Chapter IX: Part 9

Drop spoonfuls of the following batter on well oiled griddle or dripping pan, lay on slices of the egg plant and cover with the batter. Brown delicately on both sides on the griddle or bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Serve at once.

_Batter_--

2 tablespns. oil or melted butter
3 tablespns. flour
1½ cup boiling water
2 eggs
⅓ teaspn. salt
5 tablespns. stale graham bread crumbs,
or enough to make a batter of the right consistency

Heat oil (without browning), add flour, stir smooth, add water, stirring; when smooth, remove from fire, add beaten eggs, salt and crumbs.

=Greens=

One of the many advantages that the country dweller has over those who live in the city is the great variety of “greens,” as we call the edible weeds, nearly all of which are superior in flavor to the much prized spinach.

There is _narrow or sour dock_, easily distinguished from the broad-leaved (which is not edible) by its long, slender leaf curled on the edges; the _dandelion_, which should be gathered before the buds appear or at least when they are just peeping out, as the greens are bitter when the buds are well developed; _milkweed_, of which we use only the tips unless the stalks are small and tender: _pigweed_, _red root_, _lamb’s quarters_, _purslane_ or “pusley,” with _poke shoots_, the garden _turnip tops_, _cabbage sprouts_, young _beet tops_ and _endive_.

Some are better in combinations, such as milkweed and narrow dock, narrow dock and pigweed, milkweed and purslane and purslane and beet tops.

Do not try to wash greens in a small quantity of water. Put them when first gathered into a large vessel, a wash boiler, a tub or a deep sink in which the water will be deep enough to “swash” them up and down with the hands. When they are thoroughly revived _lift_ them from the water (do not drain the water off), empty the vessel, rinse it well and take another quantity of water. Continue the washing, changing the water until no sand is found in the bottom of the vessel.

Dandelion and some other greens require trimming and looking over carefully after reviving before the final washing.

When ready to cook, throw greens into an abundance of boiling salted water and cook until tender.

The time required for cooking varies; narrow dock requires 20 m., purslane a little longer, pigweed 40 m., milkweed 2-3 hours, beet greens 2½-3 hours, and dandelions 3½-4 hours. It is a good plan to parboil dandelions.

When greens are perfectly tender, lift them carefully with a skimmer from the water into a colander and press with a plate until as dry as possible.

The water from all greens (except dandelion if at all bitter and too large a quantity of narrow dock) is invaluable for soup stock, so pour it off carefully from the sand that may be in the bottom of the kettle even after the most careful washing.

When the leaves are long and stringy it is well to cut across the mass of greens a few times before serving, but the flavor and character are much impaired by too fine chopping.

Pass oil, lemon juice or quarters of lemon, French or Improved Mayonnaise dressing, or Sauce Amèricaine with greens.

=Poke Shoots=--scoke--pigeon berry weed, and young, tender milkweed stalks may be prepared and served the same as asparagus. Do not use poke shoots after the leaves begin to unfold.

Canned greens make as valuable an addition to the winter supplies as canned corn or peas.

=Kale=--borecole, should not be used until after heavy frosts in the fall. Cook as other greens in boiling salted water 30-45 m. and serve the same. If desired, raw nut butter may be added to the water in which it is cooked; then lemon juice only will be required with it. It may also be cooked with tomato, the same as cabbage, by being chopped or cut fine before cooking. Onion and raw nut butter may be added to the tomato.

=Okra--Stewed Whole=

Use only young, tender pods, cut off the stems, wash well and cook in a small quantity of salted water (about 1 cup to each quart of okra) for 30 m. or until tender. Season with cream, dairy or almond, or with butter. Or, drain if any water remains, and pour over it a hot French dressing. Melted butter may be used in the dressing instead of oil.

Never cook okra in an iron vessel.

=Okra--Sliced, Stewed=

Slice pods of okra across and cook with 1 cup of salted water to each pint of okra until tender, 25-30 m. Drain or not, according to what is to be added. Stewed tomatoes, strained or unstrained, almond or dairy cream, sauce 16, 18, 19, or 34, or hot French dressing may be poured over it. When strained tomatoes are used, the okra and tomato should simmer together about 10 m. Add a little heavy cream, butter or oil and salt just before serving.

=Onions--Boiled=

Select onions of about equal size. Peel them, then at the root end cut into the onion about ⅓ of the way at right angles. This causes the onion to cook tender at the heart. Let stand in cold water 20 m. to 1 hour. Put into boiling salted water and cook until tender, ¾-1½ hour. The water may be changed after 15 m. boiling. Drain, add cream, cream sauce or butter, heat a moment (do not boil with cream), serve. Some prefer onions plain with a little of the liquid in which they were boiled.

Drain young onions slightly when about half done, pour on milk and simmer until tender.

=Onions--Stewed=

Cut peeled onions into halves, then into quarters, and slice across in thin slices. Put into just enough boiling salted water to cook tender; dry out well and serve plain or add a little oil or melted butter, hot cream or cream sauce. Serve sometimes over plain boiled or mashed potatoes. Raw or steamed nut butter may be cooked with the onions.

=Onions--Baked=

Select large, perfect onions; peel, and boil until about half done; drain, put into a baking pan, sprinkle with salt and crumbs, pour a little oil or melted butter over and bake, covered part of the time, until tender.

Onions may be dried after boiling, wrapped in oiled paper, baked and served with melted butter or cream sauce.

=Onions--Raw=

Slice onions and let them lie in cold water (no salt) for an hour or more, changing the water occasionally. Drain, dry and serve with salt, salt and oil or lemon juice or with French dressing. If in a hurry to use them, dip sliced onions quickly into boiling water, then into cold water and serve as before. Sprigs of parsley are sometimes passed after dishes containing onions to destroy the odor in the breath.

=Oyster Plant=

Oyster plant--vegetable oyster--salsify, is one of the most delightful vegetables. It should not be used until after heavy frosts and is at its best in the spring after being in the ground all winter. Whatever is dug more than is to be used each time, should be kept in sand in a cool place.

