Chapter V: Part 5

Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was
born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and
practiced law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of
Congress and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig
ticket, with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died
July 9, 1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of
office as his successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures,"
designed to pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law.
In 1852 he was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the
presidency at the Whig National Convention.

Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of
the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by
Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the
Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War
of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the
greatest orator of his race.

To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo State Hospital for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a cliff 60 ft. high, is the park known as "The Front," the site of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of U.S. Soldiers.

The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about 1,000 students and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry and pharmacy. Other educational institutions of Buffalo are the Canisius College, a Roman Catholic (Jesuit) institution for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo has several fine public buildings, including the Albright Art Gallery (white marble), the Buffalo Historical Society Building (in Delaware Park), the Public Library (valued at $1,000,000), and the City Hall and County Building ($1,500,000). Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission form of government.

Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city of Buffalo, by reason of its favorable location in respect to lake transportation and its position on the principal northern trade route between the East and the West, has become one of the important commercial and industrial centres in the Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and improved by extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, about 25 M. west of Buffalo, connects Lake Erie with the St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of the port of Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export trade is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives immense quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and has more than a score of huge grain elevators with a capacity of about 30,000,000 bushels.

In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: a supply of natural gas and almost unlimited electric power from Niagara Falls. Its total annual output is valued at approximately $400,000,000, and its manufactures include meat packing, foundry and machine shop products, flour, steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals, furniture, automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.

Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry and by the International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000.

Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago is best reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 miles distant, and travellers so easily can stop over to make the little side trip that it is virtually a part of the journey westward.

Niagara Falls.

Of the seven natural wonders of the American world, which are given as Yellowstone Park, Garden of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the Natural Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, by far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means "thunder of the waters," and was given by the early Indians who regarded the falls with a quite comprehensible religious awe. Today there are more than a million and a half visitors annually.

Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was Etienne Brul['e], an associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; but the first chronicler and the man to whom honour of discovery is usually given, is Father Hennepin, founder of the monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in 1678 joined La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful waters described in his _Louisiane Nouvelle_ (1698). The French built some trading posts here and their influence prevailed until 1759, when the British, driving the French northward overthrew their fortifications and took possession of the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, the Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla warfare, fought on the British side.

The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, 22 M. from its head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth in Lake Ontario, forms the outlet of four of the five Great Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and Superior). It descends about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M. from Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the last three quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends 55 ft. and the velocity is enormous. The basin of the Falls has a depth of from 100 to 192 ft. During cold winters the spray covers the grass and trees in the park along the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the Falls it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the left (Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, 155 ft. high and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American Fall, adjoining the right bank, is 162 ft. high and about 1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of their aesthetic value the province of Ontario and the State of New York have reserved the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous Goat Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western end gives a unique example of absolutely virgin forest.

The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot
and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with
iron. The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned
comrades on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which
they had never before attempted.

The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, then drops at the falls into a narrow gorge through which it courses seven miles to the escarpment, the crest of which is a bed of limestone--60 ft. thick at the falls. The water plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft shale, which, as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away. The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is lengthened at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident that the whole gorge has been dug out by the river, and many attempts have been made to determine the time consumed in the work. The solution of the problem would aid in establishing a relation between the periods and ages of geologic time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe Fall wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists have computed 25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible estimates of the river, but have been able to set no upper limit.

The Canadian and American shores are connected by three bridges, one of which a suspension carrying all classes of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long. The flow of water in the river averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second, though it sometimes falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.

On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the
rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and
the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was
due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to
its outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous
afternoon a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the
lake, and during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a
gale from the west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass
in the narrow channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when
the water on the lower side of the barrier drained off, the
Niagara River and the American Fall were dry, and the Canadian
Fall a mere trickle. This extraordinary condition lasted for a
whole day.

Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the Rapids just above them gives in theory a water-power of nearly 4,000,000 lip., three-fourths of which is estimated as available.

