Chapter IV

WRIGHT MARRIES AND VISITS ITALY.--LETTERS.--EXTRACTS
FROM DIARY.--BIRTH OF HIS DAUGHTER, ANNA ROMANA, IN
ROME.--INFLUENCE OF THE OLD MASTERS.

In July, 1773, Wright married Miss Ann Swift, and in November set sail in the “Jupiter” for Italy, with his wife and Mr. Hurleston.[11]

Before leaving England he wrote the following letter to his brother, Richard Wright:--

“1773.
“Dear Brother,

“By the waggon yesterday I sent you in a box four pillar
Candlesticks called Tooth & Egg, to be cleaned as silver.
They _are_ what they _seem_ to be, w^{ch} if I mistake not
your temper, will be more pleasing to you than a refined
outside, with a Base inside. They are such at least as best
suit my Taste & pocket, & I sincerely hope you’ll receive
them as a pledge of the Love I bear you. I shall be glad to
hear you have got ’em safe. Thursday last I got on board the
Jupiter all our Baggage, and a Case with the two pictures of
the Alchymist and Captive King, for so my Friends advised
me. The ship is sailed for Exeter, when she will arrive is
as uncertain as the Winds that blow her. However, I hope the
Cap^{t.} will soon send us a summons to embark. The winter
approaches fast, and will, I fear, blast those Joys I promised
myself at a more agreeable time of the year; however, I
flatter myself _matrimony_ has improved my Constitution, and I
am better able to bear the rude winds than heretofore.

“Last week my Sister Nancy and this family went on board the
‘Jupiter,’ afterwards we were conducted by the Cap^{t.} to
his house, where we dined with the rest of the passengers; a
good thought this of the Cap^{t.} that we might not when we
met on board wear the awkward faces of strangers. I shall be
very happy to hear again from you ere we leave English ground,
and if you write on Saturday night it will I think get here
in time. Tell M^{r.} Greenwood the Drawings will be ready
whenever he sends for them. I rec’d the Ruffles safe. Make my
affectionate Comp^{ts.} to M^{rs.} Fox & M^{rs.} Shelton; I
dreamt she was got so well as to visit her Friends, would she
was really so.

“I am, with Love to my Sister & affectionate Comp^{ts.} where
due, your Loving Brother,

“JO. WRIGHT.

“P.S.--I hope Dick’s[12] heart failed him not }
at his Departure. } Tuesday night,
“M^{r.} Hurleston’s Comp^{ts.} to you & Sister. } London.”

He evidently proved a bad sailor, for in his first letter home, written from Nice, he says, “The continual agitation of the ship soon rendered us very sick, and we not only lost sight of land, but of everything save our cabin, and the vessel into which we discharged the contents of our sickly stomachs.” He spent many months in Rome, studying especially the works of Michael Angelo, in the Capella Sestina of the Vatican. He here made faithful drawings, upon a larger scale than had generally been attempted, as he considered those subjects but ill-adapted for pocket-book sketches. “These Treasures of Art[13] have hitherto remained, in a great degree, lost to the world, having scarcely been seen except by Mr. Wright’s particular friends, to whom he showed them, when his imagination was warmed with a description of the divine originals.”[14] In Hayley’s Life of Romney we read, “In 1773, Romney went to Italy, where he acquainted himself with all the artists of his country, for I recollect his having repeatedly lamented that our amiable friend, Wright, the painter of Derby, had laid the foundation of those cruel nervous sufferings which afflicted his later years, by excess of application during his residence in Rome.”

His letters from Italy are very interesting, especially for his opinions on various celebrated Works of Art. A few extracts must suffice.

“ ... And on Sunday, 5th Dec. (1773), came into port at Nice
amidst thousands of spectators of all ranks, who were placed
on steps, their heads rising one above another had a very
pleasing effect, like the crowded galleries of a theatre.
It was on the ‘Jupiter’s’ account this large assembly were
gathered together, she being the largest vessel that has
sailed into this port, and I fancy I may add the best, she
weathered without any material injury many storms.”

Rome, Feb^y 4th, 1774.

“As I know my Dear Brother & Sister will be better pleased to
have a speedy account of our safe arrival here, from an hasty
& irregular Letter, than from a more accurate one with delay,
I embrace the first minute to tell you we got here last night
in tolerable Sp^{ts} considering the tedious Journey we had
from Leghorn, w^{ch} is not 200 miles. We were advised as the
best mode of travelling for those who speak not the language
of the Country to engage with a man to take us to Rome for so
much money & to accommodate us with every necessary on the
Road. The Carriages have only two wheels, like our one horse
chairs, drawn by the same pair of horses all the way, w^{ch}
travel about as fast as our Stage waggons; we were obliged
to rise by three in the morning to go betwixt 20 & 30 miles
a day, to arrive at night at a poor house, with large cold
rooms, & bad accommodation, very unpleasing to the English
traveller. By the advice of M^{r.} Cesar, M^{r.} Heathcote’s
friend at Pisa, I provided myself with a large Cloak, such
as the Italians use; w^{ch} kept me tolerably comfortable by
day & night, in w^{ch} I lay, for I durst not undress, the
Beds being seldom lain in. Cap^{t.} Difting’s delay threw us
into the Winter which has been attended with much cost & many
inconveniences.”

