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Chapter XXII: From the River Plate to the Andes 438

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ILLUSTRATIONS

A Vanishing Figure—“Gaucho” in full costume _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

One of the Crowded Docks in the Port of Buenos Ayres 4

Friends of Emigrants Awaiting Arrival of a Ship 4

Paseo Colón, with Government House on the Right 12

The Narrow Streets of Buenos Ayres—Florida and San Martín 22

The Changing Heart of Buenos Ayres—Plaza de Mayo 34

Exterior and Interior of the “Casa Rosada” 44

Statue of San Martín in Buenos Ayres 52

The Colón Theatre, Buenos Ayres 60

Exterior of the Jockey Club, Buenos Ayres 68

The New Courts of Justice 76

The Palatial Home of _La Prensa_, Buenos Ayres 88

A Princely Sanctum Room of the _Prensa’s_ Chief Editor 96

A Corner of the Medical Consulting Room of the _Prensa_ 96

Bedroom of Distinguished Visitors’ Suite in _Prensa_ Office 106

The Gorgeously Decorated Salon in the _Prensa_ Office 106

A Contrast in Public Buildings—Art Gallery and Waterworks Office 112

English “Pro-Cathedral” in Buenos Ayres 118

Roman Catholic Cathedral, Buenos Ayres 118

“La Merced,” a Typical Buenos Ayres Church 124

“Teatro de la Opera,” Exterior View 124

The Luxurious Domestic Architecture of Buenos Ayres 136

Terminus of the Southern Railway at Plaza Constitucion, Buenos
Ayres 148

Marble Fountain in the Gardens of the Paseo Colón, Buenos Ayres 158

Plaza Francia, in the Avenida Alvear, Buenos Ayres 158

Prize Bulls at Buenos Ayres Agricultural Show 166

Summer Scenes on the Tigre 174

Views of Mar del Plata 182

Suburban and Rural Roads in the Argentine 190

An Argentine “Gaucho” in his Hours of Ease 198

Italian “Colonos” and their “Rancho” in the Argentine 206

A Village Wheelwright in the Argentine “Camp” 206

Preparing the Picnic Meal—“Un Asada” in the Argentine 214

Fields of Maize 222

Bags of Wheat Awaiting Shipment 230

Three Huge Piles of “Jerked Beef” at a “Saladero” 230

A Scene in the “Camp”—Peones Outside a “Pulperia,” or Country
Grocery and Liquor Store 240

A “Ramada,” or Shaded Resting-Place for Men and Horses 254

An “Estancia” Homestead of the Old Clay-Built Type 266

A Modern “Estancia” Homestead Built of Concrete 282

A “Rodeo,” or Round-Up of Cattle in the Argentine Pampa 294

Familiar Scenes on an “Estancia” 310

Teams of Oxen Ploughing in the Argentine Pampa 318

Montevideo from the South, Showing the Cerro with Its Fort 332

Shipping in the Roadstead at Montevideo 332

General View of Montevideo and the River Plate 344

Plaza Independencia, Montevideo 350

Plaza Libertad, or Cagancha, Montevideo 350

Cathedral and Plaza Matriz, Montevideo 356

Plaza Independencia and Avenida 18 de Julio, Montevideo 356

The “Rambla” at Pocitos, Montevideo 364

Bathing Place at Ramírez, Montevideo 364

Main Buildings of Montevideo University 372

The Solis Theatre, Montevideo 372

Scene in the Parque Urbano of Montevideo 382

A Rural Glimpse in the Prado, Montevideo 382

Cattle Assembled on “La Tablada,” Near Montevideo 390

Types of the Fantastic Domestic Architecture of Montevideo 408

Typical Country Road in Uruguay 418

Hides Drying at a Curing Factory Near Montevideo 418

The Calle San Martín, Mendoza 432

A Glimpse of the River Mendoza 432

The Natural Bridge of Puente del Inca 440

The Inca’s Lake in the Andes 446

The Christ of the Andes 446

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The real Argentine: Notes and Impressions of a Year in the Argentine and UruguayChapter XXII: From the River Plate to the Andes 438

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