This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty of
the Falls--in fact diverting the river from its channel so that
the cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat
this commercial vandalism an association for the protection of
the Falls has been formed.

There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing plants, the largest of which was the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Company.

This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization of
the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing
about 200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1-1/4 M.
above the Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.

In 1918, when added power was needed for the more rapid production of war materials, the various companies consolidated with the Niagara Falls Power Company. In May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and the hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units--the largest in the world today--were installed, with the result that an extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making the total of the station 250,000 hp.

510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366. (Train 3 passes 8:23p; No. 41, 1:00a; No. 25, 12:45a; No. 19, 4:57a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 10:24p; No. 26, 11:26p; No. 16, 3:10a; No. 22, 6:08a.)

Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive lake trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing country. The property of the town, assessed at $10,000,000 is chiefly in factories producing locomotives, radiators and other steel and iron products, wagons, silk gloves, and concrete blocks. There are several pleasant parks, of which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton (519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers bound for Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on Chautauqua Lake), the principal seat of the Chautauqua educational movement.

The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago in the
west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or 20,000
people from all over the country assemble here to take courses in
a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp
Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the
middle-aged and elderly who in their youth were working too hard
to have had any opportunities for study.

Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into Pennsylvania.

557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372. (Train 3 passes 9:30p; No. 41, 2:06a; No. 25, 1:36a; No. 19, 5:59a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 9:25p; No. 26, 10:30p; No. 16, 2:03a; No. 22, 5:08a.)

Erie stands on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in 1753 and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. Although Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of Va. against the French occupation of this territory, it remained in French hands until 1758 when an epidemic of small-pox broke out, making the fort untenable. Two years later the British seized it, and three years after the Indians, rising against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept it until 1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. Gen. Anthony Wayne, who was given the task of occupying the lake posts delivered up by the English, came here soon after to negotiate the famous treaty of Greenville with the Indians in 1795. He died in 1796 at Erie.

(From a Painting by Dr. Thomas B. Stuart)

Certain hostile tribes in northwest of Ohio who had defeated Gen.
St. Clair in 1791, sent away in scorn a mission asking permission
for white men to settle beyond the Ohio (1793). Wayne, angry at
this insolence, gathered together some troops of the recently
organized American army and after having given the Indians one
more chance of a peaceable settlement, defeated them thoroughly
in the battle of Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By
the resulting treaty of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to
civilization.]

In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted out to the Indians by the new government through the agency of Wayne, no part of Washington's administration, domestic or foreign, was more original or more benign than the policy he constantly urged toward them. To save them from the frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted, and a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions of borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights allowed them in their treaties.

The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated with the city. Here were Perry's headquarters during the War of 1812, and here he built in less than six months many of the vessels with which he won his naval victory over the British.

Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products of which are valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. A large branch of the General Electric Co. is here, besides important factories for flour and grist mill products, paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The leading articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. Over 1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked harbour. On a bluff overlooking lake and city, is the State Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, and nearby, a monument to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.) and Conneaut we cross the state line into Ohio.

584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000. (Train 3 passes 10:08p; No. 41, 2:39a; No. 25, 2:04a; No. 19, 6:34a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:50p; No. 26, 9:59p; No. 16, 1:20a; No. 22, 4:32a.)

The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though a preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two of whom were women, had arrived in 1796 and found 20 or 30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.

In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival
here, "on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4,
1796. "We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the
place Ft. Independence, and, after many difficulties,
perplexities and hardships were surmounted and we were on the
good and promised land, felt that a just tribute of respect to
the day ought to be paid. There were in all, including women and
children, 50 in number. The men under Capt. Tinker, ranged
themselves on the beach and fired a Federal Salute of 15 rounds,
and then the 16th in honor of New Conn. Drank several toasts.
Closed with three cheers. Drank several pints of grog. Supped and
returned in good order."

After the whites had established themselves, the Indians were driven out for having murdered a settler. The country of Ashtabula in which Conneaut stands was not only the first settled on the Western Reserve, but the first in Northern Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the "Plymouth" of the Western Reserve.

Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many fish," is built at the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now a thriving agricultural and dairying region on Lake Erie. Besides being an excellent harbour to which coal and ore are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills, tanneries, canneries, and other factories.

595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082. (Train 3 passes 10:29p; No. 41, 3:06a; No. 25, 2:19a; No. 19, 6:50a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:34p; No. 26, 9:44p; No. 16, 1:00a; No. 22, 4:16a.)

Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula (an Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by the excellent harbour here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula River. The city is built on the high bank of the river about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some fine views. There are large green-houses under glass from which forced fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other large cities. It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural and dairying region which has been largely settled by Finns.

Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America for the shipment of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, is brought here in enormous quantities by boat and trans-shipped to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and drydocks in the harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and unloading ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, foundry and machine shop products; and the total value of its output is close to $10,000,000 annually.

602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081. (Train 3 passes, 10:42p; No. 41, 3:18a; No. 25, 2:29a; No. 19, 7:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:22p; No. 26, 9:32p; No. 16, 12:39a; No. 22, 4:02a.)

Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.

In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an
expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up
arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming
and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian
"council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were
driven westward, never to recover their old power.

In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. According to Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller who wrote an account of a journey in 1792, the town then consisted "of about 20 log houses, three or four frame buildings, and as many idle persons as can live in them." Some of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded 1822, is situated here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, etc., are manufactured, and there are also extensive nurseries.

622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272. (Train 3 passes, 11:06p; No. 41, 3:40a; No. 25, 2:46a; No. 19, 7:27a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:05p; No. 26, 9:16p; No. 16, 12:18a; No. 22, 3:43a.)

Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and N.Y., the chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), an ex-officer of the Continental Army. It contains one of the early women's colleges of the country--Lake Erie College, founded in 1859 as the successor to Willoughby Seminary at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were burned in 1846.

The history of this part of the State includes early episodes of Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book by E.D. Howe purporting to show that "the historical p(art?) of the book of Mormon" was plagiarized from a romance called _The Manuscript Found_ written by Solomon Spalding of Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully verified by later research.

Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) of the early settlements made by Joseph Smith and his Mormon followers. They built here a $40,000 temple (still standing), a teacher's seminary and a bank. The bank failed and Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff. Most of his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which we now pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, who later became one of the Mormon leaders.

Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, then
helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and
before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in
Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new
translation of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming
of Joseph Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young,
he moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and
establishing an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in
Missouri where the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon
preached his "salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his
hearer to wage a "war of extermination" against all who disturbed
them. Following his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in
such broils with the "gentiles" that the state militia was called
out against them. Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former
escaped custody and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When
the latter was freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of
Nauvoo which they had founded and was made a professor at their
university. After Smith's arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and
the breaking up of Nauvoo, Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's
place. Not only failing to secure it, but being in addition tried
for treason in wanting it, the disciple of Mormon returned to the
East and spent his last days at Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the
book mentioned above, asserted that Sidney Rigdon was the
original "author and proprietor of the Mormon conspiracy."

Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of James A. Garfield.

James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., was
born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm
hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic
Institute, afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams
College from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient
languages and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he
was elected to the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was
striking, and he was made major-general for gallantry at the
battle of Chickamauga. He was elected to Congress in 1863, where
he attracted attention as a hard worker and ready speaker, and
where later he became leader of the Republican party in the
House. He was an advocate of drastic measures against the South
and considered Lincoln's policies too lenient. At the
presidential convention of the Republican Party in 1880, he was
nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise candidate, and in
the same year was elected president. On the 2d of July, 1881,
while on his way to attend commencement exercises at Williams
College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a disappointed office
seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad Station. He
died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.

CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO

623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836. (Train 3 passes 11:55p; No. 41, 4:35a; No. 25,3:30a; No. 19, 8:20a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:20p; No. 26, 8:35p; No. 16, 11:30p; No. 22, 2:56a.)

