Chapter XX: Exploring the Rocky Mountains

Lieutenants Saxton and Grover start down the Missouri--March up
the Teton via Sun and Dearborn rivers to Cadotte's Pass--
Description of country; game--Governor Stevens proclaims
inauguration of civil government on summit of Rocky Mountains--
Descending western slope--Big Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers--
Overtakes main party--Fine condition of animals--Bitter Root
valley and river--Fort Owen--Lieutenant Arnold here with train
and provisions--Nine passes examined--Lander's erratic course--
Council with Flatheads--Chief Victor--Lieutenant Mullan
stationed at winter post in Bitter Root valley--Lieutenant
Donelson with main party sent via Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille
Lake--Dr. Suckley descends rivers in canoe--Tinkham to explore
Marias Pass--Proceed to Fort Benton--Cross mountains to Walla
Walla--Governor Stevens moves down the Bitter Root--Meets the
Nez Perces--Crosses the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains--C[oe]ur
d'Alene Mission--Indians--Lake--Falls--Spokane Indians--Spokane
Garry, head chief--Forced ride to Colville--Meeting with
McClellan--His explorations--Dilatoriness--Reports against
country and passes 375

CHAPTER XXI

UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND

McDonald's Indian tales--Chemakan Mission--Settlements in Colville
valley--Visits Spokane House--Garry's Lodge--Arrival of main
party at Camp Washington--March to Walla Walla--Pelouse River--
Crosses Snake River--Rides to old Fort Walla Walla--Visits Walla
Walla valley--Pu-pu-mox-mox--Lander ordered to survey Nahchess
Pass--Descends Columbia to Dallas, to Vancouver--Colonel
Bonneville--Ascends Cowlitz River in canoe--Four days in
drenching rains--Lander balks--Tinkham ordered to cross
Snoqualmie Pass--Officers reach Olympia--Captain McClellan
ordered to run line to Snoqualmie Pass--His failure--Tinkham
succeeds--McClellan aggrieved--Governor Stevens's opinion of
pioneers--McClellan's 396

CHAPTER XXII

ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE

Wild country--Scanty population--Character of settlers--Serious
problems--Governor Stevens arrives at Olympia--Issues
proclamation--Organizes Indian service--Appoints agents--Visits
all parts of Sound--Meets Governor Douglass at Victoria,
B.C.--Reports on Hudson Bay Company's claims--First message--
Halleck exposes Southern political schemes--Purchases
homestead--Preparing exploration reports--Secretary Davis
stops further surveys--Drafts protested 411

CHAPTER XXIII

RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION

Warm welcome in San Francisco--Lectures on Northern route--
Advocates three routes--Via Isthmus to New York--Joyful family
reunion in Newport--Proceeds to Washington--Complete report
of exploration--Deficiency provided for--General Hunt relates
incident--Secretary Davis disparages Northern route--General
Stevens's rejoinder--His final report--Severe labors--Sickness--
Doing the work of the delegate--Appointed commissioner to
treat with Blackfeet and other tribes--Unimpaired influence 425

CHAPTER XXIV

CROSSING THE ISTHMUS

Steamer from New York--Riotous scenes--Stops at Havana--
Aspinwall--Forlorn place--Cars to the summit--Carusi's
pavilion--Scene at night--Proceeds on mule-back--Tropic
rainstorms--Crossing the Chagres River--Lost children--
Panama--Embarks on Golden Age--Touches at Acapulco--Panama
fever--Reaches San Francisco--Welcomed by friends--Delayed
by sickness--Rebuke to General Wool--Steamer up the coast--
Into Columbia--Lands at Vancouver--Canoe trip up Cowlitz
River--Muddy roads to Olympia--Disappointing appearance--
Second message 433