Chapter XLII: Appendix: D

The following Lists of Colours have been furnished by Mr. M. C. Lamb, Director of the Leather Dyeing Department of Herold’s Institute, London, who has devoted much time to testing the various dyes with regard to their permanence and suitability for leather. Many of the colours have also been tested and found satisfactory in the Leather Department of the Yorkshire College. The following abbreviations of makers’ names are used in the lists:--

B. BASLER CHEMISCHE FABRIK, A. G. Basle, Switzerland.
B.A.S.F. BADISCHE ANILIN UND SODA FABRIK. Ludwigshafen a. Rhine,
Germany.
Ber. BERLIN ANILINE CO. Berlin S.O., Germany.
B.S. Spl. BROOKE, SIMPSON & SPILLER. Atlas Dye Works, Hackney Wick,
London, N.E.
By. FARBEN-FABRIKEN, late BAYER & CO. Elberfeld, Germany.
C. L. CASSELLA & CO. Frankfort a. Main, Germany.
C.A. FRENCH ANILINE COLOUR WORKS. Vieux-Conde (Norde), France.
C. & R. CLAUS & RÉE. Clayton, near Manchester.
D. DAHL & CO. Barmen, Germany.
D. & H. DURAND, HUGUENIN & CO. Basle, Switzerland.
G. R. GEIGY & CO. Basle, Switzerland.
Ger. GERBER & CO. Basle, Switzerland.
K. KALLE & CO. Bierbrich a. Rhine, Germany.
Leon. A. LEONHARDT & CO. Muhlheim a. Main, Germany.
Leitch J. W. LEITCH. Milnsbridge Chemical Works, Huddersfield.
Lev. LEVINSTEIN LTD. 21 Minshull Street, Manchester.
M.L.B. MEISTER, LUCIUS & BRUNING. Hoechst a. Main, Germany.
Mo. GILLIARD, P. MONNET & GARTIER. Lyons, France.
N. NOETZEL, ISTEL & CO. Griesheim a. Main, Germany.
O. K. OEHLER & CO. Offenbach a. Main, Germany.
P. ST. DENIS DYESTUFF CO., late POURIER. St. Denis, near
Paris.
R. SOCIÉTE CHIMIQUE DES USINES DU RHONE. Lyons, France.
R. H. & S. READ, HOLLIDAY & SONS. Huddersfield.
S.C.Ind. SOCIETY OF CHEMICAL INDUSTRY. Basle, Switzerland.
Uer. CHEMISCHE FABRIKEN. Uerdingen a. Rhein, Germany.
W. Bros. WILLIAMS BROS. & CO. Hounslow, Middlesex.

STAINING.

SINGLE ACID DYES SUITABLE FOR STAINING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER.

_Browns._

Solid brown. (M.L.B.)
Acid brown. (W. Bros.)
Brown A2. (B.S. Spl.)
Brown A1. (B.S. Spl.)
Mikado brown B. (Leon.)
New acid brown. (B.S. Spl.)
Bronze acid brown. (By.)
Golden brown Y. (C.), (By.)
Acid anthracene brown R. (By.)
Fast brown N. (B.A.S.F.)
Nut brown A. (C.)
Fast brown. (By.)
Fast brown G. (Ber.)
Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
Resorcin brown. (D.)
Acid brown. (Ber.)
Dark nut brown. (W. Bros.)
Acid brown R. (C.)
Acid brown R. (Uer.)
Acid brown R. (R. H. & S.)
New golden brown A1. (C.)
Dark brown. (C.)
Acid brown L. (B.A.S.F.)
Acid brown D. (C.)

_Yellows._

Azo yellow. (Uer.)
Phosphine subst. (B.S. Spl.)
Chrysoine. (W. Bros.)
Azo-acid-yellow. (Ber.)
New phosphine G. (C.)
Cuba yellow 2072. (S.C. Ind.)
Cuba yellow (W. Bros.)
Azo-flavine RS. (C.) and (B.A.S.F.)
Azo-flavine 3R. (B.A.S.F.)
Indian yellow R. (By.)
Turmeric yellow. (G.)
Solid yellow G. (Leon.)
Solid yellow B. (Leon.)
Indian yellow R. (C.)
Cuba yellow. (C.)
Napthol yellow S. (By.), (C.), (B.A.S.F.)
Turmeric yellow. (C.), (G.)
Fast acid yellow. (C.A.)

_Reds and Oranges._

Scarlet R. (By.)
Crocein scarlet 3BN. (By.)
Orange 2. (M.L.B.), (S.C. Ind.), (C.) and (B.A.S.F.)
Orange 2B. (By.)
Mandarin G extra. (Ber.)
Brill. crocein M.O.O. (C.)
Bordeaux G. (By.)
Atlas orange. (B.S. Spl.)
Bordeaux cov. (Ber.)
Fast red 21528. (By.)
Fast red A. (Leon.), (By.), (Ber.), and (B.A.S.F.)
Bordeaux B. (M.L.B.)

_Greens._

Acid green extra conc. (C.)
Guinea green B. (Ber.)
Guinea green G. (Ber.)
Acid green GG. (By.)
Acid green BB. (By.)
Acid green B. (By.)
Acid green G. (By.)
Acid green 000. (Leon.)
Acid green extra. (By.)
Acid green (Uer.)
Acid green (R. H. & S.)
Light green SF. (B.A.S.F.)
Erioglaucine. (G.)

_Violets._

Acid violet 4RS. (Ber.)
Acid violet 7B. (Ber.)
Acid violet 6B. (By.)
Formyl violet S4B. (C.)

_Blues._

Bavarian blue D.B. (Ber.)
Marine blue o. (K.)
Solid blue. (M.L.B.)
Blue 1. (Lev.)
Blue 2. (Lev.)
Blue 3. (Lev.)

SINGLE BASIC DYES SUITABLE FOR STAINING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER.

_Browns._

Bismark brown GG. (C.)
Chrysoidine AG. (O.)
Bismark brown 2B. (K.)
Bismark brown (By.)
Bismark brown R.C.E. (Lev.)
Bismark brown M. (By.)
Vesuvine conc. (M.L.B.)
Vesuvine conc. (B.A.S.F.)
Bismark brown C extra. (Leon.)
Bismark brown RS. (B.S. Spl.)
Bismark brown 3762. (W. Bros.)
Rheonine A. (B.A.S.F.)
Rheonine N. (B.A.S.F.)
Brown R. (G.)
Brown G. (G.)
Manchester brown. (C.)

_Yellows._

Acridine yellow NC. (Leon.)
Phosphine N. (Ber.)
Patent phosphine R. (S.C. Ind.)
Leather yellow 6730. (C.A.)
Auramine 2. (By.)
Chrysoidine cryst. (B.S. Spl.) and (By.)
Chrysoidine diamond cryst. (W. Bros.)
Leather yellow o. (M.L.B.)
Chrysoidine. (R. H. & S.)
Leather yellow G. (M.L.B.)
Leather yellow 6730. (C.A.)
Patent phosphine G. (S.C. Ind.)
Leather yellow DRR. (Ber.)
Xanthine. (O.)
Cannella G. (W. Bros.)
Pure phosphine. (C.)
New phosphine G. (C.)
Cori-phosphine o. (By.)
Para-phosphine R. (C.)
Para-phosphine G. (C.)
Leather yellow 374. (D.)
Leather yellow 375. (D.)
Homo-phosphine G. (Leon.)
Phosphine ABN. (Leon.)
Auramine 2 patent. (S.C. Ind.)

_Greens._

Methyl green cryst. (Ber.)
Methylene green. (M.L.B.)
Solid green. (Leon.)
Malachite green. (Ber.), (M.L.B.), (P.), (C.A.), (S.C. Ind.), (R. H.
& S.), (Lev.), (C.), (B.S. Spl.) and (K.)

_Reds._

Safranine. (M.L.B.), (B.A.S.F.), (S.C. Ind.) and (K.), (Ber.), (By.),
(C.A.), (Leon.), (Uer.)
Russian Red. (By.) and (Ber.)

_Violets._

Methyl violets. (Ber.), (By.), (M.L.B.), (R. H. & S.), (B.S. Spl.),
(C.) (S.C. Ind.), (P.) and (D.).

_Blacks._

Corvoline B. (B.A.S.F.)
Corvoline G. (B.A.S.F.)

DYEING.

SINGLE ACID COLOURS SUITABLE FOR DYEING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHERS.[198]

[198] For explanation of Roman numerals see end of Appendix D.

_Yellows._

II. Napthol yellow S. (Ber.), (B.A.S.F.), (By.) and (C.).
VII. Quinoline yellow. (Ber.), (By.) and (B.A.S.F.).
II. Citronine. (Leon.)
IV. Solid yellow G. (Leon.)
IV. Solid yellow B. (Leon.)
V. Indian yellow S.
V. Azo-acid yellow.
IV. Indian yellow T. (C.)
VII. Indian yellow R. (By.) and (C.).
IV. Indian yellow G. (By.) and (C.).
IV. Cuba yellow. (C.), (W. Bros.) and (S.C.Ind.).
V. Azo-flavine RS. (B.A.S.F.) and (C.).
V. Azo-flavine 3R. (B.A.S.F.) and (C.).
VI. Circumein extra. (Ber.)
VII. Tartrazine. (B.A.S.F.)

