Chapter 7 (1)

THE LADY NELSON AND THE INVESTIGATOR EXAMINE THE NORTH-EASTERN SHORES OF AUSTRALIA.

In the previous chapter it has been told how Captain Flinders arrived at Port Jackson on May 9th, 1802, ten days before the departure of the Naturaliste and how he had brought news to Hamelin of his meeting with the Geographe in Encounter Bay. On his way to Sydney, Flinders had charted nearly the whole of the South Coast of Australia from Cape Lewin to Wilson's Promontory--a small portion only escaping his notice--and had entered and surveyed Port Phillip.

Immediately on his arrival he consulted with Governor King as to the future explorations of the Investigator. They came to the conclusion that it would be injurious both for the ship and for her crew to attempt another survey of the South Coast at that season of the year, and decided that the Investigator, in company with the Lady Nelson, should proceed to the northward along the Australian coast and then to the westward, if it were possible, to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria before the November following when the north-west monsoon might be expected.

There was at this time a very great need of a proper survey of these shores, particularly of the portion which now forms the Queensland coast and of the reefs that skirt it. Since the days when Cook in the Endeavour had discovered these reefs, except when Flinders sailed to Hervey Bay in 1799, little had been done to make this part of Australia better known, although in the vicinity of the Great Barrier Reef both land and sea were alike dangerous to seamen and disasters were of frequent occurrence. Cook himself had met with a mishap in these waters, and Flinders afterwards was totally wrecked on the inner edge of the Great Barrier Reef. Consequently, in agreeing to Flinders' proposal, King was conferring a real benefit upon the whole of the shipping community. It was also decided that in the event of Flinders' progress being retarded, or if he were unable to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria, he should either explore Torres Strait or return and survey Fiji. Eventually, however, it was found possible for him to carry out the exploration of the Gulf.

Mr. Westall, landscape painter, with Mr. Robert Brown, botanist, and other scientists, sailed in the Investigator. Bungaree, the Rose Bay native who had accompanied Flinders on his voyage in the Norfolk to Hervey Bay also went with him as well as a Sydney black fellow named Nanbury. Murray was given a code of signals for the Lady Nelson and was directed by Flinders, in case of the ships being separated, to repair to Hervey Bay, which he was to enter by a passage between Sandy Cape and Breaksea Spit said to have been found by South Sea whalers.

The two ships left Sydney together on July 22nd, 1802, but the Lady Nelson was soon in difficulties, and was left astern at Port Stephens. Shortly afterwards the Investigator lay to, to await her coming. On Saturday 24th--writes Flinders, "our little consort being out of sight we stood an hour to the southward, and not seeing her in that direction bore away along the coast." Meanwhile on the afternoon of July 26th, Moreton Island at the entrance of Moreton Bay was passed, and on Wednesday the 28th, Flinders reached Sandy Cape where he immediately began to seek for a passage into Hervey Bay. One was found but proved too shallow for the Investigator to pass through, so the ship was brought to two miles from the Spit.

On the 30th the Lady Nelson came up with the Investigator anchoring near her at sunset. After leaving Sandy Cape, Captain Flinders found that the trend of the land differed noticeably from that laid down by Cook in his chart. On August 7th Port Curtis was discovered and on the 21st Port Bowen, but by October 17th, when off the Cumberland Isles (a group off the east coast of Queensland in 20 degrees south), the Lady Nelson had become so unfit for service that she had to be sent back to Sydney.

The vessels at the time were within the Great Barrier Reef, and Flinders states that he kept the brig with him until a passage out to sea clear of the reefs could be found. "It is a matter of much concern to me," he writes to Banks,* (* See letters of Flinders to Banks. Add. manuscripts, British Museum.) "that this navigation could not be surmounted without such a loss of anchors to both vessels and of damage...to the Lady Nelson in the loss of her main keel and the damage done to the trunk." It was also found that her capacity of beating to windward, never great, was much reduced. And again in his journal he says, "the Lady Nelson sailed so ill and had become so leewardly since the loss of the main and part of the after keel that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost." Therefore, much as he desired the aid of the small vessel, Flinders decided to proceed on his voyage alone.

Soon after he had separated from Flinders, Murray, in order to spare the Lady Nelson's sole remaining anchor, gave orders for two swivel guns crossed, to be lashed together, and when winds were light and waters smooth, he anchored with the swivels until the carpenter was able to make an ironbark anchor to take their place. In the following pages Murray relates the full story of the Lady Nelson's voyage both when she was with the Investigator and also after the two ships had parted company.

WITH THE INVESTIGATOR.

THE LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY IN COMPANY WITH H.M.S. INVESTIGATOR.

"Thursday, July 22nd, 1802. Preparing for sea. At 2 P.M. the Investigator made the signal for all persons to return on board. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail down the harbour: by 1/2 past 7, cleared the Heads; 1/2 past 9 North Head of Port Jackson, south-south-west distant 18 miles.

"Friday, July 23rd. At 4 P.M. the Coal Island bore north by east 15 or 16 miles and the South Head of Port Stephens north-north-east 20 or 22 miles...Received orders to keep ahead during the night and show a light now and then, steering north-east by east. At 8 spoke the Commander who told us to keep in his wake.