To prepare for cooking, soak in cold water 3 or 4 hours, or over night. Scrape on a vegetable board with a knife and drop each root into a large quantity of cold water as soon as scraped to keep it from turning dark.

When very fresh, oyster plant will cook in 10 m., but late in the season it often requires a half hour. Cook until tender only, not soft.

The flavor of the oyster plant is in the water, so there should always be some liquid left to form part of the sauce.

A little cream is required to develop the flavor of oyster plant.

Water and cream are better than milk.

Milk and a little butter may be used when cream is not obtainable. Raw or steamed nut butter may be used in place of either, and olive oil instead of butter gives an appropriate flavor.

If there should be dark spots through the oyster plant, be sure that every particle is removed, as one little piece with a dark spot in it will flavor the whole dish.

The carbohydrates of oyster plant do not include starch.

=Stewed or Creamed Oyster Plant=

Cut scraped roots into slices ¼-⅓ in. thick according to size, and drop into the water in which they are to be cooked, an equal quantity, usually. Boil without salt for 10-25 m. When nearly tender, add salt.

To the oyster plant liquor, add a little heavy cream, and when boiling, add flour blended with water to make of a creamy consistency; salt if necessary. Chopped parsley may sometimes be added, and a little celery salt occasionally, but oyster plant will not admit of the addition of many flavors. If to be served on toast or rice, or in a rice border, a little onion juice may be added.

=Oyster Plant with Drawn Butter Sauce=

Cook oyster plant in 2-in. lengths in a small quantity of water. Add sauce 40, heat, serve on toast or rice.

=Oyster Plant with Celery or Corn=

Use ⅓ or ½ cooked celery or corn in recipe for stewed oyster plant.

Any of these dishes may be served as a second course at dinner with beaten biscuit with or without ripe olives.

=Parsley=

When parsley is fresh, wash, shake and keep in a thick paper sack near the ice. When withered, put at once into ice water until refreshed.

To dry, pick off the leaves and stand in a warm place. It is better than not any when fresh is not obtainable.

=Parsnips=

The parsnip is another vegetable not good until after heavy frosts, and is much sweeter and richer in flavor when left in the ground until spring.

=Boiled Parsnips=

Scrape or pare parsnips, cut into halves or thirds in flat slices lengthwise; cook in boiling salted water until just tender, 20 m. to 1 hour according to age and size. Serve plain or with hot cream or butter poured over.

Parsnips may be steamed instead of boiled.

=Stewed Parsnips=

Cut parsnips into slices crosswise, ½-¾ in. thick, or if large, cut into quarters first, then slice. Cook in small quantity of water until just tender. Serve with cream, cream sauce, or egg cream or drawn butter sauce.

=Browned Parsnips=

Lay slices of boiled or steamed parsnips in baking pan, pour over a little cream, oil or melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. Brown delicately in oven. Or, dip in oil or butter and flour and brown in quick oven.

=Mashed Parsnips=

Rub parsnips through the colander; season with salt only, or with salt and cream. Heat and serve.

=Fricassee of Parsnips=

Boil sliced parsnips in milk without salt. When tender add salt and thicken slightly with flour stirred smooth with milk. Serve on toast.

=Peas=

Green peas should be neither too old nor too young. When they are small and soft they have no character, but if too old they are hard and flavorless. To be at their best they should be cooked the day they are gathered.

=Green Peas--Stewed=

For fresh tender green peas, wash the pods, shell and put at once into boiling salted water. Washing after shelling takes away much of the sweetness. Cook until tender, 15-25 m. There should be very little water left when they are done. When nice and sweet they require no seasoning but salt. Serve plain, with just enough of the water in which they were cooked to moisten them. A little sweet cream, butter or cream sauce may be added.

Peas that have become withered should be shelled and allowed to stand in cold water for an hour before cooking.

When peas are a little old they require longer cooking, and should have a little sugar in the water in which they are cooked. A small sprig of mint improves the flavor of old peas, but the positive mint flavor should not be distinguishable.

Canned peas of an inferior quality drained and boiled in fresh water with sugar and mint are sometimes hardly distinguishable from fresh peas. A sprig of parsley may be stewed with peas instead of mint.

=Peas--Parisian Style=

Cook in boiling, salted water with parsley and onion; add sugar, and thicken the liquid a trifle.

=Peas--German Way=

Put a spoonful of butter in the saucepan, add peas, salt and a spoonful or two of water, cover close and cook until tender, about half an hour, perhaps.

=Peas With Corn=

Combine green peas and corn as beans and corn in succotash.

=Peas With New Potatoes=

Cook peas and small new potatoes together. Cover with cream or thin cream sauce.

=Melting Sugar Peas=

This is the name of one variety of the edible podded peas. They have a delightful flavor peculiar to themselves. Wash and drain the pods and cut like string beans. Cook in a small quantity of boiling salted water until tender, about 30 m. Add cream, cream sauce or a little butter. Heat and serve.

=Potatoes=

There is great diversity of opinion in regard to the value of the potato as a food. Some, because of its belonging to the family of the deadly night shade, the same family as tobacco, think it should be used sparingly if at all, while others consider it (when baked, at least) one of the most wholesome foods. Its use is often prohibited by physicians in some forms of indigestion and for those rheumatically inclined.

The solid part of the potato is almost entirely starch, so it serves as bulk in combination with nitrogenous foods.

“Potatoes which have grown on the surface of the ground or which have been exposed to the light frequently turn green, and such tubers contain abnormal amounts of solanin, as do old and shriveled potatoes which have sprouted. It is best not to use such old potatoes, but if they are eaten the flesh around the sprouts should be cut away, as this portion is particularly liable to contain solanin.”--_C. F. Langworthy, Ph. D. Farmers’ Bulletin, 295. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture._

Solinine is a vegetable alkaloid which may produce serious results as it is of about the same nature as belladonna and other poisons of that class.

