Chapter V

INITIATORY LESSONS OUT OF DOORS.--TRICKS.

110. As I before observed, you can practise most of the initiatory lessons in your country walks. Always put something alluring in your pocket to reward your pupil for prompt obedience. Do not take him out unnecessarily in bad weather. On no account let him amuse himself by scraping acquaintance with every idle cur he meets on the way; nor permit him to gambol about the lanes. Let him understand by your manner that there is business at hand. Never let him enter a field before you. _Always keep him at your heels, until you give him the order to be off._ You will find him disposed to presume and encroach. According to the old adage, "Give him an inch, and he will take an ell." He will be endeavoring to lead rather than to follow, and, if he fancies himself unobserved, he will most perseveringly steal inch upon inch in advance. Be ever on the watch, ready to check the _beginning_ of every act of disobedience. Implicit obedience in trifles will insure it in things of more importance.

111. For some time, but the period is uncertain--say from his being eight months old until double that age[20]--he will merely gallop and frisk about, and probably will take diligently to persecuting butterflies. Let him choose what he likes. Don't think he will prize small beer, when he can get champagne. He will leave off noticing inferior articles as he becomes conversant with the taste of game. It is now your main object to get him to hunt; no matter what, so that he is not perpetually running to "heel." And the more timid he is the more you must let him chase, and amuse himself as his fancy dictates. When you see that he is really occupying himself with more serious hunting, _eagerly_ searching for small birds, especially larks, you must begin instructing him how to quarter his ground to the greatest advantage, _under your constant direction_. Should any one join you, or anything occur likely to prevent your giving him your strictest attention, on no account permit him to range--keep him to "heel" until you are quite prepared to watch and control all his movements. Hunt him where he is least likely to find game, for he will take to quartering his ground far more regularly, under your guidance, where his attention is least distracted by any scent. The taint of partridge would be almost sure to make him deviate from the true line on which you are anxious he should work. Labor now diligently, if possible daily, though not for many hours a day; for be assured a good method of ranging can only be implanted when he is young.

112. Should your pup be so long before taking to hunting that your patience becomes exhausted, let an older dog accompany you a few times. When _he_ finds birds, gradually bring the young one upon them from leeward, and let him spring them. Encourage him to sniff the ground they have quitted, and allow him to run riot on the haunt. After that enjoyment, the example of the old dog will most likely soon make him range, and employ his nose in seeking a repetition of what has afforded him such unexpected delight. If it does not, and the old dog is steady and good-humored enough to bear the annoyance cheerfully, couple the young one to him. Before this he should have learned to work kindly in couples--44. But I am getting on too fast, and swerving from the track I had marked for myself. By-and-by I will tell you how I think you should instruct your youngster to quarter his ground to the best advantage--127, &c.

113. Common sense shows that you ought not to correct your dog for disobedience, unless you are certain that he knows his fault. Now you will see that the initiatory lessons I recommend must give him that knowledge, for they explain to him the meaning of almost all the signs and words of command you will have to employ when shooting. That knowledge, too, is imparted by a system of rewards, not punishments. Your object is not to break his spirit, but his self-will. With his obedience you gain his affection. The greatest hardship admissible, in this early stage of his education, is a strong jerk of the checkcord, and a sound rating, given, _when necessary_, in the loudest tone and sternest manner; and it is singular how soon he will discriminate between the reproving term "bad"--to which he will sensitively attach a feeling of shame--and the encouraging word "good"--expressions that will hereafter have a powerful influence over him, especially if he be of a gentle, timid disposition.

114. In educating such a dog--and there are many of the kind, likely to turn out well, if they are judiciously managed, often possessing noses so exquisite--perhaps I ought to say cautious--as nearly to make up for their general want of constitution and powers of endurance--it is satisfactory to think that all these lessons can be inculcated without in the slightest degree depressing his spirit. On the contrary, increasing observation and intelligence will gradually banish his shyness and distrust of his own powers; for he will be sensible that he is becoming more and more capable of comprehending your wishes, and therefore less likely to err and be punished (245).

115. I fear you may imagine that I am attributing too much reasoning power to him. You would not think so if you had broken in two or three dogs. What makes dog-teaching, if not very attractive, at least not laborious, is the fact that the more you impart to a dog, the more readily will he gain further knowledge. After teaching a poodle or a terrier a few tricks, you will be surprised to see with what increasing facility he will acquire each successive accomplishment. It is this circumstance which, I think, should induce you not to regard as chimerical the perfection of which I purpose to speak by-and-by, under the head of "refinements in breaking." Indeed I only adopt this distinction in deference to what I cannot but consider popular prejudice; for I well know many will regard such accomplishments as altogether superfluous. It is sad to think that an art which might easily be made much more perfect, is allowed, almost by universal suffrance, to stop short just at the point where excellence is within grasp.

116. Far more dogs would be _well-broken_, if men would but keep half the number they usually possess. _The owner of many dogs cannot shoot often enough over them, to give them great experience._

117. I am, however, wandering from our immediate subject. Let us return to the lecture, and consider how much knowledge your pupil will have acquired by these preliminary instructions. We shall find that, with the exception of a systematically confirmed range, really little remains to be learned, save what his almost unaided instinct will tell him.

118. For it is wonderful how much you can effect by initiatory instruction: indeed, afterwards, you will have little else to do than teach and confirm your dog in a judicious range--his own sagacity and increasing experience will be his principal guides--for consider how much you will have taught him.

