Chapter V: The Flora of the Mountain Slopes

By PROF. J. B. FLETT.[7]

[Footnote 7: Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. He has
spent many summers in its "parks," has climbed to its
summit four times, has visited all its glaciers, and has
made a remarkable collection of its flowers. In addition
to the chapter on the botany of the National Park, this
book is indebted to him for several of its most valuable
illustrations.]

Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along
the Pacific Coast, Mount Rainier is the noblest in form. Its
massive white dome rises out of its forests, like a world by
itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest
flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so
closely planted and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad to
make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were
economizing the precious ground, and trying to see how many of
her darlings she can get together in one mountain
wreath--daisies, anemones, columbines, erythroniums, larkspurs,
etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright
corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is
the richest subalpine garden I ever found, a perfect floral
elysium.--_John Muir: "Our National Parks."_

No one can visit the Mountain without being impressed by its wild flowers. These are the more noticeable because of their high color--a common characteristic of flowers in alpine regions. As we visit the upland meadows at a season when the spring flowers of the lowlands have gone to seed, we find there another spring season with flowers in still greater number and more varied in color.

The base of the Mountain up to an altitude of about 4,000 feet is covered by a somber forest of evergreens composed of the white and black pines; Douglas, Lovely and Noble firs; the white cedar; spruce, and hemlock. There are found also several deciduous trees--large-leafed maple, {p.130} white alder, cottonwood, quaking aspen, vine and smooth-leafed maples, and several species of willows. Thus the silva of the lower slopes is highly varied. The forest is often interrupted by the glacial canyons, and, at intervals, by fire-swept areas.

Among these foothills and valleys, lies the region of the virgin forest. This area is characterized by huge firs and cedars, all tall, straight and graceful, without a limb for 75 to 100 feet. This is probably the most valuable area of timber in the world, and it is one of the grandest parts of the Park. A death-like silence generally pervades this cool, dark region, where few kinds of animal life find a congenial abode. Occasionally the stillness is disturbed by the Douglas squirrel, busily gnawing off the fir cones for his winter's supply, or by the gentle flutter of the coy wren, darting to and fro among the old, fallen logs. The higher forms of vegetable life are also restricted to a few odd varieties. The most common of these are such saprophytes as _pterospora andromedea_, _allotropa virgata_, the so-called barber's pole, and the Indian pipe. This curious, waxy white plant is generally admired by all who see it, but it quickly disappoints those admirers who gather it by turning black.

The mosses, liverworts, and lichens take possession of the trees and cover them with a unique decoration. The licorice fern often gains a foothold on the trees thus decorated, and grows luxuriantly, embedded in the deep growth of these plants.

It is nearly impossible to get through this region without following a road or trail. For the safety of its priceless forest, there are far too few trails. In case of a forest fire it would be impossible to reach some areas in time to combat it with any success. Many beautiful regions in the lower parts of the Park are {p.131} wholly inaccessible. These should be opened with proper roads and trails, not only for their own safety, but also for the benefit of visitors.

The alpine meadows begin to appear at an altitude of about 5,000 feet. The real alpine trees, with their trim, straight trunks and drooping branches, are in strange contrast to their relatives of the lower altitude. The principal trees of the meadow area are the alpine fir, the alpine hemlock, and the Alaska cedar. These constitute the greater part of the silva of Paradise Valley. There are a few trees of the Lovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white-barked pines overlooking the glaciers at timber line.

{p.133}

The trees of the park zone differ greatly on different slopes. On the northeast and east, the white-barked pine and the alpine spruce form no small part of the tree groups. The white-barked pine branches out like the scrub oak on the prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude. The alpine spruce bears numerous cones all over the tree, and has sharp leaves, though not so sharp as its relative, the tideland spruce.

