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Chapter III: Part 3

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The account of the Russian Voyages is stated by Müller to have been prepared at the direction of the Empress and endorsed by the Academy of Sciences. It contains invaluable material on the early explorations, which, if it had not been for Müller's painstaking researches, would have been totally lost, as the archives of Yakutsk from whence the data were derived by Müller were subsequently destroyed by fire. The errors which occur in it are chiefly due to Müller's endeavor to utilize the inexact geographical data of the Promyschleniks and Cossacks by combining them with the less detailed but more precise observations of later observers. In this attempt he added many valuable details to the charts, but at the same time introduced several errors. The exaggerated distances reported by the first explorers who were unable to correct their estimates by observations of precision, distort those parts of the map due to their reports. The peninsula of Aliaska becomes hugely exaggerated as does the Shelagskoi promontory on the Arctic Sea. But no unprejudiced person can read Müller's account without perceiving his great caution in accepting unreservedly these imperfect contributions, the really important additions which he made to cartography, the preciousness of the facts which he rescued from oblivion, and his desire to be fair to everybody.

The insinuations of malice and of a desire to injure Bering by means of this account given by Müller, which Lauridsen attributes to the latter, appear to be entirely the product of a suspicious temperament and an excited imagination. Certainly I have seen nothing anywhere cited which lends to such suspicions any tint of probability. The facts cited in support of them can easily be otherwise explained, if one desires to view the subject judicially, and for the most part are not quite thoroughly understood by the Danish author.

One error upon which the latter lays great stress, is due to a manipulation of the record, originated or at least adopted by Bering himself, and which is incorporated in the map and report which all authors agree proceeded directly from Bering's own hand.

The next map of importance was issued by the Imperial Academy of Sciences, St. Petersburg in 1754. It was made under the inspection of Gerhard Friedrich, Staatsrath von Müller, who revised and corrected it subsequently, when an edition dated 1758 was issued. This map comprised the geographical results of the great Siberian expedition sent out by the Russian government; of Bering's voyages; and of the records of the hunters (Promishleniks) and traders in northeastern Siberia preserved in the archives of Yakutsk. The sources of this map are fully explained by Müller in the "Russian Discoveries" (Jefferys' translation, p. 108 et seq.). I have not been able to examine a copy of the original map, and have therefore relied on the English version of it which is to be found in Jefferys' translation, second edition, London, 1764.

Among the improvements introduced on this map may be specified, the correction of the shores of the Okhotsk Sea, and Gulf of Penjina, the correcter location of the mouth of the Anadyr river and its estuary, the introduction of the results of the voyages of Gvosdeff, Bering and Chirikoff to the northwest coast of America, and a multitude of details relating to northeastern Siberia. The island of St. Deomid (Diomede) is not represented though its name appears on the 65th parallel in Bering Strait. The island may have been on the original map and carelessly omitted by Jefferys' engraver on his copy. Among the errors, or rather mistaken hypotheses of others, which are suggested in this map by dotted lines, are the extension westward to 174° E. of Greenwich, of the peninsula of Aliaska which is also given a wholly uncalled-for width; and the northward extension of the coast on each side of Bering Strait. In the former case the cartographer was misled by the errors of the map of Bering and Chirikoff's last voyage and rumors reported by other navigators; and in the second case he followed Bering in adopting an erroneous position and exaggerated form for the coast eastward from Koliuchin Bay, due to the uncorrected sketches of the Cossacks and traders. The northern extension of the American coast opposite, was purely hypothetical and for this Müller must be held responsible. Many of the western Aleutians are exaggerated in size and erroneous in position but the chart of Bering's last voyage, and the exaggerated reports of the hunters who followed him, must be held responsible for this, in the main.

The work in which this chart appears is largely derived from Müller's "Sammlung russische geschichte," St. Petersburg, 1758, vol. iii, Parts I-III (cf. antea). The first edition is entitled, according to bibliographies:

"Voyages from Asia to America for completing the discoveries of the northwest coast of America. A summary of voyages made by the Russians on the frozen sea. From the high Dutch of S[taatsrath]. Muller by T. Jefferys. London: T. Jefferys, 1761." lxvi, 76 pp. 4°, with four maps.

The second edition which is that referred to in this paper is entitled

"Voyages from Asia to America, for completing the discoveries of the northwest coast of America. To which is prefixed, a summary of the Voyages made by the Russians on the Frozen Sea, in search of a northeast passage. Serving as an explanation of a map of the Russian discoveries, published by the Academy of Sciences at Petersburgh, [etc.] London: T. Jefferys, 1764," viii, 120 pp. 4°, four maps.

A French translation by Dumas, with the author's initials misprinted G. P. instead of G. F., was printed at Amsterdam in 1766. It consisted of two volumes, 18mo, with a map. A Danish translation, by Morten Hallager, was issued at Copenhagen in 1784, as a portion of a volume relating to northern explorations. Bibliographers seem to have been puzzled by the discrepancy of initials, not recognizing that the S. in Jefferys' volume stood for a title and not a name. Another work important in its collection of facts bearing upon the general question of the explorations eastward by the Russians, was published by the archdeacon of Wilts, Rev. William Coxe in 1780. This was followed by a second edition during the same year. A third edition accompanied by a Supplement of 57 pages was printed in 1787 and a fourth in 1803. There were two apparently distinct translations of the book printed at Paris in 1781, and a German edition at Frankfurt and Leipzig in 1783. The third edition which is the best and most correct appeared both in octavo and quarto form, and is that to which reference is made in this paper. It is entitled:

"Account of the Russian discoveries between Asia and America. To which are added the Conquest of Siberia, and the history of the transactions and commerce between Russia and China, [etc.]. London: T. Cadell, 1787."