“Rome, Feb. 12, 1774.
“MY DEAR BROTHER,

“I fully intended sending this Letter according to the first
date, but was prevented by the visits of the English; and many
other occurrences has since happened to prolong my silence
beyond my wish, as I know you will be anxious to have a second
Letter; tho’ I wrote to M^{r.} Coltman from Genoa, who wou’d,
I hope, inform you I was well. I am (_entre nous_) surprized
he shou’d think of quitting the Close till he has it brought
into as good condition as he found it. If he leaves it so
he must have gained much by it. If M^{r.} Brentnall has it,
who, according to your account, I have no objection to, care
should be taken that he does nothing to the disadvantage of
my Close to benefit his own. I am sorry poor Dick has been so
unfortunate at his first setting out, it was enough to give
him an insurmountable prejudice, for the sea is terrible in
stormy weather. I am sorry he is still likely to be expensive
to us, only because I can’t now so well afford it as formerly.
This Tour has & will cost me much more than I expected. My
wife has been but indifferent, the storms by sea, and the
violent shaking by land (for some parts of the road is very
stony) have been too much for her. I called in a Doctor who
said it was necessary she should loose blood, accordingly the
next morning was appointed for the operation. The D^{r.} &
his Surgeon came, never did I see such parade, they talked of
Galen & Hypocrates & abundance of stuff, to conceal, I fear,
their Ignorance. However, M^{rs.} Wright is better, they are
against purging and have ordered her to drink a small liquor
which they call Sherbett, to thin her blood. I have not wrote
to M^{r.} Shackleford, I did not think it necessary, & his
behaviour to me required it not I am sure, for whatever he
may say of generosity & Gratitude, I never saw the least
shadow of it. I was very fortunate in getting both yours &
Nancy’s Letters; my wife has not heard from her friends,
nor has Hurleston, nor Downman[15] who came with us received
any Letters. I shall be glad to hear from you as soon as
your business will permit. The air here is not so cold as in
England, but it is very thin & searching. Nancy tells me she
has heard the Empress of Russia[16] has taken ye picture of
the Iron Forge, but does not like the Hermit. I hope by this
time you have heard from Burdett & to some purpose. Make my
affectionate Comp^{ts.} to Coltmans, Hopes, Denby, &c., &c.,
&c.

“I am sorry to hear you have been indisposed, and that my
Sister is no better. Give my love to her. Make my Comp^{ts.}
to Col. Heathcote, his Lady, &c., tell them I have seen
Cap^{t.} Heathcote--he’s well. When I write again I hope we
shall be settled, when you shall hear more particularly from
me. It is now Carnival time at Rome, the Romans are all mad.
M^{r.} Coke, our member’s son, has done me the honor of a
visit. M^{rs.} Flint’s death alarmed me much, tho’ I thought
before I left Derby she declined fast. M^{rs.} Clayton’s
indisposition surprised me. What great alterations does a
little time make in a small circle of acquaintance. Pray how
does M^{rs.} Shelton, our good friend M^{rs.} Fox, I hope
for their mutual happiness they both are well. Pray has Miss
Fowler received the colours she gave me a commission for, my
respects attend the family. Adieu. God be with all.

“I am with sincerity,
“Your loving Brother,
“J. WRIGHT.”

“Rome, 13th Ap, /74.

“FOR MISS NANCY WRIGHT, at Mr. Hurleston’s in Cary Street,
Lincoln’s Inn Fields, London, England.

“What havock, my dear Nancy, does a little time make in the
small circle of one’s acquaintance, and how weak and tottering
is the basis on which human happiness is founded. Poor M^{rs.}
Van! I left her a happy wife, smiling amidst a joyous family,
but now, by one fatal stroke, suddenly involved in bitter
calamity, in deep affliction, a sad disconsolate widow. I
hope to God M^{r.} Van has left her so circumstanced that she
will feel no additional sorrow on that consideration. He was
a good man, and has no doubt done what he could for his dear
family. When you see them or write to them, give my love to
them, and say I let fall many a sympathetic tear. While I am
in this gloomy scene, let me enquire after the afflicted. Pray
how does M^{rs.} Shelton, I fear from your expression she’s
relapsed into her old malady. Our good friend, M^{rs.} Fox,
amidst y^{e} calamities of this world, with her usual good
sense & fortitude, I hope keeps up her spirits & is tolerably
happy. How does our friends do at Chester, and to go a little
farther, how is M^r and M^{rs.} Clayton, is he got well of
his indisposition? Remember me to all my friends in terms
agreeable to the esteem you know I hold them in.

