Skip to content

Chapter I: GO A-MARKETING. By Henrietta Sowle ("Henriette"). Boston: Little,

Text size

Brown & Co., 1900. (8vo) pp. 237.

LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN; OR, HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES. By Janet Ross. London: J. M. Dent & Co., 1899. (12mo) pp. 150.

MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOK-BOOK. What To Do and What Not To Do in Cooking. Revised Edition. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1901. (8vo) pp. 578.

Farley (John). THE LONDON ART OF COOKERY AND HOUSEKEEPER'S COMPLETE ASSISTANT. On a New Plan made Plain and Easy to every Housekeeper, Cook, and Servant in the Kingdom, etc., etc. London: Printed for J. Scatcherd and J. Whitaker, 1790. (8vo) pp. 459.

THE MAJESTIC FAMILY COOK-BOOK. By Adolph Gallier. Containing 1300 Selected Recipes Simplified for the Use of Housekeepers. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1897. (8vo) pp. 419.

MRS. A. B. MARSHALL'S LARGE COOKERY BOOK OF EXTRA RECIPES. With 284 Illustrations. London: Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton Kent & Co., 1894. Sixth thousand. (Tall 8vo) pp. 656.

Ellwanger (George H.). MEDITATIONS ON GOUT: With a Consideration of Its Cure Through the Use of Wine. New York: Dodd, Mead & Co., 1898. (5 x 6¾ in.) pp. xvi, 208.

MEMOIRS OF A STOMACH. Written by Himself, That All Who Eat May Read. With Notes Critical and Explanatory. By a Minister of the Interior. London: W. E. Painter, 1853. (5¼ x 6¾ in.) pp. 135.

Francatelli (Charles Elmé). THE MODERN COOK. A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All its Branches. Twenty-sixth Edition. Philadelphia: David McKay. (Tall 8vo) pp. 592.

La Chapelle (Vincent). THE MODERN COOK. By Mr. Vincent La Chapelle, Chief Cook to the Right Hon. the Earl of Chesterfield. London: Printed for the Author, and sold by Nicolas Prevost, 1733. 3 vols. (8vo) pp. 328, 316, 307.

MODERN METHOD OF REGULATING AND FORMING A TABLE EXPLAINED AND DISPLAYED. Containing a great Variety of Dinners laid out in the most elegant taste, finely represented on 152 large copperplates with descriptions, also 12 elegant dinners for different seasons of the year, list of such particulars as are in season for the use of Ladies Housekeepers. London, 1750. (Folio.)

MOTHER HUBBARD'S CUPBOARD. Receipts Collected by the Young Ladies' Society, First Baptist Church, Rochester, N. Y. Rochester: Scrantom, Wetmore & Co., 1895. (8vo) pp. 87.

A NOBLE BOKE OF COOKRY (1467). Edited by Mrs. Alexander Napier. London: Elliot Stock, 1882.

Hazlitt (W. Carew). OLD COOKERY BOOKS AND ANCIENT CUISINE. London: Elliot Stock, 1886. (4½ x 6¼ in.) pp. 263.

Walker (Thomas, M.D.). THE ORIGINAL. Fifth Edition. (Part II. THE ART OF ATTAINING HIGH HEALTH. THE ART OF DINING.) London: Henry Renshaw, 1875. (6 x 8½ in.)

Soyer (A.). THE PANTROPHEON; OR, HISTORY OF FOOD AND ITS PREPARATION FROM THE EARLIEST AGES OF THE WORLD. London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1853. (6½ x 9½ in.) pp. 474.

MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. A Guide for All who would be Good Housekeepers. By Maria Parloa. Twenty-first Edition. Boston: Dana, Estes & Co., 1887. (8vo) pp. 966.

Marnette (M.). THE PERFECT COOK. Being the most exact Directions for the making of all kind of Pastes, etc., as also the Perfect English Cook, or right method of the whole Art of Cookery, with the true ordering of French, Spanish, and Italian Kickshaws, with A-la-mode Varieties for Persons of Honour. London: Printed for Obadiah Blagrave, 1686. (12mo.)

PHILOSOPHER'S BANQUET (THE). Newly furnished and decked forth with much variety of many several Dishes, etc. By W. B. London, 1633. (12mo.)

Hill (Janet McKenzie). PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING. A Compleat Manual of How to Select, Prepare, and Serve Food, with many Illustrations. New York: Doubleday, Page & Co., 1902. (8vo) pp. xiii, 712.

Cook (Ann). PROFESSED COOKERY. Third Edition. London, 1760.

THE QUEEN'S CLOSET OPENED. Incomparable Secrets in Physick, Chyrurgery, Preserving and Canning, etc. London: Printed for Obadiah Blagrave, 1679. (12mo) pp. 190.

MRS. RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK-BOOK. A Manual of Home Economics. Philadelphia: Arnold & Co. (8vo) pp. 581.

ROUND THE TABLE: NOTES ON COOKERY AND PLAIN RECIPES. With a Selection of Bills of Fare for Every Month. By "The G. C." London: Horace Cox, 1873, 2nd edition. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co., 1876, reprint. (5 x 7 in.) pp. 303.

Gouffé (Jules). THE ROYAL COOKERY BOOK (LE LIVRE DE CUISINE). Translated and adapted for English use by Alphonse Gouffé, Head Pastry-cook to Her Majesty the Queen. Comprising Domestic and High-class Cookery; 16 full-page coloured plates and 161 woodcut illustrations. (Thick royal 8vo) 1883.

Lamb (Patrick). ROYAL COOKERY; OR, THE COMPLEAT COURT-COOK. Containing the choicest Receipts in all the several Branches of Cookery, viz., for making of Soops, Bisques, Olios, Terrines, Surtouts, Ragoos, Forc'd-meats, Sauces, Pattys, Pies, Tarts, Tansies, etc., etc. Second Edition. London: E. Nutt, at the Middle Temple Gate, 1716. (8vo) pp. 302.

Cozzens (Frederic S.). THE SAYINGS OF DR. BUSHWHACKER AND OTHER LEARNED MEN. New York: A. Simpson & Co., 1867. (5½ x 6½ in.) pp. 213.

MRS. SEELY'S COOK-BOOK. A Manual of French and American Cookery, etc., etc. By Mrs. L. Seely. New York and London: The Macmillan Co., 1902. (4to) pp. 432.

SPON'S HOUSEHOLD MANUAL. A Treasury of Domestic Receipts and Guide for Home Management. London: E. & F. N. Spon. New York: Spon & Chamberlain, 1894. (Tall 8vo) pp. 1010.

THE TABLE. How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It. By Alessandro Filippini. Revised Edition. New York: The Merriam Co., 1895. (Large 8vo) pp. 505.

THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-SIX MENUS AND RECIPES OF THE BARON BRISSE. In French and English. Translated by Mrs. Matthew Clark. Sixth Edition. London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, 1888. (8vo) pp. xvi, 400.

Peck (Harry Thurston). TRIMALCHIO'S DINNER. Translated from the Original Latin of Petronius Arbiter. New York: Dodd, Mead & Co., 1898. (5 x 7 in.) pp. 202.

TWO FIFTEENTH CENTURY COOKERY BOOKS. Harleian MS. 279 and Harleian MS. 4016. London: The Early English Text Society, 1848. (5½ x 8½ in.) pp. xix, 151.

THE WHITE HOUSE COOK-BOOK. A Comprehensive Cyclopedia of Information for the Home, Containing Cooking, Toilet and Household Recipes, Menus, Dinner-giving, Table Etiquette, etc. By Hugo Ziemann and Mrs. F. L. Gillette. Chicago: The Saalfield Publishing Co., 1900. (Large 4to) pp. 508.

* * * * *

ALMANACH DE LA SALLE À MANGER RÉDIGÉ PAR DES GOURMETS LITTÉRAIRES ET DES MAÎTRES DE BOUCHE. Paris: Bureau du Journal la Salle à Manger, 1865. (16mo) pp. 176.

ALMANACH DE LA TABLE, 1846. Avec la carte gastronomique de Paris. Paris, 1845. (32mo) pp. 128.

ALMANACH DES CHASSEURS ET DES GOURMANDS. Paris: Au Dépot de Librairie, Rue des Moulins. s. d. (12mo) pp. 144.

La Reynière (Grimod de). ALMANACH DES GOURMANDS; OU, CALENDRIER NUTRITIF SERVANT DE GUIDE DANS LES MOYENS DE FAIRE EXCELLENTE CHÈRE. Suivi de l'itinéraire d'un Gourmand dans divers quartiers de Paris, et de quelques variétés morales, nutritives, anecdotes gourmandes, etc. Par un vieil amateur. Paris: Chez Maradan, 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808; chez Joseph Chaumerot, 1810, 1812. (18mo) pp. 247, 282, 342, 336, 362, 331, 340, 360.

Raisson (Horace). ALMANACH PERPÉTUEL DES GOURMANDS. Contenant le Code Gourmand. Sixième édition, et des explications et méditations de gastronomie transcendante. Paris, au Palais Royal, 1829. (18mo.)