Soak new potatoes for a short time only in cold water before cooking, but old ones for at least 2-3 hours.

In paring potatoes, put them into cold water so that the dirt will not adhere to the flesh. Pare not too thick and throw at once into clear cold water.

When salt is sprinkled over potatoes after cooking it absorbs the moisture and renders them more mealy.

=Baked Potatoes=

No other way of preparing the potato renders it so mealy and digestible as proper baking. Wash and scrub the potatoes thoroughly without breaking the skins, lay them on the grate of a moderately hot oven without touching each other, so that there will be a free circulation of heat around each potato. When the oven is too hot, potatoes will be soggy and indigestible. Bake until just done; do not try with a fork but by pressing with the thumb and finger. When done, serve _at once_ in an uncovered dish, or lay a napkin in a deep dish and fold over the potatoes.

The most perfect way to serve a baked potato is to work it between the folds of a towel in the hand without breaking the skin until soft and mealy all through. Lay each potato on the grate again until all are done. Potatoes may be broken apart in the center and a sprig of parsley laid in when serving on an invalid’s tray or to individuals, but all must be done quickly, as a few moments’ delay after the potato is done will spoil its lightness.

If for any reason baked potatoes must be kept waiting, wrap them in a thick towel and lay in a warm place.

When in a hurry for baked potatoes, pour boiling water over them just before laying them in the oven.

Some think potatoes are whiter and more mealy if boiled until nearly done and then finished in the oven.

Perhaps the most perfect way of baking potatoes is to lay them on a wire stand in a close covered kettle without any water, over a moderate fire.

=Boiled Early Potatoes=

Put pared potatoes into rapidly boiling, salted water. Do not allow water to stop boiling. When nearly done add ½-1 cup cold water. Drain as soon as done. Shake and dry uncovered, over fire. Serve in napkin. When obliged to stand for a few minutes, throw a clean towel over the uncovered kettle to absorb the steam.

=Boiled Late or Winter Potatoes=

Put potatoes into cold, slightly salted water. Bring to the boiling point as quickly as possible. When half done, drain, add cold water and boil again. Drain as soon as done, sprinkle with salt, shake over fire until dry. Serve in napkin or uncovered dish.

=The Irish Way=

Put potatoes in slightly salted cold water; when the water boils add a small quantity of cold water; repeat this process 2 or 3 times; when done, drain, shake until dry and send a few at a time to the table.

=Potatoes in Jackets=

Wash thoroughly, peel off a narrow strip around the potatoes the long way. When tender, drain, sprinkle with salt, shake, peel and serve, or serve without peeling. Taking off the strip around the potatoes causes them to burst and become mealy, and makes them easier to peel while still giving the flavor so much liked by many.

=Steamed Potatoes=

Cook, without paring or with a narrow strip only taken off, in steamer over hot water with a few sprigs of fresh mint. Dry in the oven.

Allow at least 10 m. more for steaming potatoes, either with or without their “coats,” than for boiling.

=Small New Potatoes=

Wash small new potatoes, boil or steam, sprinkle with salt, shake over fire until skins begin to crack, serve in napkin.

Or, rub the skins off with a coarse towel (coarse salt in the towel helps) or scrape the potatoes. After cooking and draining, crack each by pressing lightly with the back of a spoon. Lay in dish, pour hot cream or milk and butter over and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

=Creamed Stewed Potatoes=

Cut potatoes into small pieces or slice not too thin; cook until almost tender; drain, put into cream sauce in double boiler and cook ½ hour longer. Whole small potatoes or large ones in quarters cooked until tender may be served in cream sauce the same.

=Creamed Warmed-Over Potatoes=

Cold baked potatoes are much the best for warming over. Slice baked or boiled potatoes or cut into small pieces and put into cream sauce, with or without celery salt or stalk or a little chopped onion, and simmer slowly 15 m. Sprinkle with parsley in serving.

Or, pour milk over potatoes, cover and heat slowly 15-20 m. If raw nut milk is used heat a half hour. A little onion may be added if desired.

=Water Creamed Potatoes=

Thicken boiling water slightly with flour, add salt, onion or celery if desired, and sliced potatoes. Simmer 15-20 m.

Or, put a little oil or butter into the saucepan, add flour, then boiling water and potatoes.

=Hashed Creamed Potatoes=

Chop cold potatoes, mix with cream sauce, put into baking dish, sprinkle with crumbs and brown in oven.

=Hashed Browned Potatoes=

Mix cream, oil or melted butter and salt with chopped potatoes. Spread evenly in well oiled frying pan, pour a very little water over if oil or butter are used, cover and heat slowly without stirring. When delicately browned on the bottom, fold or roll like an omelet and serve on a hot platter with celery tops or a sprig of parsley.

Or, pour brown sauce over potatoes in baking dish, sprinkle with oil and heat in oven. A little milk or consommé may be added.

=Improved Parisian Potatoes=

Cut balls out of large pared potatoes with vegetable scoop. Cook in boiling salted water until just or hardly tender. Drain, roll and shake in thin drawn butter or cream sauce, sprinkle with parsley, serve as border of timbales or as garnish for other meat dishes.

=Mashed Potatoes=

Very large, or irregularly shaped potatoes may be used for mashing. Have kettle, fine colander and masher hot, with hot milk or cream in the bottom of the kettle. Rub nicely boiled potatoes, a few at a time, through the colander into the kettle _as soon as done_. Beat very thoroughly until smooth and creamy. Add more hot milk if necessary but do not make too soft or the flavor of the potato will be lost. Mashed potatoes should be served at once, but if obliged to stand, make them a little softer, keep hot in double boiler and beat occasionally to restore the smoothness.

