Chapter I: Front Matter

THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE.

THE
HISTORY OF FASHION
IN FRANCE;

OR,

THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN
PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME.

_FROM THE FRENCH OF_
M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL.

BY
MRS. CASHEL HOEY AND MR. JOHN LILLIE.

London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1882.
[_All rights reserved._]

LONDON:
PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

INTRODUCTION.

Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its
history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The
refinement of their tastes and fancies—Paris the temple of
fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars’ yellow gown—The causes
of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin’s—A remark of Mrs.
Trollope’s—The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of
fashion—The Gynæceum of Amman—First appearance of the “Journal
des Dames et des Modes”—Lamésangère—Other publications—An
anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of Fashion in
France 1

CHAPTER I.

THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD.

Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgètes—“Mavors”
and “Palla”—Cleanliness of the Gallic women—The froth
of beer or “kourou”—The women of Marseilles; their
marriage-portions—Gallo-Roman period—The Roman garment—The
“stola”—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of
women—Artificial aids—A “vestiaire” or wardrobe-room of the
period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal
ball—Influence of the barbarians 13

CHAPTER II.

THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD.

Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the
Franks—Customs of the latter—The Merovingians—Costumes of skins
and felt; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap,
the “guimpe,” the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn
themselves with flowers—Various articles of dress—The
“suint”—Young girls dress their hair without ornaments—St.
Radégonde—The hair of married women 21

CHAPTER III.

THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD.

Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two
tunics—Judith’s belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the
Mazarin Library—Charles the Bald’s Bible—Shoes—Dress of Queen
Lutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha—Gisla and other kinswomen
of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne—Cannes—Adelaide of
Vermandois—The dress of widows 25

CHAPTER IV.

THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD.

Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of
costume in the provinces—Fashions in the Duchy of
France—French taste dating from the eleventh century—Luxury
increases with each generation—The dominical—The
“bliaud”—Canes of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth
century—Head-dresses—“Afiche”—Serpent-tails—Pelisses—The
thirteenth century—“Grèves” and veils are in fashion—The
“couvre-chef” in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or
“cotte-hardie,” surcoat, or overall, or over-skirt, cape,
trained skirt, and “gauzape”—Accessories—Emblazoned
gowns—Various kinds of stuffs 31

CHAPTER V.

THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES.

Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and
_guimpes_—Marguerite of Provence—“Fermaux”—Reappearance
of splendour in dress—Eastern customs—The priests
of fashion—Haberdashery and peacock-feathers—Female
embroiderers—Taste for embroidery—Continual
temptations—Earliest sumptuary laws—Furs—St. Louis’s opinion
on dress—Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his
wife—Crépine 39

CHAPTER VI.

REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V.

The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries—Low dresses—Saying of
a mercer—_Damoiselles_—_Garnaches_ and _garde-corps_—_Le
Parement des dames_—Social distinctions—High character is worth
more than gilded belt—Precious stones—The castles and other
dwellings of the Middle Ages—Splendid furniture—Humble abodes
of the poor—Evening assemblies 45

CHAPTER VII.

REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII.

Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings,
the “cornette,” and the “hennin” in the reign of Charles
VI.—Husbands complain—Preachers denounce—Thomas Connecte
declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard tries
to reform it—The “hennin” gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne
de Bourbon—“Escoffion”—An absurd figure—Gravouère—Isabeau
de Bavière—Gorgiasetés—Tripes—Splendour of the court—Agnes
Sorel—“Coiffe adournée;” diamonds; the carcan—Walking-sticks 51

CHAPTER VIII.

REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII.

Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—“La grand’gorre,”
or sumptuosity—The “troussoire”—Allegorical and moral
costumes—Trains—Head-dresses—“Collets rebrassés”—Wigs
and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy—Italian
fashions—“Sollerets” and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—Jean Marot
writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot “the
golden-tongued”—A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.—Coat à
l’Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs 61

CHAPTER IX.

REIGN OF FRANCIS I.

