Chapter I: Preface

Nature designed Cuba for greatness. That salient fact is written large and clear upon every page of the island’s history. He must lack vision who can not discern it even in the annals of political, military and social development of the Cuban nation. Although one of the earliest lands in the Western Hemisphere to be discovered and colonized, it was actually the last of all to be erected into political independence and thus to enter into an opportunity for improving fully the incomparable opulence of its natural endowment. No land ever shows of what it is capable until it is permitted to do so for its own sake and in its own name.

During the long and tedious centuries of Spanish domination, therefore, the resources of Cuba remained largely latent. That is to be said in full view of the notorious fact that the island was openly declared to be “the milch cow of Spain.” In those two facts appears perhaps the most impressive of all possible testimonies to the surpassing richness of the island. If while it was a mere colony, only partially developed and indeed with its resources only in part explored and imperfectly understood, and with the supreme incentive to enterprise denied it--if in these unfavorable circumstances, we say, it could be a source of so great revenue to Spain and in spite of thus being plundered and drained could still accumulate so considerable a competence for its own people, what must its material opulence prove to be under its own free rule, with every advantage and every encouragement for its full development according to the knowledge of Twentieth Century science?

We need not be fanciful or visionary if we believe that some important purpose was subserved in such withholding of Cuba from complete development until so late a date. Her neighbors went on ahead, developing their resources, and passing through all the political and social vicissitudes of which colonial and national experience is capable, inevitably with a great proportion of sheer loss through ill-directed experimentation. Cuba on the contrary remained held in abeyance until in the fulness of time she could profit from the experience and example of others and thus gain her development at a minimum of effort and expense and with a maximum of net profit.

The beneficent design of nature, to which we have alluded, is to be seen, moreover, in the inherent conditions of insular existence. No other great island of the world is so fortunate in its geographical placing, either strategically or climatically, nor is any other comparable with it in topography and material arrangement and composition. It lies midway between the two great continents of the Western Hemisphere, within easy reach of both across landlocked seas, where it receives the commerce of both and serves as a mart of exchange between them. Similarly it lies between the Temperate Zone and the Torrid Zone, so as to receive at its very doors the products of each and of both, the products, that is to say, of all the world. Nor is it less significant that it lies directly upon the line of commerce and travel not only between North and South but equally between East and West, on the line of passage between the Atlantic and the Pacific and between the lands which border the one and those which occupy the shores of the other. Such strategic position--the strategy of commerce--is unique and incommensurable in value.

Equally beneficent is the climatic situation of Cuba. Mathematically lying just within the tropical zone, it in fact enjoys a temperance of climate surpassing that of the temperate zone itself. It has all the geniality of the regions which lie to the south of it, so that it can produce all the fruits of the sultry tropics in profusion throughout a year-round season of growth; yet it escapes the oppressive and enervating heat which makes life in those lands burdensome to the visitor and indolent to the native. It has the comfort and the tonic properties of northern climes, yet without the trying and sometimes disastrous fluctuations and extremes which too often there prevail. As a result, Cuba can produce, if not always in fullest perfection yet with a gratifying degree of success, practically all the vegetable life of the world, from that which thrives close to the Arctic Circle to that which luxuriates upon the Equator.

In coastal contour, and thus in profusion of fine harbors, Cuba enjoys preeminence among the countries of the world. In varied contour of mountain, valley and plain, in endowment with springs and rivers, she is conspicuously fortunate. The often quoted tribute which her first discoverer paid spontaneously to her magic beauty has been repeated and confirmed uncounted times, with a deeper significance as it has been found that the beauty of this island is not merely superficial but intrinsic, and that Cuba is as hospitable to the interests and welfare of the visitor and resident as she is fair to the passing eye.

It is a grateful task to dwell in these pages upon the varied and opulent resources of the island, in all the natural conditions of the mineral, the vegetable and the animal kingdoms. We shall see that the hopes and dreams of the early conquerors, of rich mines of gold, have been far more than realized in other ways which they knew not of. The mines of what they regarded as base metals, and of metals unknown to them, are richer far than they ever hoped deposits of the “precious” metal to be, while the products of forests and plantations are immeasurably richer still. Today Cuba stands before the world a Treasure Island of incomparable worth even in her present estate, and of an assured potentiality of future opulence which dazzles the imagination.