410 pp. 8° [or 4°] with four charts and one plate; to which is added, consecutively paged:

"A comparative view of the Russian discoveries with those made by Captains Cook and Clerke, and a sketch of what remains to be ascertained by future navigators. London: T. Cadell, 1787." 3 l. unp., 417-456 pp. 8°.

The latter was also separately issued. Among the maps contained in this work of Coxe's are a reduced copy of the general map of Russia issued by the Imperial Academy of Sciences, St. Petersburg, 1776, and a chart of Synd's Voyage toward Chukotski Noss.

The latter is the only chart of Synd's voyage (1764-1768) which is accessible, and it is vouched for as authentic by Dr. Coxe. Compared with later charts it is, of course, extremely imperfect yet there is in it enough resemblance to the truth to enable us to recognize what was intended in many instances. In the northeastern part of the chart, the latitudes are exaggerated and the longitudes contracted in a very erroneous manner. Nevertheless we recognize East Cape, here named "Prom. Tschukotskoi;" the two islands now called the Diomedes but here left nameless; a large island, moved eastward out of place, but doubtless intended for Arakam Island, is called "I. Diomedis;" while among a crowd of islets (referable to the hills of St. Lawrence Island seen through a fog and laid down very inaccurately), the name "S. Diomedis" appears again. The American coast was seen and landed upon; Cape Prince of Wales and the shore south and east from it are recognizable. The island of St. Mathew was discovered and named, though placed a degree too far south. The island of St. Paul in the Pribiloff group was discovered by Synd, put in its true latitude, and named Preobrazhenia or Transfiguration Island. It is about seven degrees out in relative longitude and fourteen in absolute longitude. One cannot doubt however that it was the island now known as St. Paul when we recall the fact that there are no other islands than the Pribiloff group, in that latitude or within that general area of Bering Sea. The southern Cape of the Chukchi Peninsula, Chukotski Cape of Bering and Müller is represented two degrees too far south. Preobrazhenia Bay is not recognizable but the name is transferred to the bight west and north of Cape Bering of our present charts. This part of the coast was not however approached by Synd, who spent much time on the coast of Kamchatka. On his chart this peninsula is represented better than we should have expected from the rudeness of the rest.

The map of the Academy shows the influence of those who discredited the near approach of America to eastern Siberia; notwithstanding the explorations of Deshneff, Gvosdeff and Synd, the American shore of Bering Strait has disappeared altogether. The eastern portion of the Chukchi Peninsula is indented by a host of hypothetical inlets, and defended by an unrecognizable archipelago of nameless islands. The far-stretching chain of islands, among which Bering's second expedition was so long entangled, excepting those confirmed by Krenitzen and Levasheff (who sailed far north of the southern arc of the chain) is also absent. Excepting that the fictitious peninsula north from Chukchi land is effaced, the map in its main features for this region is less accurate than that of Bering, and does not compare very favorably with that of Müller. And yet but shortly after its publication, the explorations of Cook and Clerke recorded the facts which should, when published, exalt the memory of the older geographers and scatter the hypotheses which for a time prevailed against them.

Their explorations are included in

"A voyage to the Pacific Ocean, undertaken by the command of his Majesty, for making discoveries in the northern hemisphere, [etc.], performed under the direction of captains Cook, Clerke and Gore, in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and Discovery, in the years 1776-1780. London, for T. Nicol and T. Cadell, 1784-5." 3 volumes 4° and atlas folio.

This is the edition ordered by the Admiralty. Of this celebrated work, said to have been written from the explorers' manuscripts by Bishop Douglas, there have been many editions. In the Bulletin of the Société de Géographie, Paris, 1879, pp. 481-540, is a bibliography by James Jackson.

The most interesting points in regard to Cook's explorations about Bering Strait are comprised on the chart (vol. ii, p. 467) entitled:

"Chart of Norton Sound and of Bherings Strait made by the East Cape of Asia and the west point of America."