A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland as early as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, leader of a small band of pioneers and agent of the Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the ground and planted the nucleus of the present thriving city--now fifth in size in the country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut into the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New York Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then from Buffalo along the shore of Lake Erie.

At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part of the famous Western Reserve territory, consisting of 3,250,000 acres of land, certain parts of which Connecticut ceded to her citizens as compensation for their losses from "fire and damage" at the hands of the British during the Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as "Fire Lands."

The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately west
of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom 120 M.
Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself in
1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights and
claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the
Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the
Conn. Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition
of all the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until
after 1815 no lands west of that river were open to entrance or
survey, and settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was
the Indian Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the
aborigines had exclusive right of occupancy.

It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these lands that Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into the Western Reserve. The first of these expeditions (1795) was composed of 50 men, women and children who arrived at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie, July 4, 1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site of Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River.

To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the new
settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default of
anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of
settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins,
someone espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The
coming of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the
congregation suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and
then returned to their devotions.

Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were ambitious, and he built a number of substantial roads through the forests, usually following the old Indian trails, now the right of way of the New York Central and other lines. With the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio River (1832), Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for Ohio's extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery and commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large deposits of iron ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland in a strategic position between these vast ore fields and the coal and oil resources of Ohio, Pa., and W. Va., and it is from this time that the city's great commercial importance really dates.

Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was born at Canterbury, Conn., and
graduated from Yale. After serving in the U.S. Army, where he
attained the rank of captain, he practiced law and entered the
Connecticut legislature. Later, he organized the Connecticut Land
Co., which in 1795 purchased a large portion of the Western
Reserve.]

In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The name, though chosen in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been abbreviated to its present form some years before. Tradition credits the changed form to a newspaper which left out the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.

The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, and the stimulus to industry during the Civil War, when Cleveland supplied large quantities of iron products and clothing to the government, gave impetus to the city's growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071 in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more than double its population in 1860). Thirty years later (1900) the population had grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent over 1910.

The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished for some notable experiments in city planning, popular education and municipal ownership (particularly with respect to street railways). The street railway situation had been a source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of serious proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which were blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was first elected mayor, and, largely as a result of his advocacy, municipal ownership became a greater issue in Cleveland than in any other great city in the country.

Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who entered
politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, and
in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in street
railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate
of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4
successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to
Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in
getting an entire book--Henry George's _Progress and
Poverty_--printed in the Congressional Record.

Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the street railways and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. The private owners were compelled in 1908 to lease their property to a municipal holding company, but in 1910 (after Johnson's defeat for re-election in the preceding year), the street railway system was leased to a new corporation, the rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on an adequate return to the investors.

Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became famous in national Republican politics.

Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed with
his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from Western
Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with his
father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business.
Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but it
was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in
Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National
Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the
campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be
acknowledged as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource.
He entered the U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the
principal advisers of the McKinley administration. He took a
vital interest in problems affecting labor and capital and was
one of the organizers in 1901 and first president of the National
Civic Federation. He died in 1904 at Washington.

The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in the betterment of local politics. It was also instrumental in 1902 in securing the adoption of the "Group Plan" by which some of the principal public buildings are arranged in a quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake Erie. Cleveland appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one side of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and city hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the post office and library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall 600 ft. wide, with public buildings on either side, connecting the court-house and city hall with the post office and library. The granite buildings forming this quadrangle were designed under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John M. Carrere and D.H. Burnham.

In education the city has made an innovation known as the "Cleveland plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, red tape and frequent examinations. Great stress is put on domestic and manual training courses, and promotion in the grammar schools is made dependent on the general knowledge and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. There are in Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public libraries. The principal institutions of higher education are the Western Reserve University with 2,800 students, St. Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case School of Applied Science.

