Chapter VII: Part 7

The pulse not only varies in number of beats per minute during illness, but also in character—for instance, after great exertion the pulse is full and fast, and in cases of internal inflammation it is small and wiry as well as fast.

In some diseases of the nervous system the pulse is very slow. During a prolonged illness, or after a severe illness, the pulse can scarcely be felt; it is then said to be weak, and stimulants and tonics are indicated.

The pulse is always quicker in young dogs and old ones than it is in those in the prime of life. The best place for taking the heart-beats or pulse is at the femoral artery, just as it crosses the inside of the thigh-bone.

=Pupping=:

To discover whether a bitch is in pup, let her be placed upon a table, and her fears or excitability banished by caresses; then lay her upon her side, and with the fingers gently manipulate the abdomen. If the womb is impregnated, the person, directing his attention first to the situation the uterus occupies, near to the rim of the pelvis, and inferior to the rectum, will there detect round smooth bodies, like little eggs. These may not be perceptible if the bladder be loaded; but if the catheter be employed to draw off the urine, they will surely be felt. If the rectum be full of faeces, it serves as an admirable guide to the position of the uterus, though he who is acquainted with anatomy needs no such assistance. Some globular substance being detected, the fingers are advanced; and if more than one pup be conceived, another similar to it will speedily impinge upon the touch; then another, and so on, until the whole of the promised family have been thus announced. The last is the most difficult to discover; for should there be more than two or three, it may, and will generally, occupy the extremity of a horn, and in that situation may escape observation. There are to the womb of this animal a pair of horns, which are long, and extend to the region of the kidneys. Both cannot be traced at the same time, and there is a chance of the two being confounded; therefore it is not well to be positive as to the precise number of young the bitch will bring forth. And I never presume to speak confidently upon the point; for though, in the majority of cases, my opinion may have been corroborated, nevertheless I have often known a pup more than I supposed the uterus contained to have been delivered. From the end of the fourth week, the litter, as it were, go away, or are lost; but when the sixth week arrives, the contents of the abdomen may be plainly detected; and if the bitch be taken upon the lap, and her belly supported with the hand, they at this period will be felt to move, and the motion even of their limbs is clearly recognised.

Milk appears in the teats about the middle of the eighth week, and sometimes sooner, and occasionally later.

For a bitch to be in proper condition at the time of parturition, she requires some attention during pregnancy. One or two hours’ walking exercise daily is essential during the early part of the time; but when the bitch becomes very heavy, as is often the case the last fortnight, then half an hour slowly walking is enough, unless the bitch is inclined to take more. During the first five weeks it is not necessary to make any alteration in the diet. If the bitch is in the habit of being fed only once a day, so let it continue; but after the time mentioned, food should be given twice a day, and should be of good nourishing kind, as soaked biscuits with a little under-cooked meat—three parts of the former to one of the latter. When she is delicate, and has a poor appetite, extra meat may be allowed; and in some cases, especially towards the last, if she is disinclined to take her ordinary food, meat, raw or cooked, alone may be given two or three times a day.

Spratt’s small special cod-liver oil biscuits, which contain 10 per cent. of the oil, make first-class food for bitches of poor condition. They may be given dry, also broken up small, soaked in soup, and mixed with meat in the proportion as previously stated. The principal thing is to feed regularly, and not to give too much at a time.

Bitches when in pup are best without a lot of medicine; but I consider it a good plan, about three weeks after service, and when all signs of heat have quite disappeared, to give a vermifuge, not with the idea of preventing the puppies becoming infested with worms, as that is impossible, before birth; but no bitch can be in good health, which is so essential at this time, if the bowels are full of worms. I do not advise a strong drastic dose, but one of medium strength, and it should be repeated the following week. It is very important to examine the bitch’s skin from time to time, so as to check any cutaneous disorder early; for if the bitch has any skin disease when the puppies are born, they are sure to contract it, and nothing thwarts their growth more than an irritable skin, for it prevents rest, when plenty of sleep is so essential for a puppy’s welfare; so if there are symptoms of mange, have her at once dressed all over with some mild preparation like sulphur ointment made with vaseline, which should be repeated two or three times in the course of a week, and after a few days washed off. In case of eczema, a bath in Pearson’s fluid diluted eighty times with water, or after the seventh week sponging all over with a solution of the same, will in most cases be all that is necessary. In some cases of eczema, at these times a little cooling medicine is useful, as an occasional dose of syrup of buckthorn and castor oil, or a small dose every day for a week of some alterative powders, as the following:

Cream of Tartar, } Equal parts.
Powdered Magnesia, }
Bicarbonate of Potash, }
Milk of Sulphur, }

_Dose_: From sufficient to cover a sixpence to a dessertspoonful.[1]

If a bitch has been in the habit of being regularly washed, this may be continued as usual, when the heat has passed, until about the seventh week, when it is not advisable to put the bitch right into warm water in case abortion might be induced.

While on the subject of abortion, I may mention that a bitch ought never to be sent on a journey by train during the last two weeks, for a shaking of this kind is more likely to cause premature confinement than anything else I know.

