Chapter I: Part 1

_The Stag Cook Book_

_C. MAC SHERIDAN_

THE STAG COOK BOOK

_WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN_

COLLECTED AND EDITED

_by_

C. MAC SHERIDAN

_With an Introduction by_
ROBERT H. DAVIS

NEW YORK
GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY

COPYRIGHT, 1922,
BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY

THE STAG COOK BOOK, II

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

_Dedicated To_—

THAT GREAT HOST OF BACHELORS AND BENEDICTS ALIKE

who have at one time or another tried to “cook something”;
and who, in the attempt, have weakened under a fire
of feminine raillery and sarcasm, only to spoil what,
under more favorable circumstances, would have proved a
chef-d’œuvre.

_“They may live without houses and live without books,”
So the saying has gone through the ages,
“But a civilized man cannot live without cooks—”
It’s a libel, as proved by these pages!
For when left by himself in a small kitchenette,
With a saucepan, a spoon and a kettle,
A man can make things that you’ll never forget—
That will put any cook on her mettle._

_Where camp fires glow through the still of the night,
Where grills are electric and shiny,
Where kitchens are huge, done in tiling of white,
Where stoves are exceedingly tiny,
Where people are hungry—no matter the place—
A man can produce in a minute
A dish to bring smiles to each skeptical face,
With art—and real food value—in it!_

_At range and at oven, at (whisper it!) still,
A man is undoubtedly master;
His cooking is done with an air and a skill,
He’s sure as a woman—and faster!
He may break the dishes and clutter the floor,
And if he is praised—he deserves it—
He may flaunt his prowess until he’s a bore....
But, Boy, what he serves—when he serves it!_

INTRODUCTION

By ROBERT H. DAVIS

Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not a gift. In combination a grace is developed. No great culinary triumph was ever perfected by accident.

Charles Lamb’s essay on roast pig was responsible for a tidal wave of burnt pork that swept over England in the nineteenth century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry empire to the belief that only through an act of incendiarism could a suckling porker be converted into a delicacy; whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of roast pork, golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only in the oven.

Lucullus, the good Roman gourmet, had his meals cooked in a mint. He required that his masterpieces be served on gold and silver and crystal, and spread on a table of lapis lazuli. The sauces compiled for him were worth more than the food upon which they were poured. He was the high priest of extravagance and luxury. A single meal stood him a fortune. He had more regard for the cost than for the cooking. It is said that his death was hastened by dyspepsia.

* * * * *

In the early seventies a French nobleman, living in the neighborhood of Barbizon, was found seated at the table with his face in a plate of soup. Because of the fact that a butcher knife had been inserted via the back between his fourth and fifth rib on the left side, he was quite dead. Clues led nowhere. It became one of the mysteries.

Long afterward an old man tottered into the office of the Prefect and announced that he wished to make a confession.

“Proceed,” said the official.

“’Twas I,” responded the ancient, “who delivered the death stroke to the Duke de la —— thirty-five years ago.”

“What inspired you to make this confession?”

“Pride.”

“I do not comprehend. The details, if you please.”

“By profession I was a chef,” said the self-accused. “The Duke, at a fabulous price, enticed me into his service. His first request was that I make for him a perfect consomme. _Voilà!_ For three days I prepared this perfection. With my own hand I placed before him the soup tureen. With my own hand I ladled it out. He inhaled its divine essence; and then, Your Honor, _he reached for the salt_. _Mon Dieu!_ I destroy him!”

The Prefect embraced the artist and took him out to lunch. Thus art was vindicated and the incident closed. In the chemistry of cooking, “enough is too much.”

* * * * *

The immortals who have contributed recipes to this volume were born with a silver spoon not in their mouths, but in their hands. The cap and apron, not the cap and bells, is the garb in which they perform. Secrets handed down through generations are thrown with a wanton hand on the pages that comprise this volume. Sauces from the south, chowders from New England, barbecued masterpieces from the west, grilled classics from field and stream, ragouts, stews, desserts, dressings are hung within reach of all, like garlic clusters from the rafters of opportunity. Reach up and help yourself.

Be not disturbed by occasional jocund phrases in this symposium. Behind them is probably concealed a savory or a flavor. A long paragraph may conclude with full particulars concerning the architecture of a gastronomic dream. Turn the pages slowly lest you be overwhelmed by the richness of the menu.

* * * * *

The late King Edward, upon bidding the later Carlos of Portugal God-speed back to his native shores, inquired: “By what were you most impressed during your visit to the British Isles?”

“Roast beef,” said Carlos, expanding in ecstasy.

“And what else?” inquired Edward.

“Well,” said Carlos, “the boiled beef wasn’t so damned bad.”

* * * * *

It is one thing to cook food, and another to consume it. This inspired tome is the product of cooks who are not afraid to take their own medicine. The names of many of the dishes catalogued herein lies on the tongues of the mob, but the delicacies themselves do not. This book brings within the reach of all opportunities that up to now have been denied them. Given a first class stove, a few simple ingredients and a copy of this book, hunger can be abolished wherever English is read.

* * * * *

Rossini, the musician, also a chef, after writing the score of _The Barber of Seville_, was informed by the director that a prelude was required immediately. Rossini repaired to his kitchen, cooked himself a perfect dinner, consumed it alone, and went to bed where in a reclining position with score sheets all about him, he wrote a brilliant introduction to his brilliant opera. Suddenly a gust of wind entered unbidden at the window and scattered the precious sheets about the room. Several disappeared through the lattice. Rossini, heavy with the consequences of his culinary genius, re-wrote a fresher and better prelude, tucked it under his corpulent person and rolled over for a final nap, after which he hastened to the opera house with his masterpiece. His best work was done on a full stomach.

* * * * *

Brillat-Savarin, author of “Gastronomy as a Fine Art,” rather whimsically names “Gasteria” the tenth and fairest of the Muses. The writers of this book name her as the first.