We shall see, too, most grateful and inspiring of all, how at last the people of Cuba have come into their own and are improving the vast endowment with which nature has so bounteously provided them. It has been only since they gained their independence that they could or would do this; the result being that a score of years have seen more progress than the twenty score preceding. Indeed we may say that the great bulk of this progress has been achieved in the last six or seven years, the earlier years of independence being unfortunately marred with untoward circumstances of dissension and revolt which held in check the progress which the island should have made. But with the final establishment of a government capable of fulfilling all its appropriate functions, the advance of Cuba has been and is to-day swift and unerring.

The taking advantage of natural conditions and resources through scientific applications, the organization and administration of such governmental institutions as best conduce to the security, the prosperity and the happiness of a self-governing people, are agreeable themes to contemplate and are profitable to study. We shall see how agriculture, mining, manufactures and commerce have been promoted in both extent and character. We shall see how all parts of the island realm have been made accessible, for business or for pleasure, with railroads and a marvellous system of highways for motor vehicles. We shall learn of the sanitation of what was once a pestilence infested land until it has become one of the three or four most healthful in the world.

We shall see, too, the practical creation and universal development of a scheme of free popular education which to-day gives to what was within the memory of living men one of the most illiterate of countries such school facilities as scarcely any other can surpass. If we were writing in this volume of some long-established Commonwealth, with many generations, perhaps centuries, of progress and culture behind it, we should not be able to restrain our admiration of much that has been accomplished. When we consider that we are writing of a land that suffered nearly four centuries of repression and oppression, followed by a dozen years of devastating strife, and less than twenty years ago began to live the free life of a sovereign people, we are entranced with amazement at the memory of what Cuba has been, with appreciation of what she is, and with the assured promise of what she is to be.

It was a fascinating task to trace the story of her existence in its many phases, largely of vicissitude, from the days of Diego Velasquez to those of Mario Menocal. But that after all was a record of what has been, of what has largely passed away. More welcome is it to contemplate what Cuba actually is, in present realization and achievement, and to scan with sane and discriminating vision the prospect of what she may be and what, we may well believe with confidence, she will be. It is to reveal the actual Cuba of to-day, and to suggest the surely promised Cuba of to-morrow, that these pages are written. So far as they may seem technical and statistical, their very dryness contains a potency of suggestion surpassing the dreams of romance. So far as they may seem touched with imagination, speculation, enthusiasm, they are still based upon the practical and indubitable foundation of ascertained facts. Their aim is to present to the world an accurate, comprehensive and sympathetic living picture of the Twentieth Century Republic of Cuba, and as such they are submitted to the reader with a cheerful confidence, if not always in the adequacy of its treatment, at least in the unfailing interest and merit of the theme.

January, 1920.

WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON.

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I. THE PEOPLE OF CUBA.....1

The People of Cuba--Hospitality Their Characteristic--Love of Children--Founders of the Cuban Nation from the Southern Provinces of Spain--An Admixture of French Blood--Immigration from Northern Spain--English, Irish, Italian and German Immigrants--Colonists from the United States.

CHAPTER II. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA.....10

The Topography of Cuba--Five Distinct Zones--The Mountain Ranges--Plateaus and Plains--The Highest Peak in Cuba--The Organ Mountains--Beautiful Valleys and Fertile Plains--Action of the Water Courses--Character of the Soil.

CHAPTER III. THE CLIMATE OF CUBA.....19

The Climate of Cuba--Freedom from Extremes of Temperature--Influence of the Trade Winds--No Ice and Little Frost--The Rainy Season and the Dry Season--Gloomy Days Practically Unknown.

CHAPTER IV. PROVINCE OF HAVANA.....21

The Province of Havana--The Pivotal Province of the Island--Visits by Columbus and Velasquez--Topography of the Province--Soil and Products--Agricultural Wealth--The Fruit Industry--Manufacturing--The Harbor of Havana--Transportation Facilities--The Water Supply--The Climate--The Seat of Government and Social Centre of the Island.