_Oranges._

V. Orange 2. (B.A.S.F.), (C.), (M.L.B.), (S.C. Ind.), (P.) (W.
Bros.) and (By.).
V. Mandarin G extra. (Ber.)
V. Crocein orange. (K.) and (By.).
VI. Ponceaux 10RB, 4R, Bo, 4RB, 6RB. (Ber.), (By.) and (D.).

_Bordeaux._

VII. Azo bordeaux. (By.)
IV. Bordeaux B extra. (By.)
VI. Bordeaux G. (By.)
V. Bordeaux Y. (W. Bros.)
V. Acid maroon. (M.L.B.) and (B.S. Spl.).
VIII. Chromatrop 6B. (M.L.B.)

_Reds._

V. Fast red A. (Ber.), (By.), (B.A.S.F.), (B.S. Spl.) and (Leon.)
VIII. Fast red S. (M.L.B.)
VI. Fast red 21528. (By.)

_Scarlets._

V. Crocein scarlet R. (By.) and (K.).
V. Crocein scarlet 2R. (By.)
VII. Fast scarlet B. (B.A.S.F.), (W. Bros.) and (K.)

_Browns._

IV. Acid brown R. (C.)
V. Acid brown L. (B.A.S.F.)
V. Acid brown Y. (S.C. Ind.)
IV. Acid brown D. (C.), (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Acid brown (R.H. & S.)
IV. Acid brown 4601. (B.S. Spl.)
V. Acid brown D. (C.)
VII. Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
V. Acid brown. (Uer.)
IV. Acid brown R. (Ber.)
VIII. Acid brown Y. (M.L.B.).
VI. Solid brown o. (M.L.B.)
V. Fast brown. (By.)
V. Fast brown. G. (Ber.)
V. Fast brown. N. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Fast brown. 3B. (Ber.)
V. Bronze acid brown. (By.)
VIII. Acid anthracine brown R. (By.)
V. New acid brown. (B.S. Spl.)
VI. Dark nut brown. (Uer.)
IV. New golden brown A1. (C.)

_Blacks._

IV. Napthol blue black. (C.)
V. Napthylamine black 4B. (C.)
V. Napthylamine black 6B. (C.)
VII. Phenol black S. (By.)
IV. Phenylamine black 4B. (By.)
VII. Victoria black B. (By.)

_Blues._

VIII. Fast blue R. (Ber.)
VIII. Bavarian blue DB. (Ber.)
V. Erioglaucine. (G.)
IV. Cyanole ext. (C.)
IV. Marine blue. (K.)
VII. Water blue N. (B.A.S.F.)
VIII. Water blue 4 B. (Ber.)
VII. Cotton blue II. (By.).
VII. Toluidine blue. (B.A.S.F.) and (By.).
VII. Water blue R. (Leon.)
VII. Water blue 3R. (Leon.)
VII. Water blue BTR. (B.A.S.F.)

_Violets._

Acid violets (Lev.), (B.A.S.F.) and (By.)
IX. Acid violets 4R. (B.A.S.F.)
V. Acid violets R. (C.)
V. Acid violets R. (B.A.S.F.)
VI. Acid violets 3BA. (M.L.B.)
IV. Acid violets 3BN. (Lev.)
II. Acid violets 6B. (By.) and (C.).
III. Formyl violet S4B. (C.)

_Greens._

IV. Acid green extra conc. (C.)
IV. Guinea green B and G. (Ber.)
IV. Acid green ext. (By.)
IV. Acid green GG ext. (By.)
IV. Acid green 225. (By.)
IV. Acid green BB. ext. (By.)
IV. Acid green o. (M.L.B.)
IV. Acid green 5677. (B.S. Spl.)
V. Capri green 2G. (Lev.)

SINGLE BASIC DYES SUITABLE FOR DYEING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHERS.

_Browns._

IV. Vesuvine ooo ext. (B.A.S.F.)
II. Vesuvine B. (B.A.S.F.)
II. Vesuvine (C.)
III. Vesuvine conc. (M.L.B.)
III. Bismark brown ext. (Ber.) and (B.S. Spl.).
III. Bismark brown ext. M. (By.)
III. Bismark brown F. (By.)
IV. Bismark brown YS. (B.S. Spl.)
III. Bismark brown PS. (C.)
III. Bismark brown GG. (C.)
III. Bismark brown O. (L.)
III. Bismark brown G. (O.)
III. Bismark brown (S.C. Ind.)
III. Bismark brown NYY. (W. Bros.)
III. Bismark brown o. (M.L.B.)
II. Cannella. (B.S. Spl.)
II. Cannella. (B.A.S.F.)
II. Cannella. (C.)
V. Cannella. (S.C. Ind.)
II. Cannella S. (Ber.)
III. Cannella P. (W.)
IV. Nanking. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Nanking. (R.H. & S.)
IV. Nanking. (S.C. Ind.)
III. Lavilliere’s 122. (By.)
II. Rheonine. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Xanthine. (O.)

_Yellowish Oranges._

III. Chrysoidines, (Leitch); R, (R.H. & S.)
IV. Chrysoidines ext. (W.).
II. Chrysoidines (S.C.Ind.); GG,(C.)
III. Chrysoidines G. (Leon.)
II. Chrysoidines RE. (Lev.)
III. Chrysoidines YY. (C.)
III. Chrysoidines cryst. (B.S. Spl.)
III. Chrysoidines G. (By.)
V. Chrysoidines cryst. (C.A.)

_Yellows._

III. Auramine 2. (B.A.S.F.)
III. Auramine. (S.C. Ind.)
III. Auramine. (G.)
III. Auramine. (Ber.)
III. Auramine. (By.)
III. Auramine. (L.)
III. Auramine. (W.)
III. Auramine. (C.)
III. Auramine. (W.)
V. Auramine conc. (M.L.B.).
IV. Phosphine E. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Phosphine L. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Phosphine G. (Ber.)
IV. Phosphine. (O.)
IV. Phosphine. (C.)
IV. Phosphine Ext. (M.L.B.)
IV. Phosphine B ext. (S.C. Ind.)
III. Phosphine III., II., I. (Leon.)
III. Phosphine N. (Ber.).
V. Cori-phosphine. (By.)
V. Homo-phosphine. (Leon.)
V. Para-phosphine. (C.)

_Greens._

III. Methyl green cryst. (By.) D.
V. Methylene green o. (M.L.B.)
II. Diamond green B and G. (B.A.S.F.)
II. Benzal green. (O.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (M.L.B.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (By.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (O.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (L.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (Lev.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (Uer.)
II. Brillt. green cryst. (S.C. Ind.)
II. Malachite green. (B.S. Spl.)
II. Malachite green. (Ber.)
II. Malachite green. (C.A.)
II. Malachite green. (K.)
II. Malachite green. (M.L.B.)
II. Malachite green. (Lev.)
II. Malachite green. (G.)
II. Malachite green. (O.)

_Blues._

VII. Methylene blue B, 2B and R. (Ber.)
VII. Methylene blue. (B.A.S.F.)
VII. Methylene blue. (M.L.B.)
VII. Methylene blue. (Lev.)
VII. Methylene blue. (C.)
VII. Methylene blue. (C. & R.)
VIII. New methylene blue. GG. (C.)
VIII. New methylene blue. BB. (C.)
IV. New blue R. (Ber.)
V. New blue R. (By.)
VI. New patent blue 4B. (By.)

_Violets._

IV. Methyl Violet 4B. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Methyl Violet 4R. (K.)
IV. Methyl Violet 4R. (C.)
IV. Methyl Violet 3B. (By.)
IV. Methyl Violet 3B. (Ber.)
IV. Methyl Violet 2B. (M.L.B.)
IV. Methyl Violet (D.)
IV. Methyl Violet 6B. (Leon.)
IV. Neutral violet ext. (C.)

_Bordeaux._

IV. Magenta WB. (Leon.)
IV. Magenta 3B. (Ber.)
IV. Magenta RE. (Leon.)
IV. Magenta WBG. (Leon.)
IV. Magenta. (M.L.B.)
IV. Magenta. (K.)
IV. Magenta. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Magenta 4128. (B.S. Spl.)

_Reds._

VIII. Rhodamine B extra. (Ber.)
VIII. Rhodamine B. (B.A.S.F.)
VIII. Rhodamine B. (By.)
VIII. Rhodamine (S.C. Ind.)
VIII. Rhodamine (M.L.B.)
VII. Safranine. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Russian red G. (B.A.S.F.).
IV. Russian red B. (C.)
IV. Russian red (Ber.)
IV. Russian red (Uer.)
IV. Russian red B. (B.A.S.F.)
IV. Russian red G. (C.)
IV. Russian red (Ber.)
IV. Russian red R. (By.)
IV. Cardinal 4B. (By.)
VIII. Rhoduline red. (By.)
V. Safranine G ext. (C.)
VII. Safranine BS. (By.)
Safranine G ext. (Ber.)

