Chapter V: Letter IV (1)

WE could sensibly perceive in arriving at Burgos, that this Town is colder than any of those we past; and ’tis likewise said, you have none of those excessive Heats which are intolerable in other Parts of Spain: The Town stands where you descend the Mountain, and reaches to the Plain as far as the River, which washes the foot of the Wall: the Streets are very strait and even: the Castle is not great, but very strong, and is seen on the top of the Mountain: A little lower is the Triumphant Arch of Fernando Gonsales, which the Curious do much admire. This Town was the first that was conquer’d from the Mores; and the Kings of Spain have long resided here; ’tis the Capital of Old Castille; it holds the first Rank in the two States of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it with her: You see her fine Buildings; and Velasco’s Palace is very stately. Here are in all the broad Streets and spacious Places, Fountains, with Statues, some of which are good Pieces; but the finest sight is the Cathedral, which is so large, that Mass is said in five several places of it, without any disturbance to each other: the Architecture is so exquisitely wrought, that it may pass among the Gothick Buildings for a Master-Piece of Art: and this is so much the more remarkable, in that they build very sorrily in Spain; in some places this is through Poverty, and in others want of Stone and Lime: I am told that even at Madrid you see Houses of Earth, and the finest are made with Brick, cemented with the same, for want of Lime. To pass from the Town to the Suburbs of Bega, you go over three Stone Bridges: the Gate which answers that of Santa Maria, stands high, with the Image of the Virgin upon it: this Suburb contains the greatest part of the Convents and Hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the Second, to receive the Pilgrims which go to St. James, and which entertains them for a Day. The Abbey of Mille Flores, whose Building is very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this Suburb several Gardens which are watered with Fountains and pleasant Springs; the River serves for a Channel: And you find in a great Park inclosed with Walls, pleasant Walks at all times of the Year.

I would have seen the Crucifix in the Augustines Convent; it is placed in a Chappel of the Cloyster, large and dark enough, so that you could hardly discern it, were it not for the Lamps, which are continually burning, they’r above an hundred; some are of Gold, and others of Silver, of so extraordinary a size, that they cover all the Vault of this Chappel: there are sixty Silver candlesticks of a length exceeding the tallest Man, and so heavy that two Men cannot lift ’em: they stand on the ground on both sides of the Altar; those which are upon it are of Massy Gold: You see between ’em two Crosses of the same, set out with Precious Stones, and Crowns hanging over the Altar, adorn’d with Pearls and Diamonds of great Lustre: The Chappel is hung with Tapistry, wrought with Gold; it is so laden with rich Gifts, that there’s hardly room to put ’em in; so that part of ’em are kept in the Treasury.

The Holy Crucifix stands on the Altar, near the natural bigness, it is covered with three Curtains one on another, all embroidered with Pearls and Diamonds: When they open them, which is not done without great Ceremony, and for Persons of Quality, several Bells are rung, every one falls on his Knees: and it must be granted, that this place and sight strikes one with an Awful Regard: The Crucifix is of Carv’d Work, and cannot be better made; its Carnation is very natural; it is covered from the Breasts to the Feet with a fine Linnen, in several Foulds or Pleats, which makes it look like a loose Jerkin, which in my Opinion, is not over-agreeable.

It is commonly held, that Nicodemus made it; but those who are for making every thing Miraculous, will have it brought down from Heaven, they know not how nor when. I was told, certain Monks of this Town had once stole it, and convey’d it away; but it took a convenient time to give ’em the slip, and was found the next Morning in the Chappel in its usual place: These honest People being enraged, that it should serve ’em such a Trick, mustered up their Forces, and violently laid Hands on’t the second time, but to as little purpose; for ’twould by no means stay with ’em: However, it works Miracles, and is one of the chief Objects of Devotion in Spain: The Religious tell you, it sweats every Friday.

I was going into my Inn, when we saw the Sieur de Cardonne’s Valet de Chambre, running as fast as he could after us; he was booted, and three Friers scowring after him: I was over-rash in my Judgment; for I could not but think he had stole something in this rich Chappel, and was taken in the Fact; but his Master, who was with me, having demanded of him, What put him on such full speed? He answer’d, He went into the Chappel of the Holy Crucifix with his Spurs on, and the Fryers had kept him in custody, to get Money of him, but that he was gotten out of their Clutches, but they were now upon the Hunt for him. They make it a Forfeit, as well as others, for a Man to go with Spurs into these Holy Places.

The Town is not very great; it is adorned with a spacious Place; here are high Pillars which bear up very fine Lodgings. The Bull-Feasts are kept here; for the People are much delighted with this sort of Divertisement. There is also a very well-built Bridge, long and large: the River which passes under it, bathes a Meadow, on the Bank of which you see Allies of Trees, which form a most delicious Walk. Trade was heretofore considerable, but it is of late much diminisht. The best Castillan is here spoken; and the Men are naturally Souldiers, so that when the King has need of them, he finds here great Numbers, and better Men than elsewhere.