CHAPTER V. PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO.....34

The Province of Pinar del Rio--A Picturesque Region--Interesting Topography--The Organ Mountains--The Vinales Valley--A Rare Palm Tree--Hard Wood Timber--Agriculture--Harbors and Fishing Interests--Tobacco Lands of the Vuelta Abajo--Coffee Plantations--Mineral Resources.

CHAPTER VI. PROVINCE OF MATANZAS.....49

The Province of Matanzas--Comparatively Unimportant in History--A Great Drainage and Traffic Canal--Rivers and Mountains--The Coast and Islands--The Henequen Industry--The City of Matanzas--The Caves of Bellamar--Sugar Production--Mineral Resources.

CHAPTER VII. PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA.....60

The Province of Santa Clara--A Land of Great Variety of Scenes--Ancient Gold-Seeking--The Mountain Ranges--Rich Lands of the Parks and Valleys--Rivers and Lakes--Harbors--Cities of the Province--The “Swamp of the Shoe”--Forests, Sugar Plantations, Tobacco, and Coffee--Opportunities for Stock Raising.

CHAPTER VIII. PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY.....71

The Province of Camaguey--Where Columbus First Landed--In the Days of Velasquez--Events of the Ten Years’ War--Topography of the Province--Mountain Ranges--Rivers and Coastal Lagoons--Harbors--Lack of Railroads--The Sugar Industry--Minerals--American Colonies--Some Noted Men.

CHAPTER IX. PROVINCE OF ORIENTE.....83

The Province of Oriente--Area and Topography--Mountains and Rivers--Fine Harbors--Great Sugar Mills--Scene of the First Spanish Settlement in Cuba--The Bay of Guantanamo--Santiago de Cuba--Copper Mines--Manzanillo--The Cauto Valley--Sugar Plantations and Stock Ranches--Timber and Minerals--American Colonies.

CHAPTER X. THE ISLE OF PINES.....99

The Isle of Pines--An Integral Part of Cuba--American Settlements and Claims--Character of the Island--Infertile and Storm Swept--Vast Deposits of Muck--Marble Quarries--Efforts to Promote Agricultural Interests.

CHAPTER XI. MINES AND MINING.....104

Mines and Mining--The Early Quest of Gold--First Working of Copper Mines--The Wealth of El Cobre--Copper in All Parts of Cuba--Operations in Pinar del Rio--Vast Iron Deposits in Oriente--Nickel and Manganese--Exports of Ore--American Investigation of Chrome Deposits--Many Beds of Great Richness--Manganese and Chrome for All the World.

CHAPTER XII. ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM.....126

Asphalt and Petroleum--Ocampo’s Early Discovery at Puerto Carenas--Humboldt’s Reports of Petroleum Wells--Prospecting for Oil in Many Places--Some Promising Wells--Asphalt Deposits of Great Value--Prospects for Important Petroleum Developments.

CHAPTER XIII. FORESTRY.....135

Forestry--Vast Resources of Fine Woods Recklessly Squandered in Early Times--Houses Built of Mahogany--Hundreds of Varieties of Valuable Timber Trees--A Catalogue of Sixty of the Most Useful--Need of Transportation for the Lumber Trade--Forests Owned by the State.

CHAPTER XIV. AGRICULTURE.....144

Agriculture--The Chief Interest of Cuba--Fertility of Soil, Geniality of Climate, and Variety of Products--The Rainfall--Many Farmers Specialists--The Government’s Experimental Station--Opportunities for Stock-Raising--Work of the Department of Agriculture--Its Various Bureaus--Value of Experimental Work Begun by General Wood and Extended by President Menocal--Improving Live Stock--Fruit Growing--Grains and Grasses--Combating Insect Pests--Bureau of Plant Sanitation.

CHAPTER XV. SUGAR.....160

“King Cane”--Cuba’s Crop and the World’s Production--Natural Conditions Favorable to Sugar Culture--Extent of Lands Still Available--The “Savana” and “Cienaga” Lands--Assured Projects for Draining Great Swamps--Potential Increase of Sugar Production in Cuba--Methods of Planting, Culture and Harvesting--The Labor Problem--Improved Machinery--Something About the Principal Sugar Producing Concerns in Cuba and the Men Who Have Created Them and Are Directing Them--The Largest Sugar Company in the World--Cuba’s Assured Rank as the World’s Chief Sugar Plantation.