ACID MIXTURES SUITABLE FOR DYEING AND STAINING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHERS.

Orange 2. (M.L.B.)
Azo-yellow o. (M.L.B.)
Patent blue V. (M.L.B.)

Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
Circumein ext. (Ber.)
Nigrosine 105. (Ber.)

Acid brown R. (C.)
Indian yellow G. (C.)
Pure soluble blue. (C.)

New acid brown. (B.S. Spl.)
Phosphine subst. (B.S. Spl.)
Induline. (B.S. Spl.)

Acid brown R. (C.)
Azo-flavine R.S. (C.)
Naphtol blue black. (C.)

Resorcin brown, (Ber.)
Fast brown G. (Ber.)
Napthylamine black D. (C.)

Fast brown G. (Ber.)
Circumine ext. (Ber.)
Nigrosine 105. (Ber.)

Fast brown. (By.)
Indian yellow R. (By.)
Fast green blue shade. (By.)

Acid anthracene brown. (By.)
Indian yellow R. (By.)
Fast green blue shade. (By.)

Fast brown N. (B.A.S.F.)
Azo-flavine RS. (B.A.S.F.)
Light green S.F. (B.A.S.F.)

Dark nut brown. (Uer.)
Azo-yellow. (Uer.)
Acid green. (Uer.)

Acid brown. (D.)
Crocein orange. (D.)
Cotton blue 3R. (D.)

Resorcin brown. (D.)
Cotton blue 3R. (D.)

Acid brown B. (S.C. Ind.)
Cuba yellow 2072. (S.C. Ind.)
Acid green. (S.C. Ind.)

Resorcin brown. (W. Bros.)
Cuba yellow. (W. Bros.)
Acid green. (W. Bros.)

Napthol brown. (Leon.)
Citronine A. (Leon.)
Acid green 000. (Leon.)

Acid brown R. (R.H. & S.)
Acid yellow. (R.H. & S.)
Nigrosine cryst. (R.H. & S.)

Orange 2. (P.)
Yellow oS. (P.)
Acid green J3E. (P.)

Acid brown. (C.A.)
Acid yellow S. (C.A.)
Pure blue cryst. (C.A.)

Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
Azo-acid-yellow or Circumine ext. (Ber.)
Bavarian blue DB, or Guinea green G. (Ber.)

Indian yellow R. (C.)
Acid brown R. (C.)
Pure soluble blue. (C.)

Azo-acid-yellow conc. (M.L.B.)
Solid brown o. (M.L.B.)
Fast blue o sol. (M.L.B.)

Bronze acid brown. (By.)
Indian yellow R. (By.)
Fast green blue shade. (By.)

Acid anthracene brown. (By.)
Indian yellow R. (By.)
Fast green blue shade. (By.)

Orange 11. (B.A.S.F.)
Scarlet GL. (B.A.S.F.)
Light green SFYS. (B.A.S.F.)

Azo-flavine RS. (B.A.S.F.)
Acid brown L. (B.A.S.F.)
Light green SFYS. (B.A.S.F.)

Chocolate. (Uer.)
Tartrazine, (B.A.S.F.); or Azo-yellow, (Uer.)

BASIC MIXTURES SUITABLE FOR DYEING AND STAINING VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHERS.

Bismark brown M. (By.)
Auramine 2. (By.)
Methylene blue BB. (By.)

Rheonine A. (B.A.S.F.)
Vesuvine B2. (B.A.S.F.)
Diamond green G. (B.A.S.F.)

Bismark brown O. (Leon.)
Auramine 2. (Leon.)
Solid green P. (Leon)

Bismarck Brown ext. (Ber.)
Philadelphia yellow R. (Ber.)
Malachite green cryst. (Ber.)

New phosphine G. (C.)
Chrysoidine. (C.)
New blue B. (C.)

Phosphine ext. (F.)
Chrysoidine diamond cryst. (F.)
Bright green cryst. ext. (F.)

Bismark brown GG. (O.)
Aniline yellow ext. (O.)
Neutral violet ext. (O.)

Dark brown B. (By.)
Auramine 2. (By.)
Emerald green cryst. (By.)

Phosphine 3RB. (Ber.)
Philadelphia yellow R. (Ber.)
Russian green 36784. (Ber.)

Bismark Brown RS. (B.S. Spl.)
Cannella. (B.S. Spl.)
Malachite green. (B.S. Spl.)

Vesuvine conc. (M.L.B.)
Auramine conc. (M.L.B.)
Methylene green. (M.L.B.)

Cutch brown. (Leitch.)
Lemon yellow G. (Leitch.)
Russian green 3 B. (Leitch.)

Bismark brown 2 B. (K.)
Yellow for leather ext. (K.)
Malachite green cryst. (K.)

Auramine. (G.)
Brown R. (G.)
Malachite green. (G.)

Auramine o. (Lev.)
Bismark brown R.C.E. (Lev.)
Brill. green. (Lev.)

Bismark brown Y40. (R.H. & S.)
Canary 2. (R.H. & S.)
Green cryst. Y. (R.H. & S.).

Leather brown A. (S.C. Ind.)
Auramine 2. (S.C. Ind.)
Leather black 1. (S.C. Ind.)

Leather black R. (Uer.).
Yellow 4803. (Uer.)
Blue black S. (Uer.)

Bismark brown NYY. (W. Bros.)
Cannella G. (W. Bros.)

Brown for leather 375. (D.)
Fast yellow 168. (D.)
Methyl green G ext. fine. (D.)

Brown N. (D.)
Leather brown P. (D.)
Paris violet o. (D.)

CHROME LEATHER.

The following dye-stuffs are suitable for dyeing chrome leather. The leather after tanning, is boraxed in the usual manner and then mordanted by drumming or paddling in a tannin solution; for dark shades 3 per cent. gambier and 3 per cent. fustic extract (the weight being calculated on the leather struck out after boraxing) is suitable; for light shades 1¹⁄₂ per cent. gambier is to be recommended. The leather, after mordanting, is fat-liquored and dyed, adding a weight of sodium or potassium bisulphate equal to that of the dye-stuff, to the dye-bath. The following is not by any means a complete list of the dyes which will dye chrome leather well, but merely representative.

After the goods are dyed, they should be well washed in tepid water to which has been added a little common salt; one pound to every three dozen skins being a suitable amount to use. When the goods have been washed, they are struck out by machine and are then ready for shaving, if the operation has not been performed previous to dyeing. The skins are afterwards nailed out flat, grain-side up, on boards, and a mixture of glycerine and water--3 lb. of glycerine dissolved in one gallon of water being a suitable strength--is well sponged on the grain-side; the goods are now lightly oiled (using a good sperm, neat’s-foot or mineral oil), before being taken to the drying room. When thoroughly dry they are taken off the boards, and placed with layers of damp sawdust between each skin, for a few hours in order to allow the goods to become suitably damp for staking. The skins should now be well staked by machine, the Haley (England), Slocomb or Vaughn (America) being good machines for this purpose (p. 192).

After staking, the goods are “soft-boarded,” and a thin coat of a weak linseed mucilage is applied to the skins, which are afterwards dried out and seasoned with the following mixture:--

“Soak 10 to 15 oz. of dry egg albumen for four hours in 1 gallon of cold water, with occasional stirring, strain off any insoluble matter and add 1 gallon of milk. A little carbolic acid (phenol) may be added to the above if it is desired to keep the finish for more than two or three days--1 oz. of phenol previously dissolved in a little water, added to each gallon of the finish, being a suitable amount.” A little dye should be added to the mixture.

After seasoning, the skins are dried out in the stove, glazed twice round and re-seasoned with the above mixture diluted with its own volume of water. The goods are dried out and again glazed, perched lightly, and finally boarded up from neck to tail in order to raise the popular straight-grain. Should the glaze be too bright the albumen solution may be reduced to half-strength.

When the goods have been glazed they are rubbed over on the grain side with a flannel cloth which is slightly damp with linseed oil, trimmed up, and are ready for sale.

DYES SUITABLE FOR DYEING CHROME-TANNED LEATHER.

_Browns._

Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
Chocolate. (Uer.)
Fast brown. (BY.)
Fast brown. (Ber.)
New golden brown A.1. (C.)
Fast brown. (B.A.S.F.)
Acid brown Y. (S.C. Ind.)
Acid brown B. (S.C. Ind.)
Golden brown. (Leitch.)
Bronze acid brown. (By.)
Light nut brown. (Uer.)
Resorcin brown. (W. Bros.)
Acid brown 5210. (W. Bros.)
New acid brown. (B.S. Spl.)
Light nut brown. (R.)
Brown 2Y. (R.)
Azo-phosphine. (Uer.)
Golden brown Y. (W. Bros.)