After Supper our Company set to Play, as heretofore: Don Sancho Sanniento was for yielding his place to any one, pretending ’twas his Right to Entertain me this Evening. I knew he had lately return’d from Sicily; I askt him, Whether he had been one of those who had help’d to Chastize those Rebellious People? ‘Alas, Madam,’ said he, ‘the Marquess de Las Navas was sufficient to punish them beyond what their Crime deserv’d: I was at Naples, in the design to pass into Flanders, where I have Relations of the same Name. The Marquess de Los Veles, Vice-Roy of Naples, engaged me to leave my first Project, and embark myself with the Marquess de Las Navas, whom the King sent into Sicily: We set Sail in two Vessels of Majorca, and arrived at Messina the sixth of January. Having sent no notice of his coming, and no body expecting it, he was not receiv’d with the Honours paid commonly to the Vice-Roys: But in truth, his Intentions were so cruel against these poor People, that his Entrance should have been made in Tears.

‘Scarcely was he arriv’d, but he clapt up the two Sheriffs in Prison, named Vicenzo Zuffo, and Don Diego: He put Spaniards in their Places; he rigorously abolisht the Colledge of Knights of the Star; and began to execute the Orders which Gonzaga had long receiv’d, and which he had eluded through Favour or Weakness. He immediately publisht an Order, by which the King chang’d all the Form of Government of Messina, depriv’d the Town of its Revenues, forbad its bearing for the future the Glorious Title of Exemplary, dissolved the Senate, and put into the place of six Sheriffs, six Officers, two of which should be Spaniards; that these Officers should not for the future appear in Publick with their Formalities; that they should no more be preceded by Drums and Trumpets, ride no more together in a Coach with four Horses, as they were wont; that they should sit henceforward on a plain Bench; should have no more Incense offered ’em in the Churches; go cloath’d after the Spanish Fashion; should Assemble on Publick Affairs in a Chamber of the Vice-Roy’s Palace; and have no longer any Jurisdiction on the Champian Country.

‘Every one was seized with such Consternation, as if he had been Thunder-struck; but their Sorrow was much increased on the fifth of the same Month, when the Camp Master-General went to the Town-house, and seized all their Charters, and Original Copies of their Priviledges, and made ’em be burnt publickly by the Hands of the common Hang-man. The Prince de Condro was afterwards apprehended, to the great grief of his Family, but particularly the Princess Eleonora, his Sister, whose Tears were not shed alone: This Princess is not above Eighteen; her Beauty and Wit are miraculous, which astonish those about her.’ Don Sancho’s Eyes grew red at the remembrance of this Princess, and I plainly perceiv’d Pity had not all the share in what he said; yet he continued on his Discourse to me of Messina.

‘The Vice-Roy,’ added he, ‘publisht an Order, by which all the Citizens were enjoyn’d, under penalty of ten Years Imprisonment, and five thousand Crowns Fine, to bring their Arms into his Palace. He at the same time caus’d the great Bell in the Town-house to be taken down, and beaten to pieces in his fight: He ordered all the Bells in the Cathedral to be melted, to make a Statue of the King of Spain. And the Prince of Condro’s Children were taken into Custody: But their Fear increased, when the Vice-Roy ordered D. V. Zuffo’s Head to be cut off. This Example of Severity Alarum’d all the People; and what appear’d most terrible, was, That in the late Troubles, some Families of Messinois having withdrawn themselves into several Parts, the Marquess de Liche, the Spanish Embassador at Rome, advised them, as a Friend, to return into their own Country, assuring them all was Quiet, and that a General Pardon was already publisht; and for their greater assurance, gave them Passports. These poor People (who had not taken up Arms, and being not of the number of the Revolters, knowing their Innocency, could never have imagin’d they should have been treated as Criminals) return’d to Messina; where they had scarcely landed, but the Joy they had of seeing themselves in their Native Country, and in the midst of their Friends, was sadly disturb’d, when they were seised on, and the next Morning, without any Quarter, or regard to Sex or Age, by the Vice-Roy’s Order, all hang’d. He afterwards sent to demolish the great Tower of Palermo; and the principal Citizens of it, remonstrating against the excessive Impositions on Corn, Silks, and other Commodities, the Marquess de las Navas sent them all to the Gallies, without being moved by the Tears of their Wives, and the need so many poor Children might have of their Fathers.

