Chapter XIV: On Gun Stocks

_Form of Gun Stocks._—When a customer orders a stock to be made, or has a gun to be re-stocked, the gunsmith will observe the length of his customer’s arms, length of neck, his height and general carriage. From these he can gather some data as to the length and form of stock to be made. Give him a gun, and observe his mode of raising it and taking aim, and the manner of his holding his head while aiming, and deductions may be drawn as to what the customer requires.

A tall, long-limbed and long-armed man requires a longer stock than a shorter person, and a straight stock will better answer for a short-necked, high-shouldered man than for a long-necked, low-shouldered person. A straight stock is much more suitable for a short-necked, high-shouldered person than a bent one, and for this reason, that, in fast shooting the point of sight at the end of the gun would come up to the range of the eye before the butt could be placed full against the shoulder, and one consequence would be, when fired, a severe recoil of the gun at every discharge. A stock rather long is much better than one too short, and one rather crooked to one that is too straight. If a gun be not held on a perfect level, but the muzzle higher than the breech, the load will be carried over the object aimed at, supposing that object to be on a level with the eye. Let a customer take a gun, such as would be thought to be best suited to his “build,” and request him to close both eyes and raise the gun to a level, as if to shoot thus. Have him hold the gun immovable thus, and then request him to open his eyes, and it is evident if he requires a stock to be made different from the one he has in hand. If the face comes naturally to the breech and the eye has a “fine sight” along the barrel, it is just the pattern of gun stock for him to have. If it be too straight he will shoot over, if too much crooked he will shoot under. In the first instance the muzzle is brought too high by an effort of the face to find a position at the breech, and in the other case it so readily finds a place that no further effort is made, except by practice, to raise the muzzle to the proper level.

A tall, slim person requires a gun with a long, crooked stock, and rather heavier and made fuller behind the small, as this will fill up his want of a full face, and will better permit his eye a command of sight along the middle of the barrels, supposing the gun to be a double one. For a short individual a short, straight stock is required, and it should be made thinner behind the small, so as to easily permit access to the line of sight. If a person be in the habit of firing too low and behind a bird, if the stock be made a little straighter it will prove a remedy for the fault.

That part of the stock where the cheek comes to rest should be full, as it gives more support to the line of fire. The heel of the stock should be in a straight line with the upper rib between the barrels. If a single gun, on a line with the barrel. The length of stock from the centre of front trigger to centre of butt-plate, from thirteen to fifteen and a half inches; a short person requiring the less measurement, while a very tall one might require the longest one.

The cut, Fig. 23, gives a better idea of what the stock should be. Place a rule or straight-edge upon the rib of the gun, and long enough to reach from the sight of the gun over and beyond the butt. Be particular that the straight-edge lies along the rib and touches it at both muzzle and breech. The measurement from _a_ to _b_ on the butt is what is termed the “drop,” and this may be from two and a half to four inches, according to the requirements of the shooter. The cheek of the sportsman comes between _c_ and _d_, and almost always touches the stock at this place when bending his head forward over the stock of his gun to take the line of sight. This part of the gun should command particular attention.

Another point of considerable importance to observe is, that a due regard be paid to the proper fall of equipoise or centre of gravity of the gun when stocked and ready for use. This centre of gravity should fall at a point about two feet two inches, or perhaps an inch more, from the heel of the butt. In this case the arm is easier to handle and easier to carry. If the breech be too light, lead may be inserted to advantage in the butt, the butt-plate being removed for that purpose.

_Dimensions for Single Gun._—The following may be considered very good dimensions for a single gun stock: Whole length of stock, from butt to cap, two feet two inches; length or depth of butt, five and a half inches, with a trifling concave surface; width of stock at butt, two inches; from point of centre of the lock-tumbler to cap, eleven inches; width of stock before the guard, one inch and three-eighths, and made nearly square.