_Yellowish Browns and Yellows._

Citronine. (Leon.)
Azo-flavine RS. (B.A.S.F.)
Cuba yellow 2072. (S.C. Ind.)
Phosphine substitute. (B.S. Spl.)
Azo-yellow conc. (M.L.B.)
Azo-flavine. (R.)
Golden orange R. (Leitch.)
Circumein ext. (Ber.)
Indian yellow G. (By.)
Turmeric substitute (W. Bros.).
Azo-yellow R. (M.L.B.).
Chrysophenin G. (Leon.)
Indian yellow T. (C.)
Quinoline yellow. (Ber.)
Cuba yellow. (C.) and (W. Bros.)
Indian yellow. G. (C.)
Chrysoine ext. (W. Bros.)
Azo-flavine. (B.S. Spl.)
Turmeric yellow B. (Leitch.)
Azo-yellow FY. (R.H. & S.)
Orange 4. (R.H. & S.)
Naphtol yellow S. (B.A.S.F.)
Turmeric yellow Y. (Leitch.)
Azo-flavine 7032. (S.C. Ind.)
Turmeric yellow. (G.)
Solid yellow Y. (Leon.)
Solid yellow B. (Leon.)
Milling brown G. (Leon.)
Napthamine yellow 3 G. (K.)
Orange GG. (C.)
Resorcin yellow. (Ber.)

_Greens._

Acid green conc. (M.L.B.)
Acid green ooo. (Leon.)
Guinea greens G and B. (Ber.)
Acid green ext. conc. (C.)
Fast acid green BN. (C.).
Erioglaucine. (G.)
Acid green 5677. (W. Bros.)
Acid green (Uer.)
Light green SF. (B.A.S.F.)
Acid green ext. GG. (By.)

_Violets and Blues._

Bavarian blue DB. (Ber.)
Blue R. (Lev.)
Water blue TR. (B.A.S.F.)
Fast blue O. (M.L.B.)
Water blue 4B. (Leon.)
Cyanole extra. (C.)
Acid blue. (C.A.)
Acid violets 3BN and 6BN. (Lev.)

_Oranges._

Orange 2, (S.C. Ind.); C, (M.L.B.); B, (By.) and (B.A.S.F.).
Orange A. (Leon.)
Orange G. (R.H. & S.)
Ponceaus. (Ber.) and (By.)
Crocein oranges. (K.) and (By.)
Mandarine G ext. (Ber.)
Atlas oranges. (B.S. Spl.)

_Scarlets and Reds._

Most acid scarlets and reds dye chrome leather well on the mordant, particulars of which are given above.

_Blacks._

These are dyed direct without any mordanting.

Leather black V. (By.)
Leather black 1. (S.C.Ind.)
Naphthylamine blacks 4B and 6B. (C.)
French black. (Uer.)
Chrome leather black. (C. & R.)
Coomassie black 4BS. (Lev.)
Phenylamine black 4B. (By.)

Titanium salts (potassium titanium oxalate and tanno-titanium oxalate) may be employed in conjunction with the coal-tar colours for dyeing chrome leather, with many advantages over the ordinary mordants, the colour produced being faster to light, rubbing, fuller in shade, and with much less tendency to “grinning.” When employing titanium mordants, the leather should be first lightly mordanted with some tannin solution and afterwards dyed with the titanium and dye-stuff in the same bath, in which case only “acid” dyestuffs may be employed. If desired the goods may be mordanted with the tannin mordant, afterwards treated with the titanium salts, washed and dyed; in this case the dyeing and application of the titanium mordant being carried out separately, the leather may be dyed with either the acid or basic dye stuffs. The titanium and tannin mordants may also be applied in the same bath.

DYEING CHAMOIS LEATHER.

The following colours dye chamois leather well, after washing the leather in a weak soda solution, mordanting with 3 per cent. basic chrome alum solution, and transferring to the dye-bath without washing. Equal weight of bisulphate of soda to that of the dyestuff is added to the dye-bath.

BASIC COAL-TAR COLOURS.

Bismark brown extra. (Ber.)
Philadelphia yellow R. (Ber.)
Pure phosphine. (C.)
Leather blue V. (G.)
Leather brown Y. (S.C. Ind.)
Leather brown A. (S.C. Ind.)
Philadelphia brown. (Ber.)

ACID COAL-TAR COLOURS.

Circumine extra. (Ber.)
Resorcin brown. (Ber.)
Induline NN. (B.A.S.F.)
Orange 2. (M.L.B.)
Golden brown. (Leitch.)
Fast brown. (By.)
Azo-yellow R. (M.L.B.)
Napthylamine black 4B. (C.)
Chocolate. (Uer.)
Azo-flavine RS. (C.)
Azo-phosphine. (Uer.)
Acid anthracene brown R. (By.)
Acid green conc. (M.L.B.)
Acid brown Y. (S.C. Ind.)
Acid brown B. (S.C. Ind.)
Napthylamine black 4B. (O.)
Jet black cryst. (C.)
Anthracene brown R. (By.)
Anthracene brown GG. (By.)
Anthracene brown W. (By.)
Dark nut brown. (Uer.)
Orange 2. (M.L.B.)

NATURAL DYESTUFFS.

Peachwood extract.
Sapan ext.
Logwood ext.
Fustic ext.
Turmeric ext.

A variety of shades may be obtained on chamois leather by mordanting in a 1 per cent. solution of the titanium salts above mentioned and then transferring without washing to the dye-liquor, which is best used in the drum. The colours which are most suitable are the Alizarin colours, Janus colours and the natural dyestuffs.

_Alizarin Colours._

Alizarin black produces light slate.
Alizarin orange „ bright orange.
Alizarin blue „ blue.
Azo-alizarin black „ brownish maroon.
Azo-alizarin brown „ reddish violet.
Alizarin red „ bright scarlet red.
Azo-alizarin blue „ slate blue.
Coerulein „ yellowish green.
Azo-alizarin yellow „ bright yellow.
Anthracene brown „ fawn brown.
Acid anthracene brown G „ brownish orange.
Acid anthracene brown R „ dull chocolate brown.
Anthracene blue „ pale blue.
Mordant yellow „ lemon yellow.

_Janus Colours._

Janus yellow G. produces bright orange.
Janus yellow R. „ reddish orange.
Janus red „ dark maroon.
Janus claret red „ bluish maroon.
Janus brown R. „ dark reddish chocolate.
Janus blue B. „ bluish black.

_Natural Dyestuffs._

Barwood produces salmon pink.
Logwood „ dull reddish brown.
Fustic „ bright yellow.
Turmeric „ yellow.
Brazil wood „ reddish brown.
Sapan wood „ light nut brown.
Sumach „ buff yellow.
Persian berries „ light orange yellow.
Madder „ red.
Quercitron bark „ light orange yellow.
Cutch „ fawn brown.
Campeche „ canary yellow.
Peach wood „ pale reddish tint.
Divi-Divi „ buff yellow.

The leather is run in the dyestuff solution at a temperature of about 45° to 50° C. for about half an hour, and then lightly fat-liquored, if desired, and afterwards dried.

In addition to the dyestuffs mentioned above many basic colours may be employed after the treatment with titanium, some of these producing a colour lake with the titanium mordants.

As regards the permanency of the various colours to light, the reader is referred to an important paper by Mr. Lamb,[199] but in many cases the probable permanency is indicated by a number prefixed to the name of the colour in Roman figures, I. corresponding to the lowest, and X. to the highest permanency. In the research referred to, about 1500 samples of leathers dyed with coal-tar dyes were exposed to light for a series of “periods,” each equal in actinic power to nine days of the brightest summer sunshine. The most fugitive colours faded completely, even in the first “period,” and the most permanent before the end of the tenth. The prefixed numerals indicate to which of these “periods” the colour survived.

[199] Journal of Society of Chemical Industry, 1902, p. 156.

INDEX.

