Chapter II: Part I: Chap. I

The Description of the _Cocao-Tree_.

The _Cocao-Tree_ is moderately tall and thick, and either thrives, or not, according to the Quality of the Soil wherein it grows: Upon the Coast of _Caraqua_, for instance, it grows considerably larger than in the Islands belonging to the _French_.

Its _Wood_ is porous, and very light; the _Bark_ is pretty firm, and of the Colour of _Cinnamon_, more or less dark, according to the Age of the Tree. The _Leaves_ are about nine Inches long, and four in breadth, where they are broadest; for they grow less towards the two Extremities, where they terminate in a point: their Colour is a little darkish, but more bright above than underneath; they are joined to Stalks three Inches long, and the tenth part of an Inch broad. This Stalk, as it enters the Leaf, makes a strait Rib, a little raised along the Middle, which grows proportionably less the nearer it comes to the End. From each side of this Rib proceed thirteen or fourteen crooked Threads alternately.

As these Leaves only fall off successively, and in proportion as others grow again, this Tree never appears naked: It is always flourishing, but more especially so towards the two _Solstices_, than in the other Seasons.

The _Blossoms_, which are regular and like a Rose, but very small, and without smell, proceed from the Places from which the old Leaves fall, as it were in Bunches. A large Quantity of these fall off, for hardly Ten of a Thousand come to good, insomuch that the Earth underneath seems cover'd over with them.

Every _Blossom_ is joined to the Tree by a slender Stalk half an Inch or a little more in length; when it is yet in the Bud, it is one Fifth of an Inch broad, and about one fourth or a little more in length: when it was least, in proportion to the Tree and the Fruit, the more strange it appeared to me, and more worthy of Attention[a].

When the Buds begin to blow, one may consider the _Calix_, the _Foliage_, and the Heart of the Blossom. The _Calix_ is formed of the Cover of the Bud, divided into five Parts, or Leaves, of a very pale flesh-colour. These are succeeded by the five true Leaves of the same Colour, which fill up the empty Spaces or Partitions of the _Calix_. These Leaves have two Parts, the undermost of which is like an oblong Cup, striped with Purple; on the inside, it bends towards the Center by the help of a _Stamen_, which serves to fasten it; from this proceeds outwardly, the other Part of the Leaf, which seems to be separate from it, and is formed like the End of a Pike.

The Heart is composed of five Threads and five _Stamina_, with the _Pistilla_ in the middle. The Threads are strait, and of a purple Colour, and placed over-against the Intervals of the Leaves. The _Stamina_ are white, and bend outwardly with a kind of a Button on the top, which insinuates itself into the middle of each Leaf to sustain itself.

When one looks at these small Objects through a Microscope, one is ready to say, That the Point of the Threads is like Silver, and that the _Stamina_ are Chrystal; as well as the _Pistilla_, which Nature seems to have placed in the Center, either to be the _Primitiæ_ of the young Fruit, or to serve to defend it, if it be true that this Embryo unfolds itself, and is produced in no other place but the Base.

For want of observing these small Parts, as well as the Bulk of the Blossom, _F. Plumier_ had no distinct Knowledge of them, nor has he exactly design'd them, any more than _Mons. Tournefort_, who has done them after his Draught[b].

The _Cocao-Tree_ almost all the Year bears Fruit of all Ages, which ripen successively, but never grow on the end of little Branches, as our Fruits in _Europe_ do, but along the Trunk and the chief Boughs, which is not rare in these Countries, where several Trees do the like; such as the [1]_Cocoeiers_, the [2]_Apricots_ of St. _Domingo_, the [3]_Calebashes_, the [4]_Papaws_, &c.

Such an unusual Appearance would seem strange in the Eyes of _Europeans_, who had never seen any thing of that kind; but if one examines the Matter a little, the philosophical Reason of this Disposition is very obvious. One may easily apprehend, that if Nature had placed such bulky Fruit at the Ends of the Branches, their great Weight must necessarily break them, and the Fruit would fall before it came to Maturity.

The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is contained in a Husk or Shell, which from an exceeding small Beginning, attains, in the space of four Months, to the Bigness and Shape of a Cucumber; the lower End is sharp and furrow'd length-ways like a Melon[c].

This Shell in the first Months is either red or white, or a Mixture of red and yellow: This Variety of Colours makes three sorts of _Cocao-Trees_, which have nothing else to distinguish them but this, which I do not think sufficient to make in reality three different kinds of _Cocao-Nuts_[d].

The First is of a dark vinous Red, chiefly on the sides, which becomes more bright and pale as the Fruit ripens.

The Second, which is the White, or rather is at first of so pale a Green, that it may be mistaken for White; by little and little it assumes a Citron Colour, which still growing deeper and deeper, at length becomes entirely yellow.

The Third, which is Red and Yellow mix'd together, unites the Properties of the other two; for as they grow ripe, the Red becomes pale, and the Yellow grows more deep.

I have observed that the white Shells are thicker and shorter than the other, especially on the side towards the Tree, and that these sorts of Trees commonly bear most.

