Chapter X: Journey's End

The little coral island of Bancoran lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea, quite outside the usual routes of travel. It is inhabited only by birds, and people seldom or never go there. But we wanted to obtain, if we could, some new species of gulls or terns for the Bureau of Science at Manila, and also to enjoy the mysterious sea gardens which are found among the southern reefs. Just after tiffin the island was sighted, lying quite alone by itself in milky green water. The ship stopped and launches were dropped overboard, and a glass-bottomed boat which had been brought along for our use.

The afternoon was ideal--the sky blue and fleeced with snowy clouds piled high, while the intense sun shining on the water flashed back a hundred shades of blue and green and mauve. On one side of the island, which floated like an emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks chafed the seas into foaming surf, while on the other a long, narrow beach lay shimmering, pale yellow in the sunlight. The island itself was covered with a thick jungle of trees, which were dotted with thousands of resting birds. As we drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, rising and soaring and circling in the clear, pure air, and crying out at us. Flock after flock of sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft, their white breasts tinted green with the light reflected from the water.

It was like a Robinson Crusoe island, lost out there in the lonely sea. But there were shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which suggested that sometime a feast must have been held there, so it was not wholly undiscovered and unexplored. Among the great roots of the trees the birds had built their nests from leaves. The eggs in some of them were white and about the size of hens' eggs. Several varieties of boobies and terns were found, some brown with green-blue eyes, others ivory-white. A few specimens were shot, and one or two were taken back alive to the _Rizal_ for the museum. Previous to this visit the ornithologists had never known to what islands the boobies and frigate birds came to nest, although the scientists had long been searching for the place, so the expedition was well worth while.

But the sea gardens interested me more than the birds or even the island. If Alice could have had her choice in entering Wonderland, she would surely have selected a doorway leading through a glass-bottomed boat, instead of dropping down a rabbit's hole. Beneath the water, which was crystal clear, we could see a strange country with new flowers and peculiar creatures. Where it was sandy and shallow we saw below us fields of green sea grass, on which the fairies must surely have used lawn-mowers, it was so neatly kept.

Interspersed among the fields were beds of feathery, lace-like vegetation unnamed in the language of our party. Passing one expanse after another of this submarine pasturage, we saw depressions in the coral, where tiny fishes played or unknown water creatures had established a little world for themselves and were living in its narrow confines quite unconscious of what went on in the surrounding vastness.

Drifting on into deeper water, we came to a ghost-like gray world of curls and feathers, trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and swaying brown ones, of high hills and dark valleys, made by coral reefs. Pretty rock gardens came into view, where there were cabbages with blue edges, sea anemones and purple fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus, and a cactus plant--at least, that is what they looked like to us. There were rainbow shells, too, half hidden, and great blue starfish clinging to the rocks. In and out among the sponges and the brown coral branches, which were so much like antlers, swam curious fishes. Such gorgeous colours--so vivid and in such brilliant combinations! Some were big green fellows, with needle noses; others were electric blue and silver; there were black and yellow ones, too, and striped fishes that looked like sly prisoners dodging their keepers.[27]

We passed the greater part of the afternoon marooned on this far-away island, some of us going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in the clear water. As evening came on we regretfully left the fairy island of Bancoran, and sailed away by the rising moon.

The Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have described in another chapter, was our next point of interest. We left there behind schedule and met a stronger current than we had expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay, so that it was no wonder that we were late in approaching Iloilo. This was especially unfortunate, for very generous preparations had been made there for the Secretary's reception and an interesting series of events arranged, all of which was upset by the delay.

It was sunset when we finally sighted the town. As we cruised up the steeply palisaded coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay on the other side, backed by its fine ranges of mountains, the effects were most beautiful. The old Spanish fort on its point looked mysterious in the afterglow, and the skies were magnificently alight. A fleet of much beflagged launches and steamers came out to meet the Secretary, whistling a welcome, and turning, escorted the _Rizal_.