"Saturday, July 24th. At half-past 5 P.M. the Commander made the signal to come within hail, spoke him and was ordered to keep near him during night.

"Sunday, July 25th. From noon until 11 P.M. gale continued with a high sea which continually broke on board. At daylight we perceived from the land that a southern current ran so strong that we were nearly in the same place as at noon...

"Monday, July 26th. Standing down along shore. By 4 P.M. saw what we supposed was a ship and supposed it to be the Investigator, accordingly stood in for her, but a squall of rain coming on hindered our seeing her; fired a gun but no answer was received, at 8 fired a second gun with a light at the masthead but got no answer...Bore north-north-east and to our surprise by midnight found ourselves close to a very high head of land which owing to being covered with clouds we did not before see.* (* Point Danger.) Turned up the hands and made all sail and by 1 A.M. with much difficulty we cleared it...

"Monday, July 27th. At 2 P.M. Solitary Islands bore west by north distant 7 miles.

"Wednesday, July 28th. At 1 P.M. Mount Warning bore west by north distant 15 or 16 miles...At daylight saw the land from west-south-west to N.W.S., noon the northern end of Moreton Island bore west by north distant 5 or 6 leagues.* (* Flinders examined Moreton Bay and Pumicestone River in 1799 but Oxley made the discovery that Point Lookout was situated on Stradbroke Island and that Moreton Bay extended as far south as 28 degrees where it communicated with the sea.)

"Thursday, July 29th. At 8 A.M. Double Island Point bore north-west by west about 5 or 6 miles. Stood into Wide Bay in hopes of finding the Investigator there, as we stood round the northern end of Double Island saw a number of natives who waved their hands to us; all round the bay were numbers of fires. In the mouth and on the south side of Wide Bay* (* Coast of Queensland.) lie two rocks with bold water round them, not laid down in the chart, and those rocks bare from the north end of Double Island north-east by north distance 1 1/2 miles.

"Friday, July 30th. At 5 P.M. the north extremes of the land bore north 1/2 east distant 15 or 16 miles. Observed numerous natives all along the coast. At sunrise Indian Head bore north-north-west distant 3 miles, as we neared it, counted 25 natives on it. Made all sail for Sandy Cape and by 11 A.M. entered a passage between two reefs, at the same time from the masthead saw the Investigator bearing north-west distant about 10 or 11 miles.* (* The Investigator had anchored under Breaksea Spit about 9 miles north-north-east from Sandy Cape.)

"Saturday, July 31st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. on the turn of tide sent the boat ahead to tow, hove up, and made all sail; cleared the shoals that surrounded this reef. The Investigator standing down to us sent a boat with the Master on board to give assistance if wanted, at half-past 4 P.M. ye Commander came to; at 5 P.M. we also came to in 4 fathoms of water--bottom fine sand and waited on ye Commander. At half-past 6 A.M. hove up and made sail in shore and at half-past 8 A.M. came to near enough to cover the landing of the boats of both vessels. Captain Flinders and a number of the officers and gentlemen landed and I went on shore with an armed party in order to get wood. In a little time Captain Flinders and his party were joined by about 30 of the natives all of whom laid down their arms and we continued on friendly terms with them all the time the parties were on shore. Captain Flinders made them presents of red caps, tomahawks, etc. with which they were much pleased and gave back some baskets and nets. With respect to the persons of these natives, I perceived little or no difference from the Sydney blacks; their language is much different, as Bungaree could not understand a word they said.* (* "These people were entirely naked but were more 'fleshy' than those at Port Jackson perhaps from being able to obtain a better supply of fish with "scoop nets" which are not known on the southern coast. A species of pandanus grew here in abundance and the valleys contained trees of the Casuarina and Eucalyptus." Flinders.)

"Sunday, August 1st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. the gentlemen with their parties returned to the beach. We all embarked in the Investigator's boat, got on board the Lady Nelson; at 3 P.M. came to in 5 fathoms, Captain Flinders then left us. At 7 P.M. the Commodore weighed; hove up and followed him with all sail. At noon saw the looming of Sandy Cape east by south 7 or 8 leagues.

"Monday, August 2nd. Fine weather. At 1 P.M. Commodore on our lee beam 2 miles; quarter past 5 P.M. the Commodore came to, at half-past we came to under the stern of the Commodore. At 6 A.M. got under weigh. At 10 A.M. answered signal to come within hail, the Commodore desired we would keep in shore of him.

"Tuesday, August 3rd. Fine weather. At 4 P.M. Bustard Bay bore west-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. On this point a very large fire was burning and numbers of natives were there. Hauled in for the Bay and shoaled our water; came to in 5 fathoms water. At sundown lowered down small boats and waited on the Commander. At 6 A.M. made sail with the Investigator, passed the first rock lying off the western point of Bustard Bay.

Wednesday, August 4th. At half-past 3 perceived one of the Investigator's boats to be adrift, bore away to pick her up. At sundown the western extremes of the land bore west-south-west distant 15 miles. At 8 P.M. passed the stern of the Commodore who hailed us and told us he would tack every two hours during the night. At daylight saw the land bearing south-south-east. At noon the northern point of Bustard Bay bore south-south-east distant 4 or 5 leagues.

