Chapter V: Letter I: SIR, Berlin, June 6, 1729 (1)

From _Breslaw_ to _Berlin_ 'tis 40 _German_ Miles of very even Country, well peopled and cultivated. There are I know not how many little Towns in the Road, not worth mentioning.

The first Place of any Importance is CROSSEN. This City is the Capital of the Dutchy from whence it has its Name, which formerly made a Part of _Silesia_, but is now annex'd to the Electorate of _Brandenburgh_. There's a Bridge at _Crossen_, by which we pass the River _Oder_, defended by Fortifications. The Town is situate in a pleasant fruitful Country. The Houses, which are all of Brick, are uniform, and the Streets as strait as a Line. The chief of them terminate in a great Square in the middle of the Town, where there is a Statue of the King of _Prussia_. The River _Oder_ is of great advantage to the Commerce of _Crossen_, which carries on a considerable Trade in Linnen-Cloth and Earthen Ware.

Going out of _Crossen_, we pass this River by a Bridge, as we do a second time over to FRANCFORT, a considerable City of the Marquisate of _Brandenbourg_, famous for its Fairs, and its University. This City has stood the Shock of various Revolutions. It was put under the Ban of the Empire by the Emperor _Charles_ IV. for having disobey'd his Orders; and the Inhabitants to make him easy were forc'd to pay him down 12000 Marks of Silver, which at that time was an immense Sum. In 1631 the _Swedes_ besieg'd and took it by Storm, when they put all the Inhabitants to the Sword in reprisal for the Massacre of 2000 _Swedes_, whom the Emperor's General Count _Tilly_ had inhumanly put to death in the City of _Brandenbourg_. By the Peace of _Munster_, or _Westphalia_, which establish'd the Tranquility of the Empire, _Francfort_ was restor'd to the Elector of _Brandenbourg_ its lawful Sovereign.

Here is a University founded by _Joachim_ I. (Margrave of _Brandenbourg_) in 1506, which is very much frequented by the _Silesians_, and by the _Hungarian_ Protestants.

There are two Fairs a Year at _Francfort_, which render it a trading City, and its Commerce consists in Linnen-Cloth, and Fells.

'Tis ten Miles from _Francfort_ to _Berlin_, and a flat sandy Country. The Road leads thro' _Munchenbourg_, a little Town chiefly inhabited by the Descendants of _French_ Men, who left their Country upon the Revocation of the Edict of _Nantes_.

The nearer one comes to the Capital of _Brandenbourg_, the more sandy is the Soil, yet the Country produces plenty of Corn and Fruits.

BERLIN is the common Residence of the King of _Prussia_, and one of the largest, best built, and best govern'd Cities in all _Germany_. The Streets are spacious, strait, neat and well pav'd. The Situation is advantageous; for tho' it lies in a very sandy Soil, yet it is encompass'd with agreeable Gardens producing Fruits and excellent Pulse, and its Commerce is much improv'd by the River _Spree_; which passes thro' the City, and has a Communication with the _Havel_, the _Oder_, and the _Elbe_.

The _French_, who for the sake of Religion became Refugees, have contributed in an extraordinary manner to the Establishment and Aggrandisement of _Berlin_, by the establishing of all sorts of Manufactures, and the introducing of Arts into it; and it may be said of them, that they have omitted nothing to testify their Gratitude to the Elector _Frederic-William_ and his Posterity, for the generous Reception which he gave them in his Dominions.

_Berlin_ is divided into five Wards exclusive of the Suburbs, which are very extensive. I will run thro' these Wards in the Order of their Situation: But before I do this, I propose to shew you what is most remarkable in the Suburbs; where the Houses are generally of Timber, but so well plaister'd that they seem to be of Stone; and the Streets are broad, lightsome and strait.

In the Suburb of _Spandau_ the Queen has a delightful House and Gardens. The House is called _Monbijou_; a very proper Name for it, because 'tis really a Jewel. 'Tis a Pavilion, the Apartments of which are laid out with Art, and furnish'd with great Judgment and Elegance. The Gardens are charming, and lie finely open to the River. This House was built by the Countess _de Wartemberg_, Wife to the Prime Minister of King _Frederic_ I. As her Husband's Power and Favour were at that time so great, that he did whatever he pleas'd, all the King's Workmen and Architects us'd the utmost Diligence to serve her well. But she did not enjoy this fine House long; for it was scarce compleated when the King removed the Count from all his Employments, and banish'd him to _Francfort_ on the _Maine_. However, he settled a Pension upon him and his Lady of 24000 Crowns, and the Countess by way of Acknowledgement gave the King this House, which of all the immense Treasure that she had amass'd, was the only Piece that she cou'd not carry with her. The King gave this House to the Princess Royal now Queen, who has added great Embellishments to it, and brought it to its present State of Perfection.

In the Suburbs of _Stralau_ is the House and Gardens of _Belvedere_, belonging to the King. _Rollé_ Superintendant of the Finances to the Elector _Frederic-William_, caus'd this Garden to be made, in which he laid out considerable Sums; and as this Minister was at other very great Expences, it so impair'd his Fortune, that he was oblig'd to throw up all and retir'd to _Holland_; and being very much in debt to the Elector, his Garden was forfeited to that Prince, who made a Present of it to M. _de Fuchs_, one of his Ministers. King _Frederic_ I. purchas'd it of the latter, and after having embellished it, made a Present of it to the Queen his third Wife; but that Princess's ill state of Health obliging her to retire to _Mecklenbourg_ her Native Country, _Belvedere_ became neglected.

Near this Royal House is the magnificent Gardens of _Craut_, who from a Boy behind the Counter rais'd himself by his Industry to the Post of Pay-master General of the Army, and at length to that of Minister of State. He was to have been call'd to account in his last stage of Life, but he cunningly diverted that Storm by feigning himself Lunatic; and dying, he left an immense Estate, part of which fell to the King by way of Restitution, and the rest to his Nephew, who makes a grand Figure at _Paris_.