Next to Manila, Iloilo is the most important port in the Islands, and has a better climate than its rival. The people here are supposed to be wealthier and more aristocratic than elsewhere. The Payne bill, which had been in operation only a short time, had brought such a return of prosperity to the land, and especially to the planters of this fertile province, that they were all very enthusiastic about Americans, and did all they could to express their gratitude.

We were invited for dinner at half after seven, but it was an hour later before we sat down to the long table in the large and rather empty room, with its handsome Venetian mirrors at either end, and its sliding shutters wide open to the night. There were no ladies present except those of our party. We could never tell how things would be arranged,--sometimes there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes there would not; sometimes the ladies would all be placed together at one side of the table, and again they would be seated next to the men. While waiting for dinner to be announced, we sat about in an airy room, with half-dressed servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph playing Caruso records.

After dinner we had a long drive out through the town, which seemed quite business-like and prosperous. They had rebuilt some of the fine, large, wide-open houses, most of which had been destroyed by the insurrectos. (On the nearby island of Negros, we were told, there were many fine _haciendas_ with great houses full of carved work which I was sorry not to see.) Passing through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on their stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza gaily illuminated, and to our destination, a mansion approached by a triumphal arch. In the best houses the living rooms are on the second floor, just as in the poorer ones they are raised above the ground on stilts. So here we went upstairs to a great room hung with festoons of flags, where the little women in their bright and varied dresses passing and repassing made a gay scene. It was here, indeed, that we saw some of the prettiest and best dressed women whom we met on our trip.

Most of the following day was spent cruising along the coast of Panay, passing between its fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the Inland Sea of Japan. In the afternoon we came to the entrance of the river on which Capiz is located. The Secretary crossed overland on the first train to run on the new railway, in order to drive in the silver spikes that completed the line.

No dinners had been planned there for those of us who had come by ship, so we did not start up river until half after eight. Capiz is only four miles from the mouth, but they were the longest miles we had ever experienced, for by some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we went in a _Rizal_ launch without one. We just struggled along as well as we could in the dark till the moon came up, which only mystified us the more with its deceptive shadows. Half a dozen times we ran deep into mud banks, and the sailormen were forced to jump overboard and shove us off. They did not appear to enjoy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a crocodile river.

Swarms of fireflies, which gathered on favourite trees, made a very Christmas-like effect with their throbbing lights. They were lovely, too, in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling reflections in the black river stream. Watching them we could almost forget our troubles.

Finally, after much winding round and backing off, we turned a bend and saw a line of little twinkling lights strung along the shore and on floating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect and showing us the town by their reflection. Landing, we walked across the grassy square to the provincial building, with its open courtyards, where there was to be a ball. We danced a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the Governor General, who liked to show his interest in these functions, of which the Filipinos think so much. There were three bands, which vied with each other for applause.

Next morning we got away early on our last leg for Manila and the end of our never-to-be-forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm--that far-away, unfamiliar country where your head gets full of strange thoughts, your body of queer feelings, and your heart has great longings.

We crowded everything we could into those few last days in Manila, for we were loath to think of leaving anything undone. Besides packing and shopping, there were teas and dinners, and the army and navy reception. This was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled with trees which were hung with dim lanterns. The good looking officers with their white duck uniforms and brass buttons added to the attractiveness of the scene. The men of our party were even busier than we, for they had several banquets to which we were not invited. In my husband's journal I find the chronicle of a typical day. After describing the events of a busy morning, he says: "In the afternoon, there was a reception to meet the constabulary, at four; the opening of the new hospital, a most complete and wonderful one, at half after four; the laying of the corner stone at five for the new hotel, which is a very ambitious project and will make all the difference in the world as far as touring in the Philippines is concerned; in the evening, a dinner, and after that a reception, and a dance."