ALMANACH PERPÉTUEL DES PAUVRES DIABLES POUR SERVIR DE CORRECTIF À L'ALMANACH DES GOURMANDS. A Paris, chez Madame Caillot, 1803. (18mo) pp. 124.

Gérard (Charles). L'ANCIENNE ALSACE À TABLE. ETUDE HISTORIQUE ET ARCHÉOLOGIQUE SUR L'ALIMENTATION, LES MŒURS ET LES USAGES EPULAIRES DE L'ANCIENNE PROVINCE D'ALSACE. Colmar: Camille Decker, 1862. (8vo) pp. 301.

ANTIGASTRONOMIE (L'); OU, L'HOMME DE VILLE SORTANT DE TABLE. Poème en IV chants. Manuscrit trouvé dans un pâté et augmenté de remarques importantes, avec figure. A Paris, chez Hubert et C^{ie}, 1806. (12mo) pp. 215.

Fulbert-Dumonteil. L'ART DE BIEN MANGER. Fins et joyeux croquis gastronomiques, écrits pour les gourmets. Paris: Nilsson, 1901. (12mo) pp. 716.

Colnet. L'ART DE DÎNER EN VILLE À L'USAGE DES GENS DE LETTRES. Poème en IV Chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris: Delaunay, 1810. (12mo) pp. 144.

Carême (A.). L'ART DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE AU DIX-NEUVIÈME SIÈCLE, ETC., ETC. Paris, l'Auteur, 1833-1835. 3 vols. (8vo).

Mangenville (Feu le chavalier de). L'ART DE NE JAMAIS DÉJEÛNER CHEZ SOI ET DE DÎNER TOUJOURS CHEZ LES AUTRES. Enseigné en huit leçons, indiquant les diverses recettes pour se faire inviter tous les jours, toute l'année, toute la vie. A Paris, à la Librairie Universelle, 1827. (18mo) pp. 140.

Beauvilliers (A.). L'ART DU CUISINIER. Par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de Monsieur, Comte de Provence. A Paris: Chez Pillet Ainé, 1824. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. xx, 388, 408.

Vincard (Pierre). LE BANQUET DES SEPT GOURMANDS, ROMAN GASTRONOMIQUE. Paris: Gustave Sandré, 1853. (12mo) pp. 210.

Vicaire (Georges). BIBLIOGRAPHIE GASTRONOMIQUE. La cuisine--La Table--L'Office--Les Aliments--Les Vins--Les Cuisiniers et les Cuisinières--Les Gourmands et les Gastronomes. L'Economie domestique--Facéties--Dissertations singulières. Pièces de Théâtre, etc., etc., depuis le XV^e. siècle jusqu'à nos jours. Avec des fac-similés. Paris, chez P. Rouquette et Fils, Editeurs, 1890. (Large 8vo) pp. xviii, 971.

Dubarry (Armand). LE BOIRE ET LE MANGER. Histoire Anecdotique des Aliments. Paris: Furne, Jouvet et C^{ie}, 1884. (16mo) pp. 256.

Souchay (Léon). LE BON CUISINIER ILLUSTRÉ. Paris: Audot, 1886. (8vo) pp. 780.

Dumont (Emile). LA BONNE CUISINE FRANÇAISE, TOUT CE QUI A RAPPORT À LA TABLE. Manuel-guide de la cuisinière et de la maîtresse de maison. Dessins de A. B., gravés par Ysabeau. Paris: Degoree-Cadot, 1873. (12mo) pp. 674.

Croizette. LA BONNE ET PARFAITE CUISINIÈRE GRANDE ET SIMPLE CUISINE. Paris: Bernardin-Béchet et fils, 1885. Dix septième édition. (18mo) pp. 283.

Hachebée. CENT TRENTE RECETTES POUR APPRÊTER LE LAPIN. Paris: Librairie Centrale d'Agriculture et de Jardinage, 1879. (18mo) pp. 176.

Remy (Jules). CHAMPIGNONS ET TRUFFES. Paris: Librairie Agricole de la Maison Rustique, 1861. (18mo) pp. 173.

CHANSONNIER (LE NOUVEAU) DE LA TABLE ET DU LIT. Paris: Davi et Locard, 1816. (32mo) pp. 125.

Jobey (Charles). LA CHASSE ET LA TABLE. Nouveau traité en vers et en prose donnant la manière de chasser, de tuer, et d'apprêter le gibier. Paris: Furne et C^{ie}, 1864. (12mo) pp. 204.

CLASSIQUES (LES) DE LA TABLE, À L'USAGE DES PRACTITIENS ET DES GENS DU MONDE. Beau volume de 550 pages, avec les portraits gravés au burin par nos premiers artistes, de M. le Prince de Talleyrand, M. Grimod de la Reynière, Berchoux, Marquis de Cussy, Colnet, feu le Docteur Marcel Gaubert, Carême, Appert, etc. Des illustrations sont entremêlées au texte. Paris, 1844. (8vo) pp. 550.

Asseline (Alfred). LE CŒUR ET L'ESTOMAC. Paris: Michel Lévy Frères, 1853. (16mo) pp. 162.

CONTENANCE (LA) DE LA TABLE. Nouvellement imprimée à Paris. (Poème.) (8vo.) s. d.

Dupertuis (Mme.). LA CUISINE AU CHOCOLAT. Dédiée aux dames. Neuchâtel: Delachaux et Niestlé, 1885. (12mo.)

Dubois (Urbain). LA CUISINE CLASSIQUE. Etudes pratiques, raisonnées et démonstratives de l'école française par Urbain Dubois et Emile Bernard, chefs de cuisine de LL. M.M. l'Empereur et l'Impératrice d'Allemagne. Douzième édition. Paris: E. Dentu, 1886. 2 vols. (4to), pp. 467, 491. Do. Paris, Flammarion, 1899. 2 vols. (4to), pp. 500, 500.

Dubois (Urbain). LA CUISINE D'AUJOURDHUI, ÉCOLE DES JEUNES CUISINIERS. Service des déjeûners--Service des dîners, 250 manières de prépares les œufs, 260 dessins, dont 40 planches gravées. Par Urbain Dubois, auteur de la Cuisine de Tous les Pays, etc. Paris: E. Dentu, 1889. (4to) pp. xv, 760.

CUISINE (LA) DE NOS PÈRES. L'Art d'accomoder le Gibier suivant les Principes de Vatel et des Grands Officiers de Bouche. Deux cents recettes à la portée de Tout le Monde. Paris: Librairie Illustrée, 1886. (8vo.)

CUISINE (LA) DE SANTÉ. Préservatif des Maladies. Paris: Audot; Crochard, 1831. (12mo.)

Dubois (Urbain). CUISINE DE TOUS LES PAYS. Paris: Dentu, 1901. (Large 8vo, illustrated) pp. 900.

Durand (C.). CUISINE DU MIDI ET DU NORD. Paris: Garnier Frères, 1877. 9^e. édition. (8vo.)

Le Cointe (Jourdan). LE CUISINIER DES CUISINIERS; OU, L'ART DE LA CUISINE ENSEIGNÉ ÉCONOMIQUEMENT D'APRÈS LES PLUS GRANDS MAÎTRES ANCIENS ET MODERNES, ETC. 18^e. édition. Paris: Laplace, 1867. (12mo) pp. 684.

Martin (Alexandre). LE CUISINIER DES GOURMANDS; OU, LA CUISINE MODERNE. Enseignée d'après les plus grands maîtres par A. Martin, auteur du Bréviaire du Gastronome. Paris: Ch. Froment, 1829. (18mo) pp. 320.

CUISINIER (LE) DE TOUT LE MONDE, OU LA CUISINE SANS CUISINIER. Paris: Bureau de l'Encyclopédie, 1835. (18mo) pp. 240.

CUISINIÈRE (LA) BOURGEOISE. Suivie de l'office à l'usage de tous ceux qui se mêlent de dépenses de maisons. A Paris, chez Guillyn, 1746. (12mo) pp. 400. 22^e. édition. Paris: Moronval, 1866.

Audot (Louis-Eustache). LA CUISINIÈRE DE LA CAMPAGNE ET DE LA VILLE. Paris: Audot, 1818. (12mo) pp. 248. Do. 1887. 65th édition. Do., 1902. 400 illustrations. (12mo) pp. 700.

CUISINIÈRE (NOUVELLE) CANADIENNE. Montréal, 1865. (18mo.)

Ebert (Jenny-Lena). LA CUISINIÈRE SUISSE. Nouveau manuel de cuisine bernoise pour la ville et la campagne. Berne: R. Jenni, 1871. (8vo.)

Breteuil (Jules). LE CUISINIER EUROPÉEN. Ouvrage contenant les Meilleures Recettes des Cuisines Française et Etrangère. Paris: Garnier Frères, 1860. (12mo.)

La Varenne. LE CUISINIER FRANÇOIS; OU, L'ECOLE DES RAGOÛTS. Où est enseigné la manière d'apprêter toutes sortes de viandes, de pâtisseries et confitures. Par le Sieur de la Varenne, écuyer de cuisine de M. le Marquis d'Uxelles. A Lyon, 1699. (12mo.)