It is very important that the bitch should be quite clean at the time of parturition, and it is a good plan to wash the stomach and breast, also the vulva and surrounding parts, with a strong warm solution of Pearson’s fluid, about one in forty. Some treatment of this kind is more likely to prevent young puppies from having worms soon after birth than anything else. It is a common custom, and I think a very good one, to give a bitch in pup a dose of castor oil about three days before she is due. In many cases, especially when the bitch is a bit gross, it is advisable to give a dose of the oil a week before her time is up, and again in three or four days.

Bitches, as a rule, have their puppies on the sixty-second or sixty-third day, the day of service being included; but some will pup on the sixtieth day, or even a day or so earlier, and the puppies may be fairly strong; but when born before the fifty-seventh day they seldom live. On the other hand, many, especially those of the larger breeds, will go two or three days over the specified time without inconvenience; and I have known one to go as long as seventy-three days, and then to have a litter of strong, healthy puppies, but this does not often occur when there is a large litter.

One who is accustomed to dogs can tell within a few hours when a bitch is going to pup. There is disinclination for food, the vulva is swollen, and there is a discharge of thick mucus from the vagina, and, as a rule, she seeks a quiet spot to be alone.

At this time, after making the bitch comfortable with a nice clean straw bed—there is nothing better than straw, which should not be supplied too plentifully—she should be left by herself for a time. As the labour pains come on, she becomes restless, and pants; is frequently looking around, and licking herself. When such occurs, labour in earnest may be considered to have commenced; and if all is going well, one or more puppies should be born in the course of an hour or so. If after two hours there are no signs of a puppy appearing, it is well to examine the bitch; but if a bladder (fœtal membrane) is protruding from the vagina, there is no hurry to interfere, as this is a sign, as a rule, that matters are taking a normal course, and that more time is required; and the bitch, after being offered some milk, may be left again for another hour or two. Bitches at their first pupping should always be given more time than one which has had two or three litters, and this is more especially the case when she is three or four years old, or even older. I have known bitches when over nine years of age to have a litter of puppies for the first time, and, as may be expected, it often goes very hard with them, though with care they may live through it. Once the membrane protrudes, which the bitch generally ruptures by biting, the first puppy, if everything is all right, soon makes its appearance; and, as a rule, by the time the cord is divided, and she has attended to the young arrival’s toilet, another youngster is nearly born, and in the course of an hour the bitch may have given birth to three or four puppies; then, perhaps, if there are any more, there is an interval of two or three hours, which gives the bitch time to recover her strength, and take some refreshment in the way of thin oatmeal gruel or plain milk, and in most cases this is quite sufficient; but if there are signs of exhaustion, some Brand’s essence, or the white of an egg beaten up with milk, and a small quantity of brandy, may be given. After this, in cases of the smaller breeds, when the average number is four or five, the last of the puppies soon makes its appearance; this also refers to terriers, though they may have five or six, or even more puppies, as they are such strong dogs compared to toy spaniels, pugs, etc.

Very often a bitch will have all her puppies but one with the greatest ease (for it is seldom a bitch cries out whilst pupping after the first litter), when the pains seem to cease altogether, and do not return for many hours afterwards, perhaps not until the next day. In such cases, a dose of some medicine to excite the action of the uterus is necessary, but this will be dealt with later on.

Bitches of the larger breeds which have big litters of twelve, fourteen, sixteen, and more puppies, invariably take all day, even in normal cases; but after twelve some assistance and great care are required, for by this time the mother is getting exhausted. Good gruel should be offered, and about every three hours the white of an egg beaten up with a teacupful of milk and a dessertspoonful of brandy should be given.

Bitches that have had their puppies easily do not require much food during the next twenty-four hours, the fœtal envelopes, which are always eaten, affording a certain amount of nourishment; therefore, if some thin oatmeal gruel or Benger’s food made with milk be offered, it is sufficient. Plain milk may also be given to drink. The same diet does for the following two days, with the addition of some soup or sheep’s-head broth with bread or crushed dog biscuits, a small quantity twice a day. After the third day a more liberal diet may be allowed; boiled fish, as fresh haddock, with bread, also the meat from a sheep’s head, and bread or broken biscuit soaked soft in the soup. By degrees the quantity and quality of the food may be increased, for after a fortnight, when there is a large litter, a good deal of nourishment is required, if the bitch is to be kept strong and the puppies fat.

Very often, two or three days after parturition, the bitch has diarrhœa. As a rule, it is not severe, and passes off in the course of twenty-four hours. Should it continue after this time, a dose of castor oil and laudanum may be given. In small bitches, as toys, a teaspoonful of the oil with three drops of laudanum; for terriers, a dessertspoonful of the former and five drops of the latter; collies, etc., a tablespoonful, and ten drops of tincture of opium; and large bitches, two tablespoonfuls and ten drops. The dose should be repeated in six hours. If the diarrhœa continues after the oil has worked off, from five[1] to twenty grains of bismuth may be given three or four times a day, shaken dry on the tongue. During the diarrhœa, the milk should be thickened with arrowroot, and the soup be given with rice instead of bread or biscuit.