“In your first letter you mention _something_ of my Brother’s
indisposition, nor is my Brother more particular about it,
from which I judged it was slight; but a letter from Tate,
and yours, wh^{ch} now lies before me, sadly convince me
to the contrary. My suspicions made me uneasy, & the proof
has made but little abatement in it; however, as it is now
only the effect of his illness, I hope he will make daily
advancements to health. I am pleased to hear Mr. Meynell has
behaved so well to my Bro., and that Mr. Greasley--to whom
our comp^{ts.}--is so ready to assist him & is kind. Tate
will have a letter from Hurleston while in Town, but as he
was not so civil as to ask me if I had any commands, or give
me an opportunity of writing a word or two, I must desire
you to tell him I shall be glad if he would look after the
picture of the Hermit, see whether any accident has happened
to it, and deliver it safe to Sotheby to keep till I return to
England. M^{r.} Hurleston, to whose family give our respectful
compliments, will inform Tate concerning the picture. I should
write to Tate, but he must excuse me at present, for I have
so much employment for my eyes (w^{ch} by the by are not so
good as they have been) in the art I am in search of that I
cannot afford to use ’em otherwise; hence the reason I have
never wrote to my good friends Pether, Rawson, Capt. French,
R. Tate, Turner, &c.

“We are now fixed in very good apartments in the most
healthful part of this city. The house stands upon the highest
ground, and we have 109 stairs to ascend to them, which I fear
will be very inconvenient in hot weather. Here are upwards of
40 English students, and many cavaliers, w^{ch} makes Rome a
much dearer place than I expected.

“Rome answered my expectations at first, but my love &
admiration of it increase daily. ’Tis a noble place to study
in, and if so many years had not passed over my head I shou’d
be tempted to stay longer.

“Tell Tate to take notice whether my picture[17] is hung
advantageously in the Exhibition, and it may be sold in the
catalogue, and whether mention is made that I am at Rome. I
have set 80 guineas upon it, but I would take 70 rather than
not sell it.”

NOTE.--_The writer is indebted to the proprietors of the “Art Journal”
for the above, and several other illustrations in this work._]

Rome, May 22, /74.
“DEAR SISTER,

“After waiting many a post-day with great impatience and
anxiety, I at last rec^d a letter from my dear brother;
from my sister and Coltman’s letters, I had reason to have
expected one much sooner, w^{ch} made the delay intolerable,
and filled me with many a doubt and many a fear, lest he
should have relapsed into his grievous illness. I have felt
much on y^e occasion, and the account he has given me of it
(tho’ the danger I hope to God is over), is even now very
alarming, from the reflection of what might have happened.
You, my dear sister, being witness to the malady, must have
suffered much: I sincerely wish him a speedy and perfect
re-establishment of his health. Ill health is one of the
greatest evils that can befall man in my opinion, the truth
of w^{ch} both you and myself have had woeful experience, and
I am sorry to hear you still labour under the affliction.
Mine, thank God, is much better. This climate is certainly
very salutary, and would, I think, perfectly restore me, was
not my attention and application continually engaged with the
amazing and stupendous remains of antiquity; and so numerous
are they, that one can scarce move a foot but the relics of
some stupendous works present themselves. When I consider the
immense size of the whole, and the beauty of the parts, I
cannot help reflecting how trifling and insignificant are the
present operations of mankind; we are no better than infants,
and ought to wear daiding strings. I have no time to enter
into a particular detail of the fine things this country
abounds with; let it suffice to tell you at present, that the
artist finds here whatever may facilitate and improve his
studies. The Antique remains of Art, as I said before, are
wonderful. The natural scenes are beautiful and uncommon, with
an atmosphere so pure and clear, that objects twenty miles
distant seem not half the way.

“The women are in general handsome, they walk admirably, and
have a gentility and ease about them peculiar to themselves.
’Tis not in the costliness of their habits that they outdo
the English, but in the form and manner of wearing them. Vast
quantity of fine hair, elegantly disposed of, with sometimes a
very small cap, with jewels, &c., are the ornaments of their
head; and when they go out, instead of putting on a hat,
they wear black gauze, w^{ch} is gathered behind, and hangs
from the upper and back part of the head over the face: of a
beautiful woman or rather face, one sees so much as to make
one wish to see more; of a plain one, it partly conceals the
defects. They all wear long trains to their gowns, however
ordinary the stuff, w^{ch} has a grand effect. The common
people dress in the same manner, tho’ with worse materials,
and from the mutual intercourse one with another--for in
the summer months they sit in the streets and pursue their
occupations--they have an easiness of deportment that is
amazing; their dress, too, which is perfectly easy and
picturesque, contributes much to it.

“J. WRIGHT.”

“Rome, Aug. 10th, /74.
“MY DEAR BROTHER,

“ ... The thermometers are now at 97 degrees. My wife received
the letter you mention, and has answered it by post. As Tate
has left Manchester for the present, desire he will write to
his brother to wait upon Burdett for the pen-and-ink drawing
he has of mine, which Mortimer gave me, & w^{ch} I would not
lose on any account. I suppose I shall suffer much by him.”

“ ... We have had but little society here--none with the
Italians--for the want of language cuts off all intercourse.
Learning a new language at my time of life is a very arduous
task, and would take up more of my time than I can spare. It
is astonishing how little I have got of it; and yet, when I
consider my time is entirely spent amongst the antique statues
and paintings, the wonder ceases, for they speak not the
language.”

