Chapter II: Part 2
Annual value of the Real Property, as £. _s._ _d._
returned to Parliament in 1815 1498 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 398 3 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831,
{ 743 | 825 | 933 | 1548
giving an increase of 108 per cent. in 30 years.
Present Vicar, the Rev. John Bower, presented in 1816 by Lord Mount
Edgcumbe.
THE GEOLOGY, BY DR. BOASE.
Dr. Boase says of the geology of this little parish, that it is composed of the same schistose rocks as the eastern part of the parish of Lanlivery.
ST. LEVAN.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
St. Levan is situated in the hundred of Penwith, and is bounded to the west by the ocean, to the north by Sennon, to the east by St. Burian, to the south by the mouth of the Channel.
This parish taketh its name from the saint to whom the church is dedicated, St. Levine.
It is a daughter church of St. Burian, forming part of the deanery of St. Burian.
THE EDITOR.
St. Levan exceeds perhaps every other parish in the whole county for bold and romantic scenery.
First it possesses Trereen Dinas.
This magnificent promontory has towards the land one of those ancient entrenchments which so much distinguish the western coast, from whence the word dinas. There the point runs out into the sea, rising into a succession of natural granite towers in spires, and aiguilles, and the first presenting a perpendicular front, is crowned with the far-famed Loging Rock.
Without calling in question the religious uses made of this stone in rude and barbarous times, it may be declared as a certainty to be entirely natural. Among the thousands of rocks lying scattered in all directions, some possessing a convex surface have accidentally rested on the flat surface of another. Many such rocks are known, but this one transcends in size, and occupies a most commanding station. The rock has been measured with the greatest care, and it is believed to weigh about ninety tons, yet any one, by applying his shoulder to the edge, and favouring the vibrations, can easily cause the stone to log through a very sensible angle.
Doctor Borlase, in his most learned and ingenious speculations on the religion and policy of the Druids, paid considerable attention to rock monuments in general, and especially to this, the most remarkable of all. In p. 180 of the Antiquities, second edition, Doctor Borlase says, “In the parish of St. Levan, Cornwall, there is a promontory called Castle Treryn. This cape consists of three distinct groupes of rocks. On the western side of the middle groupe, near the top, lies a very large stone, so evenly poised, that any hand may move it to or fro; but the extremities of its base are at such a distance from each other, and so well secured by their nearness to the stone which it stretches itself upon, that it is morally impossible that any lever, or indeed force (however applied in a mechanical way) can remove it from its present situation.”
This rather over-strong expression piqued the vanity of a gallant and intrepid officer, commanding an armed vessel on the coast, in 1824, who maintained that nothing could be impossible to the courage and skill of British seamen, and therefore, attended by ten or twelve of his men, Lieutenant Goldsmith, nephew of the celebrated novelist and poet (for it would even be unjust to withhold his name, as connected with a transaction on the whole redounding to his credit), went on the eighth of April to the rock, and there, by a continued application of their united strength, they threw this huge mass into vibrations of such extent as to cause the convex surface at last to slide from its horizontal base, most fortunately in the direction opposite to that in which they stood. The rock was saved from falling to the ground, and from thence probably into the sea, by a narrow chasm which caught it in the descent.
Mr. Goldsmith having thus achieved what had been declared impossible by the highest authority that Cornwall could produce, must have congratuled himself on such complete success; but the sensations of all the neighbourhood were entirely at variance from those of the gallant officer; fears were even entertained for his life; and a meeting of the Magistrates and principal persons was contemplated, for the purpose of representing the affair to Government: but the Editor of this work being then in London, and having the honour of being known to all the Lords of the Admiralty, he went there, and representing the exploit that had been performed in the light of an indiscreet frolic, he proposed that the Admiralty should lend a proper apparatus, and send it from Plymouth, while he on his part would endeavour to raise an adequate sum of money; and that Lieutenant Goldsmith, having thrown down this natural curiosity, should superintend the putting it up again. The terms were accepted, and thirteen capstans, with blocks, chains, &c. were sent from the dock-yard.
The Editor having commenced a contribution of money with twenty-five pounds, raised it to a hundred and fifty; and on the 2d of November, in the presence of thousands, amidst ladies waving their handkerchiefs, men firing _feux-de-joye_, and universal shouts, Mr. Goldsmith had the satisfaction and the glory of replacing this immense rock in its natural position, uninjured in its discriminating properties.
In consequence of the Editor making a second application to the Admiralty, and of his commencing another contribution of money with five pounds, Lanyon Cromlech was also replaced by the same apparatus.
The walk of about a mile and a half along the cliffs from Trereen Dinas to St. Levan Church, is grand and romantic in the highest degree. Between the two points is inclosed Porth Kernow, where the water is beautifully transparent, over a fine sand composed in part of minute shells quite entire, and of various species and genera, to be collected on the beach. The church itself is in a most sequestered spot, and said by Mr. Tonkin to be dedicated to St. Levina, who was a British female, and suffered martyrdom under the Saxons before their conversion to the Christian faith.
The relics of St. Levine or Lewine were long preserved and honoured at Seaford, about ten miles from Eastbourn in Sussex, till, in 1058, eight years before the Norman Conquest, her remains, together with those of St. Idaberga, another female, and a portion of the relics of St. Oswald, were carried beyond the seas, and deposited in the abbey of St. Winock at Bergh in Flanders, amidst a variety of miracles attested by Drogo, an eye-witness, and published in the great collection of the Bollandists.
The only object worthy of attention in St. Levan church is a plain monument to Miss Thomasin Dennis, with the following inscription:
Thomasin Dennis,
de Trembath,
ingenio, suavitate, virtute
insignis,
doctrina insignissima.