‘I must acknowledge,’ continued Don Sancho, ‘that my Nature is so averse to the Rigors every day exercis’d on these poor People, that I could not for all the World remain any longer at Messina. The Marquess de las Navas was for sending to Madrid, to inform the King of what he had done. I intreated him to charge me with this Commission; and in effect he consented, and gave me his Letters, which I have delivered to the King at Madrid; and at the same time my Intercessions for the Prince de Condro: And I presume my good Offices will not be wholly useless to him.’ ‘I am perswaded,’ said I to him, ‘this was the principal Motive of your Journey: I am no prying body, but methinks you are greatly concern’d for the Interests of this Family.’ ‘It’s true, Madam,’ continued he, ‘the Injustice done this Unfortunate Prince does sensibly affect me’: ‘Were he not Brother to the Princess Eleonora,’ said I to him, ‘perhaps you would not so much lay it to heart. But no more of this; I perceive this Remembrance afflicts you. Pray let me rather hear from you what is most remarkable in your Country.’ ‘Ah! Madam,’ cried he, ‘you insult over me; for you must needs know, that Galicia is so poor and mean a Countrey, that there’s no place for bragging; not but that the Town of St. James de Compostella is considerable enough; it is the Capital of the Province, and scarce one in Spain that’s superiour to it in Riches and Greatness: Its Archbishoprick is worth Seventy Thousand Crowns a Year, and the Chapter has as much; It stands in an agreeable Plain, surrounded with little Hills of moderate heighth; and it seems as if Nature had placed them there to defend the Town from those deadly Blasts which arise from other Mountains. Here is a University, fine Palaces, stately Churches, publick Places, and an Hospital, one of the most considerable, and best serv’d in Europe: It consists of two Courts of extraordinary greatness, with Fountains in the midst. Several Knights of St. James live in this Town; and the Metropolis, which is dedicated to this Saint, keeps his Body: It is extream stately, and prodigiously rich: It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb, as if Arms were struck one against another; and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss. His Figure is represented on the Altar, and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it, and put their Hats on his Head; for this is the chief part of the Ceremony: They have also another very singular one; they ascend the top of the Church, which is covered with great flat Stones; In this place stands a Cross of Iron, whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag, or Scrap of what they wear: They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it; and those who are not slender, are in danger of being bursten. And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious, that having omitted to do this, they have expresly return’d back again three or four hundred Leagues; for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations. Here is a French Chappel, of which great Care is taken; It is said, the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it. The Church which is under ground is a better than that above; there are stately Tombs, and Epitaphs of great Antiquity, which exercise the Wits of Travellers. The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile, and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty, instead of diminishing it. A Man of my Acquaintance, a great Searcher into Etymologies, assured me the Town of Compostella was so called, because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compostella. It is true,’ continued he, ‘that some People pretend it to be thus; but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries ’em further; for you are shew’d at Padron, near Compostella, an hollow Stone; and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv’d, after he had past so many Seas in it, which being of Stone, must have, without a signal Miracle, sunk to the bottom.’ ‘I suppose,’ said I to him, ‘you believe this to be most true.’ He smiled, and continued his Discourse: ‘I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia: They are called together every Year in the Month of October, and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen, are oblig’d to march; for should it happen that a Father, or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman, and those who are Officers should come to know it, they would condemn him who has so offended, to perpetual Imprisonment. There have been some Examples of this, but they are rare; for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas’d to see themselves Arm’d and treated as Cavalieros & de Nobles Soldados del Rey, that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this occasion. You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back; and the Stuff they wear, seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread: their Shooes are made of Cord; they wear no Stockings, yet every Man has his Peacock, or Dunghil-Cock’s Feather in his Cap, which is tied up behind, with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff; their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord, and ordinary without a Scabbard; the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order: And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy, where is the General Rendezvouz, it being a Frontier place to Portugal. There are three which lie thus, the above-mention’d, Cindud-Rodrigo, and Badajoz, but Tuy is the best guarded, because it is over-against Valentia, a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal, and which has been carefully fortifi’d: These two Towns are so near, that their Cannon will reach each other; and if the Portugaises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over, the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self; It stands on an Hill, whose lower part is wash’d by the River Minhio; it has good Ramparts, strong Walls, and good store of Artillery. It is here, I say, where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King’s Enemies, and in a strutting Bravery, declare, they do not fear ’em. Perhaps something of this may happen in time, for here are form’d as good Troops as in any other part of Spain. However, this is a great loss to the Kingdom, the whole Youth being thus taken up; for the Lands, for the most part lye untill’d, and on the side of St. James de Compostella, you wou’d think you saw a Wilderness; on that of the Ocean, the Country being better and more peopled, yields greater Profit, and all things necessary and convenient, as Oranges, Lemmons, and Pomgranates, several sorts of Fruits, and excellent Fish, especially Pilchards, more delicate than those which came from Royan to Bordeaux.

‘One of the most remarkable things, in my mind, in this Kingdom, is the Town of Doiense, one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring, and the Fruits of Autumn, by reason of several Springs of boiling Water, which warm the Air by their Exhalations; whil’st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters, standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain; so that you find in the space of one only Season, all those which compose the course of the Year.’

‘You say nothing,’ replied I to him, ‘of the marvellous Fountain, call’d Louzano.’ ‘Who have told you of it, Madam?’ answer’d he. ‘Persons that have seen it,’ added I. ‘You have been then told,’ continu’d he, ‘that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret, you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours; which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea, tho’ it be at twenty Leagues distance from it; that the greater the Heats are, the more Water it casts, that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice, and sometimes as hot as if it boil’d, there being no Natural Cause to be giv’n for it.’ ‘You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of,’ said I to him, ‘and this is doing me a great Pleasure, for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon.’ ‘I wish,’ replied he, ‘’twas not so late, I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain, and which perhaps you would gladly learn.’ ‘I leave you for to Night,’ said I to him, ‘but I hope before we come to Madrid, we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them.’ He very civilly made me a Promise; and the Play being ended, we bad one another good night.