“ ... Since we came here we have seen St. Peter’s & the
Villa de Medicis, of w^{ch} I can say nothing; they beggar
all description. They abound with objects for the artist’s
contemplation. It is now Carnival time; the Romans seem to
me all going mad. The gent^{ln} & ladies parade in their
carriages up & down a long street whimsically dressed in
masques, the most beautiful of w^{ch} was young Mr. Coke, our
Member’s son. You know he is very handsome, and his dress,
w^{ch} was chiefly white, made him appear charming indeed. The
lower class walk up & down the streets practising their wit
one upon another, consistently with the character they put on.

“J. WRIGHT.”

“Rome, Aug. 11.
“TO MISS N. WRIGHT.

“ ... A post or two ago I wrote to my Bro., by which letter
you will learn my dear Nancy was safely delivered of a fine
little wench, who is now seven weeks old, hearty and bonny.
I watch with infinite pleasure its infant state, and slow
advances to sensibility. I pray God it may prosper, it will
make me happy--our mode of dressing it is so different to
the Italian, it raises their admiration; for instead of the
loose, light, and easy dress we have, they swaddle their
children from head to foot, like so many Egyptian mummies,
and have neither use of their hands nor feet; in hot weather
it is filthy and intolerable, and I observe when the little
creatures are let out of prison at night they discover a
pleasure, which condemns the practice.

“J. WRIGHT.”

“Rome, August 14, /74.
“TO MISS N. WRIGHT.

“I am heartily sorry, my dear Nancy, so many uncouth
circumstances have happen’d to embitter your life, and ruffle
that bosom which I know is so well formed for peace and sweet
repose. The world, you know, is made up of good and ill, and
would exist not but for contrarieties; every individual that
helps to compose the whole has his portion, and happy it is
for him whose scale of good fortune makes light the adverse
one. Minds there are, my Nancy, so fraught with fortitude,
patience, and philosophy, as blunt the edge of ills, and bear
sharp fortune with a degree of composure as is astonishing,
but this, my love, is a power, a faculty of mind few can boast
of; yet, I flatter not, when I say you possess these virtues
in a desirable degree, and now (sorry I am for the occasion)
call them forth, and soothe as much as may be, your troubled
breast. Well I know how grievous the indisposition of your
lover must be to you, yet consider a little time may make a
great change in him; he’s young, and has naturally a good
constitution, w^{ch} doubtless will soon overcome the present
malady. May I prove a good prognosticator, and may you both be
happy.

“My pictures are in great estimation here. I am shortly to be
introduced to the Pope; it is thought he will honour me with
his medal....

“J. WRIGHT.”

“TO RICHARD WRIGHT. “Rome 11th Nov. /74.

“MY DEAR BROTHER,

“I am just returned from an Excursion to Naples w^{ch} I made
partly to satisfy my curiosity for seeing one of the most
wonderful parts of the world, and partly to improve my health
impaired by the intense heats and too close application to
study. There has not been known at Rome so hot a summer as
the last these many years past. In the month of August the
thermometer in the sun was 120 degrees, in y^e shade 96.
At Florence the heat was so great as to affect many with a
kind of delirium, and others it proved fatal to. I never
before experienced such intolerable heat, so great was the
perspiration occasioned by it, notwithstanding we have one of
the most airy situations here, as made it necessary to sit
still and constantly wipe off the sweat as it distilled, this
relaxed the mind and body so much as to render them unfit for
study and application. I am surprised Sir W^{m.} Meredith is
not punctual in his payment, if he has not paid when you write
to me again, tell me so, and I will write to him about it. I
am glad my tenants like their closes, I hope their pains and
expenses will be rewarded; give my comp^{ts.} to them. The
19^{th} Nov., the day you intend to celebrate your Nuptial,
now draws very nigh--may health, long life, and every joyous
circumstance of the marriage state attend you and yours is y^e
sincere wish of yours, &c.

“Mrs. Wright begs to be remembered to you and your intended
lady, with every good wish for your felicity. She is, thank
God, well, and the little Roman is very bonny, and the
admiration of all that see her.

“A day or two before the time appointed for my introduction
to the Pope, he was taken with an indisposition, which in a
short time robb’d him of his life and me of my honours....
Remember me with respect to all my friends; when you see
Whitehurst,[18] tell him I wished for his company when on
Mount Vesuvius, his thoughts would have center’d in the bowels
of the mountain, mine skimmed over the surface only; there was
a very considerable eruption at the time, of which I am going
to make a picture. ’Tis the most wonderful sight in nature.

“Adieu, God be with you and my friends, to whom remember me
with most cordial love,

“I am,
“Your Affectionate Brother,
“JO. WRIGHT.”

“Rome, May 4, /75.
“For MISS WRIGHT, at Mr. Wright’s, Surgeon, Derby.

