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Chapter I: Front Matter

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Transcriber's note:

Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).

A carat character is used to denote superscription. A
single character following the carat is superscripted
(example: G^t). Multiple superscripted characters are
enclosed by curly brackets (example: Lith^{rs}).

The part of List of Illustrations in Vol. I. related
to Vol. II. is moved to Vol. II. for completenes and
consistency.

THE CITY OF THE SULTAN; AND DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE TURKS, IN 1836.

Day & Haghe Lith^{rs}. to the King.

YÈRÈ BATAN SERAÏ

_Henry Colburn 12 G^t. Marlborough St. 1837_]

THE CITY OF THE SULTAN; AND DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE TURKS, IN 1836.

by

MISS PARDOE,

Author of “Traits and Traditions of Portugal.”

In Two Volumes.

VOL. II.

London: Henry Colburn, Publisher, Great Marlborough Street. 1837.

London: P. Shoberl, Jun., Leicester Street, Leicester Square.

CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Departure for Broussa—Rocky Coast—Moudania—The Custom
House—Translation of the word _Backshich_—The Archbishop of
Broussa—The Boatman’s House—The Dead and the
Living—Laughable Cavalcade—Dense Mists—Fine
Country—Flowers, Birds, and Butterflies—The Coffee Hut—The
Turkish Woman—Broussa in the Distance—The Dried-up
Fountain—Immense Plains—Bohemian Gipsies—Mountain
Streams—Turkish Washerwomen—Fine Old Wall—The Jews’
Quarter—The Turkish Kiosk—Oriental Curiosity—A Dream of
Home Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Ancient Gate—Greek Inscriptions—Mausoleum of Sultan
Orcan—Monkish Chronicle—The Turbedar Hanoum—Inverted
Columns—Painted Pillars—Splendid Marbles—Tombs of the
Imperial Family—The Greek Cross—The Sultan’s
Beard—Mausoleum of Sultan Ali Osman—Monastic Vaults—Ruined
Chapel—Remains of a Greek Palace—Bassi Relievi—Ruined
Fountains—Ancient Fosse—Dense Vegetation—Noble
Prospect—Roman Aqueduct—Valley of the Source—Picturesque
Groups—Coffee-Kiosks—Absence of Pretension among the
Turks—The Tale Teller—Traveller’s Khan—Sick Birds—Roman
Bridge—Armenian Mother 21

CHAPTER III.

Orientalism of Broussa—Costume of the Men—Plain
Women—Turbans and Yashmacs—Facility of Ingress to the
Mosques—Oulou Jamè—Polite Imam—Eastern Quasimodo—Ascent of
the Minaret—The Charshee—Travelling Hyperboles—Silk
Bazàr—Silk Merchants Khan—Fountains of Broussa—Broussa and
Lisbon—The Baths—Wild Flowers—Tzekerghè—Mosque of Sultan
Mourad—Madhouse—Court of the Mosque—Singular
Fountain—Mausoleum of Sultan Mourad—Golden Gate—Local
Legend—The Tomb-house—More Vandalism—Ancient
Turban—Comfortable Cemeteries—Subterranean Vault—Great
Bath—Hot Spring—Baths and Bathers—Miraculous
Baths—Armenian Doctress—Situation of Tzekerghè—Storks and
Tortoises—Turkish Cheltenham 38

CHAPTER IV.

Difficulty of Access to the Chapel of the Howling
Dervishes—Invitation to Visit their Harem—The Chapel—Sects
and Trades—Entrance of the Dervishes—Costume—The
Prayer—Turning Dervishes—Fanatical Suffering—Groans and
Howls—Difficulty of Description—Sectarian Ceremony—Music
versus Madness—Tekiè of the Turning Dervishes 60

CHAPTER V.

Loquacious Barber—Unthrifty Travellers—Mount Olympus—Early
Rising—Aspect of the Country at Dawn—Peasants and
Travellers—Fine View—Peculiarity of Oriental Cities—Stunted
Minarets—Plains and Precipices—Halting-Place—Difficulty of
Ascending the Mountain—Change of Scenery—Repast in the
Desart—Civil Guide—Appearance of the Mount—Snows and
Sunshine—Fatiguing Pilgrimage—Dense Mists—Intense
Cold—Flitting Landscape—The Chibouk—The Giant’s Grave—The
Roofless Hut—Lake of Appollonia—The Wilderness—Dangerous
Descent—Philosophic Guide—Storm among the Mountains—The
Guide at Fault—Happy Discovery—Tempest 72

CHAPTER VI.

The Armenian Quarter of Broussa—Catholics and
Schismatics—Armenian Church—Ugly Saints—Burial Place of the
Bishops—Cloisters—Public School—Mode of Rearing the Silk
Worms—Difference between the European and the Asiatic
Systems—Colour and Quantity of the Produce—Appearance of the
Mulberry Woods 90

CHAPTER VII.

The Cadi’s Wife—Singular Custom—Haïsè Hanoum—The
Odalique—The Cadi—Noisy Enjoyment—Lying in
State—Cachemires—Costume—Unbounded Hospitality of the
Wealthy Turks—The Dancing Girl—Saïryn Hanoum—Contrast 96

CHAPTER VIII.

Tzèkerghè—Bustling Departure—Turkish _Patois_—Waiting Maids
and Serving Men—Characteristic Cavalcade—Chapter of
Accidents—Train of Camels—Halt of the Caravan—Violent
Storm—Archbishop of Broussa—The Old
Palace—Reception-Room—Priestly Humility—Greek
Priests—Worldly and Monastic Clergy—Morals of the
Papas—Asiatic Pebbles—Moudania—Idleness of the
Inhabitants—Decay of the Town—Policy of the Turkish
Government—Departure for Constantinople 106

CHAPTER IX.

Death in the Revel—Marriage of the Princess Mihirmàh—The
Imperial Victim—The First Lover—Court Cabal—Policy of the
Seraskier—The Second Suitor—The Miniature—The Last
Gift—Interview between the Sultan and Mustapha Pasha 118

CHAPTER X.

Yenekeui—The Festival of Fire—Commemorative
Observance—Fondness of the Orientals for
Illumination—Frequency of Fires in Constantinople—Dangerous
Customs—Fire Guard—The Seraskier’s Tower—Disagreeable
Alarum—Namik Pasha—The Festival
Localized—Veronica—Bonfires—Therapia and
Buyukdèrè—Singular Effect of Light—The Armenian Heroine—A
Wild Dream 134

CHAPTER XI.

A Chapter on Caïques—The Sultan’s Barge—Princes and
Pashas—The Pasha’s Wife—The Admiralty Barge—The Fruit
Caïque—The Embassy Barge—The Omnibus Caïque—Turkish
Boatmen—The Caïque of Azmè Bey—Pleasant Memories—The
Chevalier Hassuna de Ghies—Natural Politeness of the
Turks—Turkey and Russia—Sultan Mahmoud—Confusion of
Tongues—Arif Bey—Imperial Present—The Fruit of
Constantinople—The Two Banners—The Harem—Azimè Hanoum 143

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