If one cleaves one of these Shells length-ways, it will appear almost half an Inch thick, and its Capacity full of Chocolate Kernels; the Intervals of which, before they are ripe, are fill'd with a hard white Substance, which at length turns into a Mucilage of a very grateful Acidity: For this reason, it is common for People to take some of the Kernels with their Covers, and hold them in their Mouths, which is mighty refreshing, and proper to quench Thirst. But they take heed of biting them, because the Films of the Kernels are extreamly bitter.

When one nicely examines the inward Structure of these Shells, and anatomizes, as it were, all their Parts; one shall find that the Fibres of the Stalk of the Fruit passing through the Shell, are divided into five Branches; that each of these Branches is subdivided into several Filaments, every one of which terminates at the larger End of these Kernels, and all together resemble a Bunch of Grapes, containing from twenty to thirty-five single ones, or more, ranged and placed in an admirable Order.

I cannot help observing here, what Inconsistency there is in the Accounts concerning the Number of Kernels in each Shell. [e]_Dampier_, for instance, says there is commonly near a Hundred; other Moderns[f] 60, 70 or 80, ranged like the Seeds of a Pomgranate. [g]_Thomas Gage_, 30 or 40; _Colmenero_[h] 10 or 12; and _Oexmelin_[i] 10 or 12, to 14.

I can affirm, after a thousand Tryals, that I never found more nor less than twenty-five. Perhaps if one was to seek out the largest Shells in the most fruitful Soil, and growing on the most flourishing Trees, one might find forty Kernels; but as it is not likely one should ever meet with more, so, on the other hand, it is not probable one should ever find less than fifteen, except they are abortive, or the Fruit of a Tree worn out with Age in a barren Soil, or without Culture.

When one takes off the Film that covers one of the Kernels, the Substance of it appears; which is tender, smooth, and inclining to a violet Colour, and is seemingly divided into several Lobes, tho' in reality they are but two; but very irregular, and difficult to be disengaged from each other, which we shall explain more clearly in speaking of its Vegetation. [k]_Oexmelin_ and several others have imagined, that a _Cocao_-Kernel was composed of five or six Parts sticking fast together; Father _Plumier_ himself fell into this Error, and has led others into it[l]. If the Kernel be cut in two length-ways, one finds at the Extremity of the great end, a kind of a longish [m]Grain, one fifth of an Inch long, and one fourth Part as broad, which is the _Germ_, or first Rudiments of the Plant; but in _European_ Kernels this Part is placed at the other end.

One may even see in _France_ this Irregularity of the Lobes, and also the _Germ_ in the Kernels that are roasted and cleaned to make Chocolate.

FOOTNOTES:

[a] _Piso_ says (_Montiss. Aromat. cap. 18._) that the Blossom is great and of a bright Yellow, _Flos est magnus & flavescens instar Croci_. A modern Author has transcribed this. Error of _Piso_; _Floribus_, says he, _magnis pentapetalis & flavis_. _Dale_ Pharmacologia, _Pag. 441_.

[b] Appen. Rei Herbariæ. _pag._ 660. _tab._ 444.

[1] [2] [3] [4] See the Remarks at the End of this Treatise.

[c] _Benzo_ says they grow ripe in a Year, as well as others after him, _Annuo Spatio maturescit, Benzo memorante_. Carol. Cluzio, l. c. _Annuo justam attingens Maturitatem Spatio_. Franc. Hernandes, _apud_ Anton. Rech. _In Hist. Ind. Occidental_, lib. 5. c. 1.

[d] It seems likely that the _Spanish_ Authors who say there are four Kinds of this at _Mexico_, have no better Foundation for the difference than this; and Mons. _Tournefort_ had reason to say after Father _Plumier_, that he only knew one Kind of this Tree. Cacao _Speciem Unicam novi_. _Append. Rei Herb._ pag. 660.

[e] _A new Voyage round the World._ Tom. 1. Ch. 3. p. 69.

[f] Pomet's _General History of Drugs_, Book vii. Ch. xiv. pag. 205. Chomel's _Abridgment of usual Plants_. Valentin. Hist. Simplicium reform. lib. 2.

[g] New Relation of the _East Indies_. Tom. 1. Part 2. Ch. 19.

[h] A curious Discourse upon Chocolate, by _Ant. Colmenero de Cedesma_, Physician and Chirurgeon at _Paris_ 1643.

[i] _The History of Adventures._ Tom. 1. Pag. 423.

[k] Ibid.

[l] In multas veluti Amygdalas fissiles. _Tournefort_ in Append. Rei Herb. _Pag. 660. & Tab. 444._

[m] I can't imagine upon what Foundation _Oexmelin_ could assert, that the _Spaniards_ in the making of their Chocolate, used nothing but this longish Grain, which he calls _Pignon_. Au Milieu desquelles Amandes de Cacao, est, _says he_, un petit Pignon, qui a la Germe fort tendre, & difficile à conserver; c'est de cette Semence que les Espaniols font la celebre Boisson de Chocolat. _Oexmelin_ Histoire des Avanturers, _Tom. 1. pag. 423_. He confirms more plainly the same Fancy, _Pag. 426_.

CHAP. II.

Of the Choice and Disposition of the Place for Planting _Cocao-Trees_.