_Dimensions for Double Gun._—For a double gun: Length of stock, from butt to cap, two feet one inch; length or depth of butt, five and a half inches, with a slightly concave surface two inches in width; from centre of lock-tumbler to cap, ten and one-quarter inches; width of stock before guard, one inch and three-quarters, and made nearly square.

_Laying out Gun Stocks._—Several patterns each, of double and single, and rifle stocks are necessary. These patterns may be made of thin wood or thick straw-board. These patterns ought to be a little larger than the finished stock, and are intended only for a proximate measurement of the stock when to be sawed from the rough wood. Select the wood, lay the pattern upon it, mark around with a pencil or crayon, and then saw out by the lines made.

With a plane, smooth one side of the wood so as to show the grain and the direction in which it runs. This must govern the position of laying the pattern. The weakest portion of the stock is the small, and there it is almost a necessity that the grain should not run across the line of the stock, but with it. If a very little divergence be made, it may not matter, provided the wood be of a hard and close grain. If the grain run across, or at an angle at this weakest spot, a slight blow or accidental fall is liable to cause a breakage which can best be repaired with a new stock. If the wood be in some places mottled, with curled or twisted grain, or has a knot that is hard and sound, let this spot come in the center of the butt, for by its width and thickness no accident is liable to break it, and the rounded form gives opportunity to show off the irregular grain to good advantage. Let the wood where the butt plate is attached be of straight and regular grain if possible. The grain where the locks are let in, and also where the barrel is let in, should be straight and run in the same line as the barrel.

The planks or rough pieces for double gun stocks should be about two and a quarter inches thick before they are reduced. Two inches for a single gun, and about one and three-quarter inches, or a little thicker, for rifles, depending on their weight and the taste of the customer.

It is best to have a number of stocks roughed out. Maple for rifles and black-walnut for single and double guns. Let them lay in a dry place to thoroughly season, and if they remain in this manner for several years, they are all the better for it. It is claimed that it takes seven years for a plank to season, and even then when sawed into stocks, they will be observed to shrink and change form, and often small cracks will appear.

Unhesitatingly reject all pieces that are unsound, or have any appearance of being brash, or with any signs of decay. Often in laying the patterns upon the wood these places can be readily avoided, and thrown away as the plank is cut up. Draw a straight line where the barrels will come, and cut to this line, but be sure to leave plenty of wood where the breech of the barrels rest, and where the break-off is set in. When the stock is roughed out, this spot will have the appearance of a rise or swell with a sharp curve in front, down on to the line which is just below the centre of the line of the barrels for double guns, and on the centre for single guns and rifles. Except in the case of some who may fancy the old Kentucky rifle, all guns will probably be made with half-stock. It would be hardly advisable to keep only a very limited stock of full length stocks on hand. If such are to be roughed out, pay particular attention to have the grain of the wood as straight as possible the full length where the barrel is to be let in.

_How to Stock a Gun._—Stocking a gun is the most difficult portion of the gunsmith’s trade. The change from iron work to the manipulation of wood is so great that many workmen refuse to work at both branches of the business. Then again, if the stock be not well done and the parts well fitted, they show a greater per cent. worse than perhaps they really are. The letting in of the barrel and locks should be done with care and nicety, and no apparent openings between wood and metal should be visible. The parts should be closely adherent to the wood, yet easy to be removed and returned to place. Where straight lines of the wood work are required, as along the line of the barrels and other places, let the lines _be straight_. Where the convex lines of the breech and butt occur, let the lines be graceful and of even proportions.

_The First Operation._—After receiving the rough formed stock, as roughed out for seasoning, the first thing to do is to plane it to a thickness, and there are two places to measure for this thickness. One is the thickness of the butt, which in double guns may be two inches, and the same width in heavy single guns, and a trifle lighter if it be a light gun. The other place for measurement is across where the locks are to be let in. Observe how the locks are to rest, against the break-off or against the barrels. Note this measurement and add the thickness of the locks. This may be an inch and three-eighths to an inch and a half for single guns, and an inch and five-eighths to an inch and three-quarters for double guns, yet as the formation of the breech and style of locks differ so will these measurements vary from the measurements given. When these measurements are made, and the stock reduced to the proper width, draw a line both on the upper side of the stock as well as the under side, exactly between the breech and lock measurements, and continue this line from the end of the butt to the end of the fore-stock. Cut down to a straight line the stock where the barrels are to be let in, and fit in the break-off. Take pains to fit it well, for on the fitting of this in a great measure depends the life of the stock. If the barrels be loose fitted, each recoil of the gun on firing tends to loosen the break-off from the barrels, and the joint soon becomes open and shackling.