CHAPTER XVI. TOBACCO.....183

The Tobacco Industry--First European Acquaintance with the Plant--The Famous Fields of the Vuelta Abajo--Immense Productivity--Methods of Culture and Harvesting--Various Regions of Tobacco Culture--Insect Pests--Wholesale Use of Cheesecloth Canopies--Monetary Importance of the Industry.

CHAPTER XVII. HENEQUEN.....190

The Henequen Industry--The Source of Binding Twine for the Wheat Fields--Cuban Plantations Now Surpassing Those of Yucatan--Methods of Growth and Manufacture--Magnitude of the Industry and Possibilities of Further Extension.

CHAPTER XVIII. COFFEE.....197

The Coffee Industry--Early Plantations Which Were Neglected and Abandoned--An Attractive Industry--Methods of Culture--Harvesting and Marketing the Crop--Government Encouragement Being Given for Extension of the Industry.

Chapter XIX. The Mango.....203

The Mango--The King of Oriental Fruits--Two Distinct Types in Cuba--All Varieties Prolific--The Trees and the Fruits--Some of the Favorite Varieties--Marketing and Use.

CHAPTER XX. CITRUS FRUITS.....211

Citrus Fruits--American Introduction of the Commercial Industry--Varieties of Oranges--Comparison with Florida and California Fruit--Grape Fruit in the Isle of Pines--Limes and Wild Oranges.

CHAPTER XXI. BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS.....219

Antiquity and Universality of the Banana--Its Many Uses--Commercial Cultivation in Cuba--Methods of Culture--Varieties--Pineapple Culture in Cuba--One of the Staple Crops--Difficulty of Marketing--The Canning Industry--The Fruit of the Anon--The Zapote or Sapodilla--The Tamarind--The Mamey--The Guava--The Mamoncillo--Figs of All Varieties--The Aguacate.

CHAPTER XXII. GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA.....232

Grape Culture Discouraged by Spain--Recent Development of the Industry--Much Wine Drinking but Little Drunkenness--Food and Drink in the Cacao--The Chocolate Industry--Culture and Manufacture of Cacao--The Vanilla Bean--Methods of Gathering and Preparing the Crop.

CHAPTER XXIII. VEGETABLE GROWING.....240

Vegetable Growing in Cuba--Regions Most Suitable for the Industry--Seed Brought from the United States--Winter Crops of Potatoes--Green Peppers a Profitable Crop--Cultivation of Tomatoes and Egg Plants--Okra--Lima Beans and String Beans--Squashes and Pumpkins--Desirability of the Canning Industry--Utility of Irrigation--Prospects of Profit in Truck Farming.

CHAPTER XXIV. STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE.....248

Indian Corn Indigenous--Improvements in Culture Desirable--Millet or Kaffir Corn--Neglect of Wheat Growing--Culture of Upland Rice--Possibilities of Swamp Rice Culture--Profusion of Meadow and Pasture Grasses--Experiments with Alfalfa--Cultivation of Cow Peas and Beans--Peanut Plantations.

CHAPTER XXV. ANIMALS.....257

Paucity of Native Fauna--Deer, Caprimys and Ant Eaters--The Sand Hill Crane--Guinea Fowls, Turkeys and Quails--Buzzards, Sparrow Hawks, Mocking Birds and Wild Pigeons--Varieties of Parrots--The Oriole--The Tody--The Lizard Cuckoo--The Trogon--Water Birds.

CHAPTER XXVI. STOCK RAISING.....263

Introduction of Horses and Cattle by the Spaniards--Improvement in the Quality of Stock--A Favorable Land for Cattle Ranges--Importation of Blooded Stock from the United States and Europe--Introduction of the Zebu--Great Profits in Hog Raising--Forage, Nuts and Root Crops for Stock Food--Sheep and Goat Raising for Wool, Meat and Hides--Value of the Angora Goat.

CHAPTER XXVII. POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES.....278

Recent Scientific Development of the Poultry Industry--President Menocal’s Importations of Choice Stock--Opportunities for Agriculture--Wild and Domesticated Bees--Varieties of Honey Yielding Flowers--Large Exportations of Wax and Honey--Valuable Sponge Fisheries on the Cuban Coast.

CHAPTER XXVIII. PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST.....284

Historic Interest of Havana Harbor--The Romance and Tragedy of El Morro--“The Twelve Apostles”--The Vast Fortress of La Cabaña--The “Road Without Hope”--A Scene of Slaughter--Cells of the Fortress Prison--The Castillo de Punta--The Ancient City Walls--The Romance of La Fuerza--Ancient Churches and Convents of Havana--The Cathedral and the Tomb of Columbus--The San Francisco Convent--San Agustin--La Merced--Santa Catalina--Santo Angel--Santa Clara--The Convent of Belen--The Old Echarte Mansion--La Chorrera--Fort Cojimar--Some Ancient Watch Towers and Fortresses--The Botanical Gardens.

CHAPTER XXIX. HAVANA.....303

The Charms of Havana--Early History of the City--Made the Capital of Cuba--The Quarries from Which It Was Built--Something About Its Principal Streets and Buildings--Various Sections of the City--On the Road to the Almandares--Principe Hill--The University of Havana--The Famous Prado--The National Theatre--The Central Park and Parque de Colon--Colon Cemetery--Music in Havana--Favorite Drives and Resorts--The Bathing Beach--Fishing--Jai Alai--Baseball--Horse Racing--Golf--Buildings of the Various Government Departments--Memories of the Old Presidential Palace--Some Fine New Buildings--The New Presidential Palace--The New Capitol--The National Hospital.

CHAPTER XXX. A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES.....326

A Paradise of Palm Drives--Splendor of the Flamboyans--The Road to Guines--A Fine Drive to Matanzas--Roads from Havana to Guanajay, Artemisa and the Ruby Hills--Old Military Roads Improved and Extended--Fine Drives in Pinar del Rio--The Valley of Vinales--Some Wonderful Landscapes and Seascapes--Roads Radiating from Matanzas--The Roads of Santa Clara and Camaguey--Road Making Among the Mountains of Oriente.

CHAPTER XXXI. BAYS AND HARBORS.....340

The Bays and Harbors of the Cuban Coasts--Bahia Honda--Cabanas--Mariel--Havana--Matanzas--The Land-Locked Bay of Cardenas--Santa Clara Bay--Sagua--Caibarien--The Bay of Nuevitas--Manati--Puerto Padre--Gibara--Banes--Nipe--Levisa--Baracoa--Guantanamo--Santiago--Manzanillo--Cienfuegos--Batabano--Santa Cruz--Various Other Ports, Great and Small.

CHAPTER XXXII. RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA.....353

Origin of the Railroad Systems of Cuba--The United Railways of Havana--The Matanzas Railway--Electric Lines Around Havana--The Great Work of Sir William Van Horne--The Cuba Company’s Railroad System--The Cuba Central Road--The North Shore Line--Other Lines and Branches Existing or Projected.

CHAPTER XXXIII. MONEY AND BANKING.....361

Money and Banking in Cuba--The First Currency of the Island--The First Monetary Crisis at Havana--Development of Modern Coinage and Currency--Single Standard and Double Standard--Colonial Paper Money--Stabilization of Currency Under American Rule--Statistics of Shipments of Money--Coinage of Cuban Money Under the New System--Financing the Foreign Commerce of the Island.

CHAPTER XXXIV. PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.....367

The Educational System of Cuba--Influences of Clericalism--Work of General Wood and Mr. Frye--Cooperation of Harvard University--Dr. Lincoln de Zayas--The Teaching of English--Progress Under President Menocal--Scope of the System--Some Special Schools--Normal Schools--The Institute of Havana--The National University--Cooperation with the United States--The Free Public Library.

CHAPTER XXXV. OCEAN TRANSPORTATION.....376

Importance of Ocean Transportation to the Insular Republic--Development of the United Fruit Company--The Ward Line and Its Fleet--A Network of Communications with All Parts of the World--Service of the Munson Line--The Peninsular and Occidental Company--The Railroad Ferry Service from Key West to Cuba--The Pinillos Izquierdo Line from Spain--The Morgan or Southern Pacific Line--The Great Fleet of the Compagnie General Transatlantique--A New Line from Japan--Customs Regulations--The Consular Service of Cuba.