Nata xxix die Septembris, 1771,
væ!
lenta sed præmatura morte
erepta
obiit xxx die Augusti 1809,
anno ætatis xxxviii.
Miss Dennis was born at Sawah in this parish, the daughter of Mr. Alexander Dennis, one of the superior class of farmers, who occupy their own estates held at quit-rents for lives. He afterwards removed to Trembath in Maddern. Her superior genius displayed itself at a very early age, in reciting poetry from our best authors, and then in producing imitations of her own. “She lisped in numbers from her mother’s arms.” French was acquired with equal accuracy and facility; and then, observing that her eldest brother appeared to make an inadequate progress in Latin, occasioned by the entire want of attention on the part of the schoolmaster at Penzance, this young lady under eighteen studied a classic language for the mere purpose of helping forward her brother.
The celebrity which Miss Dennis had now acquired, brought her acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Hitchins, the learned vicar of St. Hilary, with the Editor of this work, and with several others, more or less scholars, from all of whom she received the praises due to her superior talents, and such instruction or assistance as they could afford, by lending books, or by indicating the most approved methods of proceeding; and with such slender help her progress was so great and almost unexampled, that not only were all the Roman authors soon read, but the Greek writers followed in a rapid succession, till Æschylus and Pindar became her familiar acquaintance.
About this time Miss Dennis was induced to accompany Mr. and Mrs. Josiah Wedgewood from Penzance, chiefly as a friend and a visitor, but partly also, in return for their civilities and kindness, to overlook the progress of their son; but her health began to fail, her only sister fell into a consumption, she returned to nurse her, and died of the same most pitiable complaint.
Εν Μακαρεσσι πονων ανταξιος ειη Αμοιβη.
Nothing of her poetry has been given to the public; nor would it now be fair to print a few trifles. Miss Dennis proved herself adequate to the composition of any work in prose, by publishing in 1806, at Mr. Johnson’s in St. Paul’s Churchyard, “Sophia St. Clare,” in name indeed a novel, but far superior in style of writing and in correctness of sentiment, to the fictions of the day. From the want of incident, however, similar to those which are characterized in the drama by producing stage effect, the work failed of becoming popular.
This parish, after Trereen Dinas, is distinguished by the possession of Tol-Peder-Penwith, about a mile westward from the church, the approach to which lies under romantic cliffs, and crosses a short deep vale, where boats are sheltered in a small cove apparently inaccessible to human art or daring. At the very extremity of the point an excavation has been made by the sea, of some portion less compacted than the remainder of the rock, probably of a lode, which opens to the surface in the form of an inverted cone. This place is very dangerous of access, on account of the steep descent covered by a slippery turf; but strangers are tempted to risk their lives in approaching the abyss, by the dashing of the waves within it, and by the tremendous roar of the sea. Two gentlemen from London were induced to enter the cavern leading from the sea, and were surrounded by the tide. One, who excelled in swimming, fortunately got out and communicated the perilous situation of his companion to a neighbouring farmer, who hastened with assistance and with ropes to the spot, and succeeded in lifting him to the surface through the cone. Nor must the circumstance be omitted, that, although the stranger was possessed of a very large fortune, he could not prevail on his rescuer to accept of the least pecuniary reward for preserving the life of a fellow-creature.
The villages in this parish are of small importance. Bosistow belonged in remote times to a family of the same name, giving for their arms Azure, three escallops Vaire. Mr. Bosistow, now residing at Tredreath in Lelant, is believed to represent this ancient family. In more recent times Bosistow belonged to the Davieses.
All the farms in this parish have been constantly occupied either by the freeholders or by persons possessing leaseholds, paying quit-rents, for lives; in consequence, they have taken extreme care against making parishioners, and in managing their Poor Rate, as will appear from its small amount.
The parish feast is kept on the nearest Sunday to October the 10th.
St. Levan measures 2079 statute acres.
Annual value of the Real Property, as £. _s._ _d._
returned to Parliament in 1815 2063 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 94 4 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831,
{ 400 | 434 | 490 | 515
giving an increase of 29 per cent. in 30 years.
GEOLOGY, BY DOCTOR BOASE.
This parish is entirely situated on granite, which in many places furnishes a good and fertile soil, as has been observed in the adjoining parish of St. Burian. Its fine sea cliffs exhibit many varieties of the granite, and distinctly show the manner of arrangement in the more common and larger masses. To enter on the details of this subject, would occupy too much space. The geologist will find ample amusement along the whole line of these cliffs, which are always viewed by the romantic tourist with great delight. Besides the elevation and grand contour of the cliffs, here will be found the celebrated Logan Rock at Trereen, and the Tunnel Rock at Tol-Peder-Penwith.
THE EDITOR.
It may be observed, that I have always used the words Log-ing Rock, for the celebrated stone at Trereen Dinas. Much learned research seems to have been idly expended on the supposed name, “Logan Rock.” To log, is a verb in general use throughout Cornwall, for vibrating or rolling like a drunken man; and _an_ is frequently heard in provincial pronunciation for _ing_, characteristic of the modern present participle. The Loging Rock is therefore strictly descriptive of its peculiar motion.
LEWANNICK.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
Lewannick is in the hundred of East, and hath to the west and north Alternun, to the east South Pederwin, to the south North Hill.
The right name of this parish is Lanwennock; and it is dedicated to the same Wennack as Landewednack. It is a vicarage valued in the King’s Books at £7. 18_s._ 2_d._ The patronage in the Crown.
This is but a poor parish, and hath not many noted places in it. The most considerable is the manor of Trelask, Trelask, that is the burnt town, from such an accident I suppose happening there.
I take this to be the most ancient seat of the Lowers in this county; who in the last century were a flourishing family, divided into several branches, though now the females have carried off the estates into other families, and there are very few of the males remaining.