"Thursday, August 5th. Kept slipping along the land. At half-past 6 P.M. having run under the stern of the Commodore came to.* (* "This anchorage was 5 or 6 miles from Gatcombe Head and the chain of hills which rises near Bustard Bay was seen to stretch westward behind the shore at the back of Mount Larcom. These hills had a barren appearance, the coast being more rocky than sandy." Flinders.) At quarter past 10 A.M. the Commodore made signal I see an opening, answered ditto. Immediately after answered signal "steer in shore and look out for anchorage." Observing numbers of natives and canoes on the beach, kept running in. At quarter past 10 A.M. beheld from our masthead a large sheet of water with a rocky island in the entrance and seemingly got shelter.* (* Port Number 1 in the chart is Port Curtis so named by Captain Flinders after Sir Roger Curtis.) At 11 A.M. came to in 3 fathoms water and made the signal to the Commodore "come no nearer in," and he came to--lowered down our boat, I went and sounded in shore and found the water to deepen to 8 fathoms. Waited on the Commodore, received orders to follow his boat into the harbour--sent our people to heave up. At noon one of the Investigator's boats went on shore to the beach where the natives and their canoes were.* (* "There were seven bark canoes lying on the shore and upon a tree near hung parts of a turtle and scoop nets similar to those at Hervey Bay." Flinders.)

"Friday, August 6th. At 1 P.M. hove up and run further into the opening. I then went on shore to a small rocky island on which Captain Flinders was taking angles and we got some firewood. I went in Captain Flinders' boat across to a middling high hill* (* Called in the chart Hill View.) on the opposite side of this stream, got to the top and saw that the sheet of water ran into several serpentine branches and that apparently the deepest water was to the south-east of us; and that this south-east entrance and the one in which we lay formed a pretty large island lying in a north-west and south-east line. We joined the boat and sounded in a traverse to ascertain whether it was possible for the Lady Nelson to move higher up. We found however only from 3 to 5 feet of water and foul ground throughout a narrow space through which the vessel must pass. In consequence of which Captain Flinders desired me to get under weigh and work round the island to the south-east entrance and to find a channel into the harbour. Accordingly weighed, by 7 P.M. passed the Investigator. At daylight made all sail to gain the entrance and by 9 A.M. nearly fetched it, from the masthead at the time I saw a long range of breakers from the entrance stretching away south-east to east-south-east which made me to be in some doubts as to an entrance existing, however I sent Mr. Hacking in the boat to sound and almost immediately we struck on a sandbank. Immediately hove up our keels and she luckily veered round in 6 feet of water and went off although we still had no more water for some time, it then gradually deepened into 6 fathoms. Fired a gun for the boat who got on board by noon and informed me that a good channel did exist, and from where we were it lay about south-south-east and may be 3/4 of a mile broad--out sweep and sent the boat ahead to tow.

"Saturday, August 7th. Fine weather. Standing into the entrance south-south-west. On putting our helm to starboard we immediately had from 1 1/2 3, steering west-north-west, the Investigator on our beam bearing about north-north-east distant 8 miles, and finding our water suddenly to shoal came to in 2 fathoms and observed that a little way ahead lay a long sand sheet almost dry. Tripped our anchor and run into 5 fathoms water and there came to.* (* Off South-trees Point.) Fired a gun as a signal to the Commodore; observed a boat under sail a considerable distance from us in a westerly direction which I fancied was Captain Flinders in his whaleboat examining the harbour. At sunrise had out our launch and sent the First Mate in her with an armed party in search of water.

"Sunday, August 8th. After dinner I went in the small boat to examine an opening on the South shore of the harbour and to look for water of which I found some, on proceeding about a mile and a half up the opening perceived it branched into several different directions. I imagine it runs some considerable distance up into the country. On returning to the vessel I found Captain Flinders with a midshipman and boat's crew on board.* (* "The country round Port Curtis is over-spread with grass and produces the Eucalyptus. Much of the shores and low islands are overspread with Mangroves--the most common being the Rhizophora Mangle of Linn." Flinders.) At daylight Captain Flinders left us desiring me to get under weigh as soon as possible and get round to the Investigator. In working down we sounded constantly and found from 10 to 4 fathoms on each side, a safe channel for any ship and sufficiently broad to work in.

"Monday, August 9th. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and made sail out of the harbour tacking occasionally. At 4 P.M. our boat came on board from Faceing Island having found water in small quantities. By 6 P.M. we weathered the south-east point of Faceing Island and stood down towards the Investigator. At 15 past 7 P.M. struck on some sunken reef of rocks about 2 miles from the shore but immediately heaving up all our keels she went over them into deeper water without any damage.* (* See August 22nd. Half of the main keel was afterwards found gone.) At half-past 8 P.M. fired a gun and hoisted a light at the masthead which was answered by the Investigator. By midnight came to with the small bower about 2 cables lengths from the Commodore. At daylight hoisted in our boat, on the Commodore getting under weigh, we did the same. At half-past 9 A.M. passed in between the Rocky Island and Cape Capricorn. At half-past 10 Captain Flinders hailed us and told us to try for a passage in between some rocks and the main of Keppel's Bay. At 50 minutes past 11 A.M. perceived all foul ground ahead in this passage, hauled out and informed the Commodore. At noon bore up for the western part of the Bay, Cape Capricorn bearing east by south distance 10 or 11 miles.

