Chapter XI: Part II (4)

Take a Peck of Flour, and a Pound of fine Sugar beaten well into Powder, and sifted; then add a quarter of an Ounce of Cloves, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, and a large Nutmeg, and beat them to powder; put to this some Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water; then take five or six Pounds of Currans well pick'd, and rub'd dry with a coarse Cloth, but not wash'd. Put these with your Fruit, and a little Salt into the Flour; then take as much Cream as you think proper: then melt two Pounds of Butter, to mix with it, and add a Pint of Canary-Wine, and kneed it with some fresh Ale-Yeast, till it rises under your hand. Have your Oven hot before you put it in the Hoop for Baking.

Of the Baking of Fruit. From Mr. _L. M._

It is to be observed, that all Fruits that are ripe require little baking, and those which are of the hardest, or most unripe Sorts, ought to have a long and gentle baking. In Pears, for example, when we have some of those, which ripen in the Autumn, they will bake with a Tart; for as they are ripe of themselves, they require very little baking, for Ripeness is one degree tending to Rottenness; and as that is done by heat gently, so the Oven brings that to a certain height, suddenly, with its safeguard of Sugar; that the Fruit comes to its full flavour, with the additional beauty, from the Sugar. It would have done a great deal by Nature itself, if the Tree had stood in a place agreeable; but much more would it be for those baking Pears, as we call them, if they had the advantage of a good Climate; one may guess then how much difference there is between one and the other. In the tough and hard Pears, one ought to bake them twice, that is, once with a little Water and Sugar, in as hot an Oven as they bake Bread in; and then put them in Pyes, and bake them over again, so will they become tender, well tasted, and of a fine colour. But be it as it will, as soon as either of these come out of the Oven, pour some Cream over them, and mix it with them, if they are to be served hot, mashing the Fruit all the while; but if they are to be served cold, then only pour some Cream over them, when they just come from the Oven, and let it remain till you serve it cold.

There is one way which is practised by some, and that is, to break the hard Pears, just when they are taken out of the Oven, in the Pye; for else the outsides, though the Rind is off, will be hard, and tough: then pour on the Cream. It is to be noted, that all ripe Apples require less baking, and less Sugar, than the hard Apples, which do not become ripe till some Months afterwards. When an Apple, or Pear, for example, is as ripe as it can be in our Climate, it will have some softness, and some sweetness in it, and therefore will require less baking, as baking is only a sort of ripening; and so on the other hand: but we are providentially provided with both Apples and Pears, which are, some ripe sooner, and some ripe later; even that by the end of _July,_ we have some ripe, and some remain hard and sour till _June._ We ought be apprised of the Sorts, to take them in their several Seasons, and not to take the Winter Fruits, for baking, when we have ripe Fruits by us. Many thousand Bushels of Fruit are lost for want of this Caution.

So at any time, when you use Apples, or Pears, for Tarts, Puddings, or Sauces, let them be all of one Sort, and ripe; for, if they are ripe, or towards it, they will soon soften; and if you put two Sorts together, one will be in Pulp very soon, and the other will be hard for an Hour or two, and at length will not be soft. _Memorandum,_ This is not to be disregarded.

To make Paste. From Mrs. _Peasly._

There are many sorts of Paste made, and among them, are some which are made with Eggs, according to the old fashion; but these are always hard, when they are baked, though they will fly and crackle in the Mouth, but they taste like Sticks: while, on the other side, leave out your Eggs, and use Butter and Water only, as in the following Receipts, and your Paste will melt in the Mouth, and be agreeable to the Taste.

If you would have a sweet Paste; then take half a Pound of Butter, and rub it into about a Pound of Flour, with two or three Ounces of double-refined Sugar powder'd, and make it a Paste, with cold Milk, some Sack and Brandy. This is a very good one.

You may also make an hot Paste, for minced Pyes, or such like, by taking a quantity of Flour as you like, and break a Pound or two of Butter into a large Sauce-pan of Water; and when the Butter is melted, make an hollow in the midst of the Flour, and scumming off the Butter, throw it, at times, into the Flour, with some of the boiling hot Water along with it; then, when you have enough for your use, work it into a stiff Paste, and lay it before the Fire, cover'd with a Cloth, and cut off such bits as you want, just when you are going to use them. This Paste does very well for raised Pyes. Some will make this Paste by breaking in a Pound of Butter into a quarter of a Peck of Flour, and then pouring on it some scalding hot Water, enough to work it to a stiff Paste. As for Tarts, one may make the following Puff-Paste. Rub in some Butter into your Flour, and make it into a Paste with Water, and when it is moulded, roll it out till it is about half an Inch thick; then put bits of Butter upon it, about half an Inch asunder, and fold your Paste together, and then fold it again: then roll it again till it becomes of the thickness it was before; and then lay bits of Butter on it, as before directed, and fold it as mention'd above, and roll it again to the thickness of half an Inch; then put on the rest of your Butter, and fold it up, and roll it for the last time, doubling it, and rolling it twice, before you use it. This is very good for Puffs, Puddings, or Petty-Patees.

As for Meat-Pyes, or Pasties, they require another sort of Paste, which is made thus. Rub seven Pounds of Butter into a Peck of Flour, but not too small; then make it into a Paste with Water. It is good for Venison-Pasties, and such like great Pyes.

To dress a Dish of Fish in the best manner. From the same.

To make one of these grand Dishes, you ought always to have some capital sort of Fish, for the middle of the Dish; such as a Turbut, a Jowl of fresh Salmon, a Cod's Head, or a Pike boiled; and this must be adorn'd either with Flounders, Whitings, Soles, Perch, Smelts, or Gudgeons, or Bourn Trouts, which are the small River Trouts, or young Salmon-Fry, according as you can meet with them. This kind of Dish is call'd a Bisque of Fish.

