Chapter I: Preface

Cuba having lately become a prominent object of attention, both to Europe and America, I venture to think that any trustworthy information that can be given respecting it, may prove acceptable to the reader. I approach my task with no great pretensions, but yet with an experience acquired by many years' residence in the Island, and an intimate intercourse with its inhabitants. I arrived there in 1864, when Cuba was enjoying uninterrupted peace and prosperity, and my departure took place in the first year of her adversity. Having thus viewed society in the Island under the most opposite conditions, I have had various and ample opportunities of studying its institutions, its races and its government; and in availing myself of these opportunities I have endeavoured, as far as possible, to avoid those matters which are alike common to life in Spain and in Cuba.

As I write, Cuba is passing through a great crisis in her history. For this reason my experiences may prove more interesting than they might otherwise have done; nor do I think that they will be found less attractive, because it has been my choice to deal with the subject before me from the point of view rather of an artist than of a traveller or a statistician.

Perhaps I may be allowed to add, that the matter contained in these pages will be almost entirely fresh to the reader; for, although I have included a few papers which I have from time to time contributed to _All the Year Round_, _Cassell's Magazine_, and _London Society_, I have taken care to introduce them in such a manner as not to break the continuity with which I have endeavoured to connect the various parts of my subject.

In explanation of the title chosen for this volume, I may remark that 'the Pearl of the Antilles' is one of the prettiest in that long series of eulogistic and endearing titles conferred by poets and others on the Island of Cuba, which includes 'the Queen of the Antilles,' 'the Jewel in the Spanish Crown,' 'the Promised Land,' 'the Summer Isle of Eden,' 'the Garden of the West,' and 'the Loyal and Ever-faithful Isle.'

WALTER GOODMAN.

22 LANCASTER ROAD, WESTBOURNE PARK, LONDON: 1873.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

A CUBAN WELCOME.

PAGE

Our Reception at Santiago de Cuba--Spanish Law--A Commemorative Feast--Cuban Courtesy--Coffee House Politeness

CHAPTER II.

DAILY LIFE IN CUBA.

A Cuban Home--My Bed-Room--A Creole Breakfast--Don Benigno and his Family--A Cuban Matron--Church-going in connection with Shopping--An Evening Tertulia--A Tropical Moon

CHAPTER III.

ART-PATRONAGE IN CUBA.

Our Studio--Our Critics--Our Patrons--Still-Life

CHAPTER IV.

A CUBAN 'VELORIO.'

More Still-Life--A Night-Wake--Mourners--Dona Dolores--A Funeral Procession--A Burial

CHAPTER V.

CUBAN MODELS.

Tropical Birds--The Coco's--La Grulla--Vultures--Street Criers--Water Carriers

CHAPTER VI.

CUBAN BEGGARS.

Carrapatam Bunga--The Havana Lottery--A Lady Beggar--A Beggar's Opera--Popular Characters--Charity--A Public Raffle--The 'King of the Universe'

CHAPTER VII.

THE BLACK ART IN CUBA.

A Model Mulatto--A Bewitched Watchman--Cuban Sorcery--An Enchanted Painter

CHAPTER VIII.

A TASTE OF CUBAN PRISON-LIFE.

Two Views of the Morro Castle--The Commandant--The Town Jail--Cuban Policemen--Prisoners--A Captive Indian--Prison Fare--A Court of Justice--A Trial--A Verdict

CHAPTER IX.

A WEST INDIAN EPIDEMIC.

A Cuban Physician and his Patient--A Nightmare--A Mystery--A Cure--By the Sad Sea Waves--A Cuban Watering-place--Lobster-hunting--Another View of the Morro Castle--What 'Dios sabe' means

CHAPTER X.

GENERAL TACON'S JUDGMENT.

Pleasant Company--The Cigar Girl of Havana--A Tobacconist Shop in Cuba--A Romance of Real Life--Spanish Justice abroad

CHAPTER XI.

(VERY) HIGH ART IN CUBA.

On the Ceiling--'Pintar-monos'--A Chemist's Shop a la Polychrome--Sculpture under Difficulties--'Nothing like Leather'--A Triumph in Triumphal Arches--Cuban Carpenters--The Captain-General of Havana

CHAPTER XII.

A CORRESPONDENT IN THE WEST INDIES.

American News-agents and their Work--Local Information--The 'Glorious Campaign' of Santo Domingo--'El Canon de Montecristo' Wounded Soldiers--Still-Life again--A Visit from the Spanish Fleet--Escape from Jail

CHAPTER XIII.

CUBAN MUSIC.

A Soiree at Don Laureano's--An eminent Violinist and Composer--Cuban Pianos--_Real_ Negro Minstrels--Carnival Songs--Coloured Improvisatores

CHAPTER XIV.

MASQUERADING IN CUBA.

Deserted--'Los Mamarrachos'--A French-Creole Ball--Street Masquers--Negro Amateurs--Masks and Dominoes--The Plaza de Armas--Victims of the Carnival--A Cuban Cafe in Holiday Time--'Comparsas'--White and Black Balls--A Moral

CHAPTER XV.

AN EVENING AT THE RETRETA.

A Musical Promenade--My Friend Tunicu--Cuban Beauties--Dark Divinities--A Cuban Cafe--A Popular 'Pollo'--Settling the Bill!

CHAPTER XVI.

AT A CUBAN BALL.

The Philharmonic and its Members--A Street Audience--The Guests--Engaging Partners--'La Carabina'--'La Danza Criolla'--Dance Music--Refreshments--A Pretty Partner--A Night with Cuban Gamblers--Spanish Cards--An Old Hand--'Temblores'

CHAPTER XVII.

CUBAN THEATRICALS.

The Stage-Door Keeper--A Rehearsal--The Spanish Censor--A Cuban Audience--Dramatic Performances--Between Acts--Behind the Scenes--A Denouement in Real Life

CHAPTER XVIII.

MY DEBUT ON A CUBAN STAGE.

An Engagement--A Foreign 'Star'--A Benefit Night--A Local Play--First Appearance--A serious 'Hitch'--Re-engagement

CHAPTER XIX.

COFFEE GROUNDS OF CUBA.

Going out of Town--On the Road--A wayside Inn--A Cane Field--West Indian Fruit Trees--The Arrival--A Dinner in the Country--The Evening Blessing--Tropical Reptiles--A Farm Yard--Slave Flogging--Coffee--Tropical Scenery--A Siesta

CHAPTER XX.

COUNTRY-LIFE AT A SUGAR ESTATE.

An Artist's Tent--Early Sport--An 'Ingenio'--Sugar and Rum--Afternoon Sport--A Ride through the Country--Negro Dancing--An Evening in the Country--'La Loteria'

CHAPTER XXI.

LOVE-MAKING IN THE TROPICS.

My Inamorata--Clandestine Courtship--A Love Scene--'Il Baccio' in Cuba--The Course of True Love--A Stern Parent

CHAPTER XXII.

A CUBAN CONVENT.

Without the Walls--'El Torno'--A Convent Letter--Accomplices--A Powder Plot--With the Nuns--Don Francisco the Dentist

CHAPTER XXIII.

A CRUISE IN THE WEST INDIES.

Cuban Telegraphy--The 'New York Trigger'--News from Porto Rico--A Day in Porto Rico--Don Felipe--A Mail Agent--Coasting--Aguadilla--Mayagueez--Santo Domingo--Sight-seeing--Telegraphic News

CHAPTER XXIV.

A STATE OF SIEGE IN CUBA.

A Cuban Newspaper Office--Local Intelligence--The Cuban Revolution--Spanish Volunteers--A Recruit--With Bimba--'Los Insurrectos'--At a Fire--Cuban Firemen

CHAPTER XXV.

CUBAN WARFARE.

Spanish Soldiers--A Sally--Prisoners of War--'Los Voluntarios'--A Triumphant Return--Danger!--Cuban Emigrants

CHAPTER XXVI.

HAVANA CIGARETTES.

PAGE

Cigars--The Etiquette of Smoking--A Cigarette Manufactory--The Courteous Proprietor--The Visitors' Book--Cigarette Rolling

CHAPTER XXVII.

A MULATTO GIRL.

An Obscure Birth--Bondage--A Bad Master--A Good Godfather--A Cuban Christening--Anomaly of Slavery--A White Lover--Rivals--An Important Event

CHAPTER XXVIII.

A MULATTO GIRL (_continued_).

The Slave Trade--Ermina and her Lover--Panics--'Los Insurrectos' v. 'Los Voluntarios'--A Wounded Patriot--Spanish Law and Cuban Law--The 'Mambi's'--A Promise--An Alarm--All's Well that ends Well

CHAPTER XXIX.

A CUBAN WEDDING.

Open Engagements--A Marriage Ceremony--A Wedding Breakfast--The Newly Married Couple

CHAPTER XXX.

CUBANS IN NEW YORK.

The Morro Castle again--Summer and Winter--Cuban Refugees--Filibusters--'Los Laborantes' of New York and their Work--American Sympathisers

THE

PEARL OF THE ANTILLES