Chapter II: Part 2

Twenty-sixth row—knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, plain.

Twenty-seventh row—knit 12, pearl 3, plain.

Twenty-eighth row—knit 13, slip 1, take 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over. This finishes the leaf, and ought to be 28 stitches; the other half of the square is in ribs, decreasing at the beginning of every row.

Twenty-ninth row—pearl, then a plain row, then pearl a row, plain a row, plain another row, pearl. Continue thus in lengthway ribs of 3, until you have decreased to one stitch. Join the squares so that 4 laurel leaves meet in the centre.

_Maltese Pattern._

Strutt’s knitting-cotton No. 6, and pins No. 16.

This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it must be knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the stitches quite tight.

When your squares are done, sew them together at the plain part, at the beginning, where the increasings were made. They ought to make a perfect Maltese cross. Cast on 1 stitch and increase every row. Knit until you have 27 stitches on your needle. This completes the first division.

Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder.

Thirtieth row—make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat from *.

Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest.

Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Do the 33rd and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2nd division is done.

Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from*. Knit the last stitch.

Thirty-seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.

Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.

Fortieth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. Pearl the last stitch.

Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Forty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.

Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 together, knit the rest.

Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.

Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the needle. Repeat alternately.

Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest.

Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest.

Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.

Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth.

Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 2 pearl, according to the pattern; always decreasing at the beginning. In the last row of this division you knit every stitch. You ought to have 27 stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knitting.

It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue ribbon round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, and bring it out more clearly.

_Canadian Cloud._

Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool.

Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards. Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides. Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish off with a large tassel, made in the following way:—Double a skein of white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel.

_Rose-bud Pattern._

Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton.

Cast on 19 for the pattern, and two extra stitches, to have a plain one at the beginning and end of every row.

First row—knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, put the cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl, take 2 together, knit 1, pearl 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 1, put cotton over, knit the last stitch.

Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl.

Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain; put the cotton over the needle, 1 plain; put cotton over, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton over, 1 plain cotton over, the last plain.

Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl plain, pearl plain, pearl 5, knit 2, plain pearl.

Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, knit 3, put cotton over, knit the last.

Sixth row—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 1, knit the last.

Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 5, cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, put cotton over the needle, knit 5 plain, cotton over.

Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last plain.

Repeat from the 1st row again.

This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacassars, or baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in stripes of plain knitting, in wool.

_Another Pretty Border._

With Strutt’s knitting-cotton cast on 54 and knit a plain row. First row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *.

Second row—pearl.

Third row—like the first.

Fourth row—pearl.

Fifth row—like the first.

Sixth row—plain knitting.

Seventh row—pearl.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

Begin again from the 1st row.

_Arrow Pattern in Stripes._

(VERY EASY.)

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to the width you require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the needle and knit 6 plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit 2 together. The rest plain. Every row alike.

_Cable Knitting._

This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or stockings in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, &c. in coarser.

It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you require for the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain.

Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round the needle, knit 4. Repeat to the end of the row.

Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.

Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, pass the wool back to its proper place, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl 1. Now take the next 2 stitches on a third needle, and keep them on the right side of your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit off the 2 on the third needle.

Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.

Begin again from the 2nd row.

If you desire your cable broader you need only add on a few more stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you would have to slip 4 on to the third needle.

It makes quite as handsome a couvrette as the one on page 37, and costs about the same price. If 6 instead of 12-thread fleece is used, it is of course much cheaper and smaller.

_Hood Pattern._—Any number of stitches divisible by 2.

First row—knit 2 together, thread forward. Repeat.

Second row—thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Pearl the last 2 together. Do the next row like the 1st.

Fourth row—pearl 1, * thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat from *.

Fifth row—knit 1, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from *.

Sixth row—like the 4th.

Seventh row—like the 1st. Finish by knitting. Then begin again at the 4th row.

_Pretty Pattern, which forms a deep Scallop._—Cast on 12 for each pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times.

Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately, until the knitting is long enough.

_Open Pattern, for Antimacassar._—Make 1, slip 1, pearl 2 together, make 2, slip 1, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Every row is alike.

_Net Pattern._—Any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. Slip 1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat.

_Large Holes._—Cast on in eights.

First row—knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1; knit 1, pass the slipped over; knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 1, knit the first part of this stitch and pearl the second, pearl 2, knit the first, pearl the second part, pearl 1. Repeat.

Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over; * knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat from *.

Fourth row—knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2; knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2. Repeat.

_Lattice Pattern._

This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or more colours, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter cast on in white petticoat yarn 110 stitches on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when finished you wish it larger put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an antimacassar cast on 1 stitch with fleecy wool and coarse bone pins. Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of every row, until you have 22. (This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches at the beginning and end of every row to form a border: these must always be knitted plain. There must be an even number of stitches, 22, 28, 34, according to the width required.)

First row—knit the 22 stitches plain.

Second row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool three times round the needle. Repeat from *.