When I would go to rest, I was led into a Gallery full of Beds, as you see in Hospitals: I said, this was ridiculous; and that needing only four, what occasion was there for shewing me forty, and to put me into such an open place to starve me? I was answer’d, This was the best place in the House, and I must take up with it. I caus’d my Bed to be made, when scarce was I laid down, but some body knockt softly at my Door; my Women opened it, and remained much surpriz’d to see the Master and Mistress followed by a dozen of sorry creatures, and so cloath’d that they were half naked. I drew my Curtain at the Noise they made, and opened more mine Eyes at the sight of this Noble Company. The Mistress drew near to me, and told me, These were honest Travellers, who were coming into the Beds which remained empty. ‘How, lie here?’ said I, ‘I believe you have lost your Senses.’ ‘I should have lost ’em indeed,’ replied she, ‘should I let so many Beds stand Empty. Either, Madam, you must pay for them, or these honest Gentlemen must lye in them.’ I cannot express my Rage to you; I was in the mind to send for Don Fernand and my Knights, who would have sooner made ’em pass through the Windows than through the Doors: But I considered this could not be done without some Disturbance, and therefore I came to Terms, and agreed to pay 20 _d._ for each Bed; they are hardly dearer at Fontainbleau when the Court is there. These Illustrious Dons, or, to speak better, Tatterdemalions, who had the Insolence to come into my Room, immediately withdrew, having made me several profound Reverences.

The next Morning I thought to have burst with laughter, tho’ twas at my Cost, when I discovered mine Hostess’s Trick to ruin me: For you must know in the first place, that these pretended Travellers were their Neighbours, and that they are accustomed to this Stratagem, when they see Strangers: But when I would have reckoned the Beds to pay for ’em, they were rowled all of ’em into the midst of the Gallery; there were divers wretched Troughs of Straw pull’d out, which were hardly good enough to entertain Dogs, yet I must pay for each 20 _d._ Four Pistoles ended our Dispute. I was not able to put my self in a Passion, such singularity did I find in this Management. I would not recount this little Accident to you, did it not serve to give you some insight into the Humour of this Nation.

We set out from Burgos very late, the Weather was so bad, and there had fall’n in the Night such great quantity of Rain, that I tarry’d there as long as I could, in expectation of its ceasing. In fine, I came to a Resolution, and ascended my Litter. I had not gotten far from the Town, but I repented of my leaving it; no Track cou’d be seen, especially on a very high steep Mountain, over which we must necessarily pass. One of our Mule-drivers, who went before, struck too far on the Edge of this Mountain, so that he fell with his Mule into a kind of Precipice, where he broke his Head, and put his Arm out of joynt; this being the famous Philip de St. Sebastian, the most intelligent of all his Profession, and who commonly carries Persons of Quality to Madrid; he was therefore much bemoaned; and we remain’d a great while before we could hale him out from the scurvy place where he had fall’n; Don Fernand was so compassionate as to let him have his Litter. The Night came speedily on us, and we could have comforted our selves, could we have return’d to Burgos, but it was impossible, the Ways were no less covered with Snow on that side, than all the rest; so that we put in at Madrigalesco, which has not above a dozen Houses, and I may say we were besieg’d without having any Enemies. This Adventure gave us some disturbance, tho’ we had brought Provisions with us for several Days. The best House of the Town was half uncovered; and I was scarce lodged there, when a venerable Old Man askt for me on the part of a Lady who was just arriv’d: He made me a Compliment, and told me, He was inform’d this was the only place where there was any tolerable Entertainment; and therefore intreated me to spare her some room. He added, She was a Person of Quality of Andalousia, was lately a Widow, and that he had the Honour to belong to her.

One of our Knights, named Don Esteve de Carjaval, who is of the same Country, fail’d not to demand her Name of the old Gentleman: He told him, she was the Marchioness de Los Rios. At this Name he turn’d towards me, and spake to me of her as of a Person whose Merit and Fortune were very considerable: I readily accepted of this good Company; She immediately came in her Litter, out of which she had not descended, having found no House where she could abide.

Her Dress seem’d to me very singular; had she not been so handsome as she was, she could never have appear’d in any sort tolerable: Her Gown and Petticoat was of black Serge, and over them a kind of Linnen Surplice, which reacht down lower than her Knees; the Sleeves were long, and strait in the Arm, which hung over her Hands: This Surplice was fastened to her gown, and being not pleated behind, it seem’d like a Bib: She wore on her Head a piece of Muslin, which covered her Face, and one would have taken it for a Religiose’s Hood; this covered her Neck, and reach’d down very low: There appear’d no Hair on her Head, they were all hid under this Muslin: She wore a great Mantle of black Taffaty, which covered her Heels; and over this Mantle she had an Hat, whose Brims were very large, fastened under her Chin with silken Twist. I was told they wear this but only when they travel.

This is the Habit of the Widows and Duenna’s, a Dress which is insupportable to my sight; and should one meet with a Woman in the Night thus cloath’d, one might be startled without Reproach; yet the Lady was very beautiful in this Unseemly Dress. They never leave it, unless they marry; and they are oblig’d to bewail the Death of an Husband, whom they could not endure when living.