Garlin, de Tonnere. LE CUISINIER MODERNE; OÙ LES SECRETS DE L'ART CULINAIRE. Menus--Haute Cuisine--Pâtisserie--Glaces--Office, etc. Suivi d'un Dictionnaire Complet des Termes Techniques. Paris: Garnier Frères, 1887. 2 vols. (4to), pp. xliv, 278, 357.

Carême (A.). LE CUISINIER PARISIEN; OU, L'ART DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE AU DIX-NEUVIÈME SIÈCLE, ETC., ETC. Paris, l'Auteur, 1828. (8vo) pp. 422.

Place (Charles). DE L'ALIMENTATION DES CLASSES OUVRIÈRES. Choix, conservation et préparation hygiénique et économique des substances alimentaires. Bruxelles: Philippe Hen, 1859. (12mo) pp. 166.

Moynier (M. M.). DE LA TRUFFE: TRAITÉ COMPLET DE CE TUBERCULE, ETC., ETC. Paris: Barba; Legrand et Bourgougnioux, 1836. (8vo) pp. 404.

DÉLICES (LES) DE LA CAMPAGNE. Suitte du Jardinier François où est Enseigné à Préparer pour l'Usage de la Vie tout ce qui croist sur la Terre & dans les Eaux. Dédié aux Dames Mesnagères. A Paris, chez Pierre des-Hayes, 1654. (12mo) pp. 384.

DESSERT (LE) DU GASTRONOME, CHANSONNIER DES AMATEURS DE LA TABLE. A Paris, chez Tiger, s. d. (16mo.)

Burnet. DICTIONNAIRE DE CUISINE ET D'ECONOMIE MÉNAGÈRE. A l'usage des Maîtres et Maîtresses de Maison, Fermiers, Maîtres d'Hôtel, Chefs de Cuisine, Chefs d'Office, Restaurateurs, Pâtissiers, etc. Par M. Burnet, ex-officier de bouche. Paris, à la Librairie Usuelle, 1836. (8vo) pp. 788.

Le Page (Auguste). LES DÎNERS ARTISTIQUES ET LITTÉRAIRES DE PARIS. Paris: Frinzine, Klein et C^{ie}, 1884. (12mo) pp. 360.

Gardeton (César). LE DIRECTEUR DES ESTOMACS; OÙ, INSTRUCTION PRATIQUE SUR LA NATURE, LES QUALITÉS ET LES PROPRIÉTÉS DE CHAQUE ESPÈCE D'ALIMENTS. Paris: Pillet aîné, 1827. (18mo) pp. 248.

Buc'hoz (J. P.). DISSERTATION SUR LE COCHON. Paris, l'Auteur, 1789. (Folio.)

L'ECOLE PARFAITE DES OFFICIERS DE BOUCHE QUI ENSEIGNE LES DEVOIRS DU MAÎTRE-D'HÔTEL ET DU SOMMELIER, ETC. Huitième édition. A Paris, chez Pierre Ribon, 1716. (12mo) pp. 507.

Husson (C.). ETUDE SUR LES EPICES, AROMATES, CONDIMENTS, SAUCES ET ASSAISONNEMENTS: LEUR HISTOIRE, LEUR UTILITÉ, LEUR DANGER. Paris: Dunod, 1883. (8vo) pp. 350.

FESTIN JOYEUX; OÙ, LA CUISINE EN MUSIQUE, EN VERS LIBRES. A Paris, chez Lesclapart Père, 1738. (12mo.)

GARGANTUINA (LE NOUVEAU); OÙ, LE GASTRONOME DES GASTRONOMES. Recueil amusant et curieux sur les plus fameux Gastronomes de France et de tous les autres pays, etc., etc. Paris: Chassaignon, 1839. (12mo) pp. 110.

Fos (Léon de). GASTRONOMANIA. Proverbes--Aphorismes--Préceptes et Anecdotes en Vers, précédés de Notes relatives à l'Histoire de la Table. Paris: Rouquette, 1870. (18mo) pp. 169.

GASTRONOME (LE) FRANÇAIS; OÙ, L'ART DE BIEN VIVRE. Par les anciens Auteurs du Journal des Gourmands, MM. G. D. L. R***, D. D***, Gastermann, G***, Clytophon, Charles Sartrouville, C. L. C***, C***, Marie de Saint-Ursin, B***, etc. Paris: Charles-Béchet, 1828. (8vo) pp. 503.

GASTRONOME (LE MANUEL DU); OÙ, NOUVEL ALMANACH DES GOURMANDS. Paris: Lébige, 1830. (3½ x 6 in.) pp. 246.

GASTRONOMIANA; OU, RECUEIL CURIEUX ET AMUSANT D'ANECDOTES, BONS MOTS, PLAISANTERIES, MAXIMES ET RÉFLEXIONS GASTRONOMIQUES. Précédé d'une Dissertation Historique sur la Science de la Gueule. Paris: Librairie Economique, 1809. (18mo) pp. 175.

Berchoux (J. de). LA GASTRONOMIE. Poème en Quatre Chants publiée avec une Notice et des Notes par Félix Desvernay. Paris: Librairie des Bibliophiles, 1876. (18mo) pp. 87.

Gardeton (César). LA GASTRONOMIE POUR RIRE; OU, ANECDOTES, RÉFLEXIONS, MAXIMES ET FOLIES GOURMANDES SUR LA BONNE CHÈRE, LES INDIGESTIONS, LE VIN, LES IVROGNES, LES BUVEURS D'EAU, LES GOURMANDS, LA GOURMANDISE, LES CUISINIERS, LES ALIMENS, LES BOISSONS, ETC. Paris: J. G. Dentu, 1827. (18mo) pp. 281.

GASTRONOMIE (LA), REVUE DE L'ART CULINAIRE ANCIEN ET MODERNE. Redigé par une Société de Gens de Lettres et de Gastronomes formés à l'Ecole de Grimod de la Reynière et de Brillat-Savarin. Paris, 1839-1841. (Periodical, 59 numbers published.)

Dumas (Alexandre). GRAND DICTIONNAIRE DE CUISINE. Paris: Alphonse Lamerre, 1873. (8vo) pp. 1152.

Desnoiresterres (Gustave). GRIMOD DE LA REYNIÈRE ET SON GROUPPE. D'Après des documents entièrement inédits. Paris: Librairie Académique, Didier et C^{ie}, 1877. (12mo) pp. 399.

Nicolardot (Louis). HISTOIRE DE LA TABLE. Curiosités Gastronomiques de Tous les Temps et de Tous les Pays. Paris: E. Dentu, 1868. (12mo) pp. xxiv, 435.

Verdot (C.). HISTORIOGRAPHIE DE LA TABLE; OU, ABRÉGÉ HISTORIQUE, PHILOSOPHIQUE, ANECDOTIQUE ET LITTÉRAIRE DES SUBSTANCES ALIMENTAIRES ET DES OBJETS QUI LEUR SONT RELATIFS, DES PRINCIPALES FÊTES, MŒURS, USAGES ET COUTUMES DE TOUS LES PEUPLES ANCIENS ET MODERNES. Deuxième édition. Paris, chez l'Auteur, 1833. (18mo) pp. 384.

Gaubert. HYGIÈNE DE LA DIGESTION. Suivi d'un nouveau dictionnaire des alimens par le Dr. Paul Gaubert, de la Légion d'Honneur, etc. Paris, 1845. (8vo) pp. 552.

Porte (Dr. J. P. A. de la). HYGIÈNE DE LA TABLE. Traité du choix des aliments dans leurs rapports avec la santé. Paris: F. Savy, 1870. (Large 8vo) pp. 516.

La Reynière (Grimod de). JOURNAL DES GOURMANDS ET DES BELLES; OU, L'EPICURIEN FRANÇAIS. Rédigé par l'auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands, etc. Paris: Capelle et Renaud, 1806.

Loire (Louis). LES JOYEUX PROPOS DE TABLE. Anecdotes--bons mots--traits plaisants--boutades entremêlées de curieuses recettes culinaires recueillis par Louis Loire. Paris: E. Dentu, 1879. (18mo) pp. 216.

Gouffé (Jules). LE LIVRE DE CUISINE. Par Jules Gouffé, ancien officier de bouche du Jockey Club de Paris, comprenant la Cuisine de Ménage et la grande Cuisine. Cinquième édition. Paris: Hachette et C^{ie}, 1881. (Tall 8vo) pp. 864. Do. Hachette et C^{ie}, 1902. pp. 760.

Gouffé (Jules). LE LIVRE DE PÂTISSERIE. Paris: Hachette et C^{ie}, 1873. (Tall 8vo) pp. 506.

Seignobos (Mme.). LE LIVRE DES PETITS MÉNAGES. Ouvrage contenant 206 gravures. Paris, Hachette, 1894. (12mo) pp. 474.

Taillevent (Guillaume Tirel). LE LIVRE DE TAILLEVENT, GRAND CUISINIER DE FRANCE. Suivi du livre de honneste volupté, contenant la manière d'habiller toute sorte de viandes--le tout revue nouvellement. Lyon: pour Pierre Rigaud, 1602. (l6mo.)