Third row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches, and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter run off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches plainly. Repeat from *.

This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as it merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, and then knitting these six afterwards.

Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2nd row.

When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match the commencement, and finish off the points with tassels.

The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different pattern, only you must remember to make the points, by beginning with one stitch and then increasing up to the requisite number, decreasing in the same manner at the end.

* * * * *

_Fancy Stitches._

All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast on two extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the beginning and end of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. Always work one or two rows plain for a foundation.

_Pearl Pattern._—Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row—pearl 1, slip 1. Repeat.

Third row—slip 1, pearl 1. Repeat.

Go back to the 1st row.

_Rain Pattern._—14 stitches are required for each pattern. 1st row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat.

_Open Pattern._ 1st row—knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread forward. Repeat.

Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.

Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.

Seventh row—knit 2 together *. Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat from *. Then go back to the 1st row.

_Square Pattern, with reversed Holes._—Cast on 10 for each pattern and two over, slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate row is 5 plain, 5 pearl.

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 3, pearl 5.

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 2, pearl 5.

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 1, pearl 5.

Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, pearl 5.

Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward.

Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain.

Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1.

Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2.

Fifteenth row—pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3.

_Leaf Pattern._—7 stitches for each pattern.

First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat.

Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward. Repeat.

Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.

Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. Repeat.

Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

The next row pearled. Recommence from first row.

_Honeycomb._—Small holes. Cast on 6 for each pattern.

First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle twice, pearl 2 together. Repeat.

Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. Repeat.

_Another Pattern._—Cast on 8 for each.

First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 6. Repeat.

_Brioche._—Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36, according to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, knit 2 together, slip 1. Repeat from *.

_Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks._—5 stitches for each pattern.

First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 together, thread over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat.

Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat.

Fourth row—like the second.

_Very pretty little Pattern._—First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—Pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat these rows alternately.

_Another._—Cast on six for each pattern.

First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately.

_Another._—Cast on 8 for each pattern.

First row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2. Repeat. Every other row is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, pearl 2.

Third row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat.

Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.

By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration can be made by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the position of knitted, pearled, and slipped stitches, and will doubtless be able to invent many more equally pretty patterns for themselves.

_High Bodice, to cost 1s. 3d._

This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins scarlet merino and pins No. 5, or Shetland wool and pins No. 7.

Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows.

Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round the needle), knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 16.

Fourteenth row—Plain knitting.

Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 17.

Sixteenth row—Plain knitting.

Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 18.

Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have done 30 rows with holes and 30 alternate plain rows.

Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest still on the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on those 60 for 32 rows.

Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain.

Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the end of this row by taking 2 together.

Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows; you must have 39 stitches on your needle. Cast off; this part is for the shoulder.

Cast off 16 stitches under the arm.

For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knitting; then 38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end of each row. Now cast off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 under the other arm. Now take the remaining 60 stitches for the second front, and do 32 rows as on the other side. Reduce for the neck in the same manner, by casting off 5 at the 32nd row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate row for 32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches.

Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and sleeves (1 treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain round the former.

If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs of 3 and 3 the desired length.

The following diagram will render the explanations easier:—

A good plan to prevent the front part from stretching too much is, at every 10th row to leave the last 10 stitches before the end unknitted.

This pattern is for an ordinary figure, but after one trial the knitter will find it can be altered to any size.

_Baby’s Jacket._

Pins No. 9, and fleecy or fingering-wool.

Cast on 36, knit 5 plain rows.

Sixth row—knit 4, make 1, knit the remainder. The next row plain.

Eighth row—knit 5, make 1, the rest plain. Continue in this way to make holes each time one stitch further from the edge until 13 holes are done. Then do 6 rows, decreasing once in every row, at the 6th from the edge, on the side where the holes are: this part goes under the arm. Now cast it off, leaving 32 stitches on the needle for the chest; knit these 32 for 22 rows, and then decrease (at the opposite side to where you cast off) for 20 rows, thus making 10 decreasings; knit 3 plain rows and cast off. Do another piece in the same way, and for the back cast on 22 and knit 5 plain rows: this part is for the neck.

Sixth row—knit 4, increase; knit to within 4 of the end, and increase again; knit the remaining 4.

Seventh row—plain knitting.

Do these alternately for 26 rows until you have 48 stitches; knit 16 rows; then knit 1, take 2 together, take 2 together, make 1; plain to within 5 of the end where you make 1, take 2 together, 2 together again, knit the last. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows alternately 12 times, then do 24 plain rows and cast off.

For the neck, pick up about 40 stitches in scarlet and do 4 rows of ribbed knitting. Pick up 100 for the waist and do 8 rows plain, also with scarlet, and 2 rows up the front. Finish off with large buttons and elastic loops, and either knit 4 rows (like the neck) round the sleeves, or put long ones. For the latter cast on 40 stitches and knit 7 inches. Rib 20 rows in scarlet for the wrist.