_Abies_, 246
_Acacia_, 288
-- _arabica_, 165
Acetic acid, 154, 221, 410
Acid, acetic, 154, 221, 410
-- amido-acetic, 61
-- -- -caproic, 61
-- -- -propionic, 61
-- -- -succinic, 61
-- arsenious, 26
-- aspartic, 61
-- benzoic, 29
-- boric, 155, 162, 221, 229
-- butyric, 61
-- carbolic, 26, 295
-- carbonic, 99, 105, 161
-- chromic, 200
-- cresotinic, 29, 162
-- digallic, 295
-- ellagic, 231, 296
-- ellagitannic, 231, 297
-- formic, 154, 159, 410
-- gallotannic, 295
-- hydrochloric, 154, 157
-- lactic, 154, 158, 221
-- linolenic, 355
-- oleic, 240, 354, 360
-- oxalic, 155, 221
-- oxynaphthoic, 30, 163
-- perchromic, 200
-- protocatechuic, 295
-- pyroligneous, 154
-- salicylic, 28, 295
-- stearic, 351
-- sulphuric, 114, 154, 157, 410
-- sulphurous, 23, 114, 338
-- xanthoproteic, 67
Acids, action on hide, 84
-- amido-, 61, 66
-- in tanning liquors, 20
-- mineral, 23
-- use in softening, 114
Acrilene bating acid, 163
Adipose tissue, 53
_Æthalium septicum_, 10
African oak, 257
Ageing, 188
_Ailantus_, 272
Air, capacity for moisture, 426
-- cost of heating, 428
-- -filters, 439
-- -passages, 437
-- weight of, 428
Alanine, 61
Albumin of hide, 65
Albumins, 56, 66
Alcohol, action on hide, 83
Alcoholic fermentation, 13, 16
Alder, 250
Allen, 366
Aleppo pine, 248
Algarobilla, 286, 293
Alizarine colours, 403
Alkalies, action on gelatine, 89
-- -- on hide, 84
Alkaline carbonates, 138
_Alnus_, 250
Alsop, 313
Alum, 159, 339, 185
Alumed leathers, 2, 4, 9
-- -- dyeing, 402
Alumina, 185
-- in water, 103
-- soap, 352
Aluminium, 185
Amido-acetic acid, 61
-- -acids, 61, 66
-- -caproic acid, 61
-- -propionic acid, 61
-- -succinic acid, 61
Amines, 173
Amœba, 10
Ammonium chloride, 157, 159
-- sulphate, 159, 184
Analysis of tanning materials, 300, 475, 482
_Anacardiaceæ_, 269
Andreasch, 272
Angicabark, 293
Anhydrides of tannins, 297
Aniline dyes, 394
Anion, 80
_Anogeissus_, 293
Anticalcium, 29, 157
Antiseptics, 21
A.O.A.C. method, 300, 312, 482
_Apocynaceæ_, 279
Apples of Sodom, 261
Arata, 269
Arbutus, 279
Archbutt and Deeley, 95
_Arctostaphylos_, 279
Arsenic, 26
-- cures, 39, 42
-- -limes, 194
-- sulphide, 139, 142
Arsenious acid, 26
Aspartic acid, 61
_Aspidospermum_, 279
Association of Official Agric. Chem., 300, 312, 482
Atmospheric pressure, 422
Attractions of molecules, 74
Avidity of acids, 81
Azo-colours, 399

Bablah, 289
Babool, 165, 228, 288
Babul--_see_ Babool
_Bacillus erodiens_, 175
_Bacteria_, 14, 15
-- aerobic and anaerobic, 471
Bacterial filters, 469, 472
-- products, 18, 19
_Bacterium furfuris_, 166
Badamier bark, 282
Bag-tannage, 235
Bakau bark, 283
Balance, analytical, 310
Balaustines, 285
Bali-babilan, 288
_Balsamocarpon_, 286
Band-knife splitting machine, 384, 387
_Banksia_, 268
Barbed wire scratches, 43
Barium chloride, 391
-- sulphydrate, 142
Bark, 243, 244
Bark mills, 316, 452
Barytes, 390
Basic chrome liquors, 211, 241
-- salts, 187, 199
Bast, 243
Bastin, 244
Bate-shavings, 463
-- -stains, 176
Bating, 8, 19, 152, 170, 233
-- effect of water on, 107
Baudouin’s test, 365
Bearberry, 279
Becker, 172, 174
Bedda nuts, 282
Beeswax, 371
Beetle attacking hides, 42
“Bell”-mills, 317
Belting, 450
Benzene, 295
Benzoic acid, 29
Bernardin, 242
Betel nut, 248
_Betula_, 250
_Betulaceæ_, 250
Bichromate of potash, 201
Biernacki, 21
Bilberry, 280
Birch, 250
-- -tar oil, 32
Bistort, 266
Bisulphites, 25, 338
Biuret reaction, 67
Black-dyeing, 398, 399, 413
Bleunard, 57
Blood-albumen, 337
Bloom, 231, 297
Bluebacking, 217
Boarding, 233
Boiler incrustations, 99, 101
Boiling point, 75, 421
Bone-oil, 62
Book-binding leathers, 234
Boral, 155
Borax, 156, 216
Borgman, 181
Boric or boracic acid, 156
Bottle-tannage, 235
Bourgois, 57
_Brabium_, 268
Bran-drench, 166, 195
Brands, 43
Brazil-wood, 287, 413
Breaking stress of leathers, 451
Breed, effect on skin, 45
Brick pits, 455
Brining hides, 38
Briquettes of tan, 464
Bronzing, 395, 404
Brunton, 61
Brusca, 272, 280
Brushing machine, 226
Buff-leather, 378
“Buffalo” method, 129
Burns and Hull, 163
_Butea_, 285
Butyric acid, 61
_Byrsonima_, 269

C. T. bate, 163
Calcium sulphydrate, 140
Calculation of tannin analysis, 314
Calf-kid, 189
Calorie, 422
_Cambium_, 243
Camphor, 31
Canaigre, 264
-- root, extraction, 348
Carbolic acid, 26, 295
Carbolineum, 28
Carbon disulphide, 30
Carbonic acid, 99, 105, 161
Carboxyl, 295
Carr’s disintegrator, 319
Carter’s disintegrator, 319
Cascalote, 286
Casein, 68
Cassia, 235, 287, 299
_Castanea_, 251
_Casuarina_, 249
Catechins, 298
Catechol, 295
-- tannages, 234, 295
Catechu, 277, 289
Caustic alkalies, 22
-- soda, 114, 136
Cavallin, 202
Cavallo, 285
Cebil, 293
Cells, 10
Cellulose, 12
Centigrade thermometer, 481
Centrifugal pumps, 458
_Ceriops_, 283
Chain-conveyors, 325, 453
Chamois leather, 9, 378
-- -- dyeing, 496
Chamoising, 369, 378
Chemical deliming, 153
Chenailier evaporator, 424
Chestnut, 251
-- -oak, 254, 263
-- -wood extract, 222, 231
Chlorides in water, 104
Chondrin, 63
Chromalin, 212
Chrome-alum, 201
-- -blacks, 402
-- combination tannages, 215
-- -iron ore, 200
-- leather, 4, 9
-- -- dyes for, 494
-- tannages, 200
Chromic acid, 200
Chromium, 185, 200
Churco bark, 280
Clark, 95
_Cleistanthus_, 293
Coal-tar or C. T. bate, 29, 163
-- -- dyes, 394
_Coccoloba_, 267
_Cocos_, 249
Cockle, 45
_Cæsalpinia_, 285
Coffee-mill, 317
Cohn’s solution, 177
Colloids, 77, 396
Colour, theory of, 416
-- -measurement, 479
Colouring matters, 299
Colours, primary, 416
-- secondary, 416
-- tertiary, 416
Combination-tannages, 4, 236
_Combretaceæ_, 280, 293
Concentration of extracts, 339
Concrete pits, 455
Cone-mill, 317
_Coniferæ_, 246
Connective tissue, 50
_Conocarpus_, 283
Contact-beds, 472
Conveyors, 325, 327, 453
Copper in water, 104
-- sulphate, 26
_Coriariaceæ_, 277
_Coriaria_, 272, 277
_Corium_, 46
Coriin, 64
Cork, 244
_Cork-cambium_, 243
Cork oak, 257
Corrosive sublimate, 25
_Cortegia rossa_, 248
Couperus, 277
Creasote, 28
Creolin, 28
Cresotinic acid, 29, 162
Crown leather, 381
Crystallisation, 77
Crystalloids, 77
_Cupuliferæ_, 251
Curtidor bark, 280
Curupy bark, 293
Cutch, 289
Cuticle, 46
_Cutis_, 46
Cylinder-oils, 100

Danish glove-leather, 236, 238
_Daphne_, 267
Daphnoidæ, 267
Decoloration of extracts, 337
Degrees of hardness, 94, 105
Dégras, 368, 380
“Dégras-former,” 370, 385
Deliming by acids, 154
-- by washing, 154, 160
De Lof, 242
Denaturised salt, 23
Dennis, 163, 211
Depickling, 91
Depilation, 7, 54, 119
Depletion by puers and bates, 91
_Derma_, 46
_Dermestes vulpinus_, 42
“Devil disintegrator,” 318
Dextrose, 16
Diazo-compounds, 399
Digallic acid, 295
Diffusion, 78
Dippel’s oil, 62
Disc-mill, 317
Disinfectants, 21, 474
Disintegrators, 318
Dissociation, 85
Distilled grease, 359
Divi-divi, 285
Djaft, 263
Docks, 264
Dog-dung, 174, 179, 181
“Dogskin,” 197
Dongola, 197
-- imitations, 241
-- leather, 236, 239
Doornbosch, 293
Drench fermentation, 19
Drenching, 8, 20, 152, 166, 195, 233
_Drepanocarpus_, 285
Dressing-leather tannage, 232
-- leathers, 8
Driers for oils, 363
Drum-stuffing, 388
Drumming, 234
Drums, 117
Dry hides, 110
Drying, effect on skin, 112
-- hides, 41
-- leather, 424
-- oven, 308
-- rooms, 431
-- of sole leather, 232
Dry-salted hides, 110
-- -salting, 38
Dschigh dschighe, 286
Dubbing, 386
Dust-prevention, 325
Dye-testing, 419
Dyeing alumed leathers, 402
-- chrome leather, 403, 493
-- Continental method, 408
-- defects in, 404
-- in drum, 408
-- in paddle, 407
-- in tray, 406, 408
-- kid, 196
-- oil-leathers, 404
-- selection of goods, 409
-- theories of, 396
Dyes, acid, 395, 412
-- basic, 395, 411
-- lists of, for leather, 486, _et seq._
-- list of manufacturers, 485
-- mixtures for leather, 491
-- -woods, 412

Earp, W. R., 143
East India skins, 235, 238, 241
Eberle, 212
Edge-stones, 316
Effluents, 467
Egg-albumin, 67
-- -yolk, 68, 393
Eglinton Tanning Co., 203
Egyptian leathers, 2
_Einbrennen_, 390
Eitner, 105, 109, 112, 114, 131, 168, 205, 212, 216, 252, 366, 382,
392
Elandsboschjes, 293
Elastic fibres, 53, 69
Electric driving, 449
Electrolytes, 79
Electrolytic dissociation, 79
_Elephantorrhiza_, 293
Ellagic acid, 231, 297
Ellagitannic acid, 231, 297
Emulsifying, 240
Enzymes, 15, 16, 171, 173
_Epidermis_, 46, 68
_Epithelium_, 46
-- -cells, 13
_Erector pili_, 50
_Ericaceæ_, 279
“Erodin,” 174
Espinillo, 293
Essential oils, 31
_Eucalyptus_, 284
Eudermin, 27
_Euphorbiaceæ_, 293
Evaporation, 421
-- for analysis, 307
-- in _vacuo_, 423
Evaporator, Yaryan, 339
Evergreen oak, 256
Excise-duties on leather, 3
Extraction, _optimum_ temperature, 344
Extracts, liquid, analysis, 301, 305, 475, 476, 477
-- solid, analysis, 301, 305, 476, 477
-- use of, 342

Fading of colours, 405
Fahrion, 61
Faller-stocks, 116
Fan, Blackman, 428, 430, 434
-- Capel, 437
-- centrifugal, 437, 439
-- drying by, 433
-- screw, 430, 434, 437
Fat, 461, 462
-- -cells, 52
-- -glands, 48
-- -liquoring, 217, 237, 239, 393
-- -liquors, 100
-- -tanned leathers, 1, 4
Fats and oils, 350
-- solvents of, 353
Fatty acids, liquid, 354
-- -- saturated, 354
-- -- unsaturated, 355
Fellmongering, 34
Fermentation, 13, 15
Ferric chloride, 86
-- salts, 198
Ferrocyanides, 339
Ferrous salts, 198
Fibre-bundles, 50
Fibres, elastic, 53
Fibrils, 50
_Filao_ bark, 249
Filter method, 311, 478
Filtration for analysis, 307, 477, 483
-- of sludge, 470
“Fine-hairing,” 180
Finishes for leather, 401
Fire insurance, 325
Fish-tallow, 368
Flaying, 42
Fleshing, 8, 146
-- machines, 147
Fleshings, 461
Flückiger and Hanbury, 277
Fluorides, 26
“Foots,” 356
Formaldehyde, 30, 380
Formalin, 31, 380
Formic acid, 154, 159, 410
Frizing, 378
_Fuchsia_, 284
Fuchsine, 395
Fungi, 15
_Fusanus_, 267

Gall oak, 261
Gallotannic acid, 295
Galls, 261, 280
Gambier, 222, 231, 277
-- extraction, 349
_Garcinia_, 293
Gas-engine, 449
-- -lime, 141
Gaseous state of matter, 74
_Gaultheria_, 251, 373
Gelatin, 56, 58
-- action of bacteria on, 61
-- analyses, 57
-- chemical constitution, 57
-- decompositions, 60
-- determination, 59, 60
-- properties of, 58
-- reactions, 62
-- swelling of, 82
Glaeser mill, 318
Glassy layer, 50, 398
Glazing, 418
Globulin, 67
Globig, 17
Glove-kid, 194
Glucose, 13, 16, 177, 390
Glue, 461
Gluestuff, 461
Glutin, 56, 58
Glycerin, 351
“Golden spoon,” 269
-- tan bark, 248
Gonagra, 264
Grain, 233
-- “drawn,” 228
-- -layer, 51
-- microscopic examination, 52, 55
-- pattern of, 52
Grains of various skins, 52
_Granataceæ_, 285
Grease, recovery, 462
-- refining, 463
Greases, 357
“Green leather,” 197, 239
_Grevillia_, 268
Griffith, 231
Grinding machinery, 452
-- samples, 303, 476
Grounding, 189
Guano, 177
Gum tree, 284
Gumming, 20
_Guttiferæ_, 293
_Gunnera_, 284
_Gunneraceæ_, 284
Glycocine, 61
Glycocoll, 61

_Hæmatoxylon_, 286
Hair, 68, 460
-- -bulb, 49
-- -cuticle, 48, 49
-- -muscle, 50
-- -papilla, 49
-- structure and growth, 47
Hand-stuffing, 386
Handlers, 221
Hardness determination, 94
-- effect on dyeing, 100
-- effects on tanning, 98, 105
-- of water, 93
Harrison, 273, 473
Hauff, 157, 162, 163
Heal, 203
Heat, capacity for, 422
-- consumed in evaporation, 423, 428
-- -- in melting ice, 423
-- given by pipes, 432
-- loss through walls, 431
-- measure of quantity, 422
-- of combustion of coal, 423
Heating by hot water, 442
-- by steam, 432, 436, 440
Heath honeysuckle, 268
Heaths, 279
Hehner, 94
Heinzerling, 203
Helvetia leather, 381
Hemicollin, 60
Hemlock-bark, 222
Hen-dung, 179, 181
Henry, 95
“Hickory” bark, 291
Hide-fibre, analysis, 57
-- -markets, 33
-- -mill, 117
-- powder, 310, 312, 479, 484
-- -- filter, 311, 478
-- -- chromed, 313, 483
High-speed machinery, 451
Hofmeister, 56, 57, 60
Holbrook system, 331
Holden fat, 359
Horns, 464
Horn-sloughs, 464
Horny structures, 50
Horse-fat, 357
-- -flesh, 177
-- -power, 423
Hruschau, 214
Hull, 163, 165
Hummel, 203, 250, 285
Hunt, 188
Hyaline layer, 50, 176, 398
Hydrochloric acid, 86, 154, 157
Hydronaphthol, 30
_Hypoderma bovis_, 43
Hyposulphite of soda, 204
_Hyphæ_, 14

I.A.L.T.C. method, 300, 311, 475
Ice, heat to melt, 423
Ilex, 256
Immiscible liquid, 76
_Inga_, 293
Inks, 402
“Inoffensive,” 143
International Association of Leather Trade Chemists, 300, 311, 475
Internal pressure of liquids, 76
Invertase, 16
Iodine-value, 353
Ionisation-pressure, 81
Ions, 80
Iron-alum, 199
-- -bark tree, 284
-- -blacks, 398, 413
-- in water, 102
-- stains, 22, 38
-- tannages, 198
Izal, 28

Jamrosa bark, 282
Japans, 355
Jeye’s fluid, 28
Jellies, 77
Jensen, 241
Jones fleshing machine, 148
Juniper, 248

Kaspine leather, 380
Kath, 289
Kathreiner, 301
Kation, 80
Kent, 236
Keratin, 14, 56, 68
Kermes oak, 258
Kid-leather, 9
Kilogram, 481
Kips, soaking, 113
Kjeldahl’s method, 70, 179
Klemm, 381
Knapp, 74, 188, 199, 202, 210, 382
_Knoppern_, 262
Knotted tree, 268
Koch, 251
Koerner, 82, 91, 283
_Krameria_, 269

Lace-Leathers, 197
Lactic acid, 154, 158, 221, 410
-- fermentation, 18
Lamb, 218, 273, 405, 485
Land filtration, 470
Lanoline, 359
Lanosoap, 218
Larch, 247
_Larix_, 247
_Lauraceæ_, 267
Layers, 222, 231
Leach-bottom, 329
Leaching, 328
Lead-bleach, 399
-- in water, 104
Leather Industries Laboratory Book, 5
_Leguminosæ_, 288
Leidgen unhairing machine, 145
Lentisque, 269
_Leucadendron_, 268
Leucine, 61
_Leucospermum_, 268
Levulose, 16
Lewkowitsch, 366
Lietzmann, 382
L.I.L.B., 5
_Liliaceæ_, 248
Lime, 21, 120
-- action on hide, 125
-- analyses, 124
-- “available,” 125
-- -burning, 121
-- -liquors, analysis, 143
-- pits, 127, 455
-- quantity used, 129
-- solubility in water, 123
-- -water, 123
Limes, age of, 130
-- bacterial action in, 134
-- plumping, 133
Liming, 126
-- loss of hide-substance, 132
-- Pullman’s method, 137
-- sheep-skins, 34
-- temperature, 129
Linolenic acid, 355
Lipowitz, 59
Liquor-pipes, 456
Liquid state of matter, 74
Liquor tanks, 332, 457
-- -troughs, 333, 457
Liter, 481
Logwood, 286, 413, 398, 401
_Loxopteryngium_, 269
Lubrication, 453
Lufkin, Prof., 142
Lymph corpuscules, 10
Lysol, 28

McFadyen, 61
Madder, 239, 277
Maiden, 290
Magenta, 395
Magnesia, 95
_Malpighia_, 269
_Malpighiaceæ_, 269
Manganese, 185
_Mangifera_, 277
Mangle, 283
Mango, 277
Mangosteen, 293
Mangrove, 283
-- bark, extraction, 348
Mangrutta, 269
Market-hides, 33, 108
“Marking off,” 406
-- weight of hides, 33
Marsh Rosemary, 268
Mather and Platt, 97
Mauve, 394
Maynard, 114
“Mellowing” of liquors, 82
Mellowness of liquors, 229
Mercuric chloride, 25
-- iodide, 26
Metabisulphite of soda, 25, 114, 160
Meter, 481
Metrical system, 481
Milk-shaker, 313
Millon’s reagent, 67
Mill for samples, 303
Mills, arrangement of, 452
-- construction, 316
Mimosa, 231, 290
-- extraction, 346
_Mimoseæ_, 288
Mineral acids, 23
Moellon, 368, 380
Moisture in tanning materials, 314, 315, 479, 482
Molecules, 74
Mordant colouring matters, 238
Mordants, 398
Moulds, 14, 15, 20
Mountain ash, 285
Mucous layer, 47
Mud, 102
Muir, John, 141
Multiple effect, 342, 423
Munkwitz, 145
Muscle, voluntary, 53
_Mycoderma_, 14, 20
_Myrica_, 250
_Myricaceæ_, 250
Myrobalans, 231, 280, 293
-- crusher, 322
-- extraction, 345
_Myrtaceæ_, 284
_Myrtus_, 284

Nancite, 269
Naphthalene sulphonic acid, 29
Naphthols, 29
_Nauclea_, 277
Neb-neb, 289
Nesbitt’s bating process, 161
“Neutralising” chrome leathers, 216
Nihoul, 104
Nitrates and nitrites in water, 104
Nitrogen estimation, 70
“Non-tannins,” 310, 478, 483
Nucleolus, 11
Nucleus, 11

Oak-Bark, 222, 253
-- - -- extraction, 344
-- -twigs, 244
Oakwood, 254
-- extract, 222, 231, 256
Oaks, 252
_Œnothera_, 284
Oil, Arctic sperm, 371
-- birch, 372
-- black birch, 373
-- boiled linseed, 363
-- bottlenose, 371
-- castor, 353, 355, 360
-- cod-liver, 365
-- cottonseed, 364
-- egg-yolk, 393
-- from fats, 463
-- herring, 368
-- Japanese, 368
-- linseed, 362
-- menhaden, 367
-- neatsfoot, 358
-- olive, 359
-- porgie, 367
-- Russia, 372
-- sandalwood, 373
-- sardine, 368
-- sassafras, 373
-- seal, 367
-- sesamé, 364
-- shark-liver, 366
-- sod, 368, 380
-- sperm, 353, 371
-- Straits, 367
-- Three-crown, 367
-- Turkey-red, 361
-- vaseline, 375
-- whale, 367
-- wintergreen, 373
Oils and fats in currying, 384
-- blown, 355, 361
-- drying, 353
-- essential, 350, 372
-- fixed, 350
-- lubricating, 453
-- mineral, 374
-- non-drying, 353
-- resin, 376
-- volatile, 372
Oleic acid, 240, 354, 360
Oleine, 359
Oleostearine, 356, 359
_Onagraceæ_, 284
One-bath chrome process, 211
Organised ferments, 15
Origin of leather manufacture, 1
Osmotic pressure, 78
_Osyris_, 267
_Ovum_, development of, 46
Oxalates, 159
Oxalic acid, 155, 221
_Oxalideæ_, 280
_Oxalis_, 280
Oxynaphthoic acid, 30, 163
Ozokerit, 376

Paal, 57, 62, 66
Paessler, 56
Pairing, 407
Palmer, A. N., 167
Palmer, T., 176
Palmetto, 245
_Palmæ_, 248
Pancreatin, 172
_Panniculus adiposus_, 53
_Papilionaceæ_, 285
Paraffin, 375
Paraform, 31
Parapeptones, 66
_Parenchym_, 243
Parker, J. G., 162
Parker, C. E., 455
_Pars papillaris_, 51
“Partial” pressure, 76
Paypay, 293
Payne and Pullman, 137
Peaty waters, 106
_Penicillium_, 14
Pepsin, 171
Peptones, 60, 61, 62
Perching, 188
Perchromic acid, 200
Perkin, 250, 394
-- and Allen, 276
-- and Gunnell, 269
Permanent hardness, 100
_Persea_, 267
“Persians,” 235, 287, 299, 365
Phenol, 26
-- for deliming, 162
Phenols, 295
Phenolphthalein, 155
_Phloem_, 243
Phlobaphenes, 231
Phloroglucol, 295, 297
Phosphates, 159
_Phyllanthus_, 293
_Phyllocladus_, 248
Pickling, 23, 89, 187
Pigeon-dung, 178
Pilang, 290
_Pinus_, 246
Pipes, arrangement of, 436, 440
-- heat from, 432
_Piptadenia_, 293
_Pistacia_, 269, 272
Pits, construction of, 454
Plaster-cure of Indian kips, 39
Pleating, 407
_Plumbaginæ_, 268
_Podocarpus_, 248
Poison ivy, 274
_Polygalaceæ_, 269
Polygenetic colours, 399, 403
_Polygonaceæ_, 264
_Polygonum_, 266
Polysulphides, 165, 211
“Polysulphin,” 139
Pomegranate, 285
Poplars, 264
Popp, 172, 174
Porcelain, to mark, 304
Porter-Clark, 98
Potassium dichromate, 201
-- hydrate, 136
_Potentilla_, 285
Precipitation tanks, 468
Preller, 381
Press-leaches, 330
“Pricking,” 169
Primitive leather manufacture, 1, 73
Printing, 418
_Protaceæ_, 268
Procter, 203
Procter’s extractor, 306
_Prosopis_, 286
_Protea_, 268
Protocatechuic acid, 295
Protoplasm, 10
Pseudopodia, 11
_Pterocarpus_, 285
Puering, 8, 19, 152, 170, 233
Pulleys, 450
“pulling down,” 157
Pullman, 380
Pullman’s liming method, 137
Pulsometers, 459
Pumps, 457
_Punica_, 285
Putrefaction, 15, 19
Putrid soak, 113, 137
Putz, Dr., 69
Pyrogallol, 295
-- tannages, 234
-- tannins, 295
Pyroligneous acid, 154
Pyrrol, 62
_Pyrus_, 285

Quebracho, 231, 269, 277
-- wood, extraction, 347
Quercetin, 263
_Quercus_, 252
Quicklime, 122

Rabinowitsch, 17
Raw hide leather, 381
Realgar, 142
Reddening of leather by light, 405
“Reds,” 231, 297, 339
Reimer, 58, 64
Resin, 376
_Rete malpighi_, 47
Rhatany, 269
_Rhizophoraceæ_, 283
_Rhus_, 270
Riems, 381
Roans, 235
Rollet, 64
Rolling machines, 224
Roman leathers, 2
_Rosaceæ_, 285
Rosin, 376
Rounding, 151
_Rove_, 261
_Rubiaceæ_, 277
_Rumex_, 264
Rusma, 139
“Russia” leather, 251

_Sabal_, 248
_Saccharomyces_, 14, 20
Saccharomycetes, 15
Saddening, 398
_Salicaceæ_, 263
Salicylic acid, 28, 295
Saliva-corpuscles, 10
_Salix arenaria_, 238, 263
-- _caprea_, 239, 264
Salomon, 178
Salt, 22
-- and acids, action on gelatine, 88
-- -stains, 22, 38
Salts, action on hide, 84, 92
Salted hides, 109
Salting, 35
Sampling tanning materials, 301, 475
-- tool, 301
_Santalaceæ_, 267
Saponification, 351
Sappan-wood, 287
Saturated solutions, 77
_Saxifragaceæ_, 280
Schilling, 62
Schinia, 272
_Schinus_, 270
Schmeija mill, 318
Schulze, 178
Schultz, A., 203, 204
-- Jackson S., 112, 454, 456
Schutzenberger, 57
_Scilla_, 248
_Scorza rossa_, 248
Scouring, 384
-- machine, 384
Screening tanning materials, 323
Scudding, 180
Sea lavender, 268
Seagrave-Bevington dryer, 438
Seaside grape, 267
Seasonings, 418
Sebaceous glands, 48
Semiglutin, 60
Semipermeable membranes, 78
_Senna_, 288
_Septa_, 14
Septic tank, 472
Settling tanks, 468
Sewage, 467
-- purification, 468
Shafting, 448, 450
Shake-method, 312, 483
Shaving, 384
-- machine, 384, 386
-- mill, 323
Sheep-skins, 34
Shellac glaze, 401
Silent boiling jets, 334, 343
Silicic acid in water, 104
Silver fir, 246
Skens, 272
Skin, structure, 46
Skivers, alumed, 197
Skutch, 462
Slaking of lime, 122
Slocomb staking machine, 192
Sludge, 470
Smoked leathers, 2
Snakeweed, 266
Snoubar bark, 248
Soaking and washing, 7
-- of hides, 108
-- with caustic soda, 114
Soaps, 351
-- cold process, 352
Soap test, 94
Society of Arts, 234
Soda in water, 103
Sodium bisulphate, 155
-- carbonate, 139
-- hydrate, 136
-- silicate, 216
-- sulphate, 23, 41
-- sulphide, 114, 139
-- thiosulphate, 204, 213, 216
Sole-leather tanning, 220
Solid solution, 83, 396
-- state of matter, 74
Solubility of liquids, 76
Solution-pressure, 76, 78
Soluble phenyl, 28
_Sorbus_, 285
Souring, 410
Spent tan, 329, 464
-- tans, analysis, 480
Spermaceti, 371
Splitting, 384
Sprinkler, 446
-- -leach, 336
Spruce fir, 246
Spueing, 20, 353, 355, 390
Squill, 248
Staining, 415
-- dyes suitable for, 486, 491
Stains caused by hard water, 99
-- on sole-leather, 227
Staking, 188
-- machines, 192
Staling, 34
Stanhope, 98
_Statice_, 268
Steam-engine, 423, 433, 448
-- - -- indicator, 449
-- -pumps, 457
-- -traps, 442
Stearic acid, 351
Stearin, 351, 359
Stearine glaze, 401, 415
Stenhouse, 296
Sterilisation, 18
Stinco, 272
_Stippen_, 109
Stocking, 180
Stocks, 116
-- for unhairing, 145
Stone-cells, 245
-- pits, 454
Striking, 223
-- machine, 223
Stringy bark tree, 284
Structure of skin, 46
Stuffing, 386
-- drum, 388
Sturtevant dryer, 438
Sudoriferous glands, 49
Sugar-bush, 268
Sulphate of soda, 23
Sulphates in water, 104
Sulphide of sodium, 34, 132, 139, 165
Sulphides, 139
Sulphur dioxide, 23
-- in chrome-leather, 216
Sulphonated oils, 361
Sulphuric acid, 114, 154, 157, 410
Sulphurous acid, 23, 114, 338
Sumach, 234
-- Cape, 267
-- extraction, 347
-- French, 277
-- Sicilian, 270
-- Venetian, 276
Sumachs, American, 273
Sumaching, 410, 411
Supersaturated solutions, 77
Surface-tension, 76
Suspenders, 221, 227, 232
Suspension lime-pit, 128
Swan, 202
Sweat-glands, 49
-- -pit, 119
Sweating, 1, 19, 34, 119
Swedish glove-leather, 236, 238
Swelling, 82, 84

Tallow, 356
-- fish, 368
_Tamarix_, 272, 280
_Tamarisciniæ_, 280
Tamwood, 269
Tan as fuel, 464
-- -burning furnaces, 464
-- -press, 467
_Tanekahi_ bark, 248
Tanghadi bark, 287
Tank-waste, 141
Tannery, construction, 445
-- extension, 447
-- fire risks, 446, 452
-- selection of site, 444
Tannin colour-lakes, 397
-- materials, extraction, 305
-- -- sampling, 302
“Tanning matters,” 311, 478, 483
Tannins, 242, 294, 397
-- pathological, 298
-- physiological, 298
Tari pods, 286
Tartar emetic, 411
Tawing, 191, 196
Temperature, 422
-- in leaching, 343
Temporary hardness, 94, 154, 411
Tengah bark, 283
Teri pods, 286
_Terminalia_, 280
Terra japonica, 277
Thann tree, 282
Thermophilic bacteria, 17
Tinian pine, 249
Tintometer, 315, 479
Titanium, 185, 218, 411, 495
Tjamara laut, 249
Topping, 406
_Tormentilla_, 285
_Torula_, 14
“Total soluble” matter, 307, 477, 478
Treacle, 177
Tri-formol, 31
Trimble, 263
Trioxymethylene, 31
Trypsin, 171, 172
_Tsuga_, 246
Tub-leaches, 331
Tugwar, 293
Turkey oak, 255, 256
-- -red oil, 217, 240
Turwar bark, 235, 287
Turret-dryer, 439
Two-bath chrome process, 204, 213, 216
Tyrosin, 66

Unhairing, 7, 54, 143
-- machines, 144
Unorganised ferments, 15, 16
Used liquors, analysis, 480

Vacciniæ, 280
_Vaccinium_, 280
Vacuoles, 13
Vacuum-oven, 308
-- pans, 342
Valdivia leather, 267
Valonia, 222, 231, 258
-- extraction, 345, 346
Valve, 457
-- for liquor troughs, 333
Van Tieghem, 243
Vapour-pressure, 75, 421
Vaseline, 375
Vaughn fleshing machine, 145, 148
Vegetable-tanned leathers, 2, 3
Velocity of gaseous molecules, 75
Ventilation and heating, 429
-- downward, 440
Verbeek and Peckholdt, 310
Vibration, 452
Vitellin, 67
_Vitis_, 272
Von Höhnel, 242
-- Schroeder, 56, 129, 134

Wagner, 298
Warbles, 43
Ward, H. Marshall, 243
Wash-wheel, 108, 118, 180
-- -- for unhairing, 145
Washing of hides, 108, 111
Waste liquids, 467
Water, condensed, 442
-- hardness, 93
-- impurities, 93
-- oven, 308
-- raisers, 459
-- softening, 95, 101
Wattles, 290
Wax, bees-, 371
-- Brazilian, 372
-- carnauba, 372
-- Japan, 372
-- mineral, 374
-- paraffin, 375
Waxes, 350, 353, 370
-- liquid, 350, 353, 371
Weak grain, 108
Weighing for analysis, 304
_Weimannia_, 280
Weiske, 63
“Wet and dry bulb” thermometer, 426
“White bark,” 293
-- leathers, 197
-- or gelatinous fibres, 50
-- spruce, 247
Wichellow and Tebbutt, 241
Wild almond, 268
Williams’ patent crusher, 320
Willow-bark, 238
Willows, 263
Wilson, 223, 224, 440
Wind, 427, 439
Windbores, 459
Wood, J. T., 166, 171
Woolfat, 358
Woolly butt tree, 284
“Working,” 180

Xanthoproteic acid, 67

Yaryan evaporator, 339, 424
Yeast, 12
Yeasts, 15
Yellow fibres, 53, 69
Yolk of egg, 68
Yorkshire grease, 359
Youl, 231
Young hair, 144

Zinc chloride, 26
-- sulphate, 26, 159
Zollickoffer, 160
Zymases, 15, 16, 17, 61, 296

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,

GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W., AND DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E.

Transcriber’s Notes

Inconsistent and unusual spelling, hyphenation, etc. (including in
names and non-English words) have been retained, except as mentioned
below.

The original work does not have a Fig. 17.

Page 199, (It must be distinctly understood ...: the closing bracket
is missing in the source document.

Page 223: ... tool of triangular section shown in Fig. 29: the
reference should possibly be to Fig. 27 (or 30).

Page 267, kruppelboom: should possibly read kreupelboom.

Changes made:

Footnotes, illustrations, and tables have been moved outside text
paragraphs.

The following phrases have been standardised: C. T. bate and C.T. bate
to C.T. bate (cole-tar); c.c. and cc. to c.c. (cubic centimetre);
Liége and Liège to Liège. Pullman and Pullmans to Pullman; Huxham and
Brown and Huxham and Browns to Huxham and Browns; Kjehldahl and
Kjeldahl to Kjeldahl; Körner and Koerner to Koerner.

Where useful for clarity’s sake, Ibid. in literature references has
been replaced with the actual (abbreviated) title.

Some obvious minor typographical errors have been corrected silently;
accents in French and German words have not been corrected or added.

Page 40: In the re-renewal ... changed to In the renewal ...
Page 64: Chrondrin changed to Chondrin
Page 74: Die Natur und Wesen ... changed to Natur und Wesen ...
Page 139: Na₂S,9OH₂ changed to Na₂S·9OH₂
Page 248: footnote anchor removed from after ... by cork lamellæ
(there is no footnote in the original work).
Page 252: ... and the more colouring matter is contained ... changed
to ... the more colouring matter is contained ...
Page 253: ... and the better the bark changed to ... the better the
bark
Page 272: Ailantus gladulosa changed to Ailantus glandulosa
Page 310: Verbeck changed to Verbeek
Page 329: ... is shown in Fig. 86 changed to ... is shown in Fig. 77
Page 361: Benedict changed to Benedikt
Page 400: Claus and Ree changed to Claus and Rée
Page 429: 44°3 F. changed to 44·3° F.
Page 451: kilos per cm² × 14·22 = lb. per inch changed to kilos per
cm² × 14·22 = lb. per inch²
Page 486: Acid green B.B. changed to Acid green BB.
Page 501: Blue-backing changed to Bluebacking
Page 507: Oxalic acid, page number 155 corrected
Page 508: Pay-pay changed to Paypay; Phylocladus changed to
Phyllocladus; Protacæ changed to Protaceæ
Page 509: Schutzenberger changed to Schützenberger
Page 512, Zymases: page numbers 17, 61, 296 inserted
Index: some entries moved to their proper place.