R. H. D.

CONTENTS

_PART ONE: CONTRIBUTORS_

PAGE
I _Meredith Nicholson_ 31
WABASH VALLEY STEAK

II _Rex Beach_ 34
ONION CLAM CHOWDER

III _Hudson Maxim_ 35
SPAGHETTI

IV _Warren G. Harding_ 36
WAFFLES

V _Ellis Parker Butler_ 31
BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN

VI _Jules J. Jusserand_ 38
RADISH SALAD

VII _Bruce Barton_ 39
RICE PUDDING

VIII _Richard Bennett_ 40
LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER

IX _Walt Louderback_ 41
CORN CHOWDER

X _Captain Robert A. Bartlett, U.S.A._ 42
COD FISH

XI _George F. Worts_ 43
SWEET POTATO PONE

XII _Gelett Burgess_ 45
PANDOWDY

XIII _William Allen White_ 46
VEGETABLE SALAD

XIV _Irvin S. Cobb_ 48
HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS (PADUCAH STYLE)

XV _Richard Walton Tully_ 49
HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA “THE BIRD OF PARADISE”

XVI _William Johnston_ 51
OYSTERS PECHEUR

XVII _Dr. Charles M. Sheldon_ 52
LIKES BREAD AND MILK

XVIII _James Montgomery Flagg_ 53
“JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS”

XIX _Roy L. McCardell_ 54
“EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”

XX _Judge Ben B. Lindsey_ 56
BRAN MUFFINS

XXI _Otis Skinner_ 57
ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO

XXII _Dan Beard_ 58
A BURGOO

XXIII _De Wolf Hopper_ 60
RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE

XXIV _Chick Evans_ 61
TOMATO SOUP

XXV _Joshua A. Hatfield_ 63
EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDER
POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER
COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER
SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER
GARNITURE
FONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDER
POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE Á L’ALEXANDER
ROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDER
ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER
STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER
BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER
ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER

XXVI _Stewart Edward White_ 69
MULLIGAN

XXVII _Oliver Herford_ 70
FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS

XXVIII _Reed Smoot_ 71
PEACH COBBLER

XXIX _Ray Long_ 72
SHAD ROE
DESSERT

XXX _Kenneth C. Beaton_ 73
LOBSTER

XXXI _John Harvey Kellogg, M. D._ 75
MACARONI WITH CHEESE
SAVORY POTATOES

XXXII _Clare Briggs_ 77
WAFFLES

XXXIII _Edward W. Bok_ 78
ASPARAGUS

XXXIV _Charles Hanson Towne_ 80
CORN PUDDING

XXXV _Jerome D. Kern_ 81
TERRAPIN

XXXVI _Daniel Willard_ 82
COTTAGE PUDDING
STRAWBERRY SAUCE

XXXVII _Houdini_ 83
SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED EGGS
THE MUSHROOM DISH
THE EGGS

XXXVIII _Charles P. Steinmetz_ 84
MEAT LOAF

XXXIX _Charlie Chaplin_ 86
STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE

XL _Dr. Frank Crane_ 87
ROUND STEAK

XLI _Robert H. Davis_ 89
CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE

XLII _John A. Dix_ 90
FRIED TROUT

XLIII _Guy Bates Post_ 91
LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR, THE TENTMAKER”

XLIV _Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde_ 93
SANCOCHO
YAPINGACHO

XLV _Bide Dudley_ 95
TOMATO SOP

XLVI _William Hale Thompson_ 96
ROAST BEEF

XLVII _Booth Tarkington_ 97
CORN FLAKES

XLVIII _T. A. Dorgan_ 98
CHILÏ CON CARNE

XLIX _William de Leftwich Dodge_ 99
RAGOUT DE MOUTON

L _Montague Glass_ 100
BOUILLABAISSE

LI _John Philip Sousa_ 103
PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE
SPAGHETTI

LII _Will Hays_ 105
CHICKEN PILAU

LIII _Frank Ward O’Malley_ 106
RUM-TUM-TIDDY

LIV _Charles Evans Hughes_ 108
CORN BREAD

LV _Walter Prichard Eaton_ 109
MINCE PIE
THE FILLING

LVI _W. T. Benda_ 113
POLISH SPECIALTIES
BARSHCK WITH USHKA
USHKA
BURACHKI

LVII _Captain Edward A. Salisbury_ 118
SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI
EGGS Á LA SALISBURY
FISH Á LA COMMODORE
TO COOK TROUT
VENISON STEAK
GOOSE
A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING
DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL
TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL
BEANS
ITALIAN RICE
STEAK SAUCE

LVIII _Thomas H. Ince_ 126
CHICKEN HALIBUT
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN
RICE Á LA MANHATTAN

LIX _George Ade_ 128
“SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS

LX _Lyman Abbott_ 130
DEEP APPLE PIE

LXI _Terry Ramsaye_ 131
LETTUCE (Á LA RED CREEK)

LXII _R. L. (Rube) Goldberg_ 133
HASH

LXIII _Channing Pollock_ 134
CORN BREAD

LXIV _Hussein Kahn Alai_ 135
CHIRIN POLOW

LXV _William J. Bryan_ 138
FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS

LXVI _Will Irwin_ 139
HAM AND EGGS

LXVII _Douglas Fairbanks_ 140
BREAD TART

LXVIII _Julian Street_ 141
SOLE Á LA MARGUERY AND DUCK WITH ORANGES
SOLE Á LA MARGUERY
DUCK BIGARADE

LXIX _S. S. McClure_ 143
OMELETTE—AND PIE

LXX _Basil King_ 145
LOBSTER Á LA KING

LXXI _John A. Moroso_ 146
SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG

LXXII _F. X. Leyendecker_ 148
VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO
VOL AU VENT FINANCIÉRE

LXXIII _Eddie Cantor_ 150
BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCE

LXXIV _Frazier Hunt_ 151
STUFFED CELERY

LXXV _Wm. Slavins McNutt_ 152
ORANGE COMPOTE

LXXVI _Stephen Vincent Benet_ 154
ZITELLI’S MACARONI STEW

LXXVII _James R. Quirk_ 155
TOMATO WIGGLE

LXXVIII _Charles W. Eliot_ 156
A FAVORITE MENU

LXXIX _H. S. Cumming_ 158
VIRGINIA EGG BREAD

LXXX _Joseph Santley_ 159
COCOA CREAM CAKE

LXXXI _A. Hamilton Gibbs_ 160
SQUAB EN CASSEROLE

LXXXII _Richard Barthelmess_ 161
SPICED GRAPES

LXXXIII _Don Juan R. y Gayangos_ 162
EGG PLANT AU GRATIN

LXXXIV _Samuel G. Blythe_ 163
TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN Á LA ROY CARRUTHERS

