Chapter IV: The Humboldt River Trail

The question arose, which of the two roads shall we pursue--follow the old road--the advantages and disadvantages of which we are pretty well informed; or shall we risk the new one of which we know nothing, except from unreliable reports.

The question was submitted to a vote of the company, and it was in favor of trying the “Cutoff,” as it is called, with scarcely a dissenting vote. Haynes and Fifield, who left the company at Raft River, left a posted notice here, which showed them to be several days in advance of us. They chose the old trail, and cautioned us against taking the new one, as it was their opinion that it was a longer and a poorer road.

The “Cutoff” leaves the Humboldt River at a bend, where it curves more southerly, and at what in later times was called “Wannamucca” on the Central Pacific Railroad. The “Cutoff” leaves the river and crosses a desert plain, very barren and slightly undulating, in a westerly direction.

We left the Humboldt with the expectation of being at the gold mines in about a week, providing the reports were reliable as to the distance. We traveled 14 miles after leaving the river before we found water. At that place we found a spring, but there being several trains camped here tonight, it was with great difficulty that we could procure water sufficient for the needs of our mules and horses.

There is not a spear of grass to be found in this section, and we were compelled to tie our mules to sage brush to keep them from straying away, without a particle of food. (Distance, 31 miles.)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15.

We started this morning at 5.30 o’clock and traveled 19 miles across a barren, undulating desert, when we came to a place known as the Rabbit Wells, where four or five wells, some 8 or 10 feet deep, have been excavated by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtaining water for themselves and their stock.

These wells, with one or two exceptions, were filled with dead animals. Having seen the water at the bottom and being so eager to obtain it, they rushed head first into them, where they perished and could not well be extricated. The water of these wells is of a poor quality and proved to be scarce.

After traveling six or seven hours over a very dusty road on a hot day, it is far better than none. There was a large number of immigrants at the wells and it was difficult to obtain a sufficient quantity of water, it being dipped up with tin cups as fast as it ran into the wells. We remained there one hour and a half and obtained what water we were able to, but could get very little for our animals. Neither was there anything for them to eat.

As we had no beef killed we had nothing for dinner. Beef had been our principal dependence for some time past. It had become very poor and we had almost nothing to cook it with. There are no “Buffalo chips” this side of the Rockies.

We started in the afternoon and at about sunset came in sight of Black Rock (Spring), which was then about nine miles distant across a level, barren plain.

When within about six miles of Black Rock one of the mules which I was driving became so exhausted that he refused to go any farther, and I was obliged to unpack and leave him with the pack by the roadside; after which I reached Black Rock at about eleven o’clock at night.

The company, with a few exceptions, had arrived in advance of me and were principally asleep. I traveled the whole distance (40 miles) on foot, and drove two mules and one horse, which made considerable extra travel. I had no dinner or supper, and after arriving at Black Rock, rolled myself in my blankets and was soon asleep.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16.

The country over which we made forty miles yesterday is known as the Black Rock Desert, and the road is literally strewn with dead animals--cattle, horses and mules. The stench of these dead and decaying carcasses contributes largely to render the traveling still more disagreeable than it would otherwise be.

The Black Rock Spring, so-called, is a spring several feet in diameter, out of which the water is continually boiling at or near a boiling point. The water may be drank after being cooled sufficiently, but is not very good water.

We started early this morning and traveled three miles where we found a small quantity of grass and camped. This is the first grass that our animals have found to eat since Friday noon--nearly 45 hours--since which time we have traveled over 60 miles. After we had camped we had a beef animal slaughtered, and a little before noon we managed to get a breakfast, which was the first that some of us had eaten since Friday night.

There are several hot springs in this vicinity. Beef will cook quite quickly in them.

Some of our mules and cattle were left behind on the road yesterday, with a few packs by the roadside.

George Carlton, with two or three others of the company, went back to procure the packs, together with as many of the animals as were able to be brought into camp. They succeeded in bringing into camp the whole number that had been left by our company. (Distance, 3 miles.)

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17.

Started in the afternoon and traveled eleven miles where we found some grass and camped.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18.