I enter'd _Berlin_ thro' that call'd the Gate _Royale_, which has had that Name ever since the Day that _Frederic_ I. made his Entry there, after his Coronation at _Koningsberg_ in _Prussia_. This Gate is defended by a Half-Moon, and two Bastions fac'd with Brick, and fronts that call'd the Street _Royale_; one of the longest and most frequented in all the City. There are very fine Houses in it, particularly that of M. _de Catsch_, a Minister of State, that of _Grumkau_, and the Post-House, which last Building was begun by order of the late King, for his Favourite the Count _de Wartemberg_, who was hereditary Post-Master.

Thro' the Street _Royale_ there run fine, spacious and beautiful Streets. The first is call'd _la Rue du Cloitre_, in which we see the Royal Manufactory. _Frederic_ I. who bought it of the Heirs of the Marshal _de Flemming_, established an Academy of Nobles there; so that, on the Payment of three hundred Crowns, they had Lodging, Provision, and Instruction in every thing that it's natural a Man of Quality shou'd know. This Establishment existed a few Years, but sunk at last meerly thro' the Neglect of Persons whose Business 'twas to take care of it. The present King has chang'd this Fabrick into a Work-house, and allowed Lodgings in it for several Woollen Manufacturers.

Adjoining to the Royal Manufactory, there are public Warehouses, which were established and built by the late King; and being destroyed by Fire, the present King caus'd them to be rebuilt. Opposite to the Warehouses stands the House of M. _de Creutz_, Minister of State; which has fine Apartments, and is very neatly furnish'd. Higher in the same Street there's the House of M. _Duvaine_, a _French_ Man by Birth, and Lieutenant-General of his _Prussian_ Majesty's Forces: And contiguous to his House, which makes a fine Appearance, is the _Calvinists_ new Church, a Structure rais'd after the Model of _Grunberg_, an Architect who had before acquir'd a Reputation, which did not suffer by his Contrivance of this great Fabrick: The Front of it is magnificent, but the inside plain, as are all the Churches of the _Calvinists_, which you know don't admit of Images. The subterranean Places or Catacombs, for interring those that worship here, are worth seeing. Several Persons have been interr'd there of great Note, particularly _Casimir de Colbe_, Count _de Wartemberg_, Prime Minister, Great Chamberlain, Master of the Horse, Post-Master-General, Protector of all the Academies in the Dominions of the King of _Prussia_, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle. Being banish'd in 1711, to _Francfort_ upon the _Maine_, where he died the Year following, he ordered that his Corpse shou'd be carry'd to _Berlin_; and his Will was accordingly fulfill'd. He was so dear to King _Frederic_ I. that he was very loth to part with him; but was, as it were, compell'd to it by a Cabal, who oppos'd his Ministerial Authority; tho' he was provok'd at the Insolence of _Wartemberg_'s Wife, and at his mean Submission to her. The King made an Offer to him afterwards, by the Count _Christophle de Dohna_, (who was then his Ambassador at _Francfort_, for the Election of the Emperor,) to come and resume his Employments, on condition that he wou'd not bring his Wife with him; but _Wartemberg_ refus'd, saying, he was engag'd in honour not to forsake her. Perhaps he was very glad of this Excuse for not returning, because he had once experienc'd the Vicissitude of Fortune, and knew well that he had been too powerful a Man not to be hated. King _Frederic_ I. who was desirous to see his Funeral pass by, cou'd not refrain Tears; which undoubtedly was the greatest Character that he cou'd give of his Minister.

Next to the Count _de Wartemberg_'s Tomb, is that of _Henrietta de Pollnitz_, Wife to _Francis_ Count _de Duhamel_, the _Venetians_ Generalissimo. Her Husband dying in the _Morea_, this Lady return'd to _Venice_, proposing to go and end her Days at _Berlin_, where she was born; but while she was performing her Quarantain she died, after desiring her Body to be carry'd to _Berlin_; which was accordingly done by two of her Nephews, and one of her Nieces, whom she made her Heirs. There is also the Tomb of the Count _de Denhoff_, Lieutenant-General of the King's Armies, Knight of his Order of the Black Eagle, Minister of State, Governour of _Memel_, and Ambassador at the Treaty of _Utrecht_, where he acquired a high Reputation among the foreign Ministers. The Marshal _de Villars_, who had known him at _Vienna_, when he the Marshal resided there in the quality of Minister, to take care of the Affairs of _France_, said to me one day, speaking of the Count _de Denhoff_, that the King of _Prussia_ cou'd not do enough to reward the Count's great Merit. _If he wou'd have been rul'd by me_, added he, _he wou'd have been in the Service of the King my Master_.

The second Street that crosses the Street _Royale_, is the _Jews_ Street, which runs into the Square _Molcke-Marck_; where the Hotel _de Schwerin_ makes a fine Appearance. Within a few Houses lower down, there's a Manufactory of Gold and Silver Lace, which one _Schindler_ has established with good success: This House belong'd to the Wife of M. _de Wensen_, Marshal of the Court to King _Frederic_ I. but she resign'd it as part of Payment of a Fine, to which her Husband had been condemn'd by the Count _de Wartemberg_, then prime Minister; who confin'd M. _Wensen_ in _Custrin_ Castle, because he had presum'd to represent to the King that the Table of the prime Minister, which was served by his Majesty's Cooks and Butlers, was more expensive than his Majesty's own Table. _Wensen_ however, upon the Payment of this Fine, obtain'd his Liberty, and was banish'd to his Lands in the Dutchy of _Zell_.