Not only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes of the Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceous plants as well. _Hesperogenia Strictlandi_ is a small, yellow plant of the celery family. This is very abundant, both in Spray Park and also in the country east of the Carbon Glacier, but rare on the south side. _Gilia Nuttallii_, a large, phlox-like plant, is abundant only in the Indian Henry region. Two anemones, one buttercup, three willows and one senecio seem to be confined to the White River country. The moss campion has been found only on Mowich.

The most noticeable and abundant flower on all slopes is the avalanche lily (_erythronium montanum_). This plant comes up through several inches of the old snow crust, and forms beautiful beds of pure white flowers, to the exclusion of nearly all other plants. There are often from seven to nine blossoms on a stem. This has other popular names, such as deer-tongue and adder-tongue. There is also a yellow species, growing with the other, but less abundant. It seldom has more than one {p.134} or two flowers on a stem. The yellow alpine buttercup generally grows with the erythroniums. It also tries to rush the season by coming up through the snow. The western anemone is a little more deliberate, but is found quite near the snow. It may be known by its lavender, or purple flowers; and later by its large plume-like heads, which are no less admired than the flowers themselves.

The plants just mentioned are the harbingers of spring. Following them in rapid succession are many plants of various hues. The mountain dock, mountain dandelion, and potentilla seldom fail to appear later. The asters, often wrongly called daisies, are represented by several species, some of which blossom early, and are at their best along with the spring flowers. The great majority of the composite family bloom later, and thus prolong the gorgeous array. The lupines add much to the beauty of this meadow region, both at a low altitude, and also in the region above timber line. Their bright purple flowers, in long racemes, with palmate leaves, are very conspicuous on the grassy slopes. Between timber line and 8,500 feet, Lyall's lupine grows in dense silk mats, with dark purple flowers--the most beautiful plant in that zone.

Four different kinds of heather are found on the Mountain. The red heather is the largest and the most abundant. It grows at a lower altitude than the others, and is sometimes, erroneously, called Scotch heather. There are two kinds of white heather. One forms a prominent part of the {p.135} flora, often growing with the red. The other is less conspicuous and grows about timber line. The yellow heather also grows at the same altitude, and is larger and more common than the others. It often forms beautiful areas where other vegetation is rare. The white rhododendron is a beautiful shrub of the lower meadows. Its creamy white blossoms remind one of the cultivated azalea. There are several huckleberries, some with large bushes growing in the lower forest area, others small and adapted to the grassy meadows.

The figwort family has many and curious representatives. The rose-purple monkey-flower is very common and conspicuous in the lower meadows, along the streams. It is nearly always accompanied by the yellow fireweed. Higher up, large meadow areas are arrayed in bright yellow by the alpine monkey-flower. Above timber line, two pentstemons, with matted leaves and short stems with brilliant purple and red flowers, cover large rocky patches, mixed here and there with lavender beds of the alpine phlox; while the amber rays of the golden aster, scattered through these variegated beds, lend their {p.136} charm to the rocky ridges. The Indian paint-brush, the speedwell, the elephant's trunk, and the pigeon bills are all well-known members of the large figwort family which does much to embellish the Mountain meadows. The valerian, often wrongly called "mountain heliotrope," is very common on the grassy slopes. Its odor can often be detected before it is seen. The rosy spiraea, the mountain ash, and the wild currant, are three common shrubs in this area. There are also numerous small herbaceous plants of the saxifrage family, some forming dense mats to the exclusion of other plants. The mertensias, polemoniums, and shooting stars add much to the purple and blue coloring.

Two liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objects of marked interest. The Clintonia, popularly called alpine beauty, begins in the forest area, and continues up to the lower meadows. This may be known by its pure white blossoms and blue berries. Its leaves are oblong in tufts of from two to four. They spring up near the roots. The other is xerophyllum, mountain lily, sometimes called squaw grass, because it is used by the Indians in basket making. This has tall {p.138} stems with small fragrant flowers and coarse grass-like leaves.