With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park system (1,500 acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded by maples and elms, Cleveland possesses many aspects of unusual beauty. The city is situated on bluffs rising from 74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands pleasant views of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which here pursues a meandering course through a valley half a mile wide. Other streams, notably Dean Brook on the east border, add to the picturesque character of the municipal setting. A chain of parks* connected by driveways follows the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which, on the lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in 1893; from this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller Park, given to the city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller and others. It adjoins Wade Park, where are a zoological garden and a lake.

"By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopaedia
Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some
people have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these
[the vehicle to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and
the forewheels, which act as a rudder, are guided by the person
who sits in the carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box,
in which is concealed the machinery that moves the carriage. A
machine of this kind will afford a salutary recreation in a garden
or park, or on any plain ground; but in a rough or deep road must
be attended with more pain than pleasure.... Another contrivance
for being carried without draught, is by means of a sailing
chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the figure to the
right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D and
guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to
be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from
Scheveling to Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two
hours." The figure in the centre represents a modified sailing
vehicle designed to sail against the wind as well as with it.]

Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 acres), on an elevated site on the east border of the city is the most noteworthy; here are buried President Garfield (the Garfield memorial is a sandstone tower 165 ft. high with a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and John Hay.

John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate
of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham
Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield,
Ill., became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until
the president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S.
Legations abroad--Paris, Vienna, Madrid--and on returning to
America became assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts.
President McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in
1897, and the following year Secretary of State. Hay was
prominent in many important international negotiations, such as
the treaty with Spain (1898), the "open door" in China, and the
Russo-Japanese peace settlement. He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote
treaty concerning the Panama Canal; also settled difficulties
with Germany over the Samoan question and with Great Britain over
the Alaskan boundary. As an author, Hay is best known for his
_Pike County Ballads_, in which _Little Breeches_ first appeared,
and for the monumental life of Lincoln written by Nicolay and himself.

Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of Senator Hanna by Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a marble statue of Commodore Perry in commemoration of the battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers' and sailors' monument--a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to a height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the Public Square). This latter monument is said to stand on the very spot selected by Cleaveland for the centre of his new settlement.

The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business centre of the city, about 1/2 M. from the lake and the same distance east of the Cuyahoga River. From this park the principal thoroughfares radiate. Euclid Ave., once famous for its private residences, but now the chief retail street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square. Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the eastern part of the city.

Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of America." Its prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility to oil, coal and iron. It is the largest ore market in the world. Forty million tons of iron ore valued at $125,000,000 are received annually in the Cleveland district, and the ore docks where much of this ore is handled, are of great interest. Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade in coal and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest in the world, receive enormous quantities of crude oil by pipe line, rail and water.

The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 workers, producing annually goods worth about $375,000,000, of which $100,000,000 represents the products of its foundries and machine shops. Cleveland is the first city in America in the making of wire products and automobile parts, second in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles. Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) is likewise an important industry, and Cleveland controls the larger share of the tonnage on the Great Lakes.

Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to
whites and blacks, and to give education to women as well as to
men." Other objects were "to establish universal liberty by the
abolition of every form of sin" and "to avoid the debasing
association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text
book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin
are strongly religious, and from Charles Grandison Finney,
revivalist and president of the college from 1851 to 1866, sprang
what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of free-will
and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on
the "underground railway," and the influence of the college made
it a centre of extreme abolitionist sentiment.]

673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474. (Train 3 passes 12:52a; No. 41, 5:27a; No. 25, 4:07a; No. 19, 9:12a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 6:22p; No. 26, 7:57p; No. 16, 10:34p; No. 22, 2:04a.)

Elyria was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it was named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a cabin on the site of the present town, and later erected the first frame house in the township. The city lies at the junction of the two forks of the Black River, each of which falls about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable water-power. There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief manufactures of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and iron pipe; the annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. Eight miles to the southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat of Oberlin College.

704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897. (Train 3 passes 1:35a; No. 41, 6:12a; No. 25, 4:44a; No. 19, 9:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:38p; No. 26, 7:13p; No. 16, 9:45p; No. 22, 1:16a.)

English traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky is situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been erected for protection against the French and Indians. On May 16th of that year, during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot Indians burned the fort. A permanent settlement was established in 1817.

At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with a beach for bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. Outside Sandusky Bay are a number of islands, most of which belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point Pelee, is British. At the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island, where many Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War. There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations for 1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several fishing resorts, among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island), where the government maintains a fish hatchery. Out of this bay Oliver Hazard Perry and his fleet sailed on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the battle of Lake Erie.

Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain
during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates,
Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the
War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon
transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong
detachment of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he
equipped a squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In
July 1813 he concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle
(now Erie). In Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South
Bass Island.

On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay
off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay,
after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence,"
was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was
completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore
Roosevelt "was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy]
yet at a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our
antagonist. With such odds in our favor, it would have been a
disgrace to have been beaten. The chief merit of the American
Commander and his followers were indomitable courage and
determination not to be beaten. This is no slight merit; but it
may well be doubted if it would have insured victory had
Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... It must always be
remembered that when Perry fought this battle he was but 27 years
old; and the commanders of his other vessels were younger still."
Another distinction which Perry won on this occasion is that he
enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. Harrison to announce
his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, and they are ours."

Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition of
1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.

Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved by government works and its trade in coal, lumber, stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and grape juice is extensive. Its manufactures include tools, iron and steel products, chemicals, paper, agricultural implements, lumber products, gasoline engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value annually of some $20,000,000.

Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take
some more Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse
that Perry! One disaster after another. I have not half recovered
of the Bloody Nose I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the
day the verse occurs:

"On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,
With Charlotte making merry,
He chanced to take the belly-ache,
We drenched him so with Perry."

"Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. The
"boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" by the
American schooner "Enterprise."]

757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109. (Train 3 passes 2:45a; No. 41, 7:25a; No. 25, 5:45a; No. 19, 11:05a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:35p; No. 26, 5:15p; No. 16, 7:30p; No. 22, 11:08p.)[2]

[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; while eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]

Toledo was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It lies within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations bought by the U.S. government from several Indian tribes in 1795. Upon that part of the tract farthest upstream the town of Port Lawrence was laid out in 1807. In 1832 a rival company laid out the town of Vistula immediately below and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.

This district was the storm-centre for the more or less ridiculous episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute over the boundary line between Ohio and Michigan. This boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817) after its surveyor, left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide, a rich agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of Ohio, by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three commissioners out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include the bone of contention. When Gov. Mason, appointed by President Jackson as administrator of the territory of Michigan heard about this, he dispatched a division of militia to occupy Toledo.

Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the
chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's
house, and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after
demolishing his ice house.

Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who occupied a post at Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No fighting took place in this most genteel of wars, although there were several arrests and much confusion.

A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to Toledo
gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various jokers
had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting
Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this
amateur legion that nearly one half of those who had marched
boldly from Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to
withdraw from such a dangerous enterprise.

President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting Michigan to stop interfering with the re-marking of the boundary line, but slight outbreaks continued until he presently removed Gov. Mason from office, and until Congress in 1836 decided in favor of Ohio.

The city administration became famous for its efficient honesty after 1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) a manufacturer of oil machinery, was elected mayor by the Republican party. The Independent movement which he began was carried on by Brand Whitlock.

Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?),
1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city
government. His integrity in business and politics gained him the
nickname "Golden Rule Jones."

Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began his
career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead.
After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted
(to?) the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was
elected mayor of that city as an Independent, running against
four other candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911
under similar conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as
minister to Belgium where he made a distinguished record during
the War. In 1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His
_Memoires of Belgium under the German Occupation_, published in
1918, gives an excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual
operation.

The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected by a boulevard 18 M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), which include Toledo Medical College, was founded in 1880.

The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always been recognized, and its growth has been rapid. It is situated about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and is connected with it by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft. deep--sufficient to admit the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M. of docks. Toledo is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and lumber of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum, coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories for motor-cars, plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, also lumber and planing-mills, flour and grist mills, etc., with products of an annual value of $200,000,000 or more. At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.