When this part is snugly fitted and the strap let in, put in temporary screws to hold it for a season. Cut out the groove for the barrels, keeping in mind all the time that the central line between the barrels must be on the line as drawn on the centre of the stock. If a single gun, this line must pass directly through the axial line of the bore.

_Letting in Barrels._—When it is thought that wood enough has been removed to admit the barrels, rub oil on them on the under side where they come in contact with the stock, put the hooks in the break-off, and with the hand press the barrels to place—the oil will show on the wood, on removing them, and then, with gouge or float, remove this portion and again put the barrels in place, observing the oil marks, and reduce the wood again until the barrels lie in their beds evenly and solidly, and the joining at the break-off is in place, square and true. The heel of the stock should come in a straight line with the middle of the rib, and will come so, if observance of the lines first drawn has been made.

_Measure for the Stock._—Now measure for the drop of the stock, which is illustrated in Fig. 23. From the line _a_ to _b_, which is a continuation of a line along the top of the barrels, may be, for instance about three inches. Cut the stock away on top to this measurement, and fit on the butt plate. To get the length of the breech, measure from the spot where the end of the front trigger will come, and this measurement extended, straight back to the centre of the butt, gives the length. For a person with long arms about fifteen and a half inches is enough; about fourteen and a half for a person with ordinary length of arm, and thirteen and a half or thirteen and three-quarters for a person with short arms.

_The Butt._—The depth of the butt for a double or single may be about five and a half inches, but for a light single gun a little less but not very much.

_Letting in the Locks._—The locks should now be let in their proper places, and, while so doing, have great care that no more wood be removed than is necessary. See that the lock-plates have all the support possible where they fit into the wood. Cut out enough for full play of the mainspring and sear-berg spring carefully, do not remove wood where the edges of the lock-plate come, so as to leave open spaces for admission of water, dust or moisture. In letting in the locks the portions of wood to be removed can be ascertained by touching the prominent parts of the lock with oil, or holding the lock over a smoky lamp, so as to have soot adhere, then observe where it touches, on pressing the locks into place. Observe if the cup of the hammer comes squarely on the nipple, and put in the side bolts as they are to remain.

_Letting in the Trigger-Plate._—Let the trigger-plate into the stock so that the arm of the sear bears wholly on the thick of the trigger, and not on the outer end. For this reason, if it engages the outer end, on being pulled to disengage the nose of the sear from the tumbler notch, it produces a sort of “twisted leverage” which does not work quick and strong enough to properly disengage the sear without some effort on account of this. If the arm of the sear bears only in part on the thick of the trigger, it works hard and stiff, and the parts soon wear each other. Observe if the arm of the sear be not too short, for it might happen that the trigger will slip off at the end upon a quick pressure being applied, leaving the parts disengaged and the hammer standing at full-cock.

_Letting in the Trigger._—The trigger should be so disposed in the plate that a distance of an inch and about three-eighths exist between the right trigger and the front of the trigger guard, and an inch and three-sixteenths or more between the two triggers, and a sufficient space between the rear of the left trigger and the guard behind it to admit of free movement of the trigger. Observe if the triggers do not come too close to each other; if they do they may so rub upon each other that the action of one will compel the other to follow its motion, and the result will be a descent of both hammers at the same time.

Observe if the curves of the two triggers are at sufficient distance from each other so that the left barrel can be fired without the projecting and inner edge of the right or first trigger hurting the finger that pulls the trigger.