LXXXV _Charles H. Taylor_ 165
CLAM CHOWDER

LXXXVI _Cyrus H. K. Curtis_ 167
BAKED BEANS

LXXXVII _Frederic Arnold Kummer_ 169
SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE

LXXXVIII _Albert D. Lasker_ 170
CHICKEN PAPRIKA

LXXXIX _Henry Van Dyke_ 171
FISH CHOWDER

XC _Macklyn Arbuckle_ 172
SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN”

XCI _John Taintor Foote_ 174
MORELS SAUTÉ

XCII _Maurice Francis Egan_ 176
A DIPLOMATIST’S RECEIPT FOR WELSH RABBIT

XCIII _Livingston Farrand_ 178
SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKES

XCIV _F. Ziegfeld, Jr._ 179
LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS

XCV _Harold Lloyd_ 181
LEMON LAYER CAKE

XCVI _Luther Burbank_ 183
TURKEY Á LA BURBANK

XCVII _Raymond McKee_ 185
TO COOK RABBITS

XCVIII _Will Deming_ 187
VIRGINIA HAM
LEMON PIE
A DRESSING

XCIX _Charles W. Chessar_ 189
TIPS ON STEAKS

C _Arthur T. Vance_ 191
SALADE Á LA TURC
PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING
WELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSON

CI _Baron de Cartier_ 195
WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE

CII _Dean Cornwell_ 197
SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE

PART TWO: RECIPES

BREADS—MUFFINS—WAFFLES—ETC.
BRAN MUFFINS 56
BREAD AND MILK 52
CORN BREAD 108, 134
CORNFLAKES 97
GRIDDLE CAKES 178
SWEET POTATO PONE 43
VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 158
WAFFLES 36, 77

EGG DISHES
DEVILED EGGS 83
EGGS Á LA SALISBURY 119
EGGS “MUSHROOMETTE” 54
EGGS USED WITH ASPARAGUS 79
HAM AND EGGS 139
OMELETTE 143
POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE A L’ALEXANDER 65

SOUPS—MULLIGANS—BOUILLABAISSE
BARSHCK 113
BARSHCK WITH USHKA 113
BEAN SOUP 124
BURGOO, A 58
BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN 37
BOUILLABAISSE 100
CORN CHOWDER 41
CLAM CHOWDER 165
FISH CHOWDER 171
MULLIGAN 69
ONION CLAM CHOWDER 34
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 126
SANCOCHO 93
TOMATO SOUP 61
WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE 195

FISH—OYSTERS—LOBSTER—ROE—ETC.
BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER 67
CHICKEN HALIBUT 126
COD FISH 42
COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER (FOR COLD SALMON) 64
FISH Á LA COMMODORE 119
FRIED TROUT 90
HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA BIRD OF PARADISE 49
LOBSTER Á LA KING 145
LOBSTER (K C B) 73
OYSTERS PECHEUR 51
“SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS 128
SHAD ROE 72
SOLE Á LA MARGUERY 141
STEAMED CLAMS 97
TROUT, TO COOK 120

FOWL (DOMESTIC AND WILD)
CHICKEN PAPRIKA 170
CHICKEN PILAU 105
CHIRIN POLOW (PERSIAN) 135
DUCK BIGARADE 142
DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL 122
ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 68
GOOSE, THE BEST WAY TO COOK 121
LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS 179
SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN” 172
SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 160
SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 64
SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER GARNITURE 65
TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL 123
TURKEY Á LA BURBANK 183

MEATS—MEAT DISHES AND SAUCES

CHILI CON CARNE 98
CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE 89
HASH—A NEW METHOD 133
HAM AND EGGS 139
HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS 48
HORSERADISH SAUCE 150
LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR THE TENT MAKER” 91
MEAT LOAF 84
PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE 103
RABBIT, TO COOK 185
RAGOUT DE MOUTON 99
ROAST BEEF, TIPS ON COOKING 96
ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER 66
ROUND STEAK—REALLY DELICIOUS 87
SANCOCHO (FROM ECUADOR) 93
SPICED GRAPES 161
STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 86
STEAK SAUCE 125
STEAK, TIPS ON 189
TERRAPIN 81
TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN 163
USHKA (POLISH) 114
VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO 148
VOL AU VENT FINANCIÈRE 149
VENISON STEAK 120
VIRGINIA HAM 31
WABASH VALLEY STEAK 187

VEGETABLES AND THE LIKE

ARTICHOKES MISTER ANTONIO 57
ASPARAGUS 78
BEANS (VARIOUS STYLES) 123, 167
BURACHKI (POLISH) 117
EGGPLANT AU GRATIN 162
EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDER 63
FRENCH FRIED ONIONS 138
ITALIAN RICE 124
MORELS SAUTÉ 174
POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER 63
RICE Á LA MANHATTAN 127
SAVORY POTATOES 75
“SCOLLOPED” MUSHROOMS 83
TOMATO SOP 95
TURNIP GREENS 48
YAPINGACHO (FROM ECUADOR) 94

SPAGHETTI—MACARONI—ETC.
MACARONI STEW, ZITELLI’S 154
MACARONI WITH CHEESE 75
SPAGHETTI 35
SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE 169
SPAGHETTI FOR-THE-GANG 146
SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 197
SPAGHETTI SAUCES 118, 146, 154
SPAGHETTI WITH PELOTAS 103

SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS
DRESSING (FOR STUFFED TOMATOES, COLD MEAT, POTATO SALAD) 188
LETTUCE Á LA RED CREEK 131
A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING 122
PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING 192
RADISH SALAD 38
ROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDER 66
SALADE Á LA TURC 191
VEGETABLE SALAD 46

DESSERTS—CAKES—PIES—PUDDINGS

BREAD TARTS 140
COCOA CREAM CAKE 159
CORN PUDDING 80
COTTAGE PUDDING WITH STRAWBERRY SAUCE 82
DEEP APPLE PIE 130
DESSERT, A 72
FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS 70
INDIAN PUDDING 156
JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS 53
LEMON LAYER CAKE 181
LEMON PIE 187
MINCE-PIE 109
ORANGE COMPOTE 152
PEACH COBBLER 71
PANDOWDY 45
PIE 143
PIE CRUST 111, 144
RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE 60
RICE PUDDING 39
STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER 67

CHEESE AND CHEESE DISHES
CELERY STUFFED WITH CHEESE 151
FONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDER 65
LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER 40
RUM-TUM-TIDDY 106
TOMATO WIGGLE 155
WELSH RABBIT (A DIPLOMATIST’S RECIPE) 176
WELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSON 193

THE STAG COOK BOOK

“This dish of meat is too good for
any but anglers, or very honest men.”
IZAAK WALTON.

