Chapter XIII: Part II: =85.=--Launching a Ship (2)

The topmasts are sometimes fidded before rigging, to avoid the greater strain upon the top tackles. If a topmast has only one sheave (like a mizen topmast), it is a good precaution to reeve a hawser through the fid-hole, and haul it taut, as the mast goes aloft; unreeving it only when the mast is high enough for fidding, or previous to the squares entering the trestle-trees.

=115.=--PLACING TOPMAST RIGGING.

Tar the masthead in the wake of the rigging; send the bolsters aloft, and stop them. After the bolsters are on, put over first the mast-head pendants--then the span for ginn blocks; then follows the straps, with thimble in for standing part of the tyes--next, first pair of shrouds on the starboard side, then the larboard; and so on, until all are over; then lash the breast backstay (if single); if a pair, put them over the same as a shroud; next the after backstays; lash the stays, if fitted for it, if not, put them over the same as lower stays, with _mousings_. The collars of the stays go between the cross-trees, and lash over the after one. Some prefer chain spans. The most approved method is an iron plate, with a hook on each end, which lays across the trestle-trees.

=116.=--TO SEIZE-IN THE SISTER-BLOCKS.

There is a score on each side to take the shroud, and three scores for seizing--one on each end, and one between both sheaves. They are seized-in the length of the hanging block, from the eye-seizing, to prevent any risk of the reef-tackle and lift being jammed between the hanging blocks and the rigging--one seizing is passed round the shrouds, above the block, another below the block; and a small seizing put on each score, round the block and shrouds. The topsail-lift leads through the lower sheave, and reef tackle through the upper one.

The larboard block should be seized-in once the diameter of the shroud lower than the other, as, if both are seized alike (the starboard shroud going over first) they would not be square when the rigging is placed.

=117.=--BACKSTAYS, (BREAST,)

When in pairs, are fitted with eyes, the same as the shrouds, and served sufficiently far down to be square with the service of the topmast shrouds. They are also parceled and served in the way of the lower yards, when braced up. When there is only one backstay it is secured round the mast-head with a lashing passed round it, through an eye spliced in;[7] they are set up to a treble block in the channels. Through these blocks a fall is rove, the standing part being spliced into the strap of the double block, and then led from the treble block through a fair leader in the side, in on deck.

_Note._--I have seen ships without breast backstays on any mast,
and they carried sail equally well with those who had them; one
was the _Independence razee_: her breast backstays were converted
into standing ones, and set up a little further aft, or immediately
forward of the proper standing backstays.

Breast backstays are generally pulled up in stays when the ship is
head to wind, having a quarter-watch of topmen stationed by them. If
they should be set up too taut, which may be the case, especially
when the rigging is slack, they are likely to snap and endanger the
mast by the sudden jerk; if not set up enough, they can be of no use,
and are only an additional weight on the mast-heads, and a useless
expenditure of rope. Their being set up to bear an equal strain with
the rigging, will not occur with the greatest care once in a year,
and I consider them particularly injurious on top-gallant-masts. A
good stout _standing backstay_ is the main support.

[7] Some are fitted with a cut splice.

=118.=--STANDING AFTER-BACKSTAYS,

When in pairs, are fitted with an eye the same as topmost rigging. When an odd one on each side, they are fitted with a horse shoe. They are now fitted the same size as lower rigging.

The backstays are set up with a lanyard rove through dead-eyes, the same as shrouds, having service in the wake of the lower yards and tops.

=119.=--MAIN TOPMAST STAY

Is fitted of the same size as the standing backstay. A large clump block is strapped round the foremast head, over the eyes of the rigging, and immediately over the square hole in the after part of the trestle-trees. Through this block the main topmast stay is rove down, through the trestle-trees--has a thimble turned in the end, lanyard spliced and rove through it, and set up to a span shackle in the deck, abaft the foremast, for the purpose; or a large bull’s-eye hooked to an eye-bolt, and set up on the end.

The spring stay leads through a block strapped round the foremast above the cat-harpens, and sets up in the fore-top.

=120.=--MIZEN TOPMAST STAY

Is rove through a thimble strapped round the mainmast-head, over the eyes of the rigging; and when set up, is secured to its own part with round seizings. If preferred, it can be set up with a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard rove through it; but this is not necessary. When the stays are well stretched, the thimbles can be spliced in, but it is not a good plan; for, should it be necessary to unreeve, the splice must be drawn, which will injure the rope. I have seen them fitted in this way, and pointed over for neatness,--but prefer their being turned in, and the end pointed or capped.