To boil Fresh _Salmon._

If you have fresh Salmon, you wash it with Salt and Water, and according to the Fashion, leave all the Scales on, though some take them off, to prevent that trouble at the Table; for the Skin of the Salmon. is the fattest part of the Fish, and is liked by most People. Lay your Fish thus prepared, into the Pan, where you boil it, and pour in Water, with a sixth part of Vinegar, a little Salt, and a stick of Horse-Radish; this should be boiled pretty quick: thus far for boiling fresh Salmon. The grand Sauce for it you will see at the end of these Receipts, for preparing the several sorts of Fish for the Bisque but if it is served alone, then let the Sauce be as follows. Take a Pint of Shrimps, a Pint of Oysters and their Liquor, and half a Pint of pickled Mushrooms; or else take Shrimps, and the Bodies of two middling Sea-Crabs, or of a couple of Lobsters, the Tail of the Lobsters to be cut in Dice, but use which you have by you. If you have Oysters, stew them a little, in their own Liquor, with some Mace, and whole Pepper, then lay by the Oysters, and put Mushroom Pickle to the Liquor, and dissolve two Anchovies in it; then melt what quantity of Butter you think fit, and mix your prepared Liquor with it, adding a little White Wine, or that may be left out. I should take notice, that just before you melt your Butter, put your Oysters, Shrimps, and Mushrooms, _&c._ into your prepared Liquor to boil up, and then mix all together. _Note,_ The Bodies of the Crabs being well stirred in the Liquor, will thicken it, and render the whole very agreeable.

To boil _Turbut, Flounders,_ or _Plaise, Pike,_ or a _Cod's-Head,_ or _Whitings._

When your Fish are gutted and well wash'd: put them upon your Fish-Plate; the Jacks or Pikes, whether small or great, must have their Tails skewer'd into their Mouths, so that they make a round figure, which is the Fashion. Then put your Fish into the Kettle, into as much Water as will cover them. Put into this Water, an Onion, with some Cloves stuck in it, some Mace, some whole Pepper, a little bunch of sweet Herbs, a stick of Horse-Radish, and half a Lemon. When your Liquor boils, add a little Vinegar, or Verjuice; and when your Fish are boiled enough, let them drain before the Fire. The Sauce for these, if they are served singly, is that directed for the Salmon, or else some melted Butter, Anchovies dissolved in Water, over the Fire, and some Shrimps; or for want of them, if you can get any of the small Crabs, such as they sell in _London,_ about eight or ten a Penny, and no bigger in their Bodies than to contain the quantity of a Golden-Pippin. Take the Inside of the Bodies of these, and thicken your Sauce with them. Or if you have Cray-fish, take the Bodies of them, and mix them well with your Sauce, and cut the Tails in small bits, as big as Pease. The foregoing way of boiling Fish gives them a relish.

To fry _Soles, Flounders, Plaise, Whitings, Smelts,_ and _Gudgeons,_ or such like.

Take a large quantity of Hog's-Seam, or Lard, and melt it in a Pan, till it is very hot; then put in your Fish, prepared as follows; but first you may fry some Bread, in Lengths, as big as one's Finger, to drain for a Garnish.

As for Soles, skin them, and gut them, then flour them well, and toss them into the Pan, turning them once, when you see the upper side of a yellow Colour. When they are enough, put them into a Cullendar to drain before the Fire.

Flounders are only to be gutted, and the Skins wash'd with Water and Salt, and being well dry'd with a Cloth, flour them, and fling them into the Pan, and use them as you did the Soles.

The Plaise are to be done in the same manner as the Flounders.

Whitings must be treated in the same manner as the former.

Smelts must be only rub'd with a coarse Cloth, and then flour'd, and thrown into the Pan.

Gudgeons must be scaled and gutted, well dry'd and flour'd, and thrown into the hot Lard: but take care in all these that you have a quick Fire under them, and not too many in the Pan at one time.

You have now all your Furniture for your Bisque of Fish; but to fry them still crisper, and better, use Sallad-Oil instead of Hogs-Lard; or if you have neither of these, you may use good dripping of Beef, or Mutton, but there must be enough of it, and it should be as hot as possible, in the Pan, when you throw your Fish in. Serve these with melted Butter, and Anchovy Liquor, with Shrimps, or Oysters, if they are single.

To broil _Whitings._

Clean your Whitings, with Water and Salt, after they are gutted, and drying them thoroughly, flour them well, then lay them on the Grid-Iron, first rubbing it with a little Chalk. As you find them enough on one side, turn them, and serve them, if they go to the Table alone, with Butter melted, some Anchovy Liquor, and Oyster Sauce; these may make one of your grand Dishes of Fish, but fry'd and boiled is enough, because there is never a Dish of this kind, but there are many more at the same Treat, which will give the Cook a great deal of difficulty, and besides you must still in this Dish have some Spitchcot-Eels.

_N.B._ I forbear to mention here the manner of dresing Spitchcot-Eels, as they are already set down in the first part of this Book.

When you fry Whitings, skewer their Tails in their Mouths; and some take off their Skins.

The Grand Dish of Fish, and its Sauce.

When we have prepared these things, with regard to the grand Dish we design, then make the following Sauce: _viz._

Sauce for a Bisque of Fish.