I

_Meredith Nicholson_

WABASH VALLEY STEAK

No man can be a hero in his own kitchen. No man with the slightest regard for domestic peace will ever permit his wife to see him cook without having outsiders present. The psychology of this is obvious. Impatient though a woman may be of her husband’s attempts to show that he is a real sport and skilled in all the arts of social entertaining, before guests she is likely to manifest a modest degree of pride in his performances. Or even if slightly contemptuous she is moved to assume a chaffing attitude that adds to the general good feeling. I beg not to be confused with the type of bachelor club man who is a perfect wizard with the chafing dish. I have always viewed those birds with suspicion. Their tricks are few and easy of accomplishment—stunts with mushrooms, or chicken à la king done nonchalantly in a dinner coat. I sing my fiercest hymn of hate of those persons.

My own method is to assume full charge of an orderly kitchen, removing coat and waistcoat, donning an apron and attacking the job without apology or simper or the silly pretense that I’m not sure of the result. Not sure! Except in the case of colored women cooks, who trust to inspiration and achieve miracles without, seemingly, knowing how they do ’em—except, I say, in such instances, cookery is an exact science. If you follow a good rule and know how to regulate the range and have a true eye and acute nose, failure is obliterated from the lexicon.

And now for my scenario, which I stole from a lady, who in turn stole it, I dare say, from some cook book. I might pretend that I invented it, but I didn’t. All I claim is that it offers an Olympian feast—particularly if you can accompany it with hot biscuits, which I admit are beyond my powers.

_The Recipe_

Take a round steak cut two inches thick; and beat a cup of flour into it. Heat a large skillet till it is piping hot with lard covering the bottom about one inch. Put in the steak, cover immediately, and allow it to cook about five minutes, turning once.

Then cover it with a sauce composed in this wise:

Four large tomatoes
Four onions
Four green mango peppers
Four ripe pimentoes

Put through a grinder or better still chop thoroughly with a chopper in a wooden bowl. Don’t skimp on this labor; the chopping must be done conscientiously. Season with salt and pour over the steak; cook slowly for two hours. When done turn into a large platter and serve piping hot.

II

_Rex Beach_

ONION CLAM CHOWDER

To each 10 oz. can of Pioneer Brand Minced Clams use 1 pound of sliced Spanish or white onion.

For a good sized chowder take six large onions (white), and cut in lengths one inch long. Pour the juice from the clams into saucepan, add onions and a little water and boil thoroughly until onions are well cooked and soft. Then add clams which have been taken out of the can and put into a dish, and stew five minutes before onions are done. Next place in a stew pan about a pint of cream or half cream and half milk and let come to a boil. After the clams have been in with the onions for about three minutes pour on the hot milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. If serving in a soup plate, a little chopped parsley adds to the attractiveness of the dish. Then EAT it.

(You can substitute for fresh milk or cream—Carnation Canned Milk diluted—⅔ milk to ⅓ water. The soup should be thick and not too watery. This can be regulated by amount of milk added.)

III

_Hudson Maxim_

SPAGHETTI

Take one package of vermicelli or spaghetti, and put it into a saucepan, crushing it in the hand, then put in hot water, and salt a little more than will suit the taste, and boil for an hour.

While the vermicelli or spaghetti is cooking, take a quart of milk and heat three-quarters—or 24 ounces—of it until it boils. Then stir into the eight ounces of cold milk a level cupful of flour, or two tablespoonfuls of flour, pretty well heaped, and then stir the thickened milk into the boiling milk and cook slowly for ten minutes.

Then add three-quarters of a pound of good, ripe, old American cheese, and about half a pound of butter. Then drain the water off the vermicelli or spaghetti and put in from one and one half pints to a quart of canned tomatoes. Heat the vermicelli or spaghetti to the boiling point; and while the mixture of cheese, butter, milk and flour is still hot, stir the two together, then keep hot and serve hot. Do not boil any more, because further boiling would tend to cause the tomatoes to coagulate the milk in the mixture. I prefer to use a mixture of spaghetti and vermicelli instead of all spaghetti or all vermicelli.

IV

_Warren G. Harding_

WAFFLES

2 eggs
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 pint milk
flour to make thin batter
2 large teaspoons of baking powder

Beat yolks of eggs, add sugar and salt, melt butter, add milk and flour; last just before ready to bake add beaten whites of eggs and baking powder.

Bake on hot waffle iron.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—There is a great deal of argument about the
proper dressing for waffles. Various gravies are used by
one school of waffle eaters; while honey, maple syrup, and
various specially flavored sugar powders are preferred by
another.

President Harding is a staunch upholder of the gravy school
and likes his in the form of creamed chipped beef.

V

_Ellis Parker Butler_

BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN

In a soup kettle put four tablespoonsful of genuine olive oil. When hot enough fry in it two large onions, sliced, and two cloves of garlic chopped. Cut two pounds of any sort of firm white-textured fish into small pieces and put in the kettle, just covering the mixture with warm water.

Now have the Eighteenth Amendment repealed and add to the mixture one cup of White Wine, the juice of half a lemon, two large tomatoes (peeled and cut up), pepper, salt and one or two bay leaves.

Cook this briskly for twelve minutes, by which time the liquor should be one third evaporated. Now add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Joe Tilden added a pinch of saffron, but I don’t care for it. Cook two minutes longer and serve ladled on slices of French bread.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—Moquin’s have made a luncheon specialty of
Bouillabaisse for many years. They add lobster and eel.
Here is a wonderful dish to experiment with—great fun and
delicious results if you try it once or twice. It’s a
habit-forming dish, so beware!