_Note._--There is no mizen topmast spring-stay.

=121.=--GETTING THE TOPMAST CAPS ON.

The girtline blocks should be lashed well up to the topmast head. Overhaul down before all the foremost ends, and secure them to the foremost bolts in the cap; stop them to the centre ones, and also to the square hole in the after part; sway the cap up;--when well up, cut the after stops, sway higher, and the cap can be easily placed by the man aloft, and girtlines cast off.

If the cap should be very heavy, use a derrick; a capstan bar will answer the purpose.

_Note._--Ship the capshore the same time you place the cap.

=122.=--MAST-HEAD MAN ROPES, &c., &c.

A piece of rope has an eye spliced in one end, and several overhanded knots made on the bight, at equal distances from each other. They should be long enough to reach a third down the topmast rigging, and seized round the mast-head close to the cap; one on each side is sufficient. They are absolutely necessary in large ships, and should be on all.

I have seen them in some very neat ships; and, when it is recollected the small space the men have for their feet when they get near the crosstrees, and the long mast-head, to get on the cap, it is certainly worth while to sacrifice something in the way of appearance to ensure the safety of a man’s life.

Some large ships have ladders with two steps, set up to the eyes of the topmast rigging, from the cap; also, spans and grab-ropes fitted, to go from the swifters abreast of the cap, which will be found very convenient for the topmen, when exercising sails. These may appear trifling matters to some, but ships fitted with them are generally ahead, when exercising in a squadron.

=123.=--TOP TACKLE PENDANTS, &c.

When cut to the required length, a thimble, _well parceled_, is spliced into one end, and the other pointed, with a becket in it. There are two to the fore, and two to the main topmasts. In the heel of each topmast there is a dumb sheave;--take one pendant and reeve it through the top block, hooked to the cap, through the trestle-trees, through the dumb sheave, or _heel-block_, through an eye-bolt in the foremost part of the cap, on the opposite side to the block; take two half-hitches, and secure the end to its own part, with a spun-yarn seizing; hook the top tackle block to the thimble in the pendant, and the lower one, to a bolt in the deck for the purpose; reeve the fall through a leader, and bring it to the capstan; heave well taut, and unreeve the hawser by which the mast was formerly hove up for rigging.

The other pendant reeves through the other top-block, through the sheave hole in the topmast, and clenched to the other eye-bolt in the fore corner of the cap; hook the blocks, reeve and bring the fall to the capstan, taking the other off, and manning it well. When no capstan, both falls must be well-manned by hand.

_Top Tackle Falls and Blocks._--The upper block is double, strapped,
which is made into a hook; the lower is also double, and should be
iron-strapped, having a swivel; a single one is hooked near the
double as a leading block; the fall is rove; the standing part
hitched, or clenched, over the block; they are sometimes spliced in,
and some have beckets.

To hook the double block, clap a single tail-block well up on the
pendant, reeve a whip through it, hitch one end of the whip through
one of the sheaves of the double block, hoist it up, and hook it to
the pendant.

=124.=--PREPARING TO FID THE TOPMASTS.

Capshores should be stepped and secured, luff tackles clapped on all the stays and backstays. Lower blocks should not be hooked on to the lanyards, but to bolts in the deck, and eye-bolts or straps in the chains; capstans and falls manned, topmast rigging quite clear, and hove over the sides of the tops, and the topmasts hove up and fidded, _mast stayed_, _rigging set up_, _&c._

=125.=--RATTLING THE LOWER AND TOPMAST RIGGING.

Cat-harpen legs and futtock shrouds are seized-on and set up; topmast stayed, rigging and backstays set up, lanyards secured as lower rigging,--then commence rattling down.

Girt the rigging with three fore and aft swifters--one by the shear rail, and the others at equal distances, as follows:--Make one end of a small rope fast round the foremost shroud, take a turn round the next, then the third, and so on, until all are taken in; then back the same way, and half-hitch it round the first. The swifter should be just taut, and not so as to bring the shrouds together,--the object being to make the ratlines a little tauter when let go. Sometimes swifters are not used, but the ratlines are never so square, or look well. Care should be taken that they are not too taut, for, when let go, all the strain will come on the seizing in the eyes of the ratlines, and they will be constantly snapping. Two swifters on each side are sufficient for the topmast rigging.

_Spar the rigging down_, with spare spars, such as studding-sail yards, boat’s oars, boat’s masts, handspikes, or anything _light_ that will answer, and seize them to the shrouds on the outside, at equal distances, leaving sufficient space for three or four ratlines between each spar.