The court of Francis I.—A speech of Charles V.—The
king’s liberality—Order of the Cordelière—Word-paintings
of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of
the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The “hoche-plis” or
vertugadin—Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin’s life—Satires
and songs—Mdlle. de Lacépède—“Contenances”—Silk shoes with
slashes—Head-dress called a “passe-filon”—Increase of love of
dress—The bean-flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair
called _ratraprenades_—Ferronières—Coaches in Paris; their
influence on the fashions 71

CHAPTER X.

REIGN OF HENRI II.

Fashions under Henri II.—The ruff—A satirical print of
the time—Catherine de Médicis eats soup—The Italian
taste—Regulations for dress—Crimson—Who shall wear silk?—Lines
on velvet, by Ronsard—Rotonde—“Collet monté”—Spring-water—Style
of gowns and head-dresses—Wired sleeves—Girdles—Caps, bonnets,
and hoods—The “touret de nez”—The “coffin à roupies”—Shoes—A
quotation from Rabelais 81

CHAPTER XI.

REIGN OF FRANCIS II.

The earliest queens of fashion—Mary Stuart’s costumes;
her jewels—Description of bodices and sleeves of that
period—Crosses—The “loup” or small mask—Coiffure “en
raquette”—An anecdote concerning high heels—Regulations
respecting fashion—Remark of a lady of our own day on
distinctions in dress—Exordium of the Edict of July 12,
1549—Maximum of marriage portions—The first knitted silk
stockings 89

CHAPTER XII.

REIGN OF CHARLES IX.

The wars of religion—The fashions of Italy are brought
across the Alps, and are welcomed in France—Effects of
the expeditions into Italy—Articles from Venice and Genoa
are very fashionable—A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower
of scents—Effeminate style of dress—Charles IX. and his
Edicts against extravagant display—Fashion rebels against
sumptuary laws—Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows,
and spinsters—Wedding dresses—Observations of a Venetian
ambassador—“Corps piqué”—Drawers—Paint—Cosmetics—Breast
mirrors, girdle mirrors—Court dresses—“Arcelets” 95

CHAPTER XIII.

REIGN OF HENRI III.

Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress—The wife
of President N——.—How both sexes evaded the edicts—Gowns
from Milan—Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions—Rage
for perfumes—Recognition of rank is demanded—Costumes
worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the
Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois—Brantôme’s
opinion—Pointed bodices, puffed-out sleeves, and
“bourrelets”—Remarks on hair—Ridiculous dress of men—Poucet,
the preacher—Satirical lines on Joyeuse—Witty remark of Pierre
de l’Estoile—Starch used by Henri III.—Cushions 103

CHAPTER XIV.

REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII.

Universal mourning on the death of the Guises; intolerance
of showy dress—Vertugadins, “espoitrement,” “corps
espagnolé”—Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels,
and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d’Estrées and
to the queen—Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut
bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various styles—Venetian
slippers—Edicts of Louis XII.—Caricatures: “Pompe funèbre de
la Mode”—Words and fashions—Ribbons or “galants”—Dress of
widows—“Demi-ceint” girdles—Gloves of all sorts—Patches—Masks;
their use—“Cache-laid”—The Frondeuses—Mme. de Longueville 113

CHAPTER XV.

REIGN OF LOUIS XIV.

Louis XIV. commands—Court luxury and pleasure; disguises—The
Temple jewellery—Fashion and etiquette—Successive
fashions—Royal edicts—The “Tombeau du sens commun”—Dress
of La Vallière—Of Mme. de Montespan—Costume of a
lady of rank in 1668—The “échelles de Mme. de la
Reynie”—“Transparencies”—Manufactures—Champagne, the
hair-dresser—Female hair-dressers—“Hurluberlus” and Mme. de
Sévigné—Moustaches for women; patches—Palatines—Slippers;
high heels—Corsets; fans; sweet lemons—Dog-muffs—Hair
dressed “à la Fontanges”—English style of dressing
hair—“Esther”—Steinkerks—“Crémonas”—“Amadis” and Jansenist
sleeves—Hair dressed “à l’effrontée”—Dresses of the Duchesse de
Bourgogne—Mignardises 125

CHAPTER XVI.

REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. (CONTINUED).

Painted faces—Reply of a Turkish ambassador—Ineffectual
criticism—Mme. Turcaret’s “pretintailles”—Mme. Bonnet’s
law-suit—Brocaded materials—“Andriennes”—“Criardes”—Return
of “hoops” and paniers—A sailor’s leap—Actresses’ paniers,
and the Greek head-dress—Mme. de Létorières—D’Hèle arrives
frozen at the Café Procope—Waterproofs—Finishing touches—Fans
and fan-makers in the seventeenth century—What Mme. de
Staël-Holstein thought of fans—Transition 143

CHAPTER XVII.

REIGN OF LOUIS XV.

The Regency—War is declared against paniers—The Oratorian
Duguet—Opinion of the “Journal de Verdun”—Various
publications against paniers—Lines by Voltaire—Whale-fishery
company—Paragraph from the “Journal de Barbier”—Mmes. Jaucourt,
De Seine, Delisle, Clairon, and Hus—Lines in praise of
corsets—New bodices—Coloured prints are forbidden—“Perses”
or “Persiennes”—Bagnolette—Adjuncts of dress: necklaces,
ridicules, and poupottes—Contents of a patch-box—A sermon
by Massillon—“Les mouches de Massillon,” or Massillon’s
patches—“Filles de Mode,” or Fashion-girls—Some passing
fashions—Powder remains in fashion—“Monte-au-ciel”—Simply made
gowns—The first cachemire 151

CHAPTER XVIII.

REIGN OF LOUIS XVI.

The influence of Marie Antoinette on fashion—Letter from
Maria Theresa—Léonard and Mdlle. Bertin—Various styles
of head-dresses—“Pouf”—The “Journal de Paris”—Reign of
Louis XVI.—Male and female hair-dressers—Plumes—Hair
worn low—The queen’s “puce”-coloured gown; shades of
colour in dresses—Oberkampf and the Jouy prints—Expensive
satins—Trimmings, their great number and importance—Gauze,
blond, tulle, and ribbons—Some kinds of shoes—Venez-y-voir—The
“Archduchess” ribbons—A dress worn at the opera 161

CHAPTER XIX.

REIGN OF LOUIS XVI. (CONTINUED).

Peasant dress is universal—Fashion “à la
Marlborough”—Caps—Bonnets—Mdlles. Fredin and Quentin—Ruches—Low
bodices; “postiches”—Costume of Contat-Suzanne—Fashions “à
la Figaro”—Literature and politics signified in dress; the
Princess de Monaco’s pouf—Pouf “à la circonstance;” the
“inoculation” pouf—The “innocence made manifest” caraco—The
“harpy” costume—Coats, cravats, and waistcoats—Sailor jackets
and “pierrots”—Déshabillés; “the lying fichu”—Etiquette in
dress—Seasonable costumes—The queen’s card-table—State of trade
in Paris, _circa_ 1787—“Pinceauteuses,” or female colourers 171

CHAPTER XX.

THE FRENCH REPUBLIC.

The year 1789—Masculine style of dress—The double dress
vanishes—Caps “à la grande prêtresse,” “à la pierrot,”
and “à la laitière”—The “pouf” bonnet—Paint and powder
disappear—Prediction by the _Cabinet des Modes_—Anonymous
caps—Cap “à la Charlotte Corday”—Trinkets “à la Bastille”—Mme.
de Genlis’ locket—Cap “à la Bastille”—Federal uniforms—Claims
to equality in dress—Reaction under the Directory—“Incroyables”
and “merveilleuses”—Coiffures “à la victime” and “à la
Titus”—Blond wigs and black wigs—The Hôtel Thélusson—_Which is
the most ridiculous?_—Mme. Tallien’s costume—Epigram on bonnets
“à la folle”—Reticules—Transparent dresses—Lines by Despréaux 179

CHAPTER XXI.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON I.

