Chapter VIII: Section VI: (trunk Route)

BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Bangor= to Carnarvon 9
=Carnarvon= to Llanberis 7½
=Llanberis= to Pen-y-Gwryd 6½
=Pen-y-Gwryd= to Beddgelert 7¾
=Beddgelert= to Penrhyn Deudraeth 7½
=Penrhyn Deudraeth= to Harlech 6½
=Harlech= to Barmouth 11
=Barmouth= to Dolgelley 10

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Bangor to Carnarvon.=--Nearly level and splendid surface.

=Carnarvon to Llanberis.=--Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy gradients and good surface.

Steady rise through =Pass of Llanberis=.

Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate hills.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Carnarvon.=--The Roman town of _Segontium_; magnificent thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.

Splendid views of the =Snowdon precipices=.

=Llanberis.=--A popular resort consisting of old and new villages; Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.

=Pass of Llanberis.=--Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.

=Beddgelert.=--A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church; prettiest part of route.

=Aberglaslyn.=--Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.

=Penrhyn.=--Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern construction.

=Harlech.=--County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding position.

=Llanbedr.=--A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.

=Llanddwywe.=--Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.

=Llanaber.=--Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone relic.

=Barmouth.=--Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent views of the estuary of the Mawddach.

=Bontddu.=--Water-fall.

[Map: (TRUNK) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]

[Map: No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]

The road from Bangor leads past the ~Menai Suspension Bridge~ over the Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over. (_Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each._) The bridge has a very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the ~Britannia Tubular Bridge~, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency. The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the village of ~Llanfair~, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 6--CARNARVON.]

CARNARVON

As the great Roman town and fortress of _Segontium_, the reputed birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate.

[Map: GROUND PLAN OF CARNARVON CASTLE.

A. Eagle Tower.
B. Queen's Tower.
C. Chamberlain's Tower.
D. Black Tower.
E. Granary Tower.
F. Well Tower.
G. Banqueting Hall.]

Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen, and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly reveals a view of ~Carnarvon Castle~, the vast dimensions of which may probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls, the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the great arch known as the ~Queen's Doorway~ is passed high up in the wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the barbican. Within the castle (_admission 4d._) the visitor is at once struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature. This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. ~The Town Walls~ of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry and the walls two sides of the church.

Of _Segontium_, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly extended to the river.

* * * * *

The road to ~Llanberis~ leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.

~Llanberis~ is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring points.

~Dolbadarn Castle~ is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon region.

~Old Llanberis~, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new, and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on Snowdon. The entrance to the famous ~Pass of Llanberis~, between Glyder Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features, while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake, from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained. Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards

BEDDGELERT

is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon, Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog, 2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads occurs here--one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and left.

~Penrhyn Deudraeth~ is a mining village of no interest, except as the starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country to the left, until it reaches the little town of

HARLECH

Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town. The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (_Admission 4d._) A fortress of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550 a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however, incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404 it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408. Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen. Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river, and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another bearing an Ogham inscription. ~Llanddwywe Church~ is not of any particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at ~Llanaber~ is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the beach near the church.

BARMOUTH

This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions. The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (_The toll is 2d., and one of the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is at sunset._) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance; while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.

The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is exceedingly distasteful.

THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH

The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm, glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of ~Cymmer Abbey~, near Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded _c._ 1200 by the Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the church.

LOOP No. 3

DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Dolgelley= to Penmaenpool 2½
=Penmaenpool= to Arthog 4½
=Arthog= to Llwyngwril 5
=Llwyngwril= to Llanegryn 4
=Llanegryn= to Abergynolwyn 6
=Abergynolwyn= to Tal-y-llyn 3
=Tal-y-llyn= to Corris 4
=Corris= to Machynlleth 5
=Machynlleth= to Cemmaes 6

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Surface to =Llwyngwril= excellent.

Near =Arthog= gradient of 1 in 10.

Near =Friog= gradient of 1 in 14.

Ascent of 1 in 9 near =Abergynolwyn=, and descent of 1 in 6 into the village.

After =Tal-y-llyn= ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to =Corris= 1 in 16.

Surface generally good to =Machynlleth=.

Then excellent road, but hilly, to =Cemmaes=.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Arthog.=--Waterfalls.

=Llwyngwril.=--A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer.

=Llanegryn.=--Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in distance.

=Tal-y-llyn.=--A lake near Cader Idris.

=Corris.=--Toy railway; slate district.

=Machynlleth.=--Market town; remains of old Senate-house.

[Map: LOOP 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN.]

The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run during the summer from Barmouth. Although the scenery upon the south bank of the Mawddach is not so fine as that upon the north, yet the mountains of Ardudwy, as the hinterland of Barmouth was anciently called, present an imposing aspect, and sometimes compose a pretty picture when seen through the umbrageous foliage which lines the road on both sides. If the tide be high, the view is accentuated by the reflections in the broad expanse of water, and singularly beautiful glimpses are at times displayed. The undulating road, flanked at times by the universal whitewashed cottages, reaches ~Arthog~, a small village situated at the base of a finely wooded, diversified ground, about a mile from which are the Arthog Lakes, and at a short distance from the hotel a waterfall, of considerable beauty after a heavy fall of rain, but much attenuated in dry weather. At Friog the slate quarries are apparent on the left of the road, and a steady rise begins, leading to an excellent retrospective view of Barmouth, Harlech Castle, and the Lleyn Peninsula to Bardsey.