A coil of small well-stretched rope is placed on each side of the deck, two or three on a side when required to be done quick. Splice an eye in one end of the rattling stuff, seize it to the first shroud, and then commence clove-hitching on the second, and so on to the after, but one; then measure the distance from that to the last, cut it off, and splice an eye in the end. Beat the _hitches_ well round each shroud, seize the end to the foremost one, and also the other eye to the after one, and rattle up, taking the shear of the rails. The hitches are formed on the outside, and at equal distances; in three or four places take a ratline to the after swifter;--these are called _shear ratlines_.

When it is necessary to rattle quick, take three ends up at a time. Fifteen inches is a good distance between the ratlines, and their places should be chalked off all the way up and down before commencing. Each man employed should have a measure within his reach, and care should be taken to make the ratlines on one side correspond in a parallel direction with those of the other. This can only be seen from the outside of the ship. Make the hitches neat, and the eyes small; few things tend more to a snug appearance.

If the rigging is to be blacked, after rattling down, it is best to leave the spars on until that is done, taking them off as you black down.

=126.=--FUTTOCK-STAVES IN TOPMAST RIGGING

Are iron bolts parceled and served; are seized to the shrouds the length of the _hounds_, down on the inside; seizings passed as in lower rigging.

_Cat-harpen legs on topmast rigging._--Take the length from the
starboard foremost shroud round the mast, and to the after one on
the same side; get a piece of rope this length, splice an eye in
each end, worm, parcel, and serve it. There are two on each mast.
Seize the foremost end to the foremost shroud and futtock stave, take
it round the mast and seize it to the after one; secure one to the
larboard side in the same manner.

I have seen them go from the foremost starboard shroud, straight to
the after larboard one, crossing abaft the mast. They are also fitted
to set up with thimbles and a lanyard, abaft the mast. When this is
done, both eyes are seized to the futtock staves on the starboard
side, a thimble seized in the bight, and set up abaft the mast to
the larboard one, with a lanyard fitted in the same way. (Vessels
with chain topsail ties are fitted with iron _bands_, to go round the
mast, with eyes for the topgallant rigging to lead through.)

=127.=--TO RIG THE JIB-BOOM.

Hoist the jib-boom on board by the hawser or tackle, which was left at the foremast head when getting on board the fore topmast, run the end out on the bowsprit, pointing it through the stays and bowsprit cap. Reeve the heel-rope, and sway the jib-boom out a foot or two beyond the cap. Reeve the jib-stay through the hanks, _traveller if required_, and then through the inner sheave-hole, in the boom end, martingale and necklace, and turn a double block in the inner end; reeve the lanyard or fall through this, and a single block bolted to the bows. To the traveler seize the jib downhaul blocks and traveling guys; tar the boom end, put a grommet over, to which seize the fore topgallant bowline blocks, one on each side.

_Foot ropes._--There is one on each side of the jib-boom. They should
be long enough when in their place to allow a man to stand navel-high
along the boom, and are fitted as follows: take a piece of rope long
enough to make both; cut it in the centre and splice one end into the
other with a cut splice, forming an eye to fit the jib-boom end. Four
or five overhand knots are taken at equal distances on the rope, from
the eye, according to the length of the foot-rope; the knots are for
the purpose of preventing the men from slipping. In each end splice a
small eye, large enough to take a lashing, by which they are set up
to bolts in the bowsprit cap. An eye is sometimes made by taking a
round turn round the boom end, and two seizings passed. Also with a
span, horse-shoe fashion, and neatly covered with canvass.

_Note._--Turk’s-heads worked through the strands, may be substituted
for knots on the foot-ropes, if time will permit.

=128.=--JIB-BOOM MARTINGALE STAY

Is a short rope, with an eye in each end to fit the jib-boom, and end of the dolphin-striker. The eyes are well served, and covered with canvass or leather. The martingale is wormed, and a small twine seizing (snaked) put on round the worming at equal distances between the eyes; three, or four, according to the length, which must depend on the way the dolphin-striker is intended to stand, or rake. It looks best when perpendicular to cap or jackstaff.

Chain is sometimes used for the purpose, as also for back-ropes; and is found to answer well, it not being liable to stretch.

=129.=--JIB-BOOM GUYS.

There is one pair on each side; an eye is made to fit the boom end by passing a round seizing, when in their place; both ends are rove through thimbles on each yard-arm of spritsail yard (when crossed). Then brought in and both ends set up to bull’s eyes in the bow, or fitted with tackles.

