, Fleece, and Gloucester 40 Cheltenham Pump Rooms and 6
George Hotel Walks, Rooms,
seat of Earl of
Fauconberg,
Cleavehill,
Dowdeswell, &c.
&c.
Hop Pole, Star and 9 Tewkesbury Cathedral 9
Garter
Bell, Booth-Hall, 10½ Gloucester Ditto, Pin 11
King’s Head Manufactory,
Isle of Alney,
Gaol, Severn,
Drawbridge,
called Westgate
Bush, Full Moon, 34 Bristol Ditto, St. Mary 13
Talbot, &c. &c. Redcliffe
Church, St.
Vincent’s Rocks
and Clifton,
King’s Weston,
and Lord de
Clifford’s,
Lamplighters’
Hall, and
King’s Road
Bear 12 Newnham Garden Cliff at 23
Westbury,
Flaxley Abbey,
Churchyard,
View from
White Swan 7 Lidney Iron-works, 25
Pitchcock’s
Beaufort Arms, Three Monmouth 8 Chepstow Castle, Church, 25, 322
Cranes Piercefield,
one mile from
Chepstow,
Llancaut
Cliffs, Wye,
and New Bridge
King’s Head, 16 Newport (Between C. and 28
Westgate, and Parrot N. Caldecot
Castle,
Caerwent
Pavement, Ruins
of Caerleon),
Usk, New
Bridge, Castle
— Monmouth, 29
Ragland Castle
and Church,
Usk, Llangibby
Castle, View,
Caerleon, St.
Julians
Angel, Cardiff Arms, Glamorgan 11¼ Cardiff Tredegar House, 34
&c. boundary of
England and
Wales, Cardiff
Castle, Gaol,
Bridge, and
Taff
3 Landaff Cathedral, St. 37
Fajans
Boar’s Head 7 Caerphily Castle, Thorn 39
Hill, and View
Treherne’s Hotel 17 Merthyr Vale of 41
Glamorgan,
Pont-d-Pridd
Iron-works the
largest in the
kingdom
Angel 14 Pont Neath Falls of 47
Vechan Scotenogarm,
Lower and Upper
Culliepste,
Lady’s Cascade,
Porthogo
Cavern, Bwr
Maen, Purthen
and Neath
Rivers
Ship and Castle 11 Neath (Between P. N. 50
and Aberdulas
and Melincourt
Waterfalls, the
Knole) Abbey,
Castle, and
Copper-works
Mackworth Arms 9 Swansea (View at 53
Britton Ferry,)
Castle,
Pottery, Tawe,
Harbour, and
Piers, New Walk
and Rooms
Pot-House 20 Cheriton Oystermouth 57
Castle, Oxwich
Bay, Penrice,
King Arthur’s
Stone
Ditto Caermarthen 16 Kidwely Llanelly 59
Church, Kidwely
Castle
Ivy Bush, Boar’s 10 Caermarthen Castle, Tin 60
Head Works, Bridge
over the Towy
Castle 12¼ Llaugharne Llaugharne 67
Castle,
Caermarthen Bay
Cobourg Hotel Pembroke 16 Tenby (Between L. and 68
T. Green
Bridge, a
curious
excavation in
the Rock)
Castle, Church,
Rocks, Walls,
&c.
Green Dragon 10 Pembroke Castle, Bridge, 73
sail round
Milford Haven,
to Hubberstone,
Tour by Mr.
Fenton, &c. &c.
Hotel 16 Milford Dock Yards, 82
Observatory,
&c.
— Tenby 83
Blue Boar, Castle 20 Haverfordwest Carew Castle, 87
Cresseley,
Landshipping,
Picton Castle,
Slebitch and
Church, Priory
at the end of
the Parade
Black Lion 16 St. David’s (Between H. and 89
R. Castle, St.
Bride’s Bay)
Cathedral,
Bishop’s
Palace; Rocking
Stone, two
miles from St.
David’s
16 Fishguard In your way, 95
take the place
where the
French landed,
Gwain River
7 Newport Two miles from 97
N. Druidical
Monuments
Black Lion Cardigan 11 Cardigan Velindre, Tin 100
Works,
Kilgerran
Castle, River
Tyvi, Castle,
Church, St.
Doegmal’s Abbey
Good Accommodation 22 Aberaeron Druidical 101