I was inform’d they pass the first Year of their Mourning in a Chamber hung with Black, wherein there is not the least glimmering of Day-light to be seen; they sit cross-legg’d on a little Holland-Quilt. When this Year is ended, they retire into a Chamber hung with Gray: they must have no Pictures, nor Looking-Glasses, nor Cabinets, nor fine Tables, nor Plate, neither must they have any Diamonds, or wear any Colours: However modest they are, they must live so retired, that it must seem their Soul is already in the other World. This Constrant is the cause that several Ladies who are wealthy, and especially in rich Houshold-Goods, marry again to have the satisfaction of making use of them.

After the first Compliments, I inform’d my self from this mournful Widow where she was going; she told me, She had not for a long time seen a Friend of her Mother’s who was a Religious at Lashuelgas de Burgos, which is a famous Nunnery, wherein there is an hundred and fifty Nuns, most of ’em the Daughters of Princes, Dukes, and Titulado’s. She added, That the Abbess is Lady of fourteen large Towns, and above fifty other Places wherein she chuses Governors and Magistrates; that she is Superior of seventeen Convents; Collates to several Benefices, and disposes of twelve Commanderships in favour of whom she pleases. She told me she design’d to pass some time in this Monastery: ‘Can you, Madam,’ said I to her, ‘accustom yourself to so retired a Life as is that of a Convent?’ ‘It will be no hard matter,’ said she, ‘for I believe I see fewer People at my own House than I shall see there; and in effect these Religious have Liberty enough: They are commonly the handsomest young Women of the Family who are there; these enter therein so young, that they know not what they are made to leave, nor what they undertake at the Age of six or seven, and it may be sooner. They are caused to make Vows, when ’tis often the Father or Mother, or some near Relation, who pronounce them for ’em, whilst the little Sacrifice disports herself with Sugar-plums, and lets ’em dress her how they will: Yet the Bargain holds, there’s no unsaying it; however, they have every thing which can be expected in their Condition. There are at Madrid some whom they call the Ladies of St. James: they are properly Canonnesses, who make their Tryals like the Knights of this Order; they bear, like them, a Sword, made in form of a Cross, embroidered with Crimson Silk; they have ’em on their Scapularies and great Cloaks, which are white: These Ladies House is very stately; all who come to visit ’em enter without any difficulty; their Apartments are very fine, and every whit as well furnisht as if they were at large in the World; they enjoy great Pensions, and each of ’em has three or four Women to wait on them: It’s true, they never stir out, nor see their nearest Relations, but through several Grates. This perhaps would look horrid in another Country, but in Spain they are accustom’d to Confinement.

‘There are Convents where the Religious see more Cavaliers than the Women who live at large, neither are they less gallant: It is impossible for any to have more Gayety than they; and, as I have already told you, Madam, here are more Beauties than abroad; but it must be granted, there are several among them who are deeply sensible at their having been so soon sacrific’d; they think of the Pleasures which they have never tasted, as the only ones which can make this Life Happy. They pass theirs in a Condition worthy of Compassion, always telling you, they are there by Force; and that the Vows they are made to repeat at the Age of five or six Years, are to be regarded like Childrens Plays.’

‘Madam,’ said I to her, ‘it wou’d have been great pity, had your Relations design’d you for such a Life; and one may judge, in beholding you, that all the beautiful Spanish Ladies are not Religioses.’ ‘Alas, Madam,’ said she, in fetching a deep Sigh, ‘I know not what I wou’d be; it seems I am of a very odd Humor, not to be contented with my Fortune: but one has sometimes Uneasinesses which are unaccountable to Reason.’ In ending these words, she fastened her Eyes to the ground, and fell into such a deep fit of Musing, that I cou’d easily perceive something disturb’d her.

Whatever Curiosity I had to know the Subject, we had been so little together, that I dared not desire to be her Confident; but to draw her from the melancholy Posture she was in, I entreated her to tell me some News of the Court of Spain, seeing she came from Madrid. She did what she cou’d to recover herself: she then told me, There were great shews of Joy at Court on the Queen’s Birth-day: that the King had sent one of the Gentlemen of his Chamber to Toledo, to Compliment her from him: Yet these fine Appearances hindred not the Marquess de Mansera, the Queen’s Major Domo, from receiving Orders to retire twenty Leagues from the Court, which had greatly mortifi’d this Princess. She inform’d us, That the Fleet which carried Troops to Galicia, was unhappily cast away on the Coasts of Portugal. That the little Dutchess de Terra Nova, was to Espouse Don Nicolo Pignatelli, Prince de Monteleon, her Uncle. That the Marquess de Leganez had refused the Vice-royalty of Sardagnia, being in love with a fine Lady, whom he cou’d not find in his heart to leave. That Don Carlos de Omodei, Marquess d’ Almonazid, was dangerously ill, at his Disappointment of being admitted a Grandee of Spain, to which he pretended, having marry’d the Heiress of the House and Grandeurship of Castel Rodrigue; and that which most sensibly afflicted him, was, that Don Ariel de Gusman, this Lady’s first Husband, had enjoyed this Honour; so that he cou’d not but look on the Difficulties thrown in his way as a slighting of his Person: ‘In truth, Madam,’ said I to her, ‘I can hardly comprehend how a Man of sence, can with such eagerness pursue, and be so greatly dejected at a Disappointment of this Nature.’ ‘We are otherwise affected in Spain,’ replied the beautiful Widow, ‘and this Instance is a proof of it.’