Some bitches, when due to pup, and though in good health and fairly strong, have not sufficient labour pains to bring forth their young; the water-bag may break and there is the usual green-coloured discharge, but the throes are so slight as to be of little use. Of course, once the fœtal membrane is broken, and the fluid escapes, the puppy soon dies if not born; therefore, it is necessary to use means to stimulate the contraction of the womb—in other words, to induce labour pains—and for this there is nothing better than ergotine, which is a strong extract of ergot of rye. Until recently the latter was used, the seed being coarsely powdered, and from ten[1] to sixty grains administered in warm milk or coffee, the dose being repeated every two or three hours until several had been given. There are other preparations of ergot, as the ammoniated liquid extract, and ammoniated tincture. The former is the next best preparation to ergotine, and should be used when ergotine cannot be obtained. The dose varies from ten minims to one drachm,[1] which may be given with water, or in a little milk, and repeated every two hours until the pains have been induced, or six doses given; but these preparations are not so good as ergotine, for not only does the latter act with more certainty, but there is another advantage in its administration, and that is, it may be injected under the skin, and consequently the stomach is not irritated and perhaps the bitch made sick, which often happens when these medicines are given by the mouth. The dose of ergotine is from one[1] to three grains, given in from ten[1] to forty minims of brandy. There is no advantage, as is often recommended, in injecting it deeply into the muscles in the region of the pelvis, as it is quite sufficient to introduce it just under the skin. I generally do so behind one of the shoulders on the side of the chest, where the skin is loose. The action of the drug, when given in this way, may generally be observed within a quarter of an hour, and the dose, if necessary, may be repeated in a couple of hours.

It is not an uncommon occurrence, as before observed, in cases of parturition, for bitches that have large litters, to give birth to all the puppies quickly, and with a certain amount of ease, until the last, and in some instances two puppies. Then the pain seems to cease, and the bitch appears fairly comfortable for some hours, and it is often thought by the attendant she has finished, and there is no further cause for anxiety; but in about twelve hours, or perhaps the next day, the bitch becomes restless again, refuses her food, and is inclined to neglect her pups, and is constantly wanting to go out, and after passing water, sits and strains for a few moments. When these symptoms are noticed, the bitch should be immediately examined, and if it is found there are more puppies, and that the foremost one is not unnaturally situated, a dose of ergotine should be at once given, and some nourishment also administered, as milk and brandy, or Brand’s beef essence, or even a little scraped lean raw meat.

Breeders should make it a regular practice to examine a bitch when it is thought she has finished pupping, by gently manipulating the abdomen, also by passing carefully a well-oiled finger into the vagina, for it is often impossible to tell for certain, without examination, if there is only one left, more especially in cases when the mother has had a large litter. Many a valuable bitch is lost through this not being regularly done. Because the pups, when left behind, if not already dead, die, and quickly decompose and set up blood-poisoning, which invariably terminates fatally within twenty-four hours.

Sire Ch. Dominie, K.C.S.B. 24,044, Dam Ch. Dame Fortune K.C.S.B. 38,153. Described by Mr. J. C. Tinne as “absolutely the best Fox Terrier of all time.” The property of Mr. Francis Redmond, Whetstone House, Totteridge, N.

[_face p. 248._]

Considering the number of young a bitch has, and the variety of size the puppies often are, I think it is wonderful they get through their trouble as well as they do, more especially when it is taken into consideration the artificial life dogs generally live. There are some breeds which are always a source of anxiety to their owners, especially the toys, as spaniels and griffons, which have frequently a habit of throwing back to the size of their ancestors, which were no doubt much larger dogs than the modern specimens. The same remarks refer to Yorkshire terriers as well as to the other small breeds, but the fault very often lies with the owner in trying to breed from very small bitches. Bull-bitches, again, often have difficulty in bringing their puppies into the world, and this is in a great measure due to the modern dogs having such large heads.

In addition to the difficulty mentioned, this breed is no doubt of a naturally weak constitution, and their organs of reproduction are very liable to disease. Of course there are many of what one may call accidental cases, as when a fox-terrier or dachshund has puppies by a dog the size of a collie. I have known many cases of this kind, and, as may be expected, the bitch has trouble in giving birth to such youngsters, though sometimes they are born without any difficulty at all. Then there are other cases of difficult parturition, due to stricture of the vaginal passage, the result of injury to the pelvic bones, as when a bitch has been run over across the hips, or as the result of congenital deformity of these parts. There is nothing to be done in these cases but to have the Cæsarean operation performed, when some of the puppies may be saved and the bitch too, if the operation is done in good time.

There is another form of stricture of the vagina, and it is generally found just inside the vulva. It is due to a strong band of mucous membrane, which refuses to dilate as the surrounding parts do at this time, and in some cases it is so strong that one is not able to dilate it in the ordinary way; therefore, the only thing to do is to cut through it with a blunt-pointed knife (bistoury), which I generally do at the side, and always with good result.