On this chart the main features of the coast on either side of the strait are correctly indicated, though several of the inlets and bays are wanting. The Diomedes and Fairway Rock of modern charts are located but left without names, King's Island is named; Arakam was not recognized as an island nor was Point Chaplin (Indian Point) observed. St. Lawrence Island was seen in foggy weather. Its isolated hills connected by very low flat land led Cook into the error of supposing that it comprised several islands, one of which he correctly referred to that named St. Lawrence by Bering and the rest he lumped under the name of Clerke's Islands. A single fictitious island, midway between St. Lawrence and King's appears on the chart, but is not named or mentioned in the text. St. Lawrence Bay is named and discovered. Bering and Müller's Chukotski cape is correctly identified. East Cape is well delineated, and the name Serdze Kamen (Heart-Rock) originally given to a cliff or bluff point at the entrance of Holy Cross Bay is transferred to a point on the Arctic shore of the peninsula. There is a confused and somewhat curious history connected with the use of the names Serdze-Kamen and Chukotski Cape. After the travels of Deshneff, Popoff and others and the reception at various times of information from the natives, it was pretty generally understood among the hunters and traders of this region that the extreme of Asia was a cape or point on or near which the Chukchi dwelt, or which they described, which was not definitely located, and which was vaguely known as the Chukchi Cape or the Cape of the Chukchis, Chukotski Noss in the Russian tongue. Cape Serdze Kamen will be found on the chart of Billings' Voyage. It was the point where the Chukchis successfully defended themselves against the invading Russians who sought to force them to pay tribute. Beyond it, for the Russians all was mysterious Chukchi country with an unknown coast. This cape being their _ne plus ultra_ it is probable that it was more or less confounded by these illiterate and ignorant hunters with the supposed eastern Cape of Asia, otherwise the Cape of the Chukchis as used by Müller. Admit this and it is not difficult to frame an hypothesis which shall account for the confusion, without recourse to the absurd charges with which Lauridsen attempts to soil the reputation of Müller, Steller and others.

When Bering named a cape near which he met a baidar-load of Chukchi who gave him some geographical information (among other things that the coast made a turn after passing it) he called this cape with great propriety the Cape of the Chukchis, as observed by Cook (ii, p. 474) and with no reference to the legendary Cape of the Chukchis above referred to.

But when Müller and others more familiar with the records of the earlier explorers came to make maps, they naturally applied the legendary name to the cape which they supposed to be the eastern end of Asia, and beyond which the coast makes a turn to the west. Müller believing in a great cape or peninsula on the northern coast of the Chukchi country supposed this to be the true Cape Chukotski, and to the eastern Cape of Bering he left the name of Serdze-Kamen, probably knowing little about the original Cape Serdze. And as Bering, by the ambiguity of his journal, gave color to the idea that he had rounded East Cape and pursued the north coast west of it for a few hours before turning homeward, what more natural than that those little acquainted with the region should speak of his turning back from near Serdze-Kamen? Thus Cook, following out the same idea derived from his study of the map and journal in Harris, transferred the name to a point in the latitude at which Bering turned back, on the coast which he supposed him to have surveyed. There is plenty of confusion here but no just ground for supposing malice in it.

A publication which throws much light upon Bering's voyage of 1728 was printed by Vasili Nikolaievich Bergh (or Berkh) a well known writer on geographical matters in connection with Russian history. It is in the Russian language and the title may be translated as follows:

First Sea Voyages of the Russians undertaken for the settlement of this geographical problem--Are Asia and America united?--and performed in 1727, 28 and 29, under the command of fleet captain of the first rank, Vitus Bering. To which is added a short biographical account of Captain Bering and some of his officers. St. Petersburg, Academical printing office, 1823. 8°. 3 pr. l. iv, 126 pp. 1 map. Russian text.

This book was printed, as many private books are, at the printing office of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, but was not published or printed by the Academy. The only copies I know of are those in the library of the Academy and one in the British Museum library, neither of which I have been able personally to consult. But through the kind offices of Dr. S. Hertzenstein, of the Zoological Museum of the Academy, I learn that Bergh found in the Archives of the State Admiralty Department the logbook of midshipman Peter Chaplin entitled, "Midshipman Peter Chaplin's journal of the Kamchatka expedition of 1725-1731." From this MSS and from the notes of G. F. Müller and Admiral Nagaieff, Bergh compiled his work. Chaplin's journal is not reprinted verbatim but only paraphrased by Bergh who adds his own commentary on the subject matter, and occasionally gives extracts from Chaplin whose logbook seems to have been kept in a model way.

An effort will be made to obtain a copy of the original logbook,[7] but for the present we are obliged to be content with what of authenticity remains to the data which have been translated or paraphrased by Bergh, Lauridsen and Olson, necessarily submitting to more or less modification in the process.

[Footnote 7: Simultaneously with the proofs of this paper the work of Bergh has been communicated to me through the liberality of the University of Upsala, Sweden. The results of a critical examination of it will form the subject of a later paper as the present publication cannot be delayed.]

The most authentic and important document for the history of this voyage is naturally the official report handed in by Bering himself and printed in the Journal of the Military Topographical Depot of the Russian Army, volume x, pp. 67-79, St. Petersburg, 1847.

This journal is a quarto and the report is printed _verbatim et literatim_ if one may judge by the archaic and mispelled words with which it is adorned. It comprises Bering's report including his instructions, a table of geographical positions, and a painfully detailed table of routes and distances by which his position in Kamchatka was computed. This report has never been translated in full and unmodified, the original is thought to have been lost. The present publication is not referred to by Lauridsen and was apparently unknown to him. I have therefore thought it worth while to prepare an English version of the report and geographical table which are incorporated in this paper.

The result shows that the previous versions of the report which have appeared were more or less mutilated or colored by the editors printing them, probably with the view of making the report of more popular interest to their readers but with injurious results to its historic value for reference.

We now come to the latest contributions to the subject. If it were not for the deficiencies in them, which seem to me serious, this paper would not have been prepared, but it seemed to be a pity that the sources of information in regard to Bering, accessible to those who do not read Russian should not be both more impartial and more accurate.