Take a Pint of Gravey, two or three spoonfuls of Mushroom Katchep, and a spoonful or two of Mushroom Pickle; then add about a Gill of White Wine, half an Onion, a slice of Lemon with the Peel, two Anchovies shred, some Cloves, and Mace. When these have boiled half a quarter of an Hour, take out the Onion, and Lemon, and thicken your Liquor, with about three Pounds of Butter, rub'd in a little Flour; then put in the Body of a Crab, or Lobster, Shrimps, Oysters, and Mushrooms, and it is ready to pour over your Fish: but some rather chuse to serve this Sauce in Basons, lest it be too high for every Palate. However, when you have disposed your Fish well in the Dish, garnish with fry'd Bread, Horse-Radish scraped, fry'd Parsley, Lemon sliced and pickled, red Beet-Root sliced, and serve it up hot. If your Sauce is serv'd in Basons; then take care to have one Bason of plain Butter: but if all your Company happens to like the rich Sauce, your Dish of fish will make a much better appearance to have some of the Sauce pour'd over it, before you lay on your Garnish. Remember to lay your Spitchcot Eels near the edge of the Dish.

To broil _Herrings,_ so as to prevent their rising in the Stomach. From the same.

Take fresh Herrings, scale them, gut them, and wash them; and when they are well dry'd with a Cloth, strew them with flour of Ginger, as you would any Fish with Flour, then broil them; and when they are enough, the taste of the Ginger is quite lost: then serve them with Claret, Butter, Salt, and Mustard, made into a Sauce, and they will not at all disturb the Stomach.

A white _Fricassee_ of _Rabbits._ From the same.

Take three or four young Rabbits and cut them to pieces, then put them in a Stew-pan, with four Ounces of Butter; then season them with some Lemon-Peel grated, a little Thyme, a little sweet Marjoram, Pepper, Salt, and a little _Jamaica_, Pepper beaten fine. Let these be close cover'd, and stew them gently, till they are tender; then take about half a Pint of Veal-Broth, an Onion, some Lemon, a Sprig of sweet Marjoram, and some Spice, to your mind, and put to it half a Gill of White Wine. Boil these together six or seven Minutes, then pour away the Butter, in the Stew-pan, and strain your Veal Gravey through a Sieve; then beat the Yolks of four Eggs, with half a Pint of Cream. Then put some of the Broth, by degrees, to the Eggs and Cream, keeping them stirring, lest they curdle, and you may put to it some Parsley boil'd tender, and shred small; then put it to the Rabbits, and toss them up thick with Butter, adding some pickled Mushrooms, and serve them hot with a Garnish of sliced Lemon, and red Beet-Root pickled.

A _Neat's-Tongue_ roasted. From the same.

Take a large Neat's-Tongue, that has lain three Weeks in Salts mixed in the following manner. Take a quarter of a Pound of Salt-Petre, half a Pound of Bay-Salt, and three Pints of common Salt. This is enough to salt four Tongues: let them be rubb'd well with this Mixture, and kept in a cool place. Take, I say, one of these Tongues, and boil it till the Skin will come off; and when it is stript of its Skin, stick it with Cloves, about an Inch asunder, then put it on a Spit, and wrap a Veal-Cawl over it, till it is enough; then take off the Cawl, and just froth it up, and serve it in a Dish with Gravey. _Note_, The Cawl will keep the outside tender, which otherwise would be hard. One must serve with it, in Saucers, of the following: Grate a Penny-Loaf into about a Pint of Water, and half as much Claret; then boil it thick, with two or three chips of Cinnamon, then sweeten it to your mind, as you please: strew some sifted raspings of Bread about the Dish, and garnish with Lemon sliced.

To dress a _Cow-Heel._ From the same.

Take out the Bones, and clean it, cut it to pieces, and wash it; then flour it, and strew over it a little Pepper and Salt, then fry it brown in Hog's-Lard, made very hot in the Pan. Prepare at the same time some small Onions boiled whole, till they are tender, and pull off as many of the Coats or Skins, till you see them pure white; then make a Sauce of Gravey, some White-Wine, Nutmeg, and a little whole Spice, with a little Salt and Pepper, and thicken it with burnt Butter. Let your Onions, when they are skin'd, be made hot in Milk, and lay them whole in the Dish, with the Cow-Heel, and pour the Sauce over the whole. Some who have strong Stomachs will slice Onions, and flouring them well, fry them with with the Cow-Heel, but this must be fry'd in Butter.

To make _Marmalade_ of _Quinces._ From the same.

Take the large _Portugal_ Quinces, pare them, and take out the Cores; then cut each Quince in eight Parts, and throw them in Water; then boil the Parings, and such of the Quinces as are of the worse sort, in two Quarts of Water, till the Liquor is reduced to half the quantity: when this is strain'd, put the Liquor into your Preserving-Pan, with a Pound of fine Sugar powder'd, with two Pounds of Quinces: boil these gently, till they are tender. Then if you design your Marmalade for mixing with Apples in Pyes or Tarts, put to them a Pound more of Sugar to each two Pounds; break them with a Spoon, and boil them briskly, keeping them stirring all the while: then put them hot into the Gally-pot, when they are thick, and of a reddish Colour. To heighten their redness, and keep them from burning to the bottom, put into the Pan four or five pieces of pure Tin, as big as Half-Crowns. But if you would have your Marmalade fine for Glasses, then, when they are boil'd tender, take them out of the Liquor, and beat them well in a Marble Mortar, and rub them through a Sieve; then put to them a Pound of fine Sugar, and stir them well in the Liquor; boil them quick, stirring them all the while, till they grow thick.

_Memorandum_, While they are boiling the second time, put in some pieces of Tin, as before, and when they are enough, pour them hot into your Glasses or Cups, first taking out the Pieces of Tin; and when your Marmalade is cool, cover your Glasses and Cups with white Paper.