Manila seemed more picturesque, and to have even more atmosphere, as I came to know it better. The old walls and churches and plazas and corners and quarters; the Pasig with its cascos and bancas plying about; the narrow streets winding through the suburbs, with old moss-covered walls, and peeps of tangled gardens within, and balustraded terraces, and the bowers of the pink blossoming "chain of love." It is indeed well-named the Pearl of the Orient.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

ATKINSON, F. W.: The Philippine Islands

ALEXANDER, MARY C.: The Story of Hawaii

ALEXANDER, W. D.: Brief History of the Hawaiian People

AMERICAN GIRL, AN: Seven Weeks in Hawaii

BANCROFT, HUBERT H.: The New Pacific

BRIGGS, CHARLES W.: Progressive Philippines

BLAIR, EMMA H.: The Philippine Islands

BARRON, DAVID: History of the Philippines

BISHOP, ISABELLA L.: The Hawaiian Archipelago

BLACKMAN, WILLIAM F.: The Making of Hawaii

COAN, TITUS: Life in Hawaii

COAN, T. M.: Climate of Hawaii

---- Hawaiian Ethnography

CASTLE, WILLIAM R., JR.: Hawaii Past and Present

CHAMBERS, H. E.: Constitutional History of Hawaii

CROW, CARL: America and the Philippines

CHAMBERLIN, FREDERICK: The Philippine Problem

DAUNCEY, MRS. CAMPBELL: The Philippines

DEVENS, JOHN B.: An Observer in the Philippines

DAY, MRS. E. F.: Princess of Manoa

EMERSON, N. B.: Unwritten Literature of Hawaii

FEE, MARY H.: A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines

FOREMAN, J.: The Philippine Islands

FORNANDER, ABRAHAM: The Polynesian Race

HAWAIIAN ANNUAL for 1915

HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, Report of Commission of Agriculture and Forestry

HAWAII, a Primer--answers to queries

HITCHCOCK, C. H.: Hawaii and its Volcanoes

JERNEGAN, PRESCOTT F.: A Short History of the Philippines

JORDAN AND EDERMANN: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS: List of books on Hawaii

LINDSEY, FORBES: The Philippines

LE ROY, JAMES A.: Philippine Life in Town and Country

---- Americans in the Philippines

LAWRENCE, MARY S.: Old Time Hawaiians and their Wok

LYMAN, H. M.: Hawaiian Yesterdays

MOSES, MRS. M. E. B.: Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife

MAUS, L. M.: An Army Officer on Leave in Japan

MUSICK, JOHN R.: Hawaii: our New Possession

MATHER, HELEN: One Summer in Hawaii

ROBINSON, ALBERT G.: The War and the People

STODDARD, C. W.: South-sea Idyls

SAWYER, FREDERICK H.: The Inhabitants of the Philippines

STEVENS, J. E.: Yesterdays in the Philippines

TAFT, MRS. WILLIAM H.: Recollections of Full Years

WESTERVELT, W. E.: Legends of Old Honolulu

WORCESTER, DEAN C.: The Philippines, Past and Present

WILLIAMS, D. R.: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission

YOUNG, LUCIEN: The Real Hawaii

INDEX

A

Agriculture and Forestry, Bureau of, 99

Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-196, 199, 204

Aldecoa and Company, 265

Alden, C. S. (quoted), 71

Alexander Young Hotel, 20

Amburayan, 270

Anderson, General Thomas, 72, 145, 180, 187, 192
Captain Tom, 145, 296

Andrews, Louis, 62

Antipolo, 320

Apayao, 270

Archbishop of Manila, 166

Armstrong, Fort, 25
General, 62

Army and Navy Club, 146, 296

Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-217, 236

Asturia, Governor, 351

Atimonan, 307, 308

Augustinian Church, 129

B

Babuyan Islands, the, 261

Baginda, Raja, 326

Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345, 348

Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251, 253, 272

Bahr, Abu, 326

Balangiga, 317

Balintan Channel, 268

Bancoran, 353, 357

Bandholtz, General, 309

Barry, Lieutenant, 340

Bashee Rocks, 261, 262

Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264, 269

Bates, General, 198

Bauang, 247

Bautilan, 328

Bay, Lake of, 131

Beacom, Major, 335

Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs., 16

Benguet, 270
Road, 247, 249

Berger, Captain, 14, 74

Biacnabato, 174
Treaty of, 175

Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241, 242, 313

Bill of Rights, 58

Bingham, Hiram, 10

Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72
Hon. Charles R., 12
Museum, 11