Difficulties arise at parturition in consequence of the unnatural position of the fœtus; a puppy should come with the head first, the nose extended, and the fore legs placed one on either side of the neck. Another easy position for birth is when the hind legs come first, but in these cases, unless the puppy is delivered quickly, it dies from asphyxia.

From some unaccountable reason a fœtus frequently assumes a wrong position, which renders its birth extremely difficult. In such cases it is useless giving ecbolics or medicines to stimulate the labour pains, but means must be taken to place the puppy, if possible, in a proper position, and then a dose of ergotine is useful. Perhaps the most common malposition is when both fore legs are thrown in a backward direction, causing the shoulder to project, thus inducing a mechanical impediment to birth. These are not very troublesome cases, as a rule, for the legs, by means of a blunt-pointed round hook, may be drawn forward; if there is nothing better at hand, a long button-hook will answer the purpose.

This accomplished, the puppy should come away easily; but if the bitch is weak from long straining, it is advisable to remove the puppy entirely, especially if it is thought there are more to come. I may mention here when one has to use instruments of any kind to assist the patient, the puppy is generally in some way injured, so that if it does not die at the time, it usually does very soon after; but after all, this is of little consequence compared with the life of the mother.

In some instances the puppy presents itself at the mouth of the womb with the top of the head foremost, the nose being pressed down against the chest; if it is at all large, birth is very difficult in this position. In such cases, one should try and elevate the nose with the point of the finger; when the bitch is not a large one this is often possible, but when she is, it is necessary to employ a crotchet or crook—as mentioned before, a button-hook with a long handle does very well—and, if possible, it should be fixed in the mouth and the nose drawn up; this is rendered more easy, if one can, by means of the finger of the other hand, press the neck backwards towards the body of the bitch. It is, however, often impossible to raise the head, and the only thing to be done is to seize the neck firmly with a pair of forceps, and by traction at each time of straining, extract the puppy. Care must be taken not to injure the bitch, or inflammation, which may prove fatal, will occur.

In other cases the head may be bent in a backward direction, the front of the neck presenting. These cases, though somewhat more difficult, require similar treatment to the previous kind. When all other means have failed, the neck may be divided and the head removed by forceps; the body will then generally come away by itself.

The fœtus assumes numerous other positions besides those mentioned—as, for instance, lying transversely, the puppy’s side presenting to the mouth of the womb, and when the labour pains are strong, no amount of manipulation will put the body in a normal position. Rather than let the bitch waste her strength uselessly, the puppy should be divided or broken up by means of a sharp-cutting hook, and removed by means of forceps.

When a fore and a hind leg are presented into the vagina, the former should be pushed back into the womb, and the hind leg seized with forceps and made fast with a piece of tape. (It is easy to distinguish one leg from the other by feeling for the hock-joint in the hind limb.) When this is done, the other back leg should now be felt for, and when its position is ascertained, it should, if possible, by means of a small pair of forceps (ordinary dressing forceps answer very well for this purpose) or crotchet, be drawn into the vagina, or made fast with tape like its fellow, and then by gentle traction on both limbs the puppy is delivered.

It occasionally happens, in cases of head presentation, that the hind legs are bent forward on the body, which renders the delivery difficult, and unless the passage is large, and the pains are very strong, the bitch cannot bring forth the pup without assistance. This is best rendered by grasping the puppy across the hips with a small pair of thin-bladed parturition forceps, and gently pulling the puppy during each throe.

It frequently occurs that though a puppy may lie in a normal position, the mother is unable to give birth to it in consequence of its being too large. The nose may be just inside the vagina, and there become fixed in spite of the bitch’s straining for hours. I have seen hundreds of such cases. It is a mistake to leave the bitch in this condition too long, thinking matters will come all right, as it is wasting time and the mother’s strength; and if there are other puppies to come, she probably will not have strength either to expel them herself or help anyone who may try to assist her. In this instance, the head is so firmly fixed in the mouth of the womb that it is impossible to take hold of it with forceps, however small or thin the blades may be, but the hook of the crotchet may generally be passed into the mouth of the puppy, and by fixing it well into the palate a good hold is obtained, and the puppy drawn through the passage by main force. If care be taken, it is astonishing what amount of force may be used in promoting delivery without at all injuring the bitch, but it is best not to pull on the puppy except during the labour pains, if there are any.

It is the custom of some veterinary surgeons to give the bitch, during labour, a hot bath if the parts are not considered sufficiently relaxed, or if the pains are dull; at the proper time the tissues always become sufficiently dilated, providing the parts are in a normal state—that is, bar a stricture in the vagina, or something of the kind—and if there is any abnormal condition, a warm or hot bath, in my opinion, does more harm than good by often checking the pains.

Sometimes when the ergot fails to induce or stimulate the throes, I have applied with advantage to the abdomen an ice-bag; but what I find the best of all, when one or two subcutaneous injections of ergotine have not worked satisfactorily, is to put the bitch in some vehicle and give her a drive, and if nothing else will induce the labour pains this shaking up will do so in most cases.