Boil'd _Tench._ From the same.

Take Tench, fresh from the Pond, gut them, and clear them from their Scales; then put them into a Stew-pan, with as much Water as will cover them, some Salt, some whole Pepper, some Lemon-Peel, a stick of Horse Radish, a bunch of sweet Herbs, and a few Cloves; then boil them till they are tender, and when they are enough, take some of the Liquor, and put to it a Glass of White Wine, and a little Lemon-juice, or Verjuice, and an Anchovy shred. Then boil it a few Minutes, and thicken it with Butter rubb'd in Flour, tossing up a Pint of Shrimps with the Sauce, and pour it over the Fish. Serve it with garnish of fry'd Bread, cut the length of one's Finger, some Slices of Lemon and Horse-Radish scraped, with some pickled Mushrooms, if you will, or you may toss up some of them in the Sauce.

To bake _Tench._ From Lady G.

Take your Tench, fresh from the Pond, gut them, and clean them from the Scales; then kill them, by giving them an hard stroke on the back of the Head, or else they will live for many Hours, and even jump out of the Pan in the Oven, when they are half enough. Then lay them in a Pan, with some Mushroom Katchep, some strong Gravey, half a Pint of pickled Mushrooms, as much White-Wine as Gravey, three or four large Shallots, an Anchovy or two, two or three slices of fat Bacon, some Pepper, Cloves, and Nutmeg, at pleasure, a little Salt, some Lemon-Peel, and a bunch of sweet Herbs; then break some bits of Butter, and lay them on your Fish, then cover all as close as you can, and give them an Hour's baking.

When they are enough, lay them in a hot Dish, and pour off the Liquor, and strain it, only preserving the Mushrooms; then add to it a spoonful of Lemon-Juice, and thicken your Sauce with the Yolks of four Eggs, beaten with Cream, and mix'd, by degrees, with the Sauce. Pour this over your Fish, and serve it hot with a Garnish of BeetRoots sliced, some slices of Lemon-Peel, and some Horse-Radish scraped.

To roast a _Westphalia-Ham._ From the same.

Boil a Westphalia-Ham, as tender as it will be, with the Gravey in it; then strip off the Skin, put it on a Spit, and having done it over with the Yolk of an Egg, strew it all over with raspings or chippings of Bread finely sifted, and mixt with a little Lemon-Peel grated. Baste it well when it is before the Fire, and drudge it frequently with the above Mixture till it is enough. Some, instead of Roasting it, will prepare it, with a good covering of the aforesaid Mixture, and set it an Hour in the Oven, which answers full as well. Then serve it, with boiled Pidgeons, _Russia_ Cabbages, if you can get them, or Sprouts of Cabbages, curll'd, as big as Tennis-Balls, or Collyflowers, or Brocoli. This is an excellent Dish, especially, if the Cabbages, or Collyflowers, are toss'd up with Butter and Cream, but the Brocoli must only have the Butter pour'd over them.

A Neck of _Mutton_ and _Broth._ From _L. P._ Esq.

The Method of this Broth was first from a mistake, where instead of boiling a Neck of Mutton, as directed, the Cook roasted it. The Gentleman was in a hurry for it, and call'd in half an Hour for his Neck of Mutton and Broth; but the Cook had only that Neck in the House; which she was roasting, and was then above half done: however, she takes it from the Spit, and cut it in pieces, which she presently set over the Fire, with the Gravey that came from it, with a small quantity of Water, and serv'd it up with some Turnips, as soon as possible. The Relish which the Meat had gain'd by roasting, gave the Broth so good a flavour, that it is recommended since that time, by the Gentlemen who eat of it, where-ever they go; but with this addition, that they take four or five _Hertfordshire_ Turnips, pare them, and cut them in dice; then boil them in the Liquor with the half roasted Mutton; and when they are enough, take them out of the Liquor, and draining them a little, flour them, and adding a little Salt, fry them either in Butter very hot, or in Hog's-Lard, and then serve them with Pottage.

Boil'd _Venison,_ with its Furniture. From Mr. _L. L._

Take an Haunch of Venison, salt it well, and let it remain a Week, then boil it, and serve it with a furniture of Collyflowers, _Russia_ Cabbages, some of the _Hertfordshire_ Turnips cut in dice, and boiled in a Net, and toss'd up with Butter and Cream, or else have some of the yellow _French_ Turnips, cut in dice, and boil'd like the former; or we might add some red Beet-Roots boiled in dice, and butter'd in the same manner. Place these regularly, and they will afford a pleasant Variety both to the Eye and the Taste.

_Frogs,_ a white _Fricassee_ of them. From Mr. _Ganeau._

Take large Frogs, and cut off the hinder Legs, strip them of the Skin, and cut off the Feet, and boil them tender in a little Veal-Broth, with whole Pepper, and a little Salt, with a bunch of sweet Herbs, and some Lemon Peel. Stew these with a Shallot, till the Flesh is a little tender; then strain off the Liquor, and thicken it with Cream and Butter; then serve them hot with the Cream, and some Mushrooms pickled, toss'd up with the Sauce, they make a very good Dish, and their Bones being of a very fine Texture, are better to be eaten than those of Larks. But we have in many Places an Aversion to them, as, in some others, some People have to Mushrooms.

_Frogs,_ in a brown _Fricassee._ From the same.