Fournier (Edouard). LIVRE D'OR DES MÉTIERS. Histoire des hôtelleries, cabarets, hôtels garnis, restaurants et cafés et des anciennes communautés et confréries d'hôteliers, des marchands de vins, de restaurateurs, de limonadiers, etc., etc. Paris, 1851. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 348, 410.

Najac (Emile de). MADAME EST SERVIE. Paris: E. Dentu, 1874. (18mo) pp. 284.

Carême (A.). LE MAÎTRE-D'HÔTEL FRANÇAIS; OU, PARALLÈLE DE LA CUISINE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Paris: Firmin-Didot, 1822. 2 vols. (8vo).

MANUEL DE LA CUISINIÈRE PROVENÇALE. Contenant la Préparation et la Conservation des Aliments particuliers à la Provence; suivi de la Cuisine bourgeoise. Marseille: Chauffard, 1858. (12mo) pp. 276.

MANUEL (LE) DE LA FRIANDISE; OU, LES TALENTS DE MA CUISINIÈRE ISABEAU MIS EN LUMIÈRE. Contenant l'Art de faire soi-même une excellente Cuisine, et de manger de bons morceaux sans faire trop dépense, etc. Par l'Auteur du petit cuisinier économe. A Paris, chez Janet, 1796. (18mo) pp. xxxviii, 264.

Martin (Alexandre). MANUEL DE L'AMATEUR DE MELONS; OU, L'ART DE RECONNAÎTRE ET D'ACHETER DE BONS MELONS. Précédé d'une histoire de ce fruit, avec un traité sur sa culture, etc. Paris: Aug. Udron, 1827. (18mo) pp. 156.

Martin (Alexandre). MANUEL DE L'AMATEUR DES TRUFFES; OU, L'ART D'OBTENIR DES TRUFFES. Au moyen des plants artificiels, dans les parcs, bosquets, jardins, etc., etc., précédé d'une histoire de la truffe et d'anecdotes gourmandes, et suivi d'un traité sur la culture des champignons. Seconde édition. Paris: Leroi; Audin, 1829 (18mo) pp. xii, 143.

La Reynière (Grimod de). MANUEL DES AMPHITRYONS. Contenant un Traité de la Dissection des Viandes à Table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus Nouveaux pour chacque Saison, et des Elemens de Politesse Gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de planches gravées en taille-douce. A Paris, chez Capelle et Renand, 1808. (8vo) pp. 384.

Cardelli (M.). MANUEL DES GOURMANDS; OU, L'ART DE FAIRE LES HONNEURS DE SA TABLE. Paris: Librairie Roret. s. d. (18mo).

Courchamps (Maurice Cousin, Comte de). NÉO-PHYSIOLOGIE DU GOÛT PAR ORDRE ALPHABÉTIQUE; OU, DICTIONNAIRE GÉNÉRAL DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Enrichi de plusieurs menus, prescriptions culinaires, et autres opuscules inédits de M. de la Reynière, auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands; suivi d'une collection générale des menus français depuis le douzième siècle. Paris, 1839. (8vo) pp. 635. (Dumas' favourite work on cookery.)

Périgord (A. B. de). NOUVEL ALMANACH DES GOURMANDS. Paris: Bandouin Frères, 1825. (8vo) pp. xxiv, 224.

Cardelli (M.). NOUVEL MANUEL COMPLET DU CUISINIER ET DE LA CUISINIÈRE À L'USAGE DE LA VILLE ET DE LA CAMPAGNE. Nouvelle Edition. Paris: Librairie Roret, 1818. (18mo) pp. 472.

Briffault (Eugène). PARIS À TABLE. Illustré par Bertall. Paris: J. Hetzel, 1846. (8vo) pp. 184.

PASTISSIER (LE) FRANÇOIS. Où est enseigné la manière de faire toute sorte de Pastisserie, très-utile à toutes sortes de personnes. A Amsterdam, chez Louys et Daniel Elzevier, 1654. (12mo) pp. 252.

Carême (A.). LE PÂTISSIER PITTORESQUE, ETC., ETC. Nouvelle édition. Paris, au Dépôt de la Librairie, 1854. (8vo) pp. 56.

Carême (A.). LE PÂTISSIER ROYAL PARISIEN; OU, TRAITÉ ELÉMENTAIRE ET PRATIQUE DE LA PATISSERIE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Paris: J. G. Dentu, 1815. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 482, 447.

Brisse (Baron). LA PETITE CUISINE. 3^{ème} Edition. Paris: E. Donnaud, 1875. (18mo) pp. 429.

Geair (Mlle. J.). LA PETITE CUISINIÈRE BOURGEOISE, AVEC RENSEIGNEMENTS UTILES AUX FAMILLES. Par Mlle. Julie Geair, professeur. Paris, impr. Barnagaud, 1889. (16mo) pp. 738.

Brillat-Savarin. PHYSIOLOGIE DU GOÛT; OU, MÉDITATIONS DE GASTRONOMIE TRANSCENDANTE. Ouvrage théorique, historique et à l'ordre du jour, dédié aux gastronomes parisiens, par un professeur, membre de plusieurs sociétés littéraires et savantes. Paris: A. Sautelet et C^{ie}, 1826. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 390, 422. (First edition of the "Physiologie.")

Delveau (Alfred). LES PLAISIRS DE PARIS. Guide pratique et illustré. Paris: Achille Faure, 1867. (16mo) pp. 299.

PROMENADE GASTRONOMIQUE DANS PARIS. Présentant un tableau fidèle, anecdotique et comique des faits et gestes des cuisiniers et cuisinières de tous les étages, ainsi que des traiteurs, restaurateurs, consommateurs, etc. Par un Amateur. Paris: Librairie Orientale de Dondey-Dupré, 1833. (18mo) pp. 171.

Reiber (Emile). LES PROPOS DE TABLE DE LA VIEILLE ALSACE. Illustrés tout au long de Dessins originaux des anciens Maîtres alsaciens. Paris: chez Launette, 1886. (4to) pp. xvi, 231.

Rouvière. QUELQUES CONSEILS SUR L'HYGIÈNE DU CUISINIER. Par F. Rouvière, restaurateur. Bordeaux, impr. J. Durand, 1886. (18mo) pp. 108.

Chavette (Eugène). RESTAURATEURS ET RESTAURÉS. Dessins par Cham. Paris: A. Le Chevalier, 1867. (16mo) pp. 126.

Cauderlier. LA SANTÉ PAR LES ALIMENTS. Pour vivre de 50 à 80 ans et plus. Gand: Imprimerie de Léon de Busscher, 1882. (8vo) pp. 304.

Gogué. LES SECRETS DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE. Par A. Gogué, ancien chef des cuisines du Comte Ducayla, de Lord Melville, etc. Ouvrage illustré de 45 gravures sur bois par Rouyer. Paris, Librairie Hachette, 1856. (12mo) pp. 438.

LES SOUPERS DE LA COUR; OU, L'ART DE TRAVAILLER TOUTES SORTES D'ALIMENS POUR SERVIR LES MEILLEURS TABLES, SUIVANT LES QUATRE SAISONS. A Paris, chez Guillyn, 1755. 4 vols. (12mo).

Staffe (B^{onne}). TRADITIONS CULINAIRES ET L'ART DE MANGER TOUTES CHOSES À TABLE. Paris, Havard, 1896. (12mo) pp. 400.

Bontou. TRAITÉ DE CUISINE BOURGEOISE BORDELAISE. Bordeaux: Feret et Fils, 1898. (12mo) pp. 682.

Ferry de la Bellone (De). LA TRUFFE: ETUDE SUR LES TRUFFES ET LES TRUFFIÈRES. Paris: J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888. (16mo.)

Chatillon-Plessis. LA VIE À TABLE À LA FIN DU XIX^C. SIÈCLE. Theorie pratique et historique de Gastronomie moderne, etc. Paris: Librairie de Firmin-Didot et C^{ie}, 1894. (8vo) pp. 411.

Franklin (Alfred). LA VIE PRIVÉE D'AUTREFOIS ...LES REPAS. Paris: Plon, Nourrit et C^{ie}, 1887. (18mo) pp. 300.