VI

_Jules J. Jusserand_

(Ambassador to the United States from France)

RADISH SALAD

The French ambassador presents his compliments and begs to state that he does not believe that any dish, or food, is more palatable than a salad of radishes, the radishes to be cut in very thin slices and to be seasoned with the usual salad dressing.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—This salad will be at its best if the
foundation, upon which the thin slices of radish are
placed, is made of small crisp leaves of romaine. The usual
dressing—french, of course—is prepared in this way:

To one tablespoonful of lemon or vinegar add three
tablespoonsful of the best olive oil, a dash of black
pepper, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Beat well with a
silver fork, and add enough paprika to give it a ruddy
color, and a rich flavor. If the salad dish is rubbed with
garlic it will do no great harm to the mixture!

VII

_Bruce Barton_

RICE PUDDING

I am president of the S. R. R. R. P.—the Society for Restoration of Raisins to Rice Pudding.

I have made a list of New York hotels and clubs and rated them according to the number of raisins they put in a portion of rice pudding as follows:

Class D—no raisins
Class C—1 raisin
Class B—3 or more raisins
Class A—plenty of raisins

To my mind, rice pudding without raisins is like Hamlet without the eggs.

1 cup rice
4 cups milk
3 eggs
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoonful salt
1 package seedless raisins
1 teaspoon of vanilla

Bake one hour in a hot oven. Set the pan inside of another containing hot water.

Serve with whipped cream and garnish with Dromedary dates.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—Cook the rice twenty-three minutes.

VIII

_Richard Bennett_

LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER

Run around and find a real nice Liederkranz cheese and treat it as follows to get a serving for four people:

Mix the cheese with about a quarter of a pound of butter and work into a fine paste, adding salt, pepper, French mustard, paprika and Worcestershire sauce as you go along. Just add them to taste.

When the paste is smooth put in one finely chopped small green pepper; one small onion, or chives.

Mix well!

And serve on rye bread—spread thick. To be thoroughly technical, I suppose I should have said: spread to taste!

EDITOR’S NOTE:—You can have a wonderful time and make quite
a reputation for yourself by inventing cheese combinations.
Ordinary cream cheese makes a splendid base for original
mixtures. Try combinations of finely minced pimento, celery,
olives, chives and peppers (green and red). And anything
else that promises well.

IX

_Walt Louderback_

CORN CHOWDER

_I believe my favorite recipe is Corn Chowder._

The appetite for this dish must be approached from the windy side of a promontory in early spring with a sixty pound pack between the shoulder blades, aforementioned pack to contain for a couple of congenial souls a pound of bacon, a pound of dry onions, two cans of corn and one large tin of condensed milk.

Cut the bacon up into small half inch squares and start it frying. Simultaneously slice the onions and give them the heat. If, after the aroma from these two begins to permeate the air, you feel like risking their falling into the fire, start boiling the corn and milk. Before the onions are too thoroughly cooked stir them into the bacon, at which time the battle for the supremacy of the appetizing odors is occupying most of your attention.

Now throw the bacon and onions into the corn pot and wait as long as you are able so that the ingredients become thoroughly familiar with one another.

Write me as soon as you get home if you don’t remember that day until you are an old man.

To make this sound extremely professional I suppose I should add, “Season to taste,” but do not mind if a few ashes get mixed in by mistake.

X

_Captain Robert A. Bartlett, U.S.A._

COD FISH

Here is my favorite dish. Viz.:—Fresh Labrador Codfish caught during the Caplin school. The fish is at this time in splendid condition.

Here is the recipe:

Place a small bake pot upon a wood fire; then take a few strips of fat pork, cut up into small pieces and put into the bake pot. When the pork fat has melted you cut the fish into several small pieces and place in the pot. In about twenty minutes the fish is cooked. The fish must be eaten from the pot with a wooden spoon.

XI

_George F. Worts_

SWEET POTATO PONE

There are two sure ways of identifying a true southerner. One of them is to play “Dixie.” Unlike your northerner, or counterfeit southerner who springs to his feet and looks exalted and proud when the band strikes up that swinging anthem, your true, or southern southerner rarely springs. Generally he just sets and waggles one boot, and looks happy or sentimental, according to his nature. That is one way of detecting your true southerner. The second and surer way is to announce in a tremulous voice: “Gemmen, dat potato pone am done set.”

The sweet potato pone is strictly a southern dish. It is served south of the Mason and Dixon line hot and smoking. You don’t need much experience as a cook, although the old rule which also places “perfect” after “practice” of course holds good. Your ninth potato pone will be better than your third. Here is the how:

Grind up raw sweet potatoes in a meat chopper until you have one quart. Mix the grindings thoroughly in a bowl with molasses—enough molasses so the mass is soft and sticky, or spongy.

Mix in a heaping tablespoonful of lard.

Add a teaspoonful of allspice.

Put the mixture in a cake tin and place in a slow oven. Stir constantly until a rich brown hue is attained, then smooth over with a knife or spoon and allow to bake slowly until a mellow brown crust is formed.

Remove from oven, allow to cool slightly, cut in slices and serve. General Robert E. Lee would walk ten miles for a slice of it.

XII

_Gelett Burgess_

PANDOWDY

In a quart pudding dish arrange alternate layers of sliced apples and bits of bread; place on each layer dots of butter, a little sugar, and a pinch each of ground cinnamon, cloves and allspice.

When the dish is filled, pour over it half a cupful each of molasses and water, mixed well; cover the top with bread crumbs.

Place the dish in a pan containing hot water, and bake for three-quarters of an hour, or until the apples are soft.

Serve hot, with cream or any light pudding sauce.

Raisins or chopped almonds are sometimes added.

XIII

_William Allen White_

VEGETABLE SALAD

My idea of good food is a vegetable salad. Any kind of a vegetable salad is good; some are better than others. Here is a recipe for a French dressing on a lettuce salad which you should try on your meat grinder, or your potato masher, or your rolling pin or whatever kitchen utensil you can play.