Prepare the Frogs as before, and flour them well; then put them into a Pan of hot Lard, and fry them brown. Then take them and drain them from the Liquor they were fry'd in, and make a Sauce for them of good Gravey, some Lemon-Peel, a Shallot or two, some Spice beaten, a bunch of sweet Herbs, an Anchovy, some pickled Mushrooms and their Liquor, and some Pepper and Salt. Toss up these, thick with Butter, and pour the Sauce over them, putting first a little Claret to it, and some Lemon-Juice. Garnish with broiled Mushroom-Flaps, and Lemon sliced.

_Snails,_ to be dressed with white Sauce. From the same.

Take the large _German_ Snail, early in the Morning; put them, shells and all, into Salt and Water, for a few Hours, till they purge themselves: then put them into fresh Salt and Water, for a few Hours more, and repeat that a third time, then give them a gentle boil in Water and. Salt, in their Shells, and you may then pick them out, with a Pin, as you do Perwinkles, Then stew them in Veal-Broth, with some Cloves, a little Sack, some Mace, and a little Salt. Stew these a little while, and then pour over them this Sauce thicken'd with Cream and Butter, and grate some Nutmeg upon the Sauce, and serve them hot.

_Snails,_ to be drest with brown Sauce. From the same.

Take the same sort of Snail, as above mention'd, and clean it as before; then give them one turn, when they are flour'd, in some hot Butter, or Lard, and drain them. Then pour into the Pan, when, the Liquor is out, some strong Gravey, a Glass of Claret, some Nutmeg, some Spices, and a little Salt, with a little Lemon-Peel grated; and when the Sauce is strong enough, then strain the Sauce, and thicken it with burnt Butter. Then serve them up hot, with a Garnish of sliced Lemon, and some Sippits fry'd in Lard.

A _Gammon_ of a _Badger_ roasted. From Mr. _R. T._ of _Leicestershire._

The Badger is one of the cleanest Creatures, in its Food, of any in the World, and one may suppose that the Flesh of this Creature is not unwholesome. It eats like the finest Pork, and is much sweeter than Pork. Then, just when a Badger is killed, cut off the Gammons, and strip them; then lay them in a Brine of Salt and Water, that will bear an Egg, for a Week or ten Days; then boil it for four or five Hours, and then roast it, strewing it with Flour and rasped Bread sifted. Then put it upon a Spit, as you did before with the _Westphalia_ Ham. Serve it hot with a Garnish of Bacon fry'd in Cutlets, and some Lemon in slices.

To make minc'd Pyes, or _Christmas-_Pyes. From Mrs. _M. C._

Take an Ox-Heart, and parboil it, or a Neat's-Tongue, boil'd without drying or salting, or the Inside of a Surloin of Beef; chop this small, and put to each Pound two Pounds of clean Beef-Suet, cleaned of the Skins and Blood, and chop that as small as the former; then pare, and take the Cores out of eight large Apples, and chop them small, grate then a Two-penny-Loaf; and then add two or three Nutmegs grated, half an Ounce of fresh Cloves, as much Mace, a little Pepper and Salt, and a Pound and a half of Sugar; then grate in some Lemon and Orange-Peel, and squeeze the Juice of six Oranges, and two Lemons, with half a Pint of Sack, and pour this into the Mixture. Take care to put in two Pounds of Currans to every Pound of Meat, and mix it well; then try a little of it over the Fire, in a Sauce-pan, and as it tastes, so add what you think proper to it: put this in an earthen glaz'd Pan, and press it down, and you may keep it till _Candlemas,_ if you make it at _Christmas._

_Memorandum,_ When you put this into your Pyes, press it down, and it will be like a Paste.

When you take these Pyes out of the Oven, put in a Glass of Brandy, or a Glass of Sack or White Wine, into them, and stir it in them.

_Plum-Pottage,_ or _Christmas-Pottage._ From the same.

Take a Leg of Beef, and boil it till it is tender in a sufficient quantity of Water, add two Quarts of red Wine, and two Quarts of old strong Beer; put to these some Cloves, Mace, and Nutmegs, enough to season it, and boil some Apples, pared and freed from the Cores into it, and boil them tender, and break them; and to every Quart of Liquor, put half a Pound of Currans pick'd clean, and rubb'd with a coarse Cloth, without washing. Then add a Pound of Raisins of the Sun, to a Gallon of Liquor, and half a Pound of Prunes. Take out the Beef, and the Broth or Pottage will be fit for use.

_Amber-Rum,_ from _Barbadoes;_ an extra-ordinary way of making it, from that Country.

Take the Preparation of the Scum and Dregs of the Sugar-Canes. Let them ferment, and distil them with the Leaves of the _Platanus_, or Plain-Tree; then put them into a Still again, and hang some Amber powder'd, in a Muslin Bag, in the Cap of the Still, and let all the Steam pass through that, and it will be incomparable good Rum.

A boiled _Goose_ with its Garniture. From the same.

Take a young fat Goose, and salt it, and pepper it, for four Days or a Week; then boil it as you would do other Victuals, till it is tender; then take it from the Pot, and put about it some _Hertfordshire_ Turnips boiled, being first cut in dice, some Carrots boiled, and cut in dice, some small Cabbage-Sprouts, some red Beet-Roots cut in dice, some _French_ yellow Turnips cut in dice, or such other Roots, or Herbs, as you like best. Collyflowers, if they are in season, will do well; but they must all be toss'd up with Cream and Butter, except the _Hertfordshire_ Turnips, which should, after they are boiled, be dry'd in a Cloth, and well flour'd; then fry them in hot Lard, or hot Butter, drain them well, and serve them with the same Sauce.

_Memorandum_, If you have any of the yellow _French_ Turnips, cut them in dice to boil, and when they are enough, treat them in the same manner as you are directed, for the _Hertfordshire_ Turnips. Take care in the buying of the _Hertfordshire_ Turnips, for they are all white; but they require a longer boiling than the red-ringed Turnips: the red-rings are soft presently, when they are good, and the others are near an Hour in boiling, and, even then, feel hard to the Spoon.