The worst of all, are those cases when the bitch is due to pup, the parts are relaxed, and there are no labour pains to expel the fœta. Examined per vaginum, no puppy can be felt, and no amount of excitement of the parts by passing a cold instrument into the passage, or injections of ergot, causes contraction of the womb. If the patient seems all right, it is best to wait some hours, during which time everything should be done to try and excite contraction of the parts. If the means taken do not succeed, then there is nothing to be done except the Cæsarean operation, as it is not safe to attempt delivery with forceps or the crotchet when the puppies cannot be felt with the finger.

The best forceps for using, in my opinion, in cases of parturition, are those made by Messrs. Krohne & Sesemann, of Duke Street, Manchester Square, London. They are made after the pattern of Will’s ovariotomy forceps, of very fine hard steel; the blades are extremely thin and small, and deeply serrated, so that when a puppy is taken hold of they do not easily slip off. My crotchet was also made by the same firm, and, if care is used when working with it, it is a most valuable little instrument. When from causes due to mechanical impediment either on the part of the bitch or puppies, or from want of proper labour pains, it is impossible to obtain the birth of the puppies through the proper channel, the abdomen should be opened. If the operation is done in good time (that is, before the bitch has become weak), and proper antiseptic precautions taken, there is a chance, though the operation is a dangerous one, of saving the mother’s life. At any rate, some of the puppies can be almost certainly brought forth alive; whilst if the operation is not undertaken in these circumstances, one knows that not only the bitch but all the puppies are sure to die.

Prolapsus, or inversion of the womb or uterus, into the vagina, sometimes, but very rarely, occurs during parturition, due to very severe straining, or as the result of too much force being used to remove a puppy with forceps, or by other artificial means. Care must be taken in these cases not to mistake protrusion of the uterus for prolapsus of the vagina or a polypus. The latter may be recognised as a solid, pear-shaped body with a narrow neck, whilst a prolapsed vagina is generally a large, solid, oval body, which almost fills the vaginal canal, if it does not protrude externally. It has a broad base, and rises at the back part of the passage, just in front of the meatus or opening to the bladder. The uterus is soft, reducible, and rough, and tubular in shape, besides showing dark-coloured patches where the placenta has been attached.

After the womb has been cleansed by being sponged with a weak, tepid solution of permanganate of potash, it should, if possible, be returned by gentle pressure on the fundus of the uterus with a piece of whalebone, with the point covered with a sponge. The returning is assisted if the hind legs are raised—in fact, by the bitch being held upside down. Care must be taken not to use undue force, or the uterus may be ruptured. After the return, it is a good plan to inject a quantity of cold water into the vagina to act as an astringent.

When the protruding uterus shows signs of having been injured, or is much congested, or decomposition has set in, amputation is advisable. This is best done by drawing the part gently out and applying a strong silk ligature as high up as possible, and cutting off the free portion.

The bitch, when she has finished pupping, requires little attention beyond a change of bed and a fair supply of nutritive food. She does best when least noticed; but it is well to see that she takes sufficient exercise. On the following day she should be taken out two or three times for a few minutes to relieve herself, and every day after that she ought to be about pretty much as before. Some bitches, however, are such devoted mothers as to sacrifice health, and occasionally life itself, to enjoy the pleasure of being with their young ones. This excess of affection must be controlled, for, if not checked, it will seriously injure both parent and offspring. All animals, however, are not thus distinguished. Some bitches cannot be induced to suckle the pups they have given birth to; and others, though less frequently, will eat their progeny. The disposition to desert or destroy their young seems to prevail among the parentage of this world. In the female of the dog the maternal instinct is most powerful, but under certain conditions of the animal’s body the natural impulse seems to be perverted, and she takes the life she would else have perished to preserve.

Some persons entertain a notion that the bitch which has once devoured her litter will ever after retain the disposition. This is a false idea. On the next occasion, if properly treated—that is, if not persecuted, chastised, alarmed, and annoyed, but properly dieted—she may prove, and most likely will prove, an excellent mother, the very excitability which, when over-stimulated, induced her unnatural impulse, making her, when tranquil, the more alive to the instincts of her nature.

For the first week the bitch is, as a rule, very attentive to her family, and as it gives her pain when one is taken up, it is better not to handle the pups more than is absolutely necessary. She should be well fed; not crammed, but nourished; and she will require more food than formerly, for there are many mouths to feed through hers. The quantity of support she needs may be conjectured from the rapid growth of the pups.

A small bitch of my own had a litter of four. The mother weighed seven pounds six ounces, and between the second and fourth week the young ones daily added one ounce and a half each to their bulk. It would require some amount of milk to supply such a quantity of flesh; and we have also to remember that, during the rapid growth, the process of consolidation is simultaneously going forward. Good nourishing food, sufficient in bulk, is absolutely imperative; for if the pups be stinted, the dogs will assuredly be weak.