The _Cocao-Tree_ grows naturally in several Countries in _America_ under the Torrid Zone, but chiefly at _Mexico_, in the Provinces of _Nicaragua_ and _Guatimala_, as also along the Banks of the River of the _Amazons_[n]. Likewise upon the Coast of _Caraqua_, that is to say, from Comana to Cartagena[o] and the _Golden Island_. Some also have been found in the Woods of _Martinico_.

The _Spaniards_ and _Portuguese_ were the first to whom the _Indians_ communicated the Use of _Cocao-Nuts_, which they kept a long time to themselves without acquainting other Nations with it; who in reality know so little of it at this day, that some _Dutch_ Corsairs, ignorant of the Value of some Prizes they had taken, out of contempt cast the Merchandize into the Sea, calling it in derision, in very indifferent _Spanish_, _Cacura de Carnero_[p], The Dung of Beasts.

In 1649[q] in the _Vert_ Islands, they had never seen but one Tree planted, which was in the Garden of an _English-Man_, an Inhabitant of the Island of _St. Croix_[r]. In 1655, the _Caribeans_[s] shewed to M. _du Parepet_ a _Cocao-Tree_ in the Woods of the Island of _Martinico_, whereof he was Governour. This discovery was the Foundation of several others of the same kind, in the Woods of the _Cape Sterre_[t] of this Island. And it is probable that the Kernels which were taken out of them, were the Original of those _Cocao-Trees_ that have been planted there since. A _Jew_ named _Benjamin_ planted the first about the Year 1660, but it was not till twenty or twenty-five Years after, that the Inhabitants of _Martinico_ apply'd themselves to the Cultivation of _Cocao-Trees_, and to raise Nurseries of them.

When one would raise a Nursery, it is necessary, above all things, to chuse a proper Place, in respect of Situation, and a Soil agreeable to the Nature of it.

The Place should be level, moist, and not exposed to Winds; a fresh, and (if one may be allow'd the Expression) a Virgin Soil, indifferently fat, light, and deep. For this reason, Ground newly cleared, whose Soil is black and sandy, which is kept moist by a River, and its Borders so high as to shelter it from the Winds, especially towards the Sea Coast, is preferable to any other; and they never fail putting it to this Use, when they are so happy as to find any of this sort.

I have said, _Ground newly cleared_, that is to say, whose Wood is cut down purposely for it; for it is necessary to observe, that they at present plant their Nurseries in the middle of Woods, which have been so time out of mind, and this for two weighty Reasons: The First, because the Wood that is left standing round it, may serve as a Shelter; and the Second, because there is less Trouble in weeding or grubbing it. The Ground that has never produced any Weeds, will send forth but few, for want of Seed.

As for Nurseries planted in high Ground, the Earth is neither moist nor deep enough, and commonly the chief Root which grows directly downwards, cannot pierce the hard Earth which it soon meets with. Besides, the Winds are more boisterous, and cause the Blossoms to fall off as soon as blown, and when a little high, overturn the Tree, whose Roots are almost all superficial.

This is yet worse on the Hills, whose Descent is too steep; for besides the same Inconveniencies, the falling down of the Earth draws with it the good Soil, and insensibly lays the Roots bare.

One may therefore conclude that all these Nurseries are a long time before they bear, that they are never fruitful, and that they are destroy'd in a little time.

It is also proper that a Nursery, as much as may be, should be surrounded with standing Wood; but if it is open on any side, it should be remedy'd as soon as possible, by a Border of several Ranks of Trees called _Bananes_[5].

Besides this, the Nurseries should be moderate in respect of Magnitude, for the Small have not Air enough, and are, as it were, stifled; and the very Large are too liable to Dryness, and to the great Winds, which, in _America_, they call _Ouragans_[u].

The Place of the Nursery being chosen, and the Bigness determined, they apply themselves to clear it of the Wood. They begin with plucking up the little Plants, and by cutting the Shrubs, and small kinds of Trees, and felling the Trunks and larger Branches of others; they then make Piles, and set them on fire in all Parts, and so burn down the largest Trees of all, to save themselves the trouble of cutting them.

When all is burnt, and there remains nothing upon the Earth, but the Trunks of the great Trees which they don't trouble themselves to consume, and when the Space is well cleaned, they make Alleys by the help of a Line, strait and at equal Distances from each other, and thrust Sticks into the Ground of two or three Foot long, and 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 Feet distant, or at such a distance that they design to plant the _Cocao-Trees_, which they represent. Afterwards they plant _Manioc_ in the empty Spaces, taking care not to come too near the Sticks.

One may observe, that the Nurseries planted at the great Distances of eight or ten Feet, are a great deal more troublesome to keep clean in the first Years, as we shall observe hereafter; but then they prosper a great deal better, bear more, and last longer.

The Inhabitants, who have a great deal to do, and have but few Slaves, plant the Trees nearer, because by this means they gain room, and they have less trouble to keep it clear; when afterwards the Trees come to hurt and annoy each other by their Proximity, and they have had some Crops to supply their present Necessities: or if otherwise, they are obliged to cut some to give Air to the rest.

On the Coast of _Caraqua_, they plant the _Cocao-Trees_ at 12 or 15 Feet distance, and they make Trenches to water them from time to time in the dry Seasons. They happily experienced the Success of this Practice at _Martinico_ some Years since.