The orchid family has a few curious saprophytic representatives on the lower slopes. Mertin's coral-root is one of the most common. This generally grows in clusters in the mossy woods, along the trail or government road above Longmire Springs. It is very common all around the mountain at an altitude of 3,000 to 4,500 feet. With it, grow two tway-blades and the rattlesnake plantain. In bogs, two species of piperia, with long spikes of greenish flowers, are abundant. In drier situations, a small form of the ladies' tresses is easily recognized by its spiral spike of small white flowers, which are more or less fragrant. In some of the swamps at the base of the mountain grows _Limnorchis leucostachys_. This is one of our most fragrant flowers, as well as one of the most beautiful, with its long spike of pure white blossoms.

Of the ferns, the common brake is sometimes seen on the slopes near the terminal moraines of the glaciers. On the old moraines and cliffs is found the pea fern (_cryptogramma acrostichoides_), so called because the pinnules of its fruiting fronds resemble those of a pea pod. This dainty little fern with its two kinds of fronds is always admired by mountain visitors. It is strictly a mountain fern. The deer fern also has two kinds of fronds, but this grows all the way from sea level to the glaciers, being at its best in the dense forest area. The delicate oak fern grows in great abundance from Eatonville to the timber line, and probably does more to beautify the woods than any other fern. The sword fern grows in dense, radiate clusters, all through the mossy woods. The fronds are often five or six feet in length. The maidenhair fern is found along streams, waterfalls and moist cliffs, reaching its highest development in the deep canyons cut through the dense forest.

On the very top of Pinnacle Peak and similar elevations, grows the beautiful mountain lace fern (_cheilanthes gracillima._) Nearly every tourist presses a souvenir of it in his notebook. _Phegopteris alpesteris_ is abundant along the glacial valleys, where the tall grasses and the beautiful array of alpine plants delight the eye. These ferns and grasses give a rich green color to the varigated slopes where nature blends so many harmonious colors in matchless grandeur in this great fairyland of flowers.

{p.139}

The writer has a list of about three hundred and sixty species from the Mountain. It includes only flowering plants and ferns. There are more than twenty type species named from the Mountain, not a few of which are found nowhere else. Its geographical position makes it the boundary between the arctic plants from the North and the plants of Oregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has a wonderful effect on plant life. This is seen in the trees at timber line, where snow rests upon them for months. Their prostrate trunks and gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme struggle for existence. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snowy protococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. This is a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color in one stage of its existence. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of the rim, will be found three or four mosses--I have noted one there which is not found anywhere else--several lichens, and at least one liverwort.

{p.140}

NOTES.

Rates, Trains, Hotel Accommodations.--The round-trip fare from Tacoma via the Tacoma Eastern is $6.00. This includes railway transportation to Ashford and automobile-stage ride from Ashford to Longmire Springs and return. Tickets are good for the season. To parties of ten or more traveling together a single ticket is issued at $5.00 per capita. A week-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5.00. The rates from Seattle to the Springs are $1.50 more, in each case, than the Tacoma rates. The train schedule for 1911 follows:

SOUTHBOUND
Leave Seattle 7.45 A.M. and 12.30 P.M.
Arrive Tacoma 8.55 A.M. and 1.40 P.M.
Leave Tacoma 9.05 A.M. and 1.50 P.M.
Arrive Ashford 11.20 A.M. and 4.05 P.M.
Leave Ashford 11.30 A.M. and 4.15 P.M.
Arrive at Inn 12.45 P.M. and 5.30 P.M.

NORTHBOUND
Leave Inn 7.15 A.M. and 1.30 P.M.
Arrive Ashford 8.30 A.M. and 2.45 P.M.
Leave Ashford 8.40 A.M. and 2.55 P.M.
Arrive Tacoma 10.55 A.M. and 5.10 P.M.
Leave Tacoma 11.05 A.M. and 5.15 P.M.
Arrive Seattle 12.15 P.M. and 6.30 P.M.

The National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms in the Inn, with a large number of well-furnished and comfortable tents near by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 a day, including meals. The dining-room is under the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound dining-car management, which insures a satisfactory table.