=Potato Cakes=

Shape cold mashed potato into cakes, brown on both sides on oiled griddle, or brush with cream, oil or melted butter and brown in oven. Serve as soon as done. When egg is added to potato cakes, they fall soon after removing from the fire and become solid and soggy; also the characteristic flavor of the potato is to some extent destroyed.

=Browned Mashed Potato Slices=

Cut mashed potato (which has been molded in a brick shaped or small round tin dipped in cold water) into rather thick slices. Dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and brown in quick oven. Serve with or without sauce. Slices may be served with a poached egg on each.

=Potato Purée=

Add rich milk to mashed potatoes to make like thick porridge, spread on hot platter as a foundation for cutlets, croquettes, slices of broiled nut meat or nicely poached eggs. Garnish with parsley or other green.

=Baked Sweet Potatoes=

Wash large sweet potatoes without breaking the skins, bake in a moderate oven until they will yield to pressure between the thumb and finger.

Or, boil until nearly tender and finish in the oven. Serve at once. Sweet potatoes will bake in a shorter time than Irish potatoes.

=Boiled Sweet Potatoes=

The most delightful boiled sweet potatoes I ever ate were prepared in the following manner; Cook pared potatoes in a small quantity of water until nearly tender, drain if necessary (but it ought not to be necessary), cover with a towel and let stand on the back of the stove for an hour or longer, shaking occasionally. Potatoes may be boiled until tender and laid on a tin in the oven a few moments to dry.

=Mashed Sweet Potatoes=

Prepare and season the same as mashed Irish potatoes. Serve with tomato cream sauce.

Or, put into oiled baking dish, sprinkle with crumbs and heat in oven.

=Mashed Pumpkin=

Select a nice, rich, fine grained pumpkin, saw into halves, remove the seeds and fibre with a spoon and cut into small pieces without paring. Steam, or stew in a small quantity of water. Drain if watery in cheese cloth. When dry, mash and season with cream or butter and salt. Heat in double boiler or oven, stirring. Serve in mound on hot dish, or put into baking dish, sprinkle with crumbs and brown in oven.

=Baked Pumpkin=

Place halves of pumpkin from which the seeds have been removed, cut side down upon a tin. Bake until tender and dry. Scrape from the shell, mash, season and serve.

=Baked Pumpkin--Individual=

Cut pumpkin into not too small pieces and lay cut side down on waxed paper in baking tin. Serve as baked potatoes.

=Radishes=

Wash radishes well with brush, trim off all but the small green leaves, stand in ice water ½-1 hour. Serve on glass dish with cracked ice, or in a bed of shredded lettuce or of spinach leaves, or with a parsley border.

Pare winter radishes and cut into quarters. Serve sprinkled with parsley, or as other radishes.

=Spinach=

Wash spinach the same as other greens, p. 253. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, 10-30 m. Lift from the water with skimmer into a colander. (Save water for soups and sauces.) Press dry with a plate. Lay in hot pan and cut across a few times but do not chop; return to colander, pressing in firmly, to mold. Turn the dish in which it is to be served over the colander and unmold. Garnish with triangles of toast and hard boiled eggs. Pass oil, quarters of lemon or lemon juice, Sauce Amèricaine or French or Mayonnaise dressing with it. Many prefer it with salt and oil alone. It may also be served with cream sauce, or drawn butter with lemon juice.

Overcooking develops a strong flavor and causes spinach to lose its bright green color.

When spinach is young and sweet, it may be cooked without the addition of water by covering close and heating slowly at first; but when there is danger of its being bitter it should be cooked in plenty of water.

=Spinach with Cream--Delicious=

Pour hot cream over cooked spinach in vegetable dish.

Spinach is sometimes rubbed through a colander after cooking and served with whipped cream, for luncheon or supper.

=Summer Squash=

Cut squash into inch thick pieces, steam, or stew in a small quantity of water; drain in cheese cloth. Mash, season, heat and serve.

If you ever use butter for seasoning in cooking, use it with summer squash; though a little heavy cream, almond or dairy, is very nice. Never use roasted peanut butter with squash.

Only those squashes which are young enough to cook with the skins and seeds are suitable for stewing, as the skins and seeds contain the flavor.

=Baked Ripe Summer Squash=

Bake whole; open, remove seeds, scrape pulp from skin, season and serve as above. This pulp makes very delicate squash cream pies.

=Summer Squash with Corn=

Add ½ cup stewed green corn to each pint of cooked summer squash. Season with salt and cream.

=Winter Squash=

Winter squashes vary so much in quality that no one way of cooking will do for all. There are some varieties from which the skin may be peeled like a tomato, after steaming; others are so hard that it is impossible to pare them; from these scrape out the pulp with a spoon after steaming; others still, are better to be pared before steaming. When soft and watery after cooking, dry in the oven before mashing, and again afterwards if necessary. Some watery squashes have a rich flavor when well dried out.

=Mashed Winter Squash=

Saw squash in halves, remove the seeds and fibre with a spoon, cut into quarters or eighths, pare or not according to the variety, lay inside down in the steamer and cook over boiling water until tender. Remove from the shell if not pared, mash through a fine colander, season if soft with butter or cream and salt, or with salt only; if dry and mealy like the “Delicious,” use plenty of milk and cream with salt. Beat well and serve.

=Mashed Baked Squash=

Bake halves of squash from which the seeds have been removed, cut side down until tender, 1-2 hours or longer. Scrape pulp clean from the shell, mash, add salt, beat well and serve. Baked squash is so sweet that it requires no seasoning but salt, though a little milk or cream may be added if it is very dry.

=Baked Squash--Virginia Way=

Bake pieces of desired size, the shell side up, on waxed paper in baking pan. Serve on platter, allowing each guest to season to taste, and eat from the natural dish.

=Tomatoes=

As the tomato, though a fruit, is prepared and served in so many ways as a vegetable, we will follow custom and consider it under that head; but it must be borne in mind that it should not be served or eaten in combinations unsuitable for other acid fruits.