Black Crook, 249

Blayney, Professor Thomas
Lindsey (quoted), 220

Boca Chica, 123

Boca Grande, 178

Bohol, 318

Boki, Chief, 10

Bolinao Light, 274

Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174

Bontoc, 229, 236, 270, 287-289

Book, Captain, 16

Botel Tobago, 262

Brent, Bishop, 132

Brigham, Professor, 11

_Britannia_, the, 51

Bryan, William Jennings, 199, 206-207

Bud Dajo, 350

Buencamino, 183

C

Cagayan, 131

Calkins, Mr., 309

Capiz, 360

Carter, General W. H., 26
Charles L., 78
George R., 78, 79
Mr. George, 5

Castle, Mr., 4, 14, 112
Mrs., 14

_Castilla_, the, 179

Catbalogan, 317

Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179, 181, 182, 204

Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322

Celebes Sea, 340

Cervantes, 283, 284

Charcca, the, 317

_Charleston_, the, 269

Chinese, the (in the Philippines), 159

Chino Charlie, 352

Cleghorn, Governor, 15

Cleveland, President, 77

College of Medicine and Surgery, 141

Commission, the (first), 207
Commission, the second (or Taft), 207, 209-211, 215, 216, 219

Constabulary Band, 125, 137

Cook, Captain (James), 35, 37, 48, 49, 114, 115, 150

Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296

Cotobato (river), 340
town, 341

Cotton, Captain, 16

Cromer, Lord, 221

_Crook_, the, 273, 274

Culion, 232-235

D

Dalupiri, 265

Damien, Father, 72

Dampier, William, 152, 262, 327

Darrach, Marshall, 139

Data, Mount, 285

Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22

Davis, Isaac, 50

DeRussy, Fort, 25

Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184, 186, 192
(quoted), 190

_Dewey_, the (dock), 273

Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25

Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of War), 20, 125, 126, 127, 131, 136, 139,
145, 146, 232, 252, 272, 273, 277, 278, 279, 295, 299, 325, 337, 341
Mrs., 125, 127, 136, 139, 140, 145, 251, 252, 308, 336

Din, Alimund, 328

Ditch Trail, 107

Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8
Sanford B., 8, 9, 16, 77-79

Dominis, John C., 76

Doyle, Sergeant, 278

Drake, Sir Francis, 151

Duvall, General, 146, 273
Mrs., 146

E

Early, 275

Education, Bureau of, 248

Edwards, General, 131, 272, 300

El Chico de Cagayan River, 287

El Fraile, 178

Emerson (quoted), 42

Emma, Queen, 65, 66

Escolta, the, 130

Ethnology, Bureau of, 141

F

"Father Alexander," 106

"Filipino Republic," the, 190

Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171, 183, 185-189, 193, 195-196, 201, 215,
219, 222, 241, 245, 298, 342

Finch, Captain, 3

Forbes, Governor General Cameron, 125, 127, 131, 139, 212-215, 221,
239, 243, 248, 272, 276, 277, 283, 317, 361

Fornander, A. (quoted), 42

Frear, Judge Walter F., 80

French Frigatis Shoal, 66

Funston (General), 25, 199

Furness, Dr., 4

G

Gallman, 275, 280

Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254

Gimbungen (dato), 342

Government Dormitory for Girls, 140

Government Laboratories, Bureau of, 141

Green Lake, 112

Gridley, Captain, 3, 179

Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262

H

Halawa, 63

Haleakala, 107

Halemaumau, 60, 110

Hanalei River, 115

Harrison, Governor General, 212, 213, 219

Hauula, 103

Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82
Republic of, 78

Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company, 81

Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29

Heiberg, Major, 343

Heiser, Dr., 221, 230-232, 234-236, 323

Hilgard, Captain, 251

Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110, 112

Hina, 35

Hoapili, 62

Honaunau, 113

Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21, 25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103, 104, 181