At the older Longmire Hotel, the rate is $2.50 a day for room and board. This hotel is open all the year, and in winter is much frequented by persons seeking Winter sports, or making use of the mineral springs.

The springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for their medicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a score of these springs, varying from the normal temperature of a mountain stream almost to blood heat. Well-appointed bathhouses are maintained. Fee, including attendance, $1.00.

At Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at Mrs. Hall's similar tent hotel in Indian Henry's Park, the charge for meals, with a tent for sleeping, is $2.50 per day.

Stages, Horses, Guides.--The cost of getting from Longmire Springs to Paradise or Indian Henry's is moderate. Many prefer to make the trips on foot over the mountain trails. Parties are made up several times a day, under experienced guides, for each of these great "parks," and sure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50 for the round trip. Guides and horses for the new trail to Eagle Peak are at the same rate. Guides may be had at the {p.141} National Park Inn or at either of the "camps" for many interesting trips over the mountain trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with the number in a party.

Stages carry passengers from the Inn over the government road to Nisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Reese's Camp in Paradise Park. The charge for the trip to Narada and return is $2.00; to Paradise and return, $3.00.

For those who wish to make the ascent to the summit over the Gibraltar trail, trustworthy guides may be engaged at the Inn or at Reese's. Arrangements should be made several days in advance. The cost of such a trip depends upon the number in a party. The guides make a charge of $25 for the first member of the party, and $5 each for the others. They furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of climbers at a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a blanket or extra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of being on the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if the night is to be spent at Camp Muir. A sleeping-bag, which can be easily made, or purchased at any outfitter's, will prove invaluable to campers. Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made in special parties. All persons are warned not to attempt an ascent unless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost through neglect of this precaution.

For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from Tacoma to Fairfax is $1.25, and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change of cars at Puyallup, $1.75. Guides and horses may be engaged at Fairfax for the Spray Park trail.

Automobiles and Motorcycles.--These vehicles are permitted to use the government road, as far as the Nisqually glacier, under the following regulations of the Interior Department:

No automobile or motorcycle will be permitted within the Park unless its owner secures a written permit from the Superintendent, Edward S. Hall, Ashford, Washington, or his representative. Applications must show: Names of owner and driver, number of machine, and inclusive dates for which permit is desired, not exceeding one year, and be accompanied by a fee of $5 for each automobile and $1 for each motorcycle. All permits will expire on December 31. Permits must be presented to the Superintendent or his authorized representatives at the park entrance on the government road.

Automobiles and motorcycles will be permitted on the government road west of Longmire Springs between the hours of 7 A.M. and 8.30 P.M., but no automobile or motorcycle shall enter the Park or leave Longmire Springs in the direction of the western boundary, later than 8 P.M., the use of automobiles and motorcycles to be permitted between Longmire Springs and Nisqually glacier between the hours of 9 A.M. and 9.30 P.M., but no automobile or motorcycle shall leave Longmire Springs in the direction of the glacier later than 7 P.M.

When teams, saddle horses, or pack trains approach, automobiles and motorcycles shall take position on the outer edge of the roadway, taking care that sufficient room is left on the inside for them to pass, and remaining at rest until they have passed, or until the drivers are satisfied regarding the safety of their horses. Horses have the right of way, and automobiles and motorcycles will be backed or otherwise handled to enable horses to pass with safety.

Speed shall be limited to 6 miles per hour, except on straight stretches where approaching teams, saddle horses, and pack trains will be visible, when, if none are in sight, this speed may be increased to the rate indicated on signboards along the road; in no event, however, shall it exceed 15 miles per hour. Signal with horn shall be given at or near every bend to announce to approaching drivers the proximity of a machine.

Violation of any of the foregoing rules, or the general regulations of the Park, will cause the revocation of permit, subject the owner of the automobile or motorcycle to any damages occasioned thereby and to ejectment from the reservation, and be cause for refusal to issue a new permit without prior sanction in writing from the Secretary of the Interior.

