Chapter XXI: Through the Caucasus

We left Kazan for the homeward journey, intending only to stop at Vienna on the way, but fate decreed otherwise. The train started in the evening, and we travelled two nights and a day through flat country to the Caspian Sea. The railway through Turkestan runs parallel first with the Afghan frontier—across which no Russian dare step on pain of his life—and then parallel with the Persian border. The mountains of Persia formed a beautiful outline against the stormy sky as we passed through Askabad, the southernmost point of the line, and when the rain came down in blinding torrents we watched the patient camels and their drivers on the plain, behaving as if completely oblivious of the storm. Not so the Cossack on his fiery steed; he looked as if possessed by the storm demon, tearing across the plain as if the furies were behind him. A land of strange contrasts—the immovable calm of the East, and, vainly beating against it, the restless West. The question forces itself irresistibly upon the mind—which will conquer?

The sun shone brightly next morning as we woke on the shores of the Caspian Sea, and it looked calm and inviting, so different from the description of his stormy journey given by Anthony Jenkinson in the sixteenth century. He says: “This sea is freshwater in many places, and in other places as salt as our great Ocean. It hath many goodly Rivers falling into it, and it avoideth not itselfe except it be underground. During the time of our Navigation wee set up the redde crosse of S. George in our flagges, for honour of the Christians, which I suppose was never seen in the Caspian Sea before.” The terminus of the railway line is a miserable little sun-baked village called Krasnovodsk, with only one imposing edifice, the railway station. We took our things at once to the boat, through a maze of railway trucks and carriages, and were delighted to find it a comfortable little steamer, with a Finnish captain who had served long on English ships and looked like a Scotchman. There was a gigantic sturgeon lying on the landing-stage, and he told us some have been caught in the Caspian Sea weighing two tons. Our voyage only lasted about thirteen hours, but none of the passengers save myself faced dinner, and I was surprised to see next morning that there had been some eight or nine on board. During the night a little child died, so there was a delay while the health officer made his inquiry, and we were all duly inspected.

The view of Baku, although seen through driving rain, was eminently picturesque, and the old ruined maiden’s tower (in the centre of my sketch) which is close to the wharf stands up boldly from amongst the modern buildings. Forty years ago Baku was a small town with its picturesque eastern quarter, but now it is a city boasting more than a quarter of a million inhabitants, as cosmopolitan as a seaport on the Mediterranean. The extraordinary change is of course due to the discovery of oil, which has brought wealth, ugliness, and other undesirable things to the surrounding country.

The country round Baku is hideous, a sort of eruption of oil derricks covers miles of it. These are pyramidal buildings like square mill chimneys, only considerably thicker at the base, and there are no less than 2000 at Balakhani closely packed together. There is such an abundance of oil that in many parts it is only necessary to make a hole in the ground with a stick and a jet of flame will rise in the air. On still nights it is possible to set light to the oil which gathers on the surface of the sea. No wonder that the Parsees worshipped the strange fire, and there still exists a curious temple at a place called Surakhany, about half a day’s journey from Baku, where the so-called “eternal fires” burn, though the last worshippers left it some quarter of a century ago. The modern spirit has changed it into a profitable petroleum factory.

The town is evidently well worth seeing, but the pitiless rain drove us to the Hotel d’Europe, and we were glad to resume our journey, deciding to go round by Tiflis instead of direct from Baku to Vienna. There is a through train to the frontier, Volochisk, which takes four nights and three days, and from thence it is another day and night journey to Vienna. We were told that it would be only a difference of hours if we took the other route, and that by so doing we could see the magnificent pass through the Caucasus, travelling from Tiflis to Vladikavkaz by public automobile. It was impossible in Baku to ascertain anything definite as to the hours of starting or arriving of the automobile, but as our train was due at 6.30 A.M. we fondly imagined we should be in time to catch it. Nothing of the sort. With Russian perversity it started in connection with no train, but at 6 A.M. We could hardly regret the delay, however, for we found ourselves in such comfortable quarters at the quiet Hotel de Londres, which had been recommended to us, and we should have appreciated it the more had we known then that they were the last beds we should occupy till we reached London a week later.

Tiflis is well worth a visit: it is situated on the lofty banks of a tumultuous river, and its green and red roofs, varied by the gleaming domes of the churches, are most picturesque. There is a large number of these, and Tiflis has become the home of many religious refugees, for in order to stamp out heresy, orthodox Russia exiles her Baptists, Stundists, &c., to the outlying parts of the empire, such as Siberia and the Caucasus. It boasts a fine German church, also a Swedish mission, and a depôt of the Bible Society. The Swedish missionaries have been working there for twenty-two years, but are not allowed by the Government to have any medical or educational work, which greatly limits their usefulness. It is hard work, but bravely done.

Tiflis is noted for its sulphur baths, and attracts many visitors from different parts of Russia on that account. After a drive round the town we went up the funicular railway, and from the summit a magnificent panoramic view is to be had, for Tiflis is in the heart of the mountains. The ruins of the old walls can be traced on the north side of the river, and the old Georgian fortress, now included in the botanical garden. Tiflis was founded in the fifth century, and became the capital of the Georgian kingdom in the beginning of the sixth century. It fell into the hands of Russia in 1801, and the feelings of the Georgians are still intensely bitter after a century of foreign rule. It is a cosmopolitan city, and Professor Brugsch estimates that seventy languages may be heard in it. One unusual feature of the population is that the men are double the number of the women.

At 5.30 next morning we set out for the automobile and secured our seats; it was a covered car to seat nine passengers, but we were only six, which certainly seemed a sufficient load for the road we had to cover. The earlier part of the way we sped through pretty wooded country, with picturesque villages and ruined fortresses dotted among the crags on either side of the road. They were not so numerous as to punctuate the scenery in the way they do on the Rhine, but just to remind one that this was the Georgian military road in the old days. Our chauffeur was a good one, but unfortunately his hooter was as hoarse as a raven and not even as loud, so that there was no means of warning the vehicles ahead, which caused constant delay on the narrow road. Before we had proceeded far we saw a comical accident owing to the soft condition of the road; a private motor car on one side and a cart on the other had each sunk deep into the soil in trying to avoid one another. Fortunately there was plenty of assistance at hand, for the cart belonged to a party of emigrants, and soon both vehicles were dug out and pushed on to solid ground.

The day was beautiful, and the scent of hawthorn, wild roses and thyme, yellow azalea and lime-trees filled the air, and the scenery became increasingly wild and beautiful. After three hours’ drive we halted for half-an-hour near a town on the outskirts of which musketry practice was going on, then we began the main ascent of the pass. The road became very steep, and the air cold and damp as we zig-zagged up the mountain. There were brilliant patches of kingcups, and amongst them beautiful tall snowdrops in great profusion. Instead of cultivated land there were pastures full of flocks of sheep and goats, shepherded by bright-looking boys. Of all the passes I have seen in Europe this is certainly the finest. One seems to be right amongst the snow fields, and the road sometimes passes between high walls of snow or through sheds built with great solidity. We stopped one hour for lunch at the village where we met the automobile going the reverse way, and again later at the foot of Mt. Kasbec for another half-hour. Kasbec is 16,546 feet in height, namely, 100 feet higher than Mont Blanc. On its slope there is a typical Caucasian village, as seen in the sketch. From the time when we started on the down-hill road, however, we lost all pleasure in the scenery. Our driver suddenly became utterly reckless under the influence (as we learnt later on) of pressure brought to bear on him by one of the passengers, who wanted to arrive early at Vladikavkaz. We simply dashed down the road and round corners, at the imminent peril of our necks, scattering horses and carts in wild confusion into the ditch or up banks to what seemed to be certain destruction. Only once did the chauffeur stop, on the demand of a man with a rifle; he admitted that he was frightened, for not long ago the auto had been held up by brigands. It was a momentary pause, however, and we dashed on as recklessly as before. Finally on entering the town a horse took fright and dragged its cart into the ditch, overturning it completely, but the chauffeur merely smiled and drove on. How thankful we were to draw up safely at last at the Grand Hotel at Vladikavkaz at 6 P.M. We had some hours to spare before our train started, so we made our way to the telegraph office in order to wire home. The polite clerk, in answer to our inquiry, said that it took much less time to telegraph to England than to any place in Russia, and that it would probably be delivered in London in an hour’s time; in point of fact, the telegram was never delivered at all. German we found the foreign language best understood in Russia, and for the benefit of inexperienced travellers I will conclude my volume with a brief account of our crossing the frontier.

At Tiflis we gave up our passports (according to regulation) to the hotel-keeper, stating where we had come from and our next halting place, namely Vienna. The police have to put their official signatures on the passport wherever you stop on Russian soil, but also in addition something further when you wish to leave the country, and every time the passport is visé-ed the traveller has to pay. We presumed that this had been properly done at Tiflis, having paid for it, but when we reached Volochisk and the officials came for all the passengers’ passports, they looked at ours and returned them to us in a rough, surly way, saying something that we could not understand, instead of carrying them off with the others. Every one was locked up in the train, and in due course of time the officials returned with the passports and gave them back to their owners. They pointed us to the door, and proceeded to put our luggage out. A lady from an adjoining carriage came and explained the situation; the passports had not been properly signed for leaving the country, and we should have to telegraph to the police at Tiflis before we should be allowed to leave. “How long will it take?” we asked in dismay. “Oh! not more than three or four days!” We inquired if there was no method of tipping by which we could escape such a dismal prospect, but she was emphatic in denying it. She suggested, however, that by treble payment we could send a quick telegram instead of a slow one, and she got her husband to go and explain our sad condition to the officer in charge of the station. He was fortunately able to speak a little German, and he ordered an underling to go and write the necessary telegram to the police at Tiflis. The little colonel was in full regimentals, and wore spurs, and the station had a military guard; he had to be there on arrival of every train apparently, and acted as stationmaster. He reassured us by saying that we might hope for an answer in the course of the afternoon (it was now about ten in the morning), in which case we could take the evening train to Vienna. We had the melancholy satisfaction of finding that we were not the only people whose passports were unsatisfactory; in fact no one seemed surprised about it except ourselves. We tried to beguile the weary hours by watching the custom-house officials enjoying themselves over the parcel post; a number of muslin dress lengths were unpacked and inspected, as well as sundry other things. The restaurant was a source of amusement as well as comfort to us, and was far superior to an English one at a similar station. At long intervals trains arrived, and we visited the telegraph office from time to time.

We studied the “toilette” that went on in the ladies’ waiting-room, and when night came and still no answer, we debated what to do next. At 9.30 we saw our hopes of a comfortable bed next night disappear, but we still felt it would be well to leave at 2.30 A.M. if fate permitted. The “hotel,” a small cottage within sight of the station, we did not fancy, so we resigned ourselves to the small rest obtainable on a wooden bench and the window ledge. Every time a train arrived the colonel appeared also, and I fear he got rather tired of our polite request for information; the importunate widow would have had no chance with him. What an extraordinary occupation for an officer; but he sought to beguile the time by hob-nobbing with the large staff of employees who, doubtless for an absurdly small wage, spend most of the twenty-four hours loafing about the railway.

At last the night ended, and we saw with pity a group of emigrants trying to breakfast under a dull drizzling sky opposite the station. A friendly porter gave us the news we were longing for—a telegram had arrived. No words can express our delight, for we seemed to know every stone of that railway platform, and we rushed to the office to demand our passports, of which the officials had taken possession. Our detention had lasted twenty-four hours, and as we shook the dust from our feet we failed not to be thankful for the Providence which caused us to be citizens of a land of liberty instead of tyranny. It is only in Russia that one thoroughly realises it; and the irksomeness of it becomes intolerable. “Implicit obedience, silent subjection, and the irresistible power of despotism are here brought home effectively to the stranger. But this impression remains with the traveller throughout the entire journey—

‘Be silent; keep yourselves in curb—
We are watched in look and word.’

An Empire of one hundred and thirty millions of prisoners and of one million gaolers—such is Russia.”

FOOTNOTES

[1] Whigham’s “Manchuria and Korea,” pp. 117-119, 153, 49.

[2] This wise policy has been consistently carried out ever since. In 1878 there was not a single Manchu governor or viceroy of any of the eighteen provinces of China. (Ross, p. 566.)

[3] When it was made known at the opening of the hospital that more furnishings were required, many gifts, both in money and requisites, were at once contributed, while two merchants told the doctor to apply to them for money as it was needed, which he did several times till the hospital was completed.

[4] Dr. Arthur Smith, the well-known authority on Chinese customs, told me that the reason for the non-burial of children in China is due to the fact that they are not recognised as an integral part of the family till after marriage. Consequently it is not uncommon to marry them after death, in order to be able to give them an adopted son to perpetuate the family, and to offer worship at the ancestral shrine. In one case of which he knew, the corpse of the bride was carried with great pomp to the village where the bridegroom had lived, and they were both buried together.

[5] Kûfic is the name given to the characters in which the Koran was originally written; it ceased to be used after the tenth century.

[6] Hakluyt Society’s Publications, “The Voyage of Friar William de Rubruquis,” p. 166.

[7] _Samarkande la bien gardée_, by Durrieux and Fauvelle, p. 183.

[8] Arnold’s “Preaching of Islam,” p. 185.

[9] See “The Heart of Asia: a History of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the Earliest Times,” by F. H. Skrine and E. D. Ross.

INDEX

Abdullah, 190

Afforestation, 177

Afghanistan, 226, 230

Agriculture in Korea, 125
in Siberia, 173

Alexander the Great, 203

American Missions, 68, 80

Amir of Bokhara, 201, 203, 221

Amu Daria, 183

Amur region, 158

Ancestor worship, 70, 86

Angara River, 155

An-san, 103

Antung, 58, 61, 73

Aphrosiab, 219

Arabian Invasion, Turkestan, 223
Mohammedanism, 223

Aral Sea, 174, 175

Arctic Ocean, 162, 163

Arithmetic, 38

Arnold, 223

Asceticism, Mohammedan, 224

Ashekhabat, 160

Ashiho, Ch. xiii.

Askabad, 230

Astor House, Moukden, 31

Australasia, 38

Australian Presbyterians, 79, 108

Azerbijana, 198

Baber, 195

Baghdad, 195

Baikal, Lake, 154, 159, 162

Bajazet, Sultan, 200

Baku, 231-233

Balak Nani, 223

Balkh, 223

Baltic fleet, 112

Baptists, 233

Baths, Chinese, 142
Sulphur, 234

Bazaars, 185, 214, 226

Behren, 22

Beng, 226

Bibi Khanum, 209-213
Little, 210, 213

Bible Society, B. and F., 161, 173, 174, 222, 233
Study, 38, 75, 77, 82
Women, 77, 143

Black Sea, 169, 174

Blanc, Edouard, 191, 218

Blanc, Mont, 236

Blind, 49, 81

Bokhara, Ch. xx., 176, 183, 201, 208, 215, 218

Boxers, 22, 23

Braille, 81

Bronzes, 21, 22

Broussa, 201

Browning, 175

Brugnière, Monseigneur, 89, 90

Brugsch, 234

Buddhism, 45, 70

Buddhists, 48, 49, 57, 159

Buriats, 159-162

Burkans, 160

Bushnell, 21

Camels, 214, 227

Cano, Empress, 198, 199, 209-213

Capus, 172, 182

Carpets, 209, 217

Carts in Turkestan, 181

Caspian Sea, 175, 231

Catherine of Russia, 223

Caucasus, Ch. xxi.

Chang Chun, 8

Chang Shan, 47, 51

Chéliabinsk, 166

Chemkend, 183

Chemulpo, 134-137

Chiao, Mr., 67, 114, 122, 130, 133, 177

Child burial, 42, 43

“Chinese Art,” 21
generosity, 25, 27
industry, 125
windows, 101
writing, 63, 68, 121, 124

Ching dynasty, 18

Christie, Dr., 23, 26

Church, Chemulpo, 136
Liao Yang, 40, Ch. iv., 56
Moukden, 22
Pyöng Yang, 74-77
Tiflis, 233

Citadel of Samarkand, 201, 203

Clavijo, 195, 197, 199, 210

College, Union, 78, 79

Colonisation, Manchuria, 6, 34
Siberia, 158

Colporteurs, 173, 174

Commercial college, 55

Concessions, timber, 73
mining, 61

Confucianism, 70, 77

Conference, Edinburgh World Missionary, 50, 80

Constantinople, 186

Consul, English, 17, 20, 141

Convicts, 155, 158

Cossacks, 165, 230

Court life, Korea, 96-101

Crops in Manchuria, 7, 45
Korea, 107

Crown Prince, Korea, 98-99
Princess, 99

Crypt, Tamerlane’s Tomb, 192

Currency, 33, 40, 213

Custom-house, 151, 152, 238

Curtin, Jeremiah, 159-162

Dallet, Père, 92

Dalny, 138-140
Steamer to, 134, 135

Damascus, 200

Danish Lutheran Mission, 27

Daveluy, 91

“Deer’s horns,” 22, 29

Delhi, 195, 196

Diamond Mountains, Ch. xii.

Dnieper River, 174

Don River, 174

Doolittle, 31

Durrieux, 212

Ear-muffs, 5, 26

Education, Korea, 53, 61, 79, 81, 128, 129
Manchuria, 28, 37, 38
Medical, 27
Moslem, 145, 204-208, 223, 224
Russian, 164, 165, 182, 206
Siberia, 162, 164
Theological, Korea, 79

Elephants, 198

Elms, 178, 215

Emperor, late Chinese, 23
Korean, 73, 96-100, 102

Empress Cano, 198-200, 209-213
late Dowager, China, 23
Min, Korea, 98-102

Emigrants, Chinese, 34

English language, 140

Eunuchs, 97, 99, 101

Execution, 144, 208

Exiles, 233

“Face of Korea,” 65-148

Fauvelle, 212

Flowers, Caucasus, 235
Korea, 107, 117, 123
Manchuria, 52

Foo Ling tombs, 12, 16-19

Fox temples, 31, 32, 45

Fusan, Ch. xi.

Gale, Dr., 103

Genghiz Khan, 145, 194, 195, 204

Geography, 38

Georgians, 234, 235

German Church, 233
language, 140, 188, 237

Giggies, 67

“Gluttonous Place,” 208

Gold mining, 63, 156

Grain market, 213

Gur Amir, 189-192

Hazret, 175

Hazréti Shah Zindeh, 215-217

Hazréti Timur mosque, 175

“Heart of Asia,” 229

Hell, Temple of, 32, 48

Herbelot, 205

Hingking, 12

Hissar, 214

_Histoire de l’Église de Korée_, 84

Holden, 195

“Home of Tamerlane,” Ch. xviii.

Horse sacrifice, 160

Hospitals: Hsin Muntun, 34, 35
Chemulpo, 136, 137
Liao Yang, 48
Moukden, 23-28

Hotels: Astor House, Moukden, 31
Commercial, Kazan, 220
d’Europe, Kazan, 220
Baku, 232
de France, Tashkent, 178
Grand, Samarkand, 188
Vladikavkaz, 236
Londres, Tiflis, 233
Russian, Kharbin, 3
Yamato, Kwan-cheng-tze, 8

Hsin Muntun, 25, Ch. iii.

Hulan, Ch. i., 142

“Hunger Desert,” 188

Immigrants, 174

India, 194-196, 198, 226

International Sleeping Car, 148, 152

Invocation, Buriat, 160, 161

Iranian, 184

Irish Presbyterian, 27

Irkutsk, 155-157, 164

Irtish River, 164

Ishan, 224

Islam, 194, 196, 218, 222, 224, 226

Ito, Prince, 106

Ivan the Terrible, 194

Jade, 21, 191

Jagatai, 185

Japanese banks, 104, 105, 138
inns, 60, 61
occupation of Korea, 105
of Dalny, 138, 139
officers, 59, 107, 131
steamers, 111, 134, 137
trade, 139
traveller, 59, 60
war, Korea, 85
Russia, 42, 43, 73

Jaxartes, 175

Jenkinson, 231

Jesuits, 85, 146

Jews, 145, 156

“Journey in Southern Siberia,” 161

Kaaba, 216

Karagatch, 215

Kasbec, Mount, 236

_Katholische Missions Statistik_, 92

Kazan, 176, 220, 221, 228

Kelan, 227

Keuk Tash, 201

Kharbin, 3, 4, 57, 141, 148, 167, 178

Khiva, 122, 183

Khojend, 183, 185

Khokand, 183, 226

Khorasan, 194

Ki Cha, 68, 71, 72

Kil Moksa, 77, 78

Kim, André, 91

Kinel, 167-169

Kirghiz, 165, 172, 175
Steppes, 172

Kitchener, 45

Kite-flying, 46

Kobdo, 163

Koran, 189, 206, 212, 216, 225, 229

Korea, history, 72, 73
population, 62, 63
size, 62
war with China, 73
Japan, 85

Korean education, 63, 79, 81, 128, 129
dress, 71, 76, 94, 96, 100
gate, Liao Yang, 42, 43
generosity, 80, 83
hats, 69
official life, 96, 97
products, 63, 107
script, 63
shops, 68
“Sketches,” 103
water-carriers, 69

Krasnojarsk, 162

Krasnovodsk, 231

Krapotkin, 164, 184

Krose, 92

Kûfic, 190

Kurgan, 166

“Kuropatkin’s Eye,” 44

Kwan-cheng-tze, 6, 40

Land nationalisation, 157, 158

Li Dsuchung, 13

Liao Tong, 42, 138

Liao Yang, 12, 40, Ch. iv.

Lobanoff, 73

Long White Mountains, 23

Louis, Saint, 197

Madressah, 187, 223
Bibi Khanum, 209-213, 216
El Azhar, 223
Ishrak Khaneh, 219
Khodja Akhrar, 219
Shir Dar, 207
Tilla Kari, 204, 208, 209
Timur Malik, 219
Uleg Beg, 204-207

Manchester, 214

Manchus, The, 11-15, 42

Manchu dress, 14, 36
dynasty, 11, 12, 14, 43
history, 11-15
inns, 52
marriage, 15
policy, 13

Manchuria town, 3

“Manchuria’s Strategic Railway,” 59

Medical Missions, 23-28, 48, 142, 143
assistants, 26, 48, 137
training college, 26, 27

Medicines, Chinese, 46, 47

Merv, 222

Mesnevi, 225

Methodist Episcopal, 80

Ming dynasty, 13, 20
tombs, 19, 20

Mining concessions, 63

Mission, American Methodist Episcopal, 80, 81
American Presbyterian, 79
Australian Presbyterian, 79, 108
Canadian Presbyterian, 79
Danish Lutheran, 27
Greek Orthodox Church, 161, 165, 222
Irish Presbyterian, 29, 36-39
Scotch Presbyterian 7, 27, 48, 50
Roman Catholic, 64, Ch. x., 104, 136
Salvation Army, 104
Swedish Mission, 221, 233
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, 89, 136, 137

“Missions Etrangères,” 89

Mistletoe, 18, 19

Moffett, Dr., 79

“Mogul Emperors of Hindustan,” 195

Mohammedan mosques, 145, 185, 186, 219, 226, 227
schools, 145, 187, 204-208

Mohammedanism, China, 145, 146
Bokhara, 223, 224, 229
Siberia, 165, 166, 171
Turkestan, 185, 186, 206, 225, 226, 229

Monasteries, 52, 53, 57, 121

Mongol customs, 160
empire, 195
raids, 194, 223

Monks, 53, 56, 57, 120-122

Moscow, 214, 226

Moukden, Ch. ii., 58

Mullah, 191, 206, 215, 224

Museums, 22, 60

Nadir Shah, 191

Naval commission, 26
battle, 112, 136

Nestorian Church, 222

Newchwang, 25, 55

New Hebrides, 109

Nippon Yusen Kaisha, 137

Noorhachu, 11, 12, 18

Officers, Japanese, 59, 107, 123, 124, 131
Russian, 238, 239

Oil fields, 232

Omsk, 164

Ongons, 159

Orenburg, 166, 171

Orthodox Church, 161, 165, 222

Othman, 212

Oxus River, 183

Oyama, General, 25

Pailow, 19

Palace, Moukden, 20-22
Samarkand, 211-213, 215, 216
Seoul, 93-102

Parsees, 232

Passports, 237, 239

Peasants, Russian, 172, 173

Pedlars, Korean, 129

Peking, 13-15, 19, 43, 168

Permits, 176

Persians, 185, 201, 209, 228
architecture, 189, 190, 198

Petropavlosk, 165

Pichtack, 205

Piek-i, 85, 86

Pioneer Point, 71

Police, Russian, 176, 237-239

Poplars, 178, 215

Population, Korea, 62, 63
Siberia, 157, 158
Tashkent, 181
Tiflis, 234

Porcelain, 21, 22

Port Nicolas, 73

“Preaching of Islam,” 223

Presbyterians, 7, 27, 34-37, 79, 108

Prisons, 88, 155, 224

Protestant Missions, 64, 73

Psalm reader, 165

Pyöng Yang, 62, Ch. vii., viii.

