Chapter XXIV: The Fascination of Russia

From 1912 until the summer of 1914 I spent the greater part of the year in Russia. I was no longer doing journalistic work, but I was still writing books on Russian life and literature. The longer I stayed in Russia, the more deeply I felt the fascination of the country and the people. In one of his books Gogol has a passage apostrophising his country from exile, and asking her the secret of her fascination. “What is,” he says, “the inscrutable power which lies hidden in you? Why does your aching, melancholy song echo forever in my ears? Russia, what do you want of me? What is there between you and me?”

The question has often been repeated, not only by Russians in exile, but by foreigners who have lived in Russia, and I have often found myself asking it. The country has little obvious glamour and attraction. In Russia, as Gogol says, the wonders of Nature are not made more wonderful by man; there are no spots where Nature, art, and time combine to take the heart with beauty; where association, and even decay are indistinguishably mingled; and Nature is not only beautiful but picturesque; where time has worked magic on man’s handiwork, and history has left behind a host of phantoms.

There are many such places in France and in England, in Italy, Spain, and Greece, but not in Russia. Russia is a country of colonists, where life has been a perpetual struggle against the inclemency of the climate, and where the political history is the record of a desperate battle against adverse circumstances. Russia’s oldest city was sacked and burnt just at the moment when it was beginning to flourish; her first capital was destroyed by fire in 1812; her second capital dates from the seventeenth century; stone houses are rare in the country, and the wooden houses are frequently destroyed by fire. It is a country of long winters and fierce summers, of rolling plains, uninterrupted by mountains and unvariegated by valleys.

But the charm is there. It is felt by people of different nationalities and races; it is difficult, if you live in Russia, to escape it, and once you have felt it, you will never be quite free from it. The melancholy song, which Gogol says wanders from sea to sea over the length and breadth of the land, will echo in your heart and haunt the corner of your brain. It is impossible to analyse charm, for if charm could be analysed it would cease to exist; and it is difficult to define the character of places where beauty makes so little instantaneous appeal, and where there is no playground of romance, and few ghosts of poetry and of history.

Turgeniev’s descriptions of the country give an idea of this peculiar magic. For instance, the story of the summer night, when on the plain the children tell each other bogy tales; or the description of that other July evening, when out of the twilight, a long way off on the plain, a child’s voice is heard calling: “Antropka—a—a,” and Antropka answers: “Wha—a—a—a—a—at?” and far away out of the immensity comes the answering voice: “Come ho—ome, because daddy wants to whip you.”

Those who travel in their arm-chair will meet in Turgeniev with glimpses, episodes, pictures, incidents, sayings and doings, touches of human nature, phases of landscape, shades of atmosphere, which contain the secret and the charm of Russia. All who have travelled in Russia not only recognise the truth of his pictures, but agree that the incidents which he records with incomparable art are a common experience to those who have eyes to see. The picturesque peculiar to countries rich in historical traditions is absent in Russia; but beauty is not absent, and it is often all the more striking from its lack of obviousness.

This was brought home to me strongly in the summer of 1913. I was staying in a small wooden house in Central Russia, not far from a railway, but isolated from other houses, and at a fair distance from a village. The harvest was nearly done. The heat was sweltering. The country was parched and dry. The walls and ceilings were black with flies. One had no wish to venture out of doors until the evening.

The small garden of the house, gay with asters and sweet-peas, was surrounded by birch trees, with here and there a fir tree in their midst. Opposite the little house, a broad pathway, flanked on each side by a row of tall birch trees, led to the margin of the garden, which ended in a steep grass slope, and a valley, or a wooded dip; and beyond it, on the same level as the garden, there was a pathway half hidden by trees; so that from the house, if you looked straight in front of you, you saw a broad path, with birch trees on each side of it, forming a proscenium for a wooded distance; and if anybody walked along the pathway on the farther side of the dip, although you saw no road, you could see the figures in outline against the sky, as though they were walking across the back of a stage.

Just as the cool of the evening began to fall, out of the distance came a rhythmical song, ending on a note that seemed to last for ever, piercingly clear and clean. The music came a little nearer, and one could distinguish first a solo chanting a phrase, and then a chorus taking it up, and finally, solo and chorus became one, and reached a climax on a high note, which grew purer and stronger, and more and more long drawn-out, without any seeming effort, until it died away.

The tone of the voices was so high, so pure, and at the same time so peculiar, strong and rare, that it was difficult at first to tell whether the voices were tenors, sopranos, or boyish trebles. They were unlike, both in range and quality, the voices of women one usually heard in Russian villages. The music drew nearer, and it filled the air with a majestic calm. Presently, in the distance, beyond the dip between the trees, and in the middle of the natural stage made by the garden, I saw, against the sky, figures of women walking slowly in the sunset, and singing as they walked, carrying their scythes and their wooden rakes with them; and once again the phrase began and was repeated by the chorus; and once again chorus and solo melted together in a high and long-drawn-out note, which seemed to swell like the sound of a clarion, to grow purer, more single, stronger and fuller, till it ended suddenly, sharply, as a frieze ends. The song seemed to proclaim rest after toil, and satisfaction for labour accomplished. It was like a hymn of praise, a broad benediction, a grace sung for the end of the day: the end of the summer, the end of the harvest. It expressed the spirit of the breathless August evening.

The women walked past slowly and disappeared into the trees once more. The glimpse lasted only a moment, but it was enough to start a long train of thought and to call up pictures of rites, ritual, and custom; of rustic worship and rural festival, of Pagan ceremonies older than the gods.

As another verse of what sounded like a primeval harvest hymn began, the brief glimpse of the reapers, erect and majestic in the dress of toil, and laden with the instruments of the harvest, the high quality of the singing:

“The undisturbed song of pure concent,”

made the place into a temple of august and sacred calm in the quiet light of the evening. The sacerdotal figures that passed by, diminutive in the distance, belonged to an archaic vase or frieze. The music seemed to seal a sacrament, to be the initiation into an immemorial secret, into some remote mystery—who knows?—perhaps the mystery of Eleusis, or into still older secrecies of which Eleusis was the far-distant offspring. A window had been opened on to another phase of time, on to another and a brighter world; older than Virgil, older than Romulus, older than Demeter—a world where the spring, the summer, and the autumn, harvest-time, and sowing, the gathering of fruits and the vintage, were the gods; and through this window came a gleam from the golden age, a breath from the morning and the springtide of mankind.

When I say that the singing called up thoughts of Greece, the thing is less fantastic than it seems. In the first place, in the songs of the Russian peasants, the Greek modes are still in use: the Dorian, the hypo-Dorian, the Lydian, the hypo-Phrygian. “La musique, telle qu’elle était pratiquée en Russie au moyen age” (writes M. Soubier in his _History of Russian Music_), “tenait à la tradition des religions et des mœurs païennes.” And in the secular as well as in the ecclesiastical music of Russia there is an element of influence which is purely Hellenic. It turned out that the particular singers I heard on that evening were not local, but a guild of women reapers who had come from the government of Tula to work during the harvest. Their singing, although the form and kind of song were familiar to me, was different in quality from any that I had heard before; and the impression made by it unforgettable.

Nature in Russia is, broadly speaking, monotonous and uniform, but this does not mean that beauty is rare. Not only magic moments occur in the most unpromising surroundings, but beauty is to be found in Russian nature and Russian landscape at all times and all seasons in many shapes.

For instance: a long drive in the evening twilight at harvest-time, over the immense hedgeless rolling plains, through stretches of golden wheat and rye, variegated with millet, still green and not yet turned to the bronze colour it takes later; when you drive for miles over monotonous and yet ever-varying fields, and when you see, in the distance, the cranes, settling for a moment, and then flying off into space.

Later in the twilight, continents of dove-coloured clouds float in the east, the west is tinged with the dusty afterglow of the sunset; and the half-reaped corn and the spaces of stubble are burnished and glow in the heat; and smouldering fires of weeds burn here and there; and as you reach a homestead, you will perhaps see by the threshing-machine, a crowd of dark men and women still at their work; and in the glow from the flame of a wooden fire, in the shadow of the dusk, the smoke of the engine and the dust of the chaff, they have a Rembrandt-like power; the feeling of space, breadth, and air and immensity grows upon one; the earth seems to grow larger, the sky to grow deeper, and the spirit is lifted, stretched, and magnified.

Russian poets have celebrated more frequently the spring and winter—the brief spring which arrives so suddenly after the melting of the snows, with the intense green of the birch-trees, the uncrumpling fern; woods carpeted with lilies of the valley; the lilac bushes, the nightingale, and later the briar, which flowers in profusion; and the winter: the long drives in a sledge under a leaden sky to the tinkle of monotonous bells; a whistling blizzard with its demons, that lead the horses astray in the night; transparent woods black against an immense whiteness; or covered with snow and frozen, an enchanted fabric against the stainless blue; or, when after a night of thaw, the brown branches emerge once more covered with airy threads and sparkling drops of dew.

The sunset and twilight of the winter evening after the first snow had fallen in December used to be most beautiful. The new moon, like a little sail on a cold sea, tinged with a blush as it reached the earth, flooded the snow with light, and added to its purity; the snow had a blue glint in it and showed up the wooden houses, the red roofs, the farm implements in a bold relief; so that all these prosaic objects of everyday life assumed a strange largeness and darkness as they loomed between the earth and the sky.

What I used to enjoy more than anything in Russia were the summer afternoons on the river near Sosnofka, where the flat banks were covered with oak-trees, ash, willow, and thick undergrowth; and where every now and then, perch rose to the surface to catch flies, and the kingfishers skimmed over the surface from reach to reach. Sometimes I used to take a boat and row past islands of rushes, and a network of water-lilies, to where the river broadened; and I reached a great sheet of water flanked by a weir and a mill. The trees were reflected in the glassy surface, and nothing broke the stillness but the grumbling of the mill and the cries of the children bathing.

Near the village, all through the summer night (this was in June 1914), I used to hear song answering song, and the brisk rhythm of the accordion; or the interminable humming, buzzing burden of the three-stringed _balalaika_; verse succeeded verse of an apparently tireless song, and the end of each verse seemed to beget another and give a keener zest to the next; and the song waxed faster and madder, as if the singer were intoxicated by the sound of his own music.

But the peculiar manifestations of the beauty of nature in a flat and uniform country are not enough to account for the fascination of Russia. Beauty is a part of it, but it is not all. Against these things in the other scale you had to put dirt, squalor, misery, slovenliness, disorder, and the uninspiring wooden provincial towns, the dusty or sodden roads, the frequent grey skies, the long and heavy sameness.

The _advocatus diaboli_ had a strong case. He could have drawn up a powerful indictment, not only against the political conditions, and the arbitrary and uncertain administration, but also against the character of the people; he could mention the moral laxity, the extravagant self-indulgence, the lack of control, the jealousy which hounded any kind of superiority; and looked with suspicion on all that was original or distinguished; the dead level of mediocrity; the stereotyped bureaucratic pattern which you could not escape from. The Russians, he would say, had all the faults of the Orient without any of its austerer virtues; Russia, he would say, was a nation of ineffectual rebels under the direction of a band of corrupt and time-serving officials. The indictment was true, but however glaring the faults which Russian moralists, satirists, and politicians used so frequently and so loudly to deplore, the faults that used to make foreigners in Russia so angry at times, they seemed to me the negative results of positive qualities so valuable as to outweigh them altogether.

During my stays in Russia I saw some of the worst as well as some of the best aspects of the country and its people. The net result of all I saw and all I experienced was the sense of an overpowering charm in the country, an indescribable fascination in the people. The charm was partly due to the country itself, partly to the manner of life lived there, and partly to the nature of the people. The qualities that did exist, and whose benefit I experienced, seemed to me the most precious of all qualities; the virtues the most important of all virtues; the glimpses of beauty the rarest in kind; the songs and the music the most haunting and most heart-searching; the poetry nearest to nature and man; the human charity nearest to God.