_Viper-Soup._ From Mr. _Ganeau._

Take Vipers, alive, and skin them, and cut off their Heads; then cut them in pieces, about two Inches in length, and boil them, with their Hearts, in about a Gallon of Water to eight Vipers, if they are pretty large. Put into the Liquor a little Pepper and Salt, and a Quart of White Wine to a Gallon of Liquor; then put in some Spice, to your mind, and chop the following Herbs, and put into it: Take some Chervill, some white Beet-Cards or Leaves, some Hearts of Cabbage-Lettuce, a Shallot, some Spinach-Leaves, and some Succory. Boil these, and let them be tender; then serve it up hot, with a _French_ Roll in the middle, and garnish with the raspings of Bread sifted, and slices of Lemon.

_Ketchup,_ in Paste. From _Bencoulin_ in the _East-Indies._

There is a Kidney-Bean, we have here, which has a fine relish in it, as the _Indians_ say, but in fact there is none but what they give it by Art. This Bean, when it is full ripe, is taken out of the Shells, and boiled to a Pulp, and that Pulp strain'd till it becomes like Butter; then they put some of all the Spices into it, in Powder, as, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, and Pepper, Garlick, and Orange-Juice, or some Mango Pickle. This being well mix'd together, makes an agreeable Sauce, when it is put in any warm Liquor.

To dry Plums with Sugar. From Mr. _Girarde._

Take large white or red Plums, such as the white _Holland's_-Plum, the _Bonum magnum_, the Royal Dolphin or Imperial Plum. Cut these, and take out the Stones, and to every Pound of Plums, put three quarters of a Pound of Sugar: boil your Sugar with a little Water, to a candy height; then put in your Plums, and boil them gently on a slow Fire; then set them by to cool, and then boil them afresh, taking care that they do not break; then let them lie in their Syrup, three or four Days, and then lay them upon Sieves, to dry, in a warm Oven, turning them upon clean Sieves, twice a day, till they are dry. Then wash them off the clamminess of the Sugar with warm Water, and dry them again in the Oven; and when they are cold, put them up in Boxes, with Papers between them, and keep them in a dry Place.

To make small _Almond-Cakes._ From the same.

Take some Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water, with about two Grains of Amber-Gris, and beat these with a Pound of blanched Almonds, in a Marble Mortar; then take a Pound of fine Sugar powder'd, and finely sifted, and put most of it to the Almonds, when they are well beaten, and mix it well. Then make your Cakes, and lay them on Wafers, and set them in a gentle Oven, on tin Plates; and when they are half baked, boil what Sugar you have left, with some Rose-Water, to a candy height, and, with a Feather, wash the Cakes over with this Liquor, and close your Oven, and let them stand a few Minutes longer.

To preserve _Bullace._ From the same.

Take your Bullace before the Frost has taken them; let them be fresh gather'd, and clear Fruit, scald them in Water: then take their weight in fine Sugar, with a little Water, and boil it to a Syrup; then put in your Bullace, and boil them till the Syrup is very thick, and your Fruit very clear.

To preserve green _Peaches._ From the same.

In some Gardens, where the Trees are pruned and ordered, by a skilful hand, it is often that a Tree will be so full of Fruit, that it is necessary to take away some, when they are green, that the others may swell the better. As this sometimes happens with Peaches, so I shall here direct how to preserve them. Scald your green Peaches in Water, then, with a Cloth, rub the Down from them; then put them, in more Water, over a slow Fire, and let them stew till they are green, keeping them cover'd. Then take their weight in fine Sugar, and with some Water, boil it to a Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises; then put in your Peaches, and boil them till they are clear, and put them up, with the Syrup, in Glasses, or Gally-pots; and when they are cold, cover them with Paper. Note, You must gather your Peaches before the Stone is hard in them, which you may know by putting a Pin through them.

To preserve _Goosberries._ From the same.

The best Goosberries, for this Work, are the white _Dutch_ Goosberry, and the Walnut-Goosberry. Take these, just when they are beginning to turn ripe, pick off the Flower-tuft at the Ends, and stone them; then take to every Pound of Fruit, one Pound and a quarter of fine Sugar beaten and sifted. Boil the Sugar with a little Water to a Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises; then put in your Fruit, and boil them quick till they are clear, and put them in Glasses, boiling the Syrup a little more; then pour it upon them, and when it is cold, cover your Glasses close with Paper.

To candy _Eringo-Roots._ From Mr. _Lufkin_ of _Colchester._

Take the fairest Roots of Eringo, fresh taken out of the Ground, wash them clean, and boil them in several Waters till they are very tender: wash them again, and rub them with a Cloth, to dry as much as they will bear, without breaking, or bruising; slit them, and take out the Pith, and twist two together, like a Screw. Then take to every Pound of Root two Pounds of fine Sugar powder'd, of which Sugar take one Pound at first, and boil it with some Rose-Water, to a Syrup; and then put in your Roots, and boil them till they are clear; then wet the rest of your Sugar with Rose-Water, and boil it to a candy Height; then put in the Roots, and let them boil, shaking them often over the Fire, and when you think they are enough, take them from the Fire, and shake them till they are cold, and almost dry; then lay them upon Dishes to dry thoroughly, and when they are done, put them up in Boxes with white Paper, under and over them, then keep them in a dry place.

To preserve _Grapes_ in _Syrup._ From the same.