In the middle of _Molcke-Marck_ is the Statue of _Frederic_ I. Father to the present King, with a Crown on his Head, and a royal Mantle on his Shoulders. The Statue was cast by order of _Frederic_ I. himself, who intended to have it plac'd in the Court of the Arsenal; but dying before it cou'd be brought about, the King his Son caus'd it to be set up where it now stands, which is indeed a much better Place for it.

The _Spandau_ Street, which is the third that crosses the Street _Royale_, contains the Town-House, and other fine Buildings: The Street _St. Esprit_ is altogether as beautiful, as is the Kay, which fronts the Castle or Palace of the King. Upon this Kay we see the House of the Baron _de Vernesobre_, whose Ancestors being _French_ Protestant Merchants, settled at _Koningsberg_ in _Prussia_. He was in _France_ at the time of the _Mississippy_ Plague, which, tho' so fatal to others, prov'd so fortunate to him, that he gain'd several Millions of Livres, with which he came and set up at _Berlin_, where he has taken to building, having purchas'd the Estate of _Hohensihn_ from Monsieur _de Borstel_, one of the best Gentlemen of the Country, procur'd himself the Title of Counsellor of State, and cuts a Figure now among Persons of Quality.

The Churches of St. _Mary_, St. _Nicholas_, and that belonging to the Garrison, are as magnificent as any of the Protestant Churches. St. _Mary_'s has a beautiful Spire. When _Frederic_ I. made his royal Entry here, at his return from his Coronation, a Man ascended to the Globe of this Spire, and saluted the new King by flourishing a pair of Colours. The Church of the Garrison was founded by the late King, but was very much damag'd some Years ago by the blowing up of a Magazine of Gun-Powder in the Neighbourhood, just as they were removing it to a safer Place. King _Frederic William_ has caus'd it to be rebuilt with more Magnificence than before. The Organs are very fine, and the Galleries very well contriv'd.

That Ward of _Berlin_ which I have now run through, is separated from that of _Coln_ or _Cologne_ by the River _Spree_, over which there are four Bridges, whereof there is one of Stone, call'd the _Pont-neuf_. _Frederic_ I. in imitation of the _Pont-neuf_ at _Paris_, famous for the Statue of _Henry_ IV. caused the Equestrian Statue of his Father, the Elector _Frederic-William_, to be erected upon this Bridge, with very great Pomp and Splendor; for no Prince in _Germany_ strove more than he did to copy _Lewis_ XIV. in Magnificence and every thing else. When this Statue was dedicated, the Count _de Lottum_, who was then Grand Marshal of the Court, accompanied by most of the Courtiers on horseback, and by the City Companies, assisted at the Ceremony, which was performed with an _Apparatus_, till then unknown in _Germany_ upon the like Occasions; but had been practised at _Paris_, when the Statue of _Lewis le Grand_ was erected in that City.

This entire Monument was design'd by one _Jacobi_, who after several Years Labour and constant Application to it, has brought it to its present State. This skilful Operator has represented the Elector in a _Roman_ Dress, and in an heroic Stature; that is to say, above the natural Size. The Statue is placed on a magnificent Pedestal of white Marble. At the four Corners of the Base, are placed as many Slaves in Brass, who seem as if they were chain'd to it.

When one has pass'd the Bridge, the King's Palace offers itself to view; a great and stately Fabric, which _Frederic_ I. began in the Year 1699, and a worthy Monument of that Prince's Magnificence, who was of Opinion, that of all the Sums expended by Sovereigns, those which they lay out in Buildings are least liable to Censure. And indeed Magnificence is well bestowed, and even Profusion seems justifiable in Architecture, because grand Edifices are the principal Ornament of any State.

The Palace has been the Workmanship of several Architects; the Name of the first was _Schluter_, but he not giving Satisfaction was dismiss'd, and went into the Service of the Czar _Peter Alexiowitz_. Whatever he did is extremely incumber'd with Ornaments which have not a due Proportion. His Successor was _Eosander_, a _Swede_, who is a Lieutenant-General in the Service of the King of _Poland_: He was oblig'd in some measure to pursue what _Schluter_ had begun; so that if he has not come off well every where, he has at least that for his Excuse. The third was _Bot_, a _Frenchman_, and now General Officer in _Poland_; who without dispute was a much better Artist than the others. Every thing that he has done is more simple, yet more grand, noble, and complete.

These three Architects having gone upon different Plans, you will easily imagine that the Fronts are not perfectly regular; yet for all this, had the Palace been finish'd according to the Models approv'd of by the late King, it wou'd have been inferior to no Edifice for Grandeur and Magnificence, except the _Louvre_ of _Paris_. King _Frederic-William_ does not think fit to carry on this Building, but leaves that Honour to his Son, the Prince Royal.

As to giving you all the Particulars of this vast Palace, you will be so good as to excuse me: Be satisfied if I only tell you, that it consists of four Stories: The Apartments are large, have fine Cielings, and are royally furnish'd. In no part of the World did I ever see such a prodigious quantity of Plate, Tables, Stands, Lustres, Chandeliers, Screens, Looking-Glass Frames, Couches, Arm-Chairs, all of Silver. The late King left Plate to the value of two Millions eight hundred thousand Crowns, not reckoning the Fashion. In that call'd the Knights Hall, there's a Beaufet which takes up one intire side of the Room, where there are Cisterns and Basons Silver gilt, of an extraordinary Size.

The Furniture of the grand Apartment is very rich; there's a fine Gallery adorn'd with Pictures, the Cieling of which was painted by one _Peine_, a _Frenchman_, who in divers Compartments has skilfully represented the principal Actions of King _Frederic_ I. At the End of this Gallery there's a Saloon, which was formerly magnificent to the last degree, being wainscotted, if I may so call it, with Amber: But the late Czar coming on _Berlin_ in his return from _Holland_ and _France_, and not a little admiring this Furniture, which was the only thing of its kind, the King made him a Present of it: so that what had been amass'd with great Care and Cost by several Electors, fell in one Day into the hands of a Nation, which, no longer ago than the beginning of the present Century, was reckon'd Barbarian.