_Secure Fastenings._—For a secure fastening of the break-off, and, at the same time, to bind the stock together and prevent splitting through where the locks are let in, insert a screw through the tang of the strap and have it received in the front end of the trigger-plate. Have a good thread where the screw goes into the trigger-plate, and have the plate firmly drawn to its bed in the wood. Fit the guard, observing the measurements for space in front and rear of the triggers.

_Fitting Bolt-Loops._—To ascertain the position of the loop where the bolt or wire goes through to hold the barrel in place, insert a fine steel needle through the wood until it strikes the hole, and then enlarge around it to accommodate the hole and the loop. If for a bolt, a slender tool made like a saw will enlarge the hole in the wood, letting the tool follow in the loop and act as a guide to shape the hole. The finishing of the hole in the wood may be done with a bolt float, shown in Fig. 24.

_Hints for Finishing._—In finishing up the stock have the part where the cheek rests in firing made pretty full. Make it rather long than short, and have it more straight than curved. The length of a stock, be it double or single gun, from butt to front end of stock, may be from about two feet to two feet two inches; from the centre of the hammer-screw to front end of the stock, from ten to eleven inches.

_Fitting the Break-off._—On good fitting of the break-off depends, in a great measure, the lasting quality of the gun. If this be not properly fitted to the hooks of the breech, to the breech itself, and into the stock, the gun is soon “kicked” to pieces by its own recoil. The extension of the break-off that is let into the stock toward the breech is called tang, strap or tail, and these are of two lengths, called the long and the short. These lengths usually correspond with the lengths of breech pins. The smallest diameter of break-off is one inch, and increases by eighths of an inch up to two inches.

_To let in Escutcheons, etc._—Do not fit in an escutcheon until that part of the stock is finished or made to form. Then, after the bolt is fitted to its place through the loop, remove the bolt, make the hole in the escutcheon so that the bolt slides easily through it. Hold the escutcheons on the stock in the place they are to occupy and put the bolt through them. Mark around them with the sharp point of a knife and remove them. Cut out the wood of a depth to correspond with the thickness of the escutcheon with a bottoming tool. Put them in place and fasten them. They can now be finished down with a file even with the stock.

It is well to have escutcheons with the ends long enough to admit of small screws being inserted to hold them. They are more permanent than those that are held by a wire-like extension that goes through the wood and is clinched a little. By using the screws the workman can make his own escutcheons. Sheet iron, brass or German silver may be used. The slot can be cut with a punch or drift, and finished with a thin, flat file. The handles of old German silver spoons make very good escutcheons. If too thick, hammer out thinner. Heat them to soften so that they will not crack in hammering.

In putting escutcheons to place where they are to remain, heat them quite warm, smear with gum shellac and, while soft and melted, press into place. If done expertly, a neat job will be the result.

_How to Cast Tips on Fore-end of Stock._—Tips are cast on the fore-end of half-stocked single guns and rifles for the purpose of preventing the stock from splitting, and, at the same time, give it a finished appearance. After the stock is finished to shape and the rod fitted, put the barrel in place, and put a short piece of wood in the rod groove, the same as the rod would be if put there. Let the piece project from the wood four or five inches. It serves a double purpose, preventing the metal from flowing into the hole and making a hole to receive the rod. Now, wind thick, smooth paper—manilla paper is best—around the stock and barrel where the tip is to be cast, confining it with a cord, taking care to have all tight so that no portion of the metal will escape. See that the space between the paper and wood is left large enough, so that the metal can be dressed down a little; little notches may be cut in the wood to have it hold the better.

Fix the gun so as to stand upright, so that the metal will pour evenly. Heat the metal pretty hot and pour carefully into the paper, and pour in more than is wanted for the length of the tip, as the dross will float to the top and can be removed when cold by sawing off a little of the tip. File up and finish to suit the taste.

