Chapter IV: Foreword: xi

I. OUTLYING JAPAN 1

II. HISTORIC KYOTO 23

III. FIRST DAYS AT THE EMBASSY 40

IV. COURT FUNCTIONS 64

V. LIFE IN TOKYO 90

VI. THE GROWING EMPIRE 112

VII. A YEAR OF FESTIVALS 136

VIII. CULTS AND SHRINES 164

IX. NEW LIGHT FOR OLD 188

X. PROSE, POETRY AND PLAYS 214

XI. AMUSEMENTS 245

XII. BEAR-HUNTING AMONG THE AINUS 274

XIII. MOTORING AND CRUISING 293

XIV. FLOWERS, INDOORS AND OUT 326

XV. THE ARTIST'S JAPAN 350

XVI. SAYONARA DAI NIPPON 375

BIBLIOGRAPHY 383

INDEX 385

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

COURT AND GATE, SHIBA PARK, TOKYO (_in full colour_)
(_see page 60_) _Frontispiece_

MAP OF JAPAN _facing_ 1

A KOREAN COUPLE 8

A VIEW OF SEOUL 10

THE AMERICAN CONSULATE, SEOUL 16

"WE PASSED ... STRANGELY LADEN HORSES" 23

THE TOMB OF MUTSUHITO 25

THE FUNERAL CORTEGE 27

HIDEYOSHI'S HOUSE AND GARDEN 29

THE AMERICAN EMBASSY, TOKYO 42

JAPANESE SERVANTS 46

"SECRET"--WOOD-CUT BY MISS HYDE 51

SHIBA PARK, TOKYO 60

THE COACHMAN AND THE _BETTO_ OF THE AMERICAN
EMBASSY 65

THE MOATS, IMPERIAL CASTLE, TOKYO 67

THE LATE EMPEROR 80

"LITTLE GIRLS WITH LITTLER GIRLS ON THEIR BACKS"
(_in full colour_) 110

A RICE FIELD 130

DISPLAY OF DOLLS, DOLLS' FESTIVAL 147

DISPLAY OF ARMOUR AND TOYS, BOYS' FESTIVAL 153

GRAND SHRINE OF ISE 167

LACQUER WORK (_in full colour_) 175

EASTERN HONGWANJI TEMPLE, KYOTO 177

THE HONDEN, IYEYASU, NIKKO 180

OFF MIYAJIMA 183

MISS TSUDA'S SCHOOL, TOKYO 195

RED CROSS HOSPITAL BUILDINGS 206

ARMOUR AND WEAPONS OF ANCIENT WARRIORS 223

A JAPANESE STAGE 242

GEISHA GIRLS AT THE ICHIRIKI TEA-HOUSE, KYOTO 246

AN ACTOR OF THE PRESENT DAY 254

MR. ARNELL AND MR. ARNOLD IN A JAPANESE PLAY 260

A WRESTLER 265

THE _NO_ DANCE 271

THE HUNTING PARTY 274

MR. ARNELL AND AINUS 286

_KAGOS_ (SEDAN-CHAIRS) FOR MOUNTAIN CLIMBS 293

THE BUDDHA OF KAMAKURA 297

FUJI FROM OTOME-TOGE (_in full colour_) 302

"LOOKED WISELY AT SOME PRESENTS WHICH WE HAD
FOR HIM" 306

THE WONDERFUL AVENUE OF CRYPTOMERIAS 310

LAKE BIWA 314

AMA-NO-HASHIDATE 316

ANCIENT TEMPLE NEAR NARA 318

A VIEW OF MATSUSHIMA 320

JAPANESE JUNKS 322

THE GREAT _TORII_ 323

A JAPANESE FLOWER MAN (_in full colour_) 330

_IKE-BANA_ OR FLOWER ARRANGEMENT 336

"THE TABLE DECORATIONS ... ARE ESPECIALLY INTERESTING" 339

A JAPANESE GARDEN, TOKYO (_in full colour_) 342

A CARVED PANEL 353

THE CASTLE OF HIMEJI 355

VIEW OF MOUNT FUJIYAMA--PRINT BY HOKUSAI 364

THE LITTLE APES OF NIKKO 379

THE
SPELL OF JAPAN