LLWYNGWRIL

is a small village, with the Dyffryn River passing through it under a bridge. Castell-y-Gaer lies upon its banks at a short distance up the stream, consisting of small masses of broken ivy-clad masonry, of an unknown fortress so far as history is concerned. Upon the bridge before mentioned on Sunday evenings after church or chapel the youths and maidens of the village congregate to sing the sweet Welsh refrains handed down through long generations, and harmonized with a beauty of feeling which only a music-loving nation can express. Among the men singularly rich basses prevail; north of Barmouth, strange to say, tenors predominate. The route turns abruptly inland beyond Llangelynin, and the village of

LLANEGRYN,

lying off the main road, but approached by a lane, appears on the left. It contains a church well worth visiting, inasmuch as the superb rood-screen is among the finest in the British Isles. It is of early Perpendicular work, and the loft above is quite perfect except for the actual rood and the figures of saints. A good roof and an interesting Norman font should also be noticed.

THE BIRD ROCK

may be seen from this point, an isolated crag of peculiar shape standing up black and dour against the mountains beyond. The weird beauty of the landscape can hardly be overpraised. The road leading straight onwards passes almost underneath the rock, but the main route to the right descends to the bridge over the river, draining the Dysynni Valley, and Tal-y-llyn. Here are some sharp turns, but presently the very narrow road is reached, leading directly to the lake. Passing another vehicle is not an easy matter. The scenery increases in beauty as one progresses, the little railway to the right having scarcely the smallest deteriorating effect upon the valley. The ruins of Castell-y-Bere, formerly one of the largest in Wales, and once visited by Edward I., lie in the adjacent valley to the left, to which the narrow road leads, coming into Abergynolwyn on the left.

TAL-Y-LLYN

Tal-y-llyn is a quarter of a mile in width, and a little over a mile in length. It lies under Cader Idris, although the summit is not visible from it; two great craters, however, carved in its rocky flanks, form a fitting background on the left. In front lies a valley, by ascending which the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ is reached, and subsequently Dolgelley. Extravagant praise has been lavished upon the lake by many travellers, but one misses some essentials to claims of exceptional beauty. No quality of mystery appeals to the imagination; the lake does not lie in an appalling neighbourhood of black riven rocks or in a glen of surpassing beauty. All is open, and the whole is seen at one vision. Anglers, however, find Tal-y-llyn an ideal spot. At the farther end of the lake the road, after a branch track to the right by a cottage has been passed, turns to the right up a steep ascent, from whose summit a retrospective view of the lake is perhaps the best obtainable. The road to Corris through Nant Gwgan is pretty, with occasional waterfalls and stone slides from the shoulders of mountains towering hundreds of feet above the pass. The rich browns and greens and subtler shades of grey form charming contrasts of colour. Unfortunately, the lower end of the pass is disfigured by many slate quarries. Upper Corris is strongly reminiscent of Bethesda. A monument is erected here on the left side of the road to Alfred W. Hughes, F.R.C.S., who died in 1900 of fever during the war in South Africa. A quarry railway, with a miniature station and a gauge of 2 feet 3 inches, runs by the side of the road. At Corris, which is a slate-mining town pure and simple, the road trends to the right, and the view becomes less circumscribed as the vale of Afon Dulas widens out. When the Dovey Valley is reached a wide expanse of alluvial land comes into view, through which the river meanders westwards towards its estuary.

MACHYNLLETH

Machynlleth is a spacious and well-built market town and borough with two main streets, wide and pleasant, with well-kept shops, thus forming a marked contrast in that respect to the majority of Welsh towns. It forms one of the centres of the woollen industry of the county, and indulges somewhat in the tanning business as well. The clock-tower is a prominent object; the church has no features of interest worth recording; the Market-house dates only from 1783, and of antiquarian curiosities there are but few. An old black-and-white cottage at the end of Maengwyn Street, which branches off to the left at the chief main street, has 'OWEN PUGH O VXOR 1628' for 'Owen Pugh and wife.' The 'O,' however, is baffling as a conjunction. Opposite are portions of the old Senate-house, the reputed building in which Owen Glendower succeeded in persuading the nobles and commons to acknowledge him Prince of Wales in 1402. Upon the hills surrounding Machynlleth remains occur which appear to indicate that the town was a Roman station, and coins have occasionally been found to confirm this. A good road up the Valley of the Dovey leads to Cemmaes, where the trunk route is again reached.

(_For a description of the road from Cemmaes to Dolgelley, see Section VII._)

LOOP No. 4

CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Cemmaes= to Machynlleth 5½
=Machynlleth= to Talybont 10¾
=Talybont= to Aberystwyth 9¼
=Aberystwyth= to Goginan 7½
=Goginan= to Ponterwyd 4¼
=Ponterwyd= to Dyffryn Castell Hotel 2
=Dyffryn Castell Hotel= to Llangurig 10½

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Cemmaes to Aberystwyth.=--Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11.