The Palace had fine Gardens belonging to it before they were destroy'd, and converted into a Place of Arms, and a Parade for the Guards.

Hard by the Palace are the King's Stables, a very grand Building, facing the great Street. The Architecture without is _Gothic_, but the inside is more magnificent; the Stables are broad and spacious, very lofty, and very lightsome: the Mangers are of Stone, and the Pillars which mark the Stands for the Horses, are of Iron, and adorn'd with the King's Cypher, gilt: Over the Mangers are several great Pictures of the finest Horses that ever came out of his Majesty's Studs. The Backside of the Stables projects towards the River _Spree_, to which they can lead the Horses by a Stair-Case without Steps, built in the form of a Horse-Shoe.

The Main Body of the House contains grand Lodgings for the Master of the Horse, and the Officers under him. Over the Stables are great Rooms where they keep a deal of fine Furniture, both for the Horse and Mule; magnificent Sleds, with convenient Harness, adorn'd with Bells of Silver, or Silver gilt; a great number of fine Arms; the rich Accoutrements of the Horse which serv'd _Frederic_ I. on the Day of his public Entry; all the Ornaments of the Bridle, the Breast-Leather, and Crupper, as well as the Bits and Stirrups, being of Gold adorn'd with Brilliants.

Over the Riding-House is the great Theatre, where, in the late King's time, Interludes and Comedies us'd to be acted before the whole Court; but the Opera of _Roxana_ and _Alexander_ was the last that was acted on it. It was play'd in 1708, upon the Marriage of King _Frederic_ I. with _Sophia_ of _Mecklemberg_. In 1706, an Interlude was acted there, on account of the Arrival of the Princess Royal, now Queen; intitled, _Beauty triumphing over Heroes_; at which the Markgraves _Frederic-Albert_ and _Christian-Lewis_, the late King's Brothers, danc'd, with all the young Courtiers.

As we go farther down the great Street, we come to the Fish-Market, where is the Hotel of the City of _Cologne_, and _Dorffling_'s Hotel occupied by the Count _de Finck_. This Family is oblig'd for its Rise to the Marshal _Dorffling_, who from an Apprentice to a Taylor rais'd himself by his Valour and Merit to the highest Posts in the Army. The Story goes, that when he had serv'd his Apprenticeship at _Tangermunde_, having a mind to go to _Berlin_, he came to a part of the Country where he cou'd not proceed without crossing the _Elbe_, but not having wherewithal to pay his Passage, the Ferry-Men refus'd to carry him over; which so vex'd him, that he threw his Knapsack into the River in a Pet, curs'd the Trade of a Taylor, and went back to _Tangermunde_, where he listed himself a Soldier. There being a War at that time all over _Germany_, it was no difficult matter for the young Warrior to find an Opportunity to shew his Courage; and he signaliz'd it in such a manner, that his Officers, who were all in love with him, strove to advance him, and therefore made him known to the Elector _Frederic-William_. This Prince who lov'd, rewarded, and was a good Judge of Valour, did not depend upon what Fame reported of him; but in order to see his Officers and Soldiers fight with his own Eyes, conducted them himself to the Enemy, and very soon took notice of _Dorffling_. He saw him at every part of the Field where there was Honour to be won: He saw he was a sensible industrious Fellow, that he hated Parties and Cabals, and that he had that _Germanic_ Probity which was the distinguish'd Virtue of our Forefathers, but which we now content ourselves with admiring. The Elector observing such a Stock of Virtue in _Dorffling_, thought him deserving of his Favour, advanc'd him to the tip-top Employments, and made him very rich. Envy, which is as old as the World itself, and which like that, never stands still, made several of the Courtiers jealous of the Fortune or rather the Merit of _Dorffling_, and there were some who did not stick to say, that if the Marshal came to be ever so great a Nobleman, he wou'd always retain the Air of a Taylor. This being carry'd to _Dorffling_, _True enough_, said he, _I was a Taylor, and I have cut out Cloth; but now_, said he, clapping his Hand to the Hilt of his Sword, _I have an Instrument in my Hand, with which I'll cut off the Ears of any Man that slanders me_.

This brave Fellow liv'd to a great Age, and left a Son who was one of the King of _Prussia_'s Lieutenant-Generals, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons, but died without Issue. He had not quite the Vivacity of his Father, but he had his Honour and Integrity.

Going out of the Fish-market, as we turn to the right, one perceives the _Lutheran_ Church of _St. Peter_[2], which is a considerable Structure; and then we come into that call'd the _Fryars_ Street, the Houses of which are all well built. In this Street stands the Palace where the _Aulic_ Council meets, which in _France_ they call the _Parlement_; 'tis here that all Civil Causes are try'd, and from thence there lies an Appeal to the King's Council.

Beyond the Palace there is a Square, on the Right side of which there's a Church with a Cupola which belongs to the _Calvinists_, and is look'd upon as the Cathedral of _Berlin_: For you know that the late King made two Bishops, one in _Prussia_ and the other at _Berlin_, and they were the Prelates that crown'd him. They are since dead, and the present King lets their Sees lie vacant. In this Church is the Tomb of the Royal Family. There's a great Row of Buildings over against it, which consists of several uniform Houses belonging to Merchants, and supported by stately Arches with Shops under them, where are sold all sorts of Goods. Turning round by that Piazza, brings one to a second Branch of the River, which divides the Ward of _Coln_ from that of _Werder_. This River, which has three wooden Bridges over it, is confin'd in a Canal lin'd with Freestone, and form'd by two fine Kays.

