Chapter II: Introduction

In placing this little volume before the public, a few words, regarding the manner in which the incidents and material composing it were acquired, may be of interest to the reader.

The young gentleman who made the pedestrian trip, of which this forms the narrative, was a native of Massachusetts. I had missed him from his accustomed place for some time, but was ignorant of his contemplated journey, or even that he had gone away, until my attention was called to the following paragraph in the columns of the Boston Daily Advertiser of January 12, 1856, from its Chilian correspondent:--

“VALPARAISO, November 27, 1855.

“There arrived here, a few days since, a young man belonging to Medford, Mass., who has walked across the Pampas and Cordilleras, more than a thousand miles, unable to speak the language, and with an astonishingly small amount of money.

“So much for a Yankee.”

My friend was but seventeen years of age when he entered upon his difficult undertaking; but by dint of perseverance, backed by an enthusiastic love for nature, he accomplished a task that would have seemed insurmountable to many older and more experienced than himself. To use the language of Dr. Brewer, the able author of the Oölogy of North America, he was “a young and enthusiastic naturalist, whose zeal in the study of Natural History prompted him, alone, unaided, and at the risk of his life, to explore the arid plains of South America, while yet a mere lad in years and stature, though his observations there exhibit the close and careful study of maturer years.”

The young traveller started on his journey of upwards of twelve thousand miles, by sea and land, with a cash capital of forty-five dollars, and returned home with fifty; thus proving to those who wish to see the world that energy, industry, and economy are as potent to assist them in their efforts as unlimited wealth.

On his return, I requested him to furnish me with an account of his journey; this he has been unable to do, from press of business, until recently, when he gave me a copy of his journal, which, in a slightly revised form, is now published.

EDWARD A. SAMUELS.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PASSAGE OF THE RIVER PLATA.

Page

The Bark M.--First Glimpses of Life in the Forecastle.--An old
Salt, and forecastle Etiquette.--A self-constituted Guardian.--Another
old Salt, and how he spliced the Main-brace.--Farewell to
Boston.--The Passage.--The tropical Seas.--The Rocks of St.
Paul’s, and their Natural History.--First Visit of the Pampero.--The
“Doctor’s” poetical Effusions. 11

CHAPTER II.

IN THE RIVER PLATA.

We enter the River Plata.--Land.--Montevideo.--Another
Pampero.--Effects of the Hurricane.--Its Season.--We arrive at the
outer Roads at Buenos Ayres. 30

CHAPTER III.

BUENOS AYRES--THE PROVINCE AND CITY.

Letters from Home.--A Visit to the City.--Its Population.--Thistle
Forests.--Agricultural Resources.--Public Edifices of Buenos
Ayres.--Improvements.--Soil and Water.--Slavery and its History.--Don
D. F. Sarmiento.--Paper Currency.--General Rosas
and his cruel Tyranny. 35

CHAPTER IV.

VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL.

A new Acquaintance.--Preparations for a Journey.--The Departure.--The
Cochero and his Vehicle.--Residence of the late
President.--Agriculture.--Fuel.--San Fernando.--Mr. Hopkins and United
States and Paraguay Navigation Company.--Yerba.--We leave the
Tigre.--Arrival at the Banda Oriental.--Wild
Dogs.--Estancia.--Departure for the Las Vacas River.--A
Revelation.--An Ignis Fatuus.--Estancia House, and Cattle Farm.--The
Proprietor at Home.--Inhospitable Reception.--The Peons.--Insulting
Treatment.--An Irishman and his Opinions.--We reach the River.--Gold
Prospects.--We return to the Tigre.--My Companion’s Fate. 49

CHAPTER V.

ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANÁ.

Rosario.--Departure from the Tigre.--A Dialogue.--I visit the M.--The
Irish Barrister’s Son.--I return to the City.--Leave Buenos
Ayres.--Banks of the River.--El Rosario.--Schools, &c.--Enterprise
of the People.--Diligences.--The Press.--Vigilantes.--Paraná.--Its
Position.--Bank.--Railroad and its Prospects. 68

CHAPTER VI.

A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY.

A new Acquaintance.--An Invitation.--We set out upon the
Plains.--Incidents of the Journey.--A Pampa Lord.--We visit his
Mansion.--The House and its Inmates.--Cattle.--Niata
Breed.--Ostriches. Riding a wild Colt.--Trial of Horses.--The
Boliadores.--Estancia Life.--The Gauchos.--Duties on the Cattle
Farm.--Feast Days and Aguardiente.--Customs of the Gauchos.--Training
Colts.--The Herdsman’s Dress. 76

CHAPTER VII.

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.

Don José and my new Guardian.--Preparations for Departure.--Pampa
Carts.--Method of driving Oxen.--Fresh Meat.--A Santa.--Farewell
to Rosario.--The Caravan.--A Halt.--Novel Mode of
Cooking.--First Lesson in Gaucho Etiquette.--A Name.--Habits
of the Bizcacha.--Burrowing Owls.--First Night in the Pampas. 101

CHAPTER VIII.

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS--CONTINUED.

A new Dress.--Riding a Ram.--Deer.--Parrots.--Mirages.--A
Troop of Carts.--A Pantana.--Grass on fire.--Another
Caravan.--Armadillos.--Guardia de la Esquina.--A sad
Story.--Irreverence of the Peons.--Cabeza del Tigre.--Indian
Attack.--Saladillo.--I visit a Rancho.--Punta del Sauce.--Its
Inhabitants.--A geographical Dispute.--La Reduccion.--Paso
Durazno.--Cerro Moro in the distance.--Indian female Spies. 117

CHAPTER IX.

FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO.

Rio Quarto.--Indian Incursions.--A novel Method of charging a
Cannon.--Scarcity of Bread.--A Bath.--The Peons’ Objection to
Bathing.--Ox brain Soup.--A mule Troop.--The
Madrina.--Armadillos.--Their Habits.--A Caravan from
Mendoza.--Bread and Ovens.--Preparations for a hungry
Time.--A Prostration. 136

CHAPTER X.

FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO--CONTINUED.

Prospects and Experiences.--The Peons’ dislike for the “Gringo.”--Fear
of Dr. Carmel.--Little Juan.--Suspicious Movements.--Sympathy
of the China Women.--Intrigue.--The Breakfast.--Don
Manuel lacks Etiquette.--Sickness.--A Dream. 152

CHAPTER XI.

SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT.

Don Manuel the Capataz.--His Services as Baqueano.--A Mendoza
Troop of Carts.--Approach to the “Interior Town.”--Appearance
of San Luis de la Punta.--The Governor.--Indian Troubles.--A
Captive.--Indian Attack.--Treatment of Foreigners.--On the
Travesia.--Watering Places.--Cacti.--Cochineal.--Condiments.--Saline
Mineral.--Its Properties and Analysis by Dr. A. A.
Hayes.--Conjectures as to its Origin. 165

CHAPTER XII.

ON THE TRAVESIA.

We cross the Desaguadero.--Artificial Canals.--La Paz.--Results of
Irrigation.--View of the Andes.--An Invitation to
Dinner.--Gormandizing of the Peons.--Santa Rosa.--Goats.--Alto
Verde.--Camp on the Road.--A Bath.--Goitre.--Preparations for entering
Mendoza.--The little China.--Arrogance of the Santiagueños.--Plants
of the Travesia.--Dwellings.--A Dialogue.--We enter the
Town.--An English Doctor.--Cool Treatment.--Circo Olympico.--A
Visit to Plaza Nueva. 182

CHAPTER XIII.

MENDOZA.

A Disappointment.--Mendoza.--The Alameda.--The Governor.--Houses,
Churches, &c.--Doings of the Priests.--The Confessionals.--Padre
A.--Madcap young Ladies.--Musical Bells.--Theatre.--Inhabitants.--The
Goitre.--San Vicente.--School Library.--Newspaper and Press of
Vansice.--Celebration of the 25th of May.--Soldiers.--Circus
Performers.--Arrival of Indians from the South.--Veracity of the
Cacique.--The Correo and his Men.--Casuchas.--Snow Travel.--A new
Character Introduced.--Destruction of the City.--Departure for San
Juan.--The consuming Lake.--Fishes.--Arrival at San Juan. 195

CHAPTER XIV.

A WINTER IN SAN JUAN.

At San Juan.--Wet and dry Winters.--Don Guillermo Buenaparte.--Visit
to Causete.--I become a Miller.--Natural History.--The
Mill.--New Characters.--The Scenery.--A curious Lot.--Inhabitants
of San Juan.--The Town.--Trade and Productions.--Agricultural
Tools.--Irrigation.--Don José the Penitent. 216

CHAPTER XV.

A WINTER IN SAN JUAN--CONTINUED.

A Mine.--A new Acquaintance.--An Account of the Prowess of a
Diablo.--His Dress.--Horse’s Trappings.--The Rastreador.--His
Skill.--A Translation from Sarmiento. 229

CHAPTER XVI.

VIENTE DE ZONDA.

Regarding the Zonda Wind.--Miers’s Opinion.--Courses of the
Zondas.--A Wind of long Duration.--South Wind.--Speculations
upon the Starting-point of the Zondas. 239

CHAPTER XVII.

ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE.

Don Guillermo relates his Adventures.--Leaves New Bedford.--Deserts
his Ship for another.--Rock of Dunda.--Terrapin Island.--Sufferings
and Escape from the Place.--Marquesas Islands.--Leaves the
Vessel.--Life among the Cannibals.--Cruel Fate of his
Companions.--Settles down to Marquesan Life.--A Ship.--Escape of Don
Guillermo.--Other Adventures.--Leaves Chili.--Additional Remarks. 245

CHAPTER XVIII.

CROSSING THE ANDES.

Preparations for leaving San Juan.--I leave the Mill.--The Post
House--The Minister and his friendly Offer.--The Flecha.--El
Durazno.--The Hut and its Occupants.--The Binchuca.--A bloodless
Battle.--El Sequion.--Chinas.--A Troop of Mules, and a
Night with the Capataz.--Up the Valley.--A Hut and a pretty
Señorita.--An elevated Plain.--Camp.--Sunrise in the Andes.--The
Road to Uspallata.--Don Fernando.--An Invitation.--Farewell
to Uspallata.--Indian Structures.--A sad Tale.--Cueste
de la Catedral.--La Punta de las Vacas. 277

CHAPTER XIX.

CROSSING THE ANDES--CONTINUED.

Descent of the Andes.--Baqueano Mule.--Waiting for the Snow to
crust over.--Strange Scenery.--Below the Snow.--Another Snow-Hut.--A
Drift.--Travellers from Chili.--Preparations for ascending the
Cordillera.--Remedy for the Puna.--A hard Road.--On the Cumbre. 296

CHAPTER XX.

FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC.

Passage down the Valley.--Eyes of Water.--The Chilians and their
Characteristics.--San Rosa.--A Chilian Welcome.--A Feast.--The
River Aconcagua.--Quillota.--At Valparaiso.--Departure for Home. 305

A THOUSAND MILES’ WALK.