Monuments and
Castle
Talbot, Gogerthan 15 Aberystwith Fine Views, 102
Arms Llanrysted,
Llanryan
Bridge, Castle,
and walk round,
Lead Mines
Havod Arms 12 Havod Devil’s Bridge, 112
Fall of the
Rhyddol, of the
Mynach, Havod
House and
Grounds
Eagles Montgomery 27 Machynlleth Plinlimmon, 121
source of the
Severn, &c.
Owen Glyndwr’s
Mansion, Dovey
River, Bridge
Blue Lion Merioneth 10 Talylyn (Between M. and 123
T. Dyflas
River) Cader
Idris, Pool of
Three Grains
Lion, Ship, Angel 16 Dolgelly Beautiful 124
situation,
Avon-vwar
River,
excursions to
the Vale of the
Dee, Caer Gai
at the end of
the Lake of
Bala, and Dinas
y Mowddwy
Corsy-Gedol Arms 8 Barmouth From D. to B. 134
extremely
interesting,
pleasant walks
on the sands,
and likewise on
the hills over
the town
Inn 10 Harlech Castle, a 137
golden Torques
dug up in 1682
(between B. and
H. Corsy Gedol)
Barmouth By Dolgelly to 139
Travellers’
Rest, Fall of
Doly Melynllyn,
Ditto Cayne and
Moddach, Vale
of Festiniog
Merioneth 28 Tan-y-bwlch by Tan-y-bwlch 146
Dolgelly and Hall, Vale of
Falls Festiniog,
River Dayryd,
Maentwrog,
Tremadoc
Caernarvon Criccaeth Tany-yr-alet, 149
Castle,
excursion by
sea to the Isle
of Bardsey,
pass a Bay
called Hell’s
Mouth
Bardsey Fine view of 151
the coast,
Abbot’s House
and Chapel
Crown and Anchor 45 Pwlheli About five 157
miles from P.
Carn-Madryn, an
ancient
fortress
Goat, a good Inn 20 Beddgelert Several 164
Cromlechs,
Penmorfa,
Tremadoc, and
embankments,
Morva Lodge,
Pont Aber
Glaslyn
6 Snowdon Beddgelert 170
Church and
Vale, V. of
Nanhwynan, and
Dinas Emrys,
Pass of
Drwsycoed,
ascent and view
from Snowdon
Anglesea Arms and 12 Caernarvon Vale of 185
Goat Llanberries,
Dolbadern
Castle, Two
Lakes, Caunant
Mawr, and Caer
cwm-y Glô,
bridge over the
Seiont, Castle,
Chapel, ruins
of Segontium,
ancient Fort on
the Seiont, &c.
&c.
Anglesea 6 Plâs Newydd Fine view of 191
the Menai, the
elegant new
mansion,
Cromlechs and
Carnedd,
Saunderson’s
Cottage
Penrhyn Arms, Caernarvon 4 Bangor, from P. Beautiful 199
Castle, and Albion N. situation of,
Hotel Cathedral, view
from the
Church-yard,
recent
improvements,
Bridge over the
Menai, &c.
Bull’s Head Anglesea Beaumaris Fine views from 210
the new road,
Castle, Church,
Baron Hill, the
Friars,
Priestholme
Island
Ty Mawr 16 Amlwch Dulas and Red 217
Wharf Bay,
pretty village
and church of
Pentraeth,
Llanelian,
Pary’s Mountain
Eagle and Child and 20 Holyhead The Church, and 218
Hibernian-Hotel walls of the
Church-yard,
new Pier,
cavern called
the Parliament
House. The
steam packets
Penrhyn Arms, Caernarvon 27 Bangor Excursion to 221
Castle, and Albion Penrhyn Castle,
Hotel Slate Quarries,
Lime Grove,
Llandegai
Church, Ogwen
Bank, Benglog,
&c. about 20
miles
Harp and Newborough 15 Conway (Aber and the 240
Arms Lavan Sands,
Pen-maen-mawr,)
at Conway the
Castle, Plâs
Mawr, Abbey,
College
40 Ditto Excursion to 244
Caer Rhun,
Rhaiadar Mawr,
Llanrwst, Falls
of the Conway
and Machno,
about 40 miles