On the death of Edward Roper, Esq. this manor fell to ―――― Plowden, Esq. descended from the famous lawyer of that name, who is the present lord of it.
THE EDITOR.
The parish church is distinguished by some remains of Gothic ornaments, and by its lofty tower. Within the church are some recent monuments to the Archers of Trelask, and one to the Rev. W. A. Morgan, the late vicar. There are also several ancient monuments, but greatly defaced.
The villages in this parish are small, and the houses are generally constructed of the least durable materials. The principal are Hick’s Mill, Pollyfont, Trenhorne, and Trevadlack.
The manor of Trelaske, having originally belonged to a family of the same name, came to the Uptons. It is stated by Mr. Lysons that two co-heiresses of the Upton family married two brothers of the Lowers, between whom the property was divided. One half passed to the family of Plowden; and the other half was sold by Thomas Lower, Esq. who died in 1703, to John Addis, Esq. whose son purchased the share of William Plowden and others. In 1741, William Addis, Esq. bequeathed the whole to Nicholas Swete Archer, Esq. in whose collateral heirs it still remains. Trelaske is a handsome gentleman’s seat, and surrounded by extensive woods. Mr. Nicholas Swete Archer married a sister of the late Mr. Francis Basset, of Tehidy, and resided chiefly at Truro in a house the property of Mr. Enys, of Enys, who had married another sister of Mr. Francis Basset; this gentleman dying without children, left Trelaske to his nephew, whose son greatly improved the house and the place; but has recently been taken out of this life at an early age, leaving a numerous family amply provided with the gifts of fortune, and consoled by the recollection of a parent universally respected and esteemed.
The manor of Tinney Hall belonged to the family of Beaumont; the last possessor of that name, Mrs. Dorothy Beaumont, bequeathed it to her nephew Mr. John Speccot, of Penheal, from whom it passed to his relation Mr. Thomas Long (see Egloskerry), and the manor now belongs to his heir-at-law the Rev. Charles Sweet.
The etymology given by Mr. Tonkin for Trelaske does not seem to be very probable. The verb Losgi is in Cornish to burn; but it does not approach nearly to the sound of laske, and the derivation has not any support from tradition at this place, nor in Cubert, nor in Pelynt, where the name occurs.
The manor of Pollyfont was heretofore a parcel of the priory of Minster near Botreaux Castle[1], and has been annexed to the rectory of Minster parish. Some remains of a chapel are still to be seen at this place.
The great tithes belonged to the family of Gedy or Giddy, of Trebersey, from whom they descended to Mr. John Eliot, heir-at-law of the celebrated patriot Sir John Eliot, who married the heiress of that family; and they were by him devised, with the whole of his property, to Mr. William Eliot, second brother of Lord Eliot, of Port Eliot, now Lord St. Germans, who has parted with them to Mr. William Hocker, of Trewanta in this parish.
Lewanick measures 3,516 statute acres.
Annual value of the Real Property, as £. _s._ _d._
returned to Parliament in 1815 3773 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 431 8 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831.
{ 548 | 563 | 623 | 643
giving an increase of 17 per cent. in 30 years.
GEOLOGY, BY DR. BOASE.
The geology of this parish is similar to that of Alternun; this parish, however, merely touches the granite on its western corner, whilst the latter is situated on that rock through a considerable extent.
[1] See Carew, p. 125. Lord de Dunstanville’s edition.
LEZANT.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
Lezant is in the hundred of East, and hath to the west Lewannick and Linkinhorne, to the north South Pederwin and Lawhitton, to the east the river Tamar, to the south Stoke Climsland.
Lezant is an abbreviation of Lansant, the Holy Church, and so it is written in the Taxatio Beneficiorum; so called, perhaps, as being dedicated to All the Saints: so that Lezant may signify the same as All Hallows.
It is a rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £32. The patron is the Bishop of Exeter. The incumbent is the Rev. Mr. John Grant, Rector likewise of Ruan Lanyhorne, Canon of Exeter, and son-in-law to the present Bishop, Dr. Stephen Weston.
The first place of note that offers itself in this parish, is the manor of Trecarell, which gave name to an eminent family, seated here (as it is said) before the Norman Conquest, who gave for their arms, Ermine, two chevrons Sable.
Next, Landew, the black inclosure; aptly enough (in my opinion) so called, as being under a dismal hill.
This place was for several descents the seat of a younger branch of the family of Trefusis: the last of which, Nicholas Trefusis, of this place, was chosen Knight for this county in Parliament, to succeed Sir Bevil Granville, as Mr. Hugh Boscawen, of Tregothnan, was to succeed Sir Alexander Carew; both which knights fell for the King’s cause in 1643 and 1644, the first by the sword, at the battle of Lansdowne, the other by the axe, on Tower Hill. The said Nicholas Trefusis had by his wife two daughters and coheirs: Mary, married in her father’s lifetime to Edward Herle, of Prideaux, Esq. and Catherine, married after his death to Richard Kelliow, Esq.
Mr. Trefusis, by his will, bearing date August 13, 1647, settled (inter alia) this barton, with its appurtenances, called his barton and demesnes of Landew and Dinham’s land, with the Almes Pool Meadow, and Greston Moor, on the said Mr. Herle and Mary his wife, and their heirs for ever.
Mr. Herle settled in this place his eldest son, who new-built the house here, but did not live to finish it, for he died in his father’s lifetime, leaving by his wife two sons, Edward and Nicholas, and several daughters.