Vitus J. Bering og de Russiske opdagelsesrejser fra 1725-43. Af P. Lauridsen. Udgivet med understöttelse af den Hielmstierne-Rosencroneske stiftelse. Kjöbenhavn. Gyldendalske Boghandels forlag (F. Hegel & Sön). Fr. Bagges bogtrykkeri, 1885. Small 4°, six prel. l. 211 pp., 4 sheets of charts, one plate, one wood-cut.

This work is an attempt at a life of Bering which should combine an account of his career with a reversal of the generally received opinion in regard to his indecision of character. It embodies a general polemic against those who at different times have criticised the explorer. It contains a paraphrase of some portions of Bergh's work which had not previously been accessible in any language except the Russian, yet which would have been much more valuable in the shape of exact translation and quotation. The author labored under the disadvantages of not understanding the language in which all the original records both printed and in manuscript are written; of having little or no familiarity with nautical surveying or cartography; and of being apparently unacquainted with the best modern charts of the region. His criticisms of others are couched in very heated and not altogether parliamentary language, and he is the victim of a narrow spirit of nationalism which is sometimes mistaken for patriotism. Nevertheless he has brought together a great deal of information; it is evident, in spite of his violent criticisms, that he has not intended to be unfair, since he puts on record in several instances evidence damaging to his own views which would not otherwise have come to light; and he has certainly exhibited Bering's valuable qualities in a manner which will do much towards rehabilitating his reputation.[8]

[Footnote 8: I may take opportunity in this place of replying to certain criticisms of Mr. Lauridsen on the chronological chapter of my work on Alaska and its Resources published in 1870.

That chapter was and was stated in its introductory paragraph to be a compilation from the authorities on the subject. It contained no original matter except that relating to explorations subsequent to 1865.

For Bering's two voyages I consulted the report on the Russian Discoveries printed by order of the Empress and under the auspices of the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg, prepared by the distinguished geographer Müller, himself a member of the second expedition and personally acquainted with the actors in those scenes. No more authoritative printed document exists on the subject. The supposed errors animadverted upon by Mr. Lauridsen are either taken directly from Müller, or are inferences drawn from his report. Some of them the critic has misunderstood or misconstrued, which from the necessarily extreme condensation of my table is particularly easy. The expression of surprise that Bering passed through Bering Strait without seeing the Diomedes, was warranted by the fact that Bering nowhere mentions their name or speaks of seeing any islands in their location, nor are they on his earliest printed charts. This point, however, will be more fully dealt with later. If I were to re-write that chapter I should probably modify the criticisms of Bering's character which appear in it; but at the time it was written I was fresh from four years' exploration in the same region, and was particularly impressed with his failure to secure better results when to do so would have been so easy, as well as directly in the line of his duty.]

Review: Bulletin of the American Geographical Society for 1885. New York, the Society, 1885. pp. 285-298.

This review forms part of a "Reply to criticisms upon the voyage of the Vega around Asia and Europe," by Baron A. E. von Nordenskiold, translated from the Swedish by Vere A. Elfwing. It is addressed only toward certain points in Lauridsen's work, and contains valuable corrections of certain errors therein, and information in regard to the work of Strahlenberg and the other early cartographers of Eastern Siberia. It is a translation of a paper published in _Ymer_ for 1885, to which for exact accuracy reference should be made.

Russian explorations, 1725-1743. Vitus Bering: the discoverer of Bering Strait. By Peter Lauridsen (etc.). Revised by the author and translated from the Danish by Julius E. Olson (etc.). Chicago, S. C. Griggs & Company, 1889. 8° xvi, 223 pp., 2 cuts, 2 folding sheets of maps.

This edition is a good deal condensed, especially in the matter of references, and does not have all the illustrations of the original. There are also a good many slips or typographical errors, which affect its value as a work of reference. Some of those important in connection with the present paper are as follows: page 31, line 4, "60° 50' N." latitude should be "62° 50'." On the last line of the same page "longitude" should be "latitude." Page 32, after "cloudy weather" in the second line from the bottom, the whole remaining record of August 15th is omitted altogether. The sentence beginning "From noon" relates to August 16th, nautical reckoning. Page 33, line 5, "30° 19' east" should be "30° 17' east;" line 20 after "half west" should be inserted "south by east, by compass." Page 51, line 4 from bottom, "latitude" should be "longitude."

Review: Nation (The) New York, vol. xlix, No. 1275, p. 454. Dec. 5, 1889.

I may add that a number of references to Russian articles treating of Bering will be found in my Bibliography of charts and publications relating to Alaska and adjacent region, published by the U. S. Coast Survey in 1879.

REPORT OF FLEET-CAPTAIN BERING ON HIS EXPEDITION TO THE EASTERN COAST OF SIBERIA.

To the most Serene Sovereign, the high and powerful, the Empress of all the Russias:

A short relation of the Siberian Expedition upon which was sent

Of your Imperial Majesty the most humble servant and fleet-captain,
W. I. BERING.

On February 5 of the late year 1725 I received from her Imperial Majesty the Empress Ekaterina Alexievna, of happy and well-deserving memory, the autographic instructions of his Imperial Majesty Peter the Great, of happy and well-deserving memory, a copy of which is hereunto affixed.