Bee Inn Denbigh 20 Abergele by the (Dinas Gonway, 250
Cridden Gloddaith and
Bodysgallen,
the Orme’s
head, Gywddno’s
Weir,
Cavern-arago,)
Walk on the
sands
White Lion Flint 7 St. Asaph (Between A. and 252
St. A. Rhuddlan
Marsh,)
Cathedral and
view from its
tower, Bishop’s
Palace and
Deanery
White Horse and 10 Holywell (Between St. A. 255
King’s Arms and H. the
value of Clywd;
to the right a
Roman Pharos;)
St. Winifred’s
Well, various
Mills; one mile
and a quarter
north, Ruins of
Basing-werk
Abbey
Royal Oak 6 Flint Castle, Goal, 256
and
Smelting-house,
(between F. and
Chester ruins
of Euloe Castle
and Hawarden
ditto)
Coach and Horses, Chester 15 Chester Castle, Walls, 258
Hotel, Feathers, Hop Rows, Bishop’s
Pole, &c. &c. Palace,
Hypocaust,
Gaol, and near
C. Eaton Hall
and Park
Black Lion and Flint 11¾ Mold Church Ruins of 267
Leeswood Arms the Castle,
Cotton Spinning
Mills, and near
M. the
Leeswoods and
famous Iron
Gates, Rhual
Crown and Black Bull Denbigh 16¼ Denbigh (From M. to D. 271
visit Kilken
Church, Moel
Famma,) Castle
and fine view
of the Vale of
Clwyd, old
Church
Cross Keys, White 8 Ruthin (Between D. and 273
Lion R. Well of St.
Dyfnog,)
Castle, Church,
Gaol,
Bowling-green,
Vale of Clwyd
Eagles, Red Lion 16 Wrexham Church, Offa’s 276
Dyke, Erthig
the seat of P.
Yorke, Esq.,
Church of
Marchwiel
6 Ruabon Wynnstay Park, 280
Obelisk, Offa’s
Dyke, (between
R. and
Llangollen,
Pontcyscylltir,
Aqueduct and
River Dee)
Hand, King’s Head 8 Llangollen Bridge over the 284
Dee, Castle
Dinas Brân,
Lady E.
Butler’s
Cottage, Valle
Crucis Abbey,
Pillar of
Eliseg
Wynnstay Arms, Cross Salop 12 Oswestry (Between L. and 291
Keys O. Chirk
Castle,
Aqueduct,
Whittington,)
Ruins of a
Chapel, Castle,
Church
Royal Oak, Bear Montgomery 15 Welsh Pool Between O. and 294
W. Llanymynach
Hill, Breddin,
Rodney’s
Column, Virnwy
River, Powis
Castle
Dragon 8 Montgomery Between W. P. 295
and M. fine
view from the
tower of
Cherbury
Church, Castle
and Gaol,
Ellesmere Canal
Castle 9 Bishop’s Castle Does not 296
present any
thing to detain
the Traveller;
midway between
B. C. and L. is
an excellent
Inn
Crown, Angel Hereford 17 Ludlow Castle, Church, 297
Cross, Walks
round the
Castle Walls,
Bridge, Teme
River
Red Lion, Crown, 11 Leominster Market House, 304
King’s Arms Church
City Arms, Green 12 Hereford Cathedral, 305
Dragon, &c. Castle, Walks,
Gaol, Wye, new
Market House
King’s Arms, King’s down the Wye. Ross Splendid 306
Head monument in the
Church, View
from the
Prospect,
Wilton Castle,
and Bridge, Wye
Beaufort Arms, Monmouth Monmouth (Between Ross 316
King’s Head and M. Goodrich
Castle,
Symond’s Yatch,
Courtfield
House, New
Wier,) Castle
Priory, Town
Hall, Walk to
Monmouth Folly,
Wye, Duke of
Beaufort’s
Beaufort Arms, Three 50 Chepstow Castle, Church, 322
Cranes Piercefield,
one mile from
Chepstow,
Llancaut Cliff,
Wye, New
Bridge, between
M. and C.
Llandago,
Tintern Abbey,
Wyn Cliff, a
corruption from
Wye Cliff