“DEAR SISTER,

“I thought I should have dated this letter from Florence, but
I am like all other artists that come here, who much outstay
their intended time, and at last leave the noble and renowned
city (Rome) with reluctance. Notwithstanding, I have been very
industrious, more so perhaps than has been consistent with my
health, yet shall I leave undone many things that I covet much
to have. I have staid a month longer than I intended, to have
an answer from Mr. Baxter, the Russian Consul, concerning the
picture I have painted of Mount Vesuvius in a great eruption,
’tis the grandest effect I ever painted. If the Empress is to
have it, it must be shipped from Leghorn to St. Petersburg,
and I must wait here to see it off. I wish she may take it, a
100 guineas will not be unacceptable, for it is not so cheap
living abroad as generally represented; we pay for a floor
consisting of 6 rooms at the rate of £40 a year. The tour of
Italy is now become so fashionable, and the English cavaliers
so profuse with their money, that the artists suffer for their
prodigality.

“I should have finished this letter according to the date, but
have again had inflamed eyes, and have been much indisposed
with sore throats and colds. The weather this spring has been
very awkward, always varying from hot to cold--sometimes
harsh, dry winds, at other times violent rains; in short,
the air of Rome is by no means good; and when I consider my
health only, & the many indispositions I have had here, I am
not sorry we are to leave on Sunday, 10th June. We go from
hence to Florence, where I suppose we shall stay a month or
six weeks, & then to Parma, where the most famous picture of
Corregio is. If the picture answers to its character, I shall
make a copy of it, it will improve me; and if I choose to sell
it, it will be advantageous. When I have finished at Parma,
we shall go to Venice to study Titian’s colouring. These
engagements will detain me in Italy the hot weather, and to
return to England in the cold will not be advisable for me. If
I can get over the Alps before the snow falls, and pass the
winter advantageously at Bordeaux, in the south of France, it
will, I believe, be the best scheme for my health. It has been
said, if I chose to paint portraits at Bordeaux I might be
employed all the winter.

“Give my comp^{ts.} to my good friend Coltman (to whom I wrote
some 7 or 8 weeks ago), and tell him of my intention. But I
should not choose to go there on an uncertainty, as it is not
a place of art. Perhaps he will write to some of his friends
there to know what encouragement I might meet with there for
a couple of months. Make comp^{ts.} to Mrs. Fowler & to her
most ingenuous & agreeable daughter--in a word, to all friends
whom I have in my heart, but cannot particularize.

“Dear little Nancy is a fine little wench. An Italian gent^n
who saw her in the street sometime ago said, what a fine girl
she was, but was absurd enough to say at the same time, it was
a pity the English shou’d have fine children, they used’em so
cruelly, mine goes almost naked. The Italians load theirs with
dress.

“Y^{r.} affectionate Bro.,
“J. WRIGHT.”

“Parma, July 24th, 1775.
“DEAR SIR,

“In conformity to your request I am sat down to give you my
opinion of the famous picture of Correggio, of which how shall
I dare speak, but in the current terms of exalted praise. You
know the world’s opinion of it, & if mine does not exactly
coincide with it, it is not from any affectation of being
singular in my opinion, but the result of such judgment as
I have, divested of every thing that has been said, for or
against it.

“As to the composition & light & shadow, you are as well
acquainted as myself from y^e copies you have seen. The
picture is beautifully coloured, has surprising brilliancy,
without whiteness, and is very harmonious. The parts are
very round and forcibly painted, but is laboured as to beget
tameness--I had almost said woodenness in many parts. The
faces are wonderfully soft, but they want those beautiful
turns & spirited touches we see in nature, & which keeps
high-finished pictures from looking heavy. The flesh is finely
coloured, is very clear, and has a sanguine appearance that
is very pleasing, but withal not so true as Titian’s Venus.
The draperies are neither very finely set nor painted, nor had
Correggio the finest eye for shapes; yet after all the whole
together is wonderfully sweet, & one cannot help being charmed
with the effect. Romney only painted the Magdalen’s head, the
picture answered not his expectations; and Mr. Parry left his
quite unfinished, as the picture did not appear so fine to him
a second time as it did the first. Mr. Copley has been hard at
it five weeks, & says he will spend twice that time more over
it, but he will get it like the original. It is with infinite
labour he produces what he does, but that is _entre nous_. I
have left my outline, with two English three-quarter cloths,
which you seemed to admire, with the Custodio of the academy,
directed for you.

“I am quite tired of seeing pictures, the general run of them
are so indifferent--even Venice answered not my expectation.
Titian’s works are so changed and damaged, & when Mr. Romney
said he was not to be seen out of Venice, he meant in grand
composition & expression.

“In the Sacristy of the Salute are three ceilings, the one
of David & Goliath, Abraham offering his son, & the third I
don’t know y^e subject; these are finely painted & designed
in a Mic’ Angelo like style. Romney did not copy the St.
John; a disaster happened which you will hear of at Venice, &
which I have not now time to relate; he painted a half-length
of Montague and two or three heads, which he will finish in
England. Mr. Jenkins was so obliging to ship my cases for me.
I had desired poor Mr. Stevens to pay Mr. Jenkins any charge
there might be upon them; I wish you would be kind enough to
settle it for me, I will repay you when I have the pleasure
to see you in England. If you will indulge me with a line
directed to me at Germany--Girardot & Co., Bankers in Parma--I
shall be very happy to hear from you.

“Mrs. Downman and Mrs. Wright send their best compliments to
you, as does little Pop her ‘Ta.’

“I am, D^r Sir,
“Your friend,
“J^{o.} WRIGHT.”

“A Monsieur Humphrey[19] Pittore Anglois,
“a Mon^{sr} Varrini,
“Firenze, N.”

EXTRACTS FROM WRIGHT’S JOURNAL DURING HIS TRAVELS IN ITALY, IN
1774-5.

“Naples.--St. Martino Del Monte. In a Chapel belonging to the Castle of St. Elmo is the famous picture of Spanioletto of a Dead Christ; this picture is esteemed his best. Mr. Forrester bought one of the same in Rome, which is now in the possession of----, and thought equally good. ’Tis well painted and coloured, has great expression and force. In the Church in compartments over the arches are single figures, painted also by Spanioletto, some of them very fine, indeed. I admire his manner, ’tis forcible and natural. This Church of St. Martino Del Monte belongs to the order of Carthusians, which is the richest of all orders, indeed, the riches of this Church prove it. Such elegant things of gold and silver, set with all kinds of precious stones, I never before beheld. In the King’s palace on Capo Del Monte is a very large collection of Pictures, Medals, Cameos, and Intaglios. The famous picture of Titian of Danaë in the shower of gold, is wonderfully painted, but time and varnishes have robbed it of its beautiful colouring, it is now too yellow and spotty. The action is fine and well adapted to the subject, it is better drawn than any I have seen of him.

“In the palace on Capo Del Monte is perhaps the largest piece of Rock Crystal in the world, it is of an irregular shape, one way it is upwards of a yard in diameter, the other about a yard, ’tis very transparent. Here are a great number of Cameos, both single heads and compositions wonderfully fine. Here also is the finest and largest Cameo I ever saw, it is an oval figure, and upwards of 6 inches the longest way. An Holy family by Raphael, small figures very highly finished, the picture very capital. Lord Scarsdale has a copy of it. That sweet little Magdalen lying along on the ground, by Corregio, is here also, as are many others by the same Master.

“In the King of Naples’ palace is a very capital picture of a Holy family, by Raphael, it is finely composed, the Virgin is lovely, and the expression of Jesus and St. John wonderful. It is in his best manner and in good preservation, the Cartoon of it is at the King’s palace on Capo Monte, the size of the picture. At the same place is a very fine portrait of a Pope, by Titian, he is sitting in a chair. It is charmingly painted, with a full pencil, and as far as I can judge the effect is produced without glazing.

“At the palace are two fine oval pictures of Sal. Rosa, the subjects, Banditti, very highly finished, and painted with great force and spirit. A picture of Boys, very good, by Poussin.

“The City of Pompeio, 15 miles from Naples, which was overwhelmed by the eruption of Vesuvius about fifteen hundred years ago (at which Pliny, the elder, lost his life), and which was discovered 15 years ago, seems to me to have been small, at least the houses, rooms, and the street which remain indicate. They have, by the king’s order, dug a good deal of the city, but much remains inveloped in a loose kind of Lava. Parts of buildings intire, with the ornamental paintings on the walls perfect, in style not much unlike some Chinese painting I have seen, together with the Sculls & bones of those that perished there, make a very interesting scene. There is to be seen in one of the rooms in which is fixed a stone vessel for washing in, an intire skeleton of a woman who perished at her work. Whatever is found here, curious or valuable, is deposited in the King’s Museum.

“Herculaneum is at the foot of Vesuvius on which Portici now stands, is 6 miles from Naples, was destroyed probably by the same eruption as Pompeio, the Lava which overwhelmned it is much more hard and compact than that at Pompeio, owing perhaps to its vicinity to the Mountain. The theatre is the only part which remains open, and that is partially so, that one has but little idea of the construction of the whole. They have dug much at Herculaneum and found many paintings & other antiquities which are at the Museum. As Portici stands upon Herculaneum they dug but little at a time, & when they got out the valuables filled up the parts again, that the City of Portici might not be endangered.

“The Museum is the most interesting place I have seen, as it is filled with the ornamental and useful utensils of Herculaneum and Pompeio. Glad I am to find from the observations I have made in these places, that the present age is not so degenerated, either in size or morals as some imagine. The sculls of the old Romans were the size of the present, and from the Chirurgical instruments which are in the Museum, they were liable to the same disorders, indeed there is no doubt but Nature was always the same & will be so ad infinitum. But to return to the contents of the Museum. There are many Bronze heads, one of Seneca, very capital, the rest much inferior. The figures not of the first-class. There is a Satyr lying on a skin of wine, snapping his thumb & finger, the expression very good; also two wrestlers in very fine actions. A sitting figure of a Mercury, sweet attitude. Sculpture good....