Edward Herle, Esq. seated himself and family here, was Sheriff of Cornwall in the 12th year of Ann, 1713; and was a Member in the last Parliament for the town of Launceston. A gentleman of bright parts, a lovely aspect, and admired and esteemed by all that had the happiness to know him,――I may say by all that ever heard of his name and character; but being miserably tormented by the gout, so as to be a perfect cripple with it, he died in the best of his time, at this place; leaving by his wife, the daughter of ―――― Northmore, of Oakhampton, in Devon, Esq. Northmore Herle, Esq. who is now about twenty years of age. His mother is since married again to Charles Kendall, M.D. second son to Archdeacon Kendall, of Killigarth, who has left her a widow, for the second time, with five daughters.
Since the above was written, Northmore Herle, Esq. has died at Oxford, unmarried, in May 1737, in the 22d year of his age.
THE EDITOR.
This parish seems to be inserted among others belonging to the hundred of East, in the valuation of Pope Nicholas, under the name Ecclesia de Sacre, and valued at £5.
Trecarrell, but slightly noticed by Mr. Tonkin, appears to have been a place of considerable consequence. The last of the original family bearing the same name, was living there in the year 1540, when, having lost his only son, Sir Henry Trecarrell built the beautiful church at Launceston. On this gentleman’s decease, the property became divided among his three daughters; but at the period of the Civil Wars Trecarrell had passed into other hands, and Mr. Maneton, then proprietor, entertained King Charles the First, on the 1st day of August 1644, previously to his proceeding to Leskeard, and from thence to the surrender of the army commanded by Lord Essex. Mr. Maneton died in 1654, since which time it has ceased to be a mansion. The property is now vested in Sir Thomas Acland, and Mr. Geake who resides on the place, where some portions of the ancient building are still to be seen, especially the remains of a hall, and of a chapel dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen.
Landew also bestowed a name on its ancient proprietors, or received it from them; two of whom occur in the list of Members returned to Parliament for Launceston.
Mr. Tonkin has mentioned the early death of Mr. Northmore Herle: this gentleman devised Landew to one of his half-sisters, daughter of Dr. Kendall, from whom it descended to the late Mr. Humphry Lawrence, of Launceston, who sold it to Mr. William Bant. But the place has been sold again, and is now the residence of John Thomas Phillipps, Esq. representative, with Mr. Carpenter of Mount Tavy, of the Phillippses of Newport and Camelford.
Landew had formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget; and there was a third in the parish, dedicated to St. Lawrence.
Carthamartha, a part of the great manor of Lawhitton, leased by Bishop Lavington to his daughter, is the occasional residence of Mr. John Gould, a place beautifully situated on the banks of the Tamar river, the most romantic of all the mountain torrents in the West of England.
The church and tower are of granite; and in it are several monuments to the eminent possessors of Trecarrell and of Landew.
There is also one to the Rev. Charles Mayson, D.D. late Rector of Lezant, and who is stated to have succeeded his father, the Rev. Peter Mayson, in 1784, and to have died here in 1815.
Lezant measures 4357 statute acres.
Annual value of the Real Property, as £. _s._ _d._
returned to Parliament in 1815 3303 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 613 19 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831,
{ 610 | 671 | 853 | 841
giving an increase of 38 per cent. in 30 years.
Present Rector, the Rev. John Bull, D.D. Canon of Christ Church.
GEOLOGY, BY DR. BOASE.
Dr. Boase says of the geology of this parish, that the rocks and the substrata belong entirely to the calcareous series, and resemble those of Lawhitton.
LINKINHORNE.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
Linkinhorne is in the hundred of East, and hath to the west St. Clair, to the north North Hill and Lezant, to the east Stoke Climsland, to the south South Hill and St. Eve.
The right name of this parish is Lankinhorne, which signifies, according to the proper meaning of the words, a church of iron, or of singular iron, but how applicable to this doth not appear to me.
This is a vicarage valued in the King’s book at £13. The patronage in John Hicks, of Trenedick, Esq. the sheaf in James Tilly, of Pentilly, Esq. and William Clobery, of Bradstone, in Devon, Esq.; the incumbent Mr. George Jeffery.
I shall, according to my usual method, begin with the most westerly estate in it, having first of all premised that in the 19 Edward I. anno 1291, this Church being valued for Pope Nicholas, by the name of Ecclesia de Lankynheon, was rated, the rectory at £4. 6_s._ 8_d._, the vicarage at £2. 13_s._ 4_d._ with a payment to the Prior of Launceston of £1. 6_s._ 8_d._
THE MANOR OF CARNEDON PRIOR.――THE ROCKY HILL.
In Domesday Book is a manor called Carneten, which I believe to be this. And if so, it was one of the manors given by William the Conqueror to Robert Earl of Morton, when he made him Earl of Cornwall.
THE EDITOR.
The manors of Millaton and Carnadon Prior belong to the Duchy of Cornwall; the latter had belonged to the Priory of Launceston, and is one of the manors given in exchange by King Henry the Eighth for the honour of Wallingford.
On the waste of this manor stands the lofty hill usually called Carraton Downs, supposed, with the exception of Brown Willy (which is elevated 1368 feet above the sea) to be the highest land in Cornwall. Here King Charles the First drew up his forces on the 2d of August, 1644, and was joined by Prince Maurice.
The manor of Trefrize or Trefy is said to have belonged, at a remote period, to the family of Trefey. It belonged to Sir Henry Trecarrell, of Trecarrell, in Lezant, and became split among his daughters. It is now again united in the family of Vyvyan, of Trelowarren. Some accounts represent this place as having been very magnificent, and the residence of a Lord (qu. Laird?) Trefey.
In this parish are several elevated points of land covered with granite or other crystaline rocks in the most magnificent groups, and commanding extensive prospects, first over this rugged ground, then across the Tamar, and its fertile vale, with Hamoaze, Plymouth, and the Sound, having the whole bounded by the mountains of Dartmoor.