Literature of the Mountain.--Vancouver, Winthrop, Kautz, Stevens and Van Trump have been noted in the text. Other early accounts of, or references to, the Mountain may be found in _Wilkes: Narrative U. S. exploring expedition_. Phil. 1845, v. 4, 413, 415, 424; _U. S. War Dep't: Explorations for railroad to Pacific, 1853-4_, v. 1, 192; _Gibbs: Journal Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 4, 354-357. {p.142} Gibbs's Indian vocabularies, published at different dates, were reprinted four years after his death in _Contributions to Am. Ethnol._, v. 1. Wash. 1877.

For Emmons's account of his exploration in 1870, see _Bulletin Am. Geog. Soc._ v. 9, 44-61. _Am. Jour. of Science_, v. 101, 157-167, and _Nation_ v. 23, 313. Prof. Israel C. Russell's studies of the peak are in _U. S. geol. survey, 5th an. rep._ 335-339 and _18th an. rep., part 2_, 349-415. See also his _Glaciers of N. Am._, Bost. 1901, 62-67, and _Volcanoes of N. Am._, Bost. 1895, 241-246. For other accessible studies consult _Wright: Ice age in N. Am. N. Y._ 1889, and _Muir: Our national parks_, Bost. 1901.

The long controversy over the name of the peak is impartially reviewed in _Snowden: History of Washington_. N. Y. 1909, v. 4, 249-254. Snowden calls especial attention to an able paper by the late Thaddeus Hanford of Olympia on the Indian names and recommending the name Tacoma for the Territory, which was printed in the _Washington Standard_ in January, 1866. This article should be reprinted by the State Historical Society, as it represents a movement of considerable force at one time against the inept and confusing name adopted for the State. The Indian evidence for the native name of the Mountain was collected in _Wickersham: Is it "Mt. Tacoma" or "Mt. Rainier?"_, pamphlet, Tacoma, 1893. The argument of an eminent traveler and author against "Mt. Rainier" may be found in _Finck: Pacific coast scenic tour_. N. Y. 1891, 209-213, 229-230; also in the same writer's more recent article, _Scribner's Magazine_, v. 47, 234-5. See also _Lyman: The Columbia river_. N. Y. 1909, p. 32, 352-370, and _The Mountains of Washington_, in _The Mountaineer_, v. 1, 7-10; and Charles F. Lummis's editorial articles in _Out West_, v. 23, 367 and 494. On the other hand, Prof. Davidson, in _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, 87-98, presents reasons on which that club accepted "Mt. Rainier."

_Wheeler: Climbing Mt. Rainier_, St. Paul, 1895, and _Plummer: Illustrated guide book to Mt. Tacoma_, Tacoma, n. d., are two pamphlets now out of print.

The ascents by the Mazama, Sierra and Mountaineers clubs have furnished material for a great variety of articles on the geology, botany and glacier action, as well as many accounts of climbing adventures. _Mazama_, v. 2, _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, and _The Mountaineer_, v. 1 and 2, are mainly devoted to this peak. For articles in periodicals of wider circulation, see _Review of Reviews_, v. 9, 163-171 (by Carl Snyder); _Out West_, v. 24, 365-395 (Willoughby Rodman); _National geog. mag._, v. 20, 530-538 (Milnor Roberts); _Scribner's_ v. 22, 169-171 (I. C. Russell); _Outing_, v. 5, 323-332 (J. R. W. Hitchcock), and v. 38, 386-392 (Ada Woodruff Anderson); _Overland_, n. s., v. 2, 300-312 (W. D. Lyman), v. 8, 266-278 (George Bailey), v. 32, 114-123 (J. P. Montgomery), v. 46, 447-455 (Harry H. Brown), v. 55, 552-560 (A. W. McCully), and v. 56, 150-155 (A. W. McCully); _Pacific monthly_, v. 8, 196-202 (John Muir); _The world today_, v. 9, 1047-53 (Anne Shannon Monroe); _Good words_, v. 42, 101-114 (Arthur Inkersley); _Appalachia_, v. 7, 185-205 (Ernest C. Smith), and v. 11, 114-125 (W. A. Brooks); _Country life in Am._, v. 14, 170-171 (C. E. Cutter); _The Northwest_, v. 1, 2-10 (Bailey Willis); _Outdoor life_, v. 26, 15-24 (Edna Cadwallader). Special studies of the rocks of the peak may be found in _U. S. geol. sur., 12th an. rep. pt. 1_, 612 (J. P. Iddings), and in _Neues Jahrbuch_, v. 1, 222-226, Stuttgart, 1885 (K. Oebeke).

