Chapter VIII: The Estuary (3)

Out of this small enclosure you push through a narrow waterway into Hoveton Great Broad, a lake of quite another type, particularly Dutch-like in its surroundings. Productive arable land stretches right and left, and windmills mark the horizon all round; no point of the prospect is without its square-towered church or red-tiled houses. So shallow are many portions of Hoveton Broad, that as you sweep through the light beds of reeds, forcing the graceful growths out of your course, there are often not eighteen inches of water beneath your keel, and the Dutch flavour before mentioned is intensified by the appearance of large clumsy boats, laden high with cut reeds, to be used hereafter as fodder.

Horning Ferry, a well-known waterside resting-place, may be taken as a typical feature of village life in these parts. At a bend in the river Bure you arrive at a village with granaries, and the red-tiled cottages of a long street close to the water's edge. There are heaps of produce on the bank, a fleet of boats-of-all-work, wherries waiting for cargoes, and a huge windmill on the low ridge behind this quaint country settlement. You sail close to the walls of the village street, and it is expected that you offer a largesse of coppers to the sunbrowned children who run along, keeping pace with the boat, and singing a hymn, as the Horning children have done from time immemorial, in praise of John Barleycorn. All the yachtsmen coming and going halt at Horning Ferry, lounge upon the smooth-shaven lawn, and enjoy the comforts of a civilised inn; for the first time, perchance, for days, in the case of men who have been roughing it in wherries or smaller boats. In the hotel parlour may be noticed a case of stuffed birds, containing excellent specimens of the beautiful summer teal, black tern, solitary fowl, and jack-snipes, and two or three rare visitants, all shot by the proprietor of the hotel. Guns, fishing-rods, hunting pictures, whips and spurs, adorning the walls, give an air of sport to the place both welcome and fitting.

The largest Broad in the north-eastern part of the district I have already nominated as Hickling, which also includes Whitely and Chapman's Broad. Horsey Mere is, however, still further east, and it is a lovely bit of wild water, with an abundance of tall poplars around the shores, and most picturesquely reeded. By proceeding up Palling Dyke, on the trip to which I have once or twice referred, I was able to stroll across to the beach, through the sand dunes, and inhale the real odour of brine from the ocean. On the way I passed the blackened ribs of a wrecked ship protruding from the silver sand which had been drifting year by year with the kindly object of burying them out of sight. The dunes here are high embankments of sand, covered with spear-like grass. Looking east was the blue sea and its ships and steamers; west was a sunshiny land, dotted with villages and farms. Barton Broad is a detached lake of considerable size; and in an opposite direction, south-east, is the long, narrow collection of Broads--Filby, Rollesby, and Ormesby--one expanse of water, independent of the rivers and cuts which abound in every other part of the district of the Broads. This peculiar piece of water straggles along a length of three miles, and throws out queerly shaped arms both east and west.

The attractions for visitors to the Broads are sailing, and sport with rod and gun. The country is so sparsely populated that the visitor has to provide rations for himself, and is, when once upon the Broads, far away from the noise of the world. The angler who has read glowing accounts of the sport to be obtained is likely to be disappointed at the large proportion of the water which is in private hands. The Broads and rivers abound with bream and roach; and there are pike, perch, and eels. In some of the Broads the rudd, which is first-cousin to the roach, occurs in incredible quantities, and affords capital fly-fishing on summer evenings off the fringes of the reedy thickets. A wholesale system of poaching, which has not been completely stopped by the special legislation provided by the Norfolk and Suffolk Freshwater Fisheries Act of 1877, has, however, of late years inflicted much injury. In his description of the marriage of Thames and Medway, Spenser selects the Yare as having--

"With him brought a present joyfully
Of his own fish unto their festival,
Which like none else could show; the which they ruffins call."

By "ruffins" Spenser means the pope or ruffe, the voracious little impostor that pretends to be a perch, and that is often a nuisance to the East Anglian fisherman. According to Cuvier, this fish was discovered by Dr. Caius, who was a native of Norwich, and who, taking a ruffe in the Yare, sent it to Gesner.

* * * * *

Though the Episcopal City of Norwich is its great inland headquarters, Yarmouth is considered to be the capital of the Broads district. In the literal sense of the term these are well-known towns. Norwich abounds with old streets and houses, as becomes a city said to be of more than fourteen centuries date. Kings of East Anglia dwelt in its castle, or were ejected from it, as Saxons and Danes in turn carried it by storm. The keep and outer vallum are well preserved, and in celebration of the Queen's Jubilee the building has been dedicated to the purposes of a County Museum. The cathedral, with its lofty steeple, and the Bishop's Palace, are fine monuments of an historical past, and one of the palace apartments is lined with a carved oak wainscot, brought from the St. Benet's Abbey mentioned on a preceding page.

Yarmouth, at the mouth of the Yare, is the Margate, if not the Brighton, of East Anglia. The narrow "rows" or connecting alleys between the main thoroughfares of the oldest portion of the town have a renown all their own. They are the principal curiosities of this emporium of fish-curing, and may be taken as a foil to the magnificent market-place, covering nearly three acres of flagged area. The types of men and women who gather here at the Saturday market are of a most varied and interesting kind; and the booths, like the comfortable country folks who furnish them, are just what they have been during the lifetime of the oldest inhabitant. The far-stretching yellow sands are the abiding strength of Yarmouth as a watering-place, and they give the place a steady average of prosperity which seaside resorts without so noble a beach cannot reckon upon. Of the remains left of the ancient walls, North Gate, bearing the date of 1396, is the best, but there are many venerable buildings worthy of inspection, such as the Elizabethan house on South Quay, built in 1596. The Market Place, as before indicated, is one of the largest in the country; and the grand parish church of St. Nicholas at its foot enjoys the same distinction. In all but name it is a cathedral of which any diocese might be proud.

W. SENIOR.

FOOTNOTES.

[1] Suffer in patience.

[2] "Our Own Country" (Alton Towers), Vol. IV., p. 234.

[3] "Our Own Country," Vol. VI., p. 155.

[4] "Beauties of England and Wales," Vol. IX., p. 566.

[5] A. J. Jukes-Browne, "Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society," Vol. XXXIX., p. 606.

[6] It is called Aldreth; there was here some twenty years since an old wooden bridge, of which the late Professor Freeman (with whom I first visited the place) wrote in his "Norman Conquest" (vol. iv., p. 465), "It looked very much as if it had been broken down by Hereward, and not mended since." A few years later I found it had almost disappeared.

[7] Much information not only on this, but also on many other questions relating to the fens, will be found in Messrs. Miller and Skertchly's book "The Fenland."

[8] The Author, "Cambridgeshire Geology," p. 8.

INDEX.

Abbey Craig, Stirling, 50, 51

Abbotsford, 104, 105

Aberdeen, Meadows of, 2, 15, 16

Aberdour, 62

Aberfeldy, "Birks" of, 10, 24

Aberfoyle, 43;
proximity to the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, 44

Abergeldie, 10, 11

Aberlady, 70;
the golf links, 70

Abernethy, 34

Aboyne, 14

Achray, Loch, 46

Ad Fines Camps, 115

Agricola, Estimate of the Tay by, 17, 18;
camp of, 18;
association of with Cilurnum, 142;
Corstopitum and, 153

Aire, The, 318

Aldborough, Importance of in Roman times, 311, 312;
Crabbe and, 362

Allan Water, 47, 48

Allen, River, 148, 149

Alloa, 47, 53, 54

Alrewas, Registers of, 236

Alston, 144, 145

Alwinton, 116, 117

Amble, Dreary, 127

Ancrum Moor, The fight at, 94, 102

Angus, 38

Anson, Admiral George, 232

Antonine, Wall of, 54

Ardoch, Roman Camp of, 48

Armstrang, Johnie, 95

Armstrong, Lord, Residence of, 120, 121

Ashbourne, The Divine of, 246, 247

Ashestiel, Association of Scott with, 106

Ashford-in-the-Water, 266, 267

Athole, Earls of, Castle of the, 35

Augustine, Saint, 144;
on Cross Fell, 144;
at Alston, 145

Avondhu, River, 43

Axe Edge, 241

Ayleburn, 145

Baliols, The, and Barnard Castle, 206

Ballater, 11

Balleichan, 24

Ballengeich, 50

Ballinluig, 22

Balmoral, History of, 7, 8;
situation and beauty of, 8;
the castle, 8-10;
the Queen and her "journal," 10

Banbury, 342

Bannockburn, Battle of, 50, 51

Bannock, River, 47

Barnard Castle, 206, 207

Barton, 322

Barty of the Comb, 134, 135

Bass Rock, Firth of Forth, 63, 64;
the Covenanters' Prison, 64;
"No Surrender," 64;
viewed from Tantallon Castle, 70