The most considerable Edifices in the Ward of _Werder_ are the Royal Custom-House, so commodiously situate that Boats can come up close to it: The _French_ School, and their Church, which is serv'd by able Ministers; some of whom, as the late M. _Lenfant_ (Author of the celebrated _History_ of the _Council of Constance_, &c. and Chaplain to the King of _Prussia_) M. _de Beausobre_ and M. _Jacquelot_, &c. have acquir'd a Reputation in the Republic of Letters. The Royal Hunting-House is a large magnificent Structure for lodging the great Huntsman and all his inferior Officers: There too is the great Dog-Kennel and the Magazines for all the Hunting Equipage. Near this place is the Hotel or Palace for Ambassadors, where are likewise entertain'd such Foreign Princes as are not of a Rank high enough to be accommodated in the King's Palace. This Hotel belong'd formerly to the Baron _de Danckelman_, Prime Minister to King _Frederic_ when he was only Elector, and being built by the said Minister at a time when he was such a Favourite that he did almost what he pleas'd, he spar'd no Cost to render it a Mansion worthy of his high Station. I was assur'd by Persons of Credit then alive, that after it was built, the late King had a Desire to see it, upon which occasion M. _de Danckelman_ made a great Entertainment for him; and that while the Queen and the whole Court were dancing, the King retir'd into his Minister's Closet, to have a private Conference with him; and looking very earnestly on a certain Picture there, M. _de Danckelman_ told him, that Picture and all that he saw would soon be his Majesty's. The King not knowing what he meant, desir'd his Minister to explain himself; whereupon he made answer, 'That he shou'd very shortly incur his Displeasure; that his Fall wou'd be attended by the Forfeiture of all his Estate; that he should be arrested and committed to the _Spandau_ Prison; and that there he should be confin'd ten Years, at the Expiration of which his Innocence wou'd be made to appear, his Estate wou'd be restor'd to him, and he shou'd be taken again into his Majesty's Favour.' The King, who was at that time very fond of his Minister, and did not think he cou'd ever do without him, ridicul'd what he had said as the Surmise of a Visionary, and was going to swear by the New Testament then upon a Table in the Room, that this sad Prophecy wou'd never come to pass. But the Minister held his Hand, and begg'd him not to take an Oath which it wou'd not be in his power to keep.

I tell you this Story just as I had it from a Lady of Quality to whom the King himself told it: But in short, let the Story be as it will, 'tis very certain that M. _de Danckelman_ was disgrac'd, committed Prisoner to _Spandau_, and from thence remov'd to _Peitz_, without any Companion but his Wife, who generously desir'd to suffer Imprisonment with him. His Confinement lasted much longer than he had prophesy'd, and when at length he obtained his Release, he was not restor'd to his Employments, nor even to his Estate. 'Tis said indeed that the present King, who on his Accession to the Crown sent for M. _de Danckelman_ to _Berlin_, offer'd him the Ministry; but that the Baron excus'd himself by reason of his great Age and his tedious Imprisonment, which had made him lose the Connection of Public Affairs. This Minister died lately, having lived to the Age of fourscore. His remarkable Disgrace, and fifteen Years Confinement in a Prison, had not sunk his Spirits, nor shock'd his Constancy of Mind; and one shall scarce meet with an Instance in History, either before or since, of more Merit and more Misfortune in one and the same Person. He was a passionate Admirer of Learned Men, and a Rewarder of Virtue. In a word, by the Disgrace of this Great Man, the State lost a faithful disinterested Minister, and Men of Learning lost a _Mecænas_, full of Zeal and solid Knowledge, who never fail'd to support by his own Authority, and to procure a Reward from his Master, for all Persons that apply'd to him with any Proposal that was useful and uncommon.

To go from the Ambassadors Hotel to the New Town, one must pass before the House belonging to the Governour of _Berlin_[3], who is at present the Marshal Count _de Wartensleben_; a Nobleman whose Virtues, long Services, and great Age, challenge Veneration. The House he lives in was built by order of the Elector _Frederic-William_, for the Reception of the Marshal _de Schomberg_, who resign'd the Battoon of the Marshal of _France_ to _Lewis_ XIV. after that Prince had revok'd the Edict of _Nantes_, and came with a numerous Retinue of Gentlemen, to desire Employment under the Elector. Accordingly that Prince gave him the Command of his Troops, but the Marshal quitted that Employment, to accompany the PRINCE of ORANGE to _England_, in his famous Expedition against his Father-in-Law; and he likewise attended that Prince to _Ireland_, where he acquir'd great Glory, but was kill'd in passing the River _Boyne_.

The _Governour's House_ is separated by a great Square from the _Arsenal_, which is one of the compleatest Fabrics in _Europe_, and was built according to a Model design'd by _Bot_, whom I mention'd to you before; which skilful Architect has, upon this occasion, equalled any thing that was ever done by the famous _Bernin_.

The intire Structure consists of four main Bodies of Building, which form a spacious Quadrangle in the middle. The lower Story is of Rustic Architecture, with arch'd Windows. There are three great Porticoes at the Entrance to each Front. Over the principal Gate there's the Picture of the late King, in a great Medal of Brass. The four Cardinal Virtues of a Gigantic Size, are plac'd on Pedestals by the Portico, and seem to look towards the King's Effigies, which is supported by Fame and Victory. The _Corinthian_ Order prevails throughout the first Story, and is very artfully executed. A Gallery or Ballustrade runs round the whole Edifice, and is adorn'd with Trophies and Statues, particularly a very perfect one of _Mars_, sitting upon a Heap of Arms of different sorts; and the Decoration of all together is noble and majestic. Studs of Iron in form of Cannon are plac'd at proper Distances, and support Iron Chains, hung in Festoons, which hinder People from clambering up to the Windows.