_Instructions._

(1.) There should be built on the Kamchatka [River], or at some other place adjacent, one or two boats with decks.

(2.) With these boats [you are directed] to sail along the coast which extends northwards and which is supposed (since no one knows the end of it) to be continuous with America.

(3.) And therefore [you are directed] to seek the point where it connects with America and to go to some settlement under European rule, or if any European vessel is seen, learn of it what the coast visited is called, which should be taken down in writing, an authentic account prepared, placed on the chart and brought back here.

* * * * *

The following were the instructions given me by the former General Admiral Count Apraxin, in which were written: "Artisans, laborers and whatever, in my opinion, is necessary for the expedition, are to be demanded from the chancellor's office of the government of Tobolsk and monthly reports sent to the Imperial Admiralty College."

Before receiving these instructions, January 24, a lieutenant and 26 men of my command had been ordered to service on the expedition by the Admiralty College with the necessary equipment for 25 wagons. The whole number of my command sent out amounted to 33 men who were ordered to Vologdie and from St. Petersburg to Tobolsk by a route which passed through the towns here named: through Vologdie, Totma, Upper Ustiuk, Solwichergodsk, Kaigorodok, Solkamsk, Verkhoturia, Turinsk, Epanchin and Tiumen.

On the 16th day of March we arrived at Tobolsk and were there until the 15th day of May because of the lateness of the season interfering with travel. During the delay at Tobolsk requisitions were made for the necessary outfit for the expedition.

May 15th we left Tobolsk by water down the Irtish to Samarovska Yama, on four boats of the kind called by the Siberians "dostcheniki," on which were loaded all the outfit brought from St. Petersburg or obtained at Tobolsk; together with a chaplain, commissary, sub-officers and thirty-four soldiers.

I had previously sent a garde-marine officer, on a small boat furnished by the Tobolsk authorities in obedience to the orders of the Naval College, to the proper settlements where the preparation of freight-boats had been ordered on the Yenisei and Uskut rivers, and I ordered him to sail to Yakutsk.

From Samarovska Yama the Obi river was ascended to Surgut and to Narim, and thence the Ket river to Makovska post. From Tobolsk to Makovska as we traveled live Ostiaks who were formerly idolaters, but, since the year 1715, through the labors of the Metropolitan of Tobolsk they have been converted to the true faith. From Makovska post to Yeniseisk the route lay overland. From Yeniseisk to the Ilima-mouth we proceeded also in four boats by way of the Yenisei and Tunguska rivers. On the Tunguska there are three rapids and several shoals; rapids be it understood where across the whole width of the river large rocks stand high in the water, with a passage only in one or two places; and shoals, similarly under water and above water but composed of small stones, alternate with rapids and with places where the water in the river is shallow for the distance of one or two versts, and which are not surmounted without a great deal of labor. From Yeniseisk in pursuance of orders from Tobolsk we took thirty men, carpenters and smiths.

On the Ilima river, on account of rapids, bars and shoal water, the barges could not be taken to Ilimsk. For a certain distance only small canoes were available, for which reason the heaviest part of the outfit was reserved to be sent by sledges in winter.

Lieut. Spanberg, with a party of thirty-nine carpenters and laborers, went by land from Ilimsk by the Uskut to the river Lena, to prepare during the winter fifteen barges on which the command and its equipment should be floated down to Yakutsk. I remained with the rest of the party near Ilimsk just below the Uskut, because at Ilimsk there are few houses and on account of the difficulties involved in a winter journey to Yakutsk, from the deficiencies of transportation, the deep snow and the severe cold, which prevented us from proceeding.

To these reasons [was added] the necessity, according to the orders from the authorities at Tobolsk, of drawing the provisions for the expedition from Irkutsk and from Ilimsk down to Yakutsk because at the latter place grain is not cultivated. During our wintering at Ilimsk I made a sledge journey to Irkutsk to advise with the local Voivod who had previously been Voivod at Yakutsk and who understood what would be needed by us in transporting our outfit from Yakutsk to Okhotsk and Kamchatka, since I did not possess any actual information in regard to that region. During the last days of winter travel I went over to the Uskut and obtained from Irkutsk twenty additional carpenters and smiths for the work of the expedition and two coopers from Ilimsk.

On the Tunguska, Ilima and Lena rivers to the Vitim live the so-called Tunguses, people who own reindeer which they use as draught animals, while those who do not own deer live near the rivers on fish and travel in canoes made of birch bark. These people are idolaters.

From Uskutsk on fifteen barges, in the spring of 1726, we descended the Lena to Yakutsk. From the river Vitim down to the Lena, on both banks live Yakuts with a smaller proportion of Tunguses. The Yakuts possess herds of cattle, plenty of horses and cows by which they subsist, and are contented with the product of their herds, depending but little on fish except where their cattle are too few. They pay an idolatrous reverence to the sun and moon as well as to birds, such as the swan, eagle and crow. They also hold in great honor their own fortunetellers, known hereabouts as _shamani_, each of whom owns small idols or figures which they call _shaitan_. By their own account these people are of Tartar origin.