We remained here until afternoon, when we broke camp and traveled 15 miles to Mud Lake, where we stopped for the night. Our course since leaving Humboldt has been nearly northwest and we have traveled upward of 80 miles.

The country is nearly all a barren desert, with very little vegetation except wild sage. What is known as Mud Lake resembles at this time a marsh more than a lake, and is covered with large coarse grass. It may, perhaps, be more of a lake at some seasons of the year. (Distance, 15 miles.)

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19.

We did not move our camp today.

This is the point where General Palmer’s corps had a battle with the Indians a few weeks since, but we have not seen an Indian since we left the Humboldt River.

A large percentage of the immigration took this route and have passed this point, but it is thought now that the report stating that it did not exceed 180 miles from the Humboldt to Feather River mines, was very unreliable and untruthful.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20.

We started in the morning and soon after entered a canyon and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where the rocky bluffs rise nearly 300 feet almost perpendicularly on either side.

Traveled up the canyon nine miles in the afternoon and camped at a spring. Canyon I believe to be a Spanish word and means a deep gorge, ravine, or gulch between high, steep banks, worn by water courses.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21.

Cold morning. Started at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled up the canyon 12 miles in the forenoon over a very rough road. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22.

Started early in the morning and went over a ridge a distance of 7 miles, thence over a plain 10 miles and camped.

We had a distant view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains today.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23.

Traveled 5 miles today and camped at a spring.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 24.

Decamped early in the morning and after traveling 10 miles, passed several hot springs. Went 9 miles farther and found good grass and water, where we halted two hours, after which we traveled 3 miles and camped at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in some large timber, it being the first large trees we have met with since coming into the Great Interior Basin, a distance of about 700 miles. With the exception of a few small valleys along the streams and lakes and at the base of the mountains, the Great Basin seems to be a very barren country. It is a very disagreeable country to travel over.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25.

We started this morning and traveled northerly along the base of the Sierras about six miles. We then began to ascend toward the summit of the ridge, and after traveling three miles up a very steep ascent we reached the summit.

This seems to be the “Divide” between the waters of the Great Basin and those of the Pacific Ocean. After reaching the summit we soon began to descend and after a descent of one mile entered a beautiful valley. In the afternoon we traveled 10 miles through a heavy growth of yellow pine timber and camped.

It was after dark before we camped and we unpacked our mules at the top of a steep bluff overlooking a lake, known as Goose Lake. No water near our camp ground. The company is scattered tonight, having camped in several different places along the trail.

After we had camped Mr. Carlton and myself volunteered to go to the lake for water, and with buckets we started down the steep, rocky bluff which we found difficult of descent, especially in the dark. The distance was about one-half mile to the base, or shore of the lake, where we anticipated finding an abundant supply of water. But to our great disappointment, we found nothing but a field of dry sand.

However, we supposed we must be very near the shore of the lake, and started in that direction. We traveled about two miles farther over the dry sand, indulging the fond hope of soon reaching the waters of the lake, when we would have the privilege and pleasure of quenching our thirst, which was almost unbearable.

But we were doomed to disappointment as we found nothing but a lake of sand--dry and difficult to travel over; and we returned--climbed the mountain and lay down to rest as best we could. To be really thirsty, with no means of getting water, is truly a horrid sensation. (Distance, 20 miles.)

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26.

We left camp early in the morning and eventually reached an abundant supply of water.

We left the Oregon trail, which bears northerly along the west end of Goose Lake, our course being nearly south. Our camp last night was near the line separating the Territories of California and Oregon. We traveled down a valley and camped on a small mountain stream. Road good. (Distance, 17 miles.)

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 27.

After traveling a short distance this morning we came to the head of Pitt River.

Traveled down the valley 12 miles in the forenoon and 9 in the afternoon and camped on the river, which is a rapid stream nearly as large as the Humboldt.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28.

Traveled down the river 23 miles and found an excellent road and a good supply of grass.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29.

Traveled 20 miles over a rough road and camped on Pitt River. Grass good.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30.

We did not move our camp today. Latitude 40° 7´.

The valley along this river has a fertile soil and produces a good quality and a sufficient quantity of grass, but is bordered on both sides by lofty mountains, timbered with pine, fir and spruce. The Indians are said to be very hostile, but we have not met with any since crossing the mountains. They are said to have killed several immigrants within a short time.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 1.