The best metal for tips is pure block tin, as it remains white. If it be wished to make it a little harder, add a very little antimony, but this is hardly necessary. Old type, when melted, make a very good material for tips when pure tin cannot be obtained. Tin has the advantage of always retaining a clear white color, which when alloyed with lead, it will not do.

_Chequering._—To lay out the work preparatory for chequering, take a piece of card—a firm pasteboard, cut it to the shape of the spot to be chequered; mark around it with a lead pencil. If it be the small of a gun stock, place it at the other side from that first marked and mark that place. See that both places are marked alike. Then place the paper on, so that when it is used as a guide the tool will cut a groove where the line was drawn. Cut outlines in the same manner, the paper serving as a guide for the tool. After one groove is cut, this is a guide for grooving the space inclosed by the outlines.

To finish the cuts or grooves, fold a short piece of fine sand-paper and run the folded edge along the cuts. Be careful not to cut down too much with the sand-paper. A fine-cut, three-square file can be used to finish up the grooves made by the chequering-tool. Be careful to select a file that has very sharp corners. If one of the flat surfaces of the file be ground smooth, the teeth on the corners will be found to be very sharp, and will answer first-rate for finishing. The same may be used for finishing the shading or outside lines around the chequered surface.

_Coloring Gun Stocks._—Gun stocks are colored with linseed oil in which alkanet root has been placed. The oil will then be of a bright red color. The oil may be applied cold or warm, as most convenient. After the application let the stock stand for a day or two until the wood has absorbed all the oil possible. Four ounces of the alkanet root to half a pint of the oil are sufficient. Unboiled or raw linseed oil is generally used. It may take five or six days to color, after the root is put in. It may be put on the work four or five times, with a bit of sponge or a rag.

_To Stain a Maple Stock._—Mix an ounce and a half of nitric acid with about equal quantity of iron turnings or filings. Wait until all the gas evolved has evaporated, and then dip a rag in the liquid and wash the portions of the stock to be colored. When this is dry, wet with the oil and alkanet root.

_Another Method._—A stock may be oiled and then passed over a brisk flame, as that made from dry shavings, until the oil is scorched off, and then lightly rubbed down with fine sand-paper and then finished in the usual way.

_To Color a Maple Stock Brown._—Dissolve a few grains of sulphate of manganese in water; wet the stock and hold over the flame of an alcohol lamp so as to scorch it. By heating some parts more than others the color can be variegated. Oil with raw linseed oil, and polish with a piece of hard wood. The oil and polishing will develop the color, which may be dull at first.

_To Color a Reddish Brown._—Brush the wood with dilute nitric acid, and when dry apply the following with a brush: Dragon’s-blood, four ounces; common soda, one ounce; alcohol, three pints. Repeat if not dark enough.

_To Color a Black._—Boil half a pound of logwood chips in two quarts of water; add one ounce of pearlash, and wash the work with it while hot. Then, when dry, go over the work with the following: Boil half a pound of logwood in two quarts of water; add half an ounce of verdigris and green copperas, in which has been put half a pound of rusty steel or iron filings.

_Rosewood Stain._—Boil half a pint of logwood in three pints of water till the mixture is very dark red; add salts of tartar, one-half ounce, while boiling hot; and while still in this condition apply to the wood, repeating the application two or three times, as the previous application becomes dry. Rub over with a soft cloth when the last application has dried, and set away for a day or so. In the meantime boil one pound of logwood in four quarts of water until of a deep color, then add one pint of vinegar, heat hot and apply to the wood already stained, with a suitable brush, streaking on in imitation of rosewood. When thoroughly dry rub off all loose matter with a soft cloth, and varnish.

_Black-Walnut Stain._—Put together gum asphaltum, one pound, and turpentine, half a gallon. Dissolve by gentle heating, taking care not to heat so as to ignite the turpentine. Rub over the wood, and when dry, if not sufficiently dark, repeat the operation. Having the shade to suit, polish down by rubbing hard with a woollen cloth, followed with a bit of soft wood, then varnish. A stain, not quite so good, but cheaper and more simple, is burnt umber, such as can be bought at any paint shop, ground in oil, thinned with a little turpentine. It should be put on very thick, and then rubbed off to the proper shade with a woollen cloth. Dry and varnish.

