Chapter I: Front Matter

[Picture: Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea]

THE
PEDESTRIAN’S GUIDE
THROUGH
NORTH WALES.

A TOUR
PERFORMED IN 1837.

BY
G. J. BENNETT, ESQ.

WITH TWENTY ETCHINGS,

BY A. CLINT.

* * * * *

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN PUBLISHER,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1838.

* * * * *

LONDON:
SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.

ILLUSTRATIONS, &c.

Page
1 Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea. Title
2 Chirk Castle. 68
3 Llangollen. 93
4 Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd. 99
5 Castle Dinas, Bran. 108
6 Valle Crucis Abbey. 121
7 Pillar of Eliseg. 128
8 Bala Lake. 155
9 Cader Idris, from the Bala Road. 171
10 Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr. 174
11 View from Carreg y Saeth. 209
12 Harlech Castle. 215
13 The Vale of Maentwrog. 219
14 The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog. 231
15 Pont Aber Glaslyn. 237
16 Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant. 251
17 Pass of Llanberis. 254
18 The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus. 319
19 Conway Castle. 325
20 Aber. 362
WELSH MELODIES, ETC.
21 Guide for the Pedestrian. 11
22 The Fairy’s Serenade. 109
23 Battle Song. 131
24 Jenny Davies. 143
25 Mountain Mary. 176
26 Dafydd ap Shenkin. 305
27 Farewell to North Wales. 384

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. Page Preliminary observations—Preparations for a tour—Coach 11 conversation—A breakfast and an American traveller—Route to Birmingham—A dinner—Road to Wolverhampton—Eccentric passengers—Lord Hill’s monument—Shrewsbury. CHAPTER II. Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—An agreeable 30 companion—Delights of a Tourist—Histrionic Ambition—Wittington—The Castle—The Church—Curious Epitaphs. CHAPTER III. Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, a legend—Description of 57 Chirk Castle—Sketch—The Park—Legend of the enchanted Stag—The Vale of Llangollen—Account of the Aqueduct called Pont-y-Cysylltau—Stanzas for music—Llangollen—The Hand in Hand—A view of the village. CHAPTER IV. Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and the grounds—Lines written 96 at the font—Castle Dinas, Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View of the Castle—Legend of the Minstrel Fay—Original Air—Festival. CHAPTER V. Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in the ruins—A 121 loquacious porteress—A view of the Abbey—The pillar of Eliseg—A parting—Road to Corwen—Vale of the Dee—The musical pedestrian—War song—Over the hills and far away—An adventure—Corwen—The Church—College—Cross and Circle—Air Llwyn-own—Route to Llandrillo—An old soldier and his son—Village of Llandrillo—A fair—Vale of Edeyrnion—Arrival at Bala. CHAPTER VI. Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The 154 Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written at Rhewlas—Farewell to the Bull’s Head—A Jolter—Llanthyn—Vale of Drwstynrnt—Legend of handsome Hugh and the Fairy—Cader Idris—Dolgelley—Song “Mountain Mary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St. Mary’s Church—Inns—Angling Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Howell Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A Walk on the sands. CHAPTER VII. Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—The 183 Estuary—Friar’s Island—Dinas Gortin—Earl of Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and the men of Denbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—Llyn Cwm Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of Cwm Bychan—Legendary Tale—Bwlch Tyddiad—A mountain ride and a regretful farewell CHAPTER VIII. Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap 213 Einion—Road to Maentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The Oakley Arms—Pleasures of Fly fishing—New Companions—Angling Stations—An Adventure—Road to Tremadoc—Tan y Bwlch—Port Madoc Breakwater and Mountain Scenery described—Tremadoc—Tan yr Allt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines written at the Bridge—Beddgelert—The Inn—Story of a Pointer. CHAPTER IX. Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn 246 Gwynant—Lines written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public House—Lake Fishing—A Night Adventure—Pass of Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of Llanberis. CHAPTER X. The church of Llanberis—Monumental inscriptions—Story of 280 little John Closs—The Pellings—Capel Curig—Moel Siabod—Castle of Dolwyddélan—Falls of Benclog—Llyn Ogwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route to Llanrwst—Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws y Coed—The church—Monuments—Pont y Pair—Ogo ap Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noble fellow!” CHAPTER XI. A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—Gwydir Castle—Llanrwst Shaking 306 Bridge—Inn—The Theatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—Alms Houses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—Llyn Gierionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—Slate Quarries—Conway—The Suspension Bridge—The Castle—Local Customs—A Phrenologist—Excursion to the Ormes’ Head—The Smuggler—The Bump of _Order_. CHAPTER XII. Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The pet Goat—Aber—Legend of 352 Llywelyn and the Captive Knight—Road from Aber to Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Bangor—Inns—The Cathedral—The Castle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song, Farewell to North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion Appendix 375