Chapter XVI

COAST VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA TOWARDS THE SOUTH.--JACKSON
ISLAND.--CAPE BROER RUYS.--BOAT JOURNEY.--EXPLORATION
OF FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.[89]

Departure from Sabine Island.--Storm from the North.--Landing
on the Eastern Cape of Jackson Island.--Excursions.--Further
progress Southwards.--Cape Broer Ruys.--Hudson’s “Hold with
Hope.”--Boat journey along the Coast to explore Mackenzie’s
Inlet.--Esquimaux huts.--Pleasures of boat-journeying.--Icebergs
to the South.--Indication of the proximity of large
Fjord.--Journey to Cape Franklin.--Payer and Copeland ascend
the point of Cape Franklin.--Discovery of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s
Fjord.--Payer’s account of the ascent of the point of Cape
Franklin.

The next day was Sunday; and after all necessary work had been done, the men were allowed a short holiday, which they well deserved, and which many employed in taking leave of the spot which for a whole year had been their home.

But home was not to be thought of yet, since to all appearances this summer, as regarded the condition of the ice, was far more favourable than the last. From Germaniaberg, towards the south and south-east, there was open water on all sides between the floes. At night we had a sudden four hours’ storm from the north; this was the first time we had seen real storm-clouds in Greenland, although there was neither thunder nor lightning.

On the 1st of August, at ten minutes past six a.m., we weighed anchor and steamed out of our harbour. Between Cape Wynn and Flache Bay were large brashes of land-ice which had been broken in the night from Clavering Straits, and driven south; but eventually we pushed our way through the masses to Jackson Island, partly for further scientific observations, and partly to increase our collection.

We anchored at four p.m. south of the east cape of the island. The mountains rose above 1000 feet, and on the east side were steep cliffs and slopes, so that close to the shore were still two fathoms of water. The astronomers took observations and collected geological specimens. Dr. Pansch botanized, and Lieutenant Payer climbed the highest points of the island to survey it in detail. Some remains of Esquimaux huts were found, also some skulls and sundry implements. Traces of the musk-ox and reindeer were everywhere visible.

Upon landing, we had but to cross a short stretch of dark sand and stones, when we found ourselves upon a green plain, covered thickly with various kinds of grass, and with the blossom of the taraxacum and ranunculus. The elegant sprays of the stellaria wound themselves far and near, whilst in the soft-cushioned moss were some stiff willow bushes. Here in our shirt sleeves we chased the butterfly, which was fluttering from flower to flower, it was the small brown bluish variegated _Argynnis polaris_ (Boisd.), and _Argynnis chariclea_ (Herbst), that we already knew from Pendulum Island; our attention was also drawn to a larger fine yellow butterfly, which we eventually caught, the _Colias Hecla_.

We also found the already well-known spider (_Lycosa aguilonaris_, Koch). It is interesting to know that this species is also met with among the glaciers of the European Alps.

Farther westward the thick turf, plants, and grass grew more in clumps and bushes. Besides those always met with, was the beautiful willow rose (_Epilobium latifolium_, L.); it grew in small bushes by Cape Mary; here it was not in bud, but from three to five large blossoms perfectly developed, stood close together on one stalk of a beautiful red colour. There were also many other beautiful flowering plants which have already been mentioned.

Later on the boats took us still more westward; where, on a small steep promontory, the burgomaster-gull had its nesting-place; there were about six nests, from one of which a hungry young one stretched its grey head.

We stopped here to collect plants, and we were not disappointed; luxuriant were the leaves of the Oxyria and others in the rocky fissures. Dr. Pansch here looked out for something new, and found to his delight a row of elegant plants with pale violet blossoms, the common eye-bright (_Euphrasia officinalis_, L.), which we never met with again.

A walk the next day on the mountain to the west showed us that vegetation was pretty luxuriant everywhere. From hence we turned to the rocky heights of the East Cape, under which the Germania was anchored; here we were met by a flock of screaming burgomaster-gulls; there must have been from ten to fifteen nests. Amongst the rolling pebbles, nearly under the overhanging rocks, were thick bushes of the large-leaved Oxyria in bloom.

In ornithology we found nothing new; but Dr. Copeland picked up on the shore several black feathers, which undoubtedly belonged to two different kinds of duck, the _Anser albifrons_ and _leucopsis_. Sea-swallows were in large flocks.

From the form and position of the land on this spot, we conjectured that there might be some ancient traces of the natives, and possibly some winter huts; these, however, did not turn up; but we found a few tent-rings and some long four-cornered ruined heaps of stone, which we took to be graves, but found nothing amongst them. On the cliffs of the East Cape, however, something interesting was discovered. Amongst the loose stones, Peter Iversen pulled out what he thought to be a piece of drift-wood, but it proved to be a regularly worked long four-cornered plank, with fine holes along the edge. We turned over the stones and found some more planks, also a well-preserved skull and some arm and leg bones.

How could we account for this strange discovery? Evidently the body had been purposely buried under the stones; that it should have come there by chance was not probable. We could think of no other solution than that of some religious motive. Upon putting the boards together, we had a box of 9·4 inches in length, 6 inches in breadth, and about 3·2 inches high; the boards were one-fifth of an inch thick; it had had a partly closed lid, only a space of 1·7 inches broad being left open; instead of hinges there were small straps, and on the other side a hole, showing that there must have been some sort of a fastening. The boards were put together by small wooden nails or pegs.

Without doubt, of all the things we had discovered, this box showed the most artistic workmanship; and taking into consideration the little use such an implement would be in an Esquimaux household, and the peculiar spot on which it was found, the supposition that it must in some way be connected with the religious worship of the natives seems justified.

Close by among the rocks, Dr. Copeland found a well-preserved piece of a stone vessel, which the Esquimaux hang over their lamps; it seemed to have been rounded off at the edges, was long and four-cornered and about three inches and three-quarters thick; it was of opaque stone and carefully worked. The underneath part and sides were covered with a coating of soot.

From all this we gathered that the island had been visited by the natives several times, but that they had made no long stay, possibly because the neighbourhood was not favourable to the musk-ox and other animals.

During the night large masses of land-ice were loosened, which set with great speed eastward, so that towards the morning of the 2nd of August we could see from the neighbouring mountain of 800 feet high that southward to Cape Broer Ruys and beyond there was much open water. Lieut. Payer suggested exploring Gael Hamkes Bay; but upon consideration Captain Koldewey thought it better to go further south, and if possible penetrate into one of the larger sounds, either Scoresby’s Sound, or Davy Sound, as Scoresby reported that they stretched far inland.

The weather remained fine and bright, with light sou’west and west winds, thereby driving the ice from the land and opening a free passage for us. In the best of spirits we weighed anchor on the morning of the 3rd of August, and steered south in a temperature of 11° to 13° above freezing. After going some distance, as there was apparently an impassable block of ice to the south, we steered westward, and anchored under the coast. One glimpse from the mountains above showed that, as far as the eye could reach, the ice lay firm to the land, and that the entrance to the great Sound at that time was impracticable. Bontekoe Island was enclosed in ice.

We therefore agreed upon a boat journey along the coast to westward, to investigate what on Clavering’s chart was marked as Mackenzie Inlet. The further we advanced southward the greener and more beautiful became the country. Comparing these far stretching valleys and mountain slopes and the in some places luxuriant growth of grass and sward with the scant vegetation of Sabine Island, we could scarcely believe that we were not more than one degree of latitude from it. Many herds of reindeer were grazing here, and musk-oxen were by no means rare. At noon the temperature rose to above 54°, and in swampy places were swarms of mosquitos (_Tipula truncorum_, Meig.).

Of birds, besides snow-buntings there were some shore-birds, such as _Strepsilas interpres_ and _Tringa maritima_. Except a few tent-rings, nothing reminded us of the Esquimaux. Farther westward the appearance of the ground changed; the whole promontory was covered with vegetation resembling the early spring-time at home when the fresh green is everywhere, but the growth of the plants is still low. Here the different kinds of knotgrasses; two kinds of cotton-grass, _Eriophorum polystachium_ (L.), and _Eriophorum scheuchzeri_ (Hppe.), and several kinds of _Carex_, as well as _Juncus biglumis_ (L.), and other plants before mentioned, flourished.

In several places we met with the bilberry (_Vaccinium_): this was the most northerly point of the coast, and though the plants were plentiful they were low and the wood soft; signs of fruit or blossom were nowhere to be seen.

When the boat started for Mackenzie Inlet, Dr. Pansch remained on board, although everything seemed to promise well both for ethnology and botany, but he thought it his duty to pay some attention to marine zoology, and hoped to bring up some fine specimens of the sea Fauna and Flora at great depths. The first dredge near the ship, at from three to five fathoms, gave crustacea, mussels, cockles, and worms, as well as some small slimy fish which were not new to us. Our hopes of enriching our collection failed partly from stormy weather, and partly because Dr. Pansch was suffering under peculiar circumstances, at one time being in an excited nervous state, and at another in apathetic drowsiness: rest and much sleep, however, soon relieved these symptoms.

In the evening we shot five reindeer easily, the herd being so confiding that they allowed themselves to be surrounded before they thought of moving. We therefore rejoiced in some fresh meat, which lately had been scarce. From constant motion in the fresh air the men’s appetites were so great that the cook grumbled from morning till night that he could never satisfy the men. With such nourishment our strength increased, our working powers were doubled, and universal good spirits reigned on board the Germania.

On the 5th of August preparations were made for a boat journey, and on the 6th we sailed at nine a.m. with provisions for eight days. The wind blew fresh from the north, and the water was as flat as the land, which just here rose but little. After a course of eight nautical miles we came to a tongue of land, beyond which the coast took a curve to the north-west. From here we soon saw that Mackenzie Inlet was only a creek into which a stream fell, often running through a valley. We sailed to the end of the creek and landed. Our men gazed with longing eyes on some reindeer which were feeding near, and soon shot one. Close against the shore, under the green slope of a hill, were the remains of some Esquimaux huts, evidently much older than those on Clavering Island. Whilst Dr. Copeland investigated these, Dr. Börgen and the Captain took the bearings of our position. During the morning we had made twelve nautical miles in three hours, and now spent the whole afternoon on our work. In the evening the Captain and Dr. Copeland climbed a hill lying to the north-west, about 475 feet high: from thence we could see the end of Loch Fine, the Fjord discovered by Clavering in 1823, behind which rose a highly picturesque mountain chain. Before us lay a plain stretching far to the south-south-west as far as Cape Franklin, and disappearing with a mountain chain to the west, marked on our chart as Bennet Island. Beyond this plain, near Cape Franklin, glittered a number of icebergs, bringing us to the conclusion that yonder must be the mouth of a large Fjord; for along the coast we had seen no glacier from which they could have sprung. Delighted with this apparent discovery we returned to the tent, agreeing that the next morning we would make for Bennet Island, and if possible advance as far as Cape Franklin.

It was the 7th of August. The sky was clouded in the east, and it had rained hard in the night. But it cleared at ten o’clock, and we set sail with a light south-easterly wind. This soon lulled, and we had to take to the oars, so that we did not reach Cape Bennet until the afternoon, when we had to seek protection in the tent from the rain.

On the morning of the 8th the fog seemed to have dispersed, and we steered straight for Cape Franklin. The icebergs increased and although the land retreated to the south-west, we could still see no glaciers. It was evident to us that we were on the point of making an important discovery. At two nautical miles east of the Cape we were obliged to halt. The ice lay fast to the land, and sheer across the mouth of the Fjord, forming a barrier that our ship could not force. The boat must, therefore, be tugged over, but before doing this it was advisable to ascertain whether it was navigable.

Tent and tools were therefore landed, and Copeland and Payer prepared to climb the mountain, 4550 feet high. After doing all necessary work, we followed, and Börgen and the Captain mounted a rocky height of 475 feet, from whence their astonished eyes beheld a landscape, which was indescribable in its extraordinary grandeur. The interior of Greenland lay there like a splendid picture, displaying the Alpine world in its highest style. At our feet lay the mouth of a great Fjord, or rather arm of the sea, perfectly free from drifting ice, but covered with numerous icebergs of from 95 to 190 feet high, and stretching westward in the far, far distance, then seeming to divide into several arms, rising even higher and higher into the regions of eternal snow and ice.

This was a moment which richly rewarded us for all our troubles and difficulties. Before us lay in all its virgin beauty the mirrored surface of these unknown waters, and if only we could succeed in bringing up our ship, what scope was there for science and discovery; aye, even into the very heart of Greenland! But it seemed almost impossible, a mailed ship could never break through this barrier of many feet. There was therefore nothing for it but to pull the boat over; preparatory to this we were to have a little rest, especially as Payer and Copeland could not return before morning.

Koldewey was, however, awoke from a beautiful morning slumber by Copeland’s voice, who, looking in at the tent, called to him that the ice had broken and was moving eastward. Jumping up, we hurried from the tent; to convince ourselves was the work of a moment, when there was a loud hurrah! “Now, my good fellows, pack up; we must be back on board to-day, and bring up the Germania.” This was answered by a cheerful “Aye, aye!” and all hands went to work. Could we yet get over seven German miles to-day?

Lieutenant Payer gives the following account of Franklin Point:--“We followed a valley running from the mountain (the other side of Cape Franklin), until we came to a raging glacier stream cut at least thirty yards deep in the perpendicular rock. How should we get to the other side? was the question. At last, going up the stream, we came to a natural bridge; the capabilities of which we tried by dropping a block of rock upon it, and then began a quick march over the declivity, fragments of which were set in motion at every step. This declivity ended at a high basalt-wall, which cut like a road through the massive rocks of the Cape, seeming to isolate them from one another. We scrambled through this confusion of rocks over a craggy ridge to the edge of a high roof-shaped glacier, and then on to a weather-beaten cone, thus reaching the north-easterly summit of the group of rocks forming the Cape.

“What an unexpected sight met our delighted eyes! A monstrous Fjord with numberless glistening icebergs lay to the westward at our feet, with its high many branching rocky masses covered with ice, sometimes enclosing real islands with rugged walls.

“More than ten German miles to westward we could see that one of the chief arms of the Fjord curved in a south-westerly direction, at the foot of a mountain-chain about 8750 feet high. To the south the solitary Cape Parry stretched far into the sea, in spite of the crowding of the pack-ice which lay silent and stiff to the farthest horizon, and through which we should one day have to make our return journey to Europe.

“It was eight p.m., as after five hours’ march we reached the summit; the temperature was 34° Fahr., and not a breath of wind was stirring; and Payer sat down without a coat to sketch the panorama, and then proceed to trigonometrical measurement. By the help of some solar observations the azimuth of the most southerly point of our trigonometrical net was decided, in order to connect our standing-point with it.

“After four hours’ stay we went along a craggy ridge to the south-west, to satisfy ourselves as to the northerly direction of the Fjord arm. At two a.m. we reached a rocky group towering above a snow plateau, the altitude of which was at least 4900 feet; and from which we convinced ourselves that the chief arm of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord was really to be sought in a northerly direction.

“At half-past four a.m. all our work was finished on this spot, and at nine we returned to our tent.”

At Bennet Island we rested, after a good meal, though five reindeer which we had shot in Mackenzie Bay had already turned bad, showing the effects of a Greenland sun. We could easily have provided some more, as a herd of twenty-two lay about 1000 paces from us, and dispersed only by degrees, with the exception of five or six who seemed to have no desire to move; this indolence, however, was not encouraged, the old leader of the herd returning and striking them with his horns, until they lazily rose and followed the others.

At the south-east cape from Bennet the loosened ice floating eastward was so heaped up, that we were obliged to tug the boat. Later on, too, we had to make a great curve in order to avoid some large drifting masses, so that not until midnight did we reach the ship, thoroughly tired out.