The most desirable way to serve the tomato is uncooked when well ripened. When perfectly ripe the skin will peel off without any preparation, and it may sometimes be loosened by rubbing the tomato all over firmly with the back of a silver knife; but when more convenient to use the hot water method, the tomatoes do not need to be soft nor to have a cooked taste.

First--have a kettle with an abundance of perfectly boiling water, also a pail with plenty of the coldest water you can get, ice water if possible. Put a few tomatoes (not enough to cool the water much) into a wire basket. Plunge into the boiling water, let rest an instant if very ripe and a second longer if quite solid, then lift the basket and set quickly into the cold water, then turn the tomatoes out into the water and leave them there. Repeat the process, take care each time that the water is boiling before dipping the tomatoes into it and renew the cold water when necessary.

Tomatoes may be put into the boiling water and transferred quickly to the cold water with a skimmer. When thoroughly cooled, set without peeling into the ice box until ready to use.

=Raw Tomatoes=

Peel, slice into not too thin slices, or cut into quarters or sixths from the blossom end just deep enough for the pieces to spread apart without separating. Serve with salt or with some of the salad dressings as a garnish for meat dishes, or as fresh fruit with sugar or sugar and lemon juice. With sugar and heavy cream my grandfather used to think tomatoes were more delicious than peaches and cream.

=Stewed Tomatoes=

Slice tomatoes into sauce pan and bring to boiling point slowly, boil up well, only, season with salt and serve. Long boiling frees the acid of tomatoes and renders them less wholesome. Tomatoes require more salt for palatability than any other article of food.

=Steamed Tomatoes=

Put rather small tomatoes on pan in steamer, steam from 10-15 m., or until tender. Serve on hot toast or crackers or thin round slices of broiled nut meat with a dainty spray of parsley or chervil, for luncheon or supper; allowing each guest to season to taste. If desired, drawn butter, cream sauce or oil may be passed.

=Broiled Tomatoes=

Cut tomatoes in halves without peeling, dust with salt and fine cracker crumbs, broil over hot coals, skin side down, 15-20 m. Serve plain or with Sauce Amèricaine or any desired dressing with wafers or toast. Firm tomatoes may be cut into thick slices and broiled on both sides. They may be just browned and set in the oven to become tender.

=Tomato Purée=

1 qt. stewed tomatoes
1 or 2 sticks of celery
1 teaspn. sugar
1 tablespn. butter
A few slices of onion
1 tablespn. flour
chopped parsley
salt

Heat tomatoes, crushed celery and sugar for 15 m. Simmer onion in butter without browning, add flour, then tomato, boil up well, strain and add chopped parsley. Serve on toast or with boiled rice or with some meat dish. Very nice on toast with sliced hard boiled eggs.

=Turnips=

The later varieties of turnip are by far the best though some of the earlier varieties are sweet and tender. As they need to be grown quickly turnips are never good in a dry season but will be pithy and strong. Turnips require the greatest care in cooking. If they are over-cooked 5 m., they will begin to turn dark and will have a strong, disagreeable flavor. For that reason they are better to be cut into thin slices. They must be boiled rapidly.

=Boiled Turnips=

Wash, cut into quarters or sixths if large, pare very thick, cut into ½ in. slices, put into perfectly boiling water; boil rapidly for 25 m., or until just tender. Add salt at the end of 20 m. or when nearly tender, if at all; nice, sweet turnips are delicious without salt. Drain thoroughly, in cheese cloth if convenient. Serve plain, or with Chili sauce, Sauce Imperial or Sauce Amèricaine; or pour cream sauce over after draining; or pass oil, oil and lemon juice or French dressing with them.

=Ruta-Bagas=

There are white and yellow ruta-bagas or Swedish turnips, and both are richer in flavor and more nutritious than common turnips. The yellow ruta-bagas are especially sweet and rich. Prepare, cook and serve the same as turnips, except that the ruta-bagas require a little longer time for cooking. They are delightful served with Chili sauce, but are so rich and sweet of themselves that no sauce is necessary.

=Mashed Turnips=

Mash well drained boiled turnips with potato masher in hot pan. Do not put through colander. Season with salt and if not sweet a little sugar. Serve plain or with sauce 57, 58 or 75.

=Vegetable Stew=

Cook separately 1 pt. of string beans, 2 small potatoes and 2 small carrots cut into small pieces, and 1 pt. of green peas. When tender, drain, put all together, add salt and cream or a thin cream sauce.

This makes a very pretty as well as a palatable dish.

STARCHLESS VEGETABLES

Artichokes, Globe
Artichokes, Jerusalem
Asparagus
Beans, young string
Beets
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Cucumbers
Egg Plant
Endive
Kohl-rabi
Leeks
Lettuce
Okra
Onions
Oyster Plant--Salsify
Radishes
Ruta-bagas
Spinach and all “greens”
Squash, summer
Turnips

STARCHLESS AND SUGARLESS VEGETABLES

Asparagus
Beans, young string
Cabbage, red and winter
Cauliflower
Egg Plant
Endive
Lettuce
Oyster Plant--Salsify
Radishes
Spinach and all “greens”

The proportion of sugar in nearly all of the other starchless vegetables is small.

CHESTNUTS

Since chestnuts are so largely composed of starch though they also contain a large proportion of albuminoids, from 8.5 to 14.6 according to different authorities, we allow them to follow vegetables while not classing them with them. One writer says “they might have been included among the bread stuffs.” London vegetarians often serve a tureen of plain boiled chestnuts in place of potatoes.

The recipes are for the large imported chestnuts. The smaller native ones require a longer time for cooking. The dried chestnuts which we sometimes find in the stores require 3 hours for boiling.

=To Shell and Blanch Chestnuts=

Boil whole chestnuts rapidly for 10 m. Leave in the hot water, shell and remove the brown covering while warm.

=Boiled Chestnuts=

Cook blanched chestnuts in salted water until just tender, 10-20 m., drain, serve plain or with sauce 14, 16 or 17. Or, boil whole for 25 m. and serve in the shells.