A strong bitch may be able to bring up five or six young ones, though I have known some instances where a bitch has reared successfully as many as ten; but the animals of the smaller or choice breeds are seldom possessed of such capabilities. The very diminutive will not generally rear two pups without suffering; and four are a very heavy drag upon the majority of the animals kept as pets, even though they be in no way remarkable on account of size.

If anything happens to the bitch, and she is unable to rear her puppies, either a foster-parent must be found (and a cat will rear a small pup very tenderly), or the litter must in part be brought up by hand.

This last is more troublesome than difficult to do. The pups want to be fed early and late, consequently they must be taken into the bedroom; and when the feeding-time arrives, the soundest sleeper will be reminded of his duty. A bottle, such as is used for infants of the human kind, must have a sort of nipple made of wash-leather fitted to it. The leather is to be pricked all over with a fine needle, and within it is to be placed a small piece of sponge to give substance and form to it. There is need to do that, because the pup, when it sucks, wraps the tongue round the teat, and unless the body it thus grasps has bulk, it cannot extract the liquid. This, therefore, being attended to, the little creatures very soon learn their lesson, and all that is subsequently to be done will be to hold them to the bottle and the bottle to them. Each pup occupies from ten to fifteen minutes at a meal; and they may be allowed to decide the quantity that will do them good, unless one should obviously be morbidly gluttonous, when the indulgence of its appetite should be restrained.

The best food for such young puppies is to give artificially prepared bitches’ milk, made by adding cream, etc., to cows’ milk. (_See_ article on MILK.)

There is only one circumstance needed to be pointed out when pups are brought up by hand. The sponge and leather of the false nipple are apt to become sour; and therefore, after they have been used, they should be kept in water rendered slightly alkaline with the carbonate of soda.

If the puppies are strong, one may commence to wean them when between five and six weeks old; but when they are weakly or delicate, it is best to wait another week before commencing to take them away from their mother; and under any circumstance it must be done gradually for the mother’s sake. For the first three days separate the bitch from the puppies all day except for half an hour, middle day; then keep her away entirely during the day, only allowing her to be with them at night; and then, after a few days later, only allow her to visit her puppies for a short time night and morning. This must continue so long as the bitch has any desire to go to the little ones, or so long as she has any milk.

As to feeding the puppies, _see_ the article on FEEDING in the Appendix.

=Purgative Medicine=:

A dose of purgative medicine, judiciously administered, is a good remedy for many minor complaints, and often makes what looks like being a very sick dog into a healthy one.

Castor oil is a good household remedy, but causes constipation afterwards; but in cases of diarrhœa, when it is necessary to clear the bowel of any irritating matter, there is nothing better than castor oil. The dose varies from half a teaspoonful to two tablespoonfuls.[1] When the dog is showing signs of abdominal pain, from three[1] to fifteen drops of laudanum may be added to the dose.

The following is a mild aperient mixture, and does not bind afterwards:—

_Recipe_:

Castor Oil, } Equal parts.
Syrup of Buckthorn, }
Salad Oil, }

Well mixed.

_Doses_: From half a teaspoonful[1] to two tablespoonfuls, fasting, in the morning.

For little dogs suffering from constipation, salad oil mixed daily with the food answers well. Give from a half[1] to a teaspoonful once or twice a day.

Some dogs refuse to take their food with oil in it. In these cases, fluid magnesia is a nice mild laxative; and one,[1] two, or three teaspoonfuls may be given with a little milk at breakfast-time. A little gingerbread cake, given at night, keeps a small dog’s bowels very regular; besides, it is appreciated.

For a purge for small dogs, one or two of the following pills may be given:—

_Recipe_:

Extract Colocynth, 12 grains.
Extract Jalap, 6 ”
Septandrin, 3 ”
Extract Gentian, 6 ”
Podophyllum, 3 ”
Gingerine, 1½ ”

Mix.

Divide into 12 pills.

Sometimes it is difficult to give a dog a pill. In these cases, a powder may be administered, as jalapin. Two grains is the dose for a very small dog, and twelve grains for a big one like a great Dane or St. Bernard. It may be just shaken dry on the tongue or mixed with a little thick gruel.

The following is a good cathartic pill for dogs varying in size from a fox-terrier to the biggest kind:—

_Recipe_:

Barbadoes Aloes, 24 grains.
Gamboge, 12 ”
Jalap, 24 ”
Colocynth, 12 ”
Powdered Soap, 12 ”
Calomel, 12 ”
Gingerine, 3 ”
Excip. sufficient.

Mix.

Divide into 12 pills—one, two, three, or four[1] to be give on an empty stomach.

In cases of skin disease, when purgative medicine is necessary, Epsom salts is the best. The dose varies from fifteen grains to one ounce,[1] given in some sweetened milk.

=Purpura=:

_Symptoms_: Extravasation of blood into the skin in very small pin-like spots, or may be in large patches. They are first bright red, then turn darker, and afterwards become brown in colour. The same symptoms may occur on the tongue, also the cheek, and on the white parts of the eye, and they occur also on the internal organs.