Get a crisp head of lettuce, discard the outer green leaves, using the inner yellow and white. Wash it thoroughly, and after pulling it apart dry each leaf with a tea towel. Put it in a big bowl—a big mixing bowl, six inches deep anyway. Then set that to one side, and get about as much onion as the end of your first finger would make, if it was chopped off at the second joint. Mince that. Put it in the bottom of a bowl. Take a large tablespoon; put in salt and paprika to taste, and don’t be afraid of making it salty, then add oil and vinegar, about three or four to one, mixing them in the spoon until it slops over into the onion, and then stir the salt and paprika and oil and vinegar down into the bowl of minced onion, taking a salad fork and jabbing it around in the mixture until the onion has been fairly well crushed and the onion flavor permeates the mixed oil and vinegar, and the salt and paprika have become for the moment a part of the mass. Don’t let it stand a second, but pour it quickly into the bowl of dry lettuce, and then stir like the devil. Keep on stirring; stir some more, and serve as quickly as possible.

Cheese may be mashed into the onion before putting on the oil and vinegar and paprika and salt. If one wants to add tomatoes, wait until the last three jabs of the stirring fork into the lettuce, and then quarter the tomatoes and turn them in just before you turn the lettuce over the last two or three times. This is done so that the watery juice of the tomatoes won’t get smeared over the oil on the lettuce leaves. If you stir the tomatoes in early, you get a runny, watery, gooey mess. Cucumbers may be added, and they should be stirred in rather earlier than the tomatoes in the business of mixing the lettuce leaves and the dressing. Green peppers may be added if they are cut into strings, but too much outside fixings spoils the salad for me. The tomatoes are about as far as one can go wisely.

XIV

_Irvin S. Cobb_

HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS

_Paducah Style_

For a person who has written so copiously about food and the pleasures of eating it, I probably know less of the art of preparing it than any living creature. I cannot give my favorite recipe because I have none; but I am glad to give the names of my two favorite dishes, to wit, as follows:

1st—Hog jowl and turnip greens—Paducah style
2nd—Another helping of the same.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—Hog Jowl, Paducah Style, may be prepared like
this:

Get the jowl. Some prefer it cooked and served with the
bone; others remove the bone before serving. Boil it in well
salted water for thirty minutes, then add the turnip greens
and boil at least thirty minutes longer. Serve with plenty
of butter for dressing; a dash of vinegar and a semi-colon
of mustard are used by some folks who are hard to please.

Beet greens could be used but they are not considered au
fait, and to use spinach is an absolute faux pas.

XV

_Richard Walton Tully_

HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA “THE BIRD OF PARADISE”

It was about fifteen years ago that I first visited the Hawaiian Islands in search of material for my play, “The Bird of Paradise,” and during the course of my sojourn I made many friends among the natives, often living weeks at a time with them in out-of-the-way villages. Although their food was radically different from ours in many of its contents and modes of making, it was always palatable, and often strikingly delicious. However, most of the native dishes contained ingredients which we cannot obtain here, but I did learn how to make what some of my friends have nick-named Hawaiian Croquettes à la “Bird of Paradise,” the materials for which are easily procured. And it is a dish so wonderfully appetizing that I constantly prepare it for guests of epicurean tastes.

First grate the meat of half a cocoanut, and add to it a cup of (cow’s) milk, mixing thoroughly, and straining through cloth. Melt two tablespoonsful of butter over a low flame, rubbing into it with the back of a spoon five tablespoonsful of flour, stirring until very smooth. Then add slowly the strained cocoanut and milk liquid, stirring constantly until very thick. Season meanwhile with one and a half teaspoonsful of salt; one of paprika, and one of grated onion. Finally add two cups of cold, boiled, shredded mullet, or any other firm white fish, and two cups of cold, boiled, chopped lobster, and after stirring allow to cool.

Shape into croquettes, or balls, allowing a rounded tablespoonful to each ball; roll in fine cracker crumbs; dip into an egg which has been slightly beaten and to which one-quarter of a cup of water has been added; again roll in cracker crumbs.

Have a deep pan of fat, hot enough to fry a piece of bread a golden brown while you count forty, and cook the croquettes therein for about a minute; then drain on paper, and serve with olives.

XVI

_William Johnston_

OYSTERS PECHEUR

One keg of freshly dredged oysters put on the deck of the schooner not later than eight p. m.

One hundred pounds of ice put on top of the oysters.

Shell and eat at 5 a. m. on the way to the fishing grounds with salt to taste, and occasional draughts of hot coffee.

XVII

_Dr. Charles M. Sheldon_

LIKES BREAD AND MILK

A recipe of my favorite dish is very simple—bread and milk with American cheese broken into it. I eat this dish once a day every day and find it wholesome and nourishing. It does not require any skillful putting together, simply a good appetite and a taste for that sort of provender. If there is an apple pie anywhere around to top it off with, I do not despise that.

I find as a rule that the simpler and more elementary the food, the better so far as the body is concerned. And take it the year around a bowl of milk with fresh bread and rich American cheese, finishing up with “good apple pie like mother used to make,” is all the midday meal I need. I can work on that all the afternoon and feel better than if I had had a seven course dinner.

XVIII

_James Montgomery Flagg_

“JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS”

This is a dessert. When a Swedish cook is put on her mettle to suggest a dessert—something different—she stands a while in uffish thought, then breaks out into a smile of satisfaction and says “Snow Pudding”! It’s Swede law. The Swedes _must_ suggest Snow Pudding when asked for an original thought in the dessert line.

So this dessert of mine was a protest.

There is one very difficult ingredient—wine jelly! The jelly is easy enough, but where in Jell do you get the wine?

If you don’t have wine jelly—it’s all off—no use beginning. If you can get the wine then you put some cut-up oranges in wine jelly with an inch layer of beaten whites of eggs on top and lightly brown this. A loose custard is poured on each helping. It sounds rather punk and ladieshomejournalish but is a perfectly good dessert.

XIX

_Roy L. McCardell_

“EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”

This is the queen of breakfast dishes and should be served, of course, with broiled ham, the king of breakfast dishes, hot buttered toast, and several cups of fresh-made, fragrant and just-strong-enough-to-bring-out-full-flavor, percolated coffee!

_Recipe_

Peel and slice a half pound of fresh mushrooms and cook in butter in old-fashioned frying pan till nearly done. The pan is now good and hot. Moderate the heat and put in three fresh eggs and fry them very slowly, constantly basting top of eggs with the hot butter the mushrooms have been cooking in. Cook well, slowly and thoroughly till all the mushrooms that attach are nestling in the white of the eggs like plums in a pudding. Serve, when thoroughly cooked, with the broiled ham, fresh coffee, and hot buttered toast.

This dish, as here described, is for one person only—as it is too good to be shared with anybody else.