The best Grapes for this use, are those of the Fronteniac Kind, of which there are the white and the blue, and the red, which seldom come to ripen in _England_, with their pure flavour. But as Heat is the occasion of ripening; so, though they want it with us, from the Sun, we may make good that deficiency by Fire, which will answer the end fully, and bring them to the highest perfection of Taste, therefore the Sweet-meat made of these is excellent; besides these Grapes for preserving, the _St. Peter_ and the Warner Grapes are very good, and I may mention the grizled Fronteniac, which is a noble Grape, when it is ripe, as well as the others. And for the other Sorts of Grapes, they are not fit for preserving, unless I take in the Raisin Grapes, red and white, and the _Lombardy_ Grape; all which are full of Pulp, and seldom ripen. These are your sorts, and now to proceed.

Take your Grapes, gather'd in a dry Day, though they are not ripe. You may guess when we come to the end of _September_, and they are not so, they never will be ripe: pick them then from the Stalks, and stone them carefully, without breaking much of the Skin, save the Juice; then take the weight of them in fine Sugar powder'd, and boil your Sugar with some Water, wherein Pippins have been boiled before, first straining your Water, and boil them to Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises. And when the Scum rises no more, put in your Grapes, and boil them quick till they are as clear as Crystal, I mean the white Grapes; but the red Sorts, let them boil till they are clear, and that the Syrup will jelly; then put them into Glasses, and when they are cold, cover them close with white Paper; but mark your Papers, which are of the Fronteniac Kinds, for they will have a very different Flavour from the other Sorts, an high richness that is much admired. However, though the other Kinds of Grapes, mention'd in this Receipt, may want a flavour by themselves, you may add some Orange-Flower Water to the Syrup, you make for them, which will give them a fine taste.

_N.B._ Take care that when you make this Preserve, you use only one sort at one time.

To dress a _Calf's-Head_ in a grand Dish. From Mrs. _E. Sympson._

Take a large Calf's-Head, and divide it, cut off the Muzzle, and wash it well; then take the Brains, and wash them, and dry them, and flour them, and put them in a Cloth, and tye them up. Boil these till they are half done; then take them from the Kettle, and cut the Flesh off one side of the Head, in slices, like harsh'd Meat, and the other side of the Head must remain whole, and mark'd only with a sharp Knife, cross-ways. The Brains must lie till the rest are prepared.

Take then the harsh'd part, and with some of the Liquor it was boil'd in, put a Glass of White Wine, a little Mushroom Ketchup, a little Nutmeg grated, and a little Mace beat fine, some Pepper and Salt, some grated Lemon-Peel, and stew them together with a bunch of sweet Herbs, and some Butter. When it is enough, put in a little Juice of Lemon, and thicken it with Cream and Butter, in some of the same Liquor, with the Liquor of Oysters parboil'd, a Pint of Oysters, and as many pickled Mushrooms, which must be toss'd up with your Sauce, when you thicken it, remembring to cut the Eye in pieces, amongst the Harsh.

Then for the other side of the Head, when you have cut the Flesh cross ways, in Diamonds, about an Inch over, beat the Yolks of two or three Eggs, and with a Feather past over it, cover it with the Yolks of Eggs, and then drudge upon it the following Mixture.

Take some Raspings of Bread sifted, put to them some Flour, a little Pepper and Salt, with some Mace and Nutmeg, in powder, and a little sweet Marjoram powder'd, or shred small. Mix these well together; then set it in an Oven, with some bits of Butter upon it, till it is enough, or before a brisk Fire, till the drudging is brown: this must be laid in the middle of the Dish, and the Harsh round it. The Brains must be cut in pieces, and strew'd with a little red Sage cut very small, and a little Spice and Salt; and then every piece, dip'd in a thick Batter, made of Eggs, Flour, and Milk. Fry these well in hot Hog's-Lard, or for want of that, in hot melted Beef-Suet; then take Oysters, a little stew'd in their own Liquor, with Mace, and a little whole Pepper; take off their Fins, and dip them in the same Batter, and fry them as directed above for the Brains. There must be likewise some Pieces of Bread cut the length of one's Finger, and fry'd crisp; all these are by way of Garnish. One may likewise boil some Skirret-Roots, and peel them, and then dip them in the Batter, and fry them crisp. As for the other part of the Garnish, it must be red Beets pickled and sliced, and Lemon sliced.

_Calf's-Head-_Pye. From the same.

Take a large Calf's-Head, divide it, and when it is well cleaned, boil it half enough; then cut it in large slices, and slit the Eyes, season it with Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, and some powder of dry'd sweet Herbs; then lay it in your Paste, with some Pepper and Salt, at the Bottom, with some bits of Butter; then put in the Yolks of twelve hard Eggs, and a farced Meat made in the following manner. Take some Lean of Veal, shred it very small, then take some Eggs butter'd, and a little Pepper and Salt, with other Spice beaten, and some sweet Herbs in powder. Mix this with the Yolk or two of raw Eggs beaten, and make it into a Paste. Then roll it into Balls, and lay a good number of them into the Pye, amongst the Meat; and, if you will, put in half a Pound of Currans well pick'd, and only rubb'd in a Cloth, without washing. Then close your Pye, and just before it goes to the Oven, pour in a Gill of White Wine, and half a Pint of Water; bake it and serve it hot, and you may add, if you will, the following Liquor, _viz._

Take half a Pint of White Wine, and as much Water, with the Juice of a Lemon. Boil these together a Minute or two, then take the Yolks of four Eggs, and beat them well, a quarter of a Pound of Butter, and as much Sugar as you like to make it palatable. Then mix them well together, taking care that it does not curdle, and pour it into your Pye just before you serve it.

