Chapter XXI

We reach Vilkoff and Renew our Struggles with the Custom-house--A Remote Town--The Sturgeon Fishery and Caviar--We Push on to the Black Sea--A Gale is Blowing, and We make a Landing with Difficulty--The Roumanian “Cordon”--A Paddle in the Black Sea--We dismantle our Canoes and reach Sulina 312

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Alfred Parsons, Poultney Bigelow and F. D. Millet. _Frontispiece_

Peasant Girl of the Black Forest 2

A Haymaker 3

Donaueschingen Girls 5

The Sketch-book 7

Black Forest Cow Team 10

Spectators 13

The Start--Donaueschingen 17

Pforen 20

Hut for Duck Shooting--Neidingen 22

Max Schneckenburger, Author of “Die Wacht am Rhein” 23

Below Mühlheim, Kallenberg 25

Wernwag 28

Wildenstein 29

The Monks of Beuron 30

Sigmaringen 33

Hohenzollern 34

Nuns at Riedlingen 35

Crossing the Weir--Rottenacker 37

Peasant Girls Mowing 39

Bridge at Rottenacker 40

Wood-sawyer at Ulm 43

From Strasburg to Ulm 44

The Bell Tower--Lauingen 48

Donauwörth 49

The Ferry 51

From Ulm to Straubing 53

Between Weltenburg and Kelheim 54

An Early Visitor 55

Ratisbon from the Bridge 61

Returning from Market, Ratisbon 64

Oberau, near Straubing 65

Local Freight Flat-boat 69

On the Tile-boat 71

From Straubing to Dürrenstein 75

Grein, from the Camp, July 6, 1891 77

Pump at Pöchlarn 81

The Benedictine Monastery, Melk 85

Early Morning Opposite Dürrenstein 89

Dürrenstein 93

From Dürrenstein to Budapest 96

Lumber Raft 98

A Little Girl of Hainburg 103

Peasant Wagon, Hainburg 105

A Hungarian Ferry 107

The Wienerthor, Hainburg 108

The Town Wall, Hainburg 110

Hundsheim 113

Gossips, Hundsheim 116

The Watch-tower, Theben 117

Peasant Girl, Theben 120

Hungarian Cattle 121

Gran (Esztergom) 123

Visegrád 126

Swineherd 127

A Family Wash 130

An Ark-boat 131

Country Market-boat, Budapest 134

Washer-women 137

Duna Földvár 139

Water-carriers, Duna Földvár 142

Fishing-station 143

Peasant Girls at Mohács 146

From Budapest to Belgrade 152

Schokacz Types 154

In Sunday Dress, Monostorszég 157

Hungarian Girls at Bezdán 159

Erdöd 160

Current Mills 162

Vukovár Watermelons 166

A Pig-wallow 167

A Gypsy Girl 171

Threshing Wheat 173

A Croatian Bivouac 175

Ó Szlankamen 176

Servian Women 177

Fortress at the Junction of the Danube and the Save--Belgrade 178

Bulgarian Bozaji, Belgrade 180

Fountain in the Square, Belgrade 182

Semendria 185

Rama 189

Golubáç 191

Roumanian Peasant Girl 194

The Kasan Defile 199

Remains of Trajan’s Road near Orsova 202

From Belgrade to Rustchuk 204

Remains of Trajan’s Bridge, Turnu Severin 207

Roumanian Peasants 209

Servian Fishing-canoes 210

Carrying Water for the Camp--Brza Palanka 213

“Our Guard,” Servian Militia Camp 215

Massing of Servian Troops on the Bulgarian Frontier 217

Drawing Water for the Camp, Brza Palanka 219

Servian Militia, Brza Palanka 223

Building a House in Servia 225

House at Radujeváç 226

Roumanian Picket Guard 227

Bulgarian Fisherman Basket-making 232

Cann, opposite Kalafat 235

Bulgarian Peasant Types 237

Turkish Types 239

Turkish Quarter, Widdin 241

Turkish Vessels 243

Bulgarian Village 245

Becalmed 247

On the Bulgarian Shore, near Rahova 249

Turkish Flat-boat 252

Turkish Women at Sistova 253

Old Mosque, Rustchuk 257

Bulgarian Buffalo Cart 259

Market-place, Silistria 261

Mosque in Silistria 264

From Rustchuk to Sulina 265

Roumanian Peasants Selling Flowers and Fruit 268

Hirsova 270

Gura Ghirlitza 272

Loading Grain at Braila 274

Gipsy Camp at Galatz 277

Galatz 281

Peasants of the Delta 284

Dredging the Delta 287

Turkish Sailing Lotka, Sulina 288

Hills near Matchin 289

Kilia 290

Chatal Saint George 291

Toultcha 293

Windmills of Toultcha 294

Russian Picket Post 297

Fishing-hut among the Reeds 303

A Late Camp 307

Moldavian Peasants: A Windy Day in the Delta 309

Vilkoff 313

Fishing Station on the Black Sea 315

Roumanian Sailors at the “Cordon” 319

The Last Toilet in Camp 323

By the Black Sea 327

THE DANUBE

FROM THE BLACK FOREST TO THE BLACK SEA