Chapter IX: On Column in Southern China

A camp on the British frontier—Fears of outbreaks in Canton—The
Black Flags—Alarm in Hong Kong—General Gaselee’s troops diverted
to Hong Kong and Shanghai—His authority among the Allies weakened
in consequence—Wild rumours in Canton—The reform party in the
south—The Triads—Rebellion in the Kwang‐tung province—Admiral
Ho—Troops despatched from Hong Kong to guard the frontier—The
Frontier Field Force—Its composition—The departure of the column—A
picturesque voyage—An Imperial Chinese Customs gunboat—The Samchun
River—War junks—Our first camp—Admiral Ho’s army—Consternation
among the Chinese troops—They march away—No official maps of the
Hinterland—A Customs station—Britishers in danger—Chinese‐made
modern guns—A false alarm—A phantom battle—Chinese fireworks—A
smart trick at the storming of the Peiyang Arsenal—A visit
to Samchun—A game of bluff—Taking tea with a mandarin—Round
the town—Cockroaches as a luxury—A Yankee Chinaman—A grateful
escort—Terrified Chinese soldiers—An official visit to a
mandarin—Southern Chinese soldiers—The Imperial troops in the
north—A real alarm—A night raid—A disappointment
_pages_ 202‐230

CHAPTER X

IN THE PORTUGUESE COLONY OF MACAO

Early history of Macao—Its decay—A source of danger to Hong
Kong—Fleet of the Hong Kong, Canton, and Macao Steamboat
Company—The _Heungshan_ and its passengers—Guarding against
piracy—Macao from the sea—An awkward Chinaman—The Boa Vista
Hotel—View over the city—The Praia Grande—Around the peninsula—In
the Public Gardens—Administration of Macao—A night alarm—A
mutinous regiment—Portuguese and Macaese society—A visit to
the Governor—An adventure with the police—An arrest—Insolent
treatment of British subjects—Redress—An arrest in Japan—Chinese
gambling‐houses—_Fan‐tan_—The sights of Macao
_pages_ 231‐255

CHAPTER XI

A GLIMPSE OF CANTON

Hostility of Canton to foreigners—The scare in 1900—History
of Canton’s relations with the outer world—Its capture and
occupation by the English and French—The foreign settlement—The
river journey from Hong Kong to Canton—River scenes at Canton—A
floating city—Description of Canton—The streets—A visit to the
shops—Feather workers—Ivory carvers—Embroidery shops—Temple of
the Five Hundred Genii—Marco Polo among the gods—The prison—The
_cangue_—Insolent prisoners—Chinese punishments—Death of a Thousand
Cuts—The Temple of Horrors—The Examination Hall—Shameen—The English
and French concessions—Foreign gunboats—The trade of Canton—French
designs—Energy of their consuls—Our weak forbearance—An attack on
Canton by river and by land
_pages_ 256‐278