INDEX.

Aber, 232

Aberaeron, 101

Aber Garth Celyn, 233

Abergele, 250

Aberystwith, 102

Alney, Isle of, 13

Amlwch, 212, 217

Anglesea, or Mona, Isle of, 206

Avon, 19

Aust, or Old Passage, 22

* * * * *

Bachegraig, 269

Bangor, 199

Bardsey, Isle of, 150

Barmouth, 134

Baron Hill, 210

Bearcroft Rock, 314

Beaumaris, 210

Beddgelert, 164

Benglog, Cataracts of, 227

Bishop’s Castle, 296

Blenheim, 5

Bodfari, 269

Bodscallan, 249

Bosherton Meer, 76

Brecon, 64

Breddin Hills and Column, 294

Bristol, 13

Britton Ferry, 52

Brynkir, 159

Bully Bear, 76

Burford, 6

* * * * *

Cader Idris, 130

Caerleon, 27, 32

Caermarthen, 60, 66

Caernarvon, 185, 195

Caerphily, 39

Caer Rhun, or Canovium, 244

Caerwent, 27

Caerwys, 270

Caldecot Castle, 26

Cannant Mawr, Waterfall of, 184

Capel Curig, 226

Cardiff, 34

Cardigan, 100

Carew Castle, 72, 84

Carreg, 254

Castle Dinas Brân, or Crow Castle, 286

Castle Morlais, 46

Castleton, 75

Cayne, Falls of the, 141

Cheltenham, 6

Chepstow, 25, 322

Chereton, or Stackpool Elidur, 78

Cheriton, 57

Chester, 258

Chirk, 286, 289

Christchurch, 27

Clawdh Offa, or Offa’s Dyke, 281

Cleave Hill, 7

Clenenney, 159

Clifton, 20

Cold Blow, 66

Coldwell Rocks, 312

Coleman’s Rocks, 319

Conway, 240, 246

Courtfield House, 311

Cresseley, 85

Criccaeth, 149

Crickhowel, 63

Cridden, 248

Culhepste, Upper and Lower, 48

Cwmdu, 63

Cwmgu, 64

Cynvel, Pulpit of, 148

Cyttiau Gwyddelod, 238

* * * * *

David’s, Saint, 89

Dee River, 281, 282, 283

Denbigh, 271

Devil’s Bridge, 107

Dinevawr, 65

Dolbadern Castle, 184

Dolgelly, 124

Dolwyddelan Castle, 159, 247

Dol-y-melynlln, 141

Dovey River, 122

Doward’s Rock, 315

Dowdeswell, 7

Downing, (Mr. Pennant’s) 254

Downton Castle, 304

Drwsycoed, Pass of, 169

Dwygyfchi, 237

Dyflas River, 122

Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, 248

Dynas Brân, 286

* * * * *

Eaton Hall, 260

Eisteddfod, 270

Eryri, or Creigaúr Eryri, (Snowdoniana) description of, 178

Euloe Castle, 257

* * * * *

Fauconberg, Earl of, the seat of, 7

Festiniog, Vale of, 146

Fidenham Chase Hill, 319

Fishguard, 95

Flaxley Abbey, 23

Flint, 256

Forest of Deane, 29, 312

* * * * *

Glamorgan, Vale of, 40

Glocester, 11

Gloddaith, 249

Goodrich Castle, 311

Goodrich Priory, 310

Gored Wyddno, or Gywddno’s Weir, 248

Gosddinog, 235

Great Orme’s Head, 249

Green Bridge, 67

Grongar Hill, 66

Gwddu Glâs, 237

Gwydir House, 246

Gwyndy, 221

* * * * *

Harlech, 136

Haverfordwest, 87

Havod, 112

Haunton-on-Wye, 314

Hawarden Castle, 257

Hênllan, 75

Heythrop, 5

Hereford, 305

Holyhead, 218

Holywell, 253

Hubberston, 81, 136

* * * * *

Iestingtown, or Iseton, 75

* * * * *

Kidwelly, 59

Kilgerran Castle, 97

Kilken, the Church of, 268

King John, cruelty of, to the Jews, 15

King’s Weston, 20

Knole Castle, 50

Kymin Woods, 319

Kymmer Abbey, 133

* * * * *

Landshipping, 85

Lantphey Castle, 73

Leeswood, 267

Leominster, 304

Lidbrook Quay, 311

Lidney, 25

Linney Point, 76

Llanarth, 101

Llanbadem Vawr, 107

Llanbeblic, 188

Llanberris, Vale of, 177, 184

Llandaff, 37

Llandogo, 320

Llandegai, 225

Llandovery, 64

Llandudno, 250

Llanelian, 214

Llanelly, 59

Llanettyd, 133

Llanfair, 213

Llanfairfechin, 240

Llangoed, 236

Llangollen, 284

Llanruth, 274

Llanstaphan Castle, 66

Llanstundwy, 157

Llanwrst, 246

Llanymynach, 292

Llaugharne, 67

Llewini Hall, 271

Llyn Ogwen, 229

Loughor, 59

Ludlow, 297

Lysdin, 159

* * * * *

Machynlleth, 121

Maenwrog, 146

Maen y Campiau, 238

Maes Garmon, 268

Malvern Hills, 11

Mannorbeer Castle, 72