_Placing the rigging on the jib-boom._--First, the foot-ropes; next,
the martingale stay, and guys. In some ships, an iron grummet is
fitted with an eye on top and one underneath, neatly leathered, and
put over the boom-end first. The martingale stay is hooked to the
underneath eye, the jib-tack and downhaul to the upper one.

=130.=--MARTINGALE BACK-ROPES

Are pendants, middled and served in the centre, the round of the dolphin striker, both parts crossed and secured with a throat seizing. The service should be long enough to take in the seizing. In the ends splice a single or double block; another single one is strapped into a bolt in the bow for the purpose, or fitted in a strap with a hook and thimble (hook moused). A gun tackle, or luff-purchase, is then rove, the standing part of the fall spliced round the pendant, in after end of the block, rove through the one in the bow, over the head rails, back through the one in the pendant, and through a fair leading sheave, in the forecastle bulwark. These falls, after being pulled up, are racked together outside the bulwark. If belayed on the forecastle, they should be seized to their next part, so as not to be let go by mistake.

=131.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON A DOLPHIN-STRIKER.

Back-ropes first, and next the martingale; below this rigging, in the end of the dolphin-striker, are two or three sheaves, and one close above it, large enough to admit the jib-stay, which is rove through it; flying jib-stay in the next sheave, and flying martingale stay under all, which will show two ropes leading from each boom end, to the dolphin-striker.

=132.=--GETTING THE JIB-BOOM OUT.

The flying jib-boom iron is driven on; the heel rope manned (if rigged), and the boom hauled out. The heel strap is placed in a score in the heel for the purpose, and both bights lashed together; then another lashing passed round the strap, between the boom and the bowsprit, and the strap well frapped together. The heel being well secured, set up the back ropes and guys.

_Note._--Rigging to be placed same as jib-boom.

=133.=--SENDING UP TOPGALLANT MASTS.

The topgallant top blocks being hooked, we will suppose the long mast rope is to be rove, from the starboard side of the topmast-cap; take the end through the square hole in the fore part of the trestle-trees, half-hitch it through the fid-hole, and stop it round the _hounds_, and the royal mast-head; send the hauling part through lubber’s hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck. The topgallant rigging is fitted on a sheet-iron cylinder or funnel, attached to the jack cross-trees (by an order from the former Navy Commissioners), leathered and painted on the outside, and tarred on the inside; put on the grommet or strap for the main royal stay[8] to reeve through, then put on the topgallant and flying jib-stays, starboard and larboard shrouds, breast and standing backstays, and secure them over the funnel; overhaul the girtlines down on deck, and bend them on to the rigging, around all parts, about the length of the mast-head below the jack, and a good stop through the funnel; hoist the funnel up and place it, with the rigging on, over the hole in the cap, and take the stays forward and reeve them.

Man the mast-ropes and “sway away,” having men stationed to bear off and place the rigging or funnel. When pointed through the funnel, place the royal rigging and truck, reeve the signal halyards, and _attach_ the conductor; “sway higher,” land the mast on the top or forepart of lower mast-cap, and, if required, reeve the short mast rope; reeve the pointed end through a block hooked to the cap on the larboard side, or the sheave, then through the trestle-trees, through the sheave-hole in the topgallant-mast, up through the trestle-trees, and secure the end to the foremost bolt in the cap, with two half-hitches, and seize the end; to the thimble in the other end, hook the double block of a burton; hook the single one to a strap round the trestle-trees; send the burton fall on deck through lubber’s hole, and lead it through a single leading block, and haul it taut; unreeve the long mast rope, and fid the mast; when the fid is in, the mast rope can be unrove, if wished.

Reeve the ends of the shrouds through the horns of the cross-trees, between the topmast rigging, over the futtock staves, and turn a thimble in each end; strap another round a futtock plate, inside the dead-eyes of top-mast rigging; if there is none placed in the top, splice a lanyard into that in each shroud, and take two or three turns through each, stay the mast, and set the rigging and backstays up.

In setting up the backstays the single block of the jigger, which is hooked to the thimble, is hooked to a blackwall hitch, in the lanyard, and when set up, expend the lanyard through the thimbles, and seize the ends. On both shrouds on each side clap on small jiggers, hook the double blocks to straps on the shrouds, the single to Blackwall hitches in the lanyards, and set up and secure the same as the backstays.

The fore topgallant stay reeves through the outer sheave-hole in the jib-boom, and through a bull’s-eye hooked to the bows, and when set up, is seized to its own part.