INDEX

"Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, 99

Ahasuerus (King), feast of, 12

Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, 69, 70, 129

Aldergrove (John), on game, 354

"Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 70;
referred to, 73, 112 _et seq._, 157, 184, 233, 336;
its purpose, 132;
aphorisms of, 138-139.
_Vide_ also "G. de la Reynière"

"Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, 225

"Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, 258

Alsace, excellence of its cooks, 149

"Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," 148-150

Angelica, 434

Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, 102

"Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, 336

Apicius, as a cook, 29;
referred to, 40, 41, 50, 200

Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, 255

Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
anecdote of a Swiss guard, 218;
anecdote of a French drummer, 218;
anecdote of an English chaplain, 288

Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, 13

"Art Culinaire (L')," 121, 347, 408

"Art de Diner en Ville (L')," 76

"Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," 206

"Art du Cuisinier (L')," 71-72

Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, 68

"Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, 107-111, 316

"Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, 93, 344

"Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, 319;
Abraham Hayward's, 331 _et seq._

Arts (the) and their masters, 131

Athenæus, quoted, 8, 13, 16, 18, 21-23

Attendance, importance of perfect, 321

Audubon, on game, 362, 363, 370

Autumn, glories of, 373 _et seq._, 398

"Avalanche" (the), of Carême, 200

Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, 130

Baba, its history and virtues, 434

Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, 212

Bakers, the art of the German, 146, 171

Baking, an ancient form of cooking, 10

Balzac, quoted, 5, 351;
referred to, 177;
as a gastronomer, 219

Banquets, early English, 90, 91

Banville (Théodore de), quoted, 227;
referred to, 341, 445

Baron Brisse, quoted, 32, 180, 344, 371, 405, 417;
as a gastronomer, 227-228;
his splendid gastronomic axiom, 228

Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, 65

Baryé, referred to, 246

Basting, importance of, 228

Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, 445

Beauvilliers, referred to, 6, 69, 70, 199, 202, 213, 386, 435;
quoted, 71, 110, 234, 442

Béchamel, referred to, 54-55

Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, 436

Beef, baron of, a royal dish, 92;
sirloin of, its origin, 99

Beer, quotation in praise of, 145

Beer-gardens, German, 151 _et seq._

Beers, of Germany, 163-164, 168

Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, 390, 395

Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, 283-284

Béranger, poem on the restaurant, 140

Berchoux, referred to, 58, 72, 184;
his poem on gastronomy, 73 _et seq._, 385

Bernard (Gentil), referred to, 73

Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, 129

Beverages, importance of, 4;
their relation to national cookery, 151-152, 163-164

Bignon, anecdotes of, 342-343

Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, 304

Blaze de Bury, on women, 433

Blot (Pierre), 435

Boar, the wild, 26, 39, 234, 236, 243, 246-247, 366

Boar's-head, carols on the, 91, 93

Boileau, axiom on punctuality, 269

Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, 11

"Boke of Keruynge," quoted, 85-87

"Boke of Nurture," quoted, 84-85

Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, 76

Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous _mot_, 284

Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, 232

Bramble (Mathew), referred to, 324

Bratwurst-Glöcklein, 163

Breadstuffs, the first, 7;
used by the early English, 83

Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, 253-255

Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, 288

Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, 445

Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, 400

Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," 292

Bubble and Squeak, 278

Buckland (Frank), referred to, 243

Buffon, anecdote of, 385

Bulwer, on the fox, 161

Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, 44

Café (_vide_ also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, 6, 52, 213,
220, 258;
Voisin, referred to, 52;
Hardy, referred to, 52, 69, 220;
Riche, referred to, 52, 220, 250;
Véfour, referred to, 213, 258;
de Paris, referred to, 214, 219, 220, 221, 222, 258;
its great vogue in the '40's, 219;
Anglais, referred to, 220, 258;
Philippe, referred to, 258

Caligula, referred to, 43

Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, 69, 205;
referred to, 195

Camerani (M.), referred to, 129

Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306

Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, 169

Carême, referred to, 13, 70, 194, 199-207, 211, 223, 229, 348-349,
350, 385, 408, 443;
eulogy of, 207

Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306, 308

Carver, Vatel's definition of a, 60

Carving, importance of, 87, 138;
a novel monastic method of, 307

"Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, 238

Cèpes. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"

Charles II, as an epicure, 99

Châteauroux (Duchesse de), 63

Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, 265

Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, 146;
German varieties of, 167;
its proper place at dinner, 263;
its place and mission at dinner, 440

Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, 417

Civet of hare, 51

Claré, 96

Claudius, his great dining-room, 43

Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, 90;
table excesses of, in old Alsace, 149.
_Vide_ also individual references

Climate _vs._ alimentation, 168, 270, 334

Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," 336

"Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, 80

Cocktail, physiology of the, 196

Coffee, remote use of, 9

Colbert, referred to, 55

"Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, 98, 106, 109

"Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, 103

Compots, 157, 174, 432

Condé (Prince de), referred to, 54, 58, 60

Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, 159

Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52;
Berchoux's reference to a, 74;
importance of a good, 113;
attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207;
anecdote of a new, 259;
anecdote of a, 393

Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446

Cook-books, early Italian, 49;
early Spanish, 50;
early French, 52;
early English, 81 _et seq._, 317;
17th-century English, 93 _et seq._;
old German, 147-148, 150;
modern (_vide_ specific references), written by the clergy, 281

Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258,
286, 430;
modern progress in, 4;
_vs._ matrimony, 6;
Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195;
compared to painting, 6, 203;
in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9;
of the ancient Persians, 11, 12;
of the ancient Greeks, 13 _et seq._;
of the ancient Sicilians, 14;
of the ancient Romans, 24 _et seq._;
period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25;
decline of ancient, 48;
_vs._ literature and art, 48;
the renaissance of, 49 _et seq._;
of Spain, 50,423;
its relation to the mind, 64, 176;
_vs._ diplomacy, 70;
home _vs._ the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429;
cry of its decadence, 79, 258;
Parisian school of, in England, 99;
of the English rural classes, 101, 102;
modern English, 111, 269 _et seq._;
importance of good writers on, 113, 199;
period of its greatest distinction in France, 116;
complementary to national beverages, 151, 153;
excellence of German, 156, 174;
Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201;
of America, 249 _et seq._;
of the modern French, 259 (_vide_ also special references);
its relation to the church, 280 _et seq._;
a difficult art, 442.
_Vide_ also "Gastronomy"

Cooking-schools, 251, 260

Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202;
regulating the health of, 136

"Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 _et seq._

Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62

Cucumber, remote use of, 9;
its virtues, 425

Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258

Cuisine classique (the), 200

"Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203;
referred to, 206, 349

Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192

Curé, anecdote of a, 293

Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305;
quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408

Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245

Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339

De Candolle, referred to, 256

Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144

Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112

"Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59

Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71

De Quincey on midday dining, 146

"De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50

Désaugiers, poem on women, 119

Dessert, its mission defined, 430;
etymology of the term, 438

Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329

Dinner, hours of, 83;
a good one, a simple one, 116, 320, 322, 324;
punctuality at, 126, 269, 291, 318, 319;
a wineless, 127, 263-266, 294, 295;
inhuman hours of, 145-146, 150;
its true hygienic hour, 146, 268, 269;
Savarin's definition of a perfect, 190;
Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, 200;
Dumas' definition of a good, 213;
of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
the Sunday engorgement, 266;
evils of the "theatre", 267;
a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, 299;
by the Ettrick Shepherd, 309;
by Thackeray, 315;
by Kitchener, 318;
by the Earl of Dudley, 320;
French definition of a perfect, 320;
importance of variety in the bill of fare, 329;
the graceful liar as an adjunct to, 331;
Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, 336

Dinners, poor "company," 126, 261, 321, 329;
ministerial, 195;
similarity of, 195, 325, 328;
false etiquette of, 331

"Dinners and Diners," 337-339

Dish, the first recorded, 7

Dishes, new, 72, 353, 380;
testing of, 135;
Hungarian, 167;
abuse of certain, 261

Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, 310

Domitian, referred to, 43

Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, 283

Don Quixote, referred to, 50

"Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, 340

Douw (Gérard), referred to, 197

Drayton (Michael), quoted, 360

Dreams, viands provocative of, 197

Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, 31

Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, 62

Dubufe, referred to, 234

Duck, wild, the art of carving a, 87;
"When Father carves the" (poem), 87;
canvasback, 249, 369;
canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, 292;
wild, 359, 366, 369

Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, 5, 49, 56, 206, 213, 214, 224, 225, 383;
referred to, 131, 149, 211-225, 321;
as a cook, 211;
as a gastronomer, 221;
anecdote of, as a chef, 222, 223

Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, 5

Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, 10

Eating, evils of irregular, 267

Egyptians, table appointments of, 10

Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, 345

Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, 232

Emerson, his _mot_ on pies, 437

Emetics, use of, among the ancients, 15

English, meals of the early, 82;
not appreciative of fine cooking, 210, 274

"Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, 222

Epicure, definition of an, 128, 131

"Epicurean (The)," referred to, 353

Epicurus, his maxims, 15

Evelyn (John), on salads, 411

Exercise, virtues of, 75, 378

"Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, 235

Fairy-rings. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"

Fayot (M.), quoted, 3, 5;
referred to, 321

"Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, 343

Fête champêtre. _Vide_ "A shooting jaunt"

Fieldfare, 361

Fig-pecker (the), 44, 192, 361

Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, 26;
days in Elizabeth's era, 90, 308;
omelettes and pâtés of, 149;
variety and superiority of American, 251;
its complementary wine, 309;
proper cookery of, 368

Flamingo (the), as a table bird, 44

Fletcher (John), quoted, 96

Flint cracker, origin of the, 263

Fouquet, referred to, 54, 55, 58

Francatelli, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 208, 226, 350

France (Anatole), his _mot_ on the pâté de Chartres, 434

Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, 146

Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, 150

Fruit, after dinner, 267

Fruits, the first cultivated, 9;
glass-grown in England, 273;
superiority of those of western New York, 274