Beamsley, 304

Bear Park, 191

Beaudesert, 235

Beccles, 365

Bedford, 342

Bellingham, Comparison of with Donnybrook, 135, 136

Belper, 271, 272

Ben Alder, 22

Ben An, 45;
as a feature of Loch Achray, 46

Ben Chonzie, 35

Ben Cleuch, 51

Benedict (Biscopius), Labours of, 195, 196

Ben Lawers, 23

Ben Ledi, 46, 47

Ben Lomond, Romantic characteristics of, 42;
as the source of the Forth, 42;
"Rob Roy's" country, 42;
adjacent beauties, 42;
extensive prospect from, 42;
form of, 42;
as a feature of Loch Katrine, 45

Ben Macdhui, 2

Ben Venue, 45;
the "Coir-nan-Uriskin," 45;
in relation to Loch Achray, 46

Ben Voirlich, 35, 42;
as seen from Ben Ledi, 46

Ben-y-Gloe, 22

Beresford Hall, Charles Cotton and, 243, 244;
Hero's tower, 244

Berwick-on-Tweed, Position of, 75;
Halidon Hill, 75, 78;
the town walls, 75, 78;
as seen from the south bank, 75;
the old bridge, 75;
Tweedmouth, 75;
Spittal, 75;
Royal Border Bridge, 75;
view to the Cheviots, 75;
the outlook seawards, 75;
as a Saxon settlement, 77;
advent of the Danes, 77;
the town of the Scot, 77;
sold by John Baliol, 77;
stormed by Edward, 77, 78;
crushed into insignificance, 78;
emancipated by Robert Bruce, 78;
made English once more, 78;
the castle ruins, 78;
as a garrison town, 78;
the parish church, 78, 79;
the Town Hall, 79;
the curfew bell, 79;
churches without names, 79

Bewick, Thomas, Birthplace of, 155

Biddick, 194

Binchester (Binovium), 180

Birnam, Perthshire, 23, 25

Birse, Parish of, 14

Bishop Auckland, Palace and park of, 179;
castle of, 179

Bishopthorpe, Archbishop's palace at, 315

Bishop Wearmouth and Paley's "Evidences," 196

Black Adder, River, 79

Black Mount, 20

Blackwater (or Pant), The: Scenery of, 352;
source of, 352;
Saffron-Walden, 352, 353;
Hempstead and William Harvey, 353;
Cadham Hall and the author of "Hudibras," 353;
Spain's Hall, 353;
Bocking Church, 353;
Braintree, 353;
Stisted Park and Stisted Vale, 354;
Coggeshall, 354;
Feering and Bishop Bonner, 354;
Kelvedon Bridge, 354;
Felix Hall, 354;
Braxted Lodge, 354;
Tiptree Hall Farm, 354;
Witham, 354;
Maldon, 355;
confluence with the Chelmer, 357;
Mersea Island and Pyefleet, 357, 358

Blair in Athole, 21, 22

Bochastle, Roman encampment of, 46

Bolton Abbey, 301, 302

Bolton Percy, 308

Bo'ness, 54;
pig-iron industry of, 54

Boroughbridge, Historical interest of, 311

Boston, 332-334

Bracklinn, Falls of, 47

Braeriach, Mount, 2

Braes of Doune, The, 35

Braintree, 353

Brancepeth, Castle of, 180, 181

Breadalbane Family, Seat of the, 23

Bridge of Earn, Perthshire, 34

Brig of Turk, The, 46

Brinkburn, Priory of, 122;
its history, 122

Broads, East Anglian, Locality of the, 363;
as a summer resort, 363;
a wild-fowler's paradise, 363;
recent revelation of, 363;
Holland in England, 363;
character of the rivers, 363;
a typical
example, 365;
lake area of, 365;
Horsey Mere, 365, 366;
Hickling Broads, 365, 366;
colour of the waters, 365;
a characteristic district, 366;
up the Bure from Yarmouth, 366;
St. Benet's Abbey, 366, 367;
Wroxham Broad, 367;
Salhouse Broad, 367;
Hoveton Great Broad, 367;
Horning Ferry, 367, 368;
from Broad to sea, 368, 369;
Barton Broad, 369;
a curious trio, 369;
the fish to be caught, 369;
Norwich, 369;
Yarmouth, 370

Bruar, River, 21

Bruce, Chase of in Perthshire, 19

Bure, The, _see_ "Broads"

Burnet, Bishop, Birthplace of, 215

Burnsall, Well-Worship at, 297, 298

Burslem, Earthenware of, 223, 224

Burton-on-Trent, 238, 239

Burtreeford, Leadmines of, 175

Bywell, 154

Cairngorm Mountains, 2

Cairntoul, Mount, 2

Caldron Snout, A fallacy concerning, 197;
a splendid cataract, 199

Canning, Delight of in Dove Dale, 246

Cannock Chase, 234

Callander, 46;
view from bridge of, 46, 47

Callater, Loch and Glen, 13

Cambridge, _see_ "Cam"

Cambuskenneth, Abbey of, 48

Cambusmore, 47

Campsie Hills, 43

Cam, The, at Cambridge, 343;
a unique mile, 343;
constituent streams, 343;
Queen's College, 343;
King's College, 343;
Clare College, 343;
University Library, 343;
Clare College bridge and gardens, 343;
Trinity Hall, 343, 344;
St. John's College, 344;
the town bridge, 344;
Magdalene College, 344;
the boating reach, 344, 345;
through fertile fields, 345;
a sleepy land, 346;
the Isle of Ely, 346;
twixt fire and morass, 346;
Ely Cathedral, 346, 317

Carchonzie, River, 46

Castle Donington, 256

Castle Hedingham, 358

Castleton, Caverns of, 259

Castleton of Braemar, 6, 7

Castor, 339

Cawood, Wolsey and, 315

Chad, Saint, A legend concerning, 227, 252

Chantrey, Sir Francis, 246, 247

Charltons, Home of the, 135

Chartley Castle, 227, 228

Chatsworth, 261-263

Chellaston fossils, 256

Chelmer, The, Commercial value of, 355;
Thaxted, 355;
Horham Hall, 355;
Tilty, 355;
Easton Park, 355;
Great Dunmow, 355;
Little Dunmow and the Fitzwalters, 355, 356;
Great Waltham, 356;
Springfield and the "Deserted Village," 356;
Chelmsford, 356, 357;
Boreham House, 357;
New Hall and Beaulieu, 357;
the Ter tributary, 357;
confluence with the Blackwater, 357;
Mersea Island and oyster breeding, 357, 358

Chelmsford, 356, 357

Chester-le-Street, 192, 193

Chesters (ancient Cilurnum), 142

Chipchase, 138, 139

Chollerford, 142;
Roman wall at, 142

Clackmannan, 53, 54

Claverhouse, 40, 41

Cleish Hills, 55

Cockenzie, 68, 69

Coggeshall, 354

Coilantogle Ford, Fight of, 46

Colchester, 358, 359

Coldstream, Historic associations of, 87, 88

Colne, The Essex, 358;
source of, 358;
early course, 358;
Great Yeldham and its oak-tree, 358;
Castle Hedingham, 358;
Halstead, 358;
Gosfield Hall, 358;
Stour Valley Railway Viaduct, 358;
Colchester, 358, 359;
the navigation limit, 359;
Hythe Bridge, 359;
North and East Bridges, 359;
at Wivenhoe Park, 359;
the Roman river tributary, 359;
Brightlingsea Tower, 359

Comyn, Red, Residence of, 134;
death of, 134;
"a lewd enterprise," 182

Congreve, Thomas, at Ham, 246

Coniscliffe, High and Low, 214

Coniston, 295

Constable, John, Home of, 359;
his opinion of Ipswich, 361

Coquet Isle, The monastery on, 127;
coin "smashing," 128

Coquet, The, 113;
"peat-bogs," 113;
as an angling stream, 114;
source in Debateable Land, 114;
Thirlmoor, 114;
Kidland solitude, 114, 115;
Ad Fines Camps, 115;
outer and middle Golden Pot, 115;
the first house, 115;
Dandie Dinmont, 113, 115;
Carl Croft and Philip Burn tributaries, 115, 116;
the Usway stream, 116;
eel-spearing and poaching, 116;
Alwinton, 117;
Harbottle, 117, 118;
Holystone Well and Paulinus, 118;
Simonside, 118;
Rothbury, 118, 119;
Thrum Mill, 118, 120;
bull trout, 119;
mistaken for salmon, 119, 120;
the Armstrongs' seat, 120, 121;
a noble picture gallery, 121;
Brinkworth, 121, 122;
the Priory, 122;
an anglers' haunt, 123;
Felton, 123;
Frank Buckland's joke, 123;
Acklington, 124;
Warkworth, 124-127;
Mr. Pape's fishery, 125;
the hermitage, 126;
literary associations, 126;
the castle, 127;
Amble, 127;
Farnes, 127;
Coquet Island, 127, 128