_Mahogany Stain._—It is not often that guns are stocked in mahogany, but the gunsmith ought to know how to stain in imitation of that wood, should occasion happen to call for it. Put together, water, one half gallon; madder, four ounces; and fustic, two ounces. Boil. Lay on the wood with a brush while hot; and while yet damp, but not wet, rub off with a woollen cloth; then, when dry, go over with a second coat in streaks to imitate the grain of mahogany. Rub off all loose matter when dry, and varnish.

_Cherry Stain._—Put two ounces of annatto in half a gallon of rain water. Boil until the annatto is dissolved, then add half an ounce of potash. This preparation is intended for wood of a light color. It may be bottled and kept for use when wanted. Nothing to do in the application but rub over the wood, let dry, and then varnish.

_Oil Finish for Gun Stocks._—Mix common Spanish whiting with some kind of coloring material until it is exactly the shade of the wood you desire to finish. For instance, if it is walnut to be finished, the coloring agent will be dry burnt umber. Having the whiting ready, give the wood, which has been well finished up with fine sand paper, a coat of raw linseed oil, then sprinkle the whiting mixture over it, and with a woollen cloth rub thoroughly and hard. This forces the colored whiting into all the pores of the wood. Lastly, rub down heavily with a piece of soft white pine, and then set away to dry. It may be left in this condition, or it may be varnished, when dry, if thought desirable.

_Varnishing and Finishing._—After the stock is shaped and sand-papered so that the surface is smooth and free from any marks of the rasp and scratches of sand-paper wipe it over with a cloth a little moist with water, this will raise the grain of the wood a little, when dry, sand-paper it off smooth. With a small brush, such as is used by painters and called a sash brush, apply the varnish. Shellac varnish is the kind generally used by gunsmiths. It will dry in a little time, but ought to stand about twenty-four hours before being rubbed down. This is done with fine sand-paper the same as finishing the stock, the object being to fill the pores of the wood as much as possible. It may require two, three or even four coats of the varnish to do this, each one after it is thoroughly dried, being sand-papered down to the wood.

The last coat of varnish is laid on with a flat varnish brush made of soft fine hair; see that the varnish be free from dirt or specks and not too thick; put it on evenly and quickly. See that it does not run down so as to show in streaks. When this coat is thoroughly dry, rub it down smooth with powdered pumice stone applied with a rag wet with water. Take care not to cut through the varnish so as to show the wood underneath, as the pumice powder cuts very fast. When the surface is made smooth and even, wash off all traces of the pumice powder with a wet cloth, and wipe it dry. Now go over it with powdered rotten-stone applied with a rag moistened with oil. Rub until the varnished surface shows a finish or a glassy appearance, then wipe off all trace of rotten stone and oil. If a little flour be dusted over, it will better remove the oil traces that may remain; with the hand rub the surface until it presents a gloss. The hand must be soft to do this and must be free from dirt.

_The Varnish for Gun Stocks._—Some workmen use copal varnish because it is cheap and convenient, but it is objectionable on account of its softness and its disposition to crack when exposed to the sun. There are a number of special varnishes recommended to the gunsmith, but for general use perhaps good coach varnish, will answer in many cases. It should be made quite thin with turpentine, and be put on lightly.

_Varnish Can._—A very good form of varnish can is shown in Fig. 25. The essentials are to have a cover with a stem to receive the handles of the brushes, and a bridge crossing the can a little distance down from the top. The cover never sticks, no varnish collects around the sides, and it is always clean and tidy. The can is round and made of tin. The cover shuts over the outside at the top. In wiping the brush across the bridge, be careful not to get any upon the outside of the can where the cover comes in contact. The size of can maybe made according to the needs of the mechanic, but the stem of the cover must be wide enough as well as long enough to receive the brush handles.