Among the most remarkable of those points or carnes are Sharp or Sharpy Tor, the Cheese Wring, and the Hurlers. But for a minute and accurate description of the whole district, the Editor would again refer, as he has done under St. Clair, to “Topographical and Historical Sketches of the Borough of East and West Looe, and of the neighbourhood. By Thomas Bond, Esq. 1 vol. 8vo. 1823, printed for J. Nichols and Son, Parliament Street, Westminster.”
The church having fallen into decay was rebuilt by the munificent founder of Launceston Church, Sir Henry Trecarrell: it contains several monuments.
Linkinhorne parish measures 7292 statute acres.
Value of the Real Property, as returned £. _s._ _d._
to Parliament in 1815 5643 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 886 0 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831,
{ 924 | 1002 | 1080 | 1159
giving an increase of somewhat more than 25 per cent. in 30 years.
GEOLOGY, BY DR. BOASE.
The geological structure of this parish is similar to that of St. Clear. Its western part rests on granite, forming high and barren hills, the sides and summits of which are covered with boulders and tors. Of the latter the most interesting is the celebrated Cheese Wring. Its eastern part consists of massive and schistose varieties of felspar rocks and green stone.
LUDGVEN, or LUDGEAN.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
Ludgian is situated in the hundred of Penwith, and hath to the west Maddern, to the north Lelant and Towedneck, to the east St. Erth and St. Hilary, to the south Gulval and the Mount’s Bay.
Mr. Gwavas derives the name from Lug Var, the high or hilly placed tower. To which the situation of this church does very well agree.
This is a rectory valued in the King’s book at £30. 11_s._ 6_d._ The patronage in the Duke of Bolton.
At the Taxation of Pope Nicholas, in 1291, this church is valued at £7 a year, having never been appropriated; and it is there called Ecclesia de Ludewon.
The chief place in this parish, on which stands the church, is the manor of Ludgian Lease, that is, Ludgian place, or inclosed land. In Domesday Book it is called Ludaham, being one of the manors given by William the Conqueror to his half-brother, Robert Earl of Morton.
THE EDITOR.
The manor of Ludgean Lease has been of great consequence and extent. It still spreads over lands in several parishes; and holds as appendages the advowson to the rectory of this parish, and the high lordship of St. Ives, where certain honorary perquisites are paid to the lord of this manor for ships entering the port; and moreover, on the day of holding the annual court, the corporation maces are borne before the steward. Mr. Lysons states that the manor was given by Richard Earl of Cornwall to the family of Ferrers; from whom it passed, by successive female heirs, to those of Champernown and Willoughby (Lord Broke), and from a coheiress of the latter to the family of Paulet; and it now belongs to the two daughters, or their descendants, of Henry Paulet, last Duke of Bolton, who died in 1794.
Treassow has been for a considerable time the seat of the family of Rogers, since removed to Penrose, in the neighbourhood of Helston, in consequence of a large fortune acquired there by Mr. John Rogers, as steward to the Godolphins.
Annexed to Treassow is Castle-an-Dinas, the most lofty hill in that whole district, and the one standing furthest towards the south. It differs, however, from all the other hills thereabout in the quality of its material; for, although the whole is granite, not a rock is to be seen, and at its north-western base works are carried on, similar to those near St. Austell for preparing china-clay. On the top of the hill a considerable part remains of the extensive dinas, entrenchment, or castle, that has given the name, reduplicated in modern times, from an entire forgetfulness of the Celtic language.
Borlase gives the following description of these remains:
“Castle-an-Dinas consisted of two stone walls, one within
the other, in a circular form, surrounding the area of the
hill. The ruins are now fallen on each side of the walls,
and show the work to have been of great height and
thickness. There was also a third, or outer wall, built more
than halfway round. Within the walls are many little
inclosures of a circular form, about seven yards diameter,
with little walls round them of two or three feet high; they
appear to have been so many huts for the shelter of the
garrison. The diameter of the whole fort from east to west
is four hundred feet, and the principal ditch sixty feet.
Towards the south, the sides of the hill are marked by two
large green paths, about ten feet wide. Near the middle of
the area is a well, almost choked up with its own ruins, and
at a little distance a narrow pit, its sides walled round,
probably for water also, now filled up.”
On this account the following remarks have been made by a recent intelligent writer:[2]
“It is to be regretted that Borlase did not publish a plan
to illustrate his description of this Castle, as it has been
much dilapidated since his time. A tower was built on the
site of the outer wall about forty years ago, by Mr. Rogers,
of Penrose; and subsequent reparations have not contributed
towards a restoration of the old walls. Nor are there any
perceptible remains of the inclosures, two or three feet
high, which formed the huts for the shelter of the garrison;
but in this respect, Borlase’s description exactly
corresponds with the remains I observed within the area of
Chûn-Castle, as already mentioned. I could discover no
traces of the ancient entrance, nor does Borlase notice it;
if it was towards the west, as at Chûn-Castle, it has been
blocked up, for the walls on that side seem to have been
rebuilt or repaired; if on the southern side, where, Borlase
says, there were two broad paths leading up the side of the
hill, towards the Castle, it has been totally destroyed.
“I now proceed to a description of this ancient and curious
fortress. The first inclosure is a mound of earth alone,
seven or eight feet high, surrounded by a ditch. Within
this, a second fosse, or ditch, encircled the _outer wall_,
which was built as before described, and is about five feet
in thickness, and four or five high, excepting towards the
south-east, where it has been destroyed, and the materials
used in building the tower before mentioned.