_Treatment_: When the spots are very small and few in number, no notice need be taken of them; but when there are large patches of extravasated blood, give from half a grain[1] to two grains of ergotine with double the quantity of reduced iron, made into a pill, two or three times a day. After a few days, commence a course of arsenic, give from one[1] to six drops of liquor arsenic (P.B.) three times a day in water after food.

In these cases, avoid giving much meat.

=Pyæmia=:

_Symptoms_: This is an uncommon disease in dogs, but when it does occur it usually runs a rapid course, death often taking place in a few days. It generally results from some severe internal operation, though it may not come on until some months after the operation has taken place, then a large abscess forms in the liver. The attack commences, as a rule, by severe shivering, the temperature rises 3 or 4 or more degs. above normal; the pulse is very quick, often going up to 150. The dog refuses all food, is very thirsty, frequently vomits, and loses condition quickly. If the abscess bursts in the abdomen, peritonitis follows, and death soon takes place; but if it dries up (becomes caseated), then the dog gets better for a time, but other abscesses are almost sure to form, if not in the liver, kidneys, or lymphatic glands, they may in the lungs, when there is a recurrence of all the symptoms previously described.

_Treatment_: There is little to be done in these cases; a large dose of salicylate of quinine, say from two to ten grains,[1] should be given, and repeated once in six hours. If no improvement takes place by the following day, it is worth while to see what a surgical operation will do, though the chances of a cure by this mode of treatment are never very bright.

The dog’s strength should be maintained with good strong beef-tea, also Plasmon with milk, and nutritive suppositories and enemas. Brandy, too, should be freely given.

=Pyrosis=:

_Symptoms_: The rejection from the stomach of a quantity of watery fluid. This is generally preceded by discomfort and restlessness, and rumbling in the stomach.

_Treatment_: Put dog on a milk diet for a few days; it may be given with Benger’s food, Plasmon, or Spratt’s invalid food, or toast; also three or four times a day, about a quarter of an hour before food, give from two[1] to ten grains of subnitrate of bismuth. Do not give any meat.

=Rabies=:

_Symptoms_: As in all illnesses, this one commences with a loss of appetite, and a rise of temperature from 2 to 3 degs. above normal. The dog may be constantly licking himself at one particular spot, which is probably the place where he was bitten and inoculated.

The dog’s disposition entirely changes, the cheerful one becomes morose and sullen, the quiet one is restless, and the good-tempered dog quarrelsome, and there is an inclination to hide in dark corners, though when called by his owner he comes forward and is very affectionate, licking the hand and even the person’s face if allowed.

A rabid dog is generally depicted with a quantity of frothing saliva flowing from the mouth, like one suffering from epilepsy. This is a mistake, the mouth may certainly be a little moister than usual at first, but it soon becomes dry and of a dark red colour. The rabid dog is much inclined to attack others, the small, timid pet will, without provocation, bite both small and large dogs, and it is generally done cunningly, for he will often go quietly up to his victim and smell him, in the usual doggy way, and then suddenly bite him, and perhaps give a sort of howl immediately afterwards.

A rabid dog’s voice is quite altered, and it is very characteristic of the disease, but it is rather difficult to describe on paper; it is half a bark and half a howl; it commences with a bark and finishes up with a dismal howl. A rabid dog is much disposed to wander if he can only get his liberty, and once he gets out he often goes for miles on a sort of jog-trot, with head and tail down, going out of his way to attack other dogs, but not so much people, unless they get directly in his way, or interfere with him. He may wander for hours, or perhaps a day and a night, and then return home. A rabid dog, though he refuses good food, will gnaw and eat all sorts of foreign substances; for instance, if he is in a kennel, he will gnaw and eat the woodwork; if behind railings or chained up, the ironwork, even to the extent of breaking his teeth. If confined in a room, he will gnaw the door, legs of chairs, carpets, curtains, etc. I have known one to eat his way through a two-inch door in a couple of hours. A rabid dog is not afraid of water; in fact, he drinks a good deal at first, before the symptoms are fully developed, and even during the latter stages, though he is unable to swallow, he will thrust his muzzle into a basin of water and try to drink.

As the disease advances, he becomes weak in the back legs, and ultimately quite paralysed, and if not killed, dies within four or five days; but some have been known to live as long as seven days.

In dumb rabies, so called, the lower jaw is dropped in the early stages through paralysis, and the dog is unable to close the mouth. This is sometimes rather deceiving, as a person may think, perhaps, there is a bone fixed on the teeth, and opening the mouth to see, may get wounded by the teeth.

It is not often a rabid dog will attack his owner unless the person tries to restrain him; but he will generally go for a stranger without hesitation or provocation. Rabies cannot arise spontaneously, or from any other cause whatever but inoculation by a bite from a dog suffering from the disease. The inoculative period varies from a fortnight to six weeks; it has been known to extend for three months. There is no doubt that the saliva from a rabid dog’s mouth, going into the eye of another dog, would in all probability induce the disease.

_Treatment_: There is no cure for this disease. Directly it is established, the dog should at once be destroyed, and shooting is the best and safest way of destroying such an animal.