Manuck Farm, 313

March Wiel, 278

Mawddach, River and Fall of, 141

Menai, straits of, and ferries over, 187, 191, 192

—, bridge over, description of, 202

Merion Court, 76

Merthyr Tydvil, 42

Milford and Haven, 80, 82

Moel Arthur, 269

Moel Famma and Column, 268

Mold, 267

Mona, or Anglesea, 206

Monkton, 75

Monmouth, 29, 316

Monnow River, 319

Montgomery, 233, 295

Mumbles, 56

Mynach, Falls of, 108, 109

—, bridge over the, or Devil’s Bridge, 107, 108

Mynydd Caer Leon, 244

* * * * *

Nangle, Bay of, and Village, 75

Nanhwynan, Vale of, 169

Nanlley, Lake of, 169

Nanneau Park, 133

Nant, Ffrancon, 227, 229

Natives of Eryri, 178

—, Courtships, Marriages, &c. of, 180

—, modes of burying, 182

Neath, 50

Nevin, 189

Newgin, 88

Newnham, 25

New Passage, 22

Newport (Monmouth) 28, 34

Newport (Pembrokeshire) 97

New Wier, 313, 314

Northleach, 6

Northop, 257

Nuneham Courtney, 5

* * * * *

Oakley Park, 298, 303

Offa’s Dyke, 281

Ogwen, 226

—, Bank and River, 226

Orielton, 75

Oswestry, 291

Oxford, 1

Oxwich Bay, 57

Oystermouth Castle, 56

* * * * *

Pary’s, or Paris Mountain, 209, 217

Pembroke, 73

Penbedw Hall, 269

Pendyffryn, 239

Pen-mawn-mawr, 235

Penmorfa, 160

Pennard, 57

Penpold, (pleasure-house,) fine view from, 21

Penrhyn Castle, 222

Penrice, 57

Pentraeth, 212

Pen-y Vall Hill, 319

Peter’s Thumb, 323

Picton Castle, 85

Piercefield, 324

Pistyll y Cayne, 143

Plâs Gwynn, 212

Plâs Newydd, 191

Plinlimmon, 119

Plymouth Works, 42

Pont-Aber-Glaslyn, 148, 163

Pontcysyllty Aqueduct, 281, 289

Pont Neath Vechan, 47

Pont y Prid, 41

Porthogo Cavern, 49

Powis Castle, 295

Priory Pill, 83

Prospect, view from the, 307

Pwllheli, 157

Pystyll Rhaiadr, 292

* * * * *

Ragland Castle, 29

Ramsey Isle, 95

Redbrook Hills and Ironworks, 319

Red Wharf Bay, 212

Rhaiadr-du, 147

Rhaiadr Mawr, 245

Rhaiadr y Mawdach, 142

Rhôscrowther, 75

Rhuabon, 280

Rhual, 268

Rhuddlan, 251

Rhyddol, Vale of, and River, 103

Roach Castle, 89

Ross, 306

Ruredean Church, 311

Ruthin, 273

* * * * *

St. Asaph, 252

St. Briaval’s, 29

St. Bride’s Bay, 89

St. Clear’s, 66

St. David’s, 89

St. Degmen’s Well, 75

St. Dogmael’s Abbey, 101

St. Fynnon, St. Dyfnog, 273

St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, 76, 79

St. Julian’s, 33

St. Petrocks, 79

St. Stinan’s, or St. Justinian’s Chapel, 95

Segontium, 190

Seint, River and Fort of the, 190

Shirehampton, 21

Slebech, 87

Snowdon, 170

Solva, 89

Stackpool Court, 77

— Elidur, 79

Stretllan, 292

Swansea, 53

Sychnant, 236

Symond’s Yatch, 313

* * * * *

Taff River, 40

Taliesin, 249

Talylyn, 123

Tannad River, 292

Tan y Bwlch, 146

Tenby, 68

Tewkesbury, 9

Tintern and Tintern Abbey, 320

Tower, 267

Towy River, 63

Traeth Mawr, 161

Trecastle, 64

Trefan Hall, 157

Tremadoc, 148, 162

Tredegar House, 34

Twelve Apostles’ Rocks, 323

Tynymaes, 227

Tyvi River, 98

* * * * *

Vale of Clwyd, 253, 271, 272

— Conway, 246

— Festiniog, 146

— Glamorgan, 40

— Llangollen, 285

— the Severn, 294

Valle Crucis Abbey, 288

Velindre, 97

Victoria Alleluiatica, 268

Virnway River, 292

* * * * *

Upton, 11

Usk, 31

* * * * *

Walford Church, 310

Welsh, or British Games, 238

Welsh Pool, 294

Westbury, 23

Wilton Castle and Bridge, 305, 307

Witney, 6

Woodstock, 6

Worm’s Head, 58

Whitebrook Hills, 319

Whittington, 291

Wrexham, 276

Wye River, 307, 308, 309

Wynd Cliff, 323

Wynnstay Park, 280

Ynys-halen, 220

* * * * *

Y-Trivaen, 228

* * * * *

THE END.

* * * * *

LONDON:
GILBERT & RIVINGTON, Printers, St. John’s Square.

FOOTNOTES.