Corbridge, 153

Coronation Stone, The, 27, 28

Corrichie, Battle of, 14, 15

Cotherstone, 203

Cotton, Charles, 240, 243, 244

Crabbe, Stowmarket and, 361;
association of with Woodbridge, 362;
birthplace of, 362;
visits to Beccles, 365

Cragside, 120

Craigendarroch, 11

Craigmore, Mount, 42

Craig-na-gow-an, 8

Croft, Spa of, 214, 215

Cross Fell, Height of, 143, 144, 197, 198

Crouch, The, Estuary of, 351;
Maplin Sands and the Goodwins, 351;
Foulness Island, 351;
traces of the Danes, 351;
limits of navigation, 351;
the oyster fishery, 351;
source of, 351;
Hull Bridge, 351;
Burnham, 351;
Canewdon and Canute, 352;
Roman, Dane, and Saxon, 352;
Hockley Spa, 352

Culross, 54, 56

Culross Bay, Beauty of, 54, 55

Dalkeith Castle, 68

Darlington, Mansions of, 214

Deadwater Bog, 130

Deben, The, Source of, 362;
the navigation limit, 362;
Felixstowe, 362;
Aldborough and the poet Crabbe, 362;
the Alde tributary, 362, 363;
Southwold and the Blythe tributary, 363;
Halesworth, 363

Dee, The Highland, Source of, 1, 2;
a natural reservoir, 2;
typical scenery, 2;
the Lui and Glen Lui, 2, 3;
Glen Lui Beg, 3;
a mountain legend, 3;
floods of 1829, 3-5;
association of Byron with, 5, 6;
Castleton, 6, 7;
Morven, 6, 14;
last of the Celtic kings, 7;
rebellion of 1715, 7;
Balmoral, 7-10;
Abergeldie, 10;
Burns and the birks, 10, 11;
Ballater, 11;
a
Highland tragedy, 11;
Craigendarroch, 11;
reel of Tullich, 11, 12;
a Catholic legend, 12;
Deeside and the classics, 12, 13;
the Muich and Lynn of Muich, 13;
Loch Muich, 13;
Loch Callater, 13;
Glen Callater, 13;
Breakneck Waterfall, 13;
an admiral's peril, 14;
Aboyne and its castle, 14;
Glentamner, 14;
hilly Birse, 14;
Lunphanan and Macbeth, 14;
as a boundary stream, 14;
Queen Mary and Corrichie, 14, 15;
execution of Sir John Gordon, 15, 16;
through fertile meads, 16

Deepdale Burn, 204

Derby, Situation of, 273;
a subterranean river, 273;
derivation of the name, 273;
historical and legendary, 273, 274;
St. Mary's Bridge, 274, 275;
silk ware at, 275;
All Saints' Church, 275;
"Crown Derby," 275, 276;
the Midland Railway Works, 276

Derwent Chapel, 258, 259

Derwent Dale, Alder trees of, 258

Derwent, The Derbyshire, Comparative neglect of, 257;
romantic scenery of, 257;
source, length, and drainage area of, 257, 258;
derivation of the name, 257, 258;
the infant stream, 258;
Barrowstones, 258;
as a boundary stream, 258;
the Westend and Abbey Brook tributaries, 258;
in Derwent Dale, 258;
at Derwent Chapel, 258;
Derwent Hall, 258, 259;
Win Hill and Lose, 258, 259;
the Ashop and Ashopton, 259;
the Lady Bower tributary, 259;
Castleton caverns, 259;
Mytham Bridge and the Noe tributary, 259;
Dore and Chinley Railway, 259;
Hathersage and "Little John," 259, 260;
Padley Wood, 260;
Burbage Brook, 260;
Longshore Lodge, 260;
Hu Gaer, 260;
the Toad's Mouth, 260;
Stoney Middleton, 260, 261;
Eyam and the Great Plague, 261;
Grindleford Bridge, 261;
Chatsworth, 261-263;
"The Peacock," Rowsley, 263;
the Wye tributary, 263-267;
the river and the Midland Railway, 263, 264;
Haddon Hall, 264, 265;
Tideswell Church, 266;
the highest village in England, 266;
"virgin crants" at Ashford-in-the-Water, 266, 267;
a Piscators' Paradise, 267;
Darley Dale, 267, 268;
a venerable yew, 268;
Oker Hill and its sycamores, 268, 270;
trout and grayling, 270;
at Matlock, 270, 271;
Cromford and the cotton mills, 271;
Sir Richard Arkwright, 271;
Willersley Castle, 271;
incongruous bridge architecture, 271;
Lea Hurst and Florence Nightingale, 271;
Alderwasley Forest, 271;
the Amber and Ambergate, 271;
Belper and the Strutt cotton mills, 271, 272;
Belper Bridge, 272;
Milford, 272;
Duffield, 272;
the Ecclesbourne tributary, 272;
the scene of "Adam Bede," 272;
Allestree Hall, 273;
Darley Abbey, 273;
Markeaton Brook, 273;
Derby, 273-276;
floods, 276;
St. Mary's Bridge, 274, 275;
enterprise and treachery, 275;
pollution of the river, 276;
Elvaston, 277;
the estuary, 277

Derwentwater, Earls of, 149

Devon, Glen, Ochil Mountains, 52

Devon, River, 52

Dichty, River, 40

Dochart, River, 22, 23

Doune Castle, 47;
associations of, 47

Dovercourt, 360

Doveridge Hall, 248

Dove, The Derbyshire, 240;
the two Doves and the two Dove Dales, 240;
Isaac Walton and Charles Cotton, 240, 243;
Dove Head, 241;
Axe Edge, 241;
county boundary, 241;
fishing monogram, 241;
proximity to Buxton, 241;
Glutton Mill, 241, 242;
mountain sentinels, 242;
Sterndale and "The Silent Woman," 242;
Hartington, 242;
Beresford Dale, 242, 243;
an isolated needle, 243;
"Piscatoribus Sacrum," 243;
Beresford Hall, 243, 244;
devotion and dissipation, 244;
Dove Dale, 245;
limestone tors, 245, 246;
Samuel
Johnson and Dr. Taylor, 246;
the Happy Valley of "Rasselas," 246;
Jean Jacques at Wootton Hall, 246;
Mayfield and Thomas Moore, 240, 248;
Thomas Congreve at Ilam, 246;
Canning as a devotee of, 246;
other literary associates, 246;
Thorpe Cloud and Burly Bunster, 246;
Ilam, 246;
another monogram, 246;
Chantrey's masterpiece, 246;
the Manifold tributary, 247;
Ashbourne in '45, 247;
a famous church, 247;
Penelope Boothby, 247;
North Staffordshire Railway, 247;
Norbury, 248;
Rocester, 248;
the Churnet and Tean tributaries, 248;
Doveridge Hall, 248;
Uttoxeter, 248, 249;
Birthplace of Mary Howitt, 249;
Dr. Johnson's penance, 249;
Lord Vernon's domain, 249;
Tutbury Castle and history, 249, 250;
a fasting woman, 250;
a rich find, 250;
junction with the Trent, 250

Drummelzier, 110, 111

Drummond Family, Ancient seat of the, 27

Drummond Hill, Perthshire, 23

Drumoak, Parish of, 14

Dryburgh Abbey, 98, 99

Duchray Water, 42, 43

Dunblane, 48;
the cathedral, 48

Duncan, Locality of burial of, 14

Duncraggan, 46

Dundee, Extent of, 36;
width of the Tay at, 38;
Angus, 38;
Tay bridge, 38;
the city from the Law, 38;
the growth of four centuries, 38, 39;
ancient trade, 38;
early records, 38;
"Bonnie" Dundee, 38, 39;
business and beauty, 39;
razed castles, 39;
St. Mary's Tower, 39;
Broughty Craig Castle and its story, 39;
raid of Montrose, 39;
magnanimity extraordinary, 39;
sack by Monk, 39;
John Graham and "bloody Mackenzie," 39;
Admiral Duncan, 39;
Lochee, 39;
famous men of peace, 40;
the jute industry, 40;
the "Howff," 40;
the old amidst the new, 40;
a glance around, 40