Hualalai, 113

I

Iao Valley, 107

Ide, H. C., 208

Ifugao, 270
Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-283, 289, 293

Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277, 286, 288-290, 294, 337

Ilocanos, the, 275

Iloilo, 357-358

Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259

Immigration, Bureau of, 100

Inter-Island Navigation Company, 104
boats, 112

Internal Revenue, Bureau of, 221

Iraya, Mt., 269

Irwin, Mr., 4

Isabella II, Queen, 164

Isola Grande, 273, 274

Itbayat Island, 265

Iwahig River, 240

Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156

J

Japanese-American Citizens' Association, 116

Japanese (women laborers), 83-85
as Hawaiians, 116-118

Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166

John Hay, Camp, 248, 251

Jones Bill, the, 222

Jota, the, 317

K

Kaawaloa, 114

Kahanamoku, Duke, 91

Kahului, 102

Kailua, 53, 114

Kaiulani, Princess, 77

Kakuhihewa, 6

Kalaimoku, 56

Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81, 118
Prince, 118

Kalamba, 131, 204

Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah Kuhio, 79

Kalanikupule, 22

Kalinga, 270

Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-292

Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103

Kamehameha I (the Great), 6, 11, 22, 48, 50-54, 106
heiau of, 112
birthplace of, 114

Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57

Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57, 59, 65

Kamehameha IV, 65

Kamehameha V, 72

Kamehameha, Fort, 25

Kamehameha School, 12

Kamehamehas, the, 31

Kanaloa, 34, 39

Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42

Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74

Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173

Kau, 112, 113

Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115

Kawaiahao Church, 9

Kawaihae, 112

Keanonako, 12, 13

Keawe-Mauhili, 60

Keithley, Camp, 325, 334

Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109, 112

Kinau, 12

Kohala, 114
ditch, 114

Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114

Konia, 12

Kotta, 297

Koxinga, 158

Ku, 39

Kuhio, Prince, 118

L

_Lackawanna_, the, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71

Ladrone Islands, the, 116, 150

Lahaina, 106

Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49

Lamb, Mr., 240, 244
Mrs., 244

Lanao, Lake, 325, 334

Lawton, General, 195

Legarda, Mr., 131, 298

Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de, 152, 153, 158
Legaspi, 317

Lepanto, 270

Liholiho, 56

Liliuokalani, Queen, 9, 12, 75-78

Li Ma Hong, 156

Lono, 39, 49

Los Banos, 131

Lucena, 298, 302, 307

Lunalilo Home, 12
Prince, 73

Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185

Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196, 198, 245, 257, 261, 271, 275, 297

M

MacArthur, General, 194, 196, 198

Macfarlane, Mrs., 15

Macomb, General M. M., 25

Magellan, 150, 151

Makadum, 326

Makapuu Point Light, 21

Malabang, 340

Malacañan, Palace of, 126, 136

Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326

Malolos, 191, 195

Mandi, Dato, 346

Mangyans, 241

Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156, 157, 159, 160, 166, 171, 173, 186,
193, 199, 222, 227, 249, 314, 315, 328
sight-seeing in, 128-147, 361-362

Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157, 178
Battle of, 177, 184

Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315

Manilibang, Dato, 337

Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345

_Marian_, the, 16

Mariveles, 123

Marshall Islands, 116

Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51, 62, 81, 82, 106
East, 107
demi-god, 35, 40

Mauna Kea, 108

Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113

Mayon, Mount, 308

_McCulloch_, the, 178

McKimmon, Father, 314

McKinley, Fort, 132, 220
President, 183, 200, 207, 209

Menehunes, the, 116

Merritt, General, 183, 192

Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157, 204
Mexicans, 192

Midway Island (Brooks), 67, 69, 70, 123

Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322, 325-327, 331, 339, 340

Mines, Bureau of, 141

Mirador, 253

Mitchell, Major, 266

Moanalua, 25

Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105

Montojo, Admiral, 179

Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209, 222, 241, 245, 322, 325-339, 341, 342,
345-348, 350-352

