Chapter IX (2)

MEMNONIUM.--The term Memnonium is used by Strabo to designate that part of ancient Thebes which lies on the western side of the river. The French _savans_, however, without sufficient reason, have restricted it to the magnificent ruin which we are going to describe. This beautiful relic of antiquity looks to the east, and is fronted by a stupendous propylon, of which two hundred and thirty-four feet in length are still remaining. The propylon stands on the edge of the soil; but the area cultivable, or space for the dromos behind it, is floored by the solid rock, on which the rest of the temple is erected. The eastern wall is much fallen down, and both ends are greatly dilapidated. Every stone in the propylon appears to have been shaken and loosened in its place, as if from the concussion of an earthquake, for no human violence seems adequate to produce such an effect in such an immense mass of building as that under consideration. A stair enters from each end, by which to ascend to the top of the propylon, from which passages go off in a number of chambers, as in the temples of Phylæ Edifore, &c.

This colossus measures six feet ten inches over the foot, and sixty-two or sixty-three feet round the shoulders. It has been broken off at the waist, and the upper part is laid prostrate on the back; the face is entirely obliterated, and, next to the wonder excited at the boldness of the sculptor who made it, and the extraordinary powers of those who erected it, the labour and exertions that must have been used for its destruction, are most astonishing. It could only have been brought about with the help of military engines, and must then have been the work of time. Its fall has carried along with it the whole of the wall of the temple which stood within its reach. It was not without great difficulty and danger that we could climb on its shoulder and neck, and in going from thence upon its chest, assisted by Arab servants.

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DENDERA.--The centuries that this great temple of Venus has seen have scarcely affected it in any important part; and have given it no greater appearance of age and ruin than what serves to render it more venerable and imposing. After seeing innumerable monuments of the same kind throughout the Thebaid, it seemed as if we were now arrived at the highest pitch of architectural excellence that was ever attained on the borders of the Nile. Here we found concentrated the united labour of ages, and the last effort of human art and industry in that regular uniform line of construction, which had been adopted in the earliest times. After admiring the general effect of the whole mass, its elegance, solidity, correct proportions and graceful outlines, it was difficult to decide what particular objects were to be first examined. Whether its sculptures or paintings, typical and ornamental, the distribution of the interior apartments, the details of the capitals and columns, the mystical meaning of particular representations here seen for the first time; the zodiacs,[14] or the other celestial phenomena, sculptured on the ceilings, all seemed objects of high interest and importance, all invited a nearer and closer inspection. The portico consists of twenty-four columns in three rows, each above twenty-two feet in circumference, thirty-two high, and covered with hieroglyphics. The peculiar form of the square capital, with a front face of the goddess on each side, particularly attracted our attention. We were at first struck by the singularity of an idea so foreign to the common notions of Greek architecture; but the eye is soon reconciled to it; and the solemn and mild monotony of these faces impresses the spectator with a silent, reverential awe, a willing conviction of the immediate presence of the deity of the place in her most gracious character; and, indeed, the Greeks, in their Caryatides, seem in some degree to have added their sanction to the principle.

[Footnote 14: The principal zodiac has since been removed.]

The sekos, or the interior of the temple, consists of several apartments, all the walls and ceilings of which are in the same way covered with religious and astronomical representations. The roofs are, like the rest in Egypt, flat; the oblong masses of stone resting on the side walls; and, when the distance of these is too great, one or two rows of the columns are carried down the middle of the apartment, by which the roof is supported. The capitals of these columns are very richly ornamented with the budding lotus, the stalks of which being carried down some way below the capital, give the shaft the appearance of being fluted, or rather scolloped.

The following, gleaned from other sources, will, perhaps, be also acceptable as a guide to the sight-seer.