First 12 miles after =Aberystwyth= splendid surface, then becomes a little rough and bumpy to =Llangurig=.

There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the =Devil's Bridge=.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Glandovey= (or =Glan Dyfi=).--Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant Valley; view over the estuary.

=Aberystwyth.=--A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle and the University buildings.

=The Devil's Bridge.=--Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch Bowl.

[Map: Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG.]

The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but possesses no particular feature to arrest attention--it is merely a pleasant drive.

GLANDOVEY

This small place stands at the entrance to the Lyfnant Valley, one of the most distractingly beautiful little glens in the whole of Wales, with waterfalls, torrents, and utter wildness of vegetation, and stern, bleak splendour at the farther end, where Pistyll-y-Llyn showers its two foaming torrents headlong into the black caldron beneath. The first cataract met, the Glaspwll Cascade, is a fine one, but it cannot vie with the more remote example. There is a prettily situated small castle on the left of the road. The estuary of the Dovey now appears, and if the tide be at the flood, presents a very fine prospect. Aberdovey generally has a brig or two lying off the quay. An extensive salt marsh now comes into view, between which and the high land the road runs. ~Borth~ lies on the coast of this plain; its hydro, links, and beautiful sands attract visitors during the summer. At Tre-Taliesin we are reminded of the grave of Taliesin, the 'King of the Bards' during the sixth century; the pilgrimage to his grave, which lies about a mile to the left of the road, is a favourite one from Aberystwyth. Two miles farther on the remains of a British camp or fort crown the summit of Moel-y-Gaer, close to the road upon the right; they are remarkably well preserved, and in the neighbourhood are some Druidical circles. In this district the open country around is quite park-like in many places; at times, however, it reminds one of parts of Devonshire. About two miles from Aberystwyth there is a beautiful vista of Cardigan Bay and the coast laved by its waters, with the town lying below at the termination of a long and rather trying hill.

ABERYSTWYTH

Aberystwyth not only boasts of a high antiquity, but also of having been the commercial centre for the Mid-Welsh counties. The trade has now dwindled, but as a watering-place it easily holds its own as one of the most frequented in Wales. The chief points of interest are:

~The Castle~, the ruins of which occupy a position of prominence in the centre of the town, was built by Gilbert de Strongbow in the reign of Henry I. It was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, and rebuilt by Edward I.; in the Civil War it was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The grounds are now laid out in pleasant walks, affording fine views of the coast.

~The University Buildings~ adjoin the castle, and may be termed one of the finest examples of recent architecture in the Principality. The general effect of the modern buildings in the town is depressing, probably owing to the use of the dark Silurian stone, covered with the universal slate roof.

The town is happy in having an immediate neighbourhood of great interest to the antiquary and to the ordinary tourist, inasmuch as many pleasant excursions may be indulged in, such, for example, as the visits to Strata Florida Abbey, the Monk's Cave, Lyfnant Valley, and the Devil's Bridge.

The route to Llangurig commences in Aberystwyth, in Northgate Street, and runs through Llanbadarn. At Pont Erwydd a road leads south to the Devil's Bridge, fifteen miles, a feature which should not on any account be missed.

An alternative route, eleven and three-quarter miles to the bridge, is a part of the direct road to Rhayader.

(_a_) ~First Route, the Pont Erwydd.~--Road level for first six miles, then rise to 1,027 feet; hilly.

~Llanbadarn.~--Church much restored.

~Bangor~ to ~Goginan~.--Lead-mines have destroyed scenery. A wild country around Pont Erwydd, where the route turns to the right.

(_b_) ~Alternative Route.~--The direct road to Devil's Bridge commences in Bridge Street, crosses the harbour, and passes under the railway.

About five miles out Cader Idris appears, twenty miles away to the left. The view afterwards into the Rheidol Valley is very fine. The highest point of the road, 989 feet above sea-level, commands a fine view of the two peaks of Plynlimmon. Castell-fan-Crach is a prehistoric earthwork.

~The Devil's Bridge~ is situated in what is probably the finest and most picturesque glen in the British Isles; the approach to it by either of the roads described gives only a slight idea of its merits. The monks of Strata Florida Abbey are supposed to have built the arch in the time of Rufus; the second bridge dates from 1814. The Devil's Punch Bowl, the Robbers' Cave, and the Falls of the Rheidol, should be seen.

The road to Llangurig from Pont Erwydd leads through a bare valley containing a large number of abandoned lead-mines--the dead hopes of thousands of sanguine speculators. The highest point of the road, 1,368 feet, is only two and a half miles from the summit of Plynlimmon (2,469 feet high), about two miles from the source of the Wye, and four miles from that of the Severn. The mountain is dull and uninteresting, being more of a flat spreading lump than a peak, and has extensive tracts of bog-land and marsh. Descending towards Llangurig, the Wye is crossed near an inn, and accompanies the road down the valley, which is cultivated to a certain extent in its lower portion. At Llangurig the main route is reached between Llanidloes and Rhayader.

(_For a description of the 30½ miles between Llangurig and Cemmaes, see Section VII._)