Moro Province, 346

Moses, Professor, 208

Mountain Province, the, 270, 288

Musick (quoted), 18

N

Namaka, 23

Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351

Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257

_Negros_, the, 295
island of, 359

Neumann, Paul, 15

"Noli Me Tangere" ("The Social Cancer"), 170

Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184

Nueva Viscaya, 258

Nuuanu, battle of, 22
valley, 23, 51

O

Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51, 52, 82, 88, 103, 119
College, 8, 9

Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55

Ocampo, Pablo, 204

"Occupation Day," 296

Olongapo, 273

_Olympia_, the, 4, 178, 179

Osmeña, Mr., 298

Otis, General, 192, 194, 198

Overton, Camp, 325

P

Paahana, 93

Paao, 31, 37

Pack, Governor, 200

Pagsanjan, 131

Paki, 12

Pakuanui, 23

Palawan, 239, 240, 357

Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103

Panama Canal, 100, 119

Panay, 357, 359

Papa, 5, 30

Parker, Sam, 15

Pasig River, 127, 128, 225

Patterson, Admiral, 160

Paulet, Lord George, 61

Payne Bill, 358

Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32

Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110

Perkins, Commodore, 71

Pershing, General, 349

_Philadelphia_, the, 16

Philip II, 151

Philip III, 177

Philip V, 328

Philippine General Hospital, 141

Piang, Dato, 326, 342

Pili, 31

Pinkham, Governor, 80

Plaza McKinley, 129

Poison God, the, 105

Polo Club, 131

Polynesia, 30, 39, 40

Polynesians, 29, 30

Puerto Princessa, 240

Punahou, 8

Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103

Q

Queen's Hospital, 9, 65

Quezon, Mr., 298, 301

R

Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73, 81, 100

_Reina Christina_, the, 179

Reynolds, Captain William, 69

Rivera, Primo de, 175

Rizal, 131, 170-172

Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318, 322, 343, 354, 358

Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269

Root, Elihu, 300

Royal Hawaiian Band, 14, 74

Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6

Ruger, Fort, 25

Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company, 308

Ruth, Princess, 81

S

Sacaluran, Dato, 347

_Saginaw_, the, 71

Samar, 317

Sandwich Islands, 49

San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231

San Mateo, 195

San Miguel, 130

Santa Cruz, 195

Santa Maria Cristina, 334

Santiago, Fort, 172

Sargent, Major, 340

School of Arts and Trades, the, 312

Science, Bureau of, 141, 142, 353

Seaman's Act, 86

Sepulchre, Padre, 286

Sewall, Mr., 16

Shafter, Fort, 25

Shark King (story of), 45-47

Sibley, Miss, 133

Sicard, Lieutenant-Commander, 71

Sokabe, Rev. S. (quoted), 117

Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167, 168, 175, 218

Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81

Stevens, Mr. (Minister to Hawaii), 76

Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted), 24

Strong, Dr. Richard P., 229

Subig Bay, 178, 273

Suez Canal, the, 156, 164

Sugar Planters' Association, 99

Sulu, 326, 350
Sea, 322, 353
Sultan of, 326

Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata, 320

T

Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-209

Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139, 165, 167

Tagudin, 274, 276, 295

Talbot, Lieutenant, 71

Tantalus, Mt., 19

Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67

Thomas, Admiral, 61

_Times_, the Manila, 216, 349

Tingians, the, 256, 257

Tobaco, 309

Topside, 249

Trail and Mountain Club, 103

Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762), 159
1899, 206, 207

Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105

V

Vancouver, Captain George, 50, 51

Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151

Visayas, the, 176

W

Wahaula (temple of), 37

Wahiawa, 103

Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98

Waianae, 82

Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25, 103

Wailuku, 106

Waimanu (valley), 115

Waimea, 115
Gulch, 115

Waipio (valley), 115

Wakea, 4, 5, 30

Wekolo Pond, 32

Welles, Mr., 67

White, Dr., 253

Whitmarsh, Mrs., 250
Mr., 251

Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82

Wilcox, Robert W., 73
rebellion, 73

Wilder, Mrs., 15

Wilson, President, 79, 212

Wisser, General J. P., 26

Wood, General, 325

Worcester, Mr. Dean C., 141, 142, 208, 213, 218, 228, 248, 272, 286, 300
(quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257, 292, 348, 356

Wright, Luke E., 208

Y

Ynock, 342

Yongs, Mr., 160

Young, Captain Lucien, 74

Young, John, 50

Z

Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349

FOOTNOTES:

[1] When the mamo became rare the natives began to substitute the light yellow feathers growing under the wings of the _o-o_. This bird is now extinct.