The _Manioc_[6] is a woody Shrub, whose Roots being grated, and baked on the Fire, yield a _Cassave_, or Meal, which serves to make Bread for all the Natives of _America_. They plant it in the new Nurseries, not only because it is necessary to supply the _Negroes_ with Food, but also it hinders the Growth of Weeds, and serves to shade the young _Cocao-Trees_, whose tender Shoots, and even the second Leaves, are not able to resist the scorching Beams of the Sun. For this reason they wait till the _Manioc_ shades the Feet of the Sticks before they plant the _Cocao-Trees_, in the manner that we shall describe in the following Chapter.

FOOTNOTES:

[n] Relation of the River of the _Amazons_.

[o] I have added this Explication, because _Pomet_ makes it come from _Caraqua_, of the Province of _Nicaragua_ in _New Spain_, which is distant from _Caracas_ 5 or 600 Leagues. V. VII. Chap. xiv.

[p] Thomas Gage, _Tom. 1. Part 2. Chap. 19. Pag. 150._

[q] Rochefort's _Natural History of the _Antilloes_. Book 1. Chap. 6. Artic. 16._

[r] Father _Tertre_'s Hist. of the _Antilloes_. Tom. 2. p. 184.

[s] These are the Savage Natives of the _Antilloes_.

[t] That Part is call'd so, which lies exposed to the Winds which come always from the _North-East_ to the _South-East_. That Part under the Wind, is called _Basse-Terre_.

[5] See the fifth Remark at the End of the Treatise.

[u] These violent and outrageous Winds blow from all Points of the Compass in twenty-four Hours. And this is one material thing to distinguish them from the regular and common Winds of this Climate.

[6] See the Remark at the sixth Article.

CHAP. III.

Of the Method of Planting a Nursery, and to cultivate it till the Fruit comes to Maturity.

_Cocao-Trees_ are planted from the Kernel or Seed, for the Nature of the Wood will not admit of Slips: They open a _Cocao-Shell_, and according as they have occasion, take out the Kernels, and plant them one by one, beginning, for example, at the first Stick: They pluck it up, and with a sort of a Setting-Stick made of Iron, and well sharpened, they make a Hole, and turning the Iron about, cut off the little Roots that may do hurt. They plant the Kernel three or four Inches deep, and thrust in the Stick they before had pluck'd up a little on one side, to serve as a Mark: and so they proceed from Stick to Stick, and from Rank to Rank, till they have gone through the whole Nursery.

It must be observed, 1. _Not to plant in a dry Season._ One may indeed plant in any Month of the Year, or any Moon, new or old, when the Season is cool, and the Place ready; but it is commonly believed, that planting from _September_ to _Christmas_, the Trees bear more than in some Months.

2. _Not to plant any but the largest Kernels, and such as are plump_: For since in the finest Shells there are sometimes withered Kernels, it would be very imprudent to make use of them.

3. _To plant the great Ends of the Kernels lowermost._ This is that which is held by a little Thread to the Center of the Shell, when one takes the Kernel out. If the little End was placed downward, the Foot of the Tree would become crooked, neither would it prosper; and if it was placed sideways, the Foot would not succeed very well.

4. _To put two or three Kernels at every Stick_, that if by any Mischance the tender Shoots of one or two are broken by Insects, or otherwise, there may be one left to supply the Defect. If no bad Accident happen, you have the advantage of chusing the straitest and most likely Shoot. But it is not best to cut up the supernumerary ones till that which is chosen is grown up, and, according to all appearance, out of danger.

The Kernels come up in ten or twelve Days, more or less, according as the Season, more or less favourable, hastens or backens their Growth: The longish Grain of the Germ beginning to swell, sends forth the little Root downwards, which afterwards becomes the chief Stay of the Tree, and upwards it pushes out the Shoot, which is an Epitomy of the Trunk and the Branches. These Parts encreasing, and discovering themselves more and more, the two Lobes of the Kernel a little separated and bent back, appear first out of the Earth, and regain their natural Position, in proportion as the Shoot rises, and then separate themselves intirely, and become two Leaves of a different Shape, of an obscure Green, thick, unequal, and, as it were, shrivel'd up, and make what they call the _Ears_ of the Plant. The Shoot appears at the same time, and is divided into two tender Leaves of bright Green: To these two first Leaves, opposite to each other, succeed two more, and to these a third Pair. The Stalk or Trunk rises in proportion, and thence forward during a Year, or thereabouts.

The whole Cultivation of the _Cocao-Tree_ may then be reduced to the Practice of two Things.

_First_, To over-look them during the first fifteen Days; that is to say, to plant new Kernels in the room of those that do not come up, or whose Shoots have been destroy'd by Insects, which very often make dreadful Havock among these Plants, even when one would think they are out of danger. Some Inhabitants make Nurseries a-part, and transplant them to the Places where they are wanting: but as they do not all grow, especially when they are a little too big, or the Season not favourable, and because the greatest part of those that do grow languish a long time, it always seem'd to me more proper to set fresh Kernels; and I am persuaded, if the Consequences are duly weighed, it will be practised for the future.