P. S.—Eggs should never be fried so quickly that the whites are cooked to isinglass. Cook them slowly, surely, thoroughly and baste with hot mushroom butter as directed, and you will have Eggs Mushroomette and have eaten a poem!

XX

_Judge Ben B. Lindsey_

BRAN MUFFINS

Judge Lindsey’s favorite recipe is one for Bran Muffins, as follows:

1 pint milk
1 egg
½ pound wheat flour
¾ pound bran flour
2 tablespoonsful molasses
2 ounces pecan meats (½s or ¼s)
2 ounces sugar
2 ounces butter
¼ ounce salt
2 ounces Sultana raisins
1 ounce baking powder

Sufficient for 18 muffins.

Bake 30 minutes in well-heated oven.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—The addition of Pecan meats with the raisins
produces a muffin that—well, the line might better have
ended thus: _produces a muffin_!

XXI

_Otis Skinner_

ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO

Force a small opening in the head of the artichoke by giving it a blow upon the table. Then, into the center pour a dessertspoonful of olive oil in which a little salt and pepper have been mixed. To this add a quarter of a clove of garlic.

Place the artichokes in such position that they may not be overturned. Surround them with cold water, and allow them to boil, covered and undisturbed, for half an hour.

This is an Italian method, and by following it one may understand why an artichoke need not taste as flat as boiled hay.

XXII

_Dan Beard_

A BURGOO

Clean and dress the meat of a soft-shelled turtle, a painted turtle, a poker-dot turtle, or almost any other kind of turtle. Clean and dress a rabbit, a ruffled grouse, moose meat, elk meat, deer meat, sheep meat, in fact any sort of game. Cut your meat into pieces about the size of inch cubes. Save the bones, especially the marrow bones, to put in with the meat. Add some salt pork cut into cubes, if you have it.

If you have been thoughtful enough to supply your outfit with some ill-smelling, but palatable dry vegetables, they will add flavor to your burgoo, put all the material in a kettle, and fill the kettle half full of water. If you have beans and potatoes do not put them in with the meat because they will go to the bottom and scorch. While the stuff you have already put in the kettle is boiling, or simmering, peel your onions and quarter them, scrape your carrots and slice them, peel your potatoes, cut them up into pieces—about inch cubes. After your caldron has commenced to boil dump in the fresh vegetables, they will cool off the water and kill the boil. Do not let it come to a boil again, but put it over a slow fire and allow it to simmer. There should always be enough water to cover the vegetables. A can of tomatoes will add greatly to the flavor. Use no sweet vegetables like beets or sweet potatoes. Put the salt and pepper in just before you take it off the fire. When the burgoo is done, strain it into tin cups. The liquid out of an olive bottle adds greatly to the flavor if you pour it in while the stew is cooking. If you have such luxuries in camp as olives and lemons, a slice of lemon with an olive in each cup over which the liquid is poured makes a dish too good for any old king that ever lived.

The excellence of a burgoo depends upon two things, the materials you have of which to make it and the care you take in cooking it. No two burgoos are alike, and every one I ever tasted was mighty good. Civilized material such as can be purchased at the butcher shop and the vegetable store makes a good soup, but the “goo” isn’t there. Consequently you cannot call it a burgoo.

XXIII

_De Wolf Hopper_

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE, with the assistance of a rich and kindly disposed cow, meaning lacteal fluid on same—that is my chief debauch!

_Recipe_ (_for two people_)

Sift a level teaspoonful of baking powder and a scant half teaspoonful of salt through a cupful of flour. See that the mixture is thorough. Take lard or butter (butter is best) and work it well into the flour until it crumbles under the fingers. Use plenty of finger work. Now add a very small quantity of milk and work into a dough that is easily rolled and flattened on a floured board. Roll out and cut in round cakes to fit cake tins. Have cakes about a half inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven until light golden in color. In serving have lots of berries—half of them—crushed. Split the shortcakes and butter them, if desired. Above all use thick, rich cream in generous doses. The dish is really best when the cakes are just from the oven—instead of cold.

The same goes for strawberry shortcake and makes the only _real genuine old-fashioned shortcake_.

XXIV

_Chick Evans_

TOMATO SOUP

I have a fondness for tomato soup and steak without grizzles. Since almost any one can broil a steak I’ll pass that up and tell you how to play cream of tomato right around the kitchen course in par.

You can take ripe tomatoes, cut them up, stew them and put them through a strainer. You can add a bit of soup stock and seasoning and all that, but the easy way is to take some of Mr. Campbell’s tomato soup and add milk instead of water—only use more soup, per person, than the can label calls for.

Don’t boil it—but when the soup is good and hot give it a bit of informal seasoning and then stir in _a lot_ of stiff whipped cream. Keep back enough of the whipped cream to put a big spoonful of it in the center of each plate.

Use the can opener at the first tee and with luck you’ll be on the dinner table in an easy three. Play out of the soup plate with a good sized spoon for a par four—and there you are!

You’ll be able to whip the cream without detailed directions. The important thing is choosing the right egg beater or cream whipper or whatever you use. The next important thing in whipping cream is stance. You’ll gradually acquire that, after you’ve spattered the front of your vest a time or two, and hooked a few long ones to the wall paper. I believe that there are some safety devices for whipping cream, but they take all the sport and excitement out of the thing.

XXV

_Joshua A. Hatfield_

EGGPLANT SAUTÉ À L’ALEXANDER

_For About 12 People_

Take two large eggplants, have them peeled and cut into large flakes of about 1¼ inches in size, season with pepper and salt, pass through flour and fry in hot fat pan to brown color; chop finely and sauté to yellow color, six French shallots and two beans of garlic, and add to the eggplant. Keep stirring on moderate fire for about three minutes, serve in vegetable dish and spray with chopped parsley.

POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER

Take six nice boiled potatoes, let them drain and pass through sieve, put in stewing pan on the fire, add four yolks of eggs, one spoonful of fresh butter, one spoonful of puff paste; one green pepper, one sweet pepper, two slices of boiled ham and parsley all finely chopped, and pepper and salt to taste.

Mix while on the fire for about five minutes, then let it cool down.

Of this dough roll sticks of ½ inch in diameter by 1½ inches long, pass through flour, beaten egg, and white bread crumbs, fry in fat pan and serve on napkin with fried parsley.

COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER

(_Served at India House with Cold Salmon_)

_For 12 People_

Incorporate into good mayonnaise, chopped chives, parsley, chervil, two tablespoonsful of French mustard and dash of Worcestershire sauce, paprika, pepper and salt; stir well.

SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN À L’ALEXANDER

Take the breast of a four-pound roasting chicken (stuff very lightly with a filling made of chicken, cream and fresh mushrooms mixed with white of egg) and have it poached in butter and chicken broth. After being done remove the suprême and have the sauce reduced to one-quarter of its volume, then incorporate first one tablespoonful of sweet butter and add six finely chopped French shallots, one-half glass of white wine, two spoonsful of brown sauce (demi-glacé), season well with pepper and salt, let it cook for about three minutes, and strain through fine sieve.

Dish suprême on a fried canape cut to shape and sauce it.

_Garniture_

Fried eggplant cut in Julienne shape
Green peppers sauté in butter
Fresh tomatoes sauté

Arrange the vegetables around the suprême on platter by keeping them each separately and serve sauce apart.

FONDU AU FROMAGE À L’ALEXANDER

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter and work with three spoonsful of flour into light brown color; add one pint of milk, let it boil for five minutes, constantly stirring; incorporate ½ pound of grated Swiss cheese or domestic Roquefort, a little salt and paprika, and bind with six yolks of eggs; let cool down.

This preparation cut and roll into sticks of ¾ inches diameter by 1½ inches long, pass through flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry crisp in hot fat pan.

Serve in napkin with fried parsley.

POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE À L’ALEXANDER

Work into a dough ½ pound of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, two whole eggs and a little salt; cut this pie-crust dough into tartlette forms, say 3 inches in diameter, place in molds and bake in moderate oven.

Melt two tablespoonsful of fresh butter, add 12 finely chopped shallots, ¼ pound of finely chopped fresh mushrooms, pepper, salt, and let it simmer, by constantly stirring, until it is thoroughly cooked, and finish with chopped parsley; mix well into this two tablespoonsful of demi-glacé. Cover the bottom of tartlettes with a layer of this preparation, place a freshly poached egg on top, cover with thick cream sauce, spray with grated Parmesan cheese, a dash of melted butter, and bake in moderate oven for about five minutes.

Dish up on napkin with crisp fried parsley.

ROMAINE SALAD À L’ALEXANDER

Decorate half a head of Romaine with sliced grapefruit, sliced orange and white grapes split and seeded, or large black cherries.

Prepare dressing as follows: Incorporate into French dressing finely chopped chives, French mustard and teaspoonful of red currant jelly; mix well and use as dressing for above salad.

ROGNONS DE VEAU À L’ALEXANDER

Take six fresh veal kidneys, remove skin and fat, and cut to very small cubes, adding ½ pound of very fine chopped fresh mushrooms, and put aside.

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter with twelve finely chopped shallots and brown to a nice golden color. Add the kidneys and mushrooms and let it simmer for about eight minutes, taking good care not to let it cook too much, preventing the kidneys from getting hard; incorporate into this appareil one pint of demi-glacé, one cup of bread crumbs (for thickening) chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and let it cool down.

Cut round canapes of bread 3 inches in diameter, and ½ inch thick, and fry in butter to crusts, and drain; then cover the crusts with this preparation to a half ball shape, pass through beaten egg, spray with a mixture of bread crumbs and grated parmesan cheese and dash of melted butter on top and bake in moderate oven for about ten minutes.

Dish up on napkin with fried parsley, and serve with demi-glacé sauce separate.

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER

Work into a dough ½ pound of flour, ¼ pound sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 whole eggs, and a little salt.

Cut the dough to oval or round tartlet forms, have them baked in moderate oven, and after they are cooled down fill out the bottom of the tartlets with custard (Crème Patissière). Cover the cream entirely with a layer of selected fresh whole strawberries, and apply, with a decorating brush, lightly diluted red currant jelly; spray the top with finely chopped pistachio nuts.

BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER

Open six large oysters, keep in deep half shell, place in roasting pan and cover with Sauce Alexander as follows:

{ two tablespoonsful of Chili sauce
{ one tablespoonful of horseradish sauce
Mix: { one tablespoonful of French mustard
{ one dash of Worcestershire Sauce
{ finely chopped chives, salt and pepper

Take good care the oysters are entirely covered by the sauce, then spray with bread crumbs, and have them baked for about eight minutes.

ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN À L’ALEXANDER

Select a choice five-pound fowl, have it boiled, cut into flakes and put aside.

Brown in saucepan ¼ pound of butter and two tablespoonsful of flour to a nice yellow color, add to this one quart of chicken broth and let it boil for a few minutes, keeping on stirring it; beat into this sauce six yolks of eggs and the juice of two lemons, working it all the time, but taking good care not to let it boil any more; pass it through a fine sieve and keep it hot in Bain-Marie.

Cut into flakes and sauté in butter ½ pound of fresh mushrooms, then take ¼ pound flaked boiled Virginia ham, one bunch of finely chopped Tarragon and mix this with the chicken flakes in the thoroughly heated sauce; season with salt, pepper and paprika to taste and serve in chafing dish; place on freshly made toast or hot buckwheat cakes.

XXVI

_Stewart Edward White_

MULLIGAN

This is a camp dish to be cooked over an open fire. I guarantee nothing on a stove. I know nothing of stoves, and have a dark suspicion of them. To make it: Place in a kettle half full of cold water either (a) fish cut in chunks, (b) a couple of dozen clams, or (c) a half dozen chunks of venison about the size of a tennis ball, depending on whether you want a Fish Mulligan, a Clam Mulligan, or a Game Mulligan. Also depending on what you have. Also a half dozen peeled potatoes and three large onions. Salt and pepper, bring slowly to a boil. Add a handful of cubes of salt pork or bacon. Simmer slowly until the potatoes disintegrate. If you have the remains of a can of corn or a little residue of cold rice or anything of like nature, drop them in. Next put in all the stale bread or hard tack the traffic will bear. Dissolve a tablespoonful of flour in a little warm water, and stir that in for thickening. Cook slowly until you can’t stand it any longer, and fly to it.

XXVII

_Oliver Herford_

FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS