Chapter II: Part I

Page
1.--Introductory. 1

Visit to Penrhyn; the Cleavage of Slate Rocks; Sedgwick's
theory--its difficulties; Sharpe's observations; Sorby's
experiments; Lecture at the Royal Institution; Glacier
Lamination; arrangement of an expedition to Switzerland

2.--Expedition of 1856: the Oberland. 9

Valley of Lauterbrunnen; Pliability of rocks; the Wengern
Alp; the Jungfrau and Silberhorn; Ice avalanches; Glaciers
formed from them; Scene from the Little Scheideck; the Lower
Grindelwald Glacier; the Heisse Platte--its Avalanches; Ice
Minarets and Blocks; Echoes of the Wetterhorn; analogy with
the Reflection of Light from angular mirrors; the
Reichenbach Cascade; Handeck Fall; the Grimsel; the Unteraar
Glacier; hut of M. Dollfuss; Hotel des Neufchatelois; the
Rhone glacier from the Mayenwand; expedition up the glacier;
Coloured Rings round the sun; crevasses of the _neve_;
extraordinary meteorological phenomenon; Spirit of the
Brocken

3.--The Tyrol. 23

Kaunserthal and the Gebatsch Alp; Senner or Cheesemakers;
Gebatsch Glacier; a night in a cowshed; passage to
Lantaufer; a chamois on the rocks; my Guide; the atmospheric
snow-line; passage of the Stelvio; Colour of fresh snow;
Bormio; the pass recrossed by night; aspect of the
mountains; Meran to Unserfrau; passage of the Hochjoch to
Fend; singular hailstorm; wild glacier region; hidden
crevasses; First Paper presented to the Royal Society

4.--Expedition of 1857: the Lake of Geneva. 33

Blueness of the water; the head of the Lake; appearance of
the Rhone; subsidence of particles; Mirage

5.--Chamouni and the Montanvert. 37

Arrival; Coloured Shadows on the snow; Source of the
Arveiron; fall of the Vault; "Sunrise in the Valley of
Chamouni;" Scratched Rocks; quarters at the Montanvert

6.--The Mer de Glace. 42

Not a _Sea_ but a _River_ of ice; Wave-forms on its surface;
their explanation; Structure and Strata; Glacier Tables;
first view of the Dirt Bands; influence of Illumination in
rendering them visible; the Eye incapable of detecting
differences between intense lights

7. 46

Measurements commenced; the "Cleft Station" at Trelaporte;
Regelation of snow granules; two chamois; view of the Mer de
Glace and its Tributaries; _Seracs_ of the Col du Geant;
Sliding and Viscous theories; Rending of the ice; Striae on
its surface; White Ice-seams

8. 57

Alone upon the glacier; Lakes and Rivulets; parallel between
Glacier and Geological disturbance; splendid rainbow; aspect
of the glacier at the base of the Seracs; visit to the Chief
Guide at Chamouni; Liberties granted

9.--The Jardin. 61

Glacier du Talefre; Jardin divides the neve; Blue Veins near
the summit; surrounding scene; Moraines and Avalanches;
Cascade du Talefre; dangers on approaching it from above

10. 64

Lightning and Rain; Spherical hailstones; an evening among
the crevasses; Dangerous Leap; ice-practice; preparations
for an ascent of Mont Blanc

11.--First Ascent of Mont Blanc (1857). 68

Across the mountain to the Glacier des Bossons; its
crevasses; Ladder left behind; consequent difficulties; the
Grands Mulets; Twinkling and change of Colour of the Stars;
moonlight on the mountains; start with one guide;
difficulties among the crevasses; the Petit Plateau; Seracs
of the Dome du Gouter; bad condition of snow; the Grand
Plateau; Coloured Spectra round the sun; the lost Guides;
the Route missed; dangerous ice-slope; Guide exhausted;
cutting steps; cheerless prospect; the Corridor; the Mur de
la Cote; the Petits Mulets; food and drink disappear;
Physiological experiences on the Calotte; Summit attained;
the Clouds and Mountains; experiment on Sound; colour of the
snow; the descent; a solitary prisoner; second night at the
Grands Mulets; Inflammation of eyes; a blind man among the
crevasses; descent to Chamouni; thunder on Mont Blanc

12. 86

Life at the Montanvert; glacier "Blower;" Cascade of the
Talefre; difficulties in setting out lines; departure from
the Montanvert; my hosts; prospect from the Glacier des
Bois; Edouard Simond

13.--Expedition of 1858. 92

Origin and aim of the expedition; Laminated Structure of the
ice

14.--Passage of the Strahleck. 93

Unpromising weather; appearance of the glacier and of the
adjacent mountains; Transverse Protuberances; Dirt Bands;
Structure; a Slip on a snow slope; the Finsteraarhorn; the
Schreckhorn; extraordinary Atmospheric Effects; Summit of
the Strahleck; Grand Amphitheatre; mutations of the clouds;
descent of the rocks; a Bergschrund; fog in the valley;
descent to the Grimsel

15. 99

Ancient Glaciers in the valley of Hasli; Rounded, Polished,
and Striated Rocks; level of the ancient ice; Groovings on
the Grimsel Pass; glacier of the Rhone; descent of the Rhone
valley; the AEggischhorn; Cloud Iridescences; the Aletsch
glacier; the Maerjelen See; Icebergs; Tributaries of the
Aletsch; Grand glacier-region; crevasses; a chamois deceived