{p.143} INDEX.

Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in the heavier type to illustrations.

Adams, Mount, 77, 86, 64, 66.
Allen, Prof. O. D., cottage, 49.
Alta Vista, 49, 60.
American Alpine Club, 126.
Anemones, 32;
seed pods, 138.
Appalachian Club, 126.
Ascents, Kautz, 117;
Stevens and Van Trump, 120-4;
Emmons and Wilson, 124;
Glascock and Dudley, 125;
the mountain clubs, 126.
Automobiles, 57, 70-72, 141, 41, 49, 54.
Avalanche on Willis Wall, 119.
Avalanche Camp, 103, 104, 105.
Avalanche Lilies, 136.

Baker, Mount, 86, 98, 99.
Ballinger, Richard, H. 75.
Basaltic Columns,--South Mowich, 23;
on Cowlitz, 93.
Bashford, Herbert,--verse, 17.
Bee Hive, 76, 80.
Beljica, view from, 27.
Brooks, Francis,--verse, 40.

Cabins needed on the ridges, 116, 144.
Camp of the Clouds, 49, 61, 60.
Carbon river, 50, 103, 114.
Cascade Mountains, 66, 87, 90, 96.
Cathedral Rocks, 85, 76, 84, 78.
Chittenden, Maj. H. M., urges trail, 69.
Columbia's Crest, 86, 88, 52, 78.
Commencement Bay, 28.
Congress, action affecting the Park, 58, 59, 67, 70.
Cowlitz Chimneys, 43, 78, 81.
Cowlitz Cleaver, 85, 76, 78, 81.
Cowlitz Park, 64, 93.
Crater, 50, 88, 89.
Crater Lake, 117.
Crater Peak, 13, 86, 60, 89.
Curtis, Camp, on the Wedge, 97.
Cushman, Francis W., 59, 108.

Dudley, Ernest, 125.

Eagle Cliff, 51.
Eagle Peak (Simlayshe), 30, 31;
new trail to, 141.
Eagle Rock in winter, 7.
East-side route to summit, 117, 126, 100.
Edmunds, George F., 96.
Electric-power development, 108-112.
Electron, The Mountain from, 13, 19;
Power plant at, 108, 112.
Emmons, S. F., Geologist, 94-97.

Fairfax, trail from, 50.
Fair Mountaineer, A, 35.
Fairy Falls, 73.
Fay Peak, 51, 92.
Ferns, 132.
Fires, danger of forest, 8, 58, 130.
Flett, Prof., J. B., 129, n.
Flint, Frank P., U. S. Senator, 75.
Flood, Indian legend of the, 39.
Fox Island, the Mountain from, 14.
Fountain, Paul, quoted, 43.
Fuller, Miss Fay, 126, 72.