Frying, theory of, 179

Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, 310 _et seq._

Game, Savarin's references to, 192, 193, 197;
Anthony Hayward on its cookery, 333;
preservation and protection of, 357-358;
definition of the term, 358;
effect of food upon flavour of, 359-360, 362-363, 370;
proper wines to accompany, 372;
species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of,
_Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"

Garum, of the ancients, 46

Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, 120;
as an epicure, 130

Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, 442-446

Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, 190

Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, 13;
Berchoux's poem on, 73-76, 184;
as defined by M. de Borose, 81;
as defined by La Reynière, 128;
French _vs._ German, 145, 151, 152;
finesse of its ethics, 157-158;
one of the most important arts, 176;
as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," 184;
as defined by Savarin, 184;
cry of its decadence, 194;
its mainspring the pig, 229 _et seq._;
as promoted by the religious orders, 285 _et seq._, 335;
in relation to sauces, 345;
St. Ange's disquisition on, 378-381;
in relation to sport, 354, 356, 445.
_Vide_ also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references

Gavarni, his _mot_ on the mushroom, 407

Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, 153, 174

Gérard (Charles), referred to, 148-150

Gerarde, quoted, 256, 400, 411

Gibson (W. Hamilton), 406, 407

Glacer à la flamme, 203

Glatigny (Albert), quoted, 63, 341

Gluttony, as defined by woman, 343

Goethe, referred to, 147, 430;
poem on game, 169

Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, 108

Gonthier (Johann), referred to, 52

Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, 381

Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, 156;
in Strassburg and Alsace, 159-161;
and applesauce, 244

"Goret (La Mort du)," poem, 232

Gouffé (Jules), referred to, 199, 225-226, 227, 229, 445

Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, 127-128

Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, 186;
_vs._ beauty, 187;
Gérard (Charles), quoted, 199

Gout, 143, 270, 346, 444;
prevalence of, among the ancients, 46;
prevalence of in England, 96, 102;
_vs._ pâté de foie gras, 162

Grace before meat, 291, 297

Graces, the three spirituous, 196

"Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, 173

"Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," 211 _et seq._

Greeks, meals of the ancient, 19;
gluttony of the ancient, 23

Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, 239

Grog, origin of the word, 97

Grouse, ruffed, 356, 359, 364, 366, 370, 375, 376, 411;
pinnated, or prairie-chicken, 363, 365

Hafiz, quoted, 423

Hagenmark, 432

Hamerton, referred to, 243

"Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, 110

Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, 101

Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, 168

Hayward (Abraham), referred to, 331 _et seq._

Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, 288

Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, 152

Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, 46-48;
inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, 48

Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, 430

Herodotus, quoted, 10

Herrick, quoted, 79, 102

Herring, the "marinirte," 167

Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, 333

Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, 233

Hippocras, 57, 93, 94, 96

Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, 150

Hollar, quoted, 358

Homer, quoted, 20

Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, 435

Hood (Thomas), referred to, 316

Horace, quoted, 11, 26, 39, 40, 113, 398;
referred to, 38, 39;
his fondness for sweets, 428-429

Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, 139;
_vs._ guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, 228;
his duty to his guests, 264-265, 330-331

Housewife, troubles of the, 260

Hugo (Victor), referred to, 341

Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, 239

Ice-cream, discoverer of, 434

Indian summer, poem on, 373

Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, 133

Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, 289;
quoted, 280, 291, 306, 438

Jacque (Charles), referred to, 233, 245

Janin (Jules), referred to, 5, 211, 213, 348, 445

Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, 287

Johnson (Dr.), quoted, 111, 248

Jordaens, referred to, 6

Jury dégustateur (the), 120 _et seq._

Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40;
quoted, 37, 42

"Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90

Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309

King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279

Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106

Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174

"Kuchenmeisterey," 171

La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380

Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211

La Fontaine, referred to, 116

Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202

Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, 430;
his apology to the pig, 240

Lampridius, quoted, 47

Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281

La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 _et seq._,
178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443;
poem of, 117;
quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411;
his home kitchen, 131, 132;
as a gastronomer, 132;
denounced by Savarin, 158;
his tribute to Savarin, 177.
_Vide_ also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"

La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5

Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172

Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335

Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331

Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285

"Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225

Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7

Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53;
XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 _et seq._;
XV, as a gastronomer, 61;
XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78

Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43;
referred to, 45, 200, 201

Luncheon, an ideal woodland, 375 _et seq._

Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, 149

Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120

Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220

Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169

Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39

Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394

Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, 161;
his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309

Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 67, 63, 340

Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204

"Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," 206

"Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69;
referred to, 93-95

Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95;
quoted, 409

Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351

Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44;
referred to, 37, 38, 40

Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252

Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311

Mead, its composition, 97

Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433

Melons, 9, 273, 298

"Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271

"Memorials of Gormandizing," 329

Metheglin, 96, 98, 439

Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166

Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126

Mind _vs._ stomach, 5

Mistletoe-thrush, 361

"Modern Cook (The)," 208

Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163

Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113

Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264;
referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340

Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414;
referred to, 147, 283

Montauron (Seigneur de), 54

Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55

Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63

Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424

Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304

Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62;
quoted, 200

Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64

Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396

Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311

Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47;
origin of the name, 33

Murger (Henri), referred to, 341

Mushrooms, 362;
species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of,
397-408

Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219

Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380

Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61

Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40

Nero, his _Domus aurea_, 43

Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200

North, (Christopher), 309, 316

"Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220

Nudels, 167

Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391

Oil and vinegar, 415-416

"Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275

Olive-oil, remote use of, 8

Olla podrida, 50;
en grande, 50

Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302

Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295

Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9;
tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387

"Original (The)," 319 _et seq._

Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258

Ortolans, 76, 361

Ostade, referred to, 74, 445

Oudry, referred to, 234

Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202

Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27

Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89;
superiority of American, 252

Pain perdu, 89

Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245;
Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445;
French school of, 246

"Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209

Papabotte (the), 362-363

Parkinson (John), 81, 411

Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231

Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138;
Carême's definition of, 202

Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397;
La Reynière's account of a, 123;
its history, 159;
d'écrevisses, 203;
de Chartres, 434

"Pâtissier français (Le)," 59

Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342

Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252

Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417

Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101

Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50

Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28

Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77

"Petite Cuisine (La)," 227

Petrarch, on wine, 293

Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37

Pheasant (the), 289, 359

Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61

"Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106

Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267

"Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 _et seq._,
206, 351, 395.
_Vide_ also "Savarin"

Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273;
a game, 372

Pies, 249, 430 _et seq._;
wild boar, 89;
strange early English, 95

Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, 67;
of Westphalia and Rothenburg, 164;
as a factor of gastronomy, 229 _et seq._;
"Dissertation sur le Cochon," 231;
"Gli Elogi del Porco," 231;
M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, 232;
Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, 232;
Monselet's eulogy of, 232;
Southey's eulogy of, 232;
La Reynière's eulogies of, 233, 236;
Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, 233;
Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, 235, 238;
the Southern razorback, 235, 306;
fondness for truffles, 236, 389;
Leigh Hunt's essay on, 239;
Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, 240;
as a retriever of game, 244;
a German eulogy of, 244;
his influence upon the polite arts, 245-246;
"Rôti-Cochon," 261, 414

"Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," 239

Planked shad, origin of, 253 _et seq._

Pliny, quoted, 31;
referred to, 40, 384, 395

Plover, upland or grass, 361 _et seq._

Plum-porridge, 435

Plum-pudding, and history of, 334, 434-435

Pompadour (Marquise de), 63

Pope, quoted, 83, 103

Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, 17;
origin of, 230

Pork-pie, 89

Porridge, use of, by the ancients, 24

Potato, history of the, 255-256, 306

Potatoes, in England, 272, 330

Pot-au-feu, importance of the, 224

Propertius, quoted, 38

Prout (Father). _Vide_ Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential,"
286

Puff-balls. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"

Punch, origin of the word, 97

Punctuality. _Vide_ "Dinner, punctuality at"

Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9

Quail, 363, 365, 366, 375, 382

Recipes
A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426
"A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110
A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109
A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109
Bakewell pudding, 276
Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224
Brook trout (Savarin), 179;
(Baron Brisse's formulas), 180
Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29
Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405
Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, 18
Cock ale, Markham's formula for, 98
"Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, 18
Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327
Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380
Guisado, the Spanish, 51
How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109
How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110
Kalter Aufschnitt, 169
Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276
Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371
Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193
Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224
Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226
Roast goose _à l'allemande_, 157
Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439
Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208;
for green geese and ducklings, 278;
à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352
Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242
"The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302
The hunter's sandwich, 441

Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353

Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300

Reed-birds, 359, 361

Rembrandt, referred to, 6

Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66;
excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342;
Bignon, referred to, 219;
American, 250;
advantage of dining at, 339;
Glatigny's sonnet on, 341;
Bignon's, 341-343;
Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258;
a dinner at, in 1860, 297;
English, 270, 275, 338.
_Vide_ also "Cafés," and specific references

Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171

Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, 339

Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54, 302, 380;
(Maréchal, Duc de), 303, 348

Riquette, referred to, 202

Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220

Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, 120

Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202

Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221;
a celebrated menu of, 140-142

Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150

Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 _et seq._;
meals of the ancient, 27

Ronsard, referred to, 52;
quoted, 79

Roques (Joseph), 408

"Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102

Rubens, referred to, 6, 245

Ruffs and reeves, 335

Ruysdael, referred to, 6

Sack-posset, 96

St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382

Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381

Saint-Simon, quoted, 55

Salad, 362;
virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411;
virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411;
its mission and place at the dinner, 418