The main topgallant stay is rove through the middle sheave in the after chock of the fore topmast crosstrees, or through a block strapped around the fore mast-head, and set up in the fore top.

The mizen topgallant stay is rove through a bull’s-eye in the after part of the main cap, and set up in the main top.

[8] Suppose this to be the fore topgallant-mast.

=134.=--ROYAL RIGGING.

There is one breast, and after backstay on each side, seized as the after backstays on topgallant masts. The breast backstay or _shroud_, is pulled up with a gun tackle purchase;[9] the after leg has a thimble turned in, and sets up in the after part of the chains, with a lanyard.

_Royal stays._--As there is no funnel (although it would be a
great advantage to have one), splice an eye in the stay to fit the
mast-head, cover it, and serve over the splice. It goes on next to
the grommet, then the shroud and backstays, spanned together.

The fore royal stay is rove through the outer sheave-hole in the
flying jib-boom end, and pulled up through a fair leader on the
forecastle.

The main royal stay is rove through a thimble stopped around the
foretop gallant mast-head, through another strapped round the eye of
a shroud, and when set up is seized to its own part.

Mizen royal stay reeves through a sheave in the after part of the
main topmast trestle-trees, through a thimble strapped round the eye
of a main shroud, and seized to its own part.

[9] Royal-backstays are set up with a jigger to their respective
places in the channels. The shrouds are set up in the top
breast-backstay-fashion.

=135.=--SHORT AND LONG TOPGALLANT MAST-ROPES.

_Short mast ropes_ have a thimble spliced in one end, and the other end pointed. They are rove when the mast is rigged, and are used for fidding. They should be sufficiently long (when the mast is landed on the top or cap), after being rove through the block and sheave in the heel of the mast, and clenched to the cap, to allow the thimble to hang clear of the cat-harpen legs.

If the topsail-yard is crossed, the mast is landed on it, for rigging; if the topgallant-mast should be too long to allow its being landed on the yard, the mast rope must be lengthened accordingly.

_Long mast ropes._--Ropes are often fitted for the purpose; but the
topgallant yard rope is generally used. I have seen them fitted as
follows, and they answered very well:--

The rope is rove, and stopped to the topgallant-masthead, and royal
sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the upper stop, to hitch to the
bolt, before cutting the stops. To prevent the rope _slipping_, rack
both parts together above the sheave-hole in the heel of the mast.

=136.=--TO RIG THE FLYING JIB-BOOM.

Sway it on board and point it through the iron at the jib-boom end. A tail block is put on the neck of the iron, or on the jib-stay, close down to the boom. Through this block reeve the heel rope, one end taken in on the forecastle, and the other bent to the heel of the boom. A rope is bent to the heel of the boom to serve as a guy; sway the boom out a foot or two for rigging. Put over the foot ropes, fitted as the jib-boom, the inner ends seized to the jib-boom end, inside the iron. The martingale, when single, is secured round the boom end, clenched, spliced, or with a running eye, rove through a sheave in the dolphin-striker, and in on the forecastle, on the opposite side to the royal stay. When double, a single block is strapped round the boom end, and the standing part spliced round the dolphin-striker; hauling part as when single.

_Guys._--One on each side spliced into each other, forming a
cut-splice to fit the boom end. The other end rove through thimbles,
strapped round the spritsail yard, through fair leaders in the
bulwarks, and pulled up on the forecastle, or set up on the bows.

Man the heel rope and get the boom out; the heel is placed in a
step formed on the fore side of the bowsprit cap, for the purpose,
and secured with a lashing, rove through the end, and passed round
the jib-boom. Set up the martingale, stay the fore topgallant and
royal mast, (fore and aft,) by the stays and backstays; and if the
spritsail yard is crossed, reeve the guys, turn in thimbles, and set
them up.

=137.=--SPRITSAIL LIFTS

Are single; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm; splices served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through the bull’s-eye in the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are sometimes strapped into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. Bolts are often driven into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts led through; when this is done, they are generally set up there with lanyards and thimbles, spliced into the end, which answers every purpose.

=138.=--SPRITSAIL BRACES.

A single block is strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the foremast on each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the yard arm; the other is rove through the single block, on collar of fore-stay, and another single block is spliced into the end; a luff tackle purchase is rove with it, and a double block on the deck, one sheave answering for a leading one.

They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is getting out of date.

=139.=--STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRITSAIL YARDS.

The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being placed round the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a round seizing passed between the thimble and the yard; the splices laying in the upper side of the score in the thimbles. Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long splice, in the strap for neatness.

The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair with the yard for the jib guys to lead through; if single, they would stand fore and aft.

=140.=--CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD.

The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows:

Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay; to it hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a hawser; reeve it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quarter of the spritsail yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along to the larboard quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard-arm. Overhaul down the lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping the larboard yard-arm under the bowsprit; when clear on the larboard side, put over the brace, or block, and lift, and haul out; when nearly out, or before clear of the head rails, put over the starboard brace or block and lift; haul on the hawser, starboard lift, and brace, and cast off the stops. When sufficiently out, pass the parrel, _take a turn or hold well on the end_; hook the tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser and unreeve it; reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the bows; set all up taut and square the yard.

=141.=--TWO HALF SPRITSAIL YARDS.

Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are secured to the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the bowsprit, with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in any required direction. When the half spritsail yard is carried it is rigged as follows:--

The fore guys are made of well stretched rope, and equal in strength to the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial eye to fit the jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be wormed with small rope, parceled and served, or covered in the eyes; four stranded rope is preferable, it being not so liable to stretch as three.

The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to fit the yard arm, and a thimble spliced into the other. They are the same size as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner. If made on purpose, and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the bight with a round seizing.

The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only shorter; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be given to the yard arm, which should never be less than the spritsail yard, when well braced up, or, in other words, _canted_.

The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, next, the foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set up to a bolt by the cat-head, well down; the lower, to an eye-bolt in each side of the cutwater, well out.

For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed with twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on purpose, can have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope walk. Some fit forward and after guys all in one.

=142.=--WHISKERS.

Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves in them for the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore chains, the same as when rove through the spritsail yard. This plan is much in use in small vessels, but the boom is supported almost entirely by the martingale, as the guys being considerably above the boom, and its always _topping up_, when the sail is set on a wind, the more wind the greater the strain on the martingale; and should the guys be not carefully pulled up, the boom must depend on the martingale entirely for support.

=143.=--TO GET ON BOARD AND RIG LOWER YARDS.

Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the slings of the yard, and get them nearly up and down; clap selvagees on the quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As it comes on board, cut the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, and bousing on the other, until the yard is athwart-ships; place chocks in the hammock nettings for the yard to rest on; slue them fair, and lash them; come up the tackles, cast off the hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of the yard to prevent its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit a saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass, and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, and fit the straps for the preventer slings, &c., &c., &c.

_Note._--The iron sling-bands are now used instead of the _old
fashioned_ D thimble.

Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the service
for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. (See
Rigging Table.)

=144.=--TRUSS STRAPS.

A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a double strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and served over; the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, the splice laying in the score. The strap should be long enough to go round the yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together on the fore side. There are two on each yard. One thimble is seized inside the truss pendant, the other outside; and one in the round of the pendant higher up than the other.

=145.=--TRUSS PENDANTS[10]

Are wormed, parceled, and served; an eye is spliced in one end large enough to take the pendant when rove through it; in the other an artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single block for truss fall. The pendant should be rove through the small eye before the artificial one is made, boused well taut round the yard, the eye being kept underneath, and one pendant higher than the other. Reeve the upper pendant through the upper thimble, and lower pendant through lower thimble. Being rove in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of each other.

_Hide rope_ is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss is now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclusive. (_New regulation_).

[10] For length and size, see Rigging Table.

=146.=--QUARTER BLOCKS--LOWER YARDS.

Quarter or topsail sheet blocks are large single blocks, with double straps; the block seized in with a round seizing, and secured round the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a rose-lashing passed through both bights on the top of the yard. Before the lashing is passed, the block should be hove up with heavers, and the eyes of the strap brought as close together as possible. This is done with a good strand passed through both, and hove up with a Spanish windlass. Vessels carrying chain topsail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the iron bands in the slings of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging Table).

=147.=--CLEW GARNET BLOCKS

Are single; seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in each end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the same as the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some ships have all the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater.

_Note._-Iron bound blocks are allowed to all classes of vessels in
the navy, by the new regulation, for this purpose.

=148.=--LIFT BLOCKS--LOWER YARDS

Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing; the strap being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the block is seized in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice should lay in the score of the block, or upper side; but a grummet will answer equally as well, and look snugger.

=149.=--FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS.

The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard, (excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced in one end; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The splicing served in the way of chafing (one-third) midship part.

_Stirrups_ are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope; eyes spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts; splices served over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and made into plait, and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, having a small piece of hide or leather placed under their heads before being driven into the yard. Going over the jackstay bolts is preferable; and some seize it to the neck of the bolt, or staple. They hang on the after side of all yards.

Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, and seized to the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, especially in vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better opportunity to stand.

=150.=--JACKSTAYS.--BENDING AND REEFING.

Take a piece of rope of the proper size,[11] cut off the length of the yard, splice an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, sufficiently taut to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a thimble in each end; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a-half, marl down, and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, (which should always be the case when the sail is reefed to one), the large one, before splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the eye-bolts on the yard for the purpose; this is the reefing jackstay. The bending one is fitted the same way, and after being put over the yard arm, is seized to the neck of the bolts on the after side.

This plan has been generally adopted, as it was found much easier to reef, than when fitted with only one jackstay; there being always difficulty and delay in getting the points between the jackstay and the yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only one jackstay, it is rove through the eye-bolts.

_Note._--Iron bending jackstays are now allowed for all vessels in
the navy.

[11] For the length and size of rope, see Rigging Table.

=151.=--BRACE BLOCKS.--LOWER YARDS.

The straps should be fitted sufficiently taut to require being driven on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one within the other, called _lock thimbles_. Take a piece of rope, of the proper size, and cut it long enough to go round one thimble and the yard, when spliced together; worm, parcel and serve it, and pass a round seizing round this strap, close to the thimble. Grommet straps are preferable, if time will permit.

The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap take a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends together; worm, parcel, and serve it; reeve it through the thimble already strapped, and pass both parts round the score of the other thimble; then place both bights in the scores in the brace block, keeping the splice in the after end of the block; pass a round seizing between the block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as in a double strap.

_Cross-jack brace-blocks_ are single, and strapped the same as lower ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in the main rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. When reeving the cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is clinched, spliced, or half-hitched, and the end seized, just below the block; then rove through the block on the yard, through the inside sheave in double block, and through a fair leading sheave in a rack, in the side or a leading block. I have seen blocks strapped into bolts on the main-mast, for the brace and bowline, which answered well. The brace block should be put on the yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast backstays, when braced up.

_Note._--These braces should be well _below_ the yard, as it always
_tops up_ on the wind, which slacks the weather leech; this is partly
the reason a mizen-topsail never stands well.

=152.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS.

Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the topsail sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps; if the rigging is all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed on each side; if not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. I have seen them both ways, but inside is preferable.

Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the wake of the rigging, first jackstay; if two, the bending one, and set it up amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes; after going over the yard arm, and rove through the stirrups, they are lashed together, with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and are secured with a good seizing to the strap of quarter block. Then the brace, and lift blocks. Rolling tackle straps on the inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft burton straps on the outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard.

If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put over before the jackstay is rove.

The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard tackle straps; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the yard-arm, are put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen-topsail sheets, on the forward side of the yard.

=153.=--GETTING UP JEER-BLOCKS, AND REEVING JEERS.

Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap. Send the two foremost ends through lubber’s hole down on deck; bend them through the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, and seize the end. Stop them along each leg of the strap, the larboard whip to the larboard leg, and the starboard whip to the starboard leg; then stop both legs together with a seizing of spun-yarn in the bights--the hauling part of the whips being through lubber’s hole and through a leading block on deck; man them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of the top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. Then cut the upper stops, on the whips; take a turn and pass the lashing in the bight, securing each end to their next part. When secured, let go, and take off the whips.

_Reeving jeers._--The standing part is clenched round the strap of
the upper block, rove through the one on the yard, up through another
sheave in upper block, and so on, until all rove full. The hauling
part is rove through a leading sheave, in fore or main bitts, or
through leading blocks. When heaving up, they are either brought to
the capstan, or manned by hand.

The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they can be
got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few ships are seen
to carry their jeers up in their proper places.

=154.=--LOWER LIFT BLOCKS

Are double; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the main or fore cap; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow side toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or horn, an eye is turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes being turned, I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the crescent and cap, and secured underneath with a nut; a thimble is also put in the eye-bolt, and the blocks strapped in.

The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can be fitted as the fore or main, or (a chalk) abaft the mast-head, if preferred, for neatness.

=155.=--REEVING LOWER LIFTS.

Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the other end up and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double block in the fore or main cap, then through the block on the yard, through the other sheave in the double block, and through lubber’s hole on deck; well up this part, splice a lizard for jigger tackle, or use tails selvageed on the end. The upper block of the jigger can be spliced or turned in to the lift, if preferred.