Gap Point, 61, 54.
"Ghost Trees," 50.
Gibbs, George, on name "Mt. Tacoma," 104, 107, 142.
Gibraltar Rock, 82, 85, 116, 121, 60, 68, 71, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83,
85, 86.
Glaciers, their number and work, 79-83;
moraines, 83, 68, 77, 79, 96;
rate of flow, 83, 72;
names, 93-97;
rivers, 108;
--Carbon, 50, 51, 77, 103, 105, 107, 108, 118, 119, 120, 121, 129;
--Cowlitz, 50, 93, 6, 51, 78, 81, 84, 87;
--Frying-Pan, 93, 41, 96, 97;
--Ingraham, 93, 78;
--Interglacier, 93, 98, 99;
--Kautz, 93, 27, 30, 37, 60, 68;
--North Mowich, 50-52, 96, 13, 123, 124, 128;
--South Mowich, 52, 13, 22, 23;
--Nisqually, 49, 31, 55, 57, 60, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 81;
--Paradise, 50, 94, 97, 25, 31, 60, 79;
--Puyallup, 52, 13, 27, 33;
--Stevens, 50, 97, 61, 64, 79;
--North Tahoma, 93, 13, 26, 27, 32, 33, 37;
--South Tahoma, 93, 17, 27, 32, 36, 37, 60;
--Van Trump, 94, 31, 60;
--White, 50, 81, 93, 9, 12, 94, 95, 96, 100, 121;
--Winthrop, 50, 51, 93, 94, 8, 17, 130, 103, 104, 107, 113, 126,
142.
Glascock, Raglan, 125.
"Goat Island," moraine, 96.
Goat Mountain (Mt. Wow), 28.
Goat Peaks, 87, 90, 94.
Grand Park, 51, 64, 98, 99.
Green River, view of the Mountain from, 140.
Guides, 113, 141.

Hanging glaciers, 51, 57.
Heather, 133.
Hellebore, 133.
Hiaqua Hunter, Myth, 32-39.
Hood, Mt., 86.
Hylebos, P. F. (Rev.), 28, n.

Ice caves, 31, 73.
Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, 49, 25, 29, 32, 34, 36, 37, 40, 50,
131, 137;
--Mrs. Hall's Camp, 141.
Indians, nature worship of the Mountain, 25-31, 39;
Puget Sound tribes, 25, 26;
fear of the snow-peaks, 32, 121.
Ingraham, Maj. E. S., 100.
Interglaciers, 93.
Iron and Copper mountains, 25, 30.

Jones, Wesley L., U. S. Senator, 75.
Jordan, David Starr, 67.
Judson, Miss Katharine B. 35, 39.

Kautz, Gen., A. V., 117.
Kulshan, Indian name for Mt. Baker, 98.
Kutz, Maj. C. W., 69.

Liberty Cap (North Peak), 86, 22, 89, 114.
Little Tahoma, 82, 85, 9, 31, 60, 78, 79, 94, 121.
Longmire, James, trail and road, 59.
Longmire Hotel, 141.
Longmire Springs, 44, 51, 141, 52.
Lost to the World, 69.
Lupines, 139.

McClure, Prof. Edgar, death, 115.
Marmot, 26.
Matthes, Francois E., U. S. geologist, 89, 97.
Mazama (mountain goat), 23.
Mazama Club, 126, 81, 82.
Mazama Ridge, 60.
Mineral Lake, 18.
Moraine Park, 51, 126, 105, 113, 117, 129, 136.
Mosses and ferns, 132.
Mother Mountains, 103, 114, 116, 122, 129.
Mountaineers, The, 126, 61, 121, 126.
Mountain goat, 23.
Mountain Lily, 136, 135.
Mountain Pine, 28.
Muir John, quoted, 77, 113, 129;
Portrait, 116.
Muir, Camp, 115, 60, 80, 83.
Mystic Lake, 113.

Narada Falls, 61, 107, 58.
National Park, see Rainier Natl. Park.
National Parks, proposed Bureau of, 75.
National Park Inn, 44, 50, 52.
Nisqually Canyon, 21.
Nisqually Glacier (see Glaciers).
Nisqually river, 108, 111, 21, 24, 55.
North Peak (Liberty Cap), 13, 22, 89.

Ohop Valley, 43.