The Inside of this _Arsenal_ is as magnificent as the Outside. The lower Rooms are stor'd with a great number of Brass Cannon. The Walls and Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd with Cuirasses and Helmets. In the upper Story there are several Rooms full of Arms, rang'd in such Order as can never be enough admir'd.

Behind the _Arsenal_ there's the House of the General of the Ordnance, which also contains the Foundery, where Men are continually at work.

Besides this _Arsenal_, there are several others in _Berlin_, where they keep Field-Pieces, Iron Cannon, and all that belongs to the Train of Artillery. 'Twas the late Margrave _Philip_[4], Brother to _Frederic_ I. who when he was Great Master of the Ordnance began to put the King's _Arsenals_ into a good State. But King _Frederic-William_ has finish'd what his said Uncle began, and has put the Artillery on such a footing, that 'tis a question if any _Arsenal_ in _Europe_ is on a better Regulation.

A Rampart and a Ditch separate the _Werder_ from the _Dorothy-Stadt_, or new Town, which is for most part inhabited by _French_ Families. It had the Name of _Dorothy-Stadt_ in honour of the Electress _Dorothy_ of _Holstein-Glucksburg_, the second Wife of _Frederic-William_, who with her own Hand planted the first Lime-Tree of the seven great Rows which divide this Ward into two Parts. The middlemost Row, which is the widest, is inclos'd with Ballustrades, and forms a pleasant Grass-Walk for Foot-Passengers. The Walks on each side are pav'd, and serve as a Ring for the Coaches. Nothing is more beneficial and agreeable than taking the Air in this Place, where you may have any thing that can be desir'd in a City. At the end of one of these Walks is a Gate which opens to the Park, the Walks of which being above a League in length, form a fine Point of View.

On both sides the Lime-Tree Rows, are Houses, among which the Palace of Madame the Margravine, Dowager[5] to the Margrave _Philip_, Brother to the late King, is one of the best. The late Margrave purchas'd this Palace (which at that time was inconsiderable) of the Wife of _Weiller_ Colonel of the Artillery, who had thrown up his Employments, Wife, Children and all, to go with a Lady of Quality, that was in love with him, to _Vienna_. This Gentlewoman pass'd for a modern _Sappho_, and every body talk'd of her Virtue and good Sense. But being a Slave to the Follies of Love, and asham'd to let them be seen at _Berlin_, where she was counted an Oracle, she resolv'd to quit the Place of her Birth, and engag'd her Lover to leave all and follow her.

The Margrave made considerable Augmentations to this House, and render'd it very commodious. The Furniture of the Palace also is rich, and worthy of the Princess who resides in it.

Opposite to the Margravine's Palace is a Building which was formerly call'd the King's Little Stables, but has been metamorphos'd into Caserns for the Gendarmery; they discover the Magnificence of _Frederic_ I. who caused them to be built. The Apartments that run over the Stables are occupied by the Academy of Painters, and that of Arts and Sciences. Behind the Stables there's the Observatory, with a great number of Astronomical and Mathematical Instruments, of which there are many of a new Invention.

_Frederic-Stadt_, which is the fifth Ward of _Berlin_, communicates with the New Town and the _Werder_. This is one of the pleasantest Wards in the whole City, the Streets being spacious, strait, and planted with Lime-Trees[6].

Perhaps I have dwelt too long upon the Metropolis of the Electorate of _Brandenburgh_; but I thought that as there had been no true Account yet given of this City, you wou'd not be sorry to have it from me.

The next day after my Arrival here, I had the Honour to see the King, who was then seeing his Soldiers mount guard. He is a Prince of a middling Stature, and in very good Plight of Body: His Air commands Respect; yet, when he pleases, no Prince in the World can be more gracious. I heard him speak to his Officers in such a kind manner as cou'd not but charm them; I admir'd his Genius for military Discipline, and perceiv'd that with the Glance of an Eye he cou'd discover the least Fault committed against that wonderful Exactness which is introduc'd in the Evolutions of his Troops. After the Guards had perform'd their Exercise, the King stay'd to see them file off. I never yet saw Troops march with more Order and State, so that it seem'd as if they were all mov'd by one Spring. All the Soldiers are young, of an even Stature, and the cleverest Fellows that Nature ever form'd: they are well cloth'd, and have such an Air of Neatness, that even the private Centinels might all pass for Officers. I remember you was prejudic'd against their Clothing; their Clothes you said were too strait, and too short. I was of your Opinion once, and think so still, when I happen to see one of their Officers and Soldiers singly among us, who wear Night-Gowns rather than Coats; but when I see a whole Body of _Prussians_ together, I am of another Opinion, and think their Dress gives them a warlike Air which other Troops have not. You will tell me perhaps, that the Clothing of the _Prussians_ is good in a Garrison, but that in the Field their Garments are not wide enough to cover the Soldiers in the Night. I answer, that the _Prussian_ Soldiers are in no danger of not being cover'd, because when they are in the Field, every Captain is to carry as many Coverlids, as there are Comrades in his Company. But you'll say, this must be a very great Incumbrance, and take up a deal of Equipage. 'Tis true, it may require two Sumpter Horses in a Company, but a Soldier fares the better for it; because when he goes wet into the Camp, he can get his Clothes dry'd in the Night while he is under his Coverlid. After all, the Incumbrance is no greater at present, for those Troops, than it was at the time when all the _Prussian_ Infantry had Cloaks, which the Soldiers wore, was the Weather ever so hot, folded over their Shoulders, and ty'd both before and behind by their Belt. If they had any hasty March to make, such as I saw they made in _Flanders_ in 1708, when they went to attack the _French_ near _Audenarde_, the _Prussians_ left their Cloaks behind with a Guard, and when the Battle was join'd, the Captains were oblig'd to send for their Cloaks. In short, what makes me think the _Prussian_ Clothing the most convenient for a Soldier, is, that most of the _German_ Princes are now come into it, and like it well: The Troops of _Saxony_, and _Brunswic_ in particular, are cloth'd like those of _Prussia_.