_Secondly_, Not to let any Weeds grow in the Nursery, but to cleanse it carefully from one end to the other, and taking care, above all things, not to let any Herb or Weed grow up to Seed; for if it should happen so but once, it will be very difficult thenceforwards to root those troublesome Guests out, and to keep the Nursery clean, because the Cold in this Country never interrupts Vegetation.

This Weeding should be continued till the Trees are become large, and their Branches spreading, cast such a Shade as to hinder the Weeds from coming up; and afterwards, the Leaves falling from the Trees, and covering the Earth, will contribute to stifle them intirely. When this troublesome Business of Weeding is ended, it will be sufficient to overlook them once a Month, and pluck up here and there those few Weeds that remain, and to carry them far into the Woods for fear of Seeds.

When the _Cocao-Trees_ are nine Months old, the _Manioc_ should then begin to be pluck'd up; and it should be managed so, that in three Months time there should be none left. There may be a Row or two replanted in each Alley, and Cucumbers, Citruls, and [x]_Giraumonts_ may be sow'd in the void Spaces, or _Caribean_ Coleworts; because these Plants having great spreading Leaves, are very proper to keep the Earth cool and moist, and to stifle the noisome Weeds. When the _Cocao-Trees_ come to shade the Ground entirely, then it will be necessary to pluck up every thing, for nothing then will grow beneath 'em.

The _Cocao-Trees_ of one Year old have commonly a Trunk of four Feet high, and begin to spread, by sending out five Branches at the top, all at a time, which forms that which they call the _Crown_ of a _Cocao-Tree_. It seldom happens that any of these five Branches are wanting, and if by any Accident, or contrary to the Order of Nature, it has but three or four, the Tree never comes to good, and it will be better to cut it off, and wait for a new Crown, which will not be long before it is form'd.

If at the end of the Year the _Manioc_ is not plucked up, they will make the Trees be more slow in bearing; and their Trunks running up too high, will be weak, slender, and more exposed to the Winds. If they should be crowned, their Crowns will be too close; and the chief Branches not opening themselves enough, the Trees will never be sufficiently disengaged, and will not spread so much as they ought to do.

When all the Trunks are crowned, they chuse the finest Shoots, and cut up the supernumerary ones without mercy; for if this is not done out of hand, it will be difficult to persuade one's self afterwards: tho it is not possible but that Trees placed so near each other, should be hurtful to each other in the end.

The Trees are no sooner crown'd, but they send forth, from time to time, an Inch or two above the Crown, new Shoots, which they call Suckers: If Nature was permitted to play her part, these Suckers would soon produce a second Crown, that again new Suckers, which will produce a third, _&c._ Thus the _Cocao-Trees_ proceed, that are wild and uncultivated, which are found in the Woods of _Cape-Sterre_ in _Martinico_. But seeing all these Crowns do but hinder the Growth of the first, and almost bring it to nothing, tho it is the principal; and that the Tree, if left to itself, runs up too high, and becomes too slender; they should take care every Month when they go to weed it, or gather the Fruit, to prune it; that is to say, to cut or lop off all the Suckers.

I don't know whether they have yet thought it proper to prune, any more than to graft upon _Cocao-Trees_: There is however a sort of Pruning which, in my Opinion, would be very advantageous to it. These sort of Trees, for example, have always (some more than others) dead Branches upon them, chiefly upon the Extremities of the Boughs; and there is no room to doubt but it would be very proper to lop off these useless Branches, paring them off with the pruning Knife even to the Quick. But as the Advantage that will accrue from it will neither be so immediate, nor so apparent as the Time and Pains that is employ'd in it; it is very probable that this Care will be neglected, and that it will be esteem'd as Labour lost. But however, the _Spaniards_ do not think so; for, on the contrary, they are very careful to cut off all the dead Sprigs: for which reason their Trees are more flourishing than ours, and yield much finer Fruit. I believe they have not the same care in grafting them, nor do I think any Person has hitherto attempted to do it: I am persuaded nevertheless, that the _Cocao-Trees_ would be better for it. Is it not by the assistance of grafting our Fruit Trees in several manners, (which were originally wild, and found by chance in the Woods) that they have at length found the Art of making them bear such excellent Fruit?

In proportion as the _Cocao-Trees_ grow, the Leaves upon the Trunks fall off by little and little, which ought to fall off on their own accord; for when they are entirely bare, they have not long to flourish: The first Blossoms commonly fall off, and the ripe Fruit is not to be expected in less time than three Years, and that if it be in a good Soil. The fourth Year the Crop is moderate, and the fifth it is as great as ever it will be; for then the Trees commonly bear all the Year about, and have Blossoms and Fruit of all Ages. Some Months indeed there is almost none, and others, they are loaded; and towards the Solstices, that is, in _June_ and _December_, they bear most.

As in the Tempests called _Ouragans_ the Wind blows from all Points of the Compass in twenty-four Hours, it will be well if it does not break in at the weakest Place of the Nursery, and do a great deal of Mischief, which it is necessary to remedy with all possible expedition. If the Wind has only overturn'd the Trees without breaking the chief Root, then the best Method that can be taken in good Soil, is to raise them up again, and put them in their Places, propping them up with a Fork, and putting in the Earth about it very carefully: By this means they will be re-establish'd in less than six Months, and they will bear again as if no harm had come to them. In bad Soil, it will be better to let them lie, putting the Earth about the Roots, and cultivate at their lower Parts, or Feet, the best grown Sucker, and that which is nearest the Roots, cutting off carefully all the rest: The Tree in this Condition will not give over blossoming and bearing Fruit; and when in two Years time the Sucker is become a new Tree, the old Tree must be cut off half a Foot distant from the Sucker.

