Chapter I: Preface

In the spring of 1883 my husband was appointed to the command of the cavalry brigade in Transylvania, composed of two hussar regiments, stationed respectively at Hermanstadt and Kronstadt—a very welcome nomination, as gratifying a long-cherished wish of mine to visit that part of the Austrian empire known as the Land beyond the Forest.

The two years spent in Transylvania were among the most agreeable of sixteen years’ acquaintance with Austrian military life; and I shall always look back to this time as to something quaint and exceptional, totally different from all previous and subsequent experiences.

Much interested in the wild beauty of the country, the strange admixture of races by which it is peopled, and their curious and varied folk-lore, I recorded some of my impressions in short, independent papers, of which three were published in _Blackwood’s Magazine_, one in the _Nineteenth Century_, and one in the _Contemporary Review_. It was only after I had left the country that, being desirous of preserving these sketches in more convenient form, I began rearranging the matter for publication; but the task of retracing my Transylvanian experiences was so pleasant that it led me on far beyond my original intention. One reminiscence awoke another, one chapter gave rise to a second; and so, instead of a small volume, as had been at first contemplated, my manuscript almost unconsciously developed to its present dimensions.

When the work was completed, the idea of illustrating it occurred to me: but this was a far more difficult matter; for, though offering a perfect treasure-mine to artists, Transylvania has not as yet received from them the attention it deserves; and had it not been for obliging assistance from several quarters, I should have been debarred the satisfaction of elucidating some of my descriptions by appropriate sketches.

In this matter my thanks are greatly due to Herr Emil Sigerus, who was good enough to place at my disposal the blocks of engravings designed by himself, and belonging to the Transylvania Carpathian Society, of which he is the secretary. Likewise to Madame Kamilla Asboth, for permission to copy her life-like and characteristic photographs of Saxons, Roumanians, and gypsies.

I would also at this place acknowledge the extreme courtesy with which every question of mine regarding Transylvania people and customs has been responded to by various kind acquaintances, and if some parts of my work do not meet with their entire approval, let them here take the assurance that my remarks were prompted by no unfriendly spirit, and that in each and every case I have endeavored to judge impartially according to my lights.

EMILY DE LASZOWSKA-GERARD.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. INTRODUCTORY 1