"Tuesday, August 10th. At half-past 3 P.M. came to one cable length from the Investigator, lowered our boat and I waited on Captain Flinders. At half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders, some of his officers and I went on shore. On ascending one of the highest hills,* (* Named by Flinders Sea Hill.) we perceived the bay to be very extensive with several openings. Here we found a fresh water swamp and saw some ducks and redbills. At sundown Captain Flinders and party returned on board, and Captain Flinders came on board. Weighed and made all sail up the bay. Come to in 3 fathoms a large island in the mouth of the bay North distance 7 or 8 miles.

"Wednesday, August 11th. Saw Captain Flinders come out of the entrance he yesterday went into and stand along the south shore of the bay.

"Thursday, August 12th. At 3 P.M. Commodore made the signal "I want to speak to you." Immediately got the vessel under weigh and by half-past 4 P.M. passed his stern when he hailed us to come to an anchor a little distance from him. I waited on Captain Flinders who told me that at daylight I was to get under weigh and proceed to a large island* (* Hummocky Island.) (one of Keppels) and overhaul it for turtle for the use of both vessels and to get the bearings of all the islands in sight from the top of the said island as also to find whether there were wood and water upon the island. When we anchored Outermost Rock east-south-east 2 miles.

"Friday, August 13th. At 1 P.M. I went on shore to the island, on examining the beaches and rocks no water was found. I ascended all the hills and walked from one to the other nearly the whole length of the island but found no water or wood. The hills are covered with thick shrubbery and grass and full of stones, from the top of the highest part of it and looking towards the sea no more islands are to be seen than those we saw coming in. On going down to the rocks that lead to the beach we fell in with some slight drains of fresh water and further discovered two chasms in the rock, in each there might be 150 or 200 gallons of water but the difficulty of getting it to a boat hinders it being of use to vessels. On the west side is a small bight with a sandy beach in its centre but the bottom is loose and always a swell tumbling into it, indeed anchorage all round it is indifferent.

"Saturday, August 14th. By 4 P.M. having run nearly into our anchorage by the Investigator came to in 5 fathoms water. Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders was not yet returned from examining the harbour.

"Sunday, August 15th. Fine weather throughout. Received orders to be ready to get under weigh at daylight to-morrow morning.

"Monday, August 16th. At sundown observed all the seamen on liberty from the Investigator and Lady Nelson coming along the beach accompanied by a number of natives. Immediately Lieutenant Fowler and some of the gentlemen of the Investigator along with myself went on shore but on seeing us they began to run; however on all the seamen being sent away they suffered Mr. Brown to go near enough to reach them a few red night-caps and a tomahawk.* (* "I offered a boat to the botanists to visit South Hill. A part of the Ship's Company was allowed on shore for no Indians had been seen, but towards evening about 20 were seen with the sailors. They had been met near Cape Keppel and at first menaced our people, but finding them friendly laid aside their arms." Flinders.) They then made signs to us to be gone. They began running and were soon out of sight. These natives are a much stouter class of people than any I have yet seen (those of Jarvis Bay excepted). On returning to the beach Mr. Evans, mate, and one of the seamen belonging to the Investigator were missing. Lieutenant Fowler and the rest of the gentlemen waited until dark in hopes of their appearing and then went on board and a boat with a midshipman was immediately sent to wait at the beach but as neither appeared the boat returned. In the morning two guns were fired from the Investigator as signals and we saw two boats go to shore we supposed to search for those missing.

"Tuesday, August 17th. Seventeen of the natives came down to the beach. On seeing them a number of the officers of the Investigator went on shore. I also went.* (* Captain Flinders took a boat to Cape Keppel in order to obtain bearings.) We continued on friendly terms with them all day, and it is worth remarking that they having met Mr. Evans and the one seamen led them down to the beach and even gave them a duck each to eat on their making signs of their hunger. We had a drum, fife and fiddle on shore with us but on playing and beating they signified their displeasure and some of them ran off but on our ceasing returned. We made them presents of caps, tomahawks, etc., but they would give nothing in return. Their spears and waddas are much the same as at Sydney, they don't use the throwing stick. At daylight weighed. Came to again.* (* It took the whole day to get into the offing. A sketch of the island and of Cape Keppel was made by Mr. Westall while beating out of the bay. "After the mangrove the most common trees round Keppel Bay are the eucalyptus and a species of Cycas bearing poisonous nuts. There are Kangaroos in the woods and several bustards were seen near Cape Keppel. About the native fireplaces were the shells of crabs, the bones of turtle and remains of fern root." Flinders.)

"Wednesday, August 18th. At 1 P.M. hove up in the company with the Investigator tacked occasionally. By 4 P.M. cleared the bay and at 5 P.M. fell calm. Came to with kedge Cape Capricorn bearing south-east by east 13 or 14 miles, Cape Keppel south-south-east distant 5 or 6 miles and a large inhabited island, one of Keppel's, north-north-west distant 6 or 7 miles. At daylight again in company with Commodore made all sail. By noon passed abreast the northernmost Keppel's Island. Observed two natives on the highest part of it bellowing to us, no canoes in sight. Latitude 23 degrees 4 minutes 37 seconds south.