The _Prussian_ Troops, which are new cloth'd every Year, have Breeches of Woollen Cloth for the Winter, and of Linnen for the Summer; and they are allow'd Shirts, Necks and Spatterdashes: Their Pay is good and regular; the Soldier is compell'd to do his Duty, but when he does it, enjoys more Liberty than in the Service of any other Nation: so that were I to carry a Musket, I fancy it wou'd be in the Service of _Prussia_, where such a strict Discipline is observ'd, that the Soldier is no Swearer, and is not allow'd to game, and where in a word he does not abandon himself to Licentiousness. On Sundays and Saints Days they are requir'd to go twice a day to hear a Sermon: The Catholicks have the liberty of going to Mass. In short, good Manners are introduc'd and observ'd in those Troops to such a Nicety, that you would wonder at it.

All the Infantry is cloth'd in blue. It depends on the Colonel of every Regiment, to order what Waistcoats and Trimming he pleases for the Clothes. The Horse and Dragoons wear white, but the Houshold Troops blue, with Campaign Coats of Gold Lace. The Hussars Clothing is red, but the Garbs of the Officers both of Foot and Horse are plain, and only differ from the Apparel of the Soldiers in the fineness of the Cloth; tho' there are some Regiments whose Waistcoats are bedaub'd all over with Gold or Silver Lace.

The Colours, which are uniform in all the Regiments, are white, with the King's Device, representing an Eagle flying towards the Sun with this Motto, _Nec Soli cedit_. There's such a Uniformity preserv'd in all things throughout the Army, even in their Guns, Swords, Bayonets, &c. that in every Regiment they wear the very same, even to their Shoe-Buckles.

The same Regularity is observ'd in the Horse and Dragoons, which ride both upon black Horses; and indeed they are not permitted to have any others, the Officers themselves being not exempt from this Rule, when they are at the head of their Squadrons or Companies. The Housings and Equipage of the latter are of the same Pattern, and extremely rich. All the Horse wear Buff-Coats, and underneath Cuirasses. They perform their Exercise on Foot like the Infantry, and with the same Exactness. The Kettle-Drums and Trumpets of all the Horse are of Silver.

There is not a Captain in all the _Prussian_ Army but has at least ten supernumerary Men; so that these included, the King's Forces amount to near 100000, all pick'd Men. You cou'd not but admire if you were to see how they behave; insomuch that whenever they take the Field, 'tis pity but Fortune shou'd favour them.

Not many Days after my Arrival here, the King being gone to visit his Kingdom, I had the Honour of waiting on the Queen. This Princess, whose Name is _Sophia-Dorothea_, is Sister to the present King of _Great Britain_, being the Daughter of _George_ I. the late King, and of _Sophia-Dorothea_ Princess of _Brunswic-Zell_. And she does every thing that is worthy of her August Extraction; for surely never did Daughter more resemble a Father; she has the same Benignity and Wisdom, the same Equity and Justice, and Sweetness of Temper. Like him she knows the Charms of a private Life, and Friendship, on a Throne: Like him she is ador'd by her Subjects and her Domestics, and is the chief Blessing and Darling of both. To extend Goodness and Affability farther, were impossible; there being no Foreigners but what are charm'd with the gracious Manner in which this Princess receives them. To a thousand Virtues worthy of Veneration, she has added the singular Talent of speaking the Language of several Countries which she never saw, with as much Delicacy as if they had been her Mother Tongues. The _French_ Language especially, is so familiar to her, that one wou'd take her to be a Princess of the Royal Family of _France_; and the Grandeur and Majesty that accompany all her Actions, induce those even who don't know her, to be of Opinion that she was born to reign.

That which still more endears this Queen to her People, is the Care she takes of the Education of her Family; which consists of four Princes, and six Princesses. The eldest of the Sons is stil'd the _Prince Royal_[7]. This young Prince is handsome, charms every one by his Kindness and Good-Nature; and loves Reading, Musick, the Arts, and Magnificence: His Sentiments, his Behaviour, and his Actions, make it probable, that if he comes to the Crown, his Reign will be one of those mild and peaceable Reigns, which procure Kings that Love of their People, wherein consists their true Glory. The Care of the Prince Royal's Education was committed first of all to Madam _de Camke_, one of the Queen's Ladies of Honour, and Governess of the Children of _Prussia_. But this Lady left the Charge of the latter to the Sub-Governess, Madam _de Rocoule_, and her Daughter Madamoiselle _de Montbail_. Madam _de Rocoule_ had also the honour to be Sub-Governess to the King; so that she was no Novice in the forming of young Princes. As she talks nothing but _French_, she has taught it to the King's Children; who speak it with as much ease as they do the _German_ Language. At seven Years of Age the Prince Royal was taken out of the Hands of the Women; and the Count _de Finck_ of _Finckenstein_, Lieutenant-General of the King's Forces, a Knight of his Order, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse, was appointed his Royal Highness's Governour; and the Baron _de Kalestein_ was made Sub-Governour. The King's Choice of both these Gentlemen was universally applauded.

The eldest of the King's Children is _Frederica-Sophia-Wilhelmina_, the Princess Royal; who was born in 1709. I was at _Berlin_ at the Ceremony of her Baptism, which was performed in the Chapel of the Castle, in presence of _Frederic_ IV. King of _Denmark_, _Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, and _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_. The Birth of this Princess, and the Circumstances of three Kings and a Queen attending at her Baptism, gave occasion to a great many Copies of Verses. All the Poets said that the Presence of these three Kings, was a Sign that she wou'd one day have Possession of three Crowns. They had then in view the Crowns of _Great Britain_, that were to devolve to the Family of _Hanover_; in which there was a young Prince[8], who, it was then imagin'd, was to be in time the Husband of this Princess. Whether this Match will ever take place, and whether the Princess will be Queen, I can't say; but if she is not, Fortune will not do Justice to her Merit.