Don Frederic de Cardonne, who greatly interested himself for the Duke de Medina Celi, askt her News of him: ‘The King,’ said she, ‘has lately made him President of the Indies. The Queen-Mother has wrote to the King, on the Report which runs, that he is about Marrying; that she is surpriz’d things are already gone so far, and he has not acquainted her with them. She adds in her Letter, She advised him in the mean time, whilst all things were ready for this Ceremony, to make a Journey to Catalonia and Arragon. Don John of Austria sufficiently understands the Necessity of this, and he presses the King to depart, to content these People, in promising by Oath, according as is customary to new Kings, to maintain all their ancient Priviledges.’ ‘Have then, Madam,’ said I to her, interrupting her, ‘the Arrogonois any other Priviledges than the Castillans?’ ‘Very particular ones,’ replied she, ‘and you being a Stranger, I believe you will be willing to let me inform you of them.’ Here’s what I learnt:

The Daughter of Count Julien, named Cava, was one of the most beautiful Ladies in the World: King Rodrigue became so passionately in love with her, that his Affection knowing no Bounds, transported him beyond all measure. The Father, who was then in Affrica, inform’d of the Outrage done his Daughter, who breath’d nothing but Revenge, treated with the Moors, and supplied ’em with the means to enter into Spain,[3] and to make there, for sundry Ages, all those Ravages set forth at large in History.

The Arragonois were the first who shook off the Yoak of these Barbarians; and finding no more among them any Princes of the Race of Gothish Kings, they agreed to Elect one, and cast their eyes on a Lord of the Country, call’d Garci Ximinex; but they being Masters, to impose Laws on him, and finding himself sufficiently Happy that he might Rule over them under any Condition, these People therefore confined him within narrow Bounds.

They agreed, That as soon as their Monarch shou’d break through any of their Laws, he shou’d immediately forfeit his Power, and they be at full liberty to chuse another, though he were a Pagan: and to hinder him from violating their Priviledges, and to defend themselves against him, they establisht a Soveraign Magistrate, whom they call’d the Justicia, whose Office was to observe the Conduct of the King, the Judges, and the People: but the Power of a Soveraign being likely to Awe a meer Particular, to Assure the Justicia in the Execution of his Office, they ordered, That he might not suffer either in his Person or Goods, but by a compleat Assembly of the States, which they call Las Cortes.

They moreover provided, That if the King shou’d Oppress any one of his Subjects, the great and considerable Men of the Kingdom might assemble themselves, and hinder his receiving any of his Revenues, till the Innocent was acquitted, and re-establisht in his former Rights. And to make Garci Ximinez timely sensible of the Power this Man had over him, they set him on a kind of a Throne, and made the King to kneel down bare headed before him, to receive from him his Oath of keeping their Priviledges. This Ceremony ended, they acknowledge him their Soveraign, but in as odd as disrespectful a Manner, for instead of promising him Fidelity and Obedience, they say to him, ‘We who are as good Men as yourself, we make you our King and Governour, on Condition you keep to us our Rights and Properties, otherwise we Disacknowledge you.’

The King, Don Pedro, in process of time coming to the Crown, rellisht this Custom, as unworthy of the Regal State; and it so greatly disgusted him, that by his Authority and Intreaties, and the Offers he made of bestowing several notable Priviledges on the Kingdom, he procured the Abolishment of this, in an Assembly of the States: he got this general Consent in Writing, which was presented to him. As soon as he had the Parchment, he drew out his Dagger, and pierced his Hand with it, saying, ‘’Twas fit a Law which gave Subjects the Liberty of chusing their Soveraign, should be Efaced with their Sovereign’s Bloud.’ His Statue is still seen in the Deputation-hall of Saragossa: he holds a Dagger in one Hand, and the Charter in the other. The late Kings have not been such Religious Observers of their Priviledges as the first.

But there is a Law still in force, and which is very singular, and this they call, ‘The Law of Manifestation’; which is, That if an Arragonois had Wrong done him in Judgment, in consigning 500 Crowns, he may bring his Cause before the Justicia, who is obliged, after an exact Perquisition, to punish him who has giv’n a wrong Sentence: And if he fails therein, the opprest Person may have Recourse to the States of the Kingdom, who Assemble and Nominate five Persons of their Body, which is to say, of the Prime Nobility, the Ecclesiasticks, the Gentry and Commonalty: they appoint three out of the first Rank, and two from each of the others. But it is observable, they choose the most Ignorant to Judge the most able Men in the Gown, whether to Disgrace ’em the more for their Fault, or, as they alledge, ‘That Justice should be so clear, that the very Plow-men, and those who understand the least, should discern it without the help of Oratory.’ It is likewise affirm’d, That the Judges tremble when they pronounce a Sentence, fearing lest it turn against themselves, to the loss of their Lives or Estates, should they commit the least Fault therein, either wilfully, or through Inadvertency. It were well if this Custom were observed in all Kingdoms: but this is rather to be wish’d than expected.