“A vallum, or terrace, separates this wall from another of
considerable strength and thickness, being thirteen feet
across at the top. The circular area inclosed by this wall
is two hundred and fifty-four feet in diameter. A third
wall, of no great substance or height, like the others,
appears to have made a circuit within this space, and
reduced the diameter to one hundred and ninety feet. But
what is most curious in this Castle, is the appearance of a
certain wavy outline, slightly raised above the natural
soil, but overgrown with turf. The singular form of these
foundations, if they are supposed to be the inclosures
noticed by Borlase, and their exact regularity, which I took
some pains to ascertain, is perhaps deserving the attention
of some more experienced antiquary.
“The area within is very uneven, and has, nearly in the
centre, a small round inclosure, twenty-two feet in
diameter, without an entrance. It is exactly similar in its
construction to the remains in Caër-Brane and Bartìnè
Castles. There is a well also within the circuit of the
walls, and we were told it was never known to be without
water. The diameter of the whole work, from ditch to ditch,
north and south, is four hundred and thirty-six feet.”
Rosevithney was for ages a gentleman’s residence. The family of Larmer possessed it during a considerable time, till it passed by an heiress to a branch of the Davieses. The freehold has recently been sold three or four times.
Trowell, an adjoining farm, which belonged to the Godolphins, is remarkable for the extremely productive copper-mine, called Whele Fortune, which first launched Mr. Lemon on his splendid voyage through life.
The name of another farm in Ludgean, which cannot be accidental, requires notice. On this farm was a well, now destroyed by mines, having, in all probability, some slight quality of a chalybeate. The water acquired an established reputation for the relief of weak sight, and hundreds repaired there every year to bathe their eyes. The farm is named Collurian, and has been so time out of mind.
Varfull has been held as a leasehold for lives, or under copy of court roll, for more than a century, by the family of Davy, and actually belonged to Sir Humphry Davy, whose name has reflected so much honour, not on Cornwall alone, but on the whole nation to which he belonged.
The church, with the church town and the rectory, are placed in a commanding situation, and being surrounded by trees, make one of the most pleasing objects in the Mount’s Bay. The house has been entirely rebuilt by the late rector Mr. John Stephens. The tower is one of the most correct in its proportions and in its ornaments of any in the west of Cornwall. About the year 1761, a pinnacle was thrown down by lightning, and the effect was then universally imputed to the vengeance of a perturbed spirit exorcised from Treassow, and passing eastward towards the usual place of banishment in the Red Sea.
A more ancient legend is also connected with this church. After St. Ludgvan, an Irish missionary, if such a one ever existed, had constructed the fabric, he brought a stream of water under the church stile, with the intention of bestowing on the water various miraculous powers; among others, that of enabling every infant sprinkled with it at the baptismal font, instantly to acquire the power of making all the responses in distinct words, and probably in the Latin tongue; but, being interrupted by some unhallowed interference, his general purposes were defeated, so that one alone of the many intended qualities could by possibility be conferred; a qaality very different from the former, but so much esteemed by some descriptions of persons, that, within times of memory, children are reported to have been brought there for baptism, to acquire the protection afforded by this consecrated stream, which, after washing away the stain of original sin, does not indeed effectually guard the infant against committing crimes of his own, but against ever expiating them through the medium of an hempen cord; and experience is said to have proved that the charm does not extend to one of silk.
But the church of Ludgvan is not driven to seek renown from ancient missionaries or from legendary saints: during fifty years of the eighteenth century, it had for its rector Dr. William Borlase, a man of whom Cornwall will ever have reason to be proud.
At a time when the very names of natural science were scarcely heard among us, and when our mining and metallurgic processes were matters merely empiric, Dr. Borlase kindled the first spark of light, and fanned it by long-continued and able exertions, guided by a correspondence with persons the most distinguished on the continent of Europe, as well as at home, with the great Linnæus, and with Boerhaave, in some departments superior even to Linnæus himself. When no communications were maintained by the rapid circulation of periodical journals, antiquities, as connected with classical acquirements, had proceeded much further than the sciences dependent on mathematics and on natural philosophy. Dr. Borlase, in a most learned work, essayed to trace the learning, the mythology, and the civil institutions of the Celtic people, the earliest inhabitants of Britain, and especially of their priests the Druids; and with such success, that it established his high reputation for learning, for extensive research, and for discriminating judgment, throughout the literary world, where the subject, from its general nature, excited universal attention. For this work the degree of Doctor in Civil Law by diploma was conferred on him by the University of Oxford; an honour bestowed with so much discrimination and regard to its high value, that the next instance occurs in the case of Dr. Johnson, about ten years afterwards.
* * * * *
The following document has been copied by the Editor from the official Register at Oxford, and it is inserted as a record at once honourable to Dr. Borlase and to the University:
“Mr. Vice-Chancellor and Gentlemen,
“Whereas I have been informed that it is proposed among you
to confer the degree of Doctor in Civil Law by diploma upon
the Reverend William Borlase, Master of Arts, formerly of
Exeter College, and now Rector of Ludgvan in Cornwall, whose
abilities as a scholar are sufficiently known to the public
by his learned and valuable work, entitled ‘The Natural
History and Antiquities of Cornwall;’ and also having heard
that he has been a considerable benefactor to the University
by presenting to the Ashmolean Museum a curious collection
of ores, crystals, and other specimens of natural subjects,
I give my full consent that he should receive the proposed
testimony of your approbation, and am, Mr. Vice-Chancellor
and Gentlemen,
Your affectionate friend and servant,
LITCHFIELD.
“_Hill Street, March 8, 1766._”
“Lectis hisce literis et approbatis, diploma tenoris
sequentis per registrarium lectum erat, et ex decreto
venerabilis domus in proxima congregatione communi
Universitatis sigillo muniendum.