Raleigh, Sir Walter, 21

Railway, Japanese, 8, 40, 51, Ch. vi., 105, 107, 108, 135
Russian, 8, 167, 173, 174, 220
South Manchurian, 34, 35
Trans-Siberian, Ch. xv.
International Sleeping Car Co., 152, 153, 157
Russian State Express, 152, 153, 157, 166

Red Cross, 25, 174, 222

Reftari khiraman, 225

Refugees, Moukden, 24

Reis, 224

Remedios, Jean dos, 87

Righistan, 204, 212

Ritual worship, 21

Roman Catholics, 64, Ch. ix., 104

Ross, Dr., 13

Rubruquis, de, 197-199

Russians, 203, 217, 221, 229, 230
occupation (Moukden), 23
police, 176, 237-239

Russo-Japanese war, 42, 73, 136

Sacrée Congrégation de la Propagande, 89

Saïd, Mir Berke, 191

Sámánids, 204

Samara, 167

Samarkand, 183, 187, Ch. xix., 222
_la bien gardée_, 212, 218

Sarts, 184, 202, 203, 206, 218

Schools, 37, 38, 81, 129, 145, 164, 187, 204-208

Seminary, Paris, 92

Senghoun-i, 85, 86

Seoul, Ch. x., 131, 132, 134, 135

“Seven Hates,” 11, 12

Shahr-i-Sabz, 193

Shamanism, 70, 159

Sheep, Kirghiz Steppes, 172

Shimonoseki, 110

Shinto, 110

Shops, 16, 68, 69, 180, 214

Siberia, 154-170
climate, 154
crops, 159
land tenure, 158
missions, 165
native inhabitants, 159, 165
population, 157, 158, 162
size, 158
trade, 156

Silks, 210, 214

Skrine, 229

Slavery, 225, 229

Smith, Dr. Arthur, 43 _note_

“Social Life of the Chinese,” 31

Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, 104, 136, 137

Songdo, 81

South Kensington Museum, 22

Storks, 184, 227

Stundists, 233

Sulphur baths, 234

Sungari River, 3, 5

Sunnites, 224

Surakhany, 232

Swedish Mission, 221, 233

Syr Daria, 175, 200

Taidsoo, 12

Taiga, 164

Tamerlane, 175, Ch. xviii., 201, 204

Tang Shan, 25

Taoist temple, 54

Tartars, 162

Tashkent, 168, 170, 176, Ch. xvii., 203, 206

Ta-tsing, 13

“Ten Parts Imperfect One,” 48

Teragai, 193

Tide, Korea, 112

Tientsin, 91

Tiflis, 232-234

Time-table, 169

Tobolsk, 165

Tombs, Daniel’s, 217, 218
Korean, 71, 102-104
Ming, 13, 19, 20
Moukden, 12, 16-19, 28-30
Shah Zindeh’s, 215, 216
Tamerlane’s, 189-193

Tomsk, 163, 164, 174

Tonghak, 73

Toprach, 219

Tortoise, 19

Trans-Baikal, 154

Translation Society, 162

Trans-Siberian Railway, Ch. xv.

Travel hints, 132, 133, 152, 153, 237

“Travels in Central Asia,” 226

Tschagu Tschiendogu, 120

Tschang Do, 125

Tsiou, 87, 88

Turanians, 223

“Turkestan, Into,” Ch. xvi.
history, 183
town, 175

Turks, 200

Tycho-Brahé, 205

Tyenaga, 59

Uhér, 160

Uleg Beg, 204, 205

Union Medical College, Moukden, 27

Union Theological Seminary, 78, 79

United Free Church of Scotland, 27

Un Mun, 61

Usturdi, 160, 161

Uzbegs, 175, 185

Vambéry, 190, 223, 225

Vienna, 169, 232, 233

Vladivostock, 146, 162, 166

Volga, 174

Volochisk, 233, 237-239

“Voyage of Friar William de Rubruquis,” 198

Wagons Lits, 183

War god, 70

Water carriers, 70

Watering roads, 183, 184

Waterproofs, 131

Waterworks, Japanese, 70

Westwater, Dr., 46

White Sea, 174

Wiju, 59

Wolff, 224

Woman, 186

Women’s Mission Work, 27, 28, 77, 142-144, 222

Wonsan, 108, 111

X-rays, 25

Xavier, Francis, 146

Yalu River, 59

Yamaga, 73

Yamato Hotel, Dalny, 138
Kwan-cheng-tze, 6

Yenisei River, 162, 163

Young, Dr., 17

Young Men’s Christian Association, 104, 132

Yun, Hon. T. H., 61

Zenedjin’s Tomb, 184

Zenghiata’s Tomb, 184

Zoological Gardens, 104

Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO.
Edinburgh & London

=Transcriber’s Note:= The following errata slip was contained in this book, and the change has been made:

On p. 188, line 2 of text, _for_ known as, _read_ as bare as.