"Thursday, August 19th. Fine weather. Answered signal "Steer in shore and look out for anchorage" a bluff head making with the low land of the main like an entrance. As we stood in shoaled our water to 7 fathoms, made the signal to that purport. Saw a sand shoal ahead; the Investigator immediately hauled off and we did the same, saw plainly no anchorage was there, stood in and by 5 P.M. we dropped our kedge, at half-past 5 P.M. the Commodore also came to near us. At sundown the easternmost of Keppel's Islands bore south-east by east distant 10 or 12 miles the shore point south distant 2 miles. At 7 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator.

"Friday, August 20th. At sundown the Commodore bore north distant about 3 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island north-north-east 1/2 east distant 4 miles, and two rocky islands north-east by east distant about 3 miles. At quarter-past 9 P.M. saw a light in the north-west quarter and heard a gun fired. Immediately hoisted a light in the main top gallant masthead and fired a gun; heard no second gun. At 12 passed a low island bearing east distant 3/4 of a mile. At daylight perceived we were much farther from the land than the Log gave. Commodore not in sight. Latitude observed 22 degrees 41 minutes 28 seconds south.

"Saturday, August 21st. At half-past 4 P.M. saw the Investigator bearing north-north-west, at sundown the Investigator bore north-west by north distant 10 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island bore west by north distant 4 or 5 miles, the Low Island south-west by west distant 3 or 4 miles. At quarter past 8 P.M. heard a gun fired from the Commodore which we answered. At 9 P.M. heard a second gun fired which we answered. At daylight made all sail to come up with Commodore. At 20 past 11 came to with small bower in 7 fathoms.

"Sunday, August 22nd. A.M. Sent the First Mate and a party to water and wood the vessel; hoisted our main keel* (* That is the middle centre board.) out of the trunk and found half of it gone, this must have been occasioned by the shock it received at Faceing Island on Monday 9th instant, when running down to the Investigator. It also accounts for her not sailing so fast as formerly. A.M. Received one boat-load of water. I went on shore to the watering-place, it lies between two hills of a considerable height and springs out of a rock--the water is both good and clear, it is convenient to be got at.* (* The ships anchored in Port Bowen or Number 2 Port, named by Flinders in honour of Captain Jas. Bowen of the Navy, and the hilly projection on the side of its entrance, Cape Clinton after Colonel Clinton of the 85th Regiment. "The water was very good. It drained down the gully to a little beach between two projecting heads. The gully will be easily known, but Mr. Westall's sketch will obviate any difficulty. There were pine trees in the gully, but the best were on Entrance Island, some being fit for topmasts. I was surprised to see trees (upon Hervey Isles) resembling the pines of Norfolk Island." Flinders.) Latitude (good) observed 22 degrees 28 minutes 58 seconds south.

"Monday, August 23rd. Reported our main keel to Captain Flinders being gone.

"Tuesday, August 24th. P.M. Hoisted in our launch and secured everything for sea. At daylight weighed and made sail in company with the Investigator. By half-past 7 A.M. got out of the bay and at 11 A.M. came to Pine Island bearing south by east 1/2 east. Distant 1 1/2 miles. Hope Point south by west 6 or 7 miles and the northern entrance south-south-west 2 miles.

"Wednesday, August 25th. At 2 P.M. weighed in company with the Investigator and made all sail. At 7 came to...At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator, worked to windward until 10 A.M. when the Investigator came to in the offing and we came to...between Rocky Island and the main, Rocky Island bearing north-east by north distant 2 1/2 miles...the nearest of the Pine Islands, south-east by east distant 3 miles.

"Thursday, August 26th. At 3 P.M. the Investigator lifted her anchor and worked to windward. At half-past 4 P.M. saw a native fire ahead. At daylight weighed with a light air at north-west. By 6 A.M. the Investigator got close into an opening (seeming a large bay* (* Shoal Water Bay or Number 3 discovered port. See Flinders.)) and hoisted out 2 boats, at 8 A.M. she bore up for the entrance and we followed without sweeps rowing. At half-past 8 A.M. observed the Investigator to anchor and shortly after we were obliged to drop our kedge close to the rocks of the south-eastern entrance. I went on shore with a small party.* (* On this day Mr. Westall made a drawing of Shoal Water Bay and the islands here. Flinders named a high hill Mount Westall in compliment to his landscape painter.) I saw on the beach the footmarks of natives and the tracks of turtle, but nothing else worth mentioning. Apparently this is a place of very huge extent and safe for shipping. Latitude observed 22 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds south.

"Friday, August 27th. At 2 P.M. the tide having somewhat slackened and a breeze of wind coming from the north-east weighed and made all sail up the bay; by half-past 2 P.M. having passed the Investigator by about a quarter of a mile came to in 6 fathoms water. At 40 minutes past 2 P.M. the vessel swung to the flood and in half an hour its rate was found to be 3 1/2 knots per hour, it increased from that very nearly 5 knots and its rise 11 feet.* (* This place was named by Flinders Strong Tide Passage.) At 6 P.M. one of the Investigator's boats got upset under our stern and one man thrown into the water by the accident. He drifted down with the tide and our boat picked him up with some of the boat's gear. At 6 A.M. got the vessel under weigh and let her drift up the bay with the tide having from 6 to 10 fathoms and from that to 5 and 8 where we anchored. The Investigator anchored a little before us. From where we lay the east point of bay bore north 47 degrees east.