We left camp at an early hour and traveled down the river 14 miles in the forenoon and 8 in the afternoon. We found a good road and grass plentiful.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2.

We broke camp at 7 in the morning and soon after left the river and went over a rough, hilly road 12 miles, where we stopped near a small stream and had our lunch. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.

The road was uneven and through a heavy growth of timber. We met with some oak timber on the road today, it being the first we have seen since near the Missouri line.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 3.

Started early and first traveled up a long hill, or mountain about 6 miles, and thence 5 miles farther, and finding no water we halted. In the afternoon we traveled 11 miles, where we found good water and camped. The country through which we have traveled today is well timbered.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4.

Broke camp at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and halted at Little Goose Lake. We traveled 4 miles in the afternoon, when we found a bountiful supply of good grass and water and camped.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5.

We traveled 14 miles and camped at Feather Lake, it being the source of the north fork of Feather River country appears to be nearly all very heavily timbered.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6.

We traveled 6 miles through a dense forest and reached a branch of Feather River; then traveled down the river 6 miles, where we came into a large meadow; thence down along the meadow 5 miles and camped. A branch of Feather River passes through this meadow and it is known as the Feather River Meadow.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 7.

Traveled down the river 2 miles and camped.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 8.

It was thought by many of the company that it might be practical to follow the river down to the Feather River mines, and thus save much time and travel in avoiding the long, circuitous route by the way of the Sacramento valley and Lassen’s Ranch, and consequently, six of us started in the morning with about two days’ rations, pursued a southerly course through the mountains and in six miles of travel came to a small stream. We then crossed a mountain ridge about 9 miles and came into a fine bottom prairie 8 miles in length with a small stream passing through the center. We went down the valley three miles, built a fire by the side of a large pine log, and ate our supper. The meal finished we laid ourselves down for the night--Indian fashion--keeping one at a time of the party on watch during the night to give the alarm should any Indians make their appearance. We discovered fresh Indian signs in the little valley today.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 9.

The morning was cool and very foggy. We started as soon as it was fairly light, and went on down the little valley to the southern end, where the stream enters a deep, high canyon with high precipitous mountains on both sides. We traveled down the canyon about one mile farther and found the mountains so extremely rough, we became convinced that it would be an impossibility to travel through them with mules and horses. We gave up the expedition and started for camp, where we arrived about one o’clock very much fatigued.

We did not move our camp today.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 10.

Traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and 8 miles in the afternoon and camped on Deer Creek.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 11.

A part of the night was rainy, which was not very agreeable, as we have not had our tents set for a long time, or since we left Raft River. We traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and halted at a spring where there was no grass. In the afternoon we went on 8 miles farther and camped at a spring. No grass.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12.

We started at one o’clock at night and traveled over a rough road through a dense forest 10 miles and halted, where we found water one-half mile north of the road--down a steep mountain--but no grass.

Started again at 8 o’clock and after traveling six miles we emerged from the dense forest through which we have traveled for several days past, and came into a very barren country. Went five miles farther and halted, with neither grass nor water.

In the afternoon we traveled nine miles and camped on Antelope Creek, one mile south of the road. The country through which we have traveled today is extremely rough and barren. (Distance, 30 miles.)

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13.

Break camp in the morning and after three miles of travel we entered the Sacramento valley--the valley which we have so long wished to see. Traveled eight miles farther and halted on Deer Creek.

In the afternoon we passed Lassen’s Ranch and camped on the bank of the Sacramento River. (Distance, 17 miles.)

The full distance from where we left the old trail at Winnemucca on the Humboldt to this place, as kept by me, is 466 miles; and since we left Independence, Mo., 2,130 miles.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14.

Moved our camp down the river one mile and camped again.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 15.

We did not move our camp today.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 16.

We traveled down the Sacramento 23 miles and camped on a creek. We have found fine grass since we entered this valley.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17.

We traveled 24 miles down the river and crossed Feather River and camped on the southern bank.

We are now very near Feather River mines, which we were told we could reach in 180 miles from the forks of the roads on the Humboldt at Winnemucca. Instead, as per my account, which I believe is very nearly correct, the distance is 514 miles as we have traveled it.