=Chestnut Purée=

Mash boiled chestnuts, add salt, and cream or milk and butter. Beat well, heat in double boiler, serve in center of platter surrounded by nut meat cutlets or croquettes which in turn are garnished with boiled small onions, Brussels sprouts or flowerets of cauliflower suitably seasoned; or purée may be served with globe artichokes, green peas, stewed cucumbers or mashed dry green peas.

=Roasted Chestnuts=

Make at right angles small incisions at the point of the chestnut. Bake 10-20 m. in a rather hot oven, stirring occasionally, or put into a corn popper and shake over the coals.

=Chestnut and Banana Salad with Cream Dressing=

Prepare bananas as suggested for salads, and cover with Cream Dressing--Sweet. Cut boiled chestnuts in quarters and mix lightly with bananas and dressing. Serve in cups or on dainty china plates garnished with flowers or leaves.

=Chestnut Purée--Whipped Cream=

For luncheon, supper or dessert

Add sugar or honey with dairy or cocoanut cream and vanilla, to mashed chestnuts; heat, pile on dish with spoon in rocky form or force through vegetable press, and surround with whipped cream.

=Vanilla or Raisin Chestnuts=

Boil blanched, fresh or dried chestnuts until tender (fresh 15 m., dried, 3 hours). When almost tender, add sugar or honey to water and when the liquid is nearly boiled away, flavor with vanilla; finish in slow oven; serve as confection. Raisin pulp instead of vanilla is delightful.

SALADS

Since experience has taught us that the delicate machinery of the body requires oil to keep it running smoothly, salads as one of the most agreeable means of supplying this need, have been growing in favor.

In our recipes for salad dressings, we have endeavored to give sufficient variety in oils to suit all tastes and circumstances.

“Vinegar--acetic acid, is about ten times as strong as alcohol, and makes more trouble in the stomach than any other acid except oxalic.”--_Dr. Rand._

“No acid should be taken into the mouth with starch as it will prevent the action of the saliva; but if starches have been properly masticated, and a proper amount of saliva mingled with them, lemon juice will not interfere with the digestion of starch in the stomach.”--_Dr. Kress._

For the above reasons, we use no flour or cornstarch in dressings, use lemon juice as the acid, and exclude potato salad. Cold potatoes of themselves are difficult of digestion and combining them with an acid renders them still more so.

Secrets of Success

Use nuts as a garnish, or as an accompaniment to salads instead of mixed with them, as they become tough quickly after touching the dressing. Coarse chopped nuts may be sprinkled over the salad just as it goes to the table.

In beans, green or red French, Lima or California are best for salads since they do not cook to pieces easily.

The whites of hard boiled eggs are more digestible when ground fine, or pressed through a wire strainer. When desired for fancy shapes they may be poached separate from the yolks, p. 199.

Vegetables for salads must be crisp, tender and dry.

Gather lettuce early in the morning, put it into a closed pail or a paper sack and leave in the refrigerator for a few hours; or if it comes from the market slightly wilted, cover it at once with ice water until revived. Never allow the wind to blow upon lettuce. Crisp, by allowing it to stand in ice water after washing until just before serving, then drain and shake in a wire basket or in mosquito netting, cheese cloth or a netted bag.

Celery, parsley, spinach, endive and dandelion may be kept fresh the same as lettuce and crisped in ice water before serving.

Always cut celery, never chop it. Wipe it dry before cutting and if possible, roll in a dry towel a moment after cutting.

Unless cabbage is shaved thread-like it is better to be chopped.

In cooking carrots for salads, drain them when about half done and add boiling water to finish cooking.

The apple, grape fruit and tomato are the only fruits with which a French or Mayonnaise dressing is harmonious.

Dip ripe tomatoes quickly into perfectly boiling water, lift them out and drop into cold water, change the water two or three times if ice is not at hand, set them in a cold place, and peel just before serving.

Do not mix cut, colored fruits (like strawberries) with cream dressings. Lay the pieces between the layers and on top of the salad.

It is seldom suitable to serve fruit salads with lettuce; some glass dish with decorations of leaves, vines and flowers is prettiest.

As a rule, do not mix many kinds of fruit in one salad. One flavor often destroys another.

Many of the fruit salads are suitable for desserts.

Cut oranges in about the middle of the section or just each side of the membrane, leaving that out if convenient; then cut into pieces crosswise.

Cut grape fruit in halves, then around the inside next to the skin, and after removing the pulp, carefully separate it from the membrane.

When juicy fruits are to be used with any but fruit juice dressings, they should be drained. The juices may be used for nectars, other salad dressings or for pudding sauces.

Soak currants or pitted sour cherries in syrup made of one part sugar and two parts water, for an hour or longer, then drain.

For most salads, bananas are better cut into quarters lengthwise, then sliced across.

Pare, quarter and core choice, fine flavored apples, one at a time, cut the quarters into not too thin lengthwise slices, place three or four of the slices together and cut across into small wedge-shaped pieces. Never chop apples for salad. Both apples and bananas should be prepared just as short a time before the meal as possible and should be cut right into the dressing. After being coated with the dressing they will not turn dark.

Shred fresh pineapple according to directions, p. 44. For nut and cream dressings cooked pineapple is preferable. After draining and drying canned sliced pineapple, lay two or three of the round slices together and cut into wedge-shaped pieces about ¼ inch across at the large end.

Keep orange, lemon, grape fruit or tangerine cups in cracked ice or ice water until just before serving, then drain and wipe dry.

The edges of the cups may be pointed or scalloped, and if cups are large the points may be cut deep, and then rolled down. Apple cups may be kept in the same way, or the cut surface may be coated with dressing.

We marinate or pickle some ingredients by mixing them with lemon juice, with or without salt, or with French dressing, a short time before serving. Drain if necessary, before adding the dressing.