On reaching Yakutsk in boats I required the aid of all the people of my command. Thirteen flat-bottomed barges which had been constructed at Uskutsk, under Lieut. Spanberg, proceeded by water on the Lena down to the Aldan to ascend that river, the Maya and the upper Yudoma. Such a cargo could hardly have been transported to that distance overland on horseback where but little in the way of subsistence was obtainable from land or water. The Cross of Yudoma might only be reached with great difficulty, but if successful the expense would be less than if the material had been carried on the backs of horses. I myself with a few people crossed from Yakutsk to Okhotsk with pack horses, as is the general custom. The load or pack taken is only about five puds to one horse, less than by the telega [ordinary cart], the deep mire and high mountains to be traversed not permitting more, though my supplies amounted to 1600 puds. At the post called Okhotsk is a Russian village of only ten houses, and Lieut. Chirikoff was left to winter at Yakutsk with orders to come overland to the Okhotsk post in the spring.

In the last days of December, 1726, a message asking for assistance was received from Lieut. Spanberg, who had been dispatched by the river, saying that the boats had failed to get within 450 versts of Yudoma Cross and were frozen in on the Gorbeh River, where he was transporting by sledges a cargo of outfit indispensable to our party. I sent at once, from among those who were wintering with me at the post of Okhotsk, a party with dogs and supplies and brought in the Lieutenant to the post on the first day of January, 1727, but without any of the outfit, he having left the Gorbeh river November 4th, 1726. His command had been obliged by hunger to eat the flesh of their horses and even the rawhide harness, the skin of their fur clothing and the untanned uppers of their shoes. Their cargo was all left at four different places along the route, which lay through uninhabited country. The only addition to their means which they had been able to secure, was some of our own flour, to the amount of 150 puds, which on my overland journey I had been obliged to leave near Yudoma Cross on account of the death of some of my pack-horses.

Along the rivers Aldan and Maia live Yakuts of the same stock as those of the Lena and Yudoma rivers. But near and around the post of Okhotsk wander the seaside Tunguses and some Lamuts with their herds and many reindeer, who travel about winter and summer where their deer can find pasturage; and some pedestrian Tunguses who live near the sea and rivers and are professional fishermen as among the Yakuts.

February 1, ninety men with some dogs and sledges were collected and sent under Lieut. Spanberg to bring in the outfit left behind by the Yudoma river, and by the 1st of April about half of it had been transported safely to Okhotsk. Since more remained I sent twenty-seven men to Yudoma Cross to bring over the rest of the material on pack-horses from that place, who returned in May.

In this region in winter time from Yakutsk to Okhotsk and other distant places people always travel on foot in parties of eight or ten, hauling their own sledges after them. Those belonging to our command, when sent from Gorbeh to Okhotsk, brought down ten or fifteen puds or more, the snow being seven feet deep in places and travelers in winter being obliged to dig out a camp every evening, down to the ground to keep warm.

June 30, Lieut. Spanberg in his newly built vessel sailed across the sea to the port of Bolsheretsk with a cargo of outfit and supplies and the material for the shipbuilders and workmen of our command, sent to Kamchatka to get out the timbers for a vessel, being ordered to return again for us.

July 3d, Lieut. Chirikoff arrived from Yakutsk with 2300 puds of flour, according to my instructions.

August 21, we loaded the new vessel which had returned from the land of Kamchatka, and another old boat which had been at Bolsheretsk, with the flour, and the whole command then at Okhotsk proceeded across the sea to Bolsheretsk. The officer who had been left to guard the provisions which had not arrived from the wintering place on the Gorbeh river was directed to float them down again and take a receipt from the authorities at Yakutsk and endeavor, the following year, to deliver to the command in Kamchatka some part of the provisions, iron and tar.

It was necessary to take the supplies from the mouth of the [Bolshoia] river to the post of Bolsheretsk by water in small boats. At the post were fifteen houses inhabited by Russians. For the ascent of the shallow river small boats had been built as I desired that the outfit and the most necessary part of the provisions should be transported to the upper Kamchatka post, a distance of 120 versts by water. The transportation between Bolsheretsk and Upper and Lower Kamchatka in winter was entirely carried on by the use of the native dogs. Every evening it is necessary to dig out the camp in the snow, in order to get shelter from whirlwinds of snow which in this region are called _poorga_. If one makes camp in an open place free from snow, these snow squalls are liable to overwhelm the party and they may perish.

At Upper Kamchatka there are seventeen and at Lower Kamchatka fifty houses, at another place [Middle Kamchatka] where there is a church are fifteen houses, and in all these settlements there are not over 150 Russian subjects, who live by the collection of the _yassak_ [tribute money], beside those who were brought to the country on our expedition.

In coming over to Bolsheretsk we brought 300 puds of whale blubber obtained from a whale cast up by the sea, which served us as money, together with the Circassian tobacco which is here commonly so used.

In the southern part of Kamchatka live Kuriles, in the northern part Kamchadales, whose language is peculiarly their own with but few introduced words. Of these people some are idolaters, others believe in nothing and are strangers to all honesty. The Russians who live in Kamchatka and the indigenes grow no grain and have no domestic animals except draught dogs. They dress and subsist upon what they can get, principally fish, roots and berries, in summer time wild fowl and large marine animals. At present in the wilderness of Yakutsk, the convent, which is of the same age as the Kamchatka churches, cultivates barley, hemp and turnips. Here only turnips are grown by the people of the three settlements, but they grow very large, in Russia they are smaller, here there may be four turnips to a pud. I brought with me on my journey some rye which was sowed around the establishments near us, but whether it ripened or not I did not ascertain. The frost strikes early into the ground in this region and the absence of cattle renders it difficult for the people to plow.