The cross jack lifts go over the yard arms with an eye spliced in the end to fit them. The other end is rove through the block at the cap, and is set up with two thimbles and a lanyard in the top; one thimble being turned into the end, the other strapped to the eye of one of the lower shrouds.

=156.=--MAIN BRACES--ON BUMKIN, &c.

A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seizing crossed both ways; the strap is then put over an iron outrigger, or bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The standing part of the brace being parceled, is rove through another bolt in the bumkin, and spliced into it or clenched; the other end rove through the block on the yard arm, from out, in through the block in the bumkin, and through a sheave in the bulwarks (abaft), for the purpose.

Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of single ones, and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead of one, both ends of the brace rove, and led in-board--_a great facility in working ship_.

=157.=--FORE BRACES

Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the main stay, below the splice; the other end taken forward and rove from in, out, through the block on the yard, through a single block strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a thimble in it, close up to the trestle-trees; then rove from forward aft, through a sheave in the main fife-rail.

The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on the main stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. Some have a hole bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead of clove-hitching it around the main stay.

=158.=--CROSSING THE LOWER YARDS.

The jeers being rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the pendants around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the yard clear of the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man the lifts and jeer falls, “sway away,” and when the yard comes abreast of the futtock staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, over all, frap all parts together, and cover all with canvass; reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses, and square the yard by the lifts and braces.

=159.=--TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS.

A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through which a hawser is rove; overhaul it down forward and hitch it to the slings of the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it on board. Cast off the hawser, middle the yard and prepare it for rigging.

=160.=--RIGGING TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.)

The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through the eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midships with a lanyard and thimble spliced in.

Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as follows:--splice the lanyard into the eye in the end; take it over the yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the eye; again back round the yard on the fore side, through the eye, and back the same way, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Then take a half-hitch from the lower edge of the eye, round all parts of the lashing; pass it round before; reeve through the eye on the upper side, take two half-hitches round all, and secure the end.

Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into _straps_ round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they must have double straps, and secured round the yard, on the upper foremost quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single blocks, two on each yard.

Quarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured in the same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having them fitted in this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant sheets, and topsail clewlines need not be unrove, which must be the case if rope-strapped. If rope-strapped they are seized into a single strap, and lashed on top of the yard with a rose-lashing.

_Parrel._--Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other; the
long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard on each
side; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the long leg
on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are wormed, parceled,
and served; both marled together and covered with leather. A round
seizing is passed around both, close to the eye of the short leg, on
each side. The long leg is taken round the yard, brought round on the
fore side, and secured to the short leg with a lashing of small rope,
passed through both eyes. The other eyes are lashed together when the
yard is across.

Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main yard.

Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, which
is on the neck of the pacific-iron,[12] it has an eye spliced in the
other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the same as a foot
rope, just inside the brace block, two or three feet, according to
the length of the yard. They should be long enough to allow a man to
stand on them to pass an earing, &c. They are sometimes fitted to
lower and top-gallant yards, for the convenience of reefing, &c.

Jewel-blocks are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a
thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for the
Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the yard arm. Others fit them
with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron.

_Straps._--Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long
enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing passed
between the yard and thimble,--this is called a rolling tackle
strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in the
same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to; but a selvagee strap
is generally used for that purpose.

[12] Is what the boom-iron ships on.

=161.=--THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD

Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks are on the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced into bolts in the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. There is seldom more than one tye-block on this yard, and no jewel blocks.

=162.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON TOPSAIL YARDS.

Tar the yard arms; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and lift block; if no lift block, the lift; Flemish horses, and jewel-blocks. The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear of the cap, when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go on, and a small cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two feet on each yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of the yard. Also reefing cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift.

=163.=--CROSSING THE TOPSAIL YARDS.

Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks; send one end down before all, the other through lubber’s hole, and through a leading block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch the hawser round the slings of the yard; stop it along the larboard yard-arm, if got up on the starboard side; if got up on the larboard side, the contrary. Overhaul well down to main or fore rigging, the starboard lifts and braces; the larboard into the top, and stop them ready for rigging. Man the hawser, and “sway away.” When the upper yard arm is clear of the top, put over the brace and lift, (or block,) and “sway higher;” rig the lower yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then cast off the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up, take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing; bouse well up on the starboard or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the stops being cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; square the yard by braces and lifts, and cast off and unreeve the hawser.

_Note._--In large ships the lifts and brace blocks are generally
placed on the yard arms before the yard is sent aloft. The braces are
rove when the yard goes up. I would also recommend double yard ropes
in heavy ships in crossing topsail yards; also to use the burtons.

=164.=--FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HALLIARDS.