Salads, remote use of, 10

Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286

Sandpiper (Bartramian). _Vide_ "Plover" and "Papabotte"

Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304

Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12

Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334;
a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345;
anchovy, 345;
(a good), its qualification, 349

Sauce tartare, a novel, 256

Sauces old English, 84;
best for brook trout, 191;
(Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368;
(English), 277;
merits of, 249, 345;
Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277;
bread, 289, 368;
their relation to gastronomy, 345;
Marquis de Cussy on, 346;
mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421;
à la Schönberg, 352;
a list of, for the home cuisine, 352;
apple, 368;
à la Richelieu, 381

Saucier (the), 346

Sauerkraut, 371;
when invented, 150;
(French), not to be commended, 223

Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423;
German species and varieties of, 163-166

Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443;
denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158;
as a gastronomer, 181, 206;
his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195;
poem of, 197;
quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411.
_Vide_ also "Physiologie du Goût (La)"

Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309

Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30;
used by the English, 83, 108;
importance of, 446

Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46;
referred to, 40, 44

Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200

Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441

Shelley, referred to, 234

Shooting jaunt, a, 375 _et seq._

Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291

Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67

Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182

Smith (Rev. Sydney), his _mot_ on pâté de foie gras, 158;
gastronomic anecdote of, 249;
his _mot_ on the pheasant, 286;
his poem on roast mutton, 290;
on fanatics, 294;
his poem on salad, 412

Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445

Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411

Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130

Solomon, his table, 11

Sora, or rail (the), 360

Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37

Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150;
aux choux, 224;
croûte-au-pot, 224, 275;
Julienne, 281;
first mention of, 281

"Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62

Soups, German, 167

Southey, referred to, 232

Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210

Spartan black broth, 13

Spätzle, 167

Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126

Speisekarte, a typical, 154

Spenser, quoted, 235;
referred to, 238

Sport. _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"

Stimulants, before dinner, 196

Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5;
its offices, 267, 317, 319

Strawberries _vs._ gout, 143, 432

---- ---- ---- (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299

Sweetmeats, 379

Sweet potato, 256

Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89

Tables volantes, 62

Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202

Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388

Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184;
influence of smell on, 182

Teniers, referred to, 6, 445

Tennyson, referred to, 316

Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387;
as a gastronomer, 315, 329;
quoted, 327, 340

Thomson, quoted, 238

Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403

Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43;
as an epicure, 44;
his fondness for cucumbers, 425

Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293

Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283

Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27

Tobacco, introduction of, 28

Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265;
abstinence, poem on, 295

Total abstainers _vs._ guests, 263-266;
brandied peaches, 433

Trimalchio, dinner of, 35

Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181;
of the English chalk-streams, 364;
American _vs._ the European, 365

"Truffe (De la)," 394

"Truffe (La)," 390

Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434;
species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature,
and phenomena of. _Vide_ chapter "Two Esculents par
excellence"

Turbot (the), 33

Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385;
history of the, 304, 305;
wild, 369-370;
wild _vs._ the domestic, 369, 370

Turtle feasts, American, 267

Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207

Uhland, referred to, 163, 166

Ulric (St.), festival of, 308

Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226

Van Mieris, referred to, 197

Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130;
on carving, 59

Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29;
poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272;
importance of good, 330

Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130

Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221;
on the restaurant, 339

Verres, referred to, 43

Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214

Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171

Vincent La Chapelle, 61

Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282

Virgil, referred to, 234

Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44

Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203;
inventor of, 48

Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71

Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213

Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 _et seq._;
as a gastronomer, 326

Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81

Ward (Artemus), his _mot_ on hasty pudding, 134;
his _mot_ on pies, 437

Weenix, referred to, 234, 445

Wheat, original home of, 9

Wheatears, 335, 361

White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272;
quoted, 360

Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387

Whitefish (the), 45

Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40;
of the ancient Romans, 30;
in use in England, 96-98;
difficulty of testing, 135;
German, 168;
of old Alsace, 159;
brut champagne, 262, 431;
importance of good, 262, 264, 265;
champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438;
champagne, its virtues, 283, 379;
their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 _et seq._;
"Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 _et seq._;
importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323;
their relation to game, 356, 372;
to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408;
Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427;
as a medium of hygiene, 444

Woman, jealousy of, 14;
imitating man's excesses, 46;
Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79;
compared to peaches, 119;
as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351;
La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139;
created for the selfish wishes of man, 174;
her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433;
Savarin's references to, 192;
as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378;
a French toast to, 283;
as an adjunct to the dinner, 320;
disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340;
in the eighteenth century, 347;
how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429;
a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351;
Balzac's reference to, 351;
the wise one defined, 351;
_vs._ champagne, 379, 429;
compared to mushrooms, 398;
pretty one should mix a salad, 420;
her relation to cookery, 429;
a foil for man's mistakes, 431;
as a garnish to an omelette, 432;
her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439

Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376

Wordsworth, referred to, 240

Yellowshank (the), 361

Yuan Mei, quoted, 6

FOOTNOTES:

[1] That the onion, garlic, and radish were held in particular esteem is attested by Herodotus, who says in his time (450 B.C.) there was an inscription on the Great Pyramid, stating that a sum amounting to sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of food, which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its erection.

[2] The world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to gastronomy; although the graceful French poet, the Abbé Philippe Desportes, who so celebrated his mistresses Diane, Hypolite and Cléonice in verse, was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by Henry III, and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the Duc de Joyeuse, brother-in-law of the king.

[3] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.

[4] Sir Theodore Martin's transl.

[5] Tobacco, unknown to the ancients, did not come into use among Asiatic and European peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth century, or a long period after the discovery of America--nearly all its species being of American origin. Its name, Nicotiana, was derived from that of John Nicot of Nismes, ambassador from the King of France to Portugal, who procured the first seeds from a Dutchman who had them from Florida.

[6] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.

[7] "My red wing gives me my name; but it is my tongue that is considered savory by epicures. What if my tongue had been able to sing?"--MARTIAL, Epigrams: "The Flamingo."

[8] The Duc de Montausier used to say, _Qu'a sa tenue de convive on reconnaissait un gentilhomme_.

[9] Les Delices de la Campagne. Suitte du Jardinier françois ov est enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la Terre & dans les Eaux. Dedie avx dames Mesnageres. À Paris, chez Pierre Des-Hayes, 1654.

[10] The cause assigned to Vatel's death has been disputed, some having maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish, but because on cooking the fish they were found "not to be so fresh as they might be."

[11] Les Soupers de la Cour, ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes d'alimens. Pour servir les meilleures Tables, suivant les quatre Saisons. A Paris chez Guillyn, Libraire, 1755.

[12] L'Art du Cuisinier, par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de Monsieur, comte de Provence, Attaché aux Extraordinaires des Maisons Royales et actuellement Restaurateur, rue de Richelieu, No. 26 à la grande Taverne de Londres. A Paris, chez Pillet Ainé, 1814, 2 vols.

[13]

Défendez que personne, an milieu d'un banquet, Ne vous vienne donner un avis indiscret; Ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine--Rien ne doit déranger l'honnête homme qui dîne.

[14] L'Art de dîner en ville à l'usage des gens de lettres, poème en iv chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris, Delaunay; Colnet, 1810.

[15] Herrick, "Hesperides."

[16] The English housewife; containing the inward and outward Vertues which ought to be in a compleat Woman; as to her skill in Physicke, Cookery, Ordering of Great Feasts, etc., etc. London, 1631.

[17] Elizabeth Robins Pennell: "The Feasts of Autolycus."

[18] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which far Exceeds Every Thing of the Kind Ever yet Published. By a Lady. London: Printed for the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the Corner of Fleet Ditch.

[19] Almanach des Gourmands, Suivant de Guide Dans Les Moyens de faire excellente Chère; Par Un Viel Amateur. Troisième Edition. Revue, Corrigée et Considérablement Augmentée. A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue Pavés-Saint-André-des-Arcs, 1804, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808. Chez Joseph Chaumerot, Libraire, au Palais Royal, Galeries de Bois, 1810, 1812.

[20] Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant Un Trait de la Dissection des viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour chacque saison, et des Elémens de la Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de Planches gravées en taille-douce. Par l'Auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands. A Paris, Chez Capelle et Renand, MDCCCVIII.

[21] "We shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at M. Tailleur's, in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of all kinds, and each service of which attested the competent master of the alimentary art."

L'ALMANACH, 4^{me} année, p. 152.

[22]

(In depths of Seidels tall we Germans find our power, As did in years agone our ancestors of yore; For in the noble barley-wine there lingers still a might divine.)

[23] L'Ancienne Alsace à Table. Etude Historique et Archéologique sur l'Alimentation, les Mœurs et les Usages Epulaires de l'ancienne Province d'Alsace: par Charles Gérard, Avocat à la Cour Impériale de Colmar. Colmar, Imprimerie et Lithographie de Camille Decker, 1862. Large 8vo, pp. 269.

[24] Diese Zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen Dienstjahre der betr. Kellnerin.

[25] It should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late Rev. Francis Mahony (_requiescat in pace!_). Recalling his scathing stricture on "The Rogueries of Tom Moore," one were unwise not to mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet, for fear that he might arise to wreak summary vengeance. But inasmuch as no authorship is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard, and as one must be on guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice which pervades his pages, it is probable that both the French song and the rendition are by the same accomplished hand.

[26]

"Es lohnet mir heute Mit doppelter Beute Ein gutes Geschick; Der redliche Diener Bringt Hasen und Hühner Zur Küche zurück; Hier find ich gefangen, Auch Vogel noch hangen. Es lebe der Jäger, Es lebe sein Glück!"

[27] The reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their possibilities should compare the "Halts of a Shooting Party" with the chapter entitled "Des Parties de Campagne Gourmandes" in the fourth volume of the "Almanach des Gourmands."

[28] "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, par Alexandre Dumas. Paris, Alphonse Lemerre, Editeur, Passage Choiseul, 1873."

[29] "Propos d'Art et de Cuisine."

[30] Rev. Joseph A. Ely's transl.

[31] "Le Gastronome Français" (1828). G. D. L. R., "De La Truffe."

[32] "Roti-Cochon ou Méthode Très-Facile pour bien apprendre les Enfants a Lire en Latin et en Francais, par des Inscriptions moralement expliquées de plusieurs Representations figurées de différentes choses de leurs connoissances; très utile et meme necessaire, tant pour la vie & le salut, que pour la gloire de Dieu. A Dijon, chez Claude Michard, Imprimeur & Marchand Libraire à Saint Jean l'Evangéliste."

[33] "The English system of cookery it would be impertinent for me to describe; but still, when I think of that huge round of parboiled ox-flesh, with sodden dumplings floating in a saline, greasy mixture, surrounded by carrots looking red with disgust and turnips pale with dismay, I cannot help a sort of inward shudder, and making comparisons unfavourable to English gastronomy."--MEMOIRS OF A STOMACH. Written by Himself. London, 1853.

[34] "Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine," by W. Carew Hazlitt, London, Elliot Stock, 1886.

[35] "Lo Scalco prattico di Vittorio Lancellotti da Camerino All'Illustrissimo, e Reuerendiss. Prencipe il Card. Ippolito Aldobrandino Camerlengo di Santa Chiesa. In _Roma Appresso Francesco Corbelletti_. 1627."

[36] Cardinal Bonnechose, who was most appropriately surnamed, is especially remembered for his bon-mot, "Le clergé est un régiment; il faut qu'il marche."

[37]

Whither, 'midst falling dew, While glow the heavens with the last steps of day, Far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue Thy solitary way?

Vainly the fowler's eye Might mark thy distant flight to do thee wrong, As, darkly painted on the crimson sky, Thy figure floats along....

BRYANT: Lines to a Waterfowl.

[38] Mme. Récamier.

[39]

"Hart an dem Bolsener See, Auf des Flaschenberges Hoh', Steht ein kleiner Leichenstein Mit der kurzen Inschrift drein: _Propter nimium Est, Est, Dominus meus mortuus est!_

"Unter diesem Monument, Welches keinen Namen nennt, Ruht ein Herr von deutschem Blut, Deutschem Schlund und deutschem Mut, Der hier starb den schönsten Tod--Seine Schuld vergeb' ihm Gott!"

[40] "The Cook's Oracle; Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families, etc. The Fourth Edition. London: Printed for A. Constable & Co. 1822."

[41] "The Original, by the Late Thomas Walker, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge. Fifth Edition. Edited by Wm. A. Guy. London, Henry Renshaw, 1875."

[42] "The Art of Dining, or Gastronomy and Gastronomers. London: John Murray, Albemarle Street, 1852." 12mo, pp. 137.

[43] "Dinners and Diners, Where and How to Dine in London. By Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis. A New Enlarged and Revised Edition. London: Grant Richards, 1901." Chapters LIII, pp. 376.

[44] "L'Hygiene des Hommes livrés aux Travaux de l'Esprit."

[45] "The Feasts of Autolycus--The Diary of a Greedy Woman. Edited by Elizabeth Robins Pennell. London: John Lane. New York: The Merriam Co. 1896."

[46] _Coulis_--a thick gravy, and also a term formerly applied to the fundamental sauces.

[47] "L'Art Culinaire."

[48] "All the entrées having the name Bayonnaises (a corrupt term for Mahonnoise) were the invention of the Maréchal, Duc de Richelieu."--MANUEL DES AMPHITRYONS.

[49] The recipes for sauce _à la Richelieu_ and Francatelli's sauce are presented respectively in the following and in a previous chapter.

[50] "Those which feed much on cantharides require to be very carefully cleaned, otherwise persons eating them are liable to suffer severely. Several gentlemen of New Orleans have assured me that they have seen persons at dinner obliged to leave the room at once, under such circumstances as cannot well be described."--AUDUBON: The Birds of America.

[51] "La Petite-Cuisine."

[52] "I have not defined the truffle as yet, but the definition of this _subterranean mushroom which embraces within its outer covering the sporangiums filled until spores subsequently destined to reproduce it_, is the result of all I have said."--IBID.: La Truffe. Etude sur les Truffes et les Truffières. Par le Dr. C. de Ferry de la Bellone, Ancien Président de la Société de Médecine de Vaucluse, Président du Comice Agricole, etc., etc. Paris, Librairie J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888. 8vo, pp. 312.

[53] "De la Truffe, Traite Complet de ce Tubercle, contenant sa Description et son Histoire Naturelle la plus détaillée, son Exploitation Commerciale et sa Position dans l'Art Culinaire; suivi d'une Quatrième Partie contenant les meilleurs moyens d'employer les truffes en apprêts culinaires; les meilleures méthodes d'en faire des conserves certaines; les indications, recettes et moyens les plus positifs et les plus compliqués stir tout ce qui concerne cette substance; par M. M. Moynier. Paris, Barba. 1836." pp. 400.

[54] "Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms, and How to Distinguish Them. A Selection of Thirty Native Food Varieties Easily Recognizable by Their Marked Individualities, with Simple Rules for the Identification of Poisonous Species. By W. Hamilton Gibson. With Thirty Colored Plates and Fifty-seven Other Illustrations by the Author. New York, Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1895."

[55] "Annual Report of the State Botanist of the State of New York. Made to the Regents of the University, Pursuant to Chapter 355 of the Laws of 1883. By Charles H. Peck. Albany, James B. Lyon, Publisher, 1895. Second Edition, 1897."

[56] "Studies of American Fungi, Mushrooms Edible, Poisonous, etc. By George Francis Atkinson, Professor of Botany in Cornell University and Botanist of the Cornell University Experiment Station, Author of 'Studies and Illustrations of Mushrooms,' 'Biology of Ferns,' 'Elementary Botany,' 'Lessons in Botany.' With a Chapter on Recipes for Cooking Mushrooms, by Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer; on the Chemistry and Toxicology of Mushrooms, by J. F. Clark; on the Structural Characters of Mushrooms, by H. Hasselbring. With 200 Photographs by the Author, and Coloured Plates by F. R. Rathbun. Ithaca, N. Y.: Andrus and Church, Publishers, 1900."

[57] "Toadstools, Mushrooms, Fungi, Edible and Poisonous. One Thousand American Fungi. How to Select and Cook the Edible; How to Distinguish and Avoid the Poisonous, Giving Full Botanic Descriptions Made Easy for Reader and Student. By Charles McIlvaine, President Philadelphia Mycological Centre, Honorary Member Salem County and Gloucester County, N. J., Medical Societies; Assisted by Robert K. Macadam. Toadstool Poisons and Their Treatment, Instructions to Students, Recipes for Cooking, etc., etc. Indianapolis, U. S. A.: The Bowen-Merrill Company, Publishers. Edition limited to 750 copies."

[58]

"Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, Unwonted softness to the salad give. Of mordant mustard add a single spoon, Distrust the condiment that bites so soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault To add a double quantity of salt. Three times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown, And once with vinegar procured from town. True flavour needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs; Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole. And, lastly, on the flavoured compound toss A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. Then though green turtle fail, though venison's tough, And ham and turkey are not boiled enough, Serenely full, the epicure may say, 'Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day.'"

[59] "As for the pepper, never use the powdered pepper that you buy at the grocer's and which has generally lost its flavour before it reaches the depths of the pepper-caster. The only pepper worthy to titillate the papillæ of a civilised man is that ground out of the peppercorn, at the moment of use, in a little hand-mill."--THEODORE CHILD: Delicate Feasting.

[60] "The Story of My House": "A Blue-Violet Salad."

[61] "Jam! jam! I yield me to thy potent charm."

Transcriber's Note:

1. Original spelling has been retained.

2. Punctuation and obvious spelling errors have been corrected.

3. Superscripts are shown as ^{xx} or ^x.

4. Italics are shown as _xxx_.

5. Bold script is shown as =xxx=.

Comments

Log in to leave a comment.

The Pleasures of the TableChapter I: GO A-MARKETING. By Henrietta Sowle ("Henriette"). Boston: Little,

0%43 min left in chapter