“Left Rome the 10th of June, 1775, came to Florence on the 19th, by the way of Narni, Terni, Perugio, &c., 180 miles; part of it a most delightful and picturesque country, of which Claudio has availed himself much. Florence is a pleasant City, the Arno with its Bridges add greatly to its beauty. The one consisting of 3 arches only, is very beautiful. There are a few fine things in Art. The Venus, the Boxers, the little Apollo, the Dancing Faun & the Grinder. Titian’s Venus, Florence, did not answer my expectation; when one has seen Rome, other places suffer by the comparison. Left Florence 4th July, passed over the Appenines, a very wild country, the surface of which is the most broken and irregular I ever saw. Came to Bologna, which is 66 miles, on the 6th. Bologna is a large & well-built City. Its piazzas are very spacious & beautiful, and not less convenient at all times of the year. In the winter it defends you from wet, in summer from heat, which is very great here. At St Agnatis is a picture, by Domenichino, of the _murder_ of that Saint, not good. The Expression weak, the lights of bad shades & not well combined. At the Sampiere Palace is a picture of Guido of St. Peter & St. Paul in his first manner, very forcibly painted. St. Cæcilia, by Raphael, in St. Iovani in Monte, is much damaged and not so fine as I expected to have found it, the figure of St. Paul very fine. A large picture of Ludivico Caracci & one of the woman taken in adultery, some parts of it very good. The birth of St. John, by ditto, very indifferent. At the Carthusian Convent, which is a very elegant one, is the famous picture of Lud. Car. of St. John the Baptist, the character & expression of St. John’s head seems to have been very fine, the other parts of the picture not very good, the whole is much damaged. At the same Convent is a good picture of Guercino. Left Bologna on the 9th and embarked for Venice, had a very fatiguing passage thro’ the Canals, arrived at Venice the 12th, was highly entertained with its first appearance, a City standing in the sea. The chief works in painting are by Titian, Paul Veronese and Tintoret. The large picture by Paul Ver. of the marriage in Canaan has an ill effect altogether, it is a confused multitude. The personages are chiefly portraits, and he has introduced Titian and other Artists his friends as musicians in the centre of the picture; there are in it some heads well painted. In St. Maria Maggiore is the famous picture of St. John in the Wilderness, by Titian, this picture, like most of Titian’s, is grown very brown & dark, it seems to have been finely painted in a broad manner; the drawing is good, as is the action, & the head has a good character. The picture by Do. of the martyrdom of St. Peter, in St. Giovanni e paolo is much damaged, has been a very fine picture, the actions & expressions very natural & spirited. Salute, 3 compartments in the ceiling, by Titian, of David & Goliah, Abraham offering his Son Isaac, and another which I don’t know the subject; all these are finely painted and designed in a Mic. Angelo like style. Church of the Ferari, two Altar pieces by Titian, the one on wood, of the assumption of the Virgin, finely painted, but the colouring is become quite brown, ’tis composed in a sublime manner. St. Marciliano, in the Sacristy Tobia & the Angel by Titian, has been a fine picture, but is much damaged, the Angel fine character. School of St. Roch, on the Stairs is a picture of the Annunciation, by Titian; sweet idea of the Virgin. Jesuits Church, St. Laurence’s martyrdom, by Titian, the figure of the Saint is very grand, the picture is become very dark, and I believe never had the effect of fire. Saw in Venice many pictures of Paul Veronese & Tintoret. Left Venice the 19th, embarked for Padua, had a very agreeable passage by water, the country is well cultivated and populous, along the sides of the Canals and river are a great number of handsome houses, which for miles have the effect of one town. We arrived at Padua, which is 27 miles from Venice, about 7 o’clock the same evening. In the sacristy of the Duomo at Padua is a very fine Madonna & Child, by Titian, sweetly painted, & in good preservation. The head of the Virgin is lovely, & the child is beautifully coloured & painted with more than usual care. Saw several Buildings by Palladio, in very good taste. In the antique Gothic Church, anciently called Maria Maggiore, now St. Antonio, here lies the body of the great Saint in a very fine Altar, ’tis a fine Church with three or four Domes. The great Saloon is a hundred & ten paces long, & eighty wide, the roof is of wood of an Eliptical form. There are great numbers of Giotto’s pictures here. The Room has a noble effect. Left Padua the 20th, at Mezzo Giorno set off for Vicenza, arrived there at night, which is eighteen miles, the next morning set off for Verona, which is 30 miles, where we arrived at night. At Verona is an Amphitheatre, not comparable to that of Rome, but more perfect, having the seats of such part of the building as remains entire. In the center of it is erected a wooden Theatre where they act by daylight. In the Church of St. George is a picture of the martyrdom of that St., by Paulo Veronese, ’tis in good condition, but slightly painted, & in other respects nothing extraordinary. The next morning left Verona & arrived at Mantua at night, which is 25 miles, there’s an Academy for Arts & Sciences lately built, elegant & upon a good plan. Left Mantua on Sunday, 23rd, got to Parma on Monday morning. Here is the famous picture of Correggio. In St. Sepulchre is a Holy family, by Correggio, but so indifferent I could scarce believe it his. The figure of Joseph is as poorly drawn and the drapery as ill set as anything I ever saw, in short there’s nothing good in the picture, nor do I like Correggio in his great works; his figures are but ill drawn, the heads appear large and want character. Left Parma on Thursday morning, got to Piacentia that night, which is 36 miles, it was here that Hannibal, after having passed the Alps for the first time engaged the Romans. Left Piacentia the next morning. Got that night to Avougara, which is 32 miles. The next, 29th July, dined at Allessandria. On the 30th at noon got to Turin. ’Tis curious to be crying out with heat at the foot of the Alps, whose tops are covered with snow. In the King’s palace at Turino is a very large Collection of pictures, many of which are very fine. A man in armour on horseback, as large as life, by Vandicke, very fine. The armour is of dark rich colour, full of beautiful reflections, & the lights most spiritedly touched. By Ditto is a smallish picture of a Madona & Child, the heads very sweet, but the Body & legs of the Child, not fine. A fine Head by Rembrant. Here are a great number of Gerard Dow, very fine, among which is a composition of four or five figures of the Doctor examining his patients. This picture is so wonderfully clear & brilliantly coloured, so astonishingly finished, that it seems to me to be perfection in that style of painting. Several charming pictures of Da. Teniers of Boors, and one piece of witchcraft or Incantation, all delightfully painted with such sober clearness and touched with such truth and Spirit, that one’s pleased & surprized. I forgot to mention Van Dick’s picture of King Charles’ 3 children, which is a capital one, the youngest has great relief without shadow, and such a sweet childish expression as I never before saw. The composition is simple, unaffected, & fine, so is the light & shadow, but the keeping is strong. The whole is very harmonious and has great effect. There is a reddish brown dog wonderfully painted, position fine, & accords charmingly with the fine red drapery of the Boy by whom he stands. This drapery is finely painted the light lies on the body & hips, & graduates very sensibly downwards. The white sattin of the middle girl is much kept down, the little girl is in blue sattin, with gauze linen; several Landscapes by Botts & Berghem, very fine. A small historical picture, by Rembrant, an old head in it, of a most divine Character. Comondear Genevi Genevos at Turin, has a very good Collection of pictures, amongst which was a very fine half-length of a St., by Guido, in his first manner, it is well finished, at the same time spiritedly painted. The head has a fine character. Left Turin, which is one of the most uniform & best built Cities I have ever been in, on the first of August. Crossed the Alps in our way to Lyons, this country is truly sublime. At the foot of Mount Sennis we left our Carriages and took Mules to go over the mountain. Mrs. Wright with little Pop were carried in a chair by six men. We were three hours & half or 4 ascending the mountain, about two thirds of the way is pretty large plain, on which is a Lake about two miles over, here the sight was tremendous, the mountains still rising to an incredible height, hiding their lofty heads in the Clouds, which the winds now & then dissipating shewed partially their hoary towering craggy tops, here it was very cold, and so it was all through Savoy. This Country is mountainous & some parts picturesque. From thence to Lyons is a flat country.”

There is no further account of Wright’s proceedings after crossing the Alps on the 1st of August, 1775. Wright, his wife, and child, arrived at his brother Richard’s, at Derby, on September 26th, 1775.

The little Anna Romana[20] was, with her cousin[21] (who was a month old on that day), christened at St. Michael’s Church, each brother being godfather to the other’s child, and their two sisters being godmothers to both. Little “Pop” was a lively, active child, and did not approve of the proceedings, as she slapped the clergyman in the face.

My own opinion as to the effect of Wright’s visit to Italy is that it increased his knowledge, widened his views of art, and enlarged his style; but this is a very different one from that expressed by the authors of “A Century of Painters.” As this book has a position of considerable authority, I think it right to state my total disagreement with what appears to me the unjust opinion contained in the following extract from Messrs. Redgrave’s work:--

“In 1773 he married, and took that opportunity to visit Italy, where he remained two years, studying, it is said, the works of the great masters, especially those of Michael Angelo, from which he made many copies on a large scale. But however much the works in the Sistine Chapel may have impressed him at the time, they had little influence on his subsequent practice.”

The sketches here alluded to are thirty-six in number, bound in vellum, with “Joseph Wright, Rome, 1774,” written on the side by himself. The book measures 20 × 13 inches; the drawings are outlined by the pen, and broad washes of Indian ink effect the light and shade of the drapery. They are done in a bold and masterly manner, and convey a very good impression of the grandeur of the originals. There is a family tradition that Wright injured his health by over-work when in Rome, and that, for greater ease when working these drawings, he lay upon his back on the cold floor of the Sistine Chapel, and contracted an affection of the liver, which, as years went on, caused him much pain, and prevented him from following his profession for months at a time. On comparing these sketches with various of his pictures, the influence of Michael Angelo upon Wright, especially in design, is evident; and in other respects--such as his choice of subjects, and method of handling--his art changed very much after his return from Italy.

THREE CHILDREN OF RICHARD ARKWRIGHT, ELIZABETH (AFTERWARDS MARRIED
TO FRANCIS HURT), JOHN, AND JOSEPH.

_Original picture in possession of Mr. F. C. Arkwright, Willersley,
Cromford, Derbyshire._]