The natives described and from whom the yassak [tribute] is collected, belong to the Russian Empire and are all savages. They are known for their dirt and bad passions. If a woman or any animal brings forth twins then one of them is smothered, the hour it is born, and it is regarded as a great fault if one does not smother one of the two.

The Kamchadales are very superstitious. If there is any one who is very ill, even a father or mother, or near the point of death, they will carry them out into the woods and leave them without nourishment for a week together whether it be winter or summer, from which treatment many die. The dead are not covered with earth but are dragged out and left to be eaten by dogs. The house of a man who has died is abandoned. Among the Kariak people it is the custom to burn the body, although this is forbidden.

By the time of our arrival at the Lower Kamchatka post the ship-timber for our vessel was in large part prepared, and upon the 4th of April, 1728, was put upon the stocks for the vessel, which, with God's help, was finished by the 10th of July, the timber being hauled by dogs. Tar was made from the native tree which is called _Listvennik_ [spruce], since the tar which we should have brought with us had not arrived.

Before this it was not known here that tar could be obtained from the native trees. So also for the sea voyage, the deficiency of spirit made from grain was supplied by a liquor distilled from herbs, and salt was made by boiling sea water. To increase our store of sea provisions, in place of cow's butter, fat was tried out from fish, in place of meat fish was salted. The vessel was provisioned with everything needful for forty men for a year. On the 14th day of July we went out of the mouth of the Kamchatka river into the sea, in obedience to the autographic orders given me by his Imperial Majesty Peter the Great, as the map constructed for that purpose will show.

August 8th, having arrived in north latitude 64° 30', eight men rowed to us from the shore in a skin-boat, enquiring from whence we came and what was our business there. They said they were Chukchi, (whom the Russians of these parts have long known) and as we lay to they were urged to come to the vessel. They inflated some floats made of sealskin and sent one man swimming to us to talk, then the boat came up to the vessel and they told us that on the coast lived many of their nation; that the land not far from there takes a decided turn to the westward, and they also said that at no great distance from where we were, we should see an island. This proved true, but we saw nothing valuable upon it except huts. This island in honor of the day we named St. Lawrence, but we were not able to see any people upon it, though an officer was sent in a boat from the vessel on two occasions to look for inhabitants.

On the 15th of August we arrived in the latitude of 67° 18' and I judged that we had clearly and fully carried out the instructions given by his Imperial Majesty of glorious and ever deserving memory, because the land no longer extended to the north. Neither from the Chukchi coast nor to the eastward could any extension of the land be observed. If we should continue on our course and happen to have contrary winds we could not get back to Kamchatka before the close of navigation and might be obliged to winter in that region, not only without a harbor, but where no fuel could anywhere be obtained, where the native people do not acknowledge the authority of the Russian government, but are wholly independent and united against us in refusing to pay tribute.

From the mouth of the Kamchatka river and all the way to this place along the seacoast wind elevated mountains, resembling a wall in steepness, and from which the snow does not disappear in summer.

On the 20th of August four canoes were observed rowing toward us, containing about forty people who were Chukchi of the same sort as those whom we had met before. They brought for sale meat, fresh water, fish, fox skins, of which fifteen were of the white fox, and four walrus teeth, which my people bought of them for needles and flint-and-steels. They said that some among them had been overland with reindeer to the Kolyma river and that they never went by sea to the Kolyma; but, at a great distance, by the seashore lived some of our people, born Russians, people whom they had known for a long time, and one of them said that he had been at the Anadyr post to trade. To other questions they gave the same answers as the Chukchi previously seen.

On the 2d of September we entered the mouth of the Kamchatka river and wintered at the post of Lower Kamchatka.

On the 5th of June, 1729, having repaired the vessel which had been laid up, we went out of the mouth of the Kamchatka river and put to sea to the eastward, because the inhabitants of Kamchatka declared that on fine days land could be seen across the sea. Though none of our own people had observed it, we went out to determine the authenticity of the information. We sailed nearly 200 versts and saw not the slightest trace of land. We sailed around the south point of Kamchatka to the mouth of the Bolshoia river, making a chart of this part which had not previously been delineated. From the mouth of the Bolshoia river we sailed across the sea to the post of Okhotsk having left at Lower Kamchatka and at Bolsheretsk, out of the supplies received by us from the authorities of Yakutsk, flour, meal and dry salt meat to the amount of 800 puds.

On the 23d of July the vessel reached the mouth of the Okhotsk river, where the outfit and supplies of the expedition were turned over to the governor and I, with my command, on hired horses, crossed over to Yudoma Cross and thence in canoes down the Aldan river, crossing over at Belskoi and below, and carrying everything on pack horses over to Yakutsk.

The whole journey occupied the time from Okhotsk, July 29th, to Yakutsk on the 29th of August. We remained in Yakutsk until September 3d, and from September 10th until October 1st traveled in two barges on the Lena when we were arrested by ice at the settlement of Peleduie. Here we were detained until the 29th of October, by the absence of snow and the presence of small ice in the Lena. When the ice solidified we proceeded to Ilimsk and from Ilimsk to Yeniseisk on the Tunguska river, stopping at Russian settlements; and from Yeniseisk to Tomsk with Russians and converted Tartars; from Tomsk to Chausk Ostrog, Russian settlements; from Chausk to Tari by the Barabinskoi steppe; from Tari to Tobolsk by the Irtish river among the Tartars; arriving at Tobolsk January 10, 1730. From Tobolsk for St. Petersburg we left on the 25th of the same month, following the same route by which we originally reached Tobolsk from the capital. We arrived in St. Petersburg March 1, 1730.

* * * * *

_Note._--The extensive tabular itinerary covering two quarto pages, showing the details of the route traversed in going to Kamchatka, the distances and directions from point to point (except during the sea voyages), the native tribes in the region traversed, etc.--is not reproduced, as it contains no information of importance in the present connection. The other table, showing the astronomical position estimated for the more important places is herewith transcribed.

To get the approximate Greenwich longitude 67° should be added to the longitudes in the table which are reckoned from Tobolsk.

I have provided a tabular itinerary, which shows the dates of the events of the expedition, derived from Bering's Report and from other sources, which are indicated by letters. B stands for Brookes' edition of Du Halde; H for Campbell's version in Harris; M for Müller's account; and L for Lauridsen. The astronomical events are taken from Oppolzer's standard catalogue of solar and lunar eclipses.

It will be noted in the following tables there are a few discrepancies of single days compared with Lauridsen's account or other authorities. These I take to be due to the use in the ship's journal of the nautical day in which the nautical second day of the month begins on the first calendar day at noon and ends at noon on the second calendar day, so that events occurring during the first twelve hours of the nautical day would have a date one day later than the true calendar date.

_Catalogue of the towns and notable Siberian places put on the chart through which the route passes, with their latitude and longitude, the latter computed from Tobolsk._

--------------------------------------+-------------+------------
Cities and Places. | Latitude N. | Long. E. of
| | Tobolsk.
--------------------------------------+-------------+------------
Tobolsk | 58° 05' | 00° 00'
Samarofska Yama | 60 17 | 00 30
Town of Surgut | 60 51 | 5 18
Town of Narim | 58 48 | 14 35
Ketskoi post | 58 19 | -- --[9]
Losinoborski convent | 58 17 | -- --[9]
Makoffska post | 58 03 | 23 13
Yeniseisk | 58 20 | 25 12
Kashim convent | 58 37 | 32 00
House of Simakhina, Ilima river mouth | 57 25 | 35 16
Ilimsk | 56 40 | 36 44
Ust Kutskoi post | 56 40 | 38 26
Kirinski post | 57 50 | 41 01
Yakutsk | 62 08 | 57 53
Okhotsk post | 59 13 | 76 07
Mouth of Bolshoia river, Kamchatka | 52 42 | 89 51
Upper Kamchatka post | 54 48 | -- --[9]
Lower Kamchatka post | 56 11 | -- --[9]
Mouth of Kamchatka river | 56 03 | 96 10
Cape St. Thaddeus | 62 20 | 111 32
West cape, Holy Cross bay | 65 35 | 115 15
East cape, Holy Cross bay | 65 28 | 115 37
Preobrazhenia bay | 65 01 | 120 30
Chukotski cape, east end | 64 25 | 122 55
St. Lawrence island | 64 00 | 122 55
St. Diomede island | 66 00 | 125 42
Place from which we turned back | 67 18 | 126 07
South cape of Kamchatka | 51 10 | 89 51
--------------------------------------+-------------+------------

[Footnote 9: These longitudes absent from Bering's own report are supplied by Campbell in his list, probably from the chart.]

In the Table of positions the addition of 67° will reduce the longitudes to E. of Greenwich. It is probably from this table that Dr. Campbell derived his list, in Harris, which is, barring some additions, errors, and mistranslations, much the same. As Bering does not give any longitude for Lower Kamchatka post it is highly improbable that he observed it at that place, by means of a lunar eclipse or otherwise.

Chirikoff's observation of a lunar eclipse at Ilimsk made that point 30° 13' east longitude from Tobolsk or, approximately, 97° 13' east from Greenwich. His pedometric observations placed Ilimsk in 103° 44' E. Gr. On recent charts Ilimsk is in about 104° E. Gr., so that the eclipse observation was in error about 6½ degrees. The meridian used on the voyage of 1728 was that of Lower Kamchatka, based on pedometric observations from Ilimsk computed by means of a traverse table. These, according to Chirikoff's journal, gave for the Lower Kamchatka post a meridian of 126° 01' 49" east from St. Petersburg or about 156° 02' east from Greenwich, which is in error about six and a quarter degrees. Discarding the eclipse observation and using only the pedometric observations from Tobolsk to Lower Kamchatka the result for that place is 162° 33' E. Gr., which is very near the truth. I have no doubt that this result is what was finally used in the chart (though not in the original report) and, therefore, that all the observations of Lauridsen and others in regard to the alleged eclipse in Kamchatka are based on a misunderstanding and without value.

ITINERARY FOR BERING'S FIRST EXPEDITION.

_Dates corrected to ordinary calendar, beginning at midnight._

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The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. II., No. 2, May, 1890Chapter III: Part 3

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