No person ought to leave Egypt without visiting Assowan and Philoe, particularly if he go up as high as Thebes; for he can form no correct judgment of Egypt and her wonderful and gigantic works, unless he sees the temples and shrubberies at Esireh Fdjou, Koon, Ombes, Assowan, and Philoe, as well as those in the Thebaid and at Tentyra. By traversing Egypt from Alexandria to Assowan, you can with ease inspect all those wonderful remains of labour and art, unequalled in the world for extent or size as architectural works, and which, to the mind of the observer, place beyond doubt the wealth, the power, the science, and great population of ancient Egypt. To attempt to convey to a person who has not seen structures of the kind, any idea of what these ruins are, is out of the question. In the granite quarries at Assowan, from whence these immense monuments were taken, are two unfinished sarcophagi and an obelisk cut and formed, but still attached to the native rock. The obelisk is shaped out and cut round on all sides except its under one, a bed which still attaches it to the rock. It measures 76 feet in length, and 12 feet broad, and in depth to the drift-sand in which it has imbedded itself 6 feet thick. The marks of the workman's chisel and wedge, with which instruments, it appears, these immense masses have been disjoined from the native rock, are as fresh as if they had been applied but yesterday. It is inconceivable how such entire masses could have been taken from their bed to the Nile, a distance of at least a mile and a half, and from thence transported to where we see them still standing, seventy, eighty, and ninety feet in height, and eight, ten and twelve feet square at the base, as at Luxor, Karnak, Helipolis, Frorun, and at Alexandria, covered with deeply engraved figures and hieroglyphics, in some places still bearing a glossy and fresh polish. In the island of Philoe there are some beautiful and extensive remains of Egyptian, as also one of Grecian, architecture. Leaving Luxor in the night of the third of May, we arrived at Khenneh the following day, and, after visiting the temple of Hentyra or of Isis, on the opposite bank of the Nile, and remaining an hour or two at Khenneh, we left that place for Cairo, where we arrived on the sixteenth of the same month.

Passing through the palm-tree grove which covers the high ridge, or mound, formed by the ruins of the ancient Memphis, the traveller approaches a small open circular plain, which is supposed to have been the Archerusian Lake of the city; on the south side of this, the large colossal statue of Sesostris is to be seen. It was discovered and laid open by Mr. Sloane and M. Coriglier, and is the most perfect statue in Egypt, and the most beautifully formed. It lies with its face downwards. It is broken off below the ankle, and the entire length of the block now remaining is thirty-six feet six inches. The ruins of the edifice before which it had stood are apparent under the rubbish which surrounds the place. The ancient Necropolis of Paccachia, or, as some writers suppose, of the city of Memphis, extends for miles round the pyramids. Indeed, from the pyramids of Dashores to those of Cheops and Copprieves, is one continued burying-ground. The pyramids of Dashores, as well as those of Saccachara, and the excavations and tombs in the rocks, may be inspected in one day. We landed at Goza, and took donkeys, and passed the day in visiting the large pyramids. The following morning we passed the island of Rhode, visited the Nilometer, and, after sailing down about half a mile, and passing the aqueducts of Lubuddia, about one-hundred yards, landed again on the island, and entered the gardens of Ibrahim Pacha.

Another writer gives the following outline of the interesting sights to be seen on the Nile.

On the eastern bank, eight miles to the south of Cairo, quarries of Maasara, from which the stone used for part of the casing of the pyramids was taken. Some hieroglyphic tablets, in one of which oxen are represented drawing a stone placed on a sledge. A little beyond the modern village is an inclined road, which leads from the quarries to the river. Thirty miles further to the south, on the same bank, is Atfëeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, no ruins. False pyramid on opposite bank, three miles beyond El Feshu, and on eastern bank, remains of crude brick, the walls of an ancient village, called El Héebee and some hieroglyphics.

From Beuisooef is the road to the Fyoom, which, when the Nile is low, may be visited conveniently. A brick pyramid at Illahoon, another at El Howâra, and vestiges of the labyrinth, obelisk at Biggig, ruins on and near the lake Moeris, and at Qasr Kharoon. From Aboogirgeh is the shortest road to Bahnasa (Oxyriuchus) mounds, no ruins, Gebel é Tayr, north-end, grotto or rock temple, called Babyn, convent further to the south; eight miles below Minyeh is Tehneh (Acoris) on eastern bank, a Greek Ptolemaic inscription on the face of the cliff, tombs hewn in the rock, with small inscriptions at the doors, Roman figures in high relief, on the upper part of the rock, some hieroglyphic tablets, quarries on the top of the mountain, a tank, &c.

Same (eastern bank) seven miles above Minyeh, Komahmar, some grottoes, and ruins of an old town; nine miles farther (eastern hank), Beni Hassan, very fine grottoes, with curious paintings; and about a mile and a half farther, a grotto, or rock temple, of Pasht (Bubastis, or Diana), the Speos Artemidos, cat mummies in the ravine.

Antinöe, now Shekh Abadeh, few remains of the town, a theatre, the principal streets, baths, &c., outside the town, on the east, is the hippodrome. The grottoes in the mountain are unsculptured, and have some Christian inscriptions. A little to the north of Antinöe are the remains, apparently, of Besa, scarcely worthy of a visit.

At El Bersheh, a grotto on the mountain, in which a colossus is represented on a sledge. At Oshmoonayn (western bank) no remains of Hermopolis Magna. At Gebel Toona, a mountain, skirting the desert to the west are mummy-pits, a tablet of hieroglyphics, and statues in high relief. At Mellawee, and at Tamoof Tanis, superior mounds, but no ruins. At Shayda, at corner of mountains, on eastern bank, crude brick walls, and some grottoes.