We left the Humboldt River, September 14, and reached here October 17, being 33 days on the “Greenhorn’s Cutoff,” as it is now commonly known. Probably nearly one-half of the immigrants came by this route.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18.

We remained encamped here today, endeavoring to make some division of the property of the Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company, but did not agree upon any plan that was satisfactory to a majority.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19.

A division of the stock--cattle, mules and horses--was effected in the forenoon, and some of us went up to the mines in the afternoon. A portion of the members appeared dissatisfied with the division. We had but few cattle left and they were very thin and in poor condition. Many of our mules and horses had died, and were left on the road; and those that were alive were nearly all seemingly worn out and of but little value.

The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company was this day dissolved by a unanimous vote of its members.

It would have been dissolved long before it reached California had it not been for the beef cattle, which were the means of holding it together. They were their principle dependence for food, and it was not practical to divide them among small squads, as they would have been of very little benefit to them.

When we entered the Sacramento valley we had but three or four young cattle and they were so very poor that they could scarcely travel. They constituted our entire stock of provisions.

Two or three gross errors were committed by the managers before we left Boston, which were the cause, in great part, of the great length of time consumed on the road. First, the company should not have consisted of more than ten members, and it should not have been a

From an Old Drawing

SUTTER’S MILL, 1849.]

joint stock company; but each member should have provided for himself as he saw fit, with mules and provisions.

Then we should have had good mules, not less than four years old, and such as had been broken to packing. The majority of our mules were not over two or three years of age and had never been broken. They were entirely unfit for the exceedingly strenuous journey “across the plains.” For a pack train to drive cattle on that journey for their dependence for their provisions is a great absurdity.

Had we traveled as rapidly as we expected and intended to have done when we started on the journey, we could not have driven our cattle very long until they would have died.

Each man should have owned three or four trained mules in good condition. I am of the opinion that under good conditions and properly managed, the journey may be made, fairly easily, in 70 days, with a good pack train consisting of 10 or 12 active, energetic and courageous men. We were about 144 days on the road, or about twice the time that should have been needed under proper conditions and management.

The last cutoff, or the “Greenhorn’s Cutoff,” as it became to be generally known, that we were induced to adopt proved to be more than 300 miles farther than it was represented to be in distance, and probably more than 200 miles longer than the old California trail that we left.

It was currently reported and probably with truth, that some time early in August, after the immigrants had begun to pass down the trail on the Humboldt River, a man with a party was sent out over the mountains and deserts by Lassen, whose ranch was located on the Sacramento River, to induce so much of the immigration as possible to take that route and which he called the “Cherokee Cutoff,” and represented the distance to be but 180 miles to the Feather River mines, with a good road to travel over with many superior advantages over the old trail.

This new route entered the Sacramento valley near the Lassen ranch, and as Lassen owned many cattle and horses, he was able to profit largely by his trade with the tired and famished immigrants.

He probably succeeded in profiting several thousand dollars by his trade with the poor immigrants, and it is currently reported that the immigrants have threatened his life, and that they have killed many of his cattle for food, without any remuneration to him.

A large number of immigrants are still behind, many of them with little or no subsistence, and had not the Californians sent out mules, horses, cattle and provisions, probably many of them would have perished with starvation.

The journey “across the plains” is a very hard experience, the hardships and privations of which cannot be realized by any one who has not undertaken it.

On the other hand, it presents much interesting scenery--the grand, the beautiful and the sublime. Lofty mountains and green, verdant valleys, majestic rivers and sandy, barren plains--all contribute, with much more, to make it a very interesting, and in a way, an enjoyable experience.

Nature may be seen in its wildest grandeur where civilization and art have neither added to its usefulness nor retrenched its beauty.

The full distance traveled from Independence, Mo., to the Sacramento River, at Lassen’s Ranch, as kept by me, is as follows:

In May, 73 miles; in June, 429 miles; in July, 436 miles; in August, 471 miles; in September, 523 miles; in October, 198 miles. This makes it 2,130 miles to Sacramento River. To Feather River, near Oroville, 2,178 miles.