A wooden spoon which is used for nothing else is best for stirring dressings while cooking. Dip in cold water and wipe it just before using and wash in cold water immediately after.

Sour cream may be substituted for sweet cream in all dressings; a little less lemon juice is required.

One-third water may be used with lemon juice for dressings if too sour.

Use plenty of salt in dressings for people accustomed to mustard and pepper.

For uncooked dressings all the ingredients and utensils should be as nearly ice cold as possible.

The yolks of five eggs may be used in the place of three whole eggs in boiled dressings.

For salads with eggs, tomatoes or cabbage, a larger proportion of lemon juice and salt is required, and with tomatoes a little sugar is an improvement.

COOKED DRESSINGS

=★ Improved Mayonnaise Dressing=

4 large eggs
⅓ cup oil
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 teaspn. salt

Beat all the ingredients in the inner cup of a double boiler just enough to blend well. Put into the outer boiler containing warm (not hot) water, set over fire, stir with a wooden spoon continuously, taking the inner boiler out occasionally and stirring well if there is danger of cooking too rapidly. When the dressing begins to thicken, remove at once from the fire and set in a dish of cold water which was all ready, stirring until partially cooled. Strain through a wire strainer.

The recipe for this dressing (with some unhygienic adjuncts) was given to me in the early days of my work by a lady to whom a famous chef had given it as a special favor; and to my mind its value is unequalled. It has not an excess of oil like the regular mayonnaise, is easily and quickly made and will keep well in a cool place, covered. I sometimes use ½ cup of oil and ¼ cup of lemon juice, and sometimes just the reverse, according to what I am using it over and the tastes of the people for whom I am preparing it. Three eggs will do very well if one needs to economize in eggs. ¼ cup of cream, whipped, may be added just before serving for Cream Improved Mayonnaise.

=Butter Dressing=

Use melted butter and less salt in improved mayonnaise dressing.

=★ Boiled Salad Dressing--Large quantity=

8-10 eggs
1½ cup oil
1 cup lemon juice
2-3 teaspns. salt

Follow directions for improved mayonnaise dressing.

=No Oil Dressing=

yolks of 2 eggs
1 level teaspn. salt
2 tablespns. lemon juice
whites of 2 eggs

Beat yolks, add salt and lemon juice, cook over hot water, cool; add stiffly-beaten whites of eggs when ready to serve.

=Sour Cream Dressing=

Especially good plain on lettuce, and with flavorings for chopped cabbage.

1 egg
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespns. lemon juice
1 tablespn. water
½-¾ teaspn. salt

Beat egg slightly, add cream, cook the same as boiled custard, cool, add water, salt and lemon juice. When desired, water and lemon juice may be flavored according to directions p. 28.

=Sweet or Sour Milk Dressing=

Substitute sweet or sour milk and 1 tablespn. of oil or butter for sour cream in preceding recipe. Omit water and use 2 eggs if desired very stiff.

=★ Cream Dressing--Sweet=

For fruits especially, but suitable for lettuce, cabbage, beets, celery or carrots.

1 cup heavy cream
or ⅔ cup light cream
3 tablespns. sugar
3 large eggs
3 tablespns. lemon juice

Beat cream, sugar and eggs in inner cup of double boiler; cook as for custard, set dish in cold water; add the lemon juice gradually, stirring, then a trifle of salt, strain.

⅔ only of the cream may be cooked and the remainder whipped and added to cold dressing. In substituting sour cream for sweet, use 1-1½ tablespn. only of lemon juice.

=★ Nut Dressing--no eggs=

2 slightly rounded tablespns.
Brazil, almond, pine nut or
roasted or unroasted peanut butter
⅓-½ cup water
½ teaspn. salt
1-1½ tablespn. lemon juice

Rub butter smooth with water, cook just a moment, stirring. Remove from fire, add salt and lemon juice, cool.

Some flavoring is an improvement with the unroasted peanut butter.

Roasted peanut butter dressing and improved mayonnaise dressing may be combined with a very pleasing effect.

Use from ½-¾ cup strained stewed tomato in place of the water, and ¾ teaspn. of salt, for Nut Tomato Dressing.

=★ Almond Butter Dressing=

Add 2 tablespns. of sugar to the nut dressing made with almond butter and you have one of the most delightful fruit salad dressings.

=Rhubarb Salad Dressing=

While the liberal use of rhubarb is not to be recommended on account of the oxalic acid it contains, it affords variety in dressings and has the advantage of always being at hand in the country when one gets out of lemons.

3 large or 4 small eggs
¼ cup oil
½ cup prepared rhubarb
½-⅔ teaspn. salt

Stew rhubarb without peeling, with not more than one tablespoon of water to the quart of rhubarb. Rub through a fine colander or sieve, mix in the proportions given, with the other ingredients and cook the same as improved mayonnaise dressing.

Green gooseberries prepared in the same way may be used in the place of rhubarb.

=Olive Dressing=

Make “No Oil” dressing with 1½ only, tablespn. lemon juice and just before serving sprinkle over it two tablespns. coarse chopped ripe olives.

=Tomato Dressing=

Excellent on apples, string beans, celery, cabbage and lettuce, on peas croquettes, and for decorating.

3 large eggs
¾ cup thick tomato pulp
¼ cup oil
3 tablespns. lemon juice
1-1½ teaspn. salt

Drain juice from stewed tomatoes, rub pulp through strainer or fine colander, combine with other ingredients and cook as improved mayonnaise dressing.

=Orange Dressing=

For suitable fruit salads.

1-1½ cup sugar
1 cup water
⅔ cup orange juice
5-6 tablespns. lemon juice

Boil sugar and water to syrup; cool, add orange and lemon juice, strain. If desired, flavor with oil of orange.

=Boiled Dressing with Cornstarch=

I insert this dressing with many apologies for the cornstarch, which as we know, is entirely out of place in a salad dressing, and trust that it will be used in emergencies only when eggs are very scarce.