Fashions under the Empire—Sacks—“Personnes cossues”—A saying of
Napoleon’s—White gowns—Valenciennes lace—Ball dresses; walking
dresses—Polish “toquets” and bonnets—Turbans—Muslins—Artificial
flowers—Wenzel’s manufactory; “The Offspring of Imposture,”
Campenon’s verses—Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace
Vernet—Stays—Cashmeres—Protest by Piis—Ternaux assists
in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in
France—Cotton stuffs—Richard Lenoir; importance of the Rouen
manufacture—Violets during the Hundred Days—The “eighteen
folds,” and white silk 191

CHAPTER XXII.

REIGNS OF LOUIS XVIII. AND CHARLES X.

Importation of foreign fashions in 1815—White dresses,
white feathers, and fleurs de lys—Emigrant ladies—Russian
toques—Male and female dressmakers—Ruchings—Short sleeves
and long gloves—Herbault’s bonnets—“Chefs”—Anglomania in
1815—Green gauze veils; spencers—The “canezou”—Lacroix, the
stay-maker—Dr. Pelletan and Charles X.—Wasps—The “Ourika”
fashions—The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves—Fashions “à
l’Ipsiboé,” “au Trocadéro,” and “à la Dame Blanche”—Blonde caps
and turbans—Head-dresses—Fashions “à la giraffe;” “the last
sigh of Jocko”—Female book-keepers; shopwomen—The Café des
Mille-Colonnes 197

CHAPTER XXIII.

REIGN OF LOUIS PHILIPPE.

The Revolution of July, 1830—Fashions in Louis
Philippe’s reign—Microscopical bonnets, called “bibis,”
“cabriolets”—Variety of caps—Fashions of the Middle Ages and
of the Renaissance—The stage—Historic costumes—Influence of
Rachel, the actress—Greek and Roman fashions—Colours—Various
designations of materials—Bedouin sleeves—Bonnets and
head-dresses—Pamela bonnets—Novel eccentricities—Taglioni
gowns, gathered “à la Vierge,” laced “à la Niobé,” &c.—The
“Sylvestrine”—Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on
the king’s life—Bouquets for balls 205

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE SECOND REPUBLIC.

Tricoloured stuffs of 1848—Girondin mantles—Open gowns—Summer
dresses—Kasawecks and their derivatives—Beaver bonnets; velvet
bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets—Cloches, Cornelia,
Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks; mantles—Isly green—Opera
cloaks—Numerous styles of dressing the hair: à la Marie
Stuart, à la Valois, Léda, Proserpine, and Ceres—Marquise
parasols—Jewellery—Straw bonnets—“Orleans” and “armure”—Work
reticule or bag—“Chinés”—Pagoda sleeves—Waistcoats; basque
bodices—New and economical canezous 213

CHAPTER XXV.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III.

Ready-made mantles—Talmas, mousquetaires, and rotondes—The
Second Empire; reminiscences of the reign of Napoleon
I.—Marriage of Napoleon III.; dress of the new Empress; her
hair dressed by Félix Escalier; court mantle and train—Four
kinds of dress—Opera dress in 1853-4—Bodices “à la Vierge,”
Pompadour bodices, and Watteau bodices—Skirt trimmings—A
new colour, “Théba”—Light tints—Social and theatrical
celebrities—The Eugénie head-dress and Mainnier bands—End of
the first period of Imperial fashions 221

CHAPTER XXVI.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).

Crinoline inaugurates the second era of Imperial fashions—The
reign of crinoline—Starched petticoats—Whaleboned
petticoats—Steel hoops—Two camps are formed, one in favour
of, and one inimical to crinoline—Large collars—Marie
Antoinette fichus and mantles—Exhibition of 1855—Cashmere
shawls—Pure cashmeres—Indian cashmere shawls—Indian woollen
shawls—“Mouzaia” shawls—Algerian burnouses—Pompadour
parasols—Straight parasols—School for fans—The fan drill—The
Queen of Oude’s fans—The Charlotte Corday fichu 227

CHAPTER XXVII.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).