I wish to dispel the idea which so many people have, that if a dog bites another, or even a person, and that dog should ever go mad, the dog and also the person will go mad too; such a thing is impossible, even though the disease may be lying latent in the dog the time he inflicted the bites. Pasteur, who was a great authority on rabies, used to say that a bite from a dog, even two days before there were any visible symptoms of the disease observed, was not dangerous.

=Ranula=:

_Symptoms_: A large, bladder-like swelling under the tongue, which prevents the dog eating properly. Saliva, as a rule, flows freely from the mouth, and in some cases the dog is unable to close the teeth together. The cause, in some cases, is due to some blockage of the duct of the gland which is situated under the front part of the tongue.

_Treatment_: A probe passed through the duct generally allows the accumulated fluid to escape, but in some cases the fluid in the swelling has become so thick that it cannot escape through the natural passage, even though cleared with a probe; then the sac should be freely opened, and after squeezing out its contents, the cavity should be syringed well out with a solution of boracic acid—a teaspoonful of the acid to half a pint of warm water.

=Redness of Skin=:

_Symptoms_: A flushed or red condition of the skin often occurs in white dogs. It is particularly noticed on the inside of the flaps of the ears, the inner side of the thighs and skin of the belly, or it may be general. The redness disappears on pressure, but returns when pressure is removed.

_Treatment_: Dust the part over three or four times a day with finely-powdered boracic acid. Treat dog for worms, and give some tonic medicine, as following pills:—

_Recipe_:

Sulphate of Iron, 6 to 24 grains.[1]
Sulphate of Quinine, 3 to 18 ”
Confection of doses, _q.s._

Mix.

Divide into 12 pills—one to be given twice a day.

A mild saline aperient should be given once a week.

=Respiration (Artificial)=:

When a dog has been nearly drowned, before resorting to artificial respiration he should be held upside down for a few moments, to drain the lungs of water, and then placed on his back with head extended, and after drawing the tongue slightly forward between the teeth, so as to keep throat quite clear, apply pressure to the chest (just where it joins the abdomen) with the open hand, in a forward and downward direction, so as to expand the chest—this should be repeated from eighteen to thirty times a minute, according to the size of the dog. After pressure, the hand should be removed quickly, that the walls of the chest may assume their normal position. Whilst this is going on, another person should inject brandy under the skin, and rigorously work the legs so as to try and promote circulation. As soon as possible put hot-water bottles around the dog.

=Rheumatic Gout=:

_Symptoms_: There is no doubt that dogs do occasionally suffer from this disease, it affecting generally the knees and hocks, but other joints may be attacked. The dog is very lame, the joint swells and is very tender, and there is a difficulty in bending it. Even after the inflammation has dispersed, the joint remains thickened and stiff for some time, in some cases permanently.

_Treatment_: Give a brisk purge, and also from two to fifteen grains[1] of salicylate of soda three times a day in water after food. If joint very painful, use following lotion:—

_Recipe_:

Tr. Opium, 4 drachms.
Water to 6 ounces.

Soak a strip of lint in the lotion, which wind round the joint; cover entirely over with oil-silk and bandage; change every six hours. When the inflammation and pain is less, cut the hair closely off over the joint, and paint with strong tincture of iodine, which repeat once in twenty-four hours. The iodine must not be applied to flexure side of joint.

When the joint remains enlarged and stiff for some time, a course of iodide of potassium, say from a quarter[1] to two grains, may be given three times a day in a little water after food.

=Rheumatism=:

_Symptoms_: This disease may affect almost any part of dog, and also dogs of all ages, though old ones are no doubt more liable to it. When it attacks the muscles of the neck, it often assumes a spasmodic form, and the pain is sometimes very acute; the dog is unable to move his head in any direction, the muscles, from contraction, appear swollen, are very tender to the touch, and the dog cries with the pain. The attack generally lasts some hours, then it gradually subsides, and the dog seems all right for a while, when it may come on again. Then, rheumatism often affects the shoulders, and when it does, it is called “Chest Founder”. The parts are painful and stiff, and the dog walks with difficulty, dragging the fore feet along the ground. Bitches, when in low condition after rearing a litter of puppies, often suffer from this form. Then the loins, again, are the frequent seat of this disease, and when it affects this part it is called lumbago. The dog walks with arched back, and very stiffly—and as when the other parts of the body are affected, there is a good deal of pain. As the result of lumbago, a dog often loses the use of the hind legs for a time, and in fact becomes quite paralysed.

The disease is not confined only to these parts mentioned, as the joints of the fore and hind legs are liable, and a very characteristic symptom of rheumatism is its changing about quickly from one part to another, which is unlike any other disease. For instance, one day the dog may be going dead lame in one of the back legs, the next day the other hind leg may be affected, and the one that was bad the previous day quite free of pain, or the disease may leave the hind parts and go to one of the fore limbs. But this is not always the case, as the disease may settle in a joint, or some muscles, say of the loins, and remain stationary for a long time.