2 cups water
½ cup corn starch
2 teaspns. salt
3 eggs or 4 yolks
½ cup lemon juice

Boil salt and water, add the cornstarch which has been stirred smooth with cold water; boil up, add beaten eggs and lemon juice; beat well, cool.

UNCOOKED DRESSINGS

=French Dressing=

Suitable for vegetables, apples, tomatoes, eggs, legumes and nut foods.

The proportions of lemon juice and oil in this dressing vary from 1 part of lemon juice to 4 parts of oil, to equal parts of each, and in extreme cases to the use of four or five times as much lemon juice as of oil according to the ingredients of the salad and individual taste, but the proportions most generally used are the following:

¼-½ teaspn. salt
3 tablespns. oil
1 tablespn. lemon juice

Mix salt and oil well, add lemon juice slowly, stirring, pour over salad, serve at once. If flavorings are used, mix them with the salt and oil before adding the lemon juice. My experience is that this method of combining the ingredients gives the best results. A bit of ice may be added while stirring, but if ingredients and utensils are ice cold it will not be necessary.

=Orange French Dressing=

Let orange juice stand for a few moments with thin shavings from the outside of the rind in it, strain and combine with the salt and oil as above, using equal quantities of oil and orange juice or only ½ as much of the juice. Serve over sliced apples or tomatoes.

=Grape French Dressing=

Equal quantities of grape and lemon juice with salt and a small proportion of oil. Delightful over apples, oranges, grape fruit, pears or peaches, or suitable combinations of the same.

=Honey French Dressing=

Use equal quantities of lemon juice and honey or three or four times as much lemon juice as of honey, with oil and a trifle of salt, over lettuce or suitable fruits. Honey and lemon juice without the oil may be used by those who prefer it.

=Nut French Dressing=

Add water to any preferred nut butter until of the desired consistency; then salt and lemon juice according to the ingredients of the salad. Butter from either Brazil, almond or pine nuts is good. Raw pine nuts have much the flavor of cheese. If unroasted peanut butter is used, the flavor of onion or garlic or both is an improvement.

=Salad Entrée Dressing=

1 tablespn. chopped parsley
¾ tablespn. chopped onion
¾-1 teaspn. salt
¾-1 teaspn. celery salt
½ cup olive oil
⅓ cup lemon juice

Mix dry ingredients, add oil, then lemon juice slowly, stirring.

=English Salad Dressing=

1½-2 tablespns. sugar
1 tablespn. oil
2 tablespns. lemon juice
¼ teaspn. salt
1 tablespn. shredded fresh mint, or ¼ teaspn. powdered dry mint

=★ Lemonade Dressing=

For lettuce and many fruits.

1 tablespn. each of lemon juice and water to each slightly rounded tablespn. of sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. For juicy fruits, use lemon juice and sugar only.

=Tarragon Dressing=

For fruits.

1 teaspn. chopped tarragon to each half cup of lemonade dressing.

=Orange Dressing=

¾ cup orange juice
¼ cup lemon juice
3 tablespns. sugar
rind of ⅛ of an orange

Cut thin slices from the yellow part of the rind; let stand with the other ingredients for 15 m. Strain and pour over fruit. Omit rind for strawberries, pineapple and such other fruits as it will not harmonize with.

=Raspberry Juice Dressing=

Add sugar flavored with oil of orange, with lemon juice, to rich red raspberry juice, the proportions depending upon the sweetness of the raspberry juice. Serve over apple or apple and orange.

=★ Quick Cream Dressing--Sweet=

5 tablespns. cream
1½ tablespn. sugar
½ teaspn. salt
lemon juice to thicken, perhaps about 1 tablespn.

Mix cream, sugar and salt, add lemon juice slowly, stirring until dressing is thick, and be sure to stop when it is thick.

=★ Whipped Cream Dressing=

For shredded lettuce, chopped cabbage or cooked beets, and some fruits.

3 tablespns. lemon juice
2 tablespns. sugar
⅛ teaspn. salt
¼-⅓ cup of cream

Whip cream, sugar and salt together, chop lemon juice in lightly.

=Sour Cream Dressing=

½ cup sour cream
1 teaspn. to 2 tablespns. lemon juice
½-1 teaspn. salt

Whip cream until just thick, add lemon juice and salt which have been mixed. For lettuce or apples, use such flavorings as fresh mint, tarragon, onion, chives, celery salt or seed when desired.

=For Sweet Dressing of Sour Cream=--Add 1½ tablespn. of sugar to lemon juice in above recipe.

=Sour Milk Dressing=

2 eggs
¼ teaspn. salt
⅔ cup sour milk
1-1½ tablespn. lemon juice

Beat yolks with salt, add milk, then lemon juice gradually, stirring, then the stiffly-beaten whites of the eggs. For a sweet dressing add 2 tablespns. of sugar to the whites of the eggs.

=Mayonnaise Dressing=

yolk of 1 egg raw (some use 2 or 3)
½-1 teaspn. salt
1 cup to 1 pt. of oil
1-1½ tablespn. lemon juice to each cup of oil

Use only 1 cup of oil unless a very thick dressing is required. Have all utensils and ingredients cold. In very hot weather only, set dish in which dressing is made on chopped ice or in ice water. Use a soup plate with a silver or wooden fork, or a bowl with revolving egg beater. Beat yolk of egg and salt, add ½-1 teaspn. lemon juice, mix well, then add oil, drop by drop at first, stirring constantly (one way, some say). After a little, oil may be added faster. When mixture becomes thick, stir in a little lemon juice. Do not allow it to get too thick before adding lemon juice. When done the dressing should drop, not pour, from a spoon.

If mixture shows signs of curdling, set dish on ice, continuing to stir, and if it does not become smooth then, add a teaspoon of cream or a little white of egg or a few drops of lemon juice, beating well. Or, take another yolk, begin again more carefully, and when well started add the curdled portion slowly.