FOOTNOTES:

[x] These are Citruls whose Pulp is very yellow.

CHAP IV.

Of the gathering of the _Cocao-Nuts_, and the Manner of making them sweat, and of drying them that they may be brought sound into _Europe_.

The Observations which we made in the first Chapter, concerning the Alterations of the Colour of the Nuts, give us information of the time that they become ripe. It will be proper to gather them when all the Shell has changed Colour, and when there is but a small Spot below which shall remain green. They go from Tree to Tree, and from Row to Row, and with forked Sticks or Poles, they cause the ripe Nuts to fall down, taking great care not to touch those that are not so, as well as the Blossoms: They employ the most handy _Negroes_ in this Work, and others follow them with Baskets to gather them, and lay them in Heaps, where they remain four Days without being touch'd.

In the Months that they bear most, they gather them for a Fortnight together; in the less-fruitful Seasons, they only gather them from Month to Month. If the Kernels were left in Shells more than four Days, they would sprit, or begin to grow, and be quite spoiled[y]: It is therefore necessary to shell them on the fifth Day in the Morning at farthest. To do this, they strike on the middle of the Shells with a Bit of Wood to cleave them, and then pull them open with their Fingers, and take out the Kernels, which they put in Baskets, casting the empty Shells upon the Ground, that they may with the Leaves, being putrified, serve to fatten the Earth, and supply the Place of Dung.

They afterwards carry all the Kernels into a House, and lay them on a heap upon a kind of loose Floor cover'd with Leaves of _Balize_[7], which are about four Feet long, and twenty Inches broad; then they surround it with Planks cover'd with the same Leaves, making a kind of Granary, which may contain the whole Pile of Kernels, when spread abroad. They cover the whole with the like Leaves, and lay some Planks over all: the Kernels thus laid on a heap, and cover'd close on all sides, do not fail to grow warm, by the Fermentation of their insensible Particles; and this is what they call _Sweating_, in those Parts.

They uncover the Kernels Morning and Evening, and send the _Negroes_ among them; who with their Feet and Hands, turn them topsy turvy, and then cover them up as before, with the same Leaves and the same Planks. They continue to do this for five Days, at the end of which they have commonly sweat enough, which is discover'd by their Colour, which grows a great deal deeper, and very ruddy.

The more the Kernels sweat, the more they lose their Weight and Bitterness: but if they have not sweat enough, they are more bitter, and smell sour, and sometimes sprit. To succeed well therefore, there should be a certain Medium observed, which is only to be learnt by use.

When the Kernels have sweat enough, they lay them out to air, and expose them to the Sun to dry them, in the manner following.

They prepare before-hand, several Benches about two Foot high, in an even Court appointed for that purpose; they lay upon these Benches several Mats made of pieces of Reeds split in two, together with Bands made of _Mahot_ Bark[8]. Upon these Mats they put the Kernels about two Inches in height and move and turn them very often with a proper Piece of Wood for the first two Days. At Night they wrap up the Kernels in the Mats, which they cover with _Balize_ Leaves for fear of Rain, and they do the same in the day-time when it is likely to rain. Those who are afraid of having them stolen, lock them up.

There are some Inhabitants who keep Boxes about five Feet long, and two broad, and three or four Inches deep, on purpose to dry the Kernels: There is this Advantage in them, that in the greatest Rains and suddenest Showers, they may presently be piled one on the top of another, so that none but the top-most will want a Cover; which is soon done with the aforesaid Leaves, and an empty Box turn'd up-side down. But that which makes the Usage of Mats preferable, is, that the Air may pass through beneath, between the Partition of the Reeds, and so dry the Kernels better. Boxes whose Bottoms are made like a Sieve with strong Brass Wire, would be very excellent; but then they must be made in _Europe_, which would be a considerable Charge.

When the Kernels have sweat enough, they must be exposed upon the Mats as much as necessary: If Rain is foreseen that is likely to last, it will be best to let them sweat half a Day less. It is observable, that a few hours Rain at first, instead of doing any harm, makes them more beautiful, and better conditioned. In fair Weather, instead of this Rain, it will be proper to expose them to the Dew for the first Nights. The Rain of a whole Day or two will do no harm, if they are not covered before they have had the Benefit of the Sun, for a Day, or half a Day at least. For after a Day's Sun-shine, they are to be wrap'd in the Mat, as before directed; but if it be half a Day's Rain only, then they are only covered with _Balize_ Leaves in the Night, kept on with little Stones laid at each End: But if the Rain be too long, it makes them split, and then they will not keep long; they therefore make Chocolate of it immediately.

If the Kernels have not sweat enough, or they wrap them too soon in the Mat, they are subject to sprit or germe, which makes them bitter, and good for nothing.