“Cancellarius, Magistri, et Scholares Universitatis
Oxoniensis omnibus ad quos præsens scriptum pervenerit,
salutem in Domino sempiternam.
“Cum a majoribus nostris eo consilio gradus academici
instituti fuerint, ut eximia virorum eruditorum studia digno
præconio honestarent, aliisque imitanda proponerent;
“Nos Cancellarius, Magistri, et Scholares Universitatis
Oxoniensis, summa cum voluptate, viri Reverendi Gulielmi
Borlase, ecclesiæ de Ludgvan in comitatu Cornubiæ rectoris,
et olim e collegio Exoniensi Artium Magistri, scripta
pervolventes, queis natalis sui soli res cum naturales tum
antiquas descripsit, magnoque sumptu et labore diutino in
lucem edidit; nec inter ea immemores benevolentiæ suæ et
pietatis in Matrem Academicam singularis, quâ varia quæ sibi
occurrebat, mineralium, metallorum, et vetustissimi ævi
reliquiarum supellectili, Museum nostrum Ashmoleanum
locupletavit, quo viro tantum de nobis et republica
literarum merito debitus constet honos, (quique etiam non
minus ecclesiam sacerdos, quam patriam ornat philosophus,)
in frequenti academicorum senatu decrevimus eundem Gulielmum
Borlase, gradu Doctoris in Jure Civili, omnibusque quæ ad
talem dignitatem pertinent privilegiis, insignire. In cujus
rei testimonium sigillum Universitatis commune, quo in hoc
casu utimur, præsentibus apponi fecimus.
“Datum in domo nostra convocationis die decimo-tertio mensis
Martii, anno Domini millessimo septingentessimo sexagessimo
sexto.”
Not having been born sufficiently early even to see this highly distinguished person, I am induced to copy the following short notices from a well-known Biographical Dictionary, with a few trifling alterations:
The Rev. William Borlase, LL.D. a very ingenious and learned writer, was of an ancient family in Cornwall, and born at Pendeen in the parish of St. Just, February 2d, 1695-6. His father had represented St. Ives in Parliament.
Mr. Borlase received the early part of his education at Penzance, but in 1709 removed to Plymouth. In March 1712-13 he became a member of Exeter College; and in June 1719, took his degree of Master of Arts. In 1720 he was ordained priest, and in 1722 he received institution to the rectory of Ludgvan in Cornwall. In 1732 the Lord Chancellor King presented him to the vicarage of St. Just, his native parish, the only preferments he ever obtained.
In the parishes of Ludgvan and St. Just were at that time rich mines of copper and of tin, abounding with a great variety of curious minerals. These he collected, and from that pursuit was led to study at large the natural history of this most interesting county.
The numerous monuments of remote antiquity scattered over the hills and promontories of Cornwall, made also deep impressions on his mind, and he availed himself of every resource placed within his reach, by previous learning and erudition, to acquire a knowledge of the Druidical learning, and of the manners and customs of the ancient Britons previously to their becoming Christians. In 1750 he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society, and in 1753 published in a folio volume, at Oxford, “The Antiquities of Cornwall.” A second edition in the same form came out at London in the year 1769, with considerable additions, under the following title: “Antiquities, Historical and Monumental, of the County of Cornwall, consisting of several Essays on the ancient Inhabitants, Druid Superstition, Customs, and Remains of the most remote Antiquity in Britain and the British Isles; exemplified and proved by Monuments now extant in Cornwall and the Scilly Islands: with a Vocabulary of the Cornu-British language. Revised, with several additions, by the Author.”
His next publication had for its title, “Observations on the ancient and present state of the Islands of Scilly, and their importance to the Trade of Great Britain,” Oxford, 1756, 4to. This work was an extension of a paper, read before the Royal Society in 1753.
In 1758 came out his “Natural History of Cornwall, with Engravings of all the specimens, both animate and mineral, deemed to be of curiosity or of importance,” printed also at Oxford, in one volume folio, the original specimens and many antiquities being deposited in the Ashmolean Museum.
All these works, executed with great ability, patient diligence, and skill, raised the reputation of the author so high throughout the learned world, that in March 1766, the University of Oxford conferred on him their highest honour, the degree of Doctor by diploma, which he lived to enjoy somewhat more than six years, having departed this life on the 31st of August, 1772.
Besides his literary correspondence with various learned men, he carried on one of peculiar frequency with the great poet of his age, Mr. Alexander Pope, and a large collection of Mr. Pope’s letters to him is still extant, with a variety of other papers, obviously intended for publication.
Dr. Borlase furnished Mr. Pope with many Cornish fossils to decorate his celebrated grotto at Twickenham, where the donor’s name was scored in capitals of the most splendid materials; and in a letter written on the occasion, Mr. Pope says, “I am much obliged to you for your valuable collection of Cornish diamonds. I have placed them where they may best represent yourself, in a shade, but shining.”
The Royal Society is indebted to Dr. Borlase for about twenty different communications, and in addition to all these labours, he for several years undertook the care of some private pupils, and had together under his roof the heirs of the principal families in the neighbourhood, Hawkins, St. Aubyn, and Vyvyan.
A plain stone has been laid over his remains in Ludgven Church, with an inscription rendered almost illegible in the short period of sixty years.
The monument of some distinguished person bears an inscription ending with these words:
Commemorat hæc tabula
brevi et ipsa interitura.
But we may console ourselves with a better reflection,――
Ανδρων γαρ επιφανων πασα Γη Ταφος, και ου Στηλων μονον εν τῃ οικειᾳ σημαινει επιγραφη, αλλα και εν τῃ μη προσηκουσῃ αγραφος μνημη παρ’ εκαστῳ της γνωμης μαλλον η του εργου ενδιαιταται.