At Shekh Said, the mountains recede to the eastward, leaving the river, and a little beyond is the village of Tel el Armarnar, to the north of which are the remains of a small town, and to the south the ruins of a city, which I suppose to be Alabastron: all the stone buildings have been quite destroyed, but some of the brick houses remain; near the crude brick towers of the temple are the largest houses. To the east are several fine grottoes in the face of the mountain, with curious sculptures, and on the summit of it is an ancient alabaster quarry. Six miles below Maufaloot, at El Haryib, ruins of an old town, in a ravine of the Gebel Aboolfaydee; numerous dog and cat mummies, near El Maabdeh, opposite Maufaloot; crocodile mummies in chambers of great extent in the mountain.

At E'Sioot (Lycopolis), the capital of Upper Egypt, grottoes, wolf mummies; the modern cemetery is prettily laid out. Gow (Antoepolis) a few stones of the temple, close to the river; some grottoes at the corner of the mountain, to the north, below Gow, but not containing good sculptures. Shekh Hereedee, small grottoes; Roman statue at the base of the mountain, cut out of a piece of a rock. The snake of Shekh Hereedee is still supposed to perform cures.

To the west of Soohag, near the corner of mountains, old town of Athribes, a Greek inscription in the ruined temple, grottoes in the mountain; and to the north is the white monastery, or Dayr Amba Shuoodee, nearly opposite Soohag is E'Khmim (Panopolis) Greek inscription of the temple of Pan, and some remains of other stone buildings.

Mensheeh (Ptolemais Hermii), western bank, eight miles above E'Khmim, remains of a stone quay. From Girgh go to Abydos, three hours ride, and send on the boat to Bellianeh, returning to it in the evening, two hours ride; or, coming down the river, stop at Bellianeh, and send on the boat to Girgeh. At Abydos two temples and many tombs.

How (Diospolis parva) has very few remains of Ptolemaic or Roman time. In mounds at the ridge of the desert, a mile and a half south of How, some tombs; one of Dionysius, son of Ptolemy, has some sculpture.

Qasr e Syad (Chenoboscion), remains of a quay; about one mile beyond the eastern mouth of the canal of this village, are some very ancient grottoes, with kings' names. Dendera (Teutyris) opposite Qeneh, two temples, inscriptions, zodiac, &c. Qeneh is famous for its manufacture of porous jars; from it, roads lead to Kossayr on the Red Sea.

Qoft (Coptos), ruins of the old town, and of a temple, a Christian church, canals, &c.; at the village of El Qala, to the north, is a small Roman Egyptian temple.

Qoos (Apollinopolis parva), no more ruins left; at a well on the north of the town is a Ptolemaic monolith, with hieroglyphics, converted into a tank, and a few stone remains of early time in the plain to the west, near a Shekh's tomb. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern bank, Karnac and Lugsor; on the west, the tombs of the kings, private tombs, several temples, colossi of the plain, &c.

Erment (Hermonthis), west bank, temple and early Christian church. Tuot, or E`Selemeëh (Tuphium) on eastern bank, Ptolemy temple, much ruined, and concealed by the hovels of the peasant. Gebelaun, _i.e._, "the two hills," a small ancient town in ruins, and grottoes, not worthy of a visit. At Tofnees and Assfoon, mounds of ancient towns, no ruins.

Esneh (Latopolis), fine portico, zodiac and quay. At Edayr, three miles to the north of Esneh, remains of a small temple of the Ptolemies and Cæsars, lately destroyed. Thirteen miles from Esneh, near El Qenan, ruins of a quay; on west bank and three miles farther, a small stone pyramid, opposite the quay, is the junction of the limestone and sandstone. Four miles beyond, on eastern bank, is El Kab (Eilethyas), ruins of a very ancient town, the temples lately destroyed, curious grottoes in the mountain, and a short distance up the valley are three small temples. In the bed of the ravine are ponds encrusted with natron.

Edfoo (Apollinopolis magna) two temples. Eleven miles above Edfoo, and on the eastern bank, remains of an old town, on face of hill, fortified with towers of Arab construction. Silsilis (now Hagar Silsili), quarries of sandstone, used for building the temples of Upper Egypt, tables and grottoes. Komombo (Ombos), two temples; ancient stone gateway, in a crude brickwall on the eastern side of the enclosure of the temples; houses burnt.