Yet what is no less singular, is, That Justice remains always Soveraign; and though the Unjust Judge be punish’d severely for his wrong Decree, yet it subsists in its full force, and is fully executed: If then any Unhappy Wretch be sentenced to Death, he is not spared, tho’ his Innocency be discovered, and made as clear as Noon-day; but his Judges are executed too before his Face; which, in my mind, is a poor Consolation. If the Judge accused, has justly perform’d his Office, the Plaintiff leaves the 500 Crowns which he had consign’d: But were he to lose an 100000 Crowns of Annual Revenue, by the Sentence he complains of, the Sentence or Decree remains good, and the Judge is only condemn’d to pay him likewise 500 Crowns; the rest of this Judge’s Estate is forfeited to the King: which is, in my Opinion, another Point of Injustice; for in fine, he ought, above all others, to have Recompense made him who suffers by a wrong Sentence.

These same People have another Custom, to distinguish by the Punishment the Crime committed: for Example, A Cavalier, who has kill’d another in Duel (for they are here strictly forbid), he has his Head cut off before; and he that has Assassinated, his is cut off behind. This is to distinguish him who has behaved himself like a brave Man, from him that kills you Treacherously.

She added, That to speak in general of the Arragonois, They have a Natural Pride, which is hard to be suppress’d: but likewise to do them Justice, there are people of brave Minds to be found among them; insomuch, that they are easily discern’d from all the rest of the King of Spain’s Subjects: That they have never wanted Great Men, from their first King to Ferdinand: That they counted such a great number of them, as would scarce be believ’d: However, they have greatly recommended themselves by their Valour and Conduct. That as to the rest, their Country was so little fruitful, that excepting some Valleys which were watered by Channels, whose Water came from the Ebre, the rest was so dry and sandy, that you meet with scarce any thing else but stony and parched up places: That Sarragossa is a great City, the Houses finer than at Madrid; the Publick Places adorn’d with Arches; that the Holy Street, where the Courses are run, is so long and large, as may make it pass for a great and vast place, having several great Mens Palaces on it; that of Castel-morato being one of the pleasantest: That the Vault of St. Francis’s Church was very curious, for being of extraordinary Largeness, yet ’tis upheld by no Pillars: That the City is not strong, but the Inhabitants so stout, that it needed no Walls; that it has never a Fountain, this being one of its greatest Defects: That the Ebre carried no Boats, the River being full of dangerous Rocks. As to the rest, the Archbishoprick was worth 60000 Crowns a year: That the Vice-Royalty brought in no Revenue, being a Place of Honour, fit only for great Lords to bear the Expence of it, to maintain their Rank, and keep the People under, who are Naturally Fierce and Imperious, not Affable to Strangers; and so little desirous of making Acquaintance, that they chuse rather to stay at Home alone all their Life-time, than stir out to procure Friendships: That here is a severe Inquisition, who have a stately Palace, and a most Rigid Court of Justice; Yet this does not hinder great Troops of Robbers, call’d Bandoleros, from Ravaging, and dispersing themselves over all Spain; who give no Quarter to Travellers, snatching up sometimes Women of Quality, whom they afterwards set at Ransom, for their Parents to Redeem; but when they are Handsome they keep them: And this is the greatest Misfortune can happen to ’em, being forced to spend their Days with the Worst of Men, who keep them in dreadful Caves, or carry them along with them on Horse-back, being so furiously jealous of ’em, that one of their Captains (having been lately set upon by Souldiers sent into the Mountains to seize on him) being mortally wounded, and having his Mistress with him, who was of the Marquess de Camaraza, a Grandee of Spain’s Family; When she saw him in this Condition, she thought only of making Use of this favourable Opportunity of saving her self; which he perceiving, dying, as he was, he catch’d hold of her Hair, and struck his Dagger into her Breast, Being not willing, said he, that another should possess a Treasure which had been so dear to him. And this is what himself acknowledg’d to the Souldiers who found him, and saw this sad Spectacle.

The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace; and I return’d her all due Thanks for the Favour she did me, in informing me of these Curiosities; and of which, perhaps without her, I might have been Ignorant all my Life. ‘I do not think, Madam,’ said she to me, ‘you owe me such Thanks; I rather fear the having deserved Reproaches for so long and tiresome a Conversation.’

I would not let her leave me to eat elsewhere; and I obliged her to lye with me, she having no Bed. So Civil and Courteous a Proceeding made her much my Friend: She assured me of this in such Affectionate Terms, that I could not doubt of it; for I must tell you, the Spanish Women are more Caressing than we, and are far more Kind and Tender to those they profess Friendship. In fine, I could not forbear telling her, ‘That if she had all the Kindness for me she made profession, she must be so complaisant, to inform me, What made her seem so melancholly? That I had heard her fetch deep Sighs in the Night, and appear’d very Restless and Disconsolate; That if she could find any Comfort in sharing her Grief with me, I offered my Service to her, as a most faithful Friend.’ She embraced me with great Affection, and told me without delay, she would immediately satisfie my Curiosity; which she did in these Terms:

‘Seeing you are desirous to know me, I must without disguising to you any thing, acknowledge my Weaknesses to you; and by my Sincerity and Open-heartedness, deserve a Curiosity as obliging as yours:

‘I come not of such a Family as may claim Nobility; my Father’s Name was Davila; he was only a Banker, but he was in good Credit, and was moderately Wealthy: We are of Seville, Capital of Andalousia, and we have ever dwelt there. My Mother knew the World, she saw many People of Quality, and having no Children but me, she took great care of my Education: It did not appear ill-bestowed on me; for I had the good Fortune to get the good Will of most that saw me.

