Chapter I: Preface

It was at Buenos Ayres that I received the intelligence of the death of my beloved mother. Shortly before her decease she had expressed the wish that I should arrange and prepare for publication the papers she left concerning her last voyage to Madagascar. The dangerous illness which befell her in the Mauritius immediately after she had left Madagascar, and which, in spite of the most careful medical attention, and the kindest nursing on the part of her friends, proved fatal, prevented her from doing this herself.

When, after a few months, I returned from Buenos Ayres to Rio de Janeiro, I found my mother’s papers waiting for me there; but the loss was too recent, and my grief too violent, to allow me to read them then, much less to peruse them with the care and attention which must necessarily precede their publication.

At length I made up my mind to the task. I was obliged to go through it, for it was my mother’s last wish. Filial duty induced me to leave my dear mother’s journal as little altered as possible. In thus giving this last work of my mother to the world, I trust that our kind readers will receive it with the indulgence they have so frequently extended to the other works of the late enterprising traveler.

OSCAR PFEIFFER.

Rio de Janeiro, July 8th, 1860.

CONTENTS.

Biography of Ida Pfeiffer Page ix

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Vienna.--Linz.--Salzburg.--Munich.--The Artists’ Festival.--The King of Bavaria.--Berlin.--Alexander von Humboldt.--Hamburg 41

CHAPTER II.

Arrival in Holland.--Amsterdam.--Dutch Architecture.--Picture Galleries.--Mr. Costa’s Diamond-cutting Works.--The Haarlem Lake.--A Dutch Cattle-stable.--Utrecht.--The Students’ Festival 51

CHAPTER III.

Zaandam.--The little Village of Broeck, celebrated for its Cleanliness.--Strange Head-dresses.--The Hague.--Celebrated Pictures.--Leyden.--Rotterdam.--Departure from Holland 63

CHAPTER IV.

London.--Paris.--Sitting of the Geographical Society.--News from Madagascar.--Popular Life in Paris.--Sights.--A Tale of Murder.--Versailles.--St. Cloud.--Celebration of Sunday 72

CHAPTER V.

Return to London and Holland.--Separation Festival in Amsterdam.--Departure from Rotterdam.--My traveling Companions.--Emigrant Children.--Story of a poor Girl.--Cape Town.--Fortunate Meeting.--Alteration of my traveling Plans 87

CHAPTER VI.

Voyage to the Island of Bourbon.--The Mauritius.--Wealth of the Island.--The City of Port Louis.--Manner of Life among the Inhabitants.--Indian Servants.--Grand Dinners.--Country Houses.--Creole Hospitality 103

CHAPTER VII.

The Sugar-cane Plantations.--Indian Laborers.--A Lawsuit.--The Botanic Garden.--Plants and Animals.--Singular Monument.--The Waterfall.--Mont Orgeuil.--Trou du Cerf.--The Creoles and the French.--Farewell to the Mauritius. Page 116

CHAPTER VIII.

A Geographical and Historical Account of the Island of Madagascar. 131

CHAPTER IX.

Departure from the Mauritius.--The old Man-of-War.--Arrival in Madagascar.--Mademoiselle Julie.--Account of Tamatavé.--The Natives.--Comical Head-dresses.--First Visit in Antandroroko.--Malagasey Hospitality.--The Europeans at Tamatavé.--The Parisio-Malagasey.--Domestic Institutions. 139

CHAPTER X.

The “Queen’s Bath.”--Soldiers and Officers.--Banquet and Ball.--Departure from Tamatavé.--Second Visit to Antandroroko.--Vovong.--The Fever.--Andororanto.--Land and Cultivation.--Condition of the People.--Manambotre.--The bad Roads and the Bearers.--Ambatoarana. 157

CHAPTER XI.

Celebration of the National Feast.--Song and Dance.--Beforona.--The elevated Plateau of Ankay.--The Territory of Emir.--Solemn Reception.--Ambatomango.--The Sikidy.--The Triumphal Procession.--Arrival in Tananariva. 173

CHAPTER XII.

Mr. Laborde.--Prince Rakoto.--Anecdote of his Life.--The Sambas-Sambas.--Mary.--Review on the Field of Mars.--The Nobility in Madagascar.--The Secret Treaty.--The English Missionary Society and Mr. Lambert. 187

CHAPTER XIII.

Introduction at Court.--The Monosina.--The Royal Palace.--The Hovas.--Scenes of Horror under the Queen’s Rule.--Executions.--The Tanguin.--Persecution of the Christians.--One of the Queen’s Journeys.--Her Hatred of Europeans.--Bull-fights.--Taurine Mausoleum. 206

CHAPTER XIV.

Dinner at Mr. Laborde’s.--Foot-boxing.--Ladies of Madagascar and Parisian Fashions.--The Conspiracy.--A Dream.--A Fancy-dress Ball.--An unquiet Night.--Concert at Court.--The Silver Palace.--An Excursion of the Queen. Page 222

CHAPTER XV.

Failure of the _Coup d’État_.--Prince Ramboasalama.--The _Pas de Deux_.--Discovery of the Plot.--Death of Prince Razakaratrino.--Freedom of Manners.--Irreligion.--Beginning of our Captivity.--A Kabar.--Persecution of the Christians.--The Delivery of the Presents. 239