Pacific Forest Reserve, 59.
Paradise River, 59.
Paradise Valley, or Park, 30, 49-51, 61, 31, 39, 46, 53, 59, 60, 62.
Peak Success (South Peak), 86, 123-125, 13, 24, 25, 27, 33, 37, 60,
68, 78.
Phlox, 135.
Pierce County road, 43, 49.
Piles, S. H., U. S. Senator, 70.
Pinnacle Peak, 38, 39, 46, 47.
Point Defiance Park, 18.
Power-plants on the Mountain, 108-112, 111, 112.
Proctor, Miss Edna Dean, poem, "The Mountain Speaks," 15.
Ptarmigan, 40.
Puget Sound 18, 25, 14;
named by Vancouver, 98.
Puyallup river, 108, 40.
Pyramid Peak, 25, 60.

Railways to Puget Sound, 44;
to the Mountain, 54, 57;
rates and time table, 140.
Rainier, Rear-Admiral Peter, 7, 98, 100, 103, n., 101.
Reese's Camp, 61, 115, 141, 64.
Reflection Lake, 60, 77.
Rainier National Park, 54;
increasing use of, 56, 57;
its creation, 58-9;
see also Roads.
Ricksecker, Eugene, engineer, 61, 62, 70, 97.
Rivers fed by the Mountain, 108.
Rocks of the Mountain, 82, 112.
Roads and trails, Pierce County's to the Mountain, 44, 56, 42, 43, 44,
49;
government road in National Park, 57-62, 51, 54, 55, 56;
trails 44, 45, 50-2, 55, 56, 121;
proposed road around the Mountain, 62-70;
need 58, 130.
Rough climbing, 39.
Russell, Prof. Israel C., 94.
Russell Peak, 82, 103, 105.

Saghalie Illahe, Indian land of peace, 30.
St. Elmo Pass, 8, 98, 100, 102, 104.
St. Helen's, Mt., 77, 86, 29, 36.
Seattle, 18, 43, 44, 108.
Senecio, 129.
Sierra Club, 75, 126, 57, 69.
Simlayshe (Eagle Peak), 30.
Siwashes, origin of term, 28, n.
See also Indians.
Sluiskin, guides Stevens and Van Trump, 28, 32, 120-1.
Sluiskin Falls, 67.
Sluiskin Mountains, 51, 103, 105, 126, 136, 142.
Snipe Lake, 98.
Snow Lake, 34.
Sour-Dough Mountains, 8, 98, 99.
Spanaway Lake, 4.
South Peak, see Peak Success.
Spray Falls, 125.
Spray Park, 50, 51, 92, 106, 116, 122.
Steamboat Prow, 51, 85, 104.
Steam Caves in Crater, 88.
Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 28, n., 32, 96, 97, 120-4, 115.
Stevens Canyon, 64, 66.
Storm King Peak, 18.
Summit, On the, 52;
South-side route to, 60;
East-side route, 100.
"Sunshine" and "Storm," 70.

"Tacoma," Indian name for the Mountain, 25, 100-7.
Tacoma (City) 18, 43, 44, 111.
Tatoosh Mountains, 50, 53, 59, 60, 62, 64, 87.
Tolmie, Dr. W. F., 117.
Trees in the National Park, 129-131, 139, 42, 130, 132.
Tyndall, Prof. John, quoted, 77.

Unicorn Peak, 65.
United States Geological Survey, 89.

Vancouver, Capt. George, discovers and names the Mountain, 98-101.
Van Trump, P. B., 28, n., 32, 120-5, 115.

Washington Lake, the Mountain from, 16.
Washington Torrents, 59.
Waterfall above Paradise Valley, 63.
Wedge, The, 51, 85, 8, 97, 99, 100.
White river, 110, 12, 112.
Whitney, Mt., 90.
Willis, Bailey, geologist, 96, 97.
Wilson, A. D., 96, 97.
Whulge, see Puget Sound.
Winthrop, Theodore, 93;
describes the Mountain, 102-4;
authority for his use of the Indian name, 104-7.
Wind-swept trees, 28, 139.
Wow, Mt. (Goat Mountain), 28.

Yellowstone National Park, 57, 67, 72.

End of Project Gutenberg's The Mountain that was 'God', by John H. Williams