[2] In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was signed in Grant's administration, there was no reference to Pearl Harbour. It was when the treaty was renewed in a revised form during the administration of President Harrison, that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United States as a naval base.

[3] General M. M. Macomb was in command from 1911 to 1913, General Frederick Funston during 1914, General W. H. Carter followed and General J. P. Wisser is there in command to-day.

[4] Even to a late date this custom has been known in civilized countries. In France a figure of one's enemy was modeled in wax and was slowly melted before the fire while being "prayed to death."

[5] The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane is only one of many Hawaiian creation myths, in which other gods figure as fathers of the human race.

[6] A. Fornander, "The Polynesian Race."

[7] Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson stopped there on his way to the Philippines with the first United States troops. The Spanish governor had not even heard that war was declared, and when the ships fired, he thought it was a salute in his honour. He surrendered the fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in the Treaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany. Guam has an excellent harbour. It is under the control of the United States Navy at present. Marines are stationed there.

[8] The party at present in power in the United States appears to have given very little attention to the Islands, except as a source of income for deserving Democrats, if we may judge from the latest Democratic platform. That document contains the promise, "as soon as practicable, to give a territorial form of government to Hawaii." For eighteen years they have had it!

[9] When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a few months ago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him, though all Hawaii petitioned for him. The position was given to a Democrat.

[10] Castle says Halemaumau really means, "home of the _Maumau_ fern," this fern having a leaf much like the curled and twisted lava in shape.

[11] A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the fertile valley of the Cagayan. The gorge of Pagsanjan is very beautiful. Los Banos is an old bathing establishment not far from Kalamba, where Rizal was born. It is part of a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which was a fashionable resort in days gone by. Now an American military hospital has been built there.

[12] The American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly deserve mention. They were among the best fighters we sent out there.

[13] Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of the Orient at that time. He was the son of a Japanese mother and a Chinese father, and seldom has China had a man to compare with him in courage, enterprise and ability. At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the highest military commands in his country. With his courage and natural ability it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself. Being as shrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaintance of a Dominican friar in Amoy, whom he converted into an ambassador and sent to Manila. Fortunately for the Spaniards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his early death, in 1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as he was making preparations to invade the Philippines.

[14] To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly "reconstructed rebel," as this incident told by General Anderson's daughter shows:

"While spending the day with friends who have a sugar estate near Kalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo, Pablo Ocampo and another ilustrado whose name I've forgotten. They had come over from Cavite, where Aguinaldo has his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar machinery. After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I found myself next the former General at lunch. Conversation was difficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Spanish. I timidly asked him in desperation of something to say, if he remembered my father. On learning that he was the first Americano General to fight him, over fifteen years before, he became most interested, and asked very warmly to be remembered. When I told him my father was also retired and settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the real life. I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be lured back to the hazards of political life. He is a modest, quiet, diffident little native of the pure Filipino type. He assured me that his children were making good progress in English and were at school working hard."

[15] After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Rome to arrange the friar land question, he received a remarkable ovation upon his return to the Philippines. When he was appointed Secretary of War, Manila was flooded with posters bearing the words, in various languages, "We want Taft," and such a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to Washington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment. It was not until some time later that it was renewed and Mr. Taft left the Philippines to take his seat in the Cabinet at Washington.

[16] It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class in the Philippines. There are about seventy-five thousand Spanish mestizos and half a million Chinese mestizos.

[17] Any one who is inclined to regret American rule in the Islands is cordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean Worcester's book, "The Philippines, Past and Present."

[18] The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known that it may be interesting to mention it here. The disease, it is said, is carried by marmots. It had not broken out since the fourteenth century, because Manchu hunters had for generations been taught not to kill marmots for this very reason. But in late years, with the great demand for furs, new hunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased marmots and so caused an epidemic.

[19] The name "Bashee," originally applied to the Batan Islands, was derived from an intoxicating drink of that name made from sugar-cane and berries. It is still used very liberally, especially on all festal occasions. When Dampier's ships first touched these shores the _Bashee_ was highly regarded by these ancient mariners.

[20] Although we think of Japanese territory as far away from ours, here it approaches within sixty miles, as I have said, and within twenty-four miles of Guam the Japanese have lately occupied the former German islands of the Mariana group. In Bering Straits we are within three miles of Russian territory. There are two islands, the Diomedes, in the center of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia and the other by the United States. We usually consider both Japan and Russia very far off, but their possessions are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and Mexico.

[21] An interesting passage from Worcester describes this Kalinga dance with more detail:

"Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his best clothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bearing the shield, lance and head-ax used in the recent fights. Behind him there creeps along the ground a strange, shrinking figure, clad in soiled garments, with a dirty cotton blanket pulled over its head. The hero attracts attention to himself by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so much as the yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon. He then begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial voice, the tone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive of those of a Japanese actor. With word and gesture he describes his recent exploit, using the shrinking figure beside him as a dummy to represent his fallen foe. When he stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their clangour ceases he resumes his narrative. After concluding his pantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes and boasts of previous achievements. Incidentally he indulges in high stepping and high jumping and displays deadly skill in the manipulation of his weapons. The crowd grows even more excited and, during the intervals while the ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its monotonous war cry. Finally when his voice has grown hoarse and his muscles are tired, the principal actor retires and another takes his place. As darkness comes on, a blazing fire is lighted within the cañao circle.

"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who participated in the recent fight are succeeded by the old men, who have been kept at home by the burden of years and infirmities. Strong drink has caused the dying fire in their veins to flare up for the moment. Each of them has a history of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount. The crowd already knows his story by heart, and when the forgetfulness of age or that of intoxication causes him to falter, prompts him and shouts with laughter at the joke.

"Gradually the _basi_ begins to exert its stupefying effect; but so long as the music and dancing, and the shouting continue every one manages to keep awake. At last, food is passed, and in the interval during which it is being consumed the liquor gets a fair chance to work. As the east begins to glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in their places, or hasten to their homes, and the cañao ends, for the time being at least."

[22] It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East that the fine code of laws which we have given the Philippines was drafted by our great statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid of some suggestions from Mr. Worcester.

[23] I have taken a few remarks from several speeches.

[24] The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experienced mountain climbers. The vista from the summit is said to surpass even the famous view from Mt. Ætna.

[25] The Santo Niño of Cebu has a famous rival in the village of Antipolo where "Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages" is found. This image was brought to the Islands in 1626 by the Spanish government. It is said the Virgin has crossed the Pacific eight times to and from Mexico and each time "calmed a tempest."

[26] This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.

[27] Worcester writes in regard to fishing: "There are barracudas of seven different species, some of which attain a length of six feet and weigh a hundred pounds or more. Bonitos of four different species have been taken, and afford fine sport. Croakers and groupers (locally known as _lapu-lapu_) are found in great variety. Hardtails and leather-jacks, commonly called _dorados_, are also very abundant. They take the spoon freely and fight well. There are also several species of mackerel and _pampano_, which are excellent table fish; and snappers, of which we have thirty-four known species. The large red snappers fight well. Sea-bass of two distinct species are common. Specimens weighing fifty to seventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets. The largest specimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed three hundred thirty-four and a fourth pounds.

"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during the cooler months. Tarpons up to five feet in length may be taken at the proper season, off the mouths of large streams. The species are distinct from that found in Atlantic waters, and the young take the fly freely.

"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools during the winter months. The natives call them _cachareta_."