Sea-bathing and watering-places—Special
costumes—Travelling-bags—Hoods and woollen shawls—Convenient
style of dress—Kid and satin boots; high heels—Introduction
of the “several” and the “Ristori”—Expensive
pocket-handkerchiefs—Waists are worn shorter—Zouave, Turkish,
and Greek jackets—Bonnet-fronts—Gold trimmings universally
used—Tarlatane, tulle, and lace 233

CHAPTER XXVIII.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).

Fashions in 1860 and 1861—Jewellery—Shape of “Russian”
bonnets—Nomenclature of girdles—Different styles of dressing
the hair—The “Ceres” wreath—Flowers and leaves for the
hair—Prohibition of green materials—Anecdotes from the
_Union Médicale_ and the _Journal de la Nièvre_—Cloth and
silk mantles—Braid and astrakan—Four types of bonnet—Morning
bonnets—Artificial flowers 237

CHAPTER XXIX.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).

Sunshades, en-tout-cas, _métis_, in 1862—Sailors’ jackets,
jerseys, and pilot-jackets—Princess or demi-princess gowns;
Swiss bodices; corset or postillion belts—Lydia and Lalla
Rookh jackets; Vespertina opera cloaks—“Longchamps is no
more”—Bois de Boulogne—Russian or Garibaldi bodices—Paletot
vest—Empress belt—1885 patents for inventions regarding
dress are taken out in 1864—Victoria skeleton skirts; Indian
stays; train-supporters—“Titian”-coloured hair—The Peplum in
1866—Épicycloïde steels; aquarium earrings—Description of a
court ball-dress—The fashions of Louis XV., Louis XVI., and the
Empire are revived—Sedan chairs—Handkerchiefs at all prices 241

CHAPTER XXX.

REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (END).

Five different styles of dressing the hair in 1868 and
1869—“Petit catogan;” three triple bandeaus—The hair is
worn loose—Dress of the Duchess de Mouchy—Refinements of
fashion—Various journals—New shades—Crinoline is attacked; it
resists; it succumbs—Chinese fashions 247

CHAPTER XXXI.

THE THIRD REPUBLIC.

The years 1870 and 1871—The siege of Paris—General
mourning—Simplicity and economy—Parisian velvet and
pekin—A concert costume—A cloth costume—Alsatian bows and
costumes—Soirées at the Presidency—Marie Stuart and Michael
Angelo bonnets—“Hunting stockings”—Rabagas hats—The years
1872 and 1873—Fan parasols—“Leopold Robert” bonnets—The
year 1873—Return of luxury—“Regent” belts and “sovereign”
dress-improvers—Silks—“Moderate” costumes—The burning of
the Opera House—Sale on behalf of those made orphans by the
war—The ball for the Lyons weavers—Cashmere tunics—Dislike
to gloves—Petticoats—Charles IX. shoes—Slippers—The
year 1874—“Page” bonnets and “Margot” hats—Hair in the
Swiss style; false hair—The ball given by the Chamber of
Commerce—Green—Jet—Various costumes—Hair-dressing—“Mercury”
bonnets 251

CHAPTER XXXII.

FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY.

Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in
1875—Importation of false hair—Manufacture in
France—Modification of waterproofs—“Estelle”
bonnets—Tunic aprons—Cuirass bodices—“Montespan”
sleeves—“Saut-du-lit”—Shoes of past times—“Bonnes-femmes”
pockets—Henri III. plumes—“Inez” veils—Ribbons and
flowers—Heavy style of dress—“Pouf” petticoats—Composite
fashions of 1876—Armenian toques—“Ophelia” bonnets; “Danichef”
bonnets—Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild’s wedding trousseau—A
splendid parasol—Gondolier hair-nets—“Baby” sashes and
“Baby” bonnets—“Fontanges” fichus—“Platitudes”—Red, as a
colour—Pockets of various kinds—Majestic appendages—Princess
dresses—Bouquets on the bodices—Hair dressed in the
Greek style—A thousand curls—Breton style—Organ-pipe
frills—Coat-bodices—Trinkets in black and silver 263