"Saturday, August 28th. At 2 P.M. I received orders to get the vessel under weigh and proceed up the bay--half-past 2 P.M. weighed and made sail, the Investigator following us. At half-past 3 P.M. perceived the Investigator to be aground in consequence of which we let go our kedge and I went in the boat ahead. At 5 P.M. on the Investigator floating; again got under weigh, kept standing up the bay sounding and making signals. At 6 P.M. anchored with the small bower in 5 fathoms of water.

"Sunday, August 29th. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and moved up a little further, sounding from 3 fathoms to 7, where we anchored. Latitude observed 22 degrees 20 minutes 56 seconds south.

"Monday, August 30th. At 4 P.M. in company with the Commodore made sail a little further up the bay; we perceived a shoal nearly dry on the south-east end, it seemed to lie nearly in that direction for perhaps two miles. Waited on Captain Flinders who desired me to send our main keel on board in order to be repaired and at the same time he informed me that he would be on board in the morning and move the Lady Nelson for the examination of the bay. At daylight sent our keel on board and at half-past 6 Captain Flinders came on board, immediately weighed and made all sail to the south-east part of the bay. At half-past 10 entered a large branch or arm of the bay or river following Captain Flinders in his boat steering east and east-south-east we anchored per order of Captain Flinders and he continued on in his boat.* (* Flinders went two miles up the river, landed, and took a set of angles here. He describes an islet with "signs of visits of the natives" and on the main, in low grounds, were holes where they dug for fern root. An iguana 2 or 3 feet long was the sole animal killed, but the mud banks here were frequented at low water by various sea birds.) Double Peak* bore 1/2 west by south. (* The Double Mountain of Flinders in Shoal Water Bay is not the Double Mountain shown on his earlier chart inland from Hervey Bay.)

"Tuesday, August 31st. At half-past 2 P.M. Captain Flinders on board, and he began to work out of the branch. At 6 P.M. the tide being down came to...at daylight weighed and made sail to south-east, passed here a flat of mud with only from 8 to 9 feet water on it; by 7 A.M. having got nearer to the south shore found a channel that had from 2 to 9 fathoms.

"Wednesday, September 1st. At 7 P.M. Captain Flinders, a midshipman and boat's crew on board. A.M. Dropped our small bower it blowing fresh. At 5 A.M. hove it up again, and the wind blowing strong from north-west and tide done, hindered our working down to the Investigator.

"Thursday, September 2nd. At half-past 12 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward with the ebb tide in our favour; at half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders and his people left us; continued until 7 P.M. working to north-west and there came to in 7 fathoms. At daylight weighed and stood over to the Investigator and at 7 A.M. came to lowered down boat and I waited on Captain Flinders, he informed me that the Investigator would get under weigh at 9 A.M. and would run over as near to the bottom of Sugar Loaf Hill* (* Pine Mountain (of Flinders) described by him as "a single round hill with a high-peaked top standing inland 2 miles from the West Bight and composed of the greenstone of the German mineralogists.") as the water would permit and requested I would run ahead of him in the Lady Nelson and show soundings quick. Passed the Investigator astern, Captain Flinders hailed and desired me to stand up towards Sugar Loaf Hill until we had left less than 6 fathoms, did so and as it almost immediately shoaled to 4 fathoms wore round and made all sail to work back.

"Friday, September 3rd. At half-past 1 P.M. came to with small bower and I waited on Captain Flinders.* (* Flinders was then one mile from the shore and 2 from Aken's Island, the east end of which bore north 27 degrees west.) A.M. Hauled the seine, caught no fish and the ground being foul damaged the net.

"Saturday, September 4th. Waited on Captain Flinders who told me he shortly intended to weigh in order to proceed to Thirsty Sound and at 10 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator. Since our arrival here on Thursday the 26th August few native fires have been seen and only once some of the Investigator's gentlemen had intercourse with a party of natives on the shore. From their report those natives are inferior to the natives of Keppel Bay...and if we may guess from their lean appearance much worse off with respect to food; the soil of all this part of the country appears to be very indifferent and for a considerable distance from shore, low swampy mangrove clay. All round the bay are high hills, on one of the westernmost tall pines seem in abundance, the bottom is invariably blue clay...From the number of shoals lying in this place it is necessary to keep the lead constantly going, and from the great rise and fall of the tide to be careful not to anchor in less than 5 fathoms...we have experienced some sea riding at anchor the fetch being pretty extensive.

"Sunday, September 5th. Standing through Northumberland Islands towards Thirsty Sound.* (* Thirsty Sound, Hervey and Bustard Bays among other places on the coast were named by Captain Cook.) At dusk the entrance of Thirsty Sound west by south distance 3 miles, Sugar Loaf Hill, or hill of Pines,* (* The Pine Mount of Flinders.) south-east by east and the Investigator east-north-east distant three-quarters of a mile. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator made sail in for the entrance. Received our new keel from the Investigator, and on trying to fit it to the case found it obstructed from going down by some of the copper being rubbed off and having got into the trunk, this was found to be the case by one of the people who dived under her bottom.* (* The carpenters had for some time been employed in making a sliding keel for the Lady Nelson from the pine logs cut at Port Bowen, and being now finished it was sent on board. Flinders.)

"Monday, September 6th. A.M. On ascending the hill, named by Captain Cook the Pier Head--had a fine view of this and Broad Sound, the former appearing like a serpentine river to a great way inland and its banks showing apparently a fine country. A number of the adjacent hills are covered with long sunburnt grass that appears at a little distance like a heath or common at home, with here and there a small cluster of palm trees. Traces of the kangaroo have been seen. We have neither seen natives, their fires, nor marks here. No water has yet been found, wood is in plenty.

"Tuesday, September 7th. At 3 P.M. I received orders to get under weigh and move out ahead of the Investigator...At 5 P.M. weighed and at half-past 6 P.M. came to...At 5 A.M. finding she drove, let go our small bower. At 6 A.M. perceived the Investigator attempting to weigh, on which we (after some difficulty) weighed and began to work to windward. Observed the Investigator to drop her anchor again and clew down her sail. Came to in 6 fathoms with the small bower. Answered signal "I want to see you." Immediately went on board the Investigator and Lieutenant Fowler informed me they had parted a Bower Cable, that, their Stream not bringing her up, a second Bower was gone and that they were in 1/2 2 fathoms water, as the tide was rapidly falling it was obvious that she immediately must be got off. For this purpose I immediately, according to Lieutenant Fowler's plan, returned on board, veered away on our small bower to the end and let go our best bower; we then received a warp from the Investigator, made it fast on board and she was enabled to heave off into deeper water by the Lady Nelson. At noon she dropped her bower a little from our stern, cast off her warp and lifted our best bower...

"Wednesday, September 8th. Cloudy weather. At half-past 9 A.M. the Investigator shifted her berth into the stream...At half-past 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Commodore made all sail out of the Sound. At noon a large island in the entrance of Broad Sound south distance 5 miles, and the Investigator east distance 1 mile.* (* At this time the ships were within 2 miles of the north-east point of Broad Sound.)

"Thursday, September 9th. Stretching across Broad Sound, at half-past 1 P.M. suddenly shoaled our water at the same time saw the appearance of broken water ahead. At 2 P.M. spoke the Commodore who told me to steer west. A round mount north-west by west distance 3 miles. At 11 P.M. came to in company with the Commodore with best bower in 7 fathoms water. In the course of the forenoon saw several native fires on this part of the coast. Latitude observed 21 degrees 51 minutes 00 seconds south.

"Friday, September 10th. At 2 P.M. weighed and made sail to the south-east sounding from 1/2 3 at low water to 1/4 less 2 on the edge of a sand shoal on which the Investigator touched but immediately swung off, we continuing. At half-past 5 A.M. perceived the Investigator to be getting under weigh, made all sail down to the Commodore. Spoke him; he told me to work between the main and one of Northumberland Islands, and said he would follow us. Stood on to windward and tacked occasionally anchored in company with the Commodore at half-past 11 A.M. under a pleasant little island.* (* "The 4th flat Island is about one mile long and there is a smaller lying off it's south-east end. They are a little elevated and bear grass and small trees, but the shores are covered with mangroves and surrounded with flats of mud and sand." Flinders.) Observed Captain Flinders to go on shore, shortly afterwards I went on shore, some turtle shells were seen and the marks of natives of an ancient date. It appears that the whole of the distance between the Pier Head at Thirsty Sound and to the round mount before mentioned between the Northumberland Islands and the main has a number of sand shoals that can only be avoided by keeping the lead constantly going and a good lookout at the head otherwise a vessel would get aground, and the water falling so much and so rapidly would leave her high and dry...

"Saturday, September 11th. At 6 A.M. weighed ill company with the Investigator but she (on account of the shoals that lye off from the mainland to the island we anchored under) was obliged at 7 A.M. to drop her anchor. In the Lady Nelson we crossed the shoal in only 9 feet immediately on being over it we fell into 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. Again crossed it and ran up to the Investigator at 9 A.M., the flood having made strong over the shoal again.

"Sunday, September 12th. At quarter-past 5 P.M. tacked and stood on ahead of the Investigator until we were close to a very extensive sheet of mud lying all the way from the mainland. At this place an inlet of shoal water appeared to run a good distance into the country. At sundown tacked in company with the Investigator and stood off. At 8 A.M. tacked and stood into an inlet with several dry lands appearing in it, found a good strong flood against us. At half-past 9 A.M. came to.* (* "At 9 A.M. passed a fifth opening: anchored abreast of a hilly projection which I have named Upper Head." Flinders.) Lowered our boat and I went on shore with a couple of hands. Saw or found nothing worth notice--the soil is sandy, the shores lined with mangrove trees and inland a little distance we found gum trees and the palm; a few curlews and redbills were shot.

"Monday, September 13th. At half-past 8 weighed as per signal in company with the Commodore; found when near the Investigator the water suddenly to shoal from 6 to 3 to 1, where we touched the ground, however on heaving up our keel she went off into 2 fathoms, when we came to, observed the Investigator to ground, she was caught on a bank of quicksand in 11 feet at half-past 10 A.M. she floated, a little after Captain Flinders went away inshore, sounding. Several native fires in sight in different directions.

"Tuesday, September 14th. At half-past 1 P.M. made sail in company with the Investigator and worked to north-west where we anchored. On passing her Captain Flinders hailed us and told me to be ready at 8 o'clock in the morning to proceed to the south-east up the arm on Broad Sound. At 8 A.M. Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown on board. At half-past 8 A.M. weighed and made sail, at 40 minutes past 10 A.M. grounded in 8 feet of water, at 40 minutes past 11 A.M. weighed and made sail across the entrance of the river. From noon until 40 minutes past 1 P.M. stretching across the flats of this arm, sounding from 9 feet to 3 1/4 fathoms, where we anchored. Immediately moored with the kedge which in a little time she brought home, moored with the bowers per cable one way and 25 fathoms the other, found the tide of ebb to run at 4 P.M. 5 knots and 6 fathoms. At 5 P.M. we began to touch the ground and perceived that our main keel was gone, part of it coming up alongside. Sent some of the people out to look in what situation our anchor lay and it was found that the best bower had come home and the small parted 12 fathoms from the ring. I conclude the ragged part of the main keel must have done it when she swung in ground, we tried in vain with 10 or 11 hands to lift it out of its bed. As the whole of this part of the flats are quicksands with a strong suction, bent a good warp to its crown to weigh it by when the tide rose. At half-past 1 A.M. the flood came to us with much noise and about a foot high, in 15 minutes we floated and hove up to our best bower. By 5 A.M. began again to ground, by 6 A.M. fast: at half-past 7 A.M. Captain Flinders went in his boat in search of deeper water and found one place nearer inshore where he thought it advisable to shift the Lady Nelson to, when the tide would permit. Upon the south shore we saw several native fires.

"Thursday, September 16th. At 2 P.M. loosed sails, sheeted home and hoisted them, weighed and stood in shore. Found the strength of the tide here to be 3 1/2 knots.

"Friday, September 17th. At half-past 5 P.M. Captain Flinders returned having found the arm to terminate in shoals of sand. At 3 A.M. weighed and made sail in order to join the Investigator but by half-past 4 A.M. we grounded and there were obliged to lye from the ebb falling so fast. Captain Flinders, Mr. Brown and the boat's crew left us. Here we had an opportunity of looking at the vessel's bottom, the sand being firm. Found one sheet and a half of copper torn off her garboard streak, one off the starboard bow, and on the bows the anchor had torn the copper in some degree; from the want of copper nails could not repair those hurts until we joined the Investigator.

"Saturday, September 18th. At 2 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward...anchored near the Investigator. A.M. I waited on Captain Flinders and was advised to lay the Lady Nelson on shore in order to repair her copper; in consequence of which Lieutenant Fowler and I went to examine a sand inshore of the vessels and finding that sand fit for the purpose, reported the same to Captain Flinders; got our main keel out of the trunk, found 4 feet of it gone and also 4 feet of the after keel carried away.* (* "The Lady Nelson...required some reparation, I therefore desired Lieutenant Murray to lay his vessel on shore and get these matters arranged to cut wood and be ready to sail in a week for the Torres Strait." Flinders.)

"Sunday, September 19th. At half-past 6 A.M. weighed and ran into 5 feet water. At half-past 8 A.M. the Investigator weighed and stood to the eastward. At 9 A.M. we grounded; by noon we were able to replace part of the copper torn off her bottom.

"Monday, September 20th. Fine weather throughout. By 3 P.M. she floated, weighed, ran into 5 fathoms water and anchored. At 6 A.M. weighed and grounded.

"Tuesday, September 21st. At 3 P.M. she began to float, by 4 hove her off, weighed and ran into 5 fathoms water where we anchored. A.M. Sent a party on shore to cut wood. Investigator still in sight.

"Wednesday, September 22nd. A party on shore cutting wood and stuff for brooms. A.M. Received on board two boat-loads of wood; sent a party after kangaroo, some were seen at a distance but none were shot. Shifted the fore keel aft and the after one (when we had repaired it as well as we could) forward. The main keel we could not make fit after our carpenter had worked on it several days, I rather suppose the trunk is injured in its inside.

"Thursday, September 23rd. Set up our rigging and stays fore and aft; sent the carpenter on shore to cut spars to fit our several guns on.

"Friday, September 24th. Fine weather, moderate winds throughout. A.M. Perceived the Investigator under weigh standing over to us.

"Saturday, September 25th. The Investigator in sight working towards us; at half-past 8 A.M. she came to an anchor within half a mile of us. I waited on Captain Flinders and informed him we were ready for sea.

"Sunday, September 26th. The Investigator struck her tents on shore. Received from her gunner half a barrel of gunpowder and one quire of musket cartridge paper, and 17 fathoms of old rope for lashing beams.

"Monday, September 27th. At half-past 6 A.M. Weighed in company with the Investigator made all sail to the north-west. We were both obliged to come to; the wind freshening, we weighed, but it again dying away we anchored. At half-past 9.A.M. made sail.

"Tuesday, September 28th. At half-past 3 A.M. weighed in company with H.M.S. Investigator and made sail to northward. At 6 A.M. spoke the Commodore and received orders to keep ahead. A high island we passed this morning south by west distant 12 or 14 miles,* (* North Point Island.) a high short island under our lee north-west by west distant 10 or 11 miles. Long high land on our weather bow north-east by north distant 11 or 12 miles.* (* Percy Islands.) Latitude observed 21 degrees 52 minutes 41 seconds south.