When the Kernels have been once wrapped in a Mat, and begun to dry, care must be taken that they do not grow moist again; they must therefore be well stirr'd from time to time, that they may be thorowly dry'd, which you may know by taking a Handful in your Hand, and shutting it: if it cracks, then it is time to put them into your Store-house, and to expose them to sale.

Those who would gain a Reputation in giving out a good Merchandize, before they pack it up in Vessels, pick it, and throw aside the little, wither'd, and thin Kernels, which are not only unsightly, but render the Chocolate something worse.

Afterwards the Kernels of the _Cocao-Nut_ are dried in the Sun, before they are brought to _Europe_, and sold by the Druggists and Grocers, who distinguish it into great and small, and into that of _Caraqua_, and that of the _French_ Islands, tho with no good Foundation, for in the Places themselves they make no mention of this Distinction: It therefore seems likely, that the Merchants find their account in sorting it, since Kernels proceeding from the same Tree, and from the same Nut, are not always of the same bigness. It is indeed true, that if one Parcel of Kernels be compared with another, the one may consist of bigger than the other, which may arise from the Age or Vigour of the Trees, or from the Nature of the Soil; but certainly there is no kind of Kernels which may be called Great, as a distinct Kind, nor consequently no other which can properly be said to be Small.

The Kernels that come to us from the Coast of _Caraqua_, are more oily, and less bitter, than those that come from the _French_ Islands, and in _France_ and _Spain_ they prefer them to these latter: But in _Germany_, and in the North (_Fides sit penes Autorem_) they have a quite opposite Taste. Several People mix that of _Caraqua_ with that of the Islands, half in half, and pretend by this Mixture to make the Chocolate better. I believe in the bottom, the difference of Chocolates is not considerable, since they are only obliged to encrease or diminish the Proportion of Sugar, according as the Bitterness of the Kernels require it. For it must be considered, as we have already said, that there is but one kind of _Cocao-Tree_, which grows as naturally in the Woods of _Martinico_, as in those of the Coast of _Caraqua_, that the Climates are almost the same, and consequently the Temperature of the Seasons equal, and therefore there cannot be any intrinsick Difference between these Fruits of any great moment.

As to the outward Difference that is observed, it can arise from nothing but the Richness of the Soil, or the contrary; from the different Culture, and from the Care or Negligence of the Labourers and those that prepare it, from the time of its gathering, to the time of its Delivery, and perhaps from all three together. It is to be observed at _Martinico_, that the _Cocao-Trees_ prosper better in some Parts than others, merely from the Difference of the Soil, being more or less rich, or more or less moist.

I have had the Experience of one of my Friends, concerning what relates to the Cultivation and Preparation of this Tree and its Fruit, which demonstrates that they may add to its Value. This Gentleman, with a great deal of Application and Thought, found out the way to prepare the finest Merchandize of the Island, which was prefer'd by the Merchants to all the rest, and bore a greater Price than that of any of his Neighbours.

The Kernels of _Caraqua_ are flattish, and for Bulk and Figure not unlike our large Beans. Those of _St. Domingo_, _Jamaica_, and _Cuba_, are generally larger than those of the _Antilloes_. The more bulky the Kernels are, and better they have been nourished, the less Waste there is after they have been roasted and cleansed, which some Years ago was an Advantage to those of _Caraqua_. But at present, by the Regulation from the Month of _April_, 1717, the Kernels of our Colonies pay but Two-pence Duty for Entry, whereas Foreigners pay always Fifteen: These thirteen Pence difference make such ample amends for the small Waste, that there is a great deal of reason to hope, that for the time to come, there will be none but the Curious, and People that do not value the Expence, that will make use of the Chocolate of _Caraqua_, by way of preference to that of the _French_ Islands, and that the Cheapness of the latter will double the Consumption at least.

The best _Cocao-Nuts_ have very brown firm Shells, and when the Kernel is taken out, it ought to be plump, well nourish'd, and sleek; of the Colour of a Hazle-Nut on the outside, but more inclining to a Red within; its Taste a little bitter and astringent, not at all sour or mouldy[z]. In a word, without any Smell, and not worm-eaten.

The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is the most oily that Nature has produced, and it has this admirable Prerogative, never to grow rank let it be ever so old, which all other Fruit do that are analogous to it in Qualities; such as _Nuts_, _Almonds_, _Pine-Apple-Kernels_, _Pistachoe Nuts_, _Olives_, &c.

There are also imported from _America_, _Cocao-Kernel-Cakes_ of about a Pound weight each; and as this Preparation is the first and principal in the Composition of Chocolate, it will be proper to add here the Manner of making it.

The _Indians_, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in doing it; they roast the Kernels in earthen Pots, then free them from their Skins, and afterwards crush and grind them between two Stones, and so form Cakes of it with their Hands.

The _Spaniards_, more industrious than the _Savages_, and at this day other Nations after their Example, chuse out the best Kernels[a], and the most fresh: Of these they put about two Pounds in a great Iron Shovel over a clear Fire, stirring them continually with a large _Spatula_, so long that they may be roasted enough to have their Skins come off easily, which should be done one by one[b], laying them a-part; and taking great heed that the rotten and mouldy Kernels be thrown away, and all that comes off the good ones; for these Skins being left among the Chocolate, will not dissolve in any Liquor, nor even in the Stomach, and fall to the bottom of Chocolate-Cups, as if the Kernels had not been cleansed.