Dr. William Borlase left two sons, one a Fellow of All Souls College, and subsequently presented to the University living of South Tetherwin near Launceston. He married Miss Alice Dewen of Marazion, but died without a family.
The other son was rector of St. Mewan, and his grandson is now in possession of the family estates, not one of the numerous sons of Dr. Walter Borlase having left a male heir.
Since the decease of Dr. William Borlase, two permanent rectors have alone held the church up to the last year 1834, Mr. Herbert Praed, second son of Mr. Humphry Mackworth Praed of Trevethow, and Mr. John Stephens of Tregenna; but their relative situations, in regard to the individuals possessing the right of presentation, have induced many to conjecture that this power may have been exercised from considerations not strictly conformable to those in contemplation when advowsons were entrusted to private hands. Mr. Stephens is succeeded by the Rev. Henry Elliot Graham; a relation or connection of the gentleman now representing the Powlet family.
The chief proprietor of land in this parish is the Rev. John Rogers of Penrose, canon residentiary of Exeter. Mr. Gregar of Trewarthenick has also some farms; and as leasehold proprietors, the family of Curnow have been ancient residents.
The parish feast is kept on the nearest Sunday to St. Paul’s Day, January 25.
This parish measures 3941 statute acres.
Annual value of the Real Property, as £. _s._ _d._
returned to Parliament in 1815 5755 0 0
Poor Rate in 1831 561 3 0
Population, { in 1801, | in 1811, | in 1821, | in 1831,
{ 1324 | 1491 | 1839 | 2322
giving an increase of 75 per cent. in 30 years.
GEOLOGY, BY DR. BOASE.
The northern corner of this parish is situated on granite, resembling that of Gulval in every respect, except as to one variety abounding in mica. Much of this stone may be seen in the more ancient houses at Penzance. The spot, however, from whence this stone was procured, is no longer known. A difference of opinion is indeed entertained as to whether it was gotten from blocks near the surface, or from a bed that has been exhausted; but all are agreed as to the district from whence it came; and it is universally known by the name of Ludgvan stone. The property of cleaving evenly into regular blocks, eminently possessed by this species of granite, makes it valuable for building purposes; and this property is clearly derived from the even arrangement of the scale of mica in which it abounds.
Between the granite and the sea-shore a considerable portion of the schistose rocks is covered by a marsh, and by banks of sand. These rocks are made up of compact felspar, sometimes nearly pure, at others intimately united with hornblend or actynolite; they are traversed by courses or dykes of felspar porphyry, as may be seen on the sea-shore.
[2] Extracted from an “Account of certain Hill Castles, near
the Land’s End in Cornwall,” by William Cotton, Esq. F.S.A.
printed in the Archæologia, vol. XXII. where a plan and
section of Castle-an-Dinas will be found, taken with greater
care than that in Lysons’s Cornwall. In the Gentleman’s
Magazine, LXXII. p. 393, are engravings of two stone weights
found within the inner circle of this fortress. The weight
of one was seventeen pounds and a half; and that of the
other three pounds one ounce.
LUXILIAN, or LUXULIAN.
HALS.
The manuscript relating to this parish is lost.
TONKIN.
Luxilian is in the hundred of Powder, and hath to the west St. Roche and St. Anstell, to the north Lanivet, to the east Lanlivery, to the south St. Blasey and Tywardreth.
The right name of this parish is Lan Julian, the church of Saint Julian; but although the church was originally dedicated to him, it has since changed its patron, and belongs to St. Ayre.
It is a vicarage, valued in the King’s books at 10_l._ The patronage in Sir Nicholas Trevanion and Mrs. Carverth, now married to Mr. Cole, the present incumbent, whose father was incumbent before him. This church was valued, if at all in the taxation of Pope Nicholas, together with that of Lanlivery, both being then appropriated to the priory of Tywardreth.
I shall begin with the principal as well as the most westerly estate in it,
THE MANOR OF PRIDEAUX.
This some would derive from a French original, as being pres d’eaux, near the waters; for that the sea formerly flowed up as high as this place, till the stream works choaked up its entrance, any one that views the high cliffs under this place, and those on the opposite side of the valley in Tywardreath, must needs be convinced of. And this leads me to another etymology for it, and as suitable to its situation, from Pir or Prid, clay, and Aus, the same with Als, the cliff or sea-shore.
But be this how it will, Prideaux Castle herein was for several ages (probably before the Norman Conquest) the seat of, and gave name to a family which hath been very eminent both in this county and in Devonshire, and still flourisheth in both. Thomas de Prideaux represented this county in the Parliament 26 Edward I. and Roger de Prideaux was Sheriff of Cornwall 15 Edward III. His father Dominus Thomas Prideaux de Prideaux, was one of those who had in the 25th of Edward I. 20_l._ per annum or more, in lands or rents in this county, which he held by knight’s service. This family gave for their arms, Party per pale Azure and Gules, three castles Counterchanged; which arms are now quartered by Mr. Prideaux of Padstow, who is descended, as well as all of the name, from younger branches of the family residing here.
THE EDITOR.
There does not seem to be any thing connected with the remaining property of this parish that is important or curious. The chief landholders are the Rashleigh family, and Mrs. Agar, representative of the Robertses.
Mr. Coleman Rashleigh, son of Mr. John Rashleigh of Penquite, a younger brother from Menabilly, has purchased Prideaux, built there an excellent modern house, and restored the place, although in a different style, to its ancient splendour. This gentleman has distinguished himself as one of the most active, most able, and most energetic among those who have supported in Cornwall the theories leading to recent organic change in the system of our representation, and he has been created a Baronet by the Reform administration.
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The Parochial History of Cornwall, Volume 3 (of 4)Chapter II: Part 2
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