The Princess _Frederica-Louisa_, the King's second Daughter, is lately married to the Margrave of _Brandenburgh Anspach_. 'Tis said that his Majesty's third Daughter, the Princess _Philippina-Charlotte_, is promised to[9]_Charles_, hereditary Prince of _Brunswic-Bevern_, Nephew to the Empress Regent.

The other Princes and Princesses, the King's Children[10], are as yet too young to furnish any Particulars for their Character. In a word, put them all together, they form a very fine Family.

The Margravine, Dowager of the Margrave _Philip_, Brother to the late King, is the first in Rank at Court, next to the King's Children: She was born Princess of _Anhalt-Dessau_. Her Royal Highness was lately chose Abbess of _Herford_, a sovereign Abby in _Westphalia_, (in a Town belonging to the King of _Prussia_, as part of the Principality of _Ravensberg_;) whose Canonesses must be all Princesses, or Countesses of the Empire. This Princess, tho' she is past her Bloom, is still the Ornament of the Court; and no Person can be more civil than she is to Foreigners; so that 'tis as much a Pleasure as a Duty to pay one's Court to her. When the King is at _Berlin_, and the Queen has no Drawing-Room, the whole Court repairs to the Margravine's House, where her Royal Highness daily keeps an elegant Table; to which she admits the Quality of both Sexes. She is the Mother of two Princes and a Princess; the Sons are the Margraves _Frederic_ and _Henry_, and the Daughter is married to the hereditary Prince of _Wirtemberg_. The young Margrave _Frederic_ resides at _Schwedt_ upon the _Oder_, where he has a very fine House; but does not come to Court but when he can't avoid it. The young Margrave _Henry_ resides commonly at _Berlin_. Both these Princes are handsome, lusty, and well shap'd.

The Margrave _Albert_, the King's Uncle[11], lives in his Majesty's Palace, tho' he is eight Months of the Year at _Frederichsfelde_, a Pleasure-House about a League from _Berlin_. He is the second Son of the Elector _Frederic-William_, and _Dorothy_ of _Holstein Glucksburg_: He is well shap'd, has a noble Air, and has been in his time a very good Dancer: He is fond of Grandeur and Pleasures. At the beginning of the last War he distinguished himself very much at the Siege of _Keyserswaert_, and other Places, where he commanded the Troops of the King his Brother. His Royal Highness is Governor of _Pomerania_, Knight of the Black Eagle, and Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and of another of Horse, in the King's Service: He has also a Regiment of Foot in the Service of the _United Provinces_; and is Grand Master of the six Commanderies of the Order of St. _John_ of _Jerusalem_, who, at the Alteration of Religion in the time of _Luther_, withdrew from the Grand Master of _Malta_, and assum'd to themselves a Right of chusing a Grand Master under the Protection of the Elector of _Brandenburgh_. The Margrave marry'd a Princess of _Courland_, Heiress to the Freeholds of her Uncle Duke _Ferdinand_, the last of her Family. This Princess, tho' not reckon'd a Beauty of the first Rate, has a great Share of Charms and Good-nature, Modesty and Politeness. Their Royal Highnesses are perfectly civil to those who have Access to them; which is the reason, that notwithstanding the little Concern they have in Business, they have always a numerous Court. They have three Princes, and two Princesses. The eldest of the Sons is _Charles_, a Prince whose Person and Character are very amiable. The eldest of the Daughters is married to the Duke of _Saxe-Eysenach_.

The last Prince of the Royal Family, is the Margrave _Christian-Lewis_, third Son of the Elector _Frederic-William_ by the second Marriage. This Prince is Governour of the City and County of _Halberstadt_; he has a Regiment of Foot, is Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle, and Commander of that of St. _John_. He studied at _Leyden_; after which, he serv'd with distinction in _Italy_. He now lives retir'd from Court at _Malchau_, a House about a Mile from _Berlin_, which the late King bought of the Heirs of M. _de Fuchs_, his Minister of State. There the Margrave, who has a Relish for the Pleasures of private Life, passes his Time in Hunting, Reading, and every innocent Pleasure that an agreeable Country is capable of furnishing. This Prince has been a handsome well-made Man; he has a grand Air, and there's something heroic in his Physiognomy: In the very Flower of his Youth he was a constant Admirer of Virtue, and might ever be quoted for an Example of Sobriety. He is so exceeding fat, that it's fear'd he won't live to be a very old Man[12].

All the Princes of the Royal Family wear the _Prussian_ Order, _viz._ that of the Black Eagle; and receive it as soon as they are born. 'Tis an Orange Ribband, to which is appendant a Cross enamel'd with blue, resembling the Cross of _Malta_. A Star of Silver is embroider'd on the Coat; and in the middle of it is an Orange Escutcheon, over which is a black Eagle crown'd with Wings display'd, holding in one of its Talons a Crown of Laurel, and in the other a Thunder-bolt, with the Motto, SUUM CUIQUE, in Letters of Gold. This Order was instituted by _Frederic_ I. the sixth of _January_ 1701, _O. S._ on account of his Coronation at _Koningsberg_. He call'd it the Order of the Black Eagle, because a Black Eagle forms the Arms of _Prussia_; and he chose an Orange Ribband, in memory of the Electress his Mother, who was a Princess of _Orange_; in Right of whom he pretends to be next Heir to _William_ III. King of _England_, and Prince of _Orange_.