This is perhaps the secret of the whole matter, that the Russian soul is filled with a human Christian charity which is warmer in kind and intenser in degree, and expressed with a greater simplicity and sincerity, than is to be met with in any other people; it was the existence of this quality behind everything else which gave charm to Russian life (however squalid the circumstances might be), poignancy to its music, sincerity and simplicity to its religion, manners, intercourse, music, singing, verse, art, acting—in a word to its art, its life, and its faith.

Never did I realise this so much as one day when I was driving on a cold and damp December evening in St. Petersburg in a cab. It was dark, and I was driving along the quays from one end of the town to the other. For a long time I drove in silence, but after a while I happened to make some remark to the cabman about the weather. He answered gloomily that the weather was bad and so was everything else too. For some time we drove on in silence, and then in answer to some other stray remark or question of mine he said he had been unlucky that day in the matter of a fine. It was a trivial point, but somehow or other my interest was aroused, and I got him to tell me the story, which was a case of bad luck and nothing serious; but when he had told it, he gave such a profound sigh that I asked whether it was that which was still weighing upon him. Then he said “No,” and slowly began to tell me a story of a great catastrophe which had just befallen him. He possessed a little land, and a cottage in the country, not far from St. Petersburg. His house had been burnt. It was true the house was insured, but the insurance was not sufficient to make an appreciable difference. He had two sons; one went to school, and the other had some employment in the provinces. The catastrophe of the fire had upset everything. All his belongings had perished. He could no longer send his boy to school. His second son, in the country, had written to say he was engaged to be married, and had asked his consent, advice, and approval. “He has written twice,” said the cabman, “and I keep silence (_i ya molchu_). What can I answer?” I cannot give any idea of the strength, simplicity, and poignancy of the tale as it came, hammered out slowly, with pauses between each sentence, with a dignity of utterance and a purity of idiom which used to be the precious privilege of the poor in Russia. The words came as if torn out from the bottom of his heart. He made no complaint; there was no grievance, no whine in the story. He stated the bald facts with a simplicity which was overwhelming. In spite of all, his faith in God and his consent to the will of Providence was unshaken, certain, and sublime.

This happened in 1911. I have forgotten the details; but I knew I had been face to face with a human soul, stripped and naked, and a human soul in the grip of a tragedy. This experience, which brought one in touch with the divine, is one which, I think, could only in such circumstances occur in Russia. I wrote this in the year 1913 when I was summing up my impressions on Russian life, and trying to analyse the nature of the fascination the country had for me. When I had finished, I echoed the words which R. L. Stevenson once addressed to a French novelist: “J’ai beau admirer les autres de toute ma force, c’est avec vous que je me complais à vivre.”

In the spring of 1914 I went back to Russia for the last time before the war. I spent over a month by myself at Sosnofka, writing a book, an outline of Russian literature, and bathing every afternoon in the river where the sweetbriar grew on the banks by the willows, and the kingfisher used every now and then to dart across the oily-looking water.

It was a wonderful spring. The nightingales sang all day long in the garden; and all night long people were singing in the village. Nature was steeped in beauty and calm. It was a month of accidental retreat before tremendous events and the changing of the world.

I knew nothing of public events, but I was suddenly seized with the desire to go home. I debated whether to go or not. I had finished my book, but as I meant to come back to Russia in August it seemed perhaps foolish to go. I thought I would leave it to chance. I decided to take the _Sortes Shakespearianæ_. I opened a volume at random, and my pencil fell on the phrase: “Pack and be gone” (_Comedy of Errors_, iii. 2, 158). I waited another day and repeated the experiment. My pencil again fell on the same line. Then I settled to go. I started one evening, and in the morning when I arrived at the Friedrichsstrasse Station at Berlin, I saw in the newspapers the news of the assassination of the Austrian Archduke. I might have said: “Incipit vita nova,” but I didn’t. I didn’t even think it. I was merely conscious of a small cloud on an otherwise stainless sky.

FOOTNOTES

[1]

“Libre, je rends visite à la terre, aux étoiles;
Sur la Tamise en feu je suis ces blanches voiles.”

_Les Enfants d’Édouard_, Act III. Sc. 1. CASIMIR DELAVIGNE.

[2] It is by Thackeray.

[3] I have looked up the reference and miraculously found it. My memory after thirty-three years is correct. The phrase occurs in Xenophon’s _Anabasis_, Book II. v. 27.

[4] When he died at Sofia, he was canonized as a national hero, and his head now appears on some of the Bulgarian postage stamps.

[5]

“Non vides, quanto moveas periclo,
Pyrrhe, Gaetulæ catulos leaenæ?”

HORACE, _Odes_, Book III. Ode XX.

[6] I don’t know the correct spelling of this word and it is not in the dictionary.

[7] Or “_Spinnen_.”

[8] There is nothing remarkable in the verse, but as a piece of dramatic action the speech was supremely effective.

[9] Théodore de Banville apropos of this performance, said about Sarah Bernhardt: “Elle a reçu la qualité d’être toujours, et quoi qu’elle veuille faire, absolument et inconsciemment lyrique.” Prophetic words!

[10] By a strange irony of fate, this tune, which the revolutionaries have made their own, was originally an official tune, composed probably by some obscure military bandmaster, and played at the funerals of officers and high officials. It became afterwards the national anthem of the Bolsheviks.

[11] _i.e._ K.D.’s—constitution in Russian beginning with a “K.”

[12] 17th August, battle of Liaoyang.

[13] A palace and a park in the neighbourhood belonged to the Duchess of Edinburgh, whose name was Marie Alexandrovna.

[14] Incorrect Russian, meaning “There is not, good.”

[15] A. C. Swinburne.

INDEX

A.D.C., the, 144, 153.

A. R. at Cambridge, 146.

_Abbé Constantin (L’)_, 92, 305.

Abdul Hamid, dethroned, 397.

Abingdon, 142.

Acropolis, Athens, 254, 256.

Addington, 138.

_Adonaïs_, Shelley, 161, 163.

_Adrienne Lecouvreur_, 232;
produced by Sarah Bernhardt, 305;
Scribe and Legouvé’s, 308-9.

_Adventures of Sophy_, Violet Fane, 247.

Afoo, Chinese servant, 276, 279-80.

Agadir crisis, 212.

_Agincourt_, Admiral Glyn’s ship, 47.

_Aiglon (L’)_, 233, 243;
first performance, the Hon. Maurice Baring’s article in the
_Speaker_, 199-204;
Sarah Bernhardt in, 305.

Ainger’s (House), Eton, 88.

Airlie, Lady, 62.

Aladin, deputy, 340, 347.

Albani, Madame, 27, 52.

Albanians in Uskub, 415-16.

Albert Hall, 26, 139.

⸺ Prince, 131.

Albo, Pomeranian, 39.

Alexander, butler, 220, 223.

⸺ comic actor, 136.

Alexandra, Queen, 348;
visit to Copenhagen, 225-26.

Alexandria, 168.

Alexandrovna, Marie, 348 _note_.

Alexei, boot-boy, 220.

Alexeieff, Viceroy, 263.

_Alice in Wonderland_, 170.

Allen, Mr. J., 154.

Alt, Miss, at San Stefano, 421-29 _passim_.

_Amants_, Maurice Donnay, 166.

_Âme païenne (L’)_, Brewster, 250.

American-Spanish War, 71.

_Amour de l’Art_, Labiche, 86.

Andersen, Hans, 208.

Anderson, Mary, in _The Lady of Lyons_, 53-54.

Anderton’s Hotel, 151.

André, watchman, 220, 222.

_Andromaque_, 243.

_Angelo_, Hugo, 305.

Angelo, Michael, a farmhouse of, 167.

Angers, 198.

_Anglo-Saxon Review_, poem by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 198.

_Anna Karenina_, 219.

Annie, nursemaid, 2, 8, 19, 37.

Annunzio, Gabriele d’, poems, 140, 232;
Vernon Lee on, 187;
_La Gioconda_, 305, 309;
proposed dramatic version of _Paolo and Francesca_, 246.

Antoine, actor, 197.

⸺ Théâtre, 265.

Antrim, Lord, 24.

Apostles, Society of the, 145-46.

April Fools’ Day memories, 24-25.

Apron Stage, use in Copenhagen theatres, 210.

Aranci Bay, 395.

Arbuthnot, 68.

Archangel, 358, 360.

Archer, Fred, 83.

Archibald, photographer, 276-77.

Arena Nazionale, Florence, 311.

Army, the Russian, condition at opening of the Duma, 340-41;
discontent, 353.

⸺ the Turkish, weapons of the, 413.

Arnaut refugees, 416.

Arnim, Frau von, 136.

Arnold, Matthew, 110, 112, 414.

Art Theatre, Moscow, 265-66, 323-24.

Artemis, Mr. Gladstone’s lecture on, 108.

Arthur, Port, 263, 314.

Arundel Park, a May night, 4-5.

_As in a Looking-Glass_, 93-94, 232.

Ascot, the school at, 68-86.

⸺ races, 79-80.

Ashburton, Lady, 26.

⸺ Lord, 62.

Asquith, Raymond, _The North Street Gazette_, 390-95.

Assisi, earthquake at, 158-59.

Assiz Bey, 397.

Assumption, Cathedral of the, Moscow, 334-35.
Astrakan, the journey to, 375-79;
atmosphere, 380.

_Astrophel_, Swinburne, 148.

_Atalanta_, newspaper, 112.

_Athalie_, 233, 235-36.

Athens, 254-56.

⸺ Eton, 117.

Atkins, Dr., 41.

Aurèle, Madame, 66.

Austria, Archduke of, assassinated, 438.

_Aventurière (L’)_, 230.

Bach, “Passion Music of St. Matthew,” 103.

Bachelors’ Club, 139.

Baden, Grand Duchess of, 216.

Bagshot, 76.

Baikal, Lake, 269-70, 311.

Baines, Dr., 427.

Balakirev, Russian folk-songs, 408.

Balfour, Reginald, at Angers, 198-99.

Balkan War, 1912, 395.

Balliol, 170-72.

Ballooning experiences, 204-5.

Balzac, 94, 141.

Banck, M., 98.

Bancrofts, the, 51, 53.

Banville, Théodore de, 228;
on Sarah Bernhardt, 229 _note_;
_Camées Parisiens_, 243;
_La Femme de Claude_, 306.

_Barbier de Seville_, 310.

Baretta, acting of, 93, 230.

Bariatinsky, Princess, 247.

Baring Brothers, the financial crisis, 1890, 113.

⸺ General, 62.

⸺ Rowland, 82.

⸺ the Hon. Cecil, 13, 14, 27, 46, 48, 54, 58, 65, 107.

⸺ the Hon. Elizabeth, 9-13, 22-25, 32, 38, 43-44;
at Ascot, 79-80;
marriage, 85-86;
house of, 113.

⸺ the Hon. Everard, 13, 14, 32, 37, 65;
the “Imp,” 40;
at Eton, 46, 48-49.

⸺ the Hon. Hugo, boyhood, 2-3, 9, 11, 14, 16, 21, 23, 26;
in the schoolroom, 36-41;
yachting, 44;
Mr. Warre and, 46;
Membland, 59-60;
Marlborough House parties, 80;
Ascot school, 81;
Eastbourne, 82;
“Miss Hastings,” 83;
the game of “Spankaboo,” 83-84;
Cowes, 85;
Paris, 93;
Eton, 105, 107, 113, 115.

Baring, the Hon. John (now Lord Revelstoke), 13, 14, 20, 27, 44-46,
65, 68, 102, 107, 135.