II. HISTORICAL 6

III. POLITICAL 11

IV. ARRIVAL IN TRANSYLVANIA—FIRST IMPRESSIONS 14

V. SAXON HISTORICAL FEAST—LEGEND 25

VI. THE SAXONS: CHARACTER—EDUCATION—RELIGION 31

VII. SAXON VILLAGES 39

VIII. SAXON INTERIORS—CHARACTER 50

IX. SAXON CHURCHES AND SIEGES 62

X. THE SAXON VILLAGE PASTOR 71

XI. THE SAXON BROTHERHOODS—NEIGHBORHOODS AND VILLAGE HANN 79

XII. THE SAXONS: DRESS—SPINNING AND DANCING 85

XIII. THE SAXONS: BETROTHAL 94

XIV. THE SAXONS: MARRIAGE 101

XV. THE SAXONS: BIRTH AND INFANCY 111

XVI. THE SAXONS: DEATH AND BURIAL 117

XVII. THE ROUMANIANS: THEIR ORIGIN 122

XVIII. THE ROUMANIANS: THEIR RELIGION, POPAS, AND CHURCHES 125

XIX. THE ROUMANIANS: THEIR CHARACTER 132

XX. ROUMANIAN LIFE 139

XXI. ROUMANIAN MARRIAGE AND MORALITY 146

XXII. THE ROUMANIANS: DANCING, SONGS, MUSIC, STORIES,
AND PROVERBS 151

XXIII. ROUMANIAN POETRY 158

XXIV. THE ROUMANIANS: NATIONALITY AND ATROCITIES 173

XXV. THE ROUMANIANS: DEATH AND BURIAL—VAMPIRES AND WERE-WOLVES 180

XXVI. ROUMANIAN SUPERSTITION: DAYS AND HOURS 188

XXVII. ROUMANIAN SUPERSTITION—CONTINUED: ANIMALS, WEATHER,
MIXED SUPERSTITIONS, SPIRITS, SHADOWS, ETC. 196

XXVIII. SAXON SUPERSTITION: REMEDIES, WITCHES, WEATHER-MAKERS 207

XXIX. SAXON SUPERSTITION—CONTINUED: ANIMALS, PLANTS, DAYS 212

XXX. SAXON CUSTOMS AND DRAMAS 218

XXXI. BURIED TREASURES 229

XXXII. THE TZIGANES: LISZT AND LENAU 236

XXXIII. THE TZIGANES: THEIR LIFE AND OCCUPATIONS 242

XXXIV. THE TZIGANES: HUMOR, PROVERBS, RELIGION, AND MORALITY 253

XXXV. THE GYPSY FORTUNE-TELLER 260

XXXVI. THE TZIGANE MUSICIAN 265

XXXVII. GYPSY POETRY 273

XXXVIII. THE SZEKLERS AND ARMENIANS 279

XXXIX. FRONTIER REGIMENTS 288

XL. WOLVES, BEARS, AND OTHER ANIMALS 292

XLI. A ROUMANIAN VILLAGE 299

XLII. A GYPSY CAMP 306

XLIII. THE BRUCKENTHALS 309

XLIV. STILL-LIFE AT HERMANSTADT—A TRANSYLVANIAN CRANFORD 317

XLV. FIRE AND BLOOD—THE HERMANSTADT MURDER 326

XLVI. THE KLAUSENBURG CARNIVAL 331

XLVII. JOURNEY FROM HERMANSTADT TO KRONSTADT 339

XLVIII. KRONSTADT 348

XLIX. SINAÏA 357

L. UP THE MOUNTAINS 364

LI. THE BULEA SEE 372

LII. THE WIENERWALD—A DIGRESSION 377

LIII. A WEEK IN THE PINE REGION 380

LIV. LA DUS AND BISTRA 388

LV. A NIGHT IN THE STINA 394

LVI. FAREWELL TO TRANSYLVANIA—THE ENCHANTED GARDEN 399

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Old Town Gate at Hermanstadt (Elisabeth Thor) _Frontispiece_

Saxon Burgher in Olden Times 9

The Thorda Spalt 19

Old Fortress-tower on the Ramparts at Hermanstadt 23

Mounted Peasants, from the Historical Procession 28

Saxon Peasant House 40

Old Town Gate at Hermanstadt (on the Heltau side) 43

Michelsberg 47

Saxon Peasant at Home 51

Saxon Embroidery 53

Saxon Embroidery and Pottery 55

Fortified Saxon Church 63

Ruined Abbey of Kerz 70

Saxon Pastor in Full Dress 73

Saxon Peasant going to Work 84

Dressing for the Dance 93

Saxon Betrothed Couple 97

Archbishop Schaguna 131

Roumanian Costumes 141

Roumanian Women 143

Saxon Girl in Full Dress 221

Gypsy Type 237

A Gypsy Tinker 245

Basket-maker 247

Bear-driver 249

Gypsy Girl 258

Gypsy Mother and Child 261

Gypsy Musicians 269

Szekler Peasant 279

The Rothenthurm Pass 291

The Bruckenthal Palace 310

Baron Samuel Bruckenthal 315

Street at Hermanstadt 319

Schässburg 341

Castle of Törzburg 347

King Matthias Corvinus 355

Castle Pelesch at Sinaïa 359

The Negoi 365

The Pine Valley 381

The Cavern Convent, Skit la Jalomitza 399

Castle Vajda Hunyad before its restoration 401

MAP OF TRANSYLVANIA _At end_

THE LAND BEYOND THE FOREST.