At E'Sooan (Syene), ruins of a small temple of Roman date, some columns, Saracen wall, and Cufic tombstones; granite quarries, in one of which is a broken obelisk; Latin inscription of Caracalla near another quarry; road to Philæ, and wall; numerous hieroglyphic tables on the rocks. Island of Elephantine; opposite the projecting rocks of E'Sooan is the Nilometer, which is a staircase, with Greek inscriptions relating to the rise of the Nile. Granite gateway, bearing the name of Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great.

At the northern end of the cataract, in the island of Sehàyl, few vestiges of a temple; hieroglyphic tablets on the rocks. Go from E'Sooan to Sehàyl in a boat, and ride to Philæ. At Philæ, temples and ruins. Islands of Biggeh, opposite Philæ, to the west, ruined temple, tablets, &c., &c.

NUBIA.

Dabode (Parembole), temple, west bank. Kerdassy, ruins and quarries. Tafa (Taphis), two small ruins, and stone enclosures. Kalabshee (Talmis), large temple, quarries, and, on hill behind it, to the northward, a small, but interesting temple, called Bayt el Wellee, cut in the rock. Dandoor, temple. Gerf Hossayn (Tutzis), temple, cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II.

Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple of Ptolemaic and Roman date; It has also the names of two Ethiopian princes, Ergamun, or Ergamenes (mentioned by Diodorus, iii. 6, as a contemporary of Ptolemy Philadelphus), and Ataramun; many Greek inscriptions. Opposite Dakkeh, ruins of Contra Pselcis, or of Metacompso.

Corte (Corti), few remains. Maharraka, or Oofideena, ruins of Hierasycamenon, style bad, and all of late date. Isis is represented under the fig-tree. Taboaa, temple of the time of Rameses II., with avenue of sphinxes; the adytum is cut in the rock, the rest built. Hassain, or Amada, a temple of Thothmes, ancient, nearly opposite to it in Dayr or Derr, on east bank, the capital of Nubia, which has a temple cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II.

Ibreem (Primis parva), part of the ancient wall on south side of town; remains of a stone building amidst the houses; some small grottoes below the town near the river. Aboosimbel, two temples cut in the rock, the finest Egyptian monuments out of Thebes; they are of the time of Rameses II.

At Ferayg, nearly opposite, on east bank, a small temple in the rock. Farras, on west bank, few remains; grottoes with Coptic inscriptions, some distance from the river. Wadee Alfeh, remains of three buildings on west bank; fine view of the second cataract from a rock on the same bank, a short walk to the south of Wadee Halfeh.

A day and a half beyond Wadee Halfeh are the two small temples of Samneh and the third cataract.

The distances from the Mediterranean to the second cataract are as follow:--

From Rosetta to Cairo about 110 miles.
Cairo Benisoef 83
Benisoef Minyeh 85
Minyeh E'Sivot 106
E'Sivot Girgeh 97
Girgeh Qeneh 79
Qeneh Thebes 49
Thebes Esneh 38
Esneh Esooan 100
Esooan Wadee Halfeh 219
----
Total from Rosetta to Wadee Halfeh 960 miles.
----

It may be interesting to the sportsman to know that, in the course of his river trip, he will occasionally find "food for powder." Game is by no means abundant, but here and there a random shot may be had at a gazelle; coveys of partridges _have_ been seen; rock-pigeons are numerous; and the rifle may afford some sport in the land of crocodiles.

The gazelle, ibex, _kebsh_ (or wild sheep), hare, fox, jackal, wolf, and hyæna, are still found in the valley of the Nile, or in the desert.

The "kebsh" frequents the eastern desert, principally in the ranges of primitive mountains, which, commencing about latitude 28° 40' at the back of the limestone hills of the valley of the Nile, extend thence into Ethiopia and Abyssinia.

The Egyptian hare is a native of the valley of the Nile, as well as the two deserts. It is remarkable for the length of its ears, which the Egyptians have not failed to indicate in their sculptures; but it is much smaller than those of Europe.

The intelligent Denon has made a just remark on the comparative size of animals common to Egypt and Europe, that the former are always smaller than our own species, and this is exemplified by none more strongly than the hare and wolf.

In enumerating the wild beasts of the desert, it may not be irrelevant to observe, that the hyæna and wolf are seldom met with in unfrequented districts, or any great distance from the Nile, where they would suffer from want of food, and are therefore principally confined to the mountains lying a few miles from the edge of the cultivated land. The wolf is very rarely seen on the coast of the Red Sea, and few even of the watering-places of the interior of the desert are infested by it, or the hyæna.

The hippopotamus was always rare in Lower Egypt, but in Upper Ethiopia this amphibious animal is common in the Nile.

The crocodile, formerly an inhabitant of Lower Egypt and the Delta, now limits the extent of its visits northward to the districts about Inanfaloot.