Dunearn, 64

Dunfermline, 58, 59

Dunkeld, Perthshire, 25

Dunmyatt Hills, 51

Durham, Site of, 182;
as a spiritual centre, 183;
attacks of the Scots, 187;
early history of the See, 186;
Bishop-princes, 187;
Wars of the Roses, 188;
the Reformation's effect, 188;
pilgrimage of grace, 188, 189;
during the Commonwealth, 189;
abolition of the See's temporal distinctions, 189;
the cathedral, 186;
the "Galilee Porch," 187;
transformed into a prison, 189;
situation of cathedral, 190;
styles of architecture, 190;
remains of the monastery, 191;
the castle, 191;
the university, 191

Earl's Seat, Mount, 51

Earn, River, Perthshire, 34

East Anglian Rivers, General characteristics of, 350, 351

East Lomond, Mount, 64

Eden, River, 88

Edinburgh, Situation of, 66;
Arthur's Seat, 66, 68;
as guardian of the Firth, 66;
Edinburgh rock and castle, 66;
Mons Meg, 66;
Chapel of Canmore and Margaret, 66;
the Grassmarket, 67;
West Port, 67;
Cowgate, 67;
old Greyfriars' Churchyard, 67;
University buildings, 67;
Morningside, 67;
Newington, 67;
Craiglockhart, 67;
the Braids, 67;
Craigmillar Castle, 67;
the adjacent hills, 67;
the Lawnmarket, 67;
High Street, 67;
the "Crown" of St. Giles, 67;
Parliament House, 67;
Canongate, 67;
Holyrood Palace and Abbey, 67;
Princes Street, 67;
Calton Hill, 67;
New Town, 67;
Corstorphine, 67;
Leith, 67, 68;
view of, as affected by the weather, 67;
Granton breakwater, 67;
Newhaven, 67;
Portobello Esplanade, 68;
seaside watering-places, 68

Ednam, 89

Egliston Abbey, 207

Eildon Hill, 97, 98, 100, 101

Elcho Castle, 35

Eldon, 182

Ellen's Isle, 45, 46

Ely, _see_ "Cam"

Erdswick, Sampson, Memorials of, 227

Erichdie, River, 21

Erskines, Earls of Mar, Ancient seat of, 53

Esk, River, 68, 69

Essex Bridge, 233

Ettrick River, The, 105, 106

Eures of Witton, 178

Eyam, Ravages of the Great Plague at, 261

Falstone, 134

Farne Islands, 75-77

Faskally, 20

Featherstone Castle, 146, 147

Felixstowe, 362

Felton, 123, 124

Fen Country, General characteristics of the, 347, 348;
drainage and reclamation in the Wash district, 348;
fauna and flora of, 348, 349;
diminution of fevers, 349;
an autumn prospect, 349

Fenwick, Sir Ralph, 134, 135

Ferrers, Earl, Property of, 228

Fife Ness, 66

Fingal, Tradition of, 19

Fintry Hills, 43

Fitzhughs, The, 202, 203

Flodden, Battle of, 86, 87

Flodden Hill, 86

Forteviot, Perthshire, 34

Forth Bridge, The new, 54, 59, 60

Forth, The, Historical pre-eminence of, 41;
as an emblem, 41, 42;
source, 42;
"Rob Roy's" country, 42;
Loch Katrine and the Trossachs, 42, 44, 45, 46;
the view from Ben Lomond, 42;
under the glamour of Scott, 42;
the charm of romance, 42;
to the head waters, 42;
Loch Ard and its associations, 42, 43;
the "Clachan of Aberfoyle," 43;
combining waters, 43;
lingering traditions, 43;
in the country of "the Graemes," 43;
Lake Menteith and its memories, 44;
a Queen's retreat, 44;
scenes of "The Lady of the Lake," 44, 45;
the MacGregor fastness, 44;
Scott's influence, 44, 45;
sentinel mountains, 45;
Goblin's Cave, 45;
Ellen's Isle and its story, 45, 46;
to Loch Achray, 46;
the art of Nature, 46;
Clan Alpine rendezvous, 46;
by Coilantogle Ford, 46;
on the Hill of God, 46;
a tryst of waters, 46, 47;
down the Teith to Stirling, 47;
Falls of Bracklinn, 47;
Cambusmere, 47;
Doune Castle, 47;
"Heading" Hill, Stirling, 47, 50;
Stirling Castle, 47, 48;
the river at Stirling, 47;
Flanders Moss, 47;
tide and navigation limits, 47;
the "links o' Forth," 47;
goodly sites and historic memories, 47;
the banks of Allan Water, 48;
Dunblane and the cathedral, 48;
a Roman camp, 48;
Stirling Rock and its record, 48;
baptism of Prince Henry, 48;
palace of James V., 48;
Parliament House, Stirling, 48;
murder by a king, 50;
where noble heads have fallen, 50;
Stirling battlefields, 50;
in memory of Wallace, 50;
Bannockburn, 50, 51;
on the lower river, 51;
through fat meadows, 51;
the valley boundaries, 51;
beautiful Ochils, 51, 52;
river and Glen Devon, 52;
Tullibody and Alloa Inches, 53;
North British Railway Bridge, 53;
Alloa, 53, 54;
from river to estuary, 53;
Clackmannan, 53;
Kincardine, 54;
Scotch "Auburns," 54;
Tulliallan Castle, 54;
in the "Bruce Country," 54;
Forth Bridge, 54;
broadening to the sea, 54;
Grangemouth and Bo'ness, 54;
Carron Iron Works, 54;
Linlithgow, 54;
the wall of Antonine, 54;
Culross and Culross Bay, 54-56;
sanctified memories, 55;
Culross monastery, 55;
departed industries, 55, 56;
"Cu'ross girdles," 55, 56;
from anvil to coronet, 56;
"Standard Stone," 56;
Castle Hill and its tradition, 56;
traces of strife, 56, 57;
a "peculiar
people," 57;
upstart villages, 57;
Rosyth Castle, 57;
Inch Garvie Island and its memories, 57;
"St. Margaret's Hope," 57, 58;
Dunfermline Castle, Tower and Palace, 58;
New Abbey Church, 58, 59;
tomb of Robert the Bruce, 58, 59;
graves of kings, 58, 59;
Oratory Cave, 59;
buildings and industries of Dunfermline, 59;
a look over twelve shires, 59;
new Forth Bridge, 59, 60;
Inch Garvie Castle, 60;
Blackness Castle, 61;
Abercorn Woods, 61;
Hopetown House, 61;
South Queensferry, 61;
Castle of Barnbougle, 61;
Dalmeny, 61, 62;
Inverkeithing, 62;
Dombristle House and its story, 62;
Aberdour and the Douglases, 62;
Inchcolm Island, 62, 63;
Cramond Island, 63;
Inchkeith, 63;
May Island, 63;
Bass Rock, 63, 64, 70, 71;
Dunearn, 64;
Rossend Castle, 64;
Grange, 65;
Kirkcaldy, 65;
Largo, 66;
Dreel Castle, 66;
essence of Scotland, 66;
Edinburgh, 66-70;
Pinkie and Prestonpans, 68, 69;
Cockenzie, 69;
Seton, 69;
Aberlady, 70;
a golf coast, 70;
the golfers' Mecca, 70;
North Berwick and The Law, 70;
Tantallon Castle and the Douglases, 70, 71;
under the spell of Scott, 71

Fotheringay, 339

Foulness Island, 351

Gainford, 213, 214

Gainsborough, Birthplace of, 359;
residence at Ipswich, 361

Gainsborough, Situation of, &c., 289, 290

Galashiels, 98

Garchary Burn, 1, 2

Garrigill, Cumberland, 144

Garry, River, 20, 22

Garth, Samuel, Birthplace of, 214

Gask, 34

Gateshead, 159, 160

Gildersdale Burn, 145, 146

Glenalmond, 18

Glendeary, 104

Glen Dochart, Legend of, 23

Glen Lochay, 23

Glen Lui, 2, 3

Glen Lui Beg, 3

Glen Lyon, Perthshire, 23

Goole, 318

Gordon, Sir John, 15, 16

Graham of Claverhouse, 22

Grange, 65

Grangemouth, 54

Grantham, 327

Grassington, 295

Great Dunmow, 355

Great Grimsby, Situation of, 323-325

Great Waltham, 356

Greta Bridge and "Nicholas Nickleby," 208, 209

Guthlac, Saint, Floating of, 252;
a specific for headaches, 254

Hadrian's Bridge, 158, 159

Halstead, 358

Haltwhistle, 147;
Burn of, 148

Harbottle, Castle of, 117

Harrowbys, Seat of the, 227

Hartington, 242

Harvey, William, Monument to, 353

Harwich, 360

Haughton Castle, 139, 140

Hawick, 93

Haydon Bridge, 149

Heaven's Field, Battle of, 142

Hemingborough, 318

Heron, Sir George, 139;
grim joking, 139

Heron, Sir Hugh, 82, 83, 86

Hesleyside, 135

Hexham, 150-152

Higham Ferrers, 338

High Force, Danger of, 198-200

Holystone, The famous baptistry of, 118

Howden, 318

Hull, Importance of as a port, 322;
growth of, 322;
history of the name, 322;
Holy
Trinity Church, 322, 323;
St. Mary's Church, 323;
the dock office, 323;
Trinity House, 323;
the town hall and its statues, 323;
domestic architecture, 323;
the Prince of Orange statue, 323;
the Wilberforce statue, 323

Humber, The, Estuary of, 320;
drainage area of compared with the Severn, 320, 321;
connection with other great waterways, 321;
as a name in history, 321;
width and length of, 321;
memories of the past, 321;
South Ferriby, 321, 322;
Hessle and its flint deposits, 322;
Barton, 322;
Hull, 322, 323;
Ravenser and its fate, 322;
Paull, 323;
Sunk Island, 323;
Spurn Point lighthouses, 323;
Great Grimsby, 323, 325;
the North Sea trade, 325;
emigration from, 325

Huntingdon, 342

Huntly, Earl of, 14-16

Hyltons, The, 194;
the "Cauld Lad," 194

Ilam, 246, 247

Ilkley, Situation of, 304, 305

Inchcolm Island, Firth of Forth, 62, 63

Inch Garvie Island, 57, 58

Inchkeith Island, Firth of Forth, 63

Inchmahone Island, 44

Ingestre, The Shrewsburys and, 229-231

Innerleithen, 107

Innerpeffray, Perthshire, 35

Inverkeithing, 62

Inversnaid, 42

Invertuthil, Perthshire, 26

Ipswich, Situation of, 361;
Gainsborough and, 361;
opinion of Constable of, 361;
antiquity of, 361, 362;
Rochester's description of, 362;
a muddy foreshore, 362;
prosperity of, 362;
industries of, 362;
docks and wharves, 362;
the public buildings, 362;
the grammar school, 362;
merchants' villas, 362;
ancient architecture, 362;
a beautiful outlook, 362

Isla, River, 18

Jarrow-on-Tyne, Shipyards of, 164

Jedburgh, 95

Kedington, Archbishop Tillotson and, 359

Keilder Castle, 131

Keilder Moors, 131, 132

Kelso, 90-92

Keltie, Glen of, 47

Kenmore, Perthshire, 23

Kettlewell, 294, 295

Killiecrankie, Pass of, 21, 22

Killin, Perthshire, Beauty of, 23

Kilnsey, Limestone crag of, 295

Kincardine, 54

Kinderscout, Mount, 259

Kinfauns, 35

King's Lynn, 349

Kinnairds, Homes of the, 35

Kinnoull Hill, Perthshire, 33, 34

Kinnoull, Lord, Family seat of, 34

Kirkby Wharfe, 308

Kirkcaldy, 65

Kirkham, Early English remains at, 318

Knaresborough, 314

Knaresdale Hall, 146

Knar, River, 146

Knox, John, Preaching of in Perth, 31

Ladykirk, Legend of, 84

Laggan Mountains, 18

Lake Lothing, _see_ "Broads"

Lambton Castle, 194

Landseer, Residence of at Maldon, 355

Largo, 66

Larig, The, 1, 2

Leith, 67

Leny, River, Source of, 46, 47

Lichfields, Seat of the, 232

Lincoln, Situation of, 328;
Roman occupation of, 328;
Roman remains, 328;
advent of Christianity at, 328, 330;
St. Paul's Church, 328, 330;
the invading Dane, 330;
in the time of the Conqueror,
330;
"Saxon" or "Norman" architecture, 330;
the cathedral, 328, 330, 331;
the Jews' House, 322;
John o' Gaunt's stables, 322;
"Pointed" architecture, 332;
general beauty of, 332

Linlithgow, 54

Linn of Dee, The, 3-5

Linn of Muich, 13

Linton, 296

Little Dunmow, 355, 356

"Little John," Grave of, 260, 261

Loch Ard, 42, 43

Loch Chon, 42

Loch Clunie, Perthshire, 26

Loch Dochart, 23

Loch Earn, 35

Loch Ericht, 18

Loch Katrine, 42;
from Aberfoyle to, 44;
as a tourist resort, 44;
mountain sentinels of, 45;
Ellen's Isle, 45, 46;
stabbed by a woman, 46;
"Silver Strand," 46

Loch Lomond, Situation of, 42

Loch Lydoch, 18

Lochnagar, Mention of by Byron, 5

Loch Tummel, 20

Lomonds, The, 34

Lubnaig, Loch, 47

Lui, River, 2

Lumleys, Seat of the, 194

Lunan, River, Perthshire, 26, 27

Lune, River, Fishing in, 201, 202

Lunphanan, 14

Lyon, River, Perthshire, 23

Macbeth, Locality of death of, 14

Machany, River, Perthshire, 35

Maiden Way, The, 146

Maldon, 355

Malton (Roman Derventio), Gilbertine Priory at, 318

Manifold River, The, 247

Mansfield, Seat of Earls of, 27

Market Harborough, 340

Marston Moor, 347

Martin, John, 149

Matlock, The Derwent at, 270, 271

Mavesyn Ridware, 235

May Island, Firth of Forth, 63

Meikleour, Perthshire, 26, 27

Melrose Abbey, Estimate of by Dorothy Wordsworth, 100-103

Melrose, Battle of, 103

Melrose, Features of, 98

Menteith, Lake, 43, 44

Menzies, Family seat of the, 24

Merrington, 181, 182

Middlesbrough, 218

Milford, Cotton mills of, 272

Milton, John, Association of with Stowmarket, 361

Moncrieffe Hill, Perthshire, 33, 34

Montague, Mrs., 155

Moore, Thomas, Life of at Mayfield, 246

Morven, 6, 14

Muich, Loch, 13

Muich, The, 13

Murray, Earl of, 14, 15

Myton, 312, 313

Naseby, Battle of, 334;
Market Harborough and, 340

Needwood Forest, 236, 238

Nent River, The, 145

Nen, The, Source of, 334;
early course, 334;
Northampton, 334-336;
typical Midland scenery, 336;
Earls Barton Church, 336;
a plenitude of churches, 336, 337;
Castle Ashby, 337;
a costly election, 337, 338;
Yardley Chase, 338;
Wellingborough, 338;
Higham Ferrers, 338;
Thrapston, 338;
a pretty view, 338;
Thorpe, 338;
the river divided, 338;
Lilford Mansion, 338;
Barnwell Castle, 338;
Oundle, 338;
Cotterstock, 339;
Tansor, 339;
Fotheringay Castle, 339;
Castor and its remains, 339;
Peterborough and its cathedral, 339, 340;
Wisbeach, 349;
the navigation limit, 349

Nevilles, The, Badge of, 180, 181;
Neville's Cross, 181;
association of with Barnard Castle, 206

Newark, 286-288

Newburn, 155, 156

Newcastle, Historic associations of, 162;
Norman Keep, 162;
the Moot Hall, 162;
Pons Ælii, 162;
St. Nicholas, 162;
Quayside, 162;
trade of the river, 162, 163;
the reign of cloud, 162, 163;
Sandgate and its press-gangs, 163;
the Roman Segendunum, 164;
Wallsend coal, 164;
Jarrow, the Saxon Gyrwy, 164;
Jarrow shipyards, 164;
the first screw collier, 164;
Venerable Bede, 164, 165;
the old monastery, 165;
Danish marauders, 166;
Jarrow "Slake," 165, 166;
the docks, 166;
a grand transformation, 166

Newhaven, 67

Newton Kyme, 306

Nightingale, Florence, Derbyshire home of, 271

Norham, 80-84

Northampton, 334;
ancient and modern characteristics, 334, 335;
early history of, 335;
St. Peter's Church, 336;
St. Sepulchre's, 336;
the Queen's Cross, 336

North Berwick, 70, 71

Northumberland, Hugh, 131

Norwich, 369

Nottingham, Situation of, 280, 281;
beauty _versus_ utility, 281, 282;
episodes in the history of, 282, 283;
royal residents and prisoners, 283;
the Castle and its history, 283, 284;
Trent Bridge, 284;
in time of flood, 284;
St. Mary's Church, 284;
the market-place, 284, 285;
University College, 285;
excavated dwellings, 285, 286;
ancient and modern industries, 286

Ochil Hills, 34, 51, 52

Orwell, The, Source of, 360;
constituent streams of, 361;
Stowmarket, 361;
Needham Market, 361;
Barham and the entomologist Kirby, 361;
the navigation limit, 361;
a lock to a mile, 361;
Ipswich, 361, 362

Otley, 306

Oundle, 338

Ouse, The Buckinghamshire, Source of, 342;
early course of, 342;
Banbury, 342;
Olney and Cowper, 342;
scenery of, 342;
Bedford, 342;
Elstow and John Bunyan, 342;
Sandy and St. Neots, 342;
Huntingdon, 342;
lost in the Fens, 342;
King's Lynn, 329

Ouse, The Yorkshire, Peculiarities of, 310;
tributaries of, 310;
drainage area of, 310, 320;
as a waterway, 310, 311;
commencement of, 311;
course, 311;
the Ure tributary, 311, 312 [see also "Ure"];
the Swale tributary, 312 [see also "Swale"];
Myton and its battle, 312, 313;
Nun Monkton, Overton, and Skelton, and their churches, 313, 314;
the Nidd tributary, 314;
Nidderdale, 314;
Brimham Rocks, 314;
Knaresborough, 314;
Beningborough, 314;
Red Hall and the Slingsbys, 314;
York, 314, 315;
the Foss tributary, 315;
Sheriff Hutton Castle, 315;
Fulford and its battle, 315;
Bishopthorpe, 315;
Naburn and its lock, 315;
Escrick Park, 315;
Skipwith Common, 315;
Riccall and Harold Hardrada, 315;
junction of the Wharfe with, 315;
Cawood and Wolsey, 315;
Selby, 315-318;
Selby Abbey, 315, 317;
Hemingborough, 318;
junction with the Derwent, 318;
Malton and its Priory, 318;
Kirkham, 318;
Castle Howard, 318;
Rievaulx ruins, 318;
Pickering Castle, 318;
Kirkdale Cave, 318;
the Aire tributary [see also "Aire"], 318;
Howden, 318;
Goole, 318;
the Don tributary, 318;
junction with the Trent, 318

Ovingham, 155;
St. Wilfrid's Church, 155

Ovington, 212, 213

Pagets, Property of the, 235

Paulinus, Bishop, 118

Peak, The, Highest point of, 259

Peebles, 107-109

Peel Fell, Description of, 130

Perth, Original site of, 30-33

Perthshire, Historic associations of, 18

Peterborough, 339, 340

Philiphaugh, 22, 106

Pierce Bridge and Leeming Lane, 203, 214

Pike Pool, 243

Pinkie, Battle of, 69, 92

Pitlochrie, 22

Porte, Sir John, school, of, &c., 254

Portobello, 68

Pow, River, Perthshire, 35

Preston Island, 54

Prestonpans, 68, 69

Procolitia, 141;
Roman relics at, 141, 142

Prudhoe, 117, 118, 155

Pudsey's Priory, 192

Pynkinscleugh, 147

Queensferry, 54

Rannoch, Moor of, 18, 20

Ravenser, Gradual destruction of, 322

Reed, River, 137, 138

Repton, 251-255

Riccall, 315

Ridley, Bishop, 147;
a fighting stock, 147

Rizzio, Murder of, 31

Robert the Bruce, 58, 59

Rokebys, The, 210

Romaldkirk, 202

Rosebery, Ancestors of Earl of, 56

Rothbury, 118-120

Rousseau and David Hume, 246

Rugeley, 235

Ruthvens, The, 29, 30

Saffron-Walden, 352, 353

St. Cuthbert, Residence of by the Leader River, 99;
the Saint and the Abbess of Whitby, 127;
last resting-place of, 182;
immortal influence, 182;
the wandering of the saint, 183;
an incorruptible body, 184, 185;
thaumaturgical virtues, 184;
pilgrimages to the shrine, 186

St. Ninian's, Stirling, 51

Saline Hills, 55

Schiehallion, Mount, 20, 23

Scone, Perthshire, 27-29

Scott, Sir Michael, 97, 102, 103

Selby, Advantageous situation of, 315-318

Seton, 69, 70

Sewingshields, Castle of, 149

Shaftos, The, Seat of, 181

Sheriffmuir, 48

Shields, Harbour of, 167;
rise of South Shields, 107, 168;
ballast heaps, 168;
North Shields and its stairs, 168;
intensely maritime, 168;
the "Low Lights" and "High Lights," 169;
the first lifeboat and volunteer life brigade, 170;
south pier, 171

Soar, The, 277, 278

South Ferriby, Curious church at, 321, 322

South Queensferry, 61

Southwold, 363

Spalding, 349

Spittal, 75

Stamford, 342

Stanhope, The Bishops and, 176

Stephenson, George, Birthplace of, 155

Sterndale, A satirical signboard at, 242

Stirling, Situation of, 47;
"Heading Hill," 47, 50;
the castle and its record, 47, 48, 50;
the bridge, 47;
Stirling Rock, 48;
palace of James V., 48;
Parliament House, 48;
memories of Knox, 50;
King's Garden and King's Park, 50;
West Church, 50;
grave of James III., 50;
adjacent battlefields, 50;
a Wallace memorial, 50;
Abbey Craig, 50;
the bridges and their stories, 50;
Bannockburn, 50, 51;
the "Bore Stone," 51;
"Gillies Hill," 51

Stirling Castle, 47;
commanding site of, 47;
a geological retrospect, 47;
its place in history, 48;
the "Upper Square," 48;
a prince's baptism, 48;
a royal murderer, 50;
"Heading Hill" and its record, 47, 50;
pulpit of Knox, 50;
the King's Garden and Park, 50;
Queen Mary's Lookout, 50

Stockton, 217, 218

Stoke-upon-Trent, 225, 226

Stone, 226, 227

Stour, The, 359, 360

Stowmarket, 361

Strathearn, Perthshire, View of from Moncrieffe Hill, 34, 35;
grave of the "heir of Scotland," 34;
"Cross Macduff," 34;
Forth Bridge Railway, 34;
"Wilks of Baiglie," 34;
Dupplin Castle, 34;
Gask and the Oliphants, 34;
Tullibardine, 35;
a glorious district, 35

Strathfillan, 22; the home of a saint, 23

Strathmore, Perthshire, 27

Sudbury, Gainsborough and, 359

Sunderland, 195

Surtees, Home of, 182

Sutherland, Seat of the Dukes of, 226

Swale, 312

Swarkestone Bridge, 255, 256

Swyneburn, Sir William de, 139, 140

Tadcaster, 307

Talbots, Home of the, 229-231

Tarset Castle, 134, 135

Tay, The, Comparison of with the Tiber, 17, 18;
the camp of Agricola, 18;
dawn of history, 18;
crowding associations, 18;
its sources, 18, 22;
its basin, 18;
vanished woods, 19, 20;
a new forest, 19;
the "Planting Duke," 19;
"Parent Larches," 19, 20;
the Tummel, 20;
Loch Tummel, 20;
the Garry, 20, 21;
feeding streams, 21;
Blair and its castle, 20, 21;
a memorable campaign, 22;
from the hill of Tulloch, 22;
a Jacobite shrine, 22;
a tourist haunt, 22;
Pitlochrie, the "gateway of the Highlands," 22;
the infant river and its names, 22;
a sainted memory, 23;
Fingal's grave, 23;
a painters' paradise, 23;
a salmon stretch, 23;
an ancient priory, 23;
lovely Kenmore, 23;
Taymouth Castle, 23;
the Breadalbane estates, 23;
on the Lyon tributary, 23;
the "Wolf of Badenoch," 23, 25;
Glen Lyon House, 23;
Garth Castle, 23;
the oldest tree in Europe, 23;
the "Rock of Weem," 24;
Castle Menzies, 24;
Abbey of Dull, 24;
Bridge of Tay and the "Black Watch," 24;
"birks" of Aberfeldy, 10, 24;
Grandtully Castle, 24;
a combination of attractions, 24;
Dunkeld and Birnam, 25;
Gavin Douglas, 25;
Murthly estate, 26;
Neil Gow, 26;
the spirits of Birnham Hill, 26;
homes of poets, 26;
Caroline Oliphant, 26;
Kinclaven Castle, 26;
Invertuthil, 26;
a Viking tradition, 26;
an arboricultural marvel, 26;
Loch of Clunie, 26;
the Lunan and its legends, 26, 27;
in the heart of Strathmore, 27;
from "The Fair Maid of Perth," 27;
Macbeth's Castle, 27;
battle of Lancarty, 27;
at Scone, 27;
the "Macalpine Laws," 27;
the "Stone of Destiny," 27, 28;
Scone monastery, 28, 29;
the Ruthven family, 29, 30;
Huntingtower Castle, 30;
deeds of the Ruthvens, 30;
revenge of King James, 30;
the "Gowrie Conspiracy," 30;
the Reformation at Perth, 30, 31;
murder of the "poet-king," 31;
St. John's, Perth, 31;
a sermon by Knox, 31;
a schismatic district, 31;
martyrdom in Perth, 31;
royal visits to Perth, 32;
mementoes of Cromwell, 32;
a "spate" on the river, 32, 33;
benefactor and ornament, 33;
'twixt wooded heights, 33;
the Carse of Gowrie, 33, 36;
rival prospects, 33, 34;
Strathearn, 34, 35;
the lower course from Kinnoull Hill, 35;
Kinfauns, 35;
Elcho Castle and Nunnery, 35;
"Braes o' the Carse," 35;
St. Madoe's Church, 35;
Hay heritages, 35;
Wallace's schoolplace, 35;
home of the "Lass o' Gowrie," 35;
homes of the Kinnairds, 35;
Church of Invergowrie, 36;
the widest part of Tay Firth, 36;
Balmerino Abbey, 36;
on the last reaches, 36;
Dundee Law, 36-39;
at Dundee, 36-38;
mouth of the river, 38;
the new Tay Bridge, 38;
the 1879 catastrophe, 38;
Dundee from the Law, 38;
history and progress of Dundee, 38, 39;
the hero of the "Talisman," 39;
defacing blows, 39;
the renowned of peace and war, 39, 40;
the view around Dundee, 40;
drainage area compared with the Tweed, 74

Tees, Source of the, 197;
Cross Fell, 197, 198;
Caldron Snout, 197-199;
a local fallacy exposed, 197;
ignorance of the natives, 197, 198;
High Force, 198-200;
the Weel, 199;
Middleton-in-Teesdale, 200, 201;
Cotherstone and cheese, 201, 203;
tributary Lune, 201, 202;
famous fishing, 202;
"Rum auld Kirk," 202;
the Fitzhughs, 202, 203;
Roman camps and British defences, 203;
the Balder stream, 203;
the Bowes Museum, 203;
Deepdale Burn, 204;
Barnard Castle, 204-207;
Thor's Gill, 207;
Egliston Abbey and the White Canons, 207;
Rokeby, 208;
Greta Bridge, 208;
"Dotheboys Hall" located, 208, 209;
"Nicholas Nickleby" characters, 209, 210;
Scott's description, 210;
the Rokebys' mansion, 210;
the "Dobie of Mortham," 210;
breaks in the river bed, 211;
Wycliffe and the great Reformer, 211, 212;
Ovington and "The Four Cells," 212, 213;
Gainford Springs, 213;
an ancient earthwork, 214;
Samuel Garth, 214;
Pierce Bridge, 214;
Coniscliffe waterworks, 214;
Darlington villas, 214;
Croft Spa, 214, 215;
a noticeable bridge, 215;
Bishop Burnet's birthplace, 215;
a worm-dragon, 215;
Yarm, and net-fishing for salmon, 215;
tide limit, 215;
a change for the worse, 216;
Stockton, 216-218;
Middlesbrough and progress, 218;
the docks, 218;
a broad estuary, 218

Teith, River, Source of, 44;
its component streams, 47;
Glen of Keltie, 47;
Falls of Bracklinn, 47;
Doune Castle, 47;
meeting with the Forth, 47;
Stirling Castle, 47

Teviot, River, The, 93;
Branxholm Hall and the Buccleuchs, 93;
Hawick and Sir Alexander Ramsay, 93, 94;
Denholm and Leyden, 94;
the revenge of Ancrum Moor, 94;
the Waterloo monument, 94;
Carlenrig and Johnnie Armstrang, 95;
the Ale and Jed tributaries, 95;
Jedburgh and its reputations, 95

Thaxted, 355

Thorpe, 338

Thor's Gill, 207

Thrapston, 338;
grain market of, 338

Threshfield, 295, 296

Tideswell, 266

Tillotson, Archbishop, Birthplace of, 359

Till, River, 85;
as described by Scott, 85;
St. Cuthbert's Chapel, 85, 86;
St. Cuthbert's coffin, 85, 86;
"Tillmouth Cell," 86;
Friar John, 86;
Twisell Castle, 86;
Twisell Bridge and Flodden, 86, 87;
Ford Castle and William Heron, 86, 87

Tilt, River, 21

Trent, Course of the, 221, 222;
derivation of the name, 222;
fish of, 222, 226;
relation of to railway, 223;
birthplace of, 223;
"Stanleghe," 223;
the potteries, 223;
Burslem and its earthenware, 223-225;
Wedgwood, 225;
Etruria, 225;
Stoke-upon-Trent, 225, 226;
Trentham Hall, 226;
Stone, 226, 227;
legend and history, 226, 227;
Sandon, 227;
the Harrowbys' estate, 227;
Erdswick the historian, 227;
Shirleywich brine, 227;
Chartley Castle, 227, 228;
Mary Queen of Scots, 228;
a tragic tale, 228;
wild cattle, 228, 229;
Ingestre Hall, 229-231;
church history, 230;
the Talbot family, 230, 231;
disputed claims, 230, 231;
the Sow and Penk tributaries, 231;
Tixall, 231, 232;
Shugborough Park, 231, 233;
home of the Earls of Lichfield, 232;
Admiral George Anson, 232;
Essex Bridge, 233;
not yet a "Black Country," 233, 234;
Cannock Chase and the N.R.A., 234;
an attractive district, 234;
Colwich, 235;
Oakeridge Park and the widow, 235;
Wolseley Bridge and Hall, 235;
malodorous Rugeley, 235;
the Pagets' property, 235;
a dashing officer, 235;
Armitage, 235;
Mavesyn Ridware, 235;
Lichfield, 236;
the Blyth tributary, 236;
a pretty district, 236;
Needwood Forest, 236, 238;
Alrewas registers, 236;
the metropolis of beer, 238;
the history of Burton ale, 238, 239;
liberal citizens, 239;
Burton bridges, 239;
a lady doctor, 239;
Newton Hall, 239;
junction of the Trent and Dove, 239;
Newton Solney, 251;
Repton, 251-255;
the mausoleum of the Kings of Mercia, 252, 253;
Danes in possession, 252;
the Black Canons' priory, 253, 254;
Sir John Porte's school, 254;
the church, 254, 255;
the Erewash stream, 255;
Swarkestone Bridge, 255, 256;
geological interest, 256;
Stanton-by-Dale, 256;
Weston-on-Trent, 256;
Castle Donington, 256;
Cavendish Bridge, 256;
the valley at Trent junction, 278;
the Erewash, 278;
Attenborough and Henry Ireton, 278;
the wise men of Gotham, 278, 279;
approaching Nottingham, 279;
Clifton Hall and its tragedy, 279;
Clifton Grove and Henry Kirke White, 280;
Nottingham, 280-286;
Trent Bridge, 284;
Colwick Hall and Mary Chaworth, 286;
Sherwood Forest, 286;
the "Dukeries," 286;
East Stoke and its battle, 286;
Newark, 286-288;
from Newark to Gainsborough, 288, 289;
as a boundary stream, 289;
at Gainsborough, 289, 290;
the tide limit, 289;
the "bore," 289;
Gainsborough Bridge, 289;
in Lincolnshire, 290;
Axholme Island, 290, 291;
land reclamation, 291;
confluence with the Humber, 291;
Alkborough and the Romans, 291

Trentham Hall, 226;
an ancient settlement, 226;
its noble owners, 226

Trent Junction, 278;
the College, 278

Trossachs, The, 42-47

Tulliallan Castle, 54

Tullibody, 52, 53

Tullich, 11, 12

Tummel, River, 20-22

Tutbury Castle, 249, 250

Tweedmouth, 75

Tweed, The, Homely characteristics of, 72;
natural charms, 72, 74;
associations, 73;
in Debateable Laud, 73;
character of its course, 73, 74;
tide limit, 74;
drainage area, 74;
the stream at Berwick, 74, 75;
old Berwick Bridge, 75;
Royal Border Bridge, 75;
Berwick town, 75-79;
Longridge, 79;
the Adder tributaries, 79;
Union Suspension Bridge, 79;
Norham and its castle, 80-84;
Ladykirk and its legend, 84;
a pretty stretch, 84, 85;
the Till and Glen tributaries, 85, 86;
Twisell Castle, 86;
Ford Castle, 86, 87;
Flodden Hill, 86;
battle of Flodden, 86, 87;
Coldstream, 87;
Smeaton's bridge, 87;
an historic ford, 88;
Wark Castle, 88;
the Order of the Garter, 88;
a broadening valley, 88;
in Roxburgh, 88;
the Eden tributary, 88;
Hadden Rig and its fight, 89;
Rennie's Bridge, 90;
the river at Kelso, 90;
Springwood Park, 90;
Kelso Abbey, 90-92;
Floors Castle, 90, 93;
Roxburghe Castle, 92, 93;
an annihilated town, 93;
the Teviot and its associations, 93-95;
in a broadening valley, 95;
Mertoun House and "Marmion," 95, 96;
Smailholm and Scott, 96;
Littledean Tower, 96;
the village cross, 96, 97;
Eildon Hill and its legend, 97;
Sir Michael Scott, 97;
a lovely prospect, 97, 98;
Dryburgh Abbey, 98;
Earl Buchan's monuments, 99;
the Leader tributary, 99;
St. Cuthbert and Thomas the Rhymer, 99, 100;
Melrose Abbey, 100, 103;
the Melrose-Gattonside Suspension Bridge,
103;
Skirmish Hill and the battle of Melrose, 103;
a drawbridge with a history, 103, 104;
the monks of St. Mary's, 104;
Alwyn and Gala tributaries, 104;
Glendearg and the lady of Avenel, 104;
Abbotsford, 104, 105;
the Ettrick and its memories, 105, 106;
the Yarrow, 100;
Philiphaugh, 106;
Clovenfords, 106;
Cadon Water, 106;
Ashestiel, 106;
"peels," 106, 107;
a prosaic reach, 107;
Innerleithen and St. Ronan's Well, 107;
Traquair and Traquair House, 107;
Horsburgh Castle, 107;
Peebles, 107-109;
Neidpath Castle, 107-110;
Eddlestone Water, 107;
"fall" of the river, 109;
the climax of beauty, 109, 110;
a vandal duke, 109, 110;
a marquis's tribute, 110;
Manor Water, 110;
grave of the "Black Dwarf," 110;
Stobo Bridge, 110;
Drummelzier and its castle, 110, 111;
a queer story, 111;
Merlin the Wild, 111;
by the Edinburgh road, 111;
Stanhope Bridge, 111, 112;
the Crook Inn, 112;
at the fountain heads, 112

Tyndrum, Bruce's defeat near, 22

Tynemouth, 170, 171

Tyne, The, Sources of, 129, 130;
South Tyne, 129, 130;
North Tyne, 130;
Peel Fell, 130;
the border railway, 130;
Debateable Land, 130;
Deadwater Bog, 130;
Source of the North Tyne, 130;
Keilder Burn, 131;
Keilder Castle, 131;
Keilder Moors, 131;
good sport, 131;
ancient camps, 132;
Lewis Burn, 132;
in rich pastures, 132, 133;
Border Peel, 133;
Border feud and foray, 133;
Falstone, 134;
Greystead Bridge, 134;
Dally Castle, 134;
Tarset Castle, 134;
death of Red Comyn, 134;
love and death, 134;
Barty of the Comb and Corbit Jack, 134, 135;
"Donnybrook," 135;
Charltons and Sir Ralph Fenwick, 135;
Hesleyside, 135;
old stories, 135;
Bellingham, 135, 136;
Hareshaw Lynn cascades, 135, 136;
Bellingham Church, 136;
St. Cuthbert, 130;
the Reed tributary, 136;
salmon fishing, 138;
Walk, 138;
Chipchase Castle, 138;
the Heron family, 139;
Haughton Castle and the Swinburnes, 139, 140;
Chollerford, 141;
the Roman wall, 141;
Procolitia and its Roman relics, 141, 142;
Cilurnum, 142;
Heaven's Field, 142;
meeting of the North and South Tyne, 142;
in Cumberland, 143;
Cross Fell and its rivers, 143, 144;
"helm wind," 144;
Garrigill, 144;
Alston, 144, 145;
St. Augustine, 145;
junction of Trent and South Tyne, 145;
in Northumberland, 145;
Whitley Castle, 146;
Gildersdale Burn, 146;
Maiden Way, 146;
the Knar, 146;
Knaresdale Hall, 146;
Featherstone Castle, 146, 147;
birthplace of Ridley, 147;
Willimontswick, 147;
Unthank Hall, 147;
Haltwhistle town and Burn, 147, 148;
view from Bardon Mill, 148;
Allen tributary, 148, 149;
Langley and the Derwentwaters, 149;
Haydon Bridge, 149;
an artist's birthplace, 149;
Arthurian legends, 149;
Warden, 150;
the "heart of all England," 150-152;
Devil's Water, 152;
a sylvan scene, 152;
Corbridge, 152-154;
a Roman station, 153;
Bywell Castle, 154;
Cherryburn House, 155;
Ovingham, 155;
Prudhoe Castle, 155;
Wylam and George Stephenson, 155;
Denton Hall, 155;
battle of Newburn, 156;
a jurisdiction
limit, 156;
arsenal of the Tyne, 156;
Heaven and Hell, 106;
trade of the river,157;
a libel refuted, 158;
Hadrian's Bridge, 158;
the "Tyneside London Bridge," 158;
the swing bridge, 159;
High Level Bridge, 159;
Gateshead, 159, 160;
Newcastle Quay, 160, 162;
sublime darkness, 162, 163;
Sandgate, 163;
the Roman Segendunum, 164;
Wallsend coal, 164;
Jarrow shipyards, 164;
Jarrow Church and monastery, 164;
Venerable Bede, 165;
Don tributary, 164, 165;
dock accommodation, 166;
engineering extraordinary, 166, 167;
South Shields, 168;
built upon ballast, 168;
North Shields, 168;
a salt sea savour, 168;
lighthouses, 169;
Shields fishing industry, 170;
Tynemouth promontory, 170;
a colossal statue, 170;
Tynemouth Priory, 170, 171;
two great piers, 171;
immunity from wrecks, 171;
Coquet Island lighthouse, 172

Uam-Var, 46;
an historic hunt, 46

Ure, The, 311, 312

Urlar Burn, Perthshire, 24

Ushaw College, 191

Uttoxeter, 248, 249

Vennachar, Loch, 46;
Clan Alpine and the "Fiery Cross," 46

Vernon, Lord, Seat of, 249

Wallace, William, 19

Walton, Izaak, Charles Cotton and, 240, 213

Wardenlaw, 182

Wark, Antiquity of, 138;
Scottish Courts of, 138

Warkworth, 124-127

Waveney, The, Early course of, 363;
confluence with the Yare, 363;
termination, 363, 365;
drainage area of, 363;
Agnes Strickland and, 364;
source of, 364;
Diss, 364;
the Dove tributary, 364;
on the Broads border, 365;
Bungay, 364, 365;
Mettingham Parish, 365;
Barham and Sir John Suckling, 365;
Nelson's mother's birthplace, 365;
Beccles, 365;
Breydon Water, 365;
the New Cut, 365;
a typical broad, 365

Wear, The, A twelfth century description of, 173;
ancient and modern iconoclasts, 173;
the march of industry, 173, 174;
venerable associations of, 174;
beauties of the river, 174;
primitive nature, 174, 175;
dalesmen and miners, 175, 176;
tributaries, 176;
Stanhope Park, 176;
provision for the Bishops of Durham, 176, 177;
sport, pleasurable and serious, 177, 178;
an old township, 178;
from moorland stream to lowland river, 178;
Walsingham, 178;
Lang Man's Grave, 178;
Hamsterley, 178; Witton Castle, 178;
the Linburn and the Wear, 178;
Bishop Auckland Castle, 179;
"ravinous sacrilege," 179;
princely hospitality, 179;
Binchester and Watling Street, 180;
the Binovium of Ptolemy, 180;
Brancepeth Castle and the Nevilles, 180, 181;
Whitworth Hall, 181;
Merrington Church, 181, 182;
a "lewd enterprise," 182;
Eldon, 182;
Thickley and the Cromwellians, 182;
Mainsworth and the Surtees, 182;
Bishop Middleham, 182;
St. Cuthbert's resting-place, 182;
a view of Durham Cathedral, 182;
a suitable site, 182;
in warfare, religious and profane, 189-191;
the monastery, 191;
Bear Park, 191;
Ushaw College, 191;
an old leper hospital, 191;
Chester-le-Street, 192;
the "aisle of tombs," 192;
"Adam's name was Lumley," 194;
Lambton Castle and the Worm, 194;
the Biddickers, 194;
a ghost story, 194;
Sunderland, 195, 196;
St. Peter's Monastery, 195;
Wearmouth, 196;
the North Sea, 196

Wedgwood, Josiah, 224, 225

Weel, The, 199

Weldon Bridge, The angler's favourite, 123

Welland, The, 340-342

Wellingborough, 338

Wells of Dee, The, 1

Weston-on-Trent, 256

White Adder River, 79