⸺ the Hon. Margaret (married Robert Spencer), 8-12, 21-23, 35,
43-44, 85, 107-8.

⸺ the Hon. Susan, 9-13, 16, 21, 23-25, 35, 44, 74, 85, 86, 91-94.

⸺ Windham, 82.

Barnay, Ludwig, 136.

Barnby, Mr. Joseph, organist, 102-3.

Barnes Pool, 95.

_Barrack Room Ballads_, Kipling, 148.

Bartet in _Le Père Prodigue_, 140;
in _Bérénice_, 192.

Bastille, the, 93.

Bath, visits to, 76, 130.

⸺ House, 26, 85.

Battery Cottage, 40.

Bauman, death, 320;
funeral, 321-22.

Bayreuth Festival, 133-35, 153-54, 168.

Beardsley, Aubrey, 144, 149.

Béarn, Madame de, 254.

Beauchamp, editor of the _Eton Review_, 111.

Beeching, Mr., 148.

Beerbohm, Max, 147-48, 155;
on Rugby football, 74;
correspondence in the _Saturday Review_, 195.

Beer-drinking rules in Germany, 121-125.

Beethoven, 211.

Beggars, Russian, 377.

Belgrade Station, 406, 408.

Bell, casting of a, 382-85.

Bell, schoolfellow, 77, 79, 83.

_Belle Hélène (La)_, 197.

_Belle Maman_, 93.

Belle-Isle, a visit to, 216-18.

Belloc, Hilary, at Oxford, 170-72;
“Bad Child’s Book of Beasts,” 171;
_Verses and Sonnets_, 171;
_The North Street Gazette_, 390-95;
_The Four Men_, 391;
_The Eye Witness_, 395.

_Ben Hur_, 105.

Benckendorff, Constantine, 263.

⸺ Count, on Delaunay, 67;
in Copenhagen, 208-9;
at the Russian Legation, 212;
personality, 213-15;
invitations to the Hon. Maurice Baring, 218-24;
in London, 261;
on Russia, 268.

Benckendorff, Pierre, 223-24, 268.

Benelli, Signor, 140.

Benson, Arthur, at Eton, 100, 104, 110-12, 116-17, 147, 259;
poems, 138;
house of, 142;
style, 148.

⸺ E. F., _Dodo_, 138, 149.

⸺ Mrs., 138.

Benzon, Otto, comedies, 210-11.

_Bérénice_, Racine, 192-93.

Berlin, 133;
rooms in Unter den Linden, 135-37;
Friedrichsstrasse Station, 438.

⸺ University, 136-37.

_Berliner Tageblatt_, 276.

Berliner Theater, the, 136.

Bernhardt, Sarah, 187, 197;
in _Hernani_, 53;
_As in a Looking-Glass_, 93-94;
in _La Tosca_, 107;
and Eleonora Duse, 136;
at Daly’s, 167;
in _L’Aiglon_, 199-200, 204;
her home in Belle-Isle, 216-17;
personality, 217-18, 227-44;
her interpretation of _Hamlet_, 239-41;
in _La Dame aux Camélias_, 241;
_Angelo_ produced, 305;
in _La Femme de Claude_, 307;
_Fédora_, 309;
her greatness, 309-10.

Bertie, Sir Frank, 180.

Bilky, coachman, 40.

Bingen, 133.

Bismarck, 127, 129;
sayings of, 139;
on the English, 173, 175;
remark concerning Constantinople, 419.

Bizet, tomb, 94.

Black Gang, in Moscow, 320-23.

Blackwood, Basil, 71, 171.

Bletchington, Captain, 44-45.

Blunt, Lady Anne, 169.

⸺ Sir Wilfrid, 169.

Board of Trade, offices of the, 157.

Bobrinsky, Count, 280.

⸺ Count André, 388.

⸺ Count Lev, 388-90.

⸺ Countess, 389-90.

Boer War, feeling between Germany and England, 174-75.

Boileau, reading of, 152.

Bois de Boulogne, 16, 67, 92.

Boissier, 36.

Boito, opera, 310.

Bolsheviks, national anthem of the, 321 _note_.

Bonn, 133.

Borthwick, Oliver, 268.

_Boris Godounov_, 310.

Bosanquet, editor of the _Parachute_, 111.

Boswell, a _quotation_, 185.

Bouchier, Mr., 104.

_Bouffons (Les)_, 233.

_Bourgeois Gentilhomme_, 75.

Bourget, parody on, 194-95.

Bourke, Harry, 43.

Bowden, Father Sebastian, 395-96.

Brachet, _Grammaire Historique_, 114.

Brackley, Lord, at Eton, 89.

Braisne, 89.

Brandes, Dr. George, 211.

⸺ Frau, 133.

Braun, boy at Hildesheim, 120-21;
explains beer-drinking, 121-23.

Breguet watches, presents of, 55-56, 115.

Brewster, 139, 184;
works of, 249-51;
_L’Âme païenne_, 250;
on Verlaine, 251;
on the production of Shakespeare, 251-52;
the _Prison_, 252;
in Rome, 259-60.

Bridges, Robert, pamphlets of verse, 148.

Brinkman prize, the, 91.

_British Encyclopædia_, article by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 226.

Brizzi, Signor, 52.

Broadwood, at Ascot, 78-79;
at Eastbourne, 82-85;
at Eton, 87.

⸺ Colonel, 76.

Brocken, climbing the, 128.

Brohan, Madeleine, 230.

Brompton Oratory, 395-96.

Brontë, Charlotte, 228;
_Jane Eyre_, 106.

Brooke, Guy, 269, 271, 280, 292.

_Brothers Karamazov (The)_, Dostoievsky, 293.

Broughton Castle, 204.

Brown, Mrs., sock-shop, 95-96, 105, 117.

Browne, Miss Pinkie, 61-62.

Browning, Oscar, 153.

⸺ Robert, 151, 169.

Brusa, 404-5.

Bucharest, 418.

Buckstone, art of, 51.

Bulgarians, spirit of the, 416-17.

Bullock, Mr., guard at Paddington, 6-7.

Bulteel, Bessie, 48, 54, 58, 61, 66.

⸺ Effie (Aunt), 34, 47.

⸺ Lady Elizabeth, 29-30.

⸺ (Uncle Johnny), 34, 40, 57-58, 176.

Burcher, Mr., librarian at Eton, 110, 116.

Burlington House, 56.

Burne-Jones, 56, 232, 235.

Burschenschaft, 125-26.

Butat, M., 27, 28.

Byron, 50, 58, 126, 186;
_quoted_, 50, 282;
Arthur Benson and, 112;
Professor Ihne on, 163;
the singer of Greece, 255.

Café de Paris, 92.

Cairo, the Agency, 168-69.

Califano, 95.

Calverley, 145.

Cambridge, 141;
King’s College, 143-45;
debating societies, 143;
Society of the Apostles, 145-46;
work done by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 151-53.

_Cambridge A B C_, newspaper, 144.

Cambridge University Press, pamphlet of poems by the Hon. Maurice
Baring, 199.

_Camées Parisiens_, Banville, 243.

Cameron, Miss Violet, 28.

Campbell, Herbert, 24, 83.

⸺ Mrs. Patrick, 56, 149;
in _The Notorious Mrs. Ebbsmith_, 157-58;
in _Magda_, 167;
in _Pelléas_, 305.

⸺ minor, Ascot, 79.

⸺ Niall, 71.

_Captain Swift_, at the Haymarket, 107.

Card games, German, 124.

Carducci, 140.

Carlyle, Arthur Benson and, 112.

_Carmen_, 187.

Carnac, temple of, 169.

Carr, editor of the _Parachute_, 111.

Carr-Bosanquet, parody on Kipling, 144;
humour of, 144-45;
rooms of, 153.

Carregi, 167.

Carroll, Lewis, 180.

Caruso, 52.

Castellane, Count Boni de, 206.

Castiglione, Madame de, 196.

Catherine ii., 339, 355.

_Cavalleria Rusticana_, 133.

Cecil, Lord Sackville, 166-67.

Cemented Bricks Society, 151.

“Cercle de l’Union,” 184, 196, 206.

_Cercle des Débats (Le)_, 113.

Certosa, the, 159.

_Cetonia_, schooner, 45.

_Chaika_, by Tchekov, 323.

Chaliapine, 263, 309-10, 376-77.

Chantilly, 205.

Charles, Prince and Princess, of Denmark, 225.

Châtelet, the, Paris, 92.

Chérie, French governess, 9-138 _passim_.

Chernaya, village of, 325-26.

_Cherry Orchard_, Tchekov, 266, 268.

Chesterton, Cecil, _The New Witness_, 395.

⸺ Gilbert, 395.

Chevrillon, André, 195.

_Childe Harold_, 112.

Children, notes on, 373-74.

_Children of the Sun_, Gorky, 323.

Chinese Catholic priests, 283.

Chit-Chat Debating Society, 144.

Cholera in San Stefano, 419-29.

Chough’s Nest, Lynton, 197-98.

Christians in Uskub, massacre prevented, 414-16.

Christie, Mrs., education of the children, 11-158.

Christmas in Germany, 155-56.

Church, _Stories from Homer_, 46.

Churchill, Winston, at Ascot, 71.

Civil Service Commission, 177.

Clairin, 217.

Clapshaw, Mr., 89.

Clarendon, Lady, 55.

Clarke, at Eton, 103.

⸺ Rev. Dawson, 154.

Clarkson, Mr., 153.

Clemenceau, M., 195.

_Cleopatra_, the M.S., 169.

Clifford, Lady de, 62.

Clothes, nationality and, 373.

Clubs in Heidelberg, 125.

Cluny Musée, 92.

Coblenz, 133.

_Cocart et Bicoquet_, 92.

Coleridge, 240;
“Ancient Mariner” _quoted_, 270.

Coliseum, Rome, 246.

Collins, an essay on, by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 142.

Cologne, 133.

Colonial Office, 177.

Comédie française, 230, 265.

Compiègne, 198.

Congreve, 148.

“Conscripts’ Farewell (The),” 61.

Constantinople, rebellion 1909, 397-98;
Russian pilgrims in, 400-1;
the new Sultan, 401-4;
Adrianople Gate, 402;
November impressions, 418-20;
cholera at San Stefano, 419-429.

Contrexéville, 56, 65-67, 81, 153.

Coombe Cottage, near Malden, 3-7, 10, 12, 14, 17.

Copeman, Miss, at Eton, 87, 99-100, 112.

Copenhagen, British Legation, 207-26;
Tivoli music-hall, 209;
the Bred Gade, 212.

Coppée, François, _Le Passant_, 228.

Coquelin in _L’Étourdi_, 107;
in _L’Abbé Constantin_, 305;
art of, 51, 199, 230, 243.

Corfu, 256.

Corinth, 254.

Cornish, Gerald, 116.

⸺ Hubert, at Heidelberg, 118, 124-26, 128, 133;
in Naples, 141;
Cambridge, 143, 146;
journalism, 144;
criticism of the new poets, 150;
Devonshire, 198.

⸺ Mr., at Eton, 88, 98, 117, 141-42, 180.

⸺ Mrs., 114.

Cosham, 114.

Cossacks, fire on crowd at Bauman’s funeral, 322;
attitude during the Revolution, 353;
on the Volga steamers, 375.

_Country Girl_ in St. Petersburg, 324.

Covent Garden Opera House, _Aïda_, 53.

Coventry, Willie, 110, 112, 115-16.

Cowes Regatta, 44, 85.

Cowley, 155.

Cowper, “Hark my Soul,” 50.

⸺ Lord, 176.

Crackenthorpe, 147.

Crawford, Marion, _Mr. Isaacs_, 50;
a favourite author, 105-6.

Crawshay, Mrs., 245.

Creçy, forest of, 205.

Cremer’s, Bond Street, 5;
Regent Street, 7.

_Crime and Punishment_, Dostoievsky, 293.

Croizette, 230.

Cromer, Lord, 82, 396;
_Modern Egypt_, 168-69;
on Lord Salisbury’s Foreign policy, 178.

Croome Court, 112.

Crosbie, Mr., 40, 135.

Crowds, Russian, 383-85.

Cruises in 1908, 395.

Crum, at Eton, 116.

Cuckoo Weir, 95.

Cunliffe, at Eton, 108.

Cuppy, Mr. Hazlitt Alva, 124, 127.

Curçin, Dr. Milan, 410-11, 412, 417.

Currie, Lady, 245-47, 261-62.

⸺ Lord, in Rome, 245-47, 261-62.

Cust, Harry, 62, 149.

Cuyp, 16.

_Cyrano de Bergerac_, 200-3, 243.

_Daily Mail_, 275.

_Daily News_, 148.

_Daily Telegraph_, 276.

Daly’s Theatre, Sarah Bernhardt at, 167.

Damala, M., 53.

_Dame aux Camélias_, Sarah Bernhardt in, 136, 231, 241;
Duse in, 235, 309.

_Damozel Blanche_, by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 113.

Dancing lessons, 25-26.

Dante, _quoted_, 140, 404.

Darmesteter, Madame, 195.

Dart, the, 374.

Dartmoor, 31, 57.

Datchet, regatta, 142.

Daudet, Alphonse, 105.

Davantientung, life in, 283-86.

_David Grieve_, Mrs. H. Ward, 148.

Davidson, John, 147-48, 151.

_Day of My Life at Eton (A)_, 144.

Deacon, Mr., 6, 27, 39, 63.

Debating Societies, Eton, 113;
Cambridge, 143-44.

Decemviri Debating Society, 143-44, 153.

Delaunay, art of, 51, 67, 230.

Delcassé, M., 184.

Delos, 256.

Delphi, rocks of, 254.

Denmark, King of, 209-10;
and King Edward VII., 224-25.

_Der Wald_, Ethel Smyth, 215.

Derby, the, 167.

Desclée, 52.

Devonshire, visits to, 5, 6;
scenery compared with South Russia, 386.

Devonshire House, fancy dress ball, 1897, 176.

Dickens, Charles, reading of, 53;
humour of, 298.

_Die Alte Tante_, 119.

_Die Ehre_, Sudermann, 136.

Dillon, Dr., 324.

Dimitri, servant, 282.

Dimitriev-Mamonov, Alexander, 314.

Dimmock, 9-135 _passim_.

Diplomatic Service, examinations for the, 153-56.

Dittel, Herr, 169.

_Dodo_, Benson, 138, 149.

_Doll’s House_, Ibsen, 136;
in Copenhagen, 210-11;
Duse in, 309.

_Don Giovanni_, 186, 211.

Donizetti, 52.

Donnay, Maurice, _Amants_, 166.

Donne, lines _quoted_, 226.

Dostoievsky, novels of, 261, 293;
Nazarenko’s opinion of, 343.

Dowson, Ernest, 149;
poem by, 150.

Doyle, Conan, 381.

Drachman, Holger, _Gurre_, 210, 211.

Drake, Ingalton, 95.

Dresden, 118, 133;
picture gallery, 135.

Drew, Mr., 97.

Dreyfus campaign, 184-85, 195-97, 209.

Drury Lane Pantomimes, _Mother Goose_, 8, 83, 245;
Duse at, 167.

Du Lau, M., 192, 206-7.

Du Maurier, 55;
_cited_, 321.

Duckworth, at Ascot, 73.

Dudley, Georgiana, Lady, 196.

Duels in Heidelberg, 127-28.

Dufferin, Lord, in Paris, 166.

Duma, the Russian, opening of first, 332, 339-41;
dissolution, 341-42;
discussions about the, 353-54;
the third, 390.

Dumas fils, Alexandre, 141, 230;
_Comme Elles sont Toutes_, 85-86;
_Dame aux Camélias_, 136, 231, 309;
_La Femme de Claude_, 235, 305-8;
_La Visite de Noces_, 305, 308.

Dunglass, at Eton, 89, 102, 105-6, 115-16.

Durnford, Mr. Walter, 46, 63, 116.

Duse, Eleonora, art of, 52-53, 136, 167, 309-10;
in _La Dame aux Camélias_, 184;
as _Magda_, 210, 234-35;
in _Fédora_, 231, 309;
at the Waldorf Theatre, 305;
in _La Femme de Claude_, 306-8;
in _The Second Mrs. Tanqueray_, 309;
in _La Gioconda_, 309.

Dutch Reformed Church, Constantinople, 422.

Dyce, his Shakespeare, 185.

E. at Timmes, 161-64.

Eagle, shop in Edgware Road, 28.

Earthquake at Assisi, 158-59.

“East and West,” Hilary Belloc, 391-92.

Easter in Russia, 155;
Moscow festivities, 334-39.

_Ebb Tide_, Stevenson, 148.

Edgcumbe, Colonel, 15, 60-61.

Edgcumbe, Lady Ernestine, 61.

⸺ Lord Mount, 60-63.

Edinburgh, Duchess of, 348.

Édouard, _Les Enfants d’Édouard_, 21.

Edward VII., in Denmark, 224-25.

_Edwin and Angelina_, Violet Fane, 245.

Egerton, Francis, 98.

Egypt, 168.

Egyptian Red Crescent, 427-28.

Eiffel Tower, 93.

Ekaterinoslav Regiment, the, 335.

Eldorado Paris Music Hall, 66.

Elgin, Lord, 255.

Eliot, George, 106, 112.

Elliot, Charles, 191.

Ellis, Colonel, 60.

⸺ Edwin, 149.

⸺ Gerald, 60.

⸺ Mr., carpenter, 42, 59.

Elsinore, 224-25.

_En Paix_, 197.

_Encyclopædia Britannica_, articles by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 261.

_English Lyrics_, Le Gallienne, 149.

Enver Pasha, 397.

_Epic of Hades_, Lewis Morris, 98.

Esclangon, M., 154-55.

Eton, Warre’s House, 13, 14;
4th of June, 65, 106-7;
Lower Chapel, 89;
first summer half, 94-95;
sock-shops, 95-96;
duty of the prepostor, 96, 100;
masters, 96-100;
religious instruction, 100-1;
music lessons, 101-3;
ragging of masters, 103-4;
breakfasts with the Head Master, 107;
New Schools opened by Queen Victoria, 108;
Mr. Gladstone’s speech on classical education, 108-9;
system of punishments, 109-10;
the School library, 110, 116;
the boats, 112-13;
Debating Societies, 113-14;
Tercentenary, 1891, 114;
the Prince Consort prize (1891) won by the Hon. Maurice Baring,
114-16;
House matches, 115;
the playing fields, 117;
Mr. Cornish Vice-Provost, 141-42;
newspapers and books about, 144;
compared with Cambridge, 170;
Cloisters, 180.

Eton and Harrow match, 64-65, 115.

Eton Boating Song, 103.

_Eton Chronicle_, 144.

_Eton Review_, the, 111.

Eton Volunteers, 108.

_Étourdi (L’)_, Coquelin, 107.

Evans’ House, Eton, 88.

Executions, Turkish, 398-99.

Exhibition, the Paris, 1900, 93.

_Eye Witness (The)_, editors, 395.

Eyoub, Mosque of, 402, 403.

Faguet, M. Émile, 242;
_Propos de Théâtre_, 243.

Fair at Nijni-Novgorod, 371-73.

_Falka_, 28.

Fanshawe, Miss, 50.

_Fantasio_, Ethel Smyth, 216.

Fargeuil, 53.

Farms in South Russia, 387.

Fashoda crisis, 178.

Faure, President, death of, 187.

_Faust_, Goethe, 26, 136, 164;
Gounod, 136.

Favart, Madame, 230.

Febvre, 230.

Fechter, 51.

_Fédora_, Sardou, 231, 305, 309.

_Femme de Claude (La)_, Duse in, 305-9.

Feodor, peasant, 348-49.

Feuillet, Octave, 106.

_Fidelio_, 324.

Field, Michael, 151.

Fielding, 111.

_Figaro_, the, 143.

Fires, Russian village, 382.

First Siberian Corps, 298.

Fish, Hamilton, 71.

Fisher, Commander, 395.

Fitzgerald, Arthur Benson and, 112.

Fletcher, 171.

Flete, 33-34.

Florence, 140-41, 158;
June nights, 4;
the earthquake, 158-60;
Giotto’s Tower, 167.

Foire de Jambon, La, Paris, 92.

Foix, Gaston de, statue at Milan, 302.

Folkestone, Lady, 54.

Fontaine, La, _Fables_, 20, 352.

Fontainebleau, 205;
forest of, 198.

Fontanka, the, Countess Shuvaloff’s house, 263.

_Food of the Gods_, Wells, 285.

Ford, Major, 420-29.

Foreign Office, African Department, 177-80;
the Commercial Department, 260-61.

Forster, Birket, 16.

Fort des Poulains, house of Sarah Bernhardt, 216-17.

Fortune-telling, 352.

Forum, the, 259.

_Four Men (The)_, Belloc, 391.

Foyod, 92.

France, Anatole, works, 141;
criticism by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 156-57;
parody on, 194-95, 213;
his receptions, 184-85, 195-96;
Count Pasolini and, 249.

_Franconia_, the, 125.

Franco-Prussian War, 51, 129.

Frank, footman, 27.

_Frank Fairleigh_, 68.

Frankfort, 133.

Frascati, 259.

_Fräulein Schmidt und Mr. Anstruther_, 370.

Frederick, Empress, 88, 129.

⸺ the Great, rooms at Potsdam, 129.

Frew, Mr., 422-29.

Fullerton, Lady Georgiana, _Too Strange not to be True_, 48.

Fun-chu-Ling, village, 299.

Gaedke, Colonel, 276-77, 281.

Galata Bridge, executions, 398-400.

Gale, Norman, 153;
_Country Lyrics_, 148.

Galgenberg, the, 119.

Gallienne, Richard le, 147;
_English Lyrics_, 149;
“What of the Darkness,” 150;
friendship of, 151.

Galliffet, General, 184, 196-97, 206-7.

⸺ Madame de, 193.

Gamberaia, villa, 167.

Garrick, 227.

⸺ Chambers, London, 154, 156.

⸺ Club, 154.

⸺ Theatre, 157, 310.

Geissler, Dr., 422.

Gémier, actor, 197.

_Genesis_, Andrew Lang, 148.

“Georgian poets,” 412;
Books of Georgian Poetry, 147.

Géradmer, 67.

Géricault, tomb, 94.

German Crown Prince, in Jubilee procession, 85.

⸺ Emperor, 44;
visit to Eton, 108;
at Queen Victoria’s funeral, 216.

Germany, antipathy towards England, 129;
remarks on, 172-73.

_Ghosts_, Ibsen, 323.

Gievko, 386-88.

Gilbert and Sullivan operas, 24, 25.

“Gilles,” 67.

_Gioconda_, D’Annunzio, 305;
Duse in, 309.

Giorgione, 185.

Giroux, 35.

Gladstone, Hon. W. E., Lady Dorothy Nevill on, 15;
reputation at Ascot, 77-78;
lecture at Eton, 108-9.

Glenesk, Lord, 268.

Gluck, 185, 210;
_Orpheo_, 211.

Glyn, Admiral, 47.

Godziadan, 312.

Goethe, poetry of, 51, 126;
_Faust_, 136, 164, 311.

Gogol, novels, 261, 364;
humour of, 298;
on Russia, 430, 431.

Golden Horn, view, 397.

Goldoni, _La Locandiera_, 305.

Goomes, Captain, 44.

Gorky, _The Children of the Sun_, 323-24.

Goschen, Sir E., 208, 209;
work of the Legation, 214-15, 225.

Gosse, Mr. Edmund, 142, 147-48;
verses published 1894, 148;
friendship, 151;
literary discussions, 155-57, 185;
in Copenhagen, 209;
_Hypolympia_, 209.

Got, art of, 51, 230.

Gotha, school at, 130-31.

Gounod, _Faust_, 136.

Grace, 19, 37.

Graham, 106.

Grain, Corney, 17.

Grand d’Hauteville, at Eton, 114.

Granier, Jeanne, in _Amants_, 166.

Granville, Lady, 26.

⸺ Lord, 62.

Grassina, village, 159.

Gray’s _Elegy_, 18.

Great Western Railway, Swindon works, 76.

Greece, Sarah Bernhardt on, 217;
visits to, 254.

⸺ King of, 225.

Greek Church, Paris, 187.

⸺ School, San Stefano, cholera hospital, 421-29.

⸺ traders in Kharbin, 275.

Green, Mr. Nathaniel, 22.

⸺ C. A., 149.

Greffuhle, Madame, 199.

Grévin, Musée, 92.

Grey, Lady de, 60.

Grey, Lady Georgiana, 58, 59.

Grisi, 52.

Grosvenor House parties, 54.

Guatemala, 180.

Guidarelli, Guidarello, statue at Ravenna, 302.

Guildhall concerts, 27.

Guitry in _Amants_, 166.

Gunchuling, 312.

Gunter, A. C., _That Frenchman_, 106.

Gurko, Colonel, 283.

_Gurre_, Holger Drachman, 210-11.

Gymnase, Paris, 93, 265.

Gymnasium, Hildesheim, 120-21.

H. B., 195.

Haggard, Rider, 105, 107, 155.

Haichen Station, 281-82.

Hale, Mr. Badger, 97.

Halévy, 199;
_L’Abbé Constantin_, 106.

_Half-hours in the Far South_, 75.

Halifax, Lord, 88.

Hallé, Sir Charles, 62.

Hamilton, Leslie, 116.

⸺ war correspondent, 269.

_Hamlet_, review in _North Street Gazette_, 392-93;
Sarah Bernhardt’s, 231, 233, 239-41.

Hammonet, M., 114.

Hampton Court residences, 58.

Hands, Charles, 275-76.

Hanover, 118.

Harben, at Eton, 98.

Harbin, 275, 293.

Harbord family, 59.

Hardinge, Arthur, 191.

Hardy, Thomas, 126;
works, 146;
_Tess of the D’Urbervilles_, 148.

Hare, Sir John, art of, 51, 157;
in _The Colonel_, 53;
in _A Pair of Spectacles_, 310.

Harland, Henry, 155.

⸺ The _Yellow Book_, 157.

Harriet, housemaid, 27.

Harris (Uncle Willie), 34.

Harz Mountains, 128, 175.

Hasse, Hildesheim, 121, 129.

Hatchard’s, 20.

Hatfield, garden-parties, 178.

Hauptmann, _Lonely Lives_, 266.

Hawthorne, Julian, _Mrs. Gainsborough’s Diamonds_, 106.

Haymaking near Moscow, 349-51.

Haymarket Theatre, 53;
_Captain Swift_, 107.

_Hearts of Men (The)_, 260.

_Hedda Gabler_, Ibsen, 210-11.

Heidelberg, 4, 133, 135, 163-64;
view of the Castle, 124;
the University, 124-26.

Heine, Heinrich, 119, 156, 172, 228.

Hele, M., 86.

Heligoland, cession, 173.

Hems, Mr. Harry, 40.

Hengler’s Circus, 17.

Henley, 148.

⸺ Antony, at Oxford, 170-72.

Hennings, Fru, in the _Doll’s House_, 210-11.

Henry, Mlle Ida, 12-13.

Herbert, Auberon, at Oxford, 170, 176;
experiences, 284-85.

⸺ Aubrey, 402.

⸺ First Secretary, Copenhagen, 215.

⸺ Michael, 212;
in Paris, 181, 183;
personality, 190-92.

Heredia, poems, 255.

_Hermann and Dorothea_, 126.

_Hernani_, 35, 229.

Hervieu, Paul, 199.

Herz, at Eton, 103.

Hetherington, Grace, nursery maid, 2, 8.

Heygate, Mr., 87, 96.

Heywood-Lonsdale, 88.

Hildesheim, life at, 118-31, 135, 153-161, 172.

_Hildesheim_, pamphlet by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 195.

Hillier, Arthur Cecil, 149.

Hilly, nurse, 2, 3, 5, 8, 9, 37, 39, 41.

Hliebnikov, officer, 289, 290-91, 300.

Hobbes, John Oliver, 147, 149.

Hofteater Theatre, Karlsruhe, 216.

Holberg, _comedies_, 210.

Holywell, Oxford, 170.

Hook, poem by, 50.

Hope, schoolfellow, 70.

Horace, _Odes_, 100, 259.

Houghton, Lord, 110.

_Hound of Heaven_, Thompson, 150.

House Debating Society, Eton, 113.

Houses in South Russia, 386-87.

Houssaye, Henry, 199.

Hua, M., 97, 114;
Eton, 87;
_Le Cercle des Débats_, 113.

Hugo, Victor, 230, 233, 242-43;
_Angelo_, 21, 305;
his tomb, 92;
_Ruy Bias_, 114;
“La Chanson d’Eviradnus,” 237-39.

Humanists’ Library, 261.

Hunter, Mrs. Charles, 139.

Huret, Jules, or Sarah Bernhardt, 217-218.

Hurstmonceux, 83.

Ibsen, _The Doll’s House_, 136-37, 210, 309;
_Hedda Gabler_, 210;
_Ghosts_, 323.

Ida, Mlle, 15, 21-22, 26, 66.

_Idiot (The)_, Dostoievsky, 293.

Ihne, Professor, at Hildesheim, 124-26, 133, 135, 163-64, 173.

_Illustrated London News_, 148.

Impey, Mr., 107.

_Indomitable_, the, 395.

Innerste River, the, 129.

International Law, examination in, 207.

Invalides, the, 92.

_Iphegenie auf Tauris_, 126.

_Iphigénie_, Racine, 228.

Irkutsk, the journey to, 269-72, 314.

Irving, Sir Henry, art of, 24, 51-52;
as Becket, 310.

Italian language learned at Florence, 140.

⸺ Opera, appreciation of, 52.

Italy, childish impressions, 38-39.

Ito, Marquis, 273.

_Ivan the Little Fool_, Russian story, 272-73.

_Ivan the Terrible_, 310.

Ivan Veliki, Cathedral of, 335.

_Ivanov_, Tchekov, 265.

Ivy Bridge, 31, 41.

Jagow, Herr, 248.

James, Henry, 147-49;
_The Tragic Muse_, 228.

_Jane Eyre_, 105.

Janiculum, the, 259.

Janotha, Mlle, 24.

Japan, Russian policy, 261-62;
the attack on Port Arthur, 263.

Jardin d’Acclimatation, 92.

Jaucourt, Françoise de, 206.

⸺ Madame de, 205-6.

⸺ Monsieur de, 21, 82-83, 194, 205-6.

⸺ Pierre de, 82, 84.

Jen-tsen-Tung, 312-14.

Jerome, J. K., 381;
_Paul Clever_, 324.

Jessen, M. de, 275, 277.

Jews, discussions concerning, 354-55;
Count Witte and the, 367-68;
_pogroms_, 389-90.

Joachim, 55.

John, Father, of Kronstadt, 325.

_John Inglesant_, 50.

Johnson, Dr. 127, 213;
_Lives of the Poets_, 185-86;
opinions of, 252-53.

⸺ Lionel, 149-50.

Johnstone, Sir Alan, 209, 215.

_Joie fait peur (La)_, 189.

_Journal_, the, Ludovic Naudeau, correspondent, 276.

Jowett, _quoted_, 364.

Joynes, Jimmy, 89.

Jubilee year festivities, 85.

Jump, Mr., 22.

Jusserand, M., 208.

Justinian, Palace of, 398.

Kadets, the, 332;
opening of the Duma, 340-41;
Count Witte and the, 367-68.

Kalnikoff, General M., 414-15.

Kama River, the, 374.

Karlovna, Marie, 347-48.

Karlsruhe, 216.

Kasten’s Hotel, Hanover, 118.

Kazan, 374-75.

_Keate’s’ Lane Papers_, 111.

Keats, 4, 5, 110, 140, 235, 246.

Keeley, Mrs., 51.

Kendal, Mr. and Mrs., 28.

⸺ Mrs., art of, 51, 310-11;
in _The Ironmaster_, 53;
in _The Likeness of the Night_, 310.

Kenmare river, 85.

Kerensky, 341.

Kershaw at Balliol, 176.

Kharbin, 274-75, 311, 314.

Kharkov, 386.

Kholodovsky, General, 275.

_Khovantincha_, 310.

Kiev, 388.

Kilkov, Prince, 315.

Killarney, 85.

_King Lear_, 163.

_King Solomon’s Mines_, 107.

Kingsley, Charles, _Westward Ho!_, 106.

Kipling, 152;
popularity of, 126, 200;
parody on, 144;
publications 1891-92, 148;
_The Gate of the Hundred Sorrows_, 309.

Kirsanov, 222, 314.

Kislitsky, Lieutenant, 283, 287-91, 295-96, 299, 302, 313.

Knagenhjelm, M. de, 209.

_Kneipe_, entertainment, 125-26, 129, 133, 161.

Kologrivo, village, 345.

Kongelige Theatre, Copenhagen, 210-211.

Kotz, Marie Karlovna von, 263-64, 325, 328.

Kousnetsk, 315.

Kovolievsky, Professor, 340, 342.

Kraus, Mlle, 92.

Kremlin, Moscow, 334-36;
Nijni-Novgorod, 371;
Kazan, 374.

Kronstadt, disorders at, 359-60.

Krumbacher, Professor, 254, 256.

Kuan-chen-tse, 293.

Kuhn, Mr. Otto, 124.

Kumanovo, battle of, 407, 412-16.

Kuprulu, 414.

Kuroki, his turning move, 291.

Kuropatkin, General, 274, 280, 287, 312.

Kursk, 352, 385.

Kutchuk, Tchekmedche, 419.

Labiche, _La Grammaire_, 43.

Labour meeting at Terrioki, 345-47.

_Lady Windermere’s Fan_, Wilde, 148.

Lamb, Charles, 145.

Lambton, Claud, 48.

Lamsdorff, Count, 273.

Lane, Mr. John, 151.

Lang, Andrew, writings, 148;
and the Dreyfusards, 197.

Langtry, Mrs., 25.

Lansdowne, Lady, 62.

⸺ Lord, 62.

_Last Abbot of Glastonbury (The)_, 71.

Latude, escape, 93.

_Lays of Ancient Rome_, 158, 167.

_Leavenworth Case (The)_, 74.

Lee, Vernon, 141, 147, 256, 259, 370;
_Belcaro_, 20;
a saying of, 142;
and the earthquake, 160;
home of, 167;
on Wagner, 186-87.

Lee-Hamilton, Eugene, 167.

Legouvé, 305.

Leigh, R. Austen, 91, 144.

Leighton, Sir Frederick, 55.

Leighton’s in Windsor, 95.

Leipzig, 133; an incident at, 154.

Lemaître, Jules, 199;
on Duse’s _Magda_, 210;
on Sarah Bernhardt, 227, 231, 233-34;
_Les Rois_, 233;
on Duse in _La Dame aux Camélias_, 235;
on Rostand, 242.

Lemerre, publisher, 194-95.

_Léna_, 232.

Lenin, 341.

Leno, Dan, 245.

Lenôtre, 168.

Leo XIII., Pope, 253.

Leopardi, 140.

Lermontov, 365;
“The Demon,” 295.

Lewes, _Life of Goethe_, 126.

Liao-he, the, 374.

Liaoyang, 282, 286;
the Hôtel International, 280.

⸺ battle of, 287-92.

Liberty, 7.

Lido, the, 141.

Lieskov, 294.

_Life’s Handicap_, Kipling, 148.

_Likeness of the Night (The)_, 310.

Limfa, 256.

Linevitch, General, 311.

_Livre de Mon Ami_, France, 156-57.

“Lira,” musical instrument, 387-88.

Lisle, Lecomte de, 203.

Lister, Reginald, reminiscences, 182-83, 194;
personality, 188-90.

Liszt, the _Erlkönig_, 211.

Little Russians, 371-72, 386 _et seq._

Littré, 117.

_Locandiera (La)_, Goldoni, 308.

_Lohengrin_, 153.

_Lokal Anzeiger_, 276.

London Library, 11.

Lonely Tree Hill, 298-99, 302.

_Longman’s Magazine_, 148.

_Lord of the Isles_, 91.

Lords, the Eton Eleven at, 115-16.

Lorelei, rocks of the, 133.

_Lorenzaccio_, 231, 233;
Sarah Bernhardt in, 233-34.

Loti, Pierre, 137;
parody on, 194-95;
attack on the Serbiana, 411.

Louvre, 92;
_Mona Lisa_, 67;
_Galérie d’Apollon_, 67.

Low Mass in Notre Dame, 199.

Lowther, Lady, 404.

Lucas Stanley, music shop of, 12.

Ludwig, Herr, 13.

Luxmoore, Mr., at Eton, 116-17.

Luxor, 169.

Lyall, Edna, 105.

Lyceum Theatre, _La Tosca_, 107-8.

_Lycidas_, 161.

Lynton, 197-98.

Lyttelton, Edward, at Eton, 104.

Lytton, Bulwer, _Harold_, 75;
_Last Days of Pompeii_, 106.

M’Cullagh, 292.

_Macmillan’s Magazine_, essay sent to, 142.

Macready, 51.

Madeleine, the, 187.

_Mademoiselle de Belle-Isle_, 229.

Maeterlinck, 232.

_Magasin du Louvre_, 67.

_Magda_, Mrs. Patrick Campbell in, 167;
Sarah Bernhardt and Duse compared in, 233-35, 242, 309.

Magpie Debating Society, 143.

Maisy, coachman, 26.

_Maître Guérin_, 93.

Malcolm, at Eton, 90.

Malinovsky, 283, 287.

Mallet, Sir Edward, in Berlin, 136;
his “Villa White,” 166-67.

Malten, 134.

Mamonov, 316, 329-30.

Manchuria, 311, 363.

⸺ Station, 274.

Manège, the, Moscow, Easter festivities, 335-36.

Mannheim, 133.

Mantle, maid, 18.

_Many Inventions_, Kipling, 148.

Marcello, 185.

Marie Feodorovna, Empress, 348.

Marindin, 105.

Mario, 52.

Maritch, Alexander, 412-413.

Marlborough House parties, 24-25, 80-81.

Marmora, Sea of, 419.

“Marseillaise,” the, in Moscow, 320.

Maskelyne and Cook, 17.

Mason, Mrs., 25.

Materna, 134.

Maubant, 230.

Maupassant, Guy de, 141, 155, 343;
_Boule de Suif_, 317.

Maxse, Admiral, 195.

_Mayfly_, the, 111.

Medd, Cubby, 170.

_Meistersinger_, 133-34, 186.

Membland, life at, 6, 8, 14, 31-42, 58-62, 75, 135, 137;
lines on Christmas at, by Godfrey Webb, 42-43;
“my path,” 55-56;
visitors to, 62;
the organ, 86;
visit of Willie Coventry, 112;
Christmas 1890, 113;
good-bye to, 177.

Memnon, temple, 169.

_Men I Have Met_, Jessen, 276.

Mendès, Catulle, _La Vierge d’Avilon_, 217.

Mensur, the, Heidelberg, 127-28.

Meredith, 126, 148.

Merimée, 141.

Merrymount Press, Boston, 261.

Metternich, 202, 204.

Mewstone, the, 40.

_Michel Strogoff_, 92.

Miskchenko, General, 292.

_Middlemarch_, 267.

_Mikado_, at Frankfort, 133;
in Moscow, 265.

Mildmay, boys at Eton, 88.

Mildmay, Mr. H. B., 1.

⸺ Mrs. Bingham (Aunt Georgie), 33-34, 59-60.

Milioukov, deputy, 340.

Millard, 276.

Milton, 162, 163;
_Lycidas_, 112;
_Paradise Lost_, 118, 127.

⸺ at Eton, 87, 89.

Mint, a visit to the, 76.

Mirski, Prince, 386-87.

Mitre, a dinner at the, 176.

_Modern Egypt_, Lord Cromer, 168-69.

Moe-tung, village, 290.

Molière, 210, 230;
_L’Avare_, 114.

_Mona Lisa_, the, 67.

_Monde ou l’on s’ennuie (Le)_, 92.

Mongolia, borders of, 313;
singing in, 351.

Monro, Harold, stories of, 332-33.

Monson, Sir Edmund, in Paris, 181-84;
personality, 190.

Montagu House, 176.

Monte Carlo, 166-67.

_Monte Cristo_, 96, 105.

Montesquieu, Robert de, 199;
on _L’Aiglon_, 203-4.

Montgomery, Mr. Alfred, 15.

Montmartre, 197.

_Moonstone (The)_, 74.

Moore, George, 147, 149, 155.

Moreau, 232.

Moritzberg, the, 119.

Morley, John, _Compromise_, 381.

_Morning Post_, the Hon. Maurice Baring correspondent in Manchuria,
268-304;
Whigham correspondence, 275;
Mr. Baring’s dramatic criticisms, 305;
Mr. Baring correspondent in Moscow, 332;
in St. Petersburg, 356, 381;
and in Turkey, 395.

Morris, Lewis, _Epic of Hades_, 98.

Morsh, Mr., Eton, 102.

Moscow, the Kremlin, 224, 334;
Testoff’s restaurant, 224;
life in, 263-64;
the Art Theatre, 265-66, 323-24;
train journey from Pensa, 318-19;
the Hôtel Dresden, 319-20, 329;
the Emperor’s manifesto read, 319-20;
the Métropole Restaurant, 320, 323;
Bauman’s funeral, 321-22;
the University, 322;
the Riding School, 322;
the Black Gang, 322-23;
events of December 1905, 324, 328-29;
Nikolayev Railway Station, 329, 331;
Riask Station, 331;
rooms of the Hon. M. Baring, 332;
Easter festivities, 334-39;
markets, 338-39;
the journey to, 363-64.

Moscow, River, 336, 350.

Mothecombe Bay, 59.

“Mothecombe” House, 59-60.

Mottl, conductor, 134, 153, 168, 216.

Mounts Bay, 85.

Mozart, 52, 186, 210.

Mozley, Mr., Eton, 103.

Mukden, 292, 304, 362, 410;
Chinese of, 275-76;
life in, 277-80.

_Mukden Nichevo_, the, 279.

Munkebjerg, 209.

Musset, Alfred de, 184;
tomb of, 94;
_On ne badine pas avec l’Amour_, 67;
_Fantasio_, 216;
_Lorenzaccio_, 233.

Nagasaki, 273.

Nan-chin-tsa village, 298.

Naples, 141, 254.

Napoleon II., 202-3.

_National Observer_, Henley’s verse, 148.

_National Review_, articles by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 261.

Naudeau, Ludovic, 276.

Nazarenko, deputy, 342-43.

Nebogatov, Admiral, 349.

Neckar, the, 374;
view of the hills, 124.

Neckarsteinar, 120.

Nemi, lake of, 259.

Nencioni, Professor, praise of the Hon. Maurice Baring, 160.

Neruda, Madame, 24, 28, 42, 43, 54, 55, 62.

Nevill, Lady Dorothy, 15.

New Forest, 79.

_New Statesman_ 1921, 147.

_New Witness (The)_, editors, 395.

_New York World_, 276.

Newton Ferrers, 39.

Newton village, 6.

Newton Wood, 43.

Nicholls, Harry, 24, 83.

Nick, Herr, 119, 131.

Nietzsche, 187.

Nijni-Novgorod, 369;
the fair at, 371-73.

Nile, the, 374;
a journey up, 169.

Nilsson, 52.

Nish, 408-10;
military hospital at, 416-17.

Norman Tower, Windsor, 110, 114, 117, 124.

Normandy Hôtel, 91.

_North Street Gazette (The)_, 390-95.

_Northcourt Nonsense_, by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 142.

Noss Mayo, 6;
building of the church, 34, 39-40.

_Notorious Mrs. Ebbsmith_, 157-58, 310.

Notre Dame des Victoires, 92, 199.

_Nozze di Figaro_, 211.

Nuremberg, 133.

Ober-Förster, Frau, 131.

Odéon Theatre, the, 228.

_Odette_, Sardou, 305;
Duse in, 309.

_Odyssey_, Virgil, 100.

Ohnet, Georges, _La Grande Marnière_, 92;
style, 151.

Ole, Dane, at the Legation, 209, 214.

Olympia, 254.

Olympus, Mount, 404.

“One Oak,” house of Miss Ethel Smyth, 140.

“Onkel Adolph,” 119, 129, 131, 135, 216.

Opéra Bouffe, 324.

⸺ Comique, 93.

Oppidans, the, 65.

Organ-building at Charles Street and Membland, 86.

_Osborne_, the, 224, 225.

_Othello_, 163;
Dr. Timme on, 127.

Otrante, Charlie d’, 216.

Otway, Mrs., Ascot, 69.

Ourousoff, Princess, 248.

_Ours_, at the Haymarket, 53.

Ousley, 114.

_Owl (The)_, 147.

Oxford, Smalls at, 141;
rooms at King Edward Street, 170-72.

Paderewski, 211.

Paget, Miss Violet. _See_ Lee, Vernon.

Paillard, Madame, 66.

⸺ Thérèse, 66.

Paine, Harry, 64.

_Pair of Spectacles (A)_, 310.

Palatine, the, 259.

_Pall Mall Gazette_, 149.

Pamflete, the Bulteels’ house, 34, 58-59.

Panshanger, 167.

Panthéon, Paris, 92.

Papal Guard, the, 253.

_Parachute_, 111, 144.

_Paradis des Enfants_, 67.

_Paradise Lost_, 138.

Paris, childish impressions, 33, 36;
visits, 66-67, 91-94, 166, 236;
the Embassy, 180-207;
exhibition of 1900, 199, 204;
Jardin d’Acclimatation, 204-5.

Paris, Archbishop of, 92.

Parker, Alexander, 65.

Paros, 256.

Parratt, Sir Walter, 103.

Parry, Hubert, 114.

_Parsifal_, 134, 153-54.

Parthenon, the, 254-55.

Pasca in _La joie fait peur_, 53.

Pasolini, Count, 248-49.

⸺ Countess, 248-49, 256.

_Passant (Le)_, Coppée, 228.

Pater, 137.

Patmore, Coventry, “Ode,” 193.

Patti, 26-27, 52.

Pechom, Robert, epitaph, 199.

Pekin, 275, 277.

_Pelléas et Mélisande_, 305.

Pensa, 317, 318.

Pera, the Little Club, 397-98, 420.

Père Lachaise, tombs, 94.

_Père Prodigue (Le)_, 140.

Perlepe, battle of, 416.

Perrin, M., 229.

Persimmon, 167.

Perugia, 158.

Peter, Danish servant, 225.

Peterhof, 342.

Petrukin, deputy, 344-45.

Pheidias, 255.

_Phèdre_, Sarah Bernhardt in, 227, 229, 231, 233, 243, 305.

Philemonov, Colonel, 283, 287-304 _passim_.

Philip, Mr., of the U.S.A. Embassy, 420-29.

Phillimore, at Ascot, 75-76.

Piatti, Signor, 24, 55.

_Pickwick_, reading of, 74.

Pierson, acting of, 93.

_Pieterbourski Listok_, the, 362.

Pincio, the, 246, 257.

Pinero, _The Hobby Horse_, 53;
_Second Mrs. Tanqueray_, 148, 309.

Piræus, 256.

Pitt Club, Cambridge, 153.

Pius IX., Pope, 38.

Planchette writing, 143.

Plarr, Victor, 149.

_Plattner Story_, Wells, 170.

Plehve, M., 368.

Ploetz, M., 109.

_Plutus_, 142.

Plymouth, 40, 41, 45.

Plympton, 41.

Poe, Edgar Allan, 112.

_Pogroms_, 389-90.

Ponsonby, Betty, 35, 54, 65, 88, 110, 112.

⸺ Arthur, 65;
at Eton, 88;
in Berlin, 135-37.

⸺ Sir Henry, 35, 65, 88, 124, 138;
announces result of the Prince Consort prize, 114-15;
quotes _Paradise Lost_, 138.

⸺ Frederick, 101.

⸺ John, 65, 88.

⸺ Fritz, 65.

⸺ Maggie, 88.

⸺ Lady, 35, 52, 65, 88, 112, 114.

Pope, _quoted_, 201.

Popoff, Nicholas, 277.

Porte Saint Martin Theatre, 92.

Porter, Mr., 97-98.

_Porteuse de Pain (La); Zampa_, 93.

Portia, Shakespeare’s, 163.

Potapoff, Colonel, 275-76.

Potemkin, 339.

Potsdam, 129.

Pourtalès, Madame de, 193-94.

Poutilov, General, 298-99.

_Princesse Lointaine_, 243.

_Prison (The)_, Brewster, 250, 252.

_Procès de Jeanne d’Arc (Le)_, 233.

_Prophète (Le)_, 92.

Prudhomme, Sully, article on, by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 226.

_Punch_, the “Hornets,” 171.

Pushkin, 248;
prose stories, 257.

_Pygmalion and Galatea_, 54.

Pyke-Nott, 83.

Pyramids, the, 169.

Quiller-Couch, 149.

Quincey, De, “Our Lady of Sorrows,” 309.

R.Y.S. Club, 45.

Rachel, 52;
genius of, 227-28.

Racine, 203, 228, 230;
_Bérénice_, 192-93;
resuscitated by Sarah Bernhardt, 243.

Radcliffe’s (House), Eton, 88.

Radford, Ernest, 149.

Ralli, boy, at Tatham’s, 143.

Ram Head, 40.

Ramsay, at Cambridge, 146.

⸺ editor of the _Mayfly_, 111.

Rashleigh, at Eton, 89-90.

Rawlins, Mr., 104.

Rawlinson, 29.

Reade, Charles, _Foul Play_, 106.

Reading Biscuit Factory, 76.

_Real Gymnasium_, the, Hildesheim, 119-20, 128-29.

Recouly, of the _Temps_, 276.

Reed, German, 17.

Reform Club, 147.

Regattas, 44-45.

Régnier, M. Henri de, on parodies by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 194-195.

Reichemberg, acting of, 92, 230.

Réjane, in _Zaza_, 197;
as Nora, 210.

“Rekrutskaya,” 408.

Renaissance theatre, 92, 233, 242.

Renan, parody on, 194-95.

Rennes verdict, the, 196-97.

Residenz Theater, 136.

Reske, Jean de, 52, 92.

_Retvizan_, torpedoed, 263.

Revelstoke Church, 36, 40.

⸺ Lady, 15, 16, 22, 27, 37, 39;
and Madame Neruda, 28;
yachting, 45;
chess-playing, 47-48;
Schiller’s “Die Glocke,” 50-51;
and the opera, 52-53;
at Stafford House, 54-55;
a pantomime, 63-64;
Contrexéville, 66;
the Ascot school, 68-69;
the first half-term report, 73-75;
school incidents, 76, 80-81;
Ascot races, 79-80;
the Eastbourne school, 84;
the organ at Charles Street, 86;
her son’s confirmation, 101;
the financial crisis, 113;
visits to Eton, 114;
and the Prince Consort Prize, 115;
death, 135.

⸺ Lord, 14, 27, 47, 130, 157;
appreciation of acting, 24, 51-53, 63-64;
yachting, 44;
versatility of, 50-51;
gifts of, 55-56;
bigness of his character, 56-57:
Contrexéville, 65-66;
at Cowes, 85;
the financial crisis, 113;
death, 177.

_Rêves de Marguerite (Les)_, 86.

_Revue Bleue_, 234.

Rhodes, 256.

Rhymers’ Club, 147-48;
_Book of the Rhymers’ Club_, 147, 149, 150;
_Second Book of the Rhymers’ Club_, 147, 150.

Rhys, Ernest, 149.

Riazan Station, 318.

Riazhk, 318.

Ribinsk, 368, 369.

Ries, Mr., 12, 24.

Ristori, Madame, 227, 245-46.

Ritchie children, the, 180.

Ritz Hotel, Sarah Bernhardt at the, 237-39.

_Robe Rouge (La)_, 197.

_Robert Macaire_, 93.

Roberts, Arthur, 8.

Robertson, Sir Forbes, 239.

Roche, M., on the Hon. Maurice essay, 177.

Rod, Edouard, 184, 195.

⸺ Sir Rennell, 245.

Roe, Mr., 34.

Roebuck shooting in South Russia, 388-89.

_Rois (Les)_, Lemaître, 233.

Rolleston, T. W., 149.

_Roman de la Rose (Le)_, 143, 152.

_Romanesques (Les)_, 233.

Rome, life at the Embassy, 245, 259-60;
Appian Way, 246;
Campagna, 246, 258-59;
Palazzo Sciarra, 248;
Palazzo Antici Mattei, 249-50;
expeditions, 256;
the Pincio, 257;
Villa d’Este, 258-59;
Tivoli, 259.

Romney Weir, 117.

Ronconi, 52.

Rose, Mlle, of the _petits chevaux_, 66.

Rossetti, 112, 139, 170.

⸺ Christina, 148.

Rossini, 52.

Rostand, M., _L’Aiglon_, 199-204;
_Les Romanesques_, 232-33;
_Samaritaine_, 233;
the creation of Sarah Bernhardt, 242.

⸺ Madame, 204.

Rothschild château, 205.

Rotten Row, 25.

Roublot, M., 98.

Rowland, sock-shop, 95.

Rubini, 52.

Rudel, Geoffrey, 244.

_Rundreise_, 133.

Runnymede, 114.

Ruskin, 381;
_The King of the Golden River_, 20;
Arthur Benson and, 112.

Russell, Bertram, 145.

⸺ Claud, 166, 168-70.

⸺ Miss Katie, 62.

⸺ Miss Maud, 62.

Russia, dark nights in Central, 4;
the October manifesto, 212;
the journey to, 218-19, 261;
life among the _intelligentsia_, 264-65;
the State-paid theatres, 265;
constitutional government promised, 319;
beginning of the Revolution, 332 _et seq._;
the Empress at Peterhof, 342;
the people and the priests, 354-55;
effect of M. Stolypin’s policy, 357-58;
the second Duma, 367;
the beggars of, 377;
South Russia, 386-90;
the third Duma, 390;
books on Russian matters, 395;
pilgrims from, in Constantinople, 400-1;
the fascination of, 430 _et seq._

_Russkoe Slovo_, the, 349.

_Ruy Blas_, Hugo, 228, 243.

St. James’s Hall concerts, 23-24, 139.

St. James’s Theatre, _A Scrap of Paper_, 28;
Mr. Hare at the, 53;
Mrs. Kendal’s acting, 310-11.

St. John Lateran, church of, 199.

St. Michael’s Mount, 85.

St. Peter’s, 246, 259-60;
Holy Week ceremonies, 253.

St. Petersburg, 269, 311, 324;
the Winter Palace, 263;
Art Theatre, 266;
opening of the Duma, 339-41;
journey from Moscow, 352-55;
a journey down the Volga, 368.

St. Sophia, Constantinople, 398.

Saint Victor, M. Castillon de, 204.

St. Vincent’s School, Eastbourne, 82.

Sainte Beuve, 117.

Sainte Chapelle, 92.

Sainte Geneviève, 92.

Salisbury, Lord, foreign policy, 166, 173, 178-79.

Salle, M. Georges La, 269.

Samara, 314, 315, 375, 378.

_Samaritaine (La)_, 243.

Samary, acting of, 92.

Samsonoff, General, 280.

San Marino, Duchess of, 38.

San Stefano, the cholera at, 419-29.

Sand, George, 235.

Sanderson, Lord, 179-80.

Santley, Sir Charles, 24, 27.

Sappho, “Ode to Aphrodite,” 256.

Saratov, features, 375, 378.

Sarcey, on Sarah Bernhardt, 228-29;
on Racine, 243.

Sardou, 141, 199;
_Pattes de Mouche_, 28;
_Belle Maman_, 93;
plays of, 231, 233;
_Fédora_, 305, 309;
_Odette_, 305, 309.

_Saturday Review_, 158, 195;
articles by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 261.

Sazonoff, M., 247-48.

_Scenes from Country Life_, 267.

_Schauspielhaus_, the, 136.

Scheidemantel, 134.

Schneider, Madame, at San Stefano, 421-22, 424-29.

Schiller, 126-27;
“Die Glocke,” 50-51;
_Wallenstein’s Tod_, 120;
_Brant von Messina_, 128;
compared with Shakespeare, 163;
and Goethe, 164;
_quoted_, 382.

Schliemann, Dr., 112.

Schön, M., 208.

_School_, at the Haymarket, 53.

Schools, Russian evening, 326-29.

Schubert, “Der Leiermann,” 388.

Schultzen, Fräulein, 131.

Schumann, Clara, 335.

Schwartz, Lieut. von, 276.

Schwerin, boy, 128.

Scoones, Mr., establishment of, 154-56, 167-69.

Scott, Herbert, 88, 89.

⸺ Sir Charles, 263.

⸺ Sir Walter, 49, 53, 112.

Scribe and Legouvé, _Adrienne Lecouvreur_, 308-9.

Scyra, 256.

_Seagull_, Tchekov, 265-66.

_Second Mrs. Tanqueray_, Pinero, 148, 309.

Sedan, 196.

Servia, occupation of Uskub, 414-16;
patriotism, 416-17;
Bulgarian and Servian language compared, 411-12.

_Seven Summers_, Carr-Bosanquet, 144.

Sforza, Catherine, 248.

Sha-ho river, battle of the, 297-303.

Shakespeare, German cult of, 126-27;
and Schiller, 163;
in Copenhagen, 210;
Brewster on the production of, 251-52;
_Julius Cæsar_ in Moscow, 266;
Nazarenko’s opinion of, 343;
Sonnets of, 365.

Shaw, Mr. Bernard, on Mrs. Campbell’s acting, 157-58;
_Dramatic Opinions and Essays_, 234;
on Mrs. Kendal’s acting, 311.

_She_, 107.

_She Stoops to Conquer_, 83.

Shelley, 110, 140, 186;
Arthur Benson and, 112;
reputation, 126;
_Adonaïs_, 161, 163;
grave in Rome, 246.

Shelton, Mr., 83.

Sheppy, housekeeper, 9, 27-28, 81.

Shorthouse, 105.

Shuvaloff, Countess, 263.

Sichkhov, General, 283.

Siddons, Mrs., 227.

Simpson of the _Daily Telegraph_, 276.

Singing, Russian, 273-74, 351, 432-33.

Sin-min-tin, 292.

Sixtine Chapel, Mass in the, 253.

Skat, card game, 124, 131.

Slap’s band, 176.

_Sleuthhound_, cutter, 45.

Slough, 84.

Smielo, 388-89.

Smith, George, 113.

⸺ Sidney, 30.

Smyth, Dr., on Tosti’s art, 61.

⸺ General, 139.

⸺ Miss Ethel, her Mass at the Albert Hall, 138-39;
songs, 139-40;
in Copenhagen, 215;
_Fantasio_, 216.

Sofia, 417;
the railway station, 409-10.

Somotka, 382.

“Song of the Scug (The),” 111.

_Sophy, or the Adventures of a Savage_, Violet Fane, 245.

So-shan-tse hill, 287-90.

Sosnofka, visits to, 218-24, 260, 382, 438.

Sothern, Sam, 51.

_Souris (La)_, 86.

South African War, 236-37.

_Speaker_, the, 147, 149;
the Hon. Maurice Baring’s article on _L’Aiglon_, 200-3.

Spencer, Herbert, works, 343.

⸺ Lady Sarah, 68-69.

⸺ Robert, 15, 135.

Spring-Rice, Cecil, 191, 263, 324.

Stackelberg, General, 288, 292.

Stafford House parties, 54-55, 74.

Stamboul, 397-400, 411.

_Standard_, the, 304.

Stanislavsky, M., 265, 323.

Stanley, Arthur, 171.

⸺ Miss Maude, 62.

Steamers of the Volga, 375-76.

Stephen, J. K., poem by, 111;
at Eton, 112.

Stevenson, R. L., 53, 105-7, 137, 185;
_Ebb Tide_, 148;
saying of, _quoted_, 437-38.

Stewart, at Eton, 89.

Stolypin, M., 332;
and Russia’s future, 341-42;
policy of, 356-57;
Count Witte on, 368.

“Stop-shorts,” 313.

Story-tellers, Russian, 272-73.

Strong, Arthur, and the Dreyfus case, 185-86;
on _L’Aiglon_, 204.

Studd, at Eton, 103-4.

_Students’ Humour (The)_, 111.

Stump Debating Society, 143.

Sturmer, Miss Van, 22.

Sucher, Rose, 134.

Sudermann, _Die Ehre_, 136;
_Magda_, 233.

Sully, Mounet, 92, 230.

Sunflower season in Russia, 381-82.

Sunium, 255.

Surley, 95.

Sveaborg, 362.

Swinburne, 126, 137, 139, 170, 232;
Eton “Ode,” 102, 114;
_Atalanta in Calydon_, 112;
_Astrophel_, 148;
opinions on, 155;
Jowett and, 364.

Switzerland, appreciation, 130.

_Sylvie and Bruno_, 180.

Symons, Arthur, 147-49, 155.

Tauchnitz, Baron, 154, 370.

Taurid palace, meeting of the Duma in, 339-40.

Taglioni, Madame, 26.

Taine, 186;
_Voyage aux Pyrénées_, 114;
article on, by M. Barry, 226.

Takmakov, officer, 297.

Talaat Bey, 398.

Tambov, 380-81.

Tamburini, 52.

_Tannhäuser_, 120, 134, 153, 162.

Tarver, Lily, 142.

⸺ Mr. Frank, 99.

Tashichiao, battlefield of, 280-81.

_Tasso_, 126.

Tatham, Mr., 142-43.

Tchataldja, 419.

Tchekov, tomb of, 264;
plays of, 265-68.

⸺ _Uncle Vania_, 269;
_Chaika_, 323.

Tchelabinsk, 352-53.

Tea-drinking in Russia, 350.

_Temple Bar_, poem by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 113.

Temple, Bishop, 40.

_Temps_, the, 276.

Tennyson, 110, 126, 148, 150;
“May Queen,” 56.

Terrioki, Labour meeting at, 345-47.

Terry, Ellen, art of, 24, 52, 56;
as Beatrice, 310.

_Tess of the D’Urbervilles_, Hardy, 148.

Thackeray, _Vanity Fair_, 112.

_Thalers_, reckoning by, 129.

“The Game,” 161-63.

_The Greatest of These_, 310.

Théâtre Antoine, 197.

Théâtre français, 36, 53, 92, 93, 140, 192;
Sarah Bernhardt’s connection with, 228-31.

Théâtre Sarah Bernhardt, 187.

Thekla, Schiller’s, 163.

_Théodora_, Sardou, 231.

Thompson, Francis, _The Hound of Heaven_, 150.

Thompson, Mr., 39.

_Thoughts on Art and Life_, Leonardo da Vinci, 260-61.

Tillet, M. J. de, 234.

_Times (The)_, 115, 127, 163, 247, 418;
the Hon. Maurice Baring and, 395.

Timme, Dr., house of, 118-19, 124, 128-32, 135, 154, 160-61, 172-73;
on the English poets, 126-72;
death, 176.

Todhunter, John, 149.

Todten-Insel, 256.

Tolstoy, 137, 219, 235, 248;
_War and Peace_, 168;
_Powers of Darkness_, 210;
Nazarenko’s opinion of, 343.

⸺ Alexis, _Tropar_, 257-58.

Toole, art of, 51.

Toombs, Mr., carpenter, 7-8.

_Tosca (La)_, Sarah Bernhardt in, 107-8, 231-32.

Tosti, art of, 61.

Toula, 315.

Tourgenev, 219, 248, 259.

Tovey, Donald, at Balliol, 171-72, 180.

Transbaikalian railway, 311.

Trans-Siberian railway, experiences, 277, 314.

Traverso, Madame, 140, 156-59.

_Treasure Island_, 50, 74.

Trebelli, 52.

Tree as Svengali, 310.

Trepov, General, 341, 355.

Tresco, 85.

Trevelyan, Robert, 145.

Trevi, 259.

Trianon, 206.

Triolets, 142-43.

_Tristan und Isolda_, 134.

Trollope, 48.

_Tropar_, Alexis Tolstoy, 257-58.

True Cross, a relic of the, 38.

Tsaritsina, near Moscow, 347, 378, 380-81.

Tudgay, Mrs., 38-39, 42, 62.

Turgeniev, 431.

Turkish character, 425-27.

⸺ Red Crescent, 422, 427-28;
British unit, 427-28.

Turkey, Revolution of May 1909, 395, 397-98.

Turin, 169.

Tusini, Mlle, 66.

Tver, 368.

Twain, Mark, in German, 223.

_Unbearable Bassington (The)_, 333.

_Uncle Vania_, Tchekov, 266-69.

Ushitai, town of, 312.

Uskub, 407, 410, 411;
Serbian occupation, 412-17;
Hôtel de la Liberté, 413.

Vandal, Albert, 199.

Vandyk in _Lohengrin_, 153.

Vardar river, the, 413.

Vassili, coachman, 326.

Vaudeville, the Paris, 265.

Vaughan, Kate, 24.

Vaux, château of, 206.

Venice, 141;
nights in, 4.

Verdi, 52;
_Otello_, 120.

Verlaine, Paul, 139;
poetry of, 184;
Brewster on, 250-51.

Verne, Jules, 49;
_Michael Strogoff_, 220.

Verrall, Dr., on Boileau, 152;
stories by, 152-53.

Versailles, 92, 153, 198.

Vesuvius Mount, 167.

Viatka, 358.

Victoria, Queen, 8;
Jubilee, 85, 176;
opens New Schools at Eton, 108;
bestows the Prince Consort prize on the Hon. Maurice Baring, 114-15;
a story of Prince Albert and, 131;
funeral procession, 215-16.

_Vieux Paris (Le)_, reconstruction of, 93.

Vigny, Alfred de, 203;
_Cinq Mars_, 114.

Villa Felseck, 124-25.

Vinci, Leonardo da, _Thoughts on Art and Life_, 260-61.

“Vindt,” game of, 374, 387.

Virginia water, 76.

_Visite de Noces (La)_, Duse in, 308.

Vogt, Heinrich (Tristan), 134.

Vogüé, Melchior de, 195.

Volga, a journey down the, 368;
aspect beyond Nijni, 374;
towns of the Upper, 378-79.

Vologda, a journey to, 358-66.

Voltaire, _Zaïre_, 229.

Voronezh, 401.

Vranja, 412.

Wagner, 52, 133-35;
_Tannhäuser_, 120;
Arthur Strong on, 186;
Vernon Lee on, 186-87;
in Copenhagen, 210.

Wagram, battle of, 202.

Waldorf Theatre, Duse at the, 305.

Wales, Prince of (Edward VII.), marriage, 25;
in Paris, 193.

⸺ Princess, 24-25;
parties at Marlborough House, 54-55, 80.

Walkley, Mr., 149;
on Sarah Bernhardt, 232-33.

Wallace, Lew, _Ben Hur_, 106.

Wallington, 38.

_War and Peace_, Tolstoy, 168.

Ward, Arnold, 170;
at Eton, 111;
Arthur Benson and, 112.

⸺ Mrs. Humphry, 111;
_Robert Elsmere_, 106;
_David Grieve_, 148.

Warre, Dr., at Eton, 14, 46, 81, 99.

Warsaw, 218-19.

_Wasp_, steam launch, 45.

Waterlooville, home of Chérie, 114.

_Waterwitch_, the yacht, 44-45, 85.

Watson, Mr., butler, 27.

⸺ William, poems, 147-48, 157.

Watteau, at the Louvre, 67.

Watts, exhibitions, 56.

Webb, Godfrey, 62;
lines on Christmas at Membland, 42-43.

Wells, Mr. H. G., _History of the World_, 47;
_Plattner Story_, 170;
_Food of the Gods_, 285.

Westmacott, Lady, 427.

Westminster Abbey, underground passage to, 390.

_Westminster Gazette_, 333.

Westwater, Dr., 280, 282.

_When we Dead Awaken_, 211.

_When William Came_, 333.

Whibley, Charles, 148.

Whigham, correspondent, 275.

Whyte-Melville, 48, 106.

Wigans, the, 51.

Wilde, Oscar, 324;
_Lady Windermere’s Fan_, 148.

Wildenbruch, Count, 208.

Williams, stationer, Eton, 95, 117.

Wilton, Marie (Mrs. Bancroft), 53.

Winchester match, the, 112.

Windsor, Norman Tower, 65, 87-88;
shops, 95;
St. George’s Chapel, 103.

Wippern, Eric, 161, 175, 311.

⸺ Hans, 132-33, 161.

Witchcraft, in Moscow, 349-50.

Witte, Count, 332;
interview with, 367.

Wood, Charlie, 88.

⸺ Francis, 88.

Wordsworth, 186.

Worms, 93.

Worthington, schoolfellow, 70, 79.

Wrest, 167-68.

Wyndham, Mr. Percy, 62.

⸺ Mrs. Percy, 62.

Yantai, battle of, 295-96.

Yapsley, Mr., 40.

Yaroslav, journey to, 363-64, 370.

Yashville, Prince, 389.

Yealm River, 6, 39, 44.

Yealmpton, 34.

Yeats, W. B., 149-50.

_Yellow Book (The)_, 147;
article on Anatole France by the Hon. Maurice Baring, 157.

Yonge, Miss, 49.

York, Duke of, at Heidelberg, 135.

Young Turk Party, 397-98.

Zacchoni, actor, 311.

Zacharoff, General, 311-12.

_Zaïre_, Voltaire, 229.

_Zaza_, 197.

Zerbini, 24.

Zhilkin, M., 346.

Zola, 163, 343.

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End of Project Gutenberg's The Puppet Show of Memory, by Maurice Baring