_Note_, One may put into this Pye, Cock's-Combs blanched, and some Citron or Lemon-Peel candy'd, if you design it for a sweet Pye; but it is very good, whether we make it a sweet Pye or not.

To bake a _Calf's-Head._ From the same.

Take a Calfs-Head, wash it clean, and divide it; then beat the Yolks of four or five Eggs, and beat them well, and with a Feather, trace that Liquor over the out-side of the Head, and strew over it some raspings of Bread sifted, some Flour, some Pepper and Salt, some Mace and Nutmeg powder'd, with some sweet Herbs powder'd, with a little Sage shred small, and the Brains cut in pieces, and dip'd in thick Batter; then cover the Head with some bits of Butter, and pour in the Pan some White-Wine and Water, with as much Gravey, and cover it close. Then bake it in a quick Oven, and when you serve it, pour on some strong Gravey, and garnish with Lemon sliced, red Beet-Root pickled and sliced, and some fry'd Oysters, and fry'd Bread.

To make Spirit of _Lilley_ of the _Valley._ From _Norway._ N.B. This serves in the room of _Orange-Flower-Water,_ in 'Puddings, and to perfume _Cakes;_ though it is drank as a Dram in _Norway._

Gather your Lilley-of-the-Valley Flowers, when they are dry, and pick them from the Stalks; then put a Quarter of a Pint of them into a Quart of Brandy, and so in proportion, to infuse six or eight Days; then distil it in a cold Still, marking the Bottles, as they are drawn off, which is first, second and third, _&c_. When you have distill'd them, take the first, and so on to the third or fourth, and mix them together, till you have as strong as you desire; and then bottle them, and cork them well, putting a lump of Loaf-Sugar into each Bottle.

Things to be provided, when any great Family is going into the Country, for a Summer. From Mr. _R. S._

Nutmegs. Mace. Cinnamon. Cloves. Pepper. Ginger. _Jamaica_-Pepper. Raisins. Currans. Sugar _Lisbon._ Sugar-Loaf Lump. Sugar double-refin'd. Prunes. Oranges. Lemons. Anchovies. Olives. Capers. Oil for Salads. Vinegar. Verjuice. Tea. Coffee. Chocolate. Almonds. Chesnuts. _French_ Pears.

Sir, I send you this as a _Memorandum_, because when some People go into the Country, many of these Things may be forgot, and it is sometimes the Case, that one must send a Mile or two for what is wanted of them.

_I am Yours,_
R. S.

To salt a _Ham_ in imitation of _Westphalia,_ &c.

Take an Ham of young Pork, and sprinkle it with Salt for one Day, that the Blood may come out; then wipe it dry, and rub it with the following Mixture.

Take a Pound of brown Sugar, a quarter of a Pound of Salt-Petre, half a Pint of Bay-Salt, and three Pints of common Salt. Mix all these together, and stir them in an Iron Pan, over the Fire, till they are pretty hot, and then rub your Ham with it. Turn your Ham often, and let it lie three Weeks; then dry it in a Chimney with Deal Saw-Dust.

To make artificial _Anchovies._ From Mr. _James Randolph_ of _Richmond._

About _February_ you will find, in the River of _Thames_, a large quantity of Bleak, or in _August_ a much larger parcel in Shoals. These Fish are soft, tender, and oily, and much better than Sprats to make any imitation of Anchovies from. Take these, and clean them, and cut off their Heads, and lay them in an earthen glazed Pan, with a Layer of Bay-Salt under them, and another over, a single Row of them; then lay a fresh row of Fish, and Bay-Salt over that; and so continue the same _Stratum super Stratum_, till the Vessel is full, and in a Month you may use them, and afterwards put Vinegar to them. But they will be like Anchovies without Vinegar, only the Vinegar will keep them. Turn them often the first Fortnight.

_Apple-Dumplings_ in an extraordinary way. From Mrs. _Johnson._

Take Golden-Rennets ripe, pare them, and take out their Cores; then cut the Apples into small pieces, and with a large Grater, grate in a Quince, when it has been pared and cored: for if you was to slice in a Quince, to your Apples, in large pieces, the Quince would not be boil'd equally with the Apples; for the Quince is of a tough Nature, and will not boil under twice the time that the Apples will: therefore to grate them, will be enough to give their flavour to the Apple, and make all enough at one time. Put what Sugar you think proper into each Dumpling, when you take it up, and the necessary quantity of Butter. It will then cat like a Marmalade of Quince.

_Note_, The Crust, or Paste, for these Dumplings, must be of a Puff-Paste made with Butter, rubb'd into Flour, and for some other Parts of the Butter, break them into the Paste, and roll them three times, and put in the Apples to the Crust, tying them into a Cloth well flour'd, and boiling them. It may be understood before, that when they are taken up hot, the Ceremony of sugaring and buttering is necessary.

_Apple-Dumplings_ made with Sweet-meats. From the same.

Take fair Apples ripe, pare them, and take out the Cores; then slice them thin, and with a large Grater, grate in some candy'd Orange or Lemon-Peels, and you may put in also some powder'd Clove or Cinnamon, and a little grated Quince, or Quince Marmalade. Put these together, the Apples being first cut in small pieces, into a Puff-Paste, and tye it up in a Cloth. These must be sweeten'd with _Lisbon_-Sugar, when they are taken up, and melted Butter pour'd in: for if you use Loaf-Sugar, though it is powder'd, some of it will be harsh in the Mouth; and the _Lisbon_-Sugar, which is the fattest sort of Sugar, will not, but will give a good flavour to your Fruit.

An _Hog_ barbecued, or broil'd whole. From _Vaux-Hall, Surrey._