880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525. (Train 3 passes 4:4(9?); No. 41, 9:45a; No. 25, 2:07a; No. 19, 12:52p. Eastbound; No. 6 passes 1:06p; No. 26, 2:59p; No. 16, 4:28p; No. 22, 8:32p.)

Situated on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about 1828 by pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen College, the only Mennonite institution of higher education in the U.S. The college was founded as Elkhart Institute in Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to Goshen in 1903.

The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the
teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of
Holland, 1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that
true Christianity can recognize no authority outside of the Bible
and an enlightened conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in
Holland, France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The
American Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and
Prussia. The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa.
(first settled 1683).

There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high school building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural and lumber market. Its manufactures include flour, lumber goods, ladders, iron, wagons, steel tanks, underwear, machinery, furniture and farm implements.

900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277. (Train 3 passes 5:00a; No. 41, 10:05a; No. 25, 7:21a; No. 19, 1:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes at 12:50p; No. 26, 2:45p; No. 16, 4:10p; No. 22, 8:15p.)

Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), is so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near the centre of the city, formed by the junction of the two rivers, the St. Joe and the Elkhart, which make many turns and windings here. There are several parks, in one of which, McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held annually.

Ren['e] Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, was born at Rouen,
France, and began his explorations from Montreal in 1669.
Discovering the Ohio River, he travelled down possibly as far as
(its?) junction with the Mississippi and then returned. The winter
of 1679 La Salle passed at a post above Niagra Falls, where he
built his famous (ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed the
Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, (and?) which he sent back laden with
(furs?) in the hope of satisfying the loans of his creditors,
while he himself proceeded westward. In 1682, (after?) many
adventures, he floated down (to?) the mouth of the Mississippi,
where he erected a monument and cross, took possession of the
region in the name of Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. When he
returned there two years (later?) with four vessels he mistook the
waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present state of Texas, for the
mouth of a branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly
wandering through the wilderness in search of the Mississippi
River, the Illinois country and Canada, he was killed by his
followers in March, 1687.]

Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, telephone supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other products are included among its manufactures, which have an annual value of more than $15,000,000. Two Mennonite papers are published here.

915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983. (Train 3 passes 5:30a; No. 41, 10:38a; No. 25, 7:45a; No. 19, 1:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 12:20p; No. 26, 2:22p; No. 16, 3:32p; No. 22, 7:45p.)

South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north of the city is the portage between the St. Joseph and the Kankakee Rivers, by means of which P[`e]re Marquette in 1675 and La Salle in 1679 made their way into what is now the state of Illinois.

This portage was part of the long land and water highway by which
the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper from the
Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South America.

As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake
Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the
mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the
commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are
also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and
Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was
mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve no
tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous
excavations in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the
courses of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels,
spears, arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of
withes, wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden
shovels, ladders, and levers for raising and supporting masses of
copper. The high antiquity of this mining is inferred from these
facts: that the trenches and pits were filled level with the
surrounding surface so that their existence was not suspected;
that on the piles of rubbish were found growing trees of great
age, such as hemlock trees having annual rings showing that they
began before the coming of Columbus. Copper wrought into utensils
is found in the mounds all the way from Wisconsin to the Gulf
Coast, and the supply is too abundant to authorize the
supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. So expert
were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine they
lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame of
wood 5 ft. high.

Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, France, and as a Jesuit priest
went to Canada in 1666, where he was chosen to explore the
Mississippi River with Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in 1673,
the French having begun to gain knowledge of the prairies from the
Indians. Following a route through Green Bay and up the Fox River
to a point where they made a portage to the Wisconsin, Marquette
and Joliet finally reached the Mississippi. On their return to
Michigan, Marquette fell ill, and his attempt in the following
year to found a mission among the Indians of the Illinois River
proved too much for his broken strength. On the way home he died
beside a little stream which enters Marquette Bay on Lake
Michigan.]