119. He will know--

I. That he is to pay attention to his whistle--the whistle
that you design always to use to him. I mean that, when he
hears _one_ low blast on his whistle he is to look to you
for orders, but not necessarily run towards you, unless he
is out of sight, or you continue whistling (18).

II. That "Toho," or the right arm raised nearly
perpendicularly, means that he is to stand still (19 to 21).

III. That "Drop," or the left arm raised nearly
perpendicularly, or the report of a gun, means that he is to
crouch down with his head close to the ground, between his
feet, however far off he may be ranging. Greater relaxation
in the position may be permitted after he has been a little
time shot over (22 to 26).

IV. That "On,"--the shortest word for "hie-on,"--or the
forward underhand swing of the right hand, signifies that he
is to advance in a forward direction--the direction in which
you are waving. This signal is very useful. It implies that
you want the dog to hunt ahead of you. Yon employ it also
when you are alongside of him at his point, and are desirous
of urging him to follow up the running bird or birds, and
press to a rise. If he push on too eagerly, you restrain him
by slightly raising the right hand--XII. of this paragraph
(18 to 21).

V. That a wave of the right arm and hand--the arm being
fully extended and well to the right--from left to right,
means that he is to hunt to the right. Some men wave the
left hand across the body from left to right, as a direction
to the dog to hunt to the right; but that signal is not so
apparent at a distance as the one I have described (32).

VI. That a wave of the left arm from right to left--the arm
being fully extended and well to the left--means that he is
to hunt to the left (33).

VII. That the "Beckon," the wave of the right hand towards
you, indicates that he is to hunt towards you (33. See also
67).

VIII. That the word "Heel," or a wave of the right hand to
the rear--the reverse of the underhand, cricket-bowler's
swing,--implies that he is to give up hunting, and go
directly close to your heels (40).

IX. That "Fence" means that he is not to leave the place
where you are. After being so checked a few times when he is
endeavoring to quit the field, he will understand the word
to be an order not to "break fence" (42, 43).

X. That "Find" or "Seek" means that he is to search for
something which he will have great gratification in
discovering. When he is in the field he will quickly
understand this to be game (30, 31).

XI. That "Dead"--which it would be well to accompany with
the signal to "Heel," means that there is something not far
off, which he would have great satisfaction in finding. On
hearing it, he will come to you, and await your signals
instructing him in what direction he is to hunt for it.
When, by signals, you have put him as near as you can upon
the spot where you think the bird has fallen, you will say
"Find;" for, until you say that word, he ought to be more
occupied in attending to your signals than in searching for
the bird. When you have shot a good many birds to him, if he
is within sight, in order to work more silently, omit saying
"Dead," only signal to him to go to "Heel" (18, 30, 31, 40).

XII. That "Care" means that he is near that for which he is
hunting. This word, used with the right hand slightly
raised--the signal for the "Toho," only not exhibited nearly
so energetically--will soon make him comprehend that game is
near him, and that he is therefore to hunt cautiously. You
will use it when your young dog is racing too fast among
turnips or potatoes (35).

XIII. That "Up" means that he is to sniff with his nose high
in the air for that of which he is in search (37).

XIV. That "Away"--or "Gone," or "Flown"--is an indication
that the thing for which he was hunting and of which he
smells the taint, is no longer there. This word is not to be
used in the field until your young dog has gained some
experience (41).

XV. That "Ware"--pronounced "War"--is a general order to
desist from whatever he may be doing. "No" is perhaps a
better word; it can be pronounced more distinctly and
energetically. If the command is occasionally accompanied
with the cracking of your whip, its meaning will soon be
understood (43).

XVI. He will also know the distinction between the chiding
term "Bad" and the encouraging word "Good"; and, moreover,
be sensible, from your look and manner, whether you are
pleased or angry with him. Dogs, like children, are
physiognomists (36, end of 104).

120. You will perceive that you are advised to use the right hand more than the left. This is only because the left hand is so generally employed in carrying the gun.

121. You will also observe, that when the voice is employed--and this should be done only when the dog will not obey your signals--I have recommended you to make use of but _one_ word. Why should you say "Come to heel," "Ware breaking fence," "Have a care?" If you speak in sentences, you may at times unconsciously vary the words of the sentence, or the emphasis on any word; and as it is only by the sound that you should expect a dog to be guided, the more defined and distinct in sound the several commands are the better.

122. This consideration leads to the remark that, as, by nearly universal consent, "Toho" is the word employed to tell a dog to point, the old rule is clearly a judicious one, never to call him "Ponto," "Sancho," or by any name ending in "o." Always, too, choose one that can be hallooed in a sharp, loud, high key. You will find the advantage of this whenever you lose your dog, and happen not to have a whistle. Observe, also, if you have several dogs, to let their names be dissimilar in sound.

123. I have suggested your employing the word "Drop" instead of the usual word "Down," because it is less likely to be uttered by any one on whom the dog might jump or fawn; for, on principle, I strongly object to any order being given which is not strictly enforced. It begets in a dog, as much as in the nobler animal who walks on two legs, habits of inattention to words of command, and ultimately makes greater severity necessary. If I felt certain I should never wish to part with a dog I was instructing, I should carry this principle so far as to frame a novel vocabulary, and never use any word I thought he would be likely to hear from others. By the bye, whenever you purchase a dog, it would be advisable to ascertain what words of command and what signals he has been accustomed to.

FOOTNOTES:

[20] I once had a pointer pup whose dam was broken in (after a fashion) and regularly shot to when seven months old. Without injury to her constitution, she could not have been hunted for more than an hour or two at a time. She ought not to have been taken to the field for _regular_ use until fully a year old.