16.--Ascent of the Finsteraarhorn. 104

Character of my Guide; iridescent cloud; evening on the
Faulberg; the Jungfrau and her neighbours; a Mountain Cave;
the Jungfrau before dawn; contemplated visit; the Gruenhorn
Luecke; Magnificent Corridor; sunrise; neve of the Viesch
glacier; halt at the base of the Finsteraarhorn; Spurs and
Couloirs of the mountain; Pyramidal Crest; scene of
Agassiz's observations; a hard climb; discipline of such an
ascent; Boiling Point; Registering Thermometer, its fate;
daring utterance; descent by glissades; the Viesch glacier;
hidden crevasses; a brave and competent guide

17. 119

Subsequent days at the AEggischhorn; Afloat on the Icebergs;
Bedding and Structure; Ancient Moraines of the Aletsch;
Scratched Rocks; passage of the mountains to the end of the
glacier; a wild gorge; arrival at Zermatt; the Riffelberg

18.--First Ascent of Monte Rosa. 122

The ascent new to myself and my guide; directions; Ulrich
Lauener; Ominous Clouds; passage of the Goerner Glacier;
Roches Moutonnees; Avalanche from the Twins; gradual advance
of clouds; bridged chasms; Scene from a cliff; apparent
atmospheric struggle; Sound of the snow; Dangerous Edge;
Overhanging Cornice; staff driven through it; increased
obscurity; Rocky Crest; loss of pocket-book; Summit
attained; Boiling Point; fall of snow; exquisite forms of
the Snow Crystals; a shower of frozen blossoms; the descent;
mode of attachment; Startling Avalanche; Blue Light emitted
from the fissures of the fresh snow; Stifling Heat; return
to the Riffel

19. 133

The Rothe Kumm; pleasant companions; difficult descent;
temperatures of rock, air, and grass; Singular Cavern in the
ice; Structure and Stratification

20.--The Goerner Grat and the Riffelhorn; Magnetic Phenomena. 137

Formation and Dissipation of clouds; Scene from the Goerner
Grat; Magnetism of the Rocks; the Compass and Sun at
variance; ascent of the Riffelhorn; Magnetic effects; places
of most intense action; Scratched and Polished Rocks;
Exfoliation of crust produced by the sliding of ancient
glaciers; Magnetic Polarity; Consequent Points; Bearings
from the Riffelhorn; action on a Distant Needle

21. 145

Fog on the Riffelberg; its dissipation; Sunset from the
Goerner Grat; Cloud-wreaths on the Matterhorn; Streamers of
Flame; grand Interference Phenomenon; investigation of
Structure; the Goernerhorn glacier; Western glacier of Monte
Rosa; the Schwarze, Trifti, and Theodule glaciers; welding
of the Tributaries to parallel Strips; Temptation

22.--Second Ascent of Monte Rosa (1858). 151

A Light Scrip; my Guide lent; a substitute; a party on the
mountain; across the glacier and up the rocks; the guide
expostulates; among the crevasses; the guide halts; left
alone; beauty of the mountain; splendid effects of
Diffraction; Cheer from the summit; on the Kamm; climbers
meet; among the rocks; Alone on the Summit; the Axe slips;
the prospect; the descent; serious accident; a word on
climbing alone

23. 160

The Furgge glacier; thunder and lightning; the Weissthor
given up; excursion by Stalden to Saas; Herr Imseng; the
Mattmark See and Hotel; ascent of a boulder; Snow-storm;
cold quarters; the Monte Moro; the Allalein glacier; a noble
vault; Structure and Dirt-bands; stormy weather; Avalanches
at Saas; the Fee glacier; Frozen dust on the
Mischabelhoerner; Snow, Vapour, and Cloud; curious effect on
the hearing; "a Terrible Hole;" singular group; a Song from
'The Robbers'

24. 168

Need of observations on Alpine Temperature; Balmat's
intention; aid from the Royal Society; Difficulties at
Chamouni in 1858; the Intendant memorialised; his response;
the Seracs revisited; Crevasses and Crumples; bad weather;
thermometers placed at the Jardin; Avalanches of the
Talefre; wondrous sky

25.--Second Ascent of Mont Blanc (1858). 177

Shadows of the Aiguilles; Silver Trees at sunrise; M.
Necker's letter; Birds as Sparks and Stars against the sky;
crevasse bridged; ladder rejected; a hunt for a _pont_;
crevasses crossed; Magnificent Sunset; illuminated clouds;
Storm on the Grands Mulets; a Comet discovered; start by
starlight; the Petit Plateau a reservoir for avalanches;
Balmat's warning; the Grand Plateau at dawn; blue of the
ice; Balmat in danger; Clouds upon the Calotte; the Summit;
wind and snow-dust; Balmat frostbitten; halt on the Calotte;
descent to Chamouni; good conduct of porters

26. 192

Hostility of Chief Guide; Proces Verbal; the British
Association; application to the Sardinian authorities;
President's Letter; Royal Society; Testimonial to Balmat

27.--Winter Expedition to the Mer de Glace, 1859. 195

First defeat and fresh attempt; Geneva to Chamouni; deep
snow; Desolation; slow progress; a horse in the snow; a
struggle; Chamouni on Christmas night; mountains hidden;
Climb to the Montanvert; Snow on the Pines; debris of
avalanches; Breaking of snow; Atmospheric Changes; the
mountains concealed and revealed; colour of the snow; the
Montanvert in Winter; footprints in the snow; wonderful
frost figures; Crystal Curtain; the Mer de Glace in Winter;
the first night; "a rose of dawn;" Crimson Banners of the
Aiguilles; the stakes fixed; a Hurricane on the glacier; the
second night; Wild Snow-storm; a man in a crevasse; calm;
Magnificent Snow Crystals; Sound through the falling snow;
swift descent; Source of the Arveiron; Crystal Cave;
appearance of water; westward from the vault; Majestic
Scene; Farewell