‘We had two Neighbours who came often to our House, who were very welcome both to my Father and Mother: Their Condition and Age were in no sort alike; One was the Marquess de Los Rios, a Person Wealthy and Noble; he was a Widower, and well advanced in years: the other was the Son of a great Merchant, who traded to the Indies; he was Young and Handsome, he had Wit, and a very graceful Behaviour; his Name was Mendez: He was not long before he fell passionately in Love with me; so that he omitted nothing which might please me, and gain my Affections.

‘He was in all places where he knew I was to pass; he spent whole Nights under my Windows, to sing Verses which he had composed and set to my Praise, which he had very well accompany’d with his Harp.

‘But seeing his Attendancies had not all the Effect he expected, and having past some time in this manner, without daring to mention his Affection to me, he at length resolv’d to make use of the first occasion to acquaint me with it. I avoided him ever since I had a Conversation with one of my Friends, who had more Experience and Knowledge of the World than I: I had felt, that Mendez’s Company gave me Joy, and that my Heart had an Emotion for him, which it had not for others: That when his Affairs, or our Visits hindred him from seeing me, I grew restless; and loving this young Woman, above others, and being as dear to her, she observ’d I was not so free and gay as I was wont, and that my Eyes were sometimes attentively fixed on Mendez. One Day when she rally’d with me about it, I said to her very innocently, “My dear Henrietta, define to me the Sentiments I have for Mendez: I know not whether I ought to be afraid of them, and whether I ought not to defend my self from them. I feel I know not what sort of Trouble and Pleasure arising in my Breast.” She began to laugh, she embraced me, and said to me, “My dear Heart, you are in Love.” “Who, I in Love?” reply’d I, in amaze: “You joke with me; I neither am, nor will be in Love.” “This depends not always on us,” continued she, with a more serious Air, “our Stars decide this before our Hearts. But in earnest, what is it so much startles you? Mendez is in a Condition equal to yours; he deserves well, a good comely Man; and if his Affairs go on with the same Success as they have done hitherto, you may live very happily with him.” “And whence should I learn,” reply’d I, interrupting her, “that he will be happy with me, and that he so much as thinks this?” “O, take my Word for it,” answer’d she, “whatever he has done has its Designs; for Men are not wont to pass Nights under Windows, and the Days in following a Person for whom they have nothing but Indifferency.”

‘After some other Discourse of this Nature, she left me, and I resolv’d, maugre the Repugnance I felt in me, to give Mendez no opportunity of speaking to me in particular.

‘But one Night as I was walking in the Garden, he came towards me: I was perplext to see my self alone with him; and he had the opportunity of observing it on my Countenance, and in the manner after which I receiv’d him. This could not divert him from the design he had of entertaining me: “How Happy am I Madam,” said he, “to find you alone? But do I call my self Happy! Perhaps I know not what I say: for it may be you will not receive a Secret with which I would entrust you.” “I am as yet so young,” said I to him, blushing, “that I would advise you to say nothing to me, unless you would have me impart it to my Companions.” “Alas,” continued he, “should I tell you, I Adore you; that all my Happiness depends on the Inclinations you have towards me: That I cannot live without some Certainty, that I may one day please you; will you tell this to your Companions?” “No,” said I to him, in great perplexity, “I would look on this Confidence as a Railery; and not believing it my self, I would not hazard its being left to be believ’d by others.”

‘We were interrupted as I ended these words; and he appear’d to me not over-content with the Answer I made him; and a while after he found an opportunity to reproach me with it.

‘I could not but give a favourable Ear to the Inclinations I had towards him; every thing he told me seem’d to me to have its particular Gracefulness: And it was no hard matter for him to perswade me, that he lov’d me above all things in the World.

‘In the mean time, the Marquess de Los Rios took such a liking to me, and my Person and Behaviour ran so deeply in his Thoughts, that he wholly applied himself to please me. He was very nice and cautious; he could not resolve with himself to owe me wholly to my Parents authority: He well knew they would receive as an Honour the Intentions he had for me; but he was for gaining my Consent before he demanded theirs.

‘In this Design he said all to me he thought was like to take with me. I answer’d him I should always think it an indispensable Duty to obey my Father: yet our Ages were so different, that I told him, I thought ’twere better he left off thinking of me; that I should have an everlasting Acknowledgment for the advantageous Intentions he had for me; and therefore I would esteem him, tho I could not love him. Having heard what I said, he was some time without speaking, and immediately taking up a very generous Resolution: “Lovely Mariana,” says he, “you might have made me the happiest Man in the World; and if you were ambitious, I had wherewith to satisfie you: But you refuse me, and I desire to be anothers: I consent to it; I love you too well to be in suspence, whether you are to be satisfied or I; I therefore wholly sacrifice my Happiness to you, and leave you for ever.” In ending these Words he left me, and appear’d so afflicted, that I could not forbear being concern’d.