If one was curious to weigh the Kernels at the Druggists, and then weigh them again after they are roasted and cleansed, one should find that there would be about a sixth Part wasted, more or less, according to the Nature and Qualities of the Kernels; that is to say, if you bought (for example) 30 Pounds, there would remain entirely cleansed, near twenty-five.

All the Kernels being thus roasted and cleansed at divers times, they put them once more to roast in the same Iron Shovel, but over a more gentle Fire, and stir them with the _Spatula_ without ceasing till they are roasted all alike, and as much as they ought to be; which one may discover by their Taste, and their dark-brown Colour, without being black. The whole Art consists in avoiding the two Extremes, of not roasting them enough, and roasting them too much; that is to say, till they are burnt. If they are not roasted enough, they retain a disagreeable Harshness of Taste; and if they are roasted so much as to burn them, besides the Bitterness and ill Taste that they contract, they lose their Oilyness entirely, and the best part of their good Qualities.

In _France_, where they are very apt to run into Extremes, they are mighty fond of the burnt Taste, and the black Colour, as if they were proper Marks of good Chocolate, not considering that, Quantity for Quantity, they may as well put so much Charcoal as burnt Chocolate. This Opinion is not only agreeable to Reason and good Sense, but is also confirmed by the unanimous Consent of all that have written on this Subject; and I can affirm, that it is authorized by the universal Consent of all _America_.

When the Kernels are duly roasted, and well cleansed, they put them into a large Mortar to reduce them into a gross Powder, which they afterwards grind upon a Stone till it is very fine, which requires a more particular Explication.

They make choice of a Stone which naturally resists the Fire, not so soft as to rub away easily, nor so hard as to endure polishing. They cut it from 16 to 18 Inches broad, and about 27 or 30 long, and 3 in thickness, and hollowed in the middle about an Inch and a half deep. This Stone should be fix'd upon a Frame of Wood or Iron, a little higher on one side than the other: Under, they place a Pan of Coals to heat the Stone, so that the Heat melting the oily Parts of the Kernels, and reducing it to the Consistence of Honey, makes it easy for the Iron Roller, which they make use of for the sake of its Strength, to make it so fine as to leave neither Lump, nor the least Hardness. This Roller is a Cylinder of polish'd Iron, two Inches in diameter, and about eighteen long, having at each End a wooden Handle of the same Thickness, and six Inches long, for the Workman to hold by.

When the Paste is ground as much as is thought necessary, they put it hot in Moulds made of Tin, where they leave it, and it becomes hard in a very little time. The Shape of these Moulds is arbitrary, and every one may have them made according to his Fancy; but the cylindrick ones, which will hold about 2 or 3 Pounds of Chocolate, seem to me to be most proper; because the thicker they are, the longer they keep good, and may be commodiously held when there is occasion to scrape them. These Rolls ought to be wrapped in Paper, and kept in a dry Place: it should also be observed, that they are very susceptible of good and ill Smells, and that it is good to keep them 5 or 6 Months before they are used.

Now the Kernels being sufficiently rubb'd and ground upon the Stone, as we have just directed, if you would compleat the Composition in the Mass, there is nothing more to be done, than to add to this Paste a Powder sifted thro a fine Searce, composed of Sugar, Cinnamon, and, if it be desired, of _Vanilla_[c], according to the Quantities and Proportions, which we shall teach in the Third Part of this Treatise; and mix it well upon the Stone, the better to blend it and incorporate it together, and then to fashion it in Moulds made of Tin in the form of Lozenges of about 4 Ounces each, or if desired, half a Pound.

FOOTNOTES:

[y] For this reason, when they would send _Cocao-Nuts_ to the neighbouring Islands from _Martinico_, that they may have wherewithal to plant, they are very careful not to gather them till the Transport Vessel is ready to sail, and to make use of them as soon as they arrive. For this reason also it is not possible that the Spaniards, when they design to preserve Nuts for planting, should let them be wither'd and perfectly dry, and that afterwards they should take the Kernels of these same Nuts, and dry them very carefully in the Shade, and after all, raise a Nursery with them, as _Oexmelin_ reports, _History of Adventurers_, Tom. 1. Pag. 424.

[7] See the seventh Note hereafter.

[8] The _Mahot_ is a Shrub, whose Leaves are round and feel soft like those of _Guimauve_; its Bark easily comes off, which they divide into long Slangs, which serves for Packthread and Cords to the Inhabitants and Natives.

[z] It gets this Taste either by being laid in a moist Place, or by being wet by Sea-Water in the Passage.

[a] As the Kernels are never so clean, but there may be Stones, Earth, and bad ones among them; it will be necessary, before they are used, to sift them in a Sieve that will let these things pass through, while it retains the Kernels.

[b] The Artists, to make this Work more expeditious, and to gain time, put a thick Mat upon a Table, and spread the Kernels upon it as they come hot from the Shovel, and roll a Roller of Iron over them to crack and get off the Skins of the Kernels; afterward they winnow all in a splinter Sieve, till the Kernels become entirely cleansed.

[c] What this is, you will find hereafter.

THE Natural HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE.