Chapter I: Front Matter

THE CATHEDRALS AND CHURCHES OF THE RHINE

By FRANCIS MILTOUN

AUTHOR OF "THE CATHEDRALS OF NORTHERN FRANCE," "THE CATHEDRALS OF SOUTHERN FRANCE," "DICKENS' LONDON," ETC., WITH NINETY ILLUSTRATIONS, PLANS, AND DIAGRAMS, By BLANCHE McMANUS

BOSTON L. C. Page and Company PUBLISHERS

_Copyright, 1905_ BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY (INCORPORATED)

_All rights reserved_

Published September, 1905 Second Impression, May, 1909

_COLONIAL PRESS_ _Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co._ _Boston, U. S. A._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

Apologia v

I. Introductory 1

II. The Rhine Cities and Towns 13

III. The Church in Germany 29

IV. Some Characteristics of Rhenish Architecture 40

V. The Accessories of German Churches 56

VI. Constance and Schaffhausen 68

VII. Basel and Colmar 83

VIII. Freiburg 93

IX. Strasburg 97

X. Metz 114

XI. Speyer 127

XII. Carlsruhe, Darmstadt, and Wiesbaden 134

XIII. Heidelberg and Mannheim 142

XIV. Worms 149

XV. Frankfort 155

XVI. Mayence 161

XVII. Bacharach, Bingen, and Rudesheim 172

XVIII. Limburg 181

XIX. Coblenz and Boppart 187

XX. Laach and Stolzenfels 194

XXI. Andernach and Sinzig 199

XXII. Trèves 202

XXIII. Bonn 208

XXIV. Godesberg and Rolandseck 226

XXV. Cologne and Its Cathedral 232

XXVI. The Churches of Cologne 264

XXVII. Aix-la-Chapelle 277

XXVIII. Liège 295

XXIX. Düsseldorf, Neuss, and München-Gladbach 304

XXX. Essen and Dortmund 318

XXXI. Emmerich, Clèves, and Xanten 326

XXXII. Arnheim, Utrecht, and Leyden 331

Appendix 347

Index 363

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Cologne Cathedral _Frontispiece_

General View of Leyden facing 8

General View of Düsseldorf facing 24

Worms Cathedral facing 60

Chandelier, Aix-la-Chapelle 64

Font, Limburg 66

Constance Cathedral 70

Coat of Arms, Constance 82

Cathedral Clock, Basel 85

Basel and Its Cathedral facing 86

Coat of Arms, Basel 92

Freiburg Cathedral facing 94

Coat of Arms, Freiburg 96

Ancient Church Foundation, Strasburg (diagram) 101

Strasburg Cathedral facing 102

Coat of Arms, Strasburg 113

Metz 115

Speyer Cathedral 129

Greek Chapel, Wiesbaden facing 140

Coat of Arms, Darmstadt 141

Heidelberg and Its Castle facing 146

Frankfort Cathedral facing 156

Coat of Arms, Frankfort 160

Cenotaph of Drusus, Mayence 162

Mayence Cathedral facing 166

Bacharach 173

Bishop Hatto's Mouse Tower 175

Coat of Arms, Bingen 180

Limburg Cathedral facing 182

Coblenz and Its Bridge facing 190

General View of Boppart facing 192

Coat of Arms, Coblenz 193

Abbey of Laach (restored) 195

Stolzenfels Castle 197

Coat of Arms, Laach 198

General View of Andernach facing 200

Sinzig Church 205

Trèves Cathedral facing 214

Pulpit, Trèves Cathedral 216

Coat of Arms, Trèves 219

General View of Bonn facing 220

Apse, Bonn Cathedral 221

Convent of Nonnenwerth 229

General View of Cologne facing 232

Cologne Cathedral in 1820 254

Stone-masons' Marks, Cologne Cathedral 262

Coat of Arms, Cologne 263

Font, St. Martin's, Cologne 267

Gross St. Martin, Cologne 269

St. Gérêon's, Cologne facing 272

Coat of Arms, Cologne 276

Charlemagne 279

Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral in IXth Century 283

Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral facing 290

Coat of Arms, Aix-la-Chapelle 294

General View of Liège facing 296

Coat of Arms, Liège 303

Neuss Cathedral 309

Coat of Arms, Düsseldorf 317

General View of Essen facing 318

Seven-branched Candlestick, Essen 321

Coat of Arms, Essen 325

St. Victor's, Xanten 329

General View of Arnheim facing 332

General View of Utrecht facing 340

Round Church in the IXth Century, Aix-la-Chapelle (diagram) 347

St. Genevieve, Andernach (diagram) 348

Bonn Cathedral (diagram) 349

St. Castor, Coblenz (diagram) 350

Ancient Cathedral, Cologne (diagram) 351

Present Cathedral, Cologne (diagram) 351

St. Maria in Capitolia, Cologne (diagram) 352

St. Cunibert's, Cologne (diagram) 352

St. Martin's, Cologne (diagram) 353

Church of the Apostles, Cologne (diagram) 353

St. Gérêon's, Cologne (diagram) 353

Crypt, St. Gérêon's, Cologne (diagram) 353

Constance Cathedral (diagram) 354

Freiburg Cathedral (diagram) 355

Abbey of Laach (diagram) 356

Mayence Cathedral (diagram) 358

Gothard Chapel, Mayence (diagram) 358

Abbey Church, München-Gladbach (diagram) 359

St. Quirinus, Neuss (diagram) 359

Schaffhausen Cathedral (diagram) 360

Speyer Cathedral (diagram) 360

Trèves Cathedral (diagram) 361

St. Martin, Worms (diagram) 362

APOLOGIA

_The Rhine provinces stand for all that is best and most characteristic of the ecclesiastical architecture of Germany, as contrasted with that very distinct species known as French pointed or Gothic._

_For this reason the present volume of the series, which follows the Cathedrals of Northern and Southern France, deals with a class of ecclesiastical architecture entirely different from the light, flamboyant style which has made so many of the great cathedral churches of France preëminently famous._

_Save Cologne, there is no great cathedral, either in Germany or the Low Countries, which in any way rivals the masterpieces of Paris, Reims, or Amiens, or even Lincoln or York in England._

_Strasburg and Metz are in a way reminiscent of much that is French, but in the main the cathedrals and churches of the Rhine are of a species distinct and complete in itself._

_Any consideration of the Rhine cities and towns, and the ecclesiastical monuments which they contain, must perforce deal largely with the picturesque and romantic elements of the river's legendary past._

_Not all of these legends deal with mere romance, as the world well knows. The religious element has ever played a most important part in the greater number of the Rhine legends. For demonstration, one has only to recall the legends of "The Architect of Cologne," of "Bishop Hatto and His Mouse Tower on the Rhine," and of many others relating to the devout men and women who in times past lived their lives here._

_In the Low Countries also,--at Liège, where we have "The Legend of the Liègeois," and at Antwerp, where we have "The Legend of the Blacksmith,"--and indeed throughout the whole Rhine watershed there is abundant material to draw from with respect to the religious legend alone._

_As for the purely romantic legends, like "The Trumpeter of Sackingen" and "The Lorelei," there is manifestly neither room nor occasion for recounting them in a work such as this, and so, frankly, they are intentionally omitted._

_In general, this book aims to be an account of the great churches in the Rhine valley, and of that species of architectural style which is known as Rhenish._

_There is a fund of interesting detail to be gathered in out-of-the-way corners in regard to these grand edifices and their pious founders, but not all of it can be even catalogued here. The most that can be attempted is to point out certain obvious facts in connection with these ecclesiastical monuments, not neglecting the pictorial representation as well._

_Tourists have well worn the roads along both banks of the Rhine, from Cologne to Mayence, but above and below is a still larger and no less interesting country, which has been comparatively neglected._

_Not all the interest of the Rhine lies in its castled crags or its vine-clad slopes, and not all the history of the middle ages emanated from feudal strongholds. The Church here, as in France, played its part and played it gloriously._

_In this discussion of the Rhine churches from Constance to Leyden, the reader will be taken on what might, with considerable license, be called an "architectural tour" of the Rhine, and will be allowed to ramble along the banks of the river, looking in and out of the various religious edifices with which its cities and towns are crowded._

_The valley of the Rhine is no undiscovered land, but it served the purpose of the author and the artist well, for it presents much variety of architectural form, and an abounding and appealing interest by reason of the shadows of the past still lingering over these monuments in stone._

_The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine_