Chapter III: The Pastry and Sweet Book (2)

Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away add _cold_ water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard. Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.

Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen. Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served with this purée.

Purée of Broad Beans

1 pint of beans
1 slice of bacon or salt pork
2 sprigs of parsley
3 small onions and one clove
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 quart water or stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour

Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set aside.

Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Carrots

2 large carrots
1 ” onion
1 ” turnip
1 quart beef stock

Scrape the carrots, and slice them finely, using the red outside part only. Slice the other vegetables. Put all together in a sauce-pan with the stock. Cook until tender. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season and add a small lump of sugar. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Endive

3 large endives
1¹⁄₂ pints chicken stock
1 table-spoon white roux
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
2 ozs. butter

Discard all but the white hearts of the endives. Wash them thoroughly, and boil them in salt water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them to stew very gently for quarter of an hour with the butter, stirring continually. Then add half a pint of white chicken stock, and simmer for an hour. Pass through a tammy. Return to the fire and add a pint more stock. Let it boil up. Season. Add the white roux (p. 12), butter and the boiling cream. Colour with spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Purée of Green Peas--I

1 pint of green peas
1 turnip
1 small onion
1 piece of mint
1 oz. of butter
1 quart brown stock

Stew the vegetables with the butter, one pint of stock, and a little celery seed, until they are quite tender. Rub them through a fine sieve or tammy. Return to the fire. Add the rest of the stock. Season, and add a lump of sugar and spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Whenever possible, use half a head of celery finely chopped, instead of the celery seed.

Purée of Green Peas--II

1 pint of peas
2 small onions
1 cabbage lettuce
1 bouquet herbs
1 quart stock
1 table-spoon white roux
1 gill cream

Stew the peas, onion (sliced), lettuce and a bouquet of herbs in the butter very gently for ten minutes. Add to them the hot stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a tammy. Re-heat gently. Season. Stir in the roux (p. 12) and a gill of cream. Serve with croûtons, or add to the soup some young cooked peas.

Purée of Italian Dried Green Peas

¹⁄₂ pint of peas
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1¹⁄₂ pints of stock or water
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
1 table-spoon butter

Soak the peas over night. Put them and the celery, chopped, on to boil with the water or stock. Boil till very tender. Put through a hair sieve or tammy. Put back on the fire and heat gently. Season. Colour with spinach colouring. Just before serving add the butter, in small pieces, and, when it has melted, the boiling cream. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Lentils

1 pint of lentils
1 head of celery
1 onion
1 turnip
1 carrot
1 slice of ham
3 pints stock or water
1 gill of cream

Soak the lentils in water over night. Let the vegetables (which should be cut up) and the ham stew gently in the butter for ten minutes. Strain the lentils from the water they have soaked in. Put them with the ham, vegetables and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for two hours. Strain off the liquid. Pound and mash the lentils, etc., and pass them through a sieve. Return them to the liquid. Boil up again. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, seasoning and the cream, scalded. Serve with fried bread (see p. 103).

Purée of Onions

6 onions
1 small turnip
¹⁄₂ head celery
1 quart white stock
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
12 button onions

Cook the large onions, turnip, celery and butter with the stock until very tender. At the same time prepare and boil the button onions until soft. Put the vegetables and stock through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the cream or milk, scalded, and the button onions. Season.

Purée of Rice

4 table-spoons rice
1 pint stock
1 pint milk or cream
1 onion
1 carrot (grated)
Bay leaf
¹⁄₂ cup fine bread crumbs
1 oz. butter

Wash and parboil the rice. Add it to the stock with a grated carrot, the sliced onion (which should have been fried a light brown in the butter), and the bread crumbs. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the scalded milk or cream, and season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Turnip

4 turnips (preferably yellow)
1 large onion
1 carrot
1 piece of celery
4 ozs. butter
1¹⁄₂ pints stock or water
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

Slice the vegetables finely and stew them in the butter. Add half a pint of the stock hot and simmer until the vegetables are very tender. Put through a sieve. Add the rest of the stock. Heat. Season. Just before serving add the scalded milk or cream.

Purée of Winter Vegetables

1 onion
1 carrot
1 large turnip
¹⁄₂ small cabbage
¹⁄₂ head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint of stewed tomatoes
1 quart of water or stock
Bouquet of sweet herb
Table-spoon butter
1 gill cream or milk

Chop all the vegetables but the cabbage and tomatoes very fine. Put them in a sauce-pan with the water or stock and boil. Cook the cabbage separately. When the vegetables are tender, add the cabbage. Simmer ten minutes. Add the tomatoes and a bouquet of herbs. Boil for quarter of an hour. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season. Add the butter and the cream.

Meat Purées

PAGE

Purée of Fowl à la Reine 73

” ” à la Reine Margot 73

” Hare 74

” Pheasant 75

” Rabbit 75

Whenever a piece of meat or fowl is added to a soup, it must be added as late as possible, and the soup must not be allowed to boil after it has been added, or even made very hot. If it boils the purée will curdle. Should it by accident do so, it is possible to remedy it by adding a little more stock to the soup, putting it all through a tammy again, and then warming it gently.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine

1 large tender fowl
¹⁄₄ lb. boiled rice
1¹⁄₂ pints water
¹⁄₂ pint cream

Roast the fowl. Cut off all the meat from it. Chop it and pound it. Break the bones and carcase of the fowl. Put them and the skin in a sauce-pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour or two. Skim and strain. Add it to the pounded meat. Pass through a tammy. Add the scalded cream. Season.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine Margot

1 fowl
1 quart water
¹⁄₂ pint cream
3 ozs. pounded almonds
1 tea-cup bread crumbs

Boil the fowl in a quart of water. When the fowl is tender, take it out and set it aside. Skim the broth and pour it into a basin. Cut all the meat off the fowl. Chop it very fine and pound it. Add to it the bread crumbs (which must be very finely grated), and the pounded almonds. Put all through a tammy and add to the broth. Season. Add the boiling cream. The yolks of three eggs can also be added if desired (see p. 50).

Purée of Hare

1 small hare
1 quart water or consommé
1 small bouquet of herbs
2 ozs. butter
2 ozs. boiled rice
¹⁄₂ pint Sauterne

Skin and clean the hare. Cut it up into small pieces. Melt the butter in a large sauce-pan. Add the pieces of hare to it with a small bouquet of herbs. Fry them a good brown colour. Add the water or stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the broth. Cut off all the meat from the hare. Chop and pound it. Add the rice. Dilute with the broth and pass through a tammy. Heat the purée gently when required, adding the Sauterne. Season. Serve with fried croûtons.

Purée of Pheasants

1 pheasant
1 quart stock
3 ozs. boiled rice
1 table-spoon glaze

Roast the pheasant until it is thoroughly done. Cut off all the meat. Set aside the white meat. Put the rest with the bones and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Chop and pound the meat. Add the rice to it. Dilute with the strained stock. Pass through a tammy. Add the table-spoonful of glaze (see p. 14). Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Rabbit

1 rabbit
1¹⁄₂ pints water
2 ozs. barley or rice (well boiled)
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 table-spoon brown roux

Roast the rabbit, seasoning it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. When it is done, cut off all the meat. Put the bones with the water to make a stock and simmer an hour or two. Skim and strain. Chop the meat and pound it. When the stock is ready, put it with the meat and barley or rice through a tammy. When ready to serve, heat the purée gently, and add the roux (see p. 12). Season, and add half a pint of scalded cream. Quenelles of rabbit may be served with this purée (see p. 105).

Bisques

PAGE

Crab Bisque 78

Lobster Bisque 78

Oyster Bisque 79

Crab Bisque

1 large crab
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
Bread crumbs or rice
2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 glass white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Take out all the meat, setting that from the claws aside. Pound the rest of the meat with the pulpy part. Add to it about half its weight in fine bread crumbs or boiled rice, and the yolks. Dilute with the stock. Rub through a tammy. Heat very gently, taking care that it does not boil. Season with salt and cayenne. Add half a pint of boiling cream, and, if desired, a glass of white wine, and the shredded meat from the claws.

Lobster Bisque

1 hen-lobster
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
¹⁄₂ head of celery
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint cream or white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Remove the meat from a hen-lobster. Set aside the coral and dry it. Cut up the meat into very fine shreds and fry them for five minutes in the butter, with the chopped celery and pepper and salt. Add the stock and boil for half-an-hour. Drain off the stock. Pound the meat and pass it through a tammy. When required, return the stock and purée to the fire. Heat gently and stir continually, stir in the coral which should have been rubbed through a very fine sieve when dry. Season and add a few drops of lemon juice, the scalded cream or half a pint of hot white wine. Do not allow the bisque to boil.

Oyster Bisque

1 pint oysters
1 pint stock
1 pint milk
1 gill cream
1 blade mace
Nutmeg
4 ozs. butter

Boil the oysters gently for quarter of an hour in the stock, adding to it one ounce of butter and the spices. Take off the fire and drain. Set aside the stock. Chop the oysters very fine. Melt two ounces of butter and add them to it. Stir in the flour gradually and smoothly. Add the stock, and a pint of milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring continually. Rub through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add a gill of boiling cream and an ounce of butter in small pieces. Stir the bisque until it is melted, but do not allow it to boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Fish Soups

PAGE

Bouillabaisse 82

Fish Soup 83

Oyster Soup 84

Salmon Soup 84

Bouillabaisse

About 3 lbs. of fish
2 onions
2 table-spoons of olive oil
¹⁄₂ a lemon
2 small tomatoes
1 glass white wine
1 laurel leaf
4 pepper corns
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Bread

Wash the fish and cut it across in slices of different sizes. Take a large iron sauce-pan, fry the onions with olive oil in it. When they are coloured a good brown add the fish to the sauce-pan and just cover it with warm water. Add also a laurel leaf, the inside of half a lemon (from which the pips have been removed), two small tomatoes (peeled and the seeds taken out) cut in dice and a glass of light white wine, the pepper-corns and salt. Make up a big fire. Set the sauce-pan on it and let the contents boil violently for twelve to fifteen minutes. Then add a table-spoon of chopped parsley. Let it continue boiling for a minute.

In a warmed soup tureen put a number of slices of roll or bread. Pour the liquid over them. See that they become thoroughly soaked with it. Add the best of the fish and serve.

The best fish to use for Bouillabaisse are cod, whiting, mullet, sole, turbot and langouste. It is absolutely essential that all the fish used should be perfectly fresh.

In France 4 cloves of garlic would be added with the tomatoes, but this is optional.

Fish Soup

1 lb. cod or halibut
1 quart milk
1 sliced onion
1 table-spoon white roux

Cook the fish in boiling salted water until it flakes easily. Drain it. Take away the bones and skin and rub the fish through a sieve. Put the sliced onion in the milk and boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion. Add the white roux (see p. 12) to the milk. Stir till well mixed. Add the fish. Season.

Oyster Soup

1 pint oysters
¹⁄₂ pint water
1 pint milk
1 gill thick cream
1 table-spoon white roux

Cover the oysters with the cold water. After a little while remove them. Strain the liquor. Put it on to boil and skim. When clear add the oysters. Let them simmer until their edges ruffle and their bodies grow plump. (This should take about five minutes.) Take out the oysters, set them where they will keep warm. Add the liquor to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the roux (see p. 12) and seasoning. Simmer five minutes. Add the boiling cream. Add the oysters.

Salmon Soup

¹⁄₂ lb. salmon
1 quart white stock
2 anchovies
¹⁄₂ head of celery
A piece of parsley
1 clove
1 gill cream
1 table-spoon white roux

Let half a pound of the salmon stew gently with the chopped anchovies, in two ounces of butter, for twenty minutes, being very careful that it does not brown. Add the stock, the celery, cut fine, parsley, spice and herbs. Bring to the boil. Add the white roux (p. 12). Simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add the boiling cream. Season and serve at once.

Broths

PAGE

Barley Broth 87

Chicken Broth 87

Cockie Leekie 88

Game Broth 89

Hotch Potch 90

Potato Broth 90

Scotch Broth 91

Sheep’s Head Broth 92

Barley Broth

2 lbs. lean mutton
¹⁄₄ lb. barley
2 turnips
2 carrots
1 leek or onion
2 table-spoons chopped parsley
2 quarts of water

Trim the mutton and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces. Put it with the barley in a sauce-pan. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Simmer for two hours, skimming from time to time. Add the vegetables, which should be finely chopped, and the parsley. Season. Simmer for forty minutes.

Chicken Broth

1 chicken
1 quart cold water
1 onion
2 table-spoons of rice

Clean the chicken. Separate it into joints, removing all skin and fat. Put it into a sauce-pan and cover with the cold water. Add the onion sliced. Simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast of the chicken from the sauce-pan. Let the rest continue to simmer until the meat comes clean away from the bones. Strain off the broth. Remove the fat. Take two table-spoonfuls of rice which has already been washed and soaked for half-an-hour. Put the broth on the fire again. Add to it the rice. Season. Add the breast of the chicken cut in small pieces. Simmer until the rice is tender. A cup of scalded cream can be added just before serving.

Cockie Leekie

1 fowl
2 lbs. shin of beef or knuckle of veal
2 quarts of water
12 leeks

Skin the fowl and cut it into joints. Put it in a stew-pan with the meat (which should not be cut up) and cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Let it simmer for two hours. Skim. Cut off the coarser part of the leeks, and cut the best parts into pieces about an inch long. (The leeks are improved by being soaked in water for two hours before using.) Add to the soup. Simmer for half-an-hour. Take out the meat and fowl. Cut the breast of the fowl into small pieces and return to the soup. Season.

A tea-cupful of boiled rice can be added if wished.

Game Broth

Two or three birds (any kind of game)
2 quarts of cold water
1 whole carrot
1 whole turnip
¹⁄₂ tea-cup chopped white cabbage
3 potatoes sliced
1 dozen small onions
1 head of celery

Cut the game into small pieces, cover with two quarts of cold water. Add an onion, two carrots, a turnip and several pieces of celery. Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently for four hours. Strain off the broth. Choose the best pieces of meat from the game, cut them up into neat pieces. Add to the broth. Put back on the fire, and add a head of celery very finely sliced, a dozen small onions, and three large potatoes cut in slices. Simmer gently for about three quarters of an hour. Add the cooked chopped cabbage, and simmer another five minutes.

Hotch Potch

2 lbs. lean mutton from the neck
2 quarts cold water
1 large carrot
1 turnip
2 onions
1 cabbage
1 small cauliflower
¹⁄₂ pint of shelled peas

Cut the mutton into dice-shaped pieces, removing the fat and skin. Put it in a sauce-pan with the water and bring to the boil. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Skim. Season. Add all the vegetables, finely chopped, except the cabbage (of which the heart only should be used and which should be cooked separately). Simmer two or three hours. Add the cabbage.

Potato Broth

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
1 oz. ham
1 oz. butter
1 small onion
3 large potatoes

Reduce the water to one quart. Strain, and remove the fat.

Chop one ounce of lean ham very fine. Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and in it fry the ham and a small sliced onion until a rich brown. Add this to the broth and simmer thirty minutes. Strain. Season.

Pare and slice three large potatoes. Add to the broth. Bring to the boil. Simmer for forty minutes.

Scotch Broth

2 lbs. scrag end neck of mutton
1 lb. best end ” ”
2 quarts water
2 carrots
2 turnips
3 small onions or 2 leeks
Small head of celery
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
3 table-spoons barley which has been soaked several hours

Soak the scrag end in cold water for an hour. Remove the skin very carefully and part of the fat. Put on to boil with two quarts of cold water. When it boils skim it. Set back to simmer for two hours. Strain. Put the strained broth into a sauce-pan. Add to it the best end of the neck, either in cutlets or using the meat only (cut in neat pieces) and the barley. Bring to the boil. Simmer two hours. Skim. Add the vegetables cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season. Simmer till vegetables are tender. Add parsley.

Sheep’s Head Broth

1 sheep’s head
1 tea-cup pearl barley
2 quarts cold water
3 onions and two cloves
1 turnip
1 carrot
Bouquet of herbs
Glass of white wine
Mushroom ketchup

Remove the brains from a sheep’s head, and clean it. Leave the head in water over night. The next day put the head in a sauce-pan with the water and barley. Bring to a boil. Throw in a little cold water. Skim. Simmer for an hour, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetables, cut up finely, and herbs. Simmer three or four hours until head is tender. Strain off the broth from the head. Put the vegetables through a sieve and add to the broth. Let it stand till cold. Remove the fat. Take the best of the meat from the head. Cut it into small pieces. Put them with the broth in a sauce-pan. Heat gently. Add a wine-glass of white wine and a little mushroom ketchup just before serving.

Broths and Soups for Invalids

PAGE

Beef Essence 95

Beef Tea--I 95

Beef Tea--II 96

” ” --III 96

Calves’ Foot Broth 97

Chicken Broth 98

” Custard 98

” Panada 99

Game Panada 99

Chicken Tea 100

Mutton Broth 100

Veal Broth 101

It is essential in making invalid soups that the meat used should be uncooked and very good.

For beef tea use steak or shin of beef.

Every piece of skin, membrane and fat should be carefully removed from the meat to be used.

Vegetables, spice and seasoning should not be used unless permitted by the doctor.

When soup has to be made quickly a little time can be saved by removing the fat from it while it is still hot (see p. 3).

Beef Essence

Cut up a lean piece of juicy rump steak into small pieces. Put these into a closely covered jar without any water. Stand the jar in a large sauce-pan containing cold water. Heat slowly and keep just below boiling point. When the meat in the jar is white, it is done. This should be in about two hours. Strain off the juice, pressing the meat while doing so in order that none may be left in it. Season with a little salt.

OR,

Place the meat in a closely covered jar in a moderate oven, leaving it there for three hours. Strain as above.

In both cases the essence should be kept in a cold place. It must not be boiled when it is heated. It can be made into beef tea by adding boiling water to it.

Beef Tea--I

1 lb. very juicy rump steak or shin of beef
1 cup cold water

Cut the meat into very small pieces. Put these in a bowl and cover with a cup of cold water. Cover the basin and leave for three or four hours. Then, squeezing the meat firmly, drain off all the liquid. Strain this, add a little salt, and when required heat very gently. It is best to do this in a _bain marie_, as it curdles easily (see p. 110).

Add another cup of cold water to the meat, and proceed as for the first cup.

Beef Tea--II

1 lb. steak or shin of beef
2 pints water

Cut the meat, which must be lean and juicy, into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan and cover with a quart of water. Heat very gently. Skim whenever necessary. Simmer for a little more than an hour. Strain through muslin into a basin. Let it stand until cool. Remove the fat. Pour off the clear beef tea very gently from the dregs.

Beef Tea--III

4 lbs. of steak or shin of beef
2 lbs. bones
2 quarts cold water

Break and crush the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a stew-pan and cover with the cold water. Heat very slowly. Simmer for three hours. Add a little salt. Strain into a basin. Allow it to cool. Remove any fat very carefully. Pour off the clear liquid carefully from the dregs.

If allowed, a little carrot and celery may be cooked with the beef tea.

Calves’ Foot Broth (or Jelly)

2 calves’ feet
2 quarts cold water
2 table-spoons sugar
Juice of half a lemon
Glass of good white wine

Scald and clean the feet. Split and break them. Put into a stew-pan and cover with two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly and simmer until reduced to about a pint and a half. Strain. When cold remove the fat. Add sugar and lemon juice. Return to the fire. Let it boil for five minutes, stirring continually. Skim thoroughly. Add the wine. Strain through a jelly bag, and keep in a cold place.

In making broth, the wine may be omitted, and in its place the beaten yolk of an egg added. In which case it will only be necessary to strain it instead of passing it through a jelly bag. Sago or tapioca, which has been boiled till tender, should be added.

Chicken Broth

One chicken
1 quart of cold water
Juice of a lemon
Boiled rice or vermicelli

Cut up a chicken into small pieces. Remove the meat from the bones as much as possible. Crush the bones. Cover meat and bones with a quart of water. Heat very slowly. Simmer until perfectly tender. When tender strain off the liquid. Let it get cool. Remove the fat. Heat again, adding a little salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Allow the broth to boil for five minutes. Strain through a napkin. Add a little well boiled rice or vermicelli, and a little of the white meat of the chicken cut in dice.

Chicken Custard

1 chicken
3 pints of cold water
2 yolks of eggs

Clean, skin and cut up a young chicken. Put it into a stew-pan with about three pints of cold water. Heat very slowly. Skim carefully when it boils. Allow it to simmer for an hour. Strain off the liquid through a napkin.

To each half pint of broth add the yolks of two eggs. Put in a double boiler and stir until it thickens (see p. 50). Serve at once.

Chicken Panada

1 chicken
1 French roll
1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and boil it gently until tender. Remove it from the liquid and let it cool. Then cut off the white meat, pound it in a mortar. Mix with it the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked in broth. Add a little of the broth the chicken was boiled in. Pass through a tammy. Dilute with broth. Salt. Heat gently, but do not allow it to boil.

A table-spoon of well-boiled rice may be substituted for the crumb of a French roll.

Game Panada

Game panada is made in exactly the same way as chicken panada, substituting a pheasant, or a couple of partridges, for the chicken.

Chicken Tea

1 chicken
1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and divide it into pieces. Put in a stew-pan and cover with one quart of water. Simmer gently for a full hour. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve hot or cold.

Mutton Broth

1 lb. lean mutton
1 pint cold water
2 table-spoons boiled rice

Chop the mutton very fine. Put it in a stew-pan with one pint of cold water. Put it in a basin and cover it with the water. Cover the basin. Let it stand for an hour. Then heat very gently. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain. Remove the fat. Add the well-boiled rice.

Veal Broth

A knuckle of veal
A chicken
2 quarts of water
2 table-spoons well-boiled rice

Put a knuckle of veal and a chicken (an old one will do) into a large stew-pan. Cover with two quarts of water. Let it boil up gently. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain through a napkin. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve with a little boiled rice.

Accessories

PAGE

Croûtons 104

Custards 104

Force-meat Balls 105

Green Colouring 105

Potato Balls 106

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare, Rabbit 106

Quenelles of Marrow 107

Rice 107

Rice (savoury) 108

Rice Balls 108

Croûtons

Several slices of stale bread
1 oz. of butter

Cut off the crust and cut the bread into small dice-shaped pieces. Fry them in the butter. Drain them on a sieve. Before serving, put them for a few minutes in a quick oven.

Custards for Clear Soup

4 yolks of eggs
1 gill consommé or water

Beat the yolks in a basin, stir in the consommé or water. Add a little salt. Strain through a hair sieve into a shallow mould. Steam it until well set. Let it become quite cold. Put out on a wet cloth. Cut in squares or fancy shapes. Part of the custard may be coloured green with spinach colouring.

Force-meat Balls

1 cup of meat of any kind
1 tea-spoon finely chopped parsley
1 salt-spoon thyme
1 tea-spoon lemon juice
1 yolk of egg (raw)
1 table-spoon flour
1 ” butter

Chop the meat very fine, season it highly, and add the lemon juice, thyme and parsley. Moisten with the yolk of egg. Roll into small balls. Flour them well. Melt the butter in a shallow pan. When it is brown add the balls. Fry until brown.

Green Colouring

Pound some spinach in a mortar and put it through a hair sieve. Put the juice in a sauce-pan and boil it until it curdles. Put through a very fine sieve. Bottle.

Potato Balls

(For Potato or Clear Soups)

2 potatoes
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon thick cream
1 egg

Boil the potatoes. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter and cream. Season. Stir over a good fire until of a stiff consistency. Remove from the fire and put in a basin. Add the yolk of an egg and the beaten white. Form into small balls. Drop into boiling water. Boil two or three minutes.

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare or Rabbit

4 ozs. meat
2 ozs. bread-crumbs
2 ozs. butter
1 whole egg and 1 extra yolk

Chop and pound the meat. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little milk or broth. Mix all thoroughly together. Season. Pass through a sieve. Form into balls. Drop into boiling water or broth and simmer for three minutes.

The best meat should always be reserved for making quenelles.

Quenelles of Marrow

4 ozs. marrow
4 ozs. fine bread-crumbs
1 egg
¹⁄₂ tea-spoonful finely-chopped parsley

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. Season. Roll in the hand in small balls. Boil in a little broth for fifteen minutes.

Rice

1 cup of Carolina rice
2 quarts boiling water
1 table-spoon salt

Wash a cup of rice thoroughly. Drain it. Throw it into a large sauce-pan of salted boiling water and let it boil as fast as possible for twenty minutes. Do not stir. Drain. Put into cold water for ten minutes. Drain again. When required warm it by steaming, or set it in the oven, leaving the door open.

Savoury Rice

(To serve with Clear Soup)

Prepare the rice as above. Add to it one cup of rich stock which has been highly seasoned. Steam to warm. Add a table-spoon of butter just before serving.

OR,

Add a table-spoon of chopped onion which has been fried a rich yellow in a table-spoon of butter, to the cooked rice. Moisten with a cup of stock and steam for ten minutes.

Rice Balls

(For Cream of Rice or Clear Soups)

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 oz. butter
1 oz. grated Parmesan
2 yolks of eggs
1 whole egg

Boil the rice until quite soft. Drain it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter, cheese and yolks. Stir continually for five minutes. Season. Take off the fire. Turn out of the sauce-pan to cool. When cold, make into small balls. Beat the whole egg. Roll the balls first in a little flour, then in the egg. Fry in very hot lard till a rich yellow.

Sauces

There is, of course, no end to sauces, and in a book of this size it is impossible to do justice to their variety. Enough are, however, I hope, given in the pages that follow for ordinary needs.

It is of the highest importance in making sauces that the materials used should be of the best. Fresh butter and the finest olive oil should be used.

When adding the yolks of eggs to sauces it is best to do so in a _bain marie_ (_i.e._ to stand the sauce-pan in which the sauce is being made, inside a larger one full of boiling water), as they must never be allowed to boil, and a quick fire easily burns them.

For thickening sauces, etc., see remarks on soup on p. 12.

Hot Sauces for Fish

PAGE

Black Butter 112

Dutch Sauce 112

Genoese Sauce 113

Italian Sauce 113

Maître d’Hotel Sauce 114

Melted Butter 114

Anchovy Sauce 114

Cucumber Sauce 114

Egg Sauce 114

Shrimp Sauce 114

Oyster Sauce 115

Sauce Hollandaise 115

Black Butter

(For Skate, grilled Mackerel)

1 gill vinegar
4 ozs. butter
Several small parsley leaves
Small piece of bay leaf

Boil the vinegar with the bay leaf until it is considerably reduced.

Heat the butter in a pan until it becomes brown. Add the parsley leaves. Let them fry for a moment. Skim the butter.

Remove the bay leaf from the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper. Pour the butter and parsley leaves into it. Mix and serve.

Dutch Sauce

Butter, size of an egg
1 tea-spoon flour
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
Juice of half a lemon
2 yolks of eggs

Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Stir in the flour and mix till perfectly smooth. Add the milk or cream. Boil for two or three minutes. Add lemon juice, and just before serving, stir in the two yolks. After which do not allow the sauce to boil.

Genoese Sauce

(For Fillet of Sole)

1 oz. butter
2 table-spoons olive oil
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon vinegar

Put the oil and butter into a sauce-pan on the fire and stir till the butter is melted. Beat the yolks slightly. Add the vinegar to them. Season. Directly the butter is melted add the yolks and vinegar, stirring continually over a _bain marie_ until the sauce thickens. Half a tea-spoonful of mustard may be added.

Italian Sauce

(For Mackerel, etc.)

2 table-spoons olive oil
1 oz. butter
6 chopped mushrooms
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
1 clove
1 wine-glass white wine
10 drops Liebig’s extract of meat

Put the butter and oil into a sauce-pan. Add the mushrooms, shallot, parsley and the clove. Cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and Liebig. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Season. Pass through a sieve.

Maître d’Hotel

4 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint milk
1 tea-spoon flour
1 dessert-spoon finely chopped parsley
Juice of a lemon

Mix the flour and butter together till smooth. Melt in a sauce-pan. Add the boiling milk. Let all boil for three or four minutes, stirring constantly. Add the parsley and lemon juice.

Melted Butter

1 tea-spoon flour
4 ozs. butter
1 gill boiling milk or water

Mix the flour and butter thoroughly in a basin. When perfectly smooth put in a sauce-pan. Add to it the boiling milk or water. Let it boil for two or three minutes. Stir continually from left to right. Season.

To this sauce the raw yolk of an egg or a finely chopped hard boiled egg, shrimps, a little essence of anchovy, or a table spoon of grated cucumber may be added; when it becomes egg, shrimp, anchovy or cucumber sauce. To the cucumber sauce add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice.

Oyster Sauce

2 doz. oysters
3 ozs. butter
1 tea-spoon flour
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 coffee-spoon lemon juice

Prepare the oysters and stew them in their own juice and the butter until plump and tender. Mix the flour with the cream, until perfectly smooth. Bring to the boil and let it boil two or three minutes. Add it to the oysters, etc. Stir quickly together. Season with salt, a little cayenne and the lemon juice.

Sauce Hollandaise

4 table-spoons vinegar
1 blade mace
1 tea-spoon flour
Yolks of 4 eggs
3 ozs. butter

Season the vinegar, add to it the flour and mix perfectly smooth. Add the mace. Bring to the boil and boil for two or three minutes. Take off the fire, and take out the mace. Add the butter cut in small pieces, and the well-beaten yolks. Stir continually, in one direction, over a _bain marie_. Serve directly the butter is melted.

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.

PAGE

Brown Sauce 118

Cucumber Sauce 118

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce 119

Maître d’Hotel I. 120

” ” II. 120

Mushroom Sauce 121

Onion ” 121

Sauce Béarnaise 122

Sauce for Chops and Steaks 122

Sauce Piquante au Citron 123

Sauce Robert 123

Sauce Vinaigrette 124

Tomato Sauce 124

Brown Sauce or Cullis

3 lbs. lean veal
1 lb. raw lean ham
1 oz. butter
6 mushrooms chopped
1 carrot chopped
1 onion chopped
Rind of a lemon
Small bouquet of herbs
1 tea-spoon allspice
1 quart brown stock
¹⁄₄ lb. brown roux

Slice the veal and ham. Add the vegetables, spice, lemon rind and herbs, and brown slightly in a sauce-pan with the butter. Add the stock and brown roux (see p. 13). Boil ten minutes. Stir continually. Put through a tammy.

Cucumber Sauce

1 cucumber
2 table-spoons brown stock
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Juice of half a lemon
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce

Peel and split the cucumber lengthwise in four pieces. Take out the seeds. Cut in small pieces. Put into salted water and boil gently for seven minutes. Take off and drain. Melt the butter and add to it the stock, cucumber and parsley. Cook gently for half-an-hour. Add the brown sauce and lemon juice.

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

(For Roast Beef or Steak)

1 tea-cup horse-radish
¹⁄₂ pint water
3 ozs. butter
3 table-spoons flour
1 gill cream
4 yolks of eggs
3 table-spoons elder vinegar

Scrape the horse-radish very finely, and boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain off the water. Cook the horse-radish with the butter and flour for four minutes. Add the water in which the horse-radish was boiled, stirring continually. Heat. Take off the fire. Add the hot cream and then the beaten yolks. Beat well together. Add pepper, salt and the vinegar.

Maître d’Hotel--I

2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Juice of half a lemon

Melt the butter. Skim it. Add the parsley (and, if liked, a little finely chopped shallot), salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Maître d’Hotel--II

4 shallots
1 tea-spoon chopped parsley
1 tea-spoon chopped fennel
1 dozen mushrooms
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce or béchamel

Chop the shallots. Put them with the parsley, fennel and mushrooms in a sauce-pan in which the butter has been melted. Cook gently for five minutes. Add the brown sauce or béchamel (see pp. 118 and 126). Boil ten minutes. Season and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Mushroom Sauce

2 dozen small mushrooms
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 pint good gravy
¹⁄₂ a lemon

Cook the mushrooms in the butter until brown and tender. Add the flour. Stir well in and brown. Pour the gravy over the mushrooms. Boil three minutes. Season and add a little lemon juice.

Onion Sauce

(For Roast Mutton)

4 onions
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter (see p. 114)

Slice and chop the onions finely. Boil until tender. Drain and add to the hot melted butter. Season. If preferred, the onion can be first passed through a fine sieve and then added to the melted butter.

Sauce Béarnaise

5 yolks of eggs
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon chopped tarragon
1 dessert-spoon vinegar

Put the yolks in a sauce-pan, in a _bain marie_, and stir into them one ounce of butter. As soon as the eggs begin to thicken, take off the fire. Add another ounce of butter, the tarragon and vinegar. This sauce should be of the consistency of a mayonnaise. Serve with roast meats.

Sauce for Chops or Steak

2 table-spoons red wine
2 table-spoons ketchup
1 tea-spoon butter
1 tea-spoon vinegar

Stir altogether in a sauce-pan. Season and serve very hot.

Sauce Piquante au Citron

(For Calf’s Head)

2 table-spoons chopped onions
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill white stock
1 gill white wine
1 lemon

Fry the onion in the butter, with the flour, until a rich yellow. Add to it the stock, which should be boiling, and the wine. Stir together. Add the juice of the lemon and a little of the grated rind. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve.

Sauce Robert

(For Pork)

3 onions
1 gill rich brown gravy
1 tea-spoon made mustard
1 tea-spoon vinegar
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon flour

Chop the onions. Fry them in the butter. Add the flour. Mix quite smooth. Add the gravy, salt and pepper. Simmer for half-an-hour. Skim. Add the mustard and vinegar. Serve with pork.

Sauce Vinaigrette

4 table-spoons vinegar
1 bay leaf
1 table-spoon brown sauce
1 table-spoon chopped shallots
2 table-spoons chopped gherkins
1 table-spoon capers
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
1 oz. butter

Boil the vinegar for quarter of an hour with the bay leaf. Add the sauce (see p. 118). Simmer five minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the shallots (which should have been previously cooked in the butter and allowed to drain upon a sieve), capers, gherkins and parsley.

Tomato Sauce

6 tomatoes
¹⁄₂ an onion chopped
1 clove
1 slice of ham
1 gill rich brown gravy
1 table-spoon brown roux

Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. Stew them with the onion, ham and clove in an enamel sauce-pan until well cooked. Rub through a tammy. Return to the sauce-pan. Add the gravy and brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer for quarter of an hour.

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.

PAGE

Apple Sauce 126

Béchamel Sauce 126

Bread Sauce 127

Celery Sauce 127

Gooseberry Sauce 128

Lemon Sauce 128

Parsley Sauce 129

Sauce à la Reine 129

White Sauce 130

Apple Sauce

Set the required quantity of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, in a small pan inside a large sauce-pan containing boiling water. Let the water boil quickly until the apples are done. Mash them and add sugar to taste.

OR,

Pare, quarter and remove the core of several sour apples. Put them a sauce-pan with a little water. Boil up quickly. Do not stir until cooked. Then add sugar and mash.

Béchamel

1 lb. veal
2 slices ham
2 pints water
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
1 onion
Bouquet of herbs
5 table-spoons white roux
1 pint of cream

Slice the veal, ham, mushrooms and onion and stew them gently for an hour and a half in the water. Thicken with the roux (see p. 12). Add the cream. Boil for two or three minutes, stirring continually. Strain.

Bread Sauce

¹⁄₂ pint milk
1 tea-cup bread-crumbs
1 onion
2 pepper-corns
1 tea-spoon butter

Slice the onion and boil it in the milk with the pepper-corns until very tender. Strain off the milk and add it to the bread-crumbs which should be made from stale bread and be very finely grated. Allow the sauce to stand covered for a few minutes. Add the butter. Stir in thoroughly. Season and serve very hot.

Celery Sauce

1 large head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon white roux

Use the best of the celery only. Cut it in small pieces. Cook it in water until very tender. Put through a sieve. Add it to the cream or milk. Thicken with a small table-spoon white roux (see p. 12). Season.

Gooseberry Sauce

(For Duckling or Goose)

1 gill spinach juice
¹⁄₂ pint stock
¹⁄₂ pint gooseberries
1 table-spoon sugar
1 tea-spoon butter

Cook the gooseberries till tender. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan on the fire. Add the sugar (more if preferred) and butter. When thoroughly mixed, add the stock with which the spinach juice (see p. 104) has been mixed. Make very hot.

Lemon Sauce

(For Rabbit or Fowl)

1 lemon
1 liver of fowl or rabbit
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter
1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Cook the liver, pound it and put it through a sieve. Peel the lemon, cut the inside, from which the pips must be removed, into very small dice-shaped pieces. Add the lemon and liver to the melted butter. Heat gently, but do not boil. Add the parsley.

Parsley Sauce

Small bunch of parsley
¹⁄₂ pint melted butter

Boil the parsley for five minutes. Drain. Chop finely. Add to the melted butter.

OR,

To one gill of water in which a fowl has been boiled, add one gill of cream, one dessert-spoon white roux (see p. 12), seasoning and the boiled and chopped parsley.

Sauce à la Reine

¹⁄₂ pint veal stock
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
Small bouquet of herbs
¹⁄₂ an onion
¹⁄₂ pint cream
Breast of a fowl
Juice of half a lemon
1 tea-spoon flour

Let the veal stock simmer for half-an-hour with the mushrooms, onion, and herbs. Then strain. Thicken with the flour. Boil two or three minutes. Add the boiling cream. Set back on the fire and add the finely pounded breast, lemon juice and seasoning. Do not allow the sauce to boil after the chicken has been added.

White Sauce

1 gill veal or chicken stock
1 gill cream
Juice of half a lemon
Juice of half a Seville orange

Mix all together. Heat gently, stirring continually. Season.

Hot Sauces for Game, etc.

PAGE

Cream Sauce 132

Game Sauce 132

German Sauce 133

Madeira Sauce 133

Orange Sauce 134

Sauce Poivrade 134

Sour Cream Sauce 135

Cream Sauce

The gravy from two roasted birds
1 gill cream

Stir the cream into gravy of the birds with which it is to be served. Season. Add a few drops of lemon.

Game Sauce

2 onions
A bouquet of thyme, bay leaf and parsley
Several pieces of game
1 slice of ham
1 oz. of butter
4 table-spoons of Madeira
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)

Cut the onions, ham and game into small pieces. Add to them the bouquet. Fry them gently in the butter. Add the Madeira. Simmer twenty minutes. Add the sauce and simmer ten minutes. Pass through a sieve.

German Sauce

¹⁄₂ pint rich brown stock
1 tea-spoon glaze
Pheasant bones
12 mushrooms
1 glass white wine

Break the pheasant bones. Add them to the stock. Simmer half-an-hour. Add the mushrooms. Simmer till tender. Put through a sieve. Add glaze, seasoning and glass of wine.

Madeira Sauce

¹⁄₂ onion
¹⁄₂ carrot
1 bay leaf
2 cloves
1 slice ham
1 gill brown stock or gravy
¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)
1 glass Madeira
Cayenne
Juice of half a lemon

Slice the onion and carrot. Put them, with the bay leaf, clove and the ham, cut in small pieces, in a sauce-pan. Cover with the brown stock. Boil up quickly. Simmer half-an-hour. Season. Add Madeira, brown sauce and lemon juice. Rub through a fine sieve. Colour with caramel colouring (see p. 13) if not dark enough, and stir in the butter.

Orange Sauce

2 Seville oranges
¹⁄₂ lemon
1 glass red wine
1 gill brown gravy
1 lump of sugar

Grate the yellow part of the skin of one orange very finely. Add it to the brown gravy. Simmer a few minutes. Add the wine, the juice of two oranges and half a lemon, a little cayenne and the sugar. Serve with game or wild duck.

Sauce Poivrade

1 oz. butter
2 onions
1 carrot
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 tea-spoon flour
1 glass red wine
1 glass water
1 table-spoon vinegar

Melt the butter, add the onions and carrot sliced, the cloves, bay-leaf and flour. Cook until a good brown, then add the wine, water and vinegar. Boil half-an-hour. Strain. Season with salt and whole pepper. Serve with game.

Sour Cream Sauce

2 ozs. butter
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill sour cream
1 gill brown stock
A little nutmeg
A few drops of lemon juice

Cook the butter and flour together, but do not brown. Take off the fire and add the yolks. When thoroughly mixed add the cream and stock, salt, nutmeg and lemon. Heat but do not boil. Pass through a tammy. Heat again without boiling.

Cold Sauces

PAGE

Anchovy Butter 137

Horse-radish Sauce 137

Mayonnaise Sauce 138

Mint Sauce 138

Sauce for Cold Fish 139

Sauce Gaillarde 139

Sauce Moutarde 140

Sauce Ravigote 140

Sauce Remoulade 141

Anchovy Butter

4 ozs. anchovies
6 ozs. butter

Wash and dry the anchovies. Pound them and put them through a sieve. Beat the butter to a cream and add to it the anchovies.

Horse-radish Sauce

2 table-spoons grated horse-radish
1 tea-spoon mustard
1 dessert-spoon sugar
1 table-spoon vinegar
2 table-spoons thick cream

It is essential in making this sauce that the horse-radish should be grated as fine as possible. Mix all together, adding the vinegar slowly, and the cream last of all.

Mayonnaise Sauce

1 or 2 raw yolks of egg
Olive oil
Vinegar

Put the yolk into a bowl and beat it slightly. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring continually in one direction, and working it well against the sides of the bowl. When the sauce becomes thick, the oil may be added more quickly. Continue adding oil until sufficient sauce has been made. Add vinegar, salt, pepper to taste. This sauce should be made in a cold place and will take about fifteen minutes to make. Finely chopped tarragon, chervil and olives may be added to the mayonnaise.

Mint Sauce

1 handful of mint chopped
1 gill vinegar
2 table-spoons powdered or brown sugar

Melt the sugar in the vinegar. Chop the mint very fine. It cannot be too fine. Add it to the vinegar.

Sauce for Cold Fish

4 anchovies
3 yolks (hard boiled)
2 yolks (raw)
1 tea-spoon mustard
Oil
Vinegar
A little smoked salmon

Clean, bone and pound the anchovies with the hard boiled eggs. Add the mustard and raw yolks, stirring all the time. Add vinegar and oil until you have a sufficient quantity of sauce, using three times as much oil as vinegar, and stirring continually and always in the same direction. Add salt, pepper and a little shredded smoked salmon.

Sauce Gaillarde

2 hard boiled eggs
2 gherkins
4 small pickled onions
A little tarragon and chervil
Oil
Vinegar

Crush the yolks and add to them the whites, gherkins, onions, tarragon and chervil finely chopped. Add oil very slowly, turning continually from left to right until the quantity of sauce required has been made. Add one or two table-spoons of vinegar. Salt, pepper and a little mustard.

Sauce Moutarde

2 hard boiled yolks
2 table-spoons olive oil
3 table-spoons vinegar
1 table-spoon mustard
1 small handful tarragon

Crush the yolks and add to them the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and mustard. Stir well together. Chop the tarragon very finely. Add it to the sauce.

Sauce Ravigote

2 hard boiled yolks
2 raw yolks
1 dessert-spoon mustard
Tarragon, shallot, parsley, chives
Capers, gherkins
Oil
Vinegar

Pound and pass the hard boiled yolks through a sieve. Mix them thoroughly with the raw yolk and mustard. Add oil as for mayonnaise until the required quantity is made. Season. Add vinegar to taste and a little very finely chopped tarragon, shallot, parsley, and chives. Just before serving add a table-spoon capers and chopped gherkins.

Sauce Remoulade

1 hard boiled yolk
1 raw yolk
1 coffee-spoon mustard
1 large table-spoon chopped shallots, parsley and chervil
Oil
Vinegar

Put the hard boiled and raw yolk with the mustard in a basin. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil very slowly, stirring continually in one direction. The quantity of oil used depends on the quantity of sauce required. Add a large table-spoon of finely chopped parsley, chervil and shallots. A very little vinegar, salt and pepper.

THE END

Index

Soups

Artichoke Soup, 35.

” ”, 42.

Asparagus, Purée of, 61.

Asparagus Soup, 35.

Bain Marie, 110.

Barley Broth, 87.

Beef Essence, 95.

Beef Tea,--I., 95.