_Child’s Gaiter, to cost 1s. 2d._

Three needles, No. 11 or 12, and 2 oz. brown Berlin wool.

Cast on 60 (for a very small child 54 will do), knit 3, pearl 3, for 24 rows. Now do plain knitting for 12 rows, then decrease at the beginning and end of the row. Continue plain knitting, but you must decrease every five rows. When six decreasings are done go on knitting until 78 rows are done.

Seventy-ninth row—knit 21 stitches, take the next 18 for the instep on a third pin and knit backwards and forwards, decreasing at the beginning and end after the first 2 rows. When 18 rows are done cast off.

Sew up the leg, and take up the rest of the stitches for the heel. Do 10 rows, decreasing at the beginning and end of every row. Cast off.

_Round Sofa-cushion._

This can be worked in shades, or in any two colours which contrast well.

Berlin and pins No. 14 may be used, casting on 54 stitches. This is rather a small size; to make it larger use coarser wool, and pins to correspond.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—the rest of the cushion is done in Brioche stitch; leave the last 3 stitches unknitted, turn and go on with the Brioche stitch.

Fourth row—leave the last 6 unknitted and turn.

Sixth row—leave the last 9 unknitted, and so on, 3 more every time you get to the end of the row.

When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next shade and knit the whole row. The next row like the 2nd.

This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. When large enough sew it up and do a second in the same way. Make a round pillow lined with feathers, and put between the knitting, which must be sewn together like a silk pincushion. Draw in the centre, which may be finished off with an ornamental button; the edges can be crocheted or left plain, as preferred.

These cushions used to be very fashionable at one time, although they are seldom seen now. However, fashions change so quickly that they may, perhaps, be used again.

_Knee-cap._

These are very comfortable for people who are at all rheumatic.

Cast on 29 stitches with Berlin wool, knit 14, bring the wool forward, knit the rest. Continue this until 28 rows are done. Then knit 32 rows without increasing. Begin to decrease where you took the wool forward at the 14th stitch by knitting 2 together. Do 28 rows to correspond with the other side; have 29 stitches on your pin, the same as you began with. Cast off, and sew the ends together.

The size of knee-caps must be regulated by the pins, and also by the number of stitches used. Many people consider them better when quite plain, without either increasing or decreasing.

_Baby’s Hood._

Pins No. 9 and Berlin, or any other soft wool.

Cast on 60, and do 1 plain row. Then do Hood pattern, page 50, for 5 rows; then 6 rows of plain knitting. Do the rest in any fancy stitch. When the knitting is 4 inches deep do 2 plain rows, 1 pearled, and cast off.

Cast on 22 stitches for the crown, do 1 plain row.

Second row—knit 1, thread over, take 2 together. Repeat; 6 more plain rows, and then any fancy stitch. When 3 inches are done knit a row, decreasing at the beginning and end of the row. Pearl the next, decreasing in the same way. Do 5 more rows in this manner, and cast off. Now sew the crown and head parts together, gathering the fulness at the top, and not at the sides.

Take up 74 stitches for the curtain, or neck part, and do 3 rows of alternate knitting and pearling; let the plain part come on the right side.

In the second row increase after every 2 stitches, so as to have about 110 altogether. When you have done 3 rows do any open pattern for 2 inches, and cast off. Edge the hood all round with a simple crochet edging in pink wool, and then ribbon round the neck.

These hoods are very useful in grey wool for poor people.

* * * * *

London: Printed by JOHN STRANGEWAYS, Castle St. Leicester Sq.

* * * * *

_PRICE LIST OF WOOLS AND YARNS_

Sold by HAIG AND VINCE, 209 OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W.

* * * * *

PER LB.
s. d. s. d.
Charity Wheeling Yarn 3 6 to 4 0
Best Scotch Wheeling Yarn, 6½d. & 7½d. per skein 4 3 ” 4 9
Best Scotch Fingering Yarn 6 0 ” 7 0
Scotch Berlin Fingering 7 6 ” 8 6
Merino Yarn, 4½d. per skein 10 6 ” 12 6
Petticoat Yarn, 9d. per skein 6 0 ” 7 0
Andalusian, 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 15 0
Shetland Wool, 10d. per oz 11 6 ” 15 0
Pyrenees ditto — ” —
Berlin Wool, Single or Double, 7d. to 11d. per oz. 8 6 ” 12 6
Fleece Wool in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12 threads 6 6 ” 7 9
Lady Betty Wool, 2, 3, and 4 thread,
9d. and 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 12 6
Angola Yarn, 2½d. per skein 6 0 —
Scotch Knitting Cotton 3 9 —

* * * * *

_All patterns in The Lady’s Knitting-Book have been successfully worked in the above Wools._

* * * * *

[Transcriber’s Note—the following changes have been made to this text:

Page 14: 12 to 11—“as on page 11”.]